Bill wrote:

Having put up most of my drywall, I have left a few gaps that are too
big (for instance, next to my plastic electrical boxes). At least one of
these gaps is at least 3/8" wide (and 4" long). My current plan is to
"glue in" a small block of drywall using my heavier joint compound, and
then build that up--allowing it to dry in between layers.

Is this approach likely to be successful (w/tape?)?

Thank you for your thoughts.

Bill

for a 3/8" gap I'd just use some "Durabond 90" with tape to fill the
area and forget about the small blocks of drywall.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

In article , Nova wrote:
Bill wrote:

Having put up most of my drywall, I have left a few gaps that are too
big (for instance, next to my plastic electrical boxes). At least one of
these gaps is at least 3/8" wide (and 4" long). My current plan is to
"glue in" a small block of drywall using my heavier joint compound, and
then build that up--allowing it to dry in between layers.

Is this approach likely to be successful (w/tape?)?

Thank you for your thoughts.

Bill

for a 3/8" gap I'd just use some "Durabond 90" with tape to fill the
area and forget about the small blocks of drywall.

I'll second that -- sort of. I'd certainly use Durabond 90, but I wouldn't
bother with tape on a gap that narrow.

"Nova" wrote

for a 3/8" gap I'd just use some "Durabond 90" with tape to fill the area
and forget about the small blocks of drywall.

I second that.

Morgans wrote:
wrote

for a 3/8" gap I'd just use some "Durabond 90" with tape to fill the area
and forget about the small blocks of drywall.

I second that.



Thanks folks!

Bill

On Tue, 10 Aug 2010 01:50:27 -0400, Bill wrote:

Having put up most of my drywall, I have left a few gaps that are too
big (for instance, next to my plastic electrical boxes). At least one of
these gaps is at least 3/8" wide (and 4" long). My current plan is to
"glue in" a small block of drywall using my heavier joint compound, and
then build that up--allowing it to dry in between layers.

Is this approach likely to be successful (w/tape?)?

Thank you for your thoughts.

The dry 90 minute compound, 3/8 caulking backer and glass mesh tape.
That is what I would do, hope that helps.

Mark

Markem wrote:
On Tue, 10 Aug 2010 01:50:27 -0400, wrote:

Having put up most of my drywall, I have left a few gaps that are too
big (for instance, next to my plastic electrical boxes). At least one of
these gaps is at least 3/8" wide (and 4" long). My current plan is to
"glue in" a small block of drywall using my heavier joint compound, and
then build that up--allowing it to dry in between layers.

Is this approach likely to be successful (w/tape?)?

Thank you for your thoughts.



The dry 90 minute compound, 3/8 caulking backer and glass mesh tape.
That is what I would do, hope that helps.

Mark

I am obviously not a professional. I'm sorry, I can only guess what you
mean by "3/8 caulking backer". Maybe you could you break it down into
steps?

Thanks,
Bill

"Markem" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 10 Aug 2010 01:50:27 -0400, Bill wrote:

Having put up most of my drywall, I have left a few gaps that are too
big (for instance, next to my plastic electrical boxes). At least one of
these gaps is at least 3/8" wide (and 4" long). My current plan is to
"glue in" a small block of drywall using my heavier joint compound, and
then build that up--allowing it to dry in between layers.

Is this approach likely to be successful (w/tape?)?

Thank you for your thoughts.

The dry 90 minute compound, 3/8 caulking backer and glass mesh tape.
That is what I would do, hope that helps.

Nobody has said how to put the final finish on it. For the O.P.:

If you go with 90 minute stuff, you can put it on without tape, but build it
up thick enough to taper out over the original sheet rock, or it will
shurely crack out. If you don't use tape or fiberglass, it may crack,
anyway. If your technique on the 90 min. stuff, you may need to use regular
joint compound to put a final sandable finish over it. Note, if you didn't
know, the 90 min. stuff is nearly impossible to sand, at all, so get it
right, or another technique is to let it get almost completly dry, and use
the drywall blade laying down like a chisel to take off the high spots. If
you want to go that route, put extra on, but don't fall asleep at the wheel.
That stuff kicks off fast, and goes from unworkable soft to unworkable hard,
pretty quickly.

