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#481
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Wall and Electric
FrozenNorth wrote:
Check the actual cable it wasn't too long ago that 12 guage came with a white sheathing too. You can't always go by the colour. Thank you for your reply. I heard about that, but I've handled enough 12 gauge romex this summer to know this isn't it. I'll double check tomorrow, just to make sure. Bill |
#482
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Wall and Electric
Mike Marlow wrote:
Remember that your faceplates cover beyond the box, so you don't need to go crazy trying to fit the tape precisely around the box. I'm sure I was getting close to crazy fitting some of the tape around the boxes, but your post was nice to keep in mind. I have no regrets about filling all the screw holes in the electrical boxes with 6-32 screws before I started spackling near the (plastic) screw holes. $2 is a minuscule price to pay for the peace of mind, and I'll reclaim the screws. A Q-tip came in handy too. Bill |
#483
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Wall and Electric
"Bill" wrote in message ... Larry Jaques wrote: If you mud down an extra foot, it will still show up to everyone who looks at it via shadow lines and it will look unprofessional. Everything I said there goes. You will indubitably regret that choice, but it's your choice.shrug I'm not sure. I'll post some photos soon and we can both judge. What the room is really lacking is a cabinet saw and a drill press. : ) Pay no attention to the resident troll. I suspect he/she is about 14. Given a long enough taper, you could hide a couple dead bodies. ;-) -- Jim in NC |
#484
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Wall and Electric
On Sun, 22 Aug 2010 00:49:08 -0400, Bill wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote: If you mud down an extra foot, it will still show up to everyone who looks at it via shadow lines and it will look unprofessional. Larry, Most of the joint is 3" from the ceiling. I've taped it all, but I haven't done much tapering yet, and I think it looks pretty good. The ceiling is "brushed joint compound"/imitation stucco--whatever that treatment is called. I think someone suggested here a while back that I proceed as I have. We didn't realize, of course, that I would uncover a variety of drywall widths in the tear-off. You meant "thicknesses", right? In addition, you'll seldom get mud precisely flat. (See used/wrecked/repainted cars for the idea.) I will have considerable lighting in this area, so I doubt shadow lines will be a major issue. I Whatever you say. g can always redo whatever I find unacceptable--another wall and the ceiling still needs work. It's not like I have to make a special trip to the job site. OK. As Steve mentioned, there has been a lot of learning in this. That was and still is a very important goal too--to further develop my skills, for instance, for working on the interior of the house. I am hopeful that my results will look *great*, while they may fall somewhat short of standards someone might require for a brightly lit formal dining room finished with semi-gloss paint (Level 5?). Formal dining room with Semi? Fatal Error! Don't mud, just prime, paint, and put up 3.5" or larger crown moulding. By the way, I get to apply many of the skills I've learned working on this project to a garbage disposal that broke yesterday and needs to be replaced. As I'm not sure there is currently even enough wire to get to the new disposal or a properly located junction box, I may need to pull wire from the switch which is on an adjacent wall. If it's just a short wire, consider adding a junction box on the wall and extend from there. My point is I'm confident about the electrical part of whatever I need to do with that--which is a far better position than I would have been in only 6 months ago. That's a good feeling, isn't it? I need to try to figure out how to hook up the out-flowing pipe as the new disposal uses a different adapter than I have now...so I'm off to look for some resources now. Cheers! Isn't plumbing a joy? deep sigh -- We're all here because we're not all there. |
#485
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Wall and Electric
Larry Jaques wrote:
I need to try to figure out how to hook up the out-flowing pipe as the new disposal uses a different adapter than I have now...so I'm off to look for some resources now. Cheers! Isn't plumbing a joy?deep sigh I found an extra inch or two of romex cable behind the wall that didn't seem to be there yesterday--enough to reach. So, I how have my first "garbage disposal replacement and install" under my belt. After watching a youtube video or two on the matter last night, I didn't even need to look at the directions. I wouldn't say it was trivial, but, I didn't struggle too much, so it must not have been too hard! ; ) Bill |
#486
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Wall and Electric
