Jim wrote:
I have a 4800 watt 30 amp construction heater. Those little ones with a circular
element and a fan.

Installed a ceiling version of this (Dayton Electric heater) last
winter. Set to keep the shop ~ 55 degrees, it comes up to 70 or so very
quickly. Impact on electric bill was neglible.

My shop is also well insulated and is ~ 24'x13'


I allow have a residential 2200 watt electric base board heater on a wall
thermostat.

I considered this but passed due to the inevitable build up of saw dust
on the element and I didn't want to go the extra bux for the oil-filled
or antifreeze filled that are more like radiators since I would still
have the dust buildup problem

My shop is 14x18 and well insulated but we get plenty of below zero days.
I'm wondering if either of these two heaters is cheaper to operate than the
other.

I was once told by a relative who worked for the power company that with
total electric homes - such as ours - you can figure the heat is pretty
much 100% efficient, i.e. 150 watts of a lightbulb is going to give you
about the same amount of heat as 150 of baseboard radiant heat.

Ergo, to maintain the same level of heat, your baseboard unit at 2200w
is going to have to be on a little more than twice as long as the 4800w
heater.

I'm sure that there will be differences between the two due to placement
and the fan but, again, nothing to really worry about.

If the temperature is outside and you have a window, you could install
one of those heatpump/AC units. It would cost you less than electric
for temps 30 degrees and above, plus it can cool the place during the
summer. You could always use your electric strip heat as a backup for
real cold days.

Jeff

"Unquestionably Confused" wrote in message
.. .
Ergo, to maintain the same level of heat, your baseboard unit at 2200w is
going to have to be on a little more than twice as long as the 4800w
heater.

I'm sure that there will be differences between the two due to placement
and the fan but, again, nothing to really worry about.


I don't know that he's going to _maintain_ or warm as required.

Big difference between passive and active dispersal of warm air. Not the
least of which is that baseboard heaters warm the sheetrock on the walls
while the other, located closer to the action in the middle of the shop,
warms the air that makes you feel good.

on 10/21/2005 2:40 PM George said the following:
"Unquestionably Confused" wrote in message
.. .

Ergo, to maintain the same level of heat, your baseboard unit at 2200w is
going to have to be on a little more than twice as long as the 4800w
heater.

I'm sure that there will be differences between the two due to placement
and the fan but, again, nothing to really worry about.



I don't know that he's going to _maintain_ or warm as required.

Big difference between passive and active dispersal of warm air. Not the
least of which is that baseboard heaters warm the sheetrock on the walls
while the other, located closer to the action in the middle of the shop,
warms the air that makes you feel good.


Good point and one that I completely ignored. Most any of the sellers
of convection baseboard or other shop heaters have on-line guides
showing the recommended wattage/btu required.

IIRC there wasn't all that much difference in the recommended wattage
for my space (slightly larger than his) between the ceiling mounted fan
unit and the convection baseboard

The 4800 watter will definitely heat that space unless he's up north of
Bemidji perhaps. I've got 5000 watts with my Dayton in the NW Chicago
burbs and it works like a charm.

Please don tell em heat pump. He did say - 0 degree days. Heat pump only
good to the balance point of maybe 34-35 degree
after that strip heaters come on to help the heat load. Then you have to
worry about the reversing valve, Once it goes TU you have to call me or
someone like me to fix. It will be more than $200 to replace a reversing
valve. We sold them and service them in seattle and for last 10 did not
sell another. Very costly to maintain . Yup some will work for years but
not many of them. Also the air discharge at best is only about 105-107
degree. Not a very warm heat. And if it is below 0 and you come into the
shop you want heat. Hell you could fart and it would be warmer than the
heat pump. If you want to have a happy customer sell him a
window shaker with some strip heater in it. At least when it breaks down
it can be fixed in a hour or so. ( heater side)

On Fri, 21 Oct 2005 22:00:09 -0400, (O D) wrote:

Please don tell em heat pump. He did say - 0 degree days. Heat pump only
good to the balance point of maybe 34-35 degree
after that strip heaters come on to help the heat load. Then you have to
worry about the reversing valve, Once it goes TU you have to call me or
someone like me to fix. It will be more than $200 to replace a reversing
valve. We sold them and service them in seattle and for last 10 did not
sell another. Very costly to maintain . Yup some will work for years but
not many of them. Also the air discharge at best is only about 105-107
degree. Not a very warm heat. And if it is below 0 and you come into the
shop you want heat. Hell you could fart and it would be warmer than the
heat pump. If you want to have a happy customer sell him a
window shaker with some strip heater in it. At least when it breaks down
it can be fixed in a hour or so. ( heater side)

Second the comment regarding heat from the heat pump. Our house in
Dallas had one; coldest house I ever lived in, you never really felt
*warm*. Putting one's hand to the duct, it always felt like a cool breeze
-- not the kind of thing you want when it's cold outside. When the strip
heaters kicked in, the electric bill went through the roof.




+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough

+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

Running electric heat in the 30-50 range will cost you an extra $200 a
winter in electric bills anyway. Heat pumps are good for certain
applications. I use them to heat my log home, but I have propane for
when it gets below 30 degrees. When I referred to the strip heat, I
didn't mean the window unit but the other heat crankers that were being
referred to. Just because something is 100% effecient doesn't mean its
the most cost effective (compare water heaters between electric and
gas). If he's in Michigan or Minnesota, the window unit wouldn't make
sense, but some areas it would have a dual purpose if the place needs
cooling during the summer. If electricity costs aren't a concern, go
with the electric blast furnaces that are being referred to. If energy
costs are a concern, its a reasonable consideration.

The electric bill would go through the roof anyway with the other
electric heaters that are being referred to.

Thanks.
Jeff

In retrospect, I don't know how much more an all electric (non-HP)
heater would run over a winter, especially if its well insulated. I
just know its pricey. I had to run electric heaters in Huntsville when
it got too cold for a HP, even after supplementing with kerosene
heaters.

Jeff

Mark & Juanita wrote in
:

Dallas...
the strip heaters kicked in, the electric bill went through the roof.

Ditto. Never "warmed" up to the idea of a big hair-dryer up in the attic.
Nor having warm air come at you via ceiling registers.