You can use 90 minute stuff with paper or fiberglass tape over the goo over
the hole. That is my personal preference, using paper tape with regular
compound over the top. It is more work, but no risk of cracking later.
Worth it to me. It is easier to get it smooth and not risk getting the
texture of the fiberglass showing though the top with using the paper tape.

If you are good and good and fast, you can use 90 minute stuff to plug the
hole, put on a thin layer over that to embed a paper tape big enough to
cover, then put a layer of 90 min. over the paper with some extra thickness
to take off to get a smooth final finish. Just do not leave extra on while
smoothing to the final finish, because you will not be happy with yourself
as you are trying to sand that extra 90 minute stuff back off.

Hope that helps, and is not so basic as to be insulting. It is the teacher
in me trying to be complete and not knowing your skill levels.
--
Jim in NC

In article , "Morgans" wrote:

"Markem" wrote in message
.. .
If you go with 90 minute stuff, you can put it on without tape, but build it
up thick enough to taper out over the original sheet rock, or it will
shurely crack out. If you don't use tape or fiberglass, it may crack,
anyway. If your technique on the 90 min. stuff, you may need to use regular
joint compound to put a final sandable finish over it. Note, if you didn't
know, the 90 min. stuff is nearly impossible to sand, at all,

Depends on what you use. This stuff
http://www.lowes.
com/pd_12157-325-384211_4294858286_4294937087?productId=3010034
(Sheetrock EasySand 90) sands almost as easily as the premixed joint
compounds.

I purchased a 25# bag of Durabond 90 today.

1. Can I mix it in a plastic bucket (package says it gets "very hot")?
2. If I apply it with tape, would I generally add more tape if I add
setting compound later?

I have various joints to fill so any tips I pick up will be helpful.
I read most of Stanley's book on drywall, but it assumes "textbook
conditions" (i.e. new walls and ceiling). I hope to finish
putting up all my drywall tonight or tomorrow, so I still have time to
learn something!

Aside from cleaning up around a couple of my electrical boxes, my "most
troubling" joint will probably be the one about 3 inches from the
ceiling, running the length of the walls, where my old and new drywall meet.

BTW, There are lots of warnings on the package of Durabond 90 about the
risks of the "dust" from sanding it. I have just a simple drywall
sanding pole. I will wear a dust mask when I sand, but should I
"hesitate" to sand Durabond under these conditions? I naturally intend
to apply the Durabond sparingly with the idea that I won't need to sand
it very much.

It's a good thing I don't have to pay myself by the hour--and I'd charge
myself double for the 90+ degree days!

Bill

Morgans wrote:

Hope that helps, and is not so basic as to be insulting. It is the teacher
in me trying to be complete and not knowing your skill levels.

Thank you, your post was Very helpful. I worked with drywall compound
for 3 or 4 days at my grandfather's house 30 years ago. I feel that
experience really does give me a leg-up from being a complete-newbe, but
as for my skill level, I would have to rate my skill level as
"worriedly, overconfident".

BTW, in a youtube drywall video, I noticed someone using XIM "Peel Bond"
in places where the cardboard was showing (to prevent bubbling, I
think). Is this S.O.P.?

Bill

Doug Miller wrote:
In , wrote:

wrote in message
...
If you go with 90 minute stuff, you can put it on without tape, but build it
up thick enough to taper out over the original sheet rock, or it will
shurely crack out. If you don't use tape or fiberglass, it may crack,
anyway. If your technique on the 90 min. stuff, you may need to use regular
joint compound to put a final sandable finish over it. Note, if you didn't
know, the 90 min. stuff is nearly impossible to sand, at all,

Depends on what you use. This stuff
http://www.lowes.
com/pd_12157-325-384211_4294858286_4294937087?productId=3010034
(Sheetrock EasySand 90) sands almost as easily as the premixed joint
compounds.

But you surely give up strength and reduced shrinkage--which appear to
be the hallmark of Durabond 90, the joint compound under discussion.

Bill

"Doug Miller" wrote

Depends on what you use. This stuff
http://www.lowes.
com/pd_12157-325-384211_4294858286_4294937087?productId=3010034
(Sheetrock EasySand 90) sands almost as easily as the premixed joint
compounds.

Had not tried that product. Next time I have the need, I'll give it a go.

Thanks.
--
Jim in NC

"Bill" wroteI purchased a 25# bag of Durabond 90 today.