On Sun, 22 Aug 2010 22:20:32 -0400, Bill wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote: I need to try to figure out how to hook up the out-flowing pipe as the new disposal uses a different adapter than I have now...so I'm off to look for some resources now. Cheers! Isn't plumbing a joy?deep sigh I found an extra inch or two of romex cable behind the wall that didn't seem to be there yesterday--enough to reach. So, I how have my first "garbage disposal replacement and install" under my belt. After watching a youtube video or two on the matter last night, I didn't even need to look at the directions. I wouldn't say it was trivial, but, I didn't struggle too much, so it must not have been too hard! ; ) Congratulations. Here, I'll give you the clap: clap, clap -- Not merely an absence of noise, Real Silence begins when a reasonable being withdraws from the noise in order to find peace and order in his inner sanctuary. -- Peter Minard |
#487
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Wall and Electric
Bill wrote:
I observed that the garbage disposal is currently on a dedicated 20 Amp circuit, but, at least back to its switch, it is wired with white romex cable (guage 14). I am not yet familiar yet with the cable between the switch and the main panel (I have a hunch that it is guage 12). I hope it's not 14 ga on a 20 amp breaker. Don't assume so just because the romex is white. The colored jackets for romex is a new thing and it used to be that all romex was white. Look at the romex before you do anything. This configuration is inappropriate, no? Technically, I think I should upgrade the cable to yellow or replace the breaker with a 15 Amp one. The new device will be about 8.2 Amps. Given these choices, I think I would lean towards replacing the breaker. -- -Mike- |
#488
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Wall and Electric
Larry Jaques wrote:
You meant "thicknesses", right? In addition, you'll seldom get mud precisely flat. (See used/wrecked/repainted cars for the idea.) Well - not really. The trick to getting it nice and flat is a long board. Use any length board that is appropriate - it can be a couple of feet long, and attach sanding sheets to it. That way you can span areas easily and get dead flat results. -- -Mike- |
#489
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Wall and Electric
On 8/22/2010 3:12 AM, Bill wrote:
FrozenNorth wrote: Check the actual cable it wasn't too long ago that 12 guage came with a white sheathing too. You can't always go by the colour. Thank you for your reply. I heard about that, but I've handled enough 12 gauge romex this summer to know this isn't it. I'll double check tomorrow, just to make sure. NMC (of which "Romex" is just one brand) has gone through continuous evolution since 1922, when Rome Cable introduced it. The stuff sold today is somewhat different from that sold 20 years ago and it's different from what was sold 20 years before that and on back to the original rubber with cloth over the rubber with a varnished fabric outer sheath. The color code is a voluntary standard that the NEMA implemented about 10 years back--it's useful in installing new work and it's pretty but it's not something you should count on. So, if you want to know if a particular cable is 12/2, the only reliable method is to read the code-required markings embossed on the cable sheath. Be gentle with it though, if it's 1922 vintage it likely won't take much handling without starting to crumble. |
#490
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Wall and Electric
Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote: I observed that the garbage disposal is currently on a dedicated 20 Amp circuit, but, at least back to its switch, it is wired with white romex cable (guage 14). I am not yet familiar yet with the cable between the switch and the main panel (I have a hunch that it is guage 12). I hope it's not 14 ga on a 20 amp breaker. Don't assume so just because the romex is white. The colored jackets for romex is a new thing and it used to be that all romex was white. Look at the romex before you do anything. Thanks, I'll be double-checking because, according to the directions, I forgot to put in a (romex cable) connector. Actually, I think my wire may in fact be white 12 gauge romex. After working with 10 gauge it looked small to me. The person who installed that last garbage disposal apparently didn't read their directions either--it's not like they include a connector in the package! For $169.99, they could include a darn 35 cent connector... For those not in the know, the connector will prevent damage where the cable enters the device and will prevent tugging on the wire-connectors. I'll probably redo it this weekend. |
#491
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Wall and Electric
Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote: Bill wrote: I observed that the garbage disposal is currently on a dedicated 20 Amp circuit, but, at least back to its switch, it is wired with white romex cable (guage 14). I am not yet familiar yet with the cable between the switch and the main panel (I have a hunch that it is guage 12). I hope it's not 14 ga on a 20 amp breaker. Don't assume so just because the romex is white. The colored jackets for romex is a new thing and it used to be that all romex was white. Look at the romex before you do anything. Another chance to use my "trusty" Harbor Freight Centrum digital caliper: The white romex under my sink is about .37" wide (including the insulation). My new yellow 12-2 romex is about .425" I don't have any 14-2 romex to compare it to and can't seem to locate any print on the white romex I can read under the sink (even with a flashlight). How wide is 14-2 typically (I couldn't find anything on the web)? My limited experience and intuition is telling me I have 14-2 under my sink, but I hope it's not. There is only one duplex outlet(GFCI)on the 20 Amp circuit besides the garbage disposal. It wouldn't be a big deal to switch out the breaker for one rated at 15 Amps if necessary. Bill |
#492
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Wall and Electric
On 8/25/10 1:17 AM, Bill wrote:
Bill wrote: Mike Marlow wrote: Bill wrote: I observed that the garbage disposal is currently on a dedicated 20 Amp circuit, but, at least back to its switch, it is wired with white romex cable (guage 14). I am not yet familiar yet with the cable between the switch and the main panel (I have a hunch that it is guage 12). I hope it's not 14 ga on a 20 amp breaker. Don't assume so just because the romex is white. The colored jackets for romex is a new thing and it used to be that all romex was white. Look at the romex before you do anything. Another chance to use my "trusty" Harbor Freight Centrum digital caliper: The white romex under my sink is about .37" wide (including the insulation). My new yellow 12-2 romex is about .425" I don't have any 14-2 romex to compare it to and can't seem to locate any print on the white romex I can read under the sink (even with a flashlight). How wide is 14-2 typically (I couldn't find anything on the web)? My limited experience and intuition is telling me I have 14-2 under my sink, but I hope it's not. There is only one duplex outlet(GFCI)on the 20 Amp circuit besides the garbage disposal. It wouldn't be a big deal to switch out the breaker for one rated at 15 Amps if necessary. Open an outlet in your bedroom, odds are it is 14 guage. -- Froz... The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance. |
#493
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Wall and Electric
On 8/25/10 1:23 AM, FrozenNorth wrote:
On 8/25/10 1:17 AM, Bill wrote: Bill wrote: Mike Marlow wrote: Bill wrote: I observed that the garbage disposal is currently on a dedicated 20 Amp circuit, but, at least back to its switch, it is wired with white romex cable (guage 14). I am not yet familiar yet with the cable between the switch and the main panel (I have a hunch that it is guage 12). I hope it's not 14 ga on a 20 amp breaker. Don't assume so just because the romex is white. The colored jackets for romex is a new thing and it used to be that all romex was white. Look at the romex before you do anything. Another chance to use my "trusty" Harbor Freight Centrum digital caliper: The white romex under my sink is about .37" wide (including the insulation). My new yellow 12-2 romex is about .425" I don't have any 14-2 romex to compare it to and can't seem to locate any print on the white romex I can read under the sink (even with a flashlight). How wide is 14-2 typically (I couldn't find anything on the web)? My limited experience and intuition is telling me I have 14-2 under my sink, but I hope it's not. There is only one duplex outlet(GFCI)on the 20 Amp circuit besides the garbage disposal. It wouldn't be a big deal to switch out the breaker for one rated at 15 Amps if necessary. Open an outlet in your bedroom, odds are it is 14 guage. Damn, measure the conductor, not all the insulation, missed that. -- Froz... The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance. |
#494
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Wall and Electric
FrozenNorth wrote:
On 8/25/10 1:17 AM, Bill wrote: Bill wrote: Mike Marlow wrote: Bill wrote: I observed that the garbage disposal is currently on a dedicated 20 Amp circuit, but, at least back to its switch, it is wired with white romex cable (guage 14). I am not yet familiar yet with the cable between the switch and the main panel (I have a hunch that it is guage 12). I hope it's not 14 ga on a 20 amp breaker. Don't assume so just because the romex is white. The colored jackets for romex is a new thing and it used to be that all romex was white. Look at the romex before you do anything. Another chance to use my "trusty" Harbor Freight Centrum digital caliper: The white romex under my sink is about .37" wide (including the insulation). My new yellow 12-2 romex is about .425" I don't have any 14-2 romex to compare it to and can't seem to locate any print on the white romex I can read under the sink (even with a flashlight). How wide is 14-2 typically (I couldn't find anything on the web)? My limited experience and intuition is telling me I have 14-2 under my sink, but I hope it's not. There is only one duplex outlet(GFCI)on the 20 Amp circuit besides the garbage disposal. It wouldn't be a big deal to switch out the breaker for one rated at 15 Amps if necessary. Open an outlet in your bedroom, odds are it is 14 guage. I think almost my whole house is wired with 12-2. |
#495
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Wall and Electric
FrozenNorth wrote:
On 8/25/10 1:17 AM, Bill wrote: Bill wrote: Mike Marlow wrote: Bill wrote: I observed that the garbage disposal is currently on a dedicated 20 Amp circuit, but, at least back to its switch, it is wired with white romex cable (guage 14). I am not yet familiar yet with the cable between the switch and the main panel (I have a hunch that it is guage 12). I hope it's not 14 ga on a 20 amp breaker. Don't assume so just because the romex is white. The colored jackets for romex is a new thing and it used to be that all romex was white. Look at the romex before you do anything. Another chance to use my "trusty" Harbor Freight Centrum digital caliper: The white romex under my sink is about .37" wide (including the insulation). My new yellow 12-2 romex is about .425" I don't have any 14-2 romex to compare it to and can't seem to locate any print on the white romex I can read under the sink (even with a flashlight). How wide is 14-2 typically (I couldn't find anything on the web)? My limited experience and intuition is telling me I have 14-2 under my sink, but I hope it's not. There is only one duplex outlet(GFCI)on the 20 Amp circuit besides the garbage disposal. It wouldn't be a big deal to switch out the breaker for one rated at 15 Amps if necessary. Open an outlet in your bedroom, odds are it is 14 guage. I think almost my whole house is wired with 12-2. |
#496
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Wall and Electric
Bill wrote:
FrozenNorth wrote: On 8/25/10 1:17 AM, Bill wrote: Bill wrote: Mike Marlow wrote: Bill wrote: I observed that the garbage disposal is currently on a dedicated 20 Amp circuit, but, at least back to its switch, it is wired with white romex cable (guage 14). I am not yet familiar yet with the cable between the switch and the main panel (I have a hunch that it is guage 12). I hope it's not 14 ga on a 20 amp breaker. Don't assume so just because the romex is white. The colored jackets for romex is a new thing and it used to be that all romex was white. Look at the romex before you do anything. Another chance to use my "trusty" Harbor Freight Centrum digital caliper: The white romex under my sink is about .37" wide (including the insulation). My new yellow 12-2 romex is about .425" I don't have any 14-2 romex to compare it to and can't seem to locate any print on the white romex I can read under the sink (even with a flashlight). How wide is 14-2 typically (I couldn't find anything on the web)? My limited experience and intuition is telling me I have 14-2 under my sink, but I hope it's not. There is only one duplex outlet(GFCI)on the 20 Amp circuit besides the garbage disposal. It wouldn't be a big deal to switch out the breaker for one rated at 15 Amps if necessary. Open an outlet in your bedroom, odds are it is 14 guage. I think almost my whole house is wired with 12-2. I learned that 12 gauge wire is supposed to be .0808" and that 14 guage wire is supposed to be .0641". I have some 12 gauge wire to compare to, and I think I have 14 guage under the sink. I'll check when I remove the wire from the device (which ain't as easy as it's supposed to be). Bill Bill |
#497
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Wall and Electric
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#498
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Wall and Electric
Bill wrote:
Another chance to use my "trusty" Harbor Freight Centrum digital caliper: The white romex under my sink is about .37" wide (including the insulation). My new yellow 12-2 romex is about .425" Don't use your trusty caliper. Read the cable. The insulation used on cable has changed a lot over the years and measuring it is of no value at all. I don't have any 14-2 romex to compare it to and can't seem to locate any print on the white romex I can read under the sink (even with a flashlight). How wide is 14-2 typically (I couldn't find anything on the web)? My limited experience and intuition is telling me I have 14-2 under my sink, but I hope it's not. Keep looking. It will be embossed on the sheath, all along its length. -- -Mike- |
#499
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Wall and Electric
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#500
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Wall and Electric
Who would run aluminum to a bathroom though?