1. Can I mix it in a plastic bucket (package says it gets "very hot")?

Yes. It gets warm, but nowhere near that hot. Kinda like quick epoxy
kicking off.

2. If I apply it with tape, would I generally add more tape if I add
setting compound later?

No. If you cover it with regular joint compound, scrape all off to get it
flush with the surface, then let it set and tape and finish it like a normal
new joint.

The dust warning is just to keep you from inhaling it and getting your lungs
messed up like miner's lung. Breathing rock dust is generally considered to
be a "bad thing" (TM) g
--
Jim in NC

Bill wrote:
Markem wrote:
On Tue, 10 Aug 2010 01:50:27 -0400, wrote:

Having put up most of my drywall, I have left a few gaps that are
too big (for instance, next to my plastic electrical boxes). At
least one of these gaps is at least 3/8" wide (and 4" long). My
current plan is to "glue in" a small block of drywall using my
heavier joint compound, and then build that up--allowing it to dry
in between layers. Is this approach likely to be successful (w/tape?)?

Thank you for your thoughts.



The dry 90 minute compound, 3/8 caulking backer and glass mesh tape.
That is what I would do, hope that helps.

Mark

I am obviously not a professional. I'm sorry, I can only guess what
you mean by "3/8 caulking backer". Maybe you could you break it down
into steps?


Tried and true Bill - just mud in a tape surround with the old basic paper
tape. Let it dry overnight. You will find it to be tight as a drum head in
the morning. Don't worry about the 3/8 gap - that's not a huge gap.
Proceed from there to simply taper the new tape into the surrounding
sheetrock, as you would any other joint. It will work and it will hold up
forever. Trust me...

--

-Mike-

"Bill" wrote

BTW, in a youtube drywall video, I noticed someone using XIM "Peel Bond"
in places where the cardboard was showing (to prevent bubbling, I think).
Is this S.O.P.?

Totally unecessary, for your case, I would think. The bare paper will
provide the maximum grip for topcoating with either plain joint compound or
90 minute.

If you or someone has sanded the paper to the point that it has the
"fuzzies", make sure your topcoat covers all of that to the point that it
will still be covered after sanding. If you do get fuzzies from over
sanding, you may have to prime, and lightly sand, or apply more compound
before painting. The fuzzies can show though paint and be a PITA,
sometimes.

The whole key to sheetrock finishing is to apply the compound with a little
extra to take off, then take some off while getting a smooth surface but
leaving as small amount extra to sand as is humanly possible, then sand as
little as possible.

Emphasis here on the least possible strokes over the surface as possible.
If you fuss over it, going over and over and over again, you will only make
it worse.

Put it on with as many strokes as needed to cover it while leaving extra for
the smoothing strokes, smooth it and take off the extra with one stroke, or
possibly two, then BE DONE! More will make it worse. Trust me on that
point.

Sand it only as necessary, hopefully not more than about 5 strokes in any
one place. If it needs more than that, you left too much on it while doing
the smoothing stroke. Also, never return compound to your tray or tub while
doing the smoothing. You will be putting hard globs back in your tub that
you want to get rid of.

Are you posting in plain text? If you are, see if you can figure out what
you need to do in your news reader (usenet) program to set it for sending
plain text. If it is set on html or rich text, it makes it impossible for
some readers to add the "" on your text by the next person's reply's
program. It is the standard used by most experienced newsgroup users.

Hope this all helps. You can do it. Just don't try to do it too good.
This is a case where more is bad and less is good!
--
Jim in NC

In article , Bill wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:
In ,
wrote:

wrote in message
...
If you go with 90 minute stuff, you can put it on without tape, but build it
up thick enough to taper out over the original sheet rock, or it will
shurely crack out. If you don't use tape or fiberglass, it may crack,
anyway. If your technique on the 90 min. stuff, you may need to use regular
joint compound to put a final sandable finish over it. Note, if you didn't
know, the 90 min. stuff is nearly impossible to sand, at all,

Depends on what you use. This stuff
http://www.lowes.
com/pd_12157-325-384211_4294858286_4294937087?productId=3010034
(Sheetrock EasySand 90) sands almost as easily as the premixed joint
compounds.

But you surely give up strength and reduced shrinkage--which appear to
be the hallmark of Durabond 90, the joint compound under discussion.

Not that I've ever noticed.