"Mike Marlow" wrote in message ... Cannot understand why you would say that. Odds are it is 12 ga. FrozenNorth wrote: Open an outlet in your bedroom, odds are it is 14 guage. |
#501
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Wall and Electric
Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote: Thanks, I'll be double-checking because, according to the directions, I forgot to put in a (romex cable) connector. How does one "forget" to install a box connector? In my case, one didn't come in the carton and the previously unit didn't have one? It didn't show up in the online videos I watched either. I'll make it right... I may have to stretch the wire (joke) or put in a junction box. Doug Miller noticed 2 round boxes in my garage ceiling corresponding to fluorescent lights where someone threaded the romex around the side of the cover rather than put in a box connector. I'll make that right too. These being quite out of reach, I'll do the one above first. Thank you for your interest in helping me to get things right! Regards, Bill |
#502
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Wall and Electric
Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote: Bill wrote: Thanks, I'll be double-checking because, according to the directions, I forgot to put in a (romex cable) connector. How does one "forget" to install a box connector? In my case, one didn't come in the carton and the previously unit didn't have one? It didn't show up in the online videos I watched either. I'll make it right... I may have to stretch the wire (joke) or put in a junction box. Were the online videos showing a plastic box? That would explain why there was no box connector - none required. If they showed a metal box with no box connector then those videos are absolutely useless. What about you book - it surely must have told you to use a box connector with a metal box - again - if that's what you have at hand. -- -Mike- |
#503
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Wall and Electric
Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote: Mike Marlow wrote: Bill wrote: Thanks, I'll be double-checking because, according to the directions, I forgot to put in a (romex cable) connector. How does one "forget" to install a box connector? In my case, one didn't come in the carton and the previously unit didn't have one? It didn't show up in the online videos I watched either. I'll make it right... I may have to stretch the wire (joke) or put in a junction box. Were the online videos showing a plastic box? That would explain why there was no box connector - none required. If they showed a metal box with no box connector then those videos are absolutely useless. What about you book - it surely must have told you to use a box connector with a metal box - again - if that's what you have at hand. Remember, we were talking about a garbage disposal. I carefully wired up the new one like the old one, not thinking that it might be wrong. Then I realized it might not be right, looked at the directions, and here we are... I'll try to get to it this weekend. Our garbage disposal is not even used once per day, it should be okay until then. Bill |
#504
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Wall and Electric
Bill wrote:
Remember, we were talking about a garbage disposal. I carefully wired up the new one like the old one, not thinking that it might be wrong. Then I realized it might not be right, looked at the directions, and here we are... I'll try to get to it this weekend. Our garbage disposal is not even used once per day, it should be okay until then. Good point - thanks for the correction on that Bill. So - it's just a lesson to stick in your arsenal of information - every electrical connection needs some sort of clamp for strain relief. From now on it's almost a sure bet you will notice such things in existing wiring and it's not likely you'll make this same mistake again. -- -Mike- |
#505
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Wall and Electric
Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote: Remember, we were talking about a garbage disposal. I carefully wired up the new one like the old one, not thinking that it might be wrong. Then I realized it might not be right, looked at the directions, and here we are... I'll try to get to it this weekend. Our garbage disposal is not even used once per day, it should be okay until then. Good point - thanks for the correction on that Bill. So - it's just a lesson to stick in your arsenal of information - every electrical connection needs some sort of clamp for strain relief. From now on it's almost a sure bet you will notice such things in existing wiring and it's not likely you'll make this same mistake again. Yep. Thanks! Bill |
#506
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Wall and Electric
"Bill" wrote There is only one duplex outlet(GFCI)on the 20 Amp circuit besides the garbage disposal. It wouldn't be a big deal to switch out the breaker for one rated at 15 Amps if necessary. I would do that anyway. The GFCI is probably only rated at 15 amps, and so probably the disposal. You don't need a 20 amp, and will better protect the wire and the disposal. -- Jim in NC |
#507
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Wall and Electric
"Mike Marlow" wrote Cannot understand why you would say that. Odds are it is 12 ga. Why? Code only calls for 15 amp, 14 ga. in bedrooms. If someone used 12, they were just being over-zealous. -- Jim in NC |
#508
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Wall and Electric
"Mike Marlow" wrote Good point - thanks for the correction on that Bill. So - it's just a lesson to stick in your arsenal of information - every electrical connection needs some sort of clamp for strain relief. From now on it's almost a sure bet you will notice such things in existing wiring and it's not likely you'll make this same mistake again. Also, he should realize that a staple holding the romex to the stud is required within 6 inches of the box - for strain relief. -- Jim in NC |
#509
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Wall and Electric
On Fri, 27 Aug 2010 22:39:09 -0400, "Morgans"
wrote: "Bill" wrote There is only one duplex outlet(GFCI)on the 20 Amp circuit besides the garbage disposal. It wouldn't be a big deal to switch out the breaker for one rated at 15 Amps if necessary. I would do that anyway. The GFCI is probably only rated at 15 amps, and so probably the disposal. You don't need a 20 amp, and will better protect the wire and the disposal. Like all outlets, even those with contacts rated for 15A, GFCIs are rated for 20A feed-through so can be put on 20A circuits without problems. |
#511
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Wall and Electric - Opps
"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
... Opps, sticky finger time. Make that $630, not $63 price difference for 3,000 ft of wire. Still not a big deal at today's building prices. Our tax dollars are being blown at less than that per pop. $630 here, $630 there, pretty soon you're talking real money. The only way a contractor would spend the $630 if it produced an equivalent savings elsewhere or was called for in the contract. |
#512
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Wall and Electric
"Morgans" wrote in message ... "Mike Marlow" wrote Cannot understand why you would say that. Odds are it is 12 ga. Why? Code only calls for 15 amp, 14 ga. in bedrooms. If someone used 12, they were just being over-zealous. -- Jim in NC I never use #14 on house wiring, so I am over-zealous. My reason is that it seems that down the road people change wiring and put larger loads on some things without caring about what happens. Some wannabee jackleg or some homeowner will go into the attic and see a hot wire and say, "ah! this one is hot and good, I'll just use it". I have seen lampcords spliced and taped to romex and crap like that. Not new to anyone here I am sure. Or maybe I just don't like #14 because it is so flimsy feeling. I do know that some electricians don't use #14 also. Technically, I am wrong. |
#513
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Wall and Electric
Standardization. So what is standard aabout using heavier wire than is called for? 15 amp and 14 ga. is what is standard. 20 amp feeds are only required in a few areas of a house. They are what is not standard. Even in small quanties of 100 ft put ups, 14-2/W/ Ground is about $29 while 12-2/W/Ground is about $50 or a difference of $21/100 ft. No self respecting contractor is going to buy wire in less than at least 2,000-3,000 ft at a time, so that price difference will drop. Even if it doesn't, 3,000 ft of wire in a building only adds $63. Price is only one part of the equation. Pulling the heavier wire and working with it inside of boxes is a definite pain in the butt. Go for it, if you want, but don't claim it is for standardization. Every licensed electrician out there will argue with that. -- Jim in NC |
#514
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Wall and Electric - Opps
"Lew Hodgett" wrote Add in the reduction of job site screw ups from installing the wrong wire on the wrong run and the case for "one size fits all" starts looking better and better. If an electrician an his helpers can't keep running the correct wire straight, they should look into a new career. Give it up. Your argument is lame. -- Jim in NC |
#515
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Wall and Electric
"woodstuff" wrote in message ... "Morgans" wrote in message ... "Mike Marlow" wrote Cannot understand why you would say that. Odds are it is 12 ga. Why? Code only calls for 15 amp, 14 ga. in bedrooms. If someone used 12, they were just being over-zealous. -- Jim in NC I never use #14 on house wiring, so I am over-zealous. My reason is that it seems that down the road people change wiring and put larger loads on some things without caring about what happens. Some wannabee jackleg or some homeowner will go into the attic and see a hot wire and say, "ah! this one is hot and good, I'll just use it". I have seen lampcords spliced and taped to romex and crap like that. Not new to anyone here I am sure. Or maybe I just don't like #14 because it is so flimsy feeling. I do know that some electricians don't use #14 also. Technically, I am wrong. Unless the breaker is changed to a higher amperage, adding onto the circuit will cause no more danger. It at most will be inconvenient with having to reset a tripped breaker. I sure don't know any licensed electricians that don't like 14 ga. wire. Not one. As a contractor, I have known plenty. -- Jim in NC |
#516
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Wall and Electric
wrote Like all outlets, even those with contacts rated for 15A, GFCIs are rated for 20A feed-through so can be put on 20A circuits without problems. Look again. Not all outlets are rated for 20 amps. -- Jim in NC |
#517
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Wall and Electric
In article , "Morgans" wrote:
"Mike Marlow" wrote Good point - thanks for the correction on that Bill. So - it's just a lesson to stick in your arsenal of information - every electrical connection needs some sort of clamp for strain relief. From now on it's almost a sure bet you will notice such things in existing wiring and it's not likely you'll make this same mistake again. Also, he should realize that a staple holding the romex to the stud is required within 6 inches of the box - for strain relief. No, it's not. |
#518
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Wall and Electric
Morgans wrote:
"Bill" wrote There is only one duplex outlet(GFCI)on the 20 Amp circuit besides the garbage disposal. It wouldn't be a big deal to switch out the breaker for one rated at 15 Amps if necessary. I would do that anyway. The GFCI is probably only rated at 15 amps, and so probably the disposal. You don't need a 20 amp, and will better protect the wire and the disposal. That's false logic to a point. Sure, putting a smaller breaker on any piece of wire will protect it more than the rated breaker would, but why would anyone do that? That's like saying that since I only plug floor lamps into these outlets, and cell phone chargers into these outs, I'll install 5 Amp breakers on those circuits. Sorta limits the use of those outlets. -- -Mike- |
#519
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Wall and Electric
On 8/28/2010 7:43 AM, Morgans wrote:
Standardization. So what is standard about using heavier wire than is called for? 15 amp and 14 ga. is what is standard. 20 amp feeds are only required in a few areas of a house. They are what is not standard. Not necessarily, and certainly not "standard" where I build ... 12ga is the minimum allowed in residential construction around these parts and you rarely see a 15A branch circuit, even for lighting in the most inexpensively built home. AAMOF, I can't recall the last time I saw a 15A c'bkr in a 200A service panel. So no, 14ga/15A is pretty much a thing of the past as "standard" IME. -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 4/15/2010 KarlC@ (the obvious) |
#520
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Shop Wall and Electric
On 8/27/2010 9:45 PM, Morgans wrote:
"Mike wrote Good point - thanks for the correction on that Bill. So - it's just a lesson to stick in your arsenal of information - every electrical connection needs some sort of clamp for strain relief. From now on it's almost a sure bet you will notice such things in existing wiring and it's not likely you'll make this same mistake again. Also, he should realize that a staple holding the romex to the stud is required within 6 inches of the box - for strain relief. Check your tape measure ... your distance is wrong. -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 4/15/2010 KarlC@ (the obvious) |
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