In article , Bill wrote:
I purchased a 25# bag of Durabond 90 today.

Take it back and exchange it for a bag of EasySand 90. :-)

1. Can I mix it in a plastic bucket (package says it gets "very hot")?

Yes. It gets warm, but not nearly hot enough to melt the bucket. If you don't
mix it all at once, put the remainder into an air-tight container if you want
to be able to use it later. The stuff cures by a chemical reaction with the
added water; the same reaction occurs (albeit at a slower pace) with
atmospheric moisture. With the humidity we've been experiencing lately, I
wouldn't expect the shelf life of an opened package to be more than two or
three days.

2. If I apply it with tape, would I generally add more tape if I add
setting compound later?

No.
[...]

Aside from cleaning up around a couple of my electrical boxes, my "most
troubling" joint will probably be the one about 3 inches from the
ceiling, running the length of the walls, where my old and new drywall meet.

You *definitely* want EasySand, not Durabond, for that.

BTW, There are lots of warnings on the package of Durabond 90 about the
risks of the "dust" from sanding it.

That says a lot more about the legal profession than it says about the dangers
of the product. :-)

I have just a simple drywall
sanding pole. I will wear a dust mask when I sand, but should I
"hesitate" to sand Durabond under these conditions?

No, not at all. It *may* be dangerous to someone in the trade who sands the
stuff all day, every day, without a mask. To a homeowner who does it a couple
times a year, they risk is IMO pretty near negligible.

It's a good thing I don't have to pay myself by the hour--and I'd charge
myself double for the 90+ degree days!

*My* current project is in the basement. Nyah, nyah... g

On Tue, 10 Aug 2010 21:42:44 -0400, Bill wrote:

The dry 90 minute compound, 3/8 caulking backer and glass mesh tape.
That is what I would do, hope that helps.

Mark

I am obviously not a professional. I'm sorry, I can only guess what you
mean by "3/8 caulking backer". Maybe you could you break it down into
steps?

I am not a pro, foam backer comes in different diameters. But the
Durabond 90 would probably be enough.

Mark

Markem wrote:
On Tue, 10 Aug 2010 01:50:27 -0400, Bill wrote:


Having put up most of my drywall, I have left a few gaps that are too
big (for instance, next to my plastic electrical boxes). At least one of
these gaps is at least 3/8" wide (and 4" long). My current plan is to
"glue in" a small block of drywall using my heavier joint compound, and
then build that up--allowing it to dry in between layers.

Is this approach likely to be successful (w/tape?)?

Thank you for your thoughts.


The dry 90 minute compound, 3/8 caulking backer and glass mesh tape.
That is what I would do, hope that helps.

Mark

I find glass mesh tape to be a PITA. Get too close when sanding and it
feathers up causing a real problem trying to cover it.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

On Tue, 10 Aug 2010 22:28:47 -0400, Bill wrote:

I purchased a 25# bag of Durabond 90 today.

1. Can I mix it in a plastic bucket (package says it gets "very hot")?

First, to allay severe mental anguish in your wife, run around in
circles screaming "FIRE HAZARD, WE'RE ALL GONNA DIE!" several times.

Next, mix in a dual-layered stainless steel bucket on a piece of
asbestos sheeting wearing at least 3 pairs of gloves: latex, cotton,
nitrile, and maybe rawhide leather welding gloves over those.

Have at least 3 fire extinguishers and one charged hose ready for use.


OR, just plop it into a plastic bucket and don't worry about the
warmth it rises to. Wally world has mud buckets, complete with
fiberglass tape (small roll) and mud knives for $4. Suchadeal!



2. If I apply it with tape, would I generally add more tape if I add
setting compound later?

Definitely not.


I have various joints to fill so any tips I pick up will be helpful.
I read most of Stanley's book on drywall, but it assumes "textbook
conditions" (i.e. new walls and ceiling). I hope to finish
putting up all my drywall tonight or tomorrow, so I still have time to
learn something!

Indeed you do! Corners are always fun, where the straight knife cuts
right through the paper. Got a corner mud knife yet? Did you buy the
adhesive fiberglass mesh tape instead of the cheap paper crap? Much
easier.


Aside from cleaning up around a couple of my electrical boxes, my "most
troubling" joint will probably be the one about 3 inches from the
ceiling, running the length of the walls, where my old and new drywall meet.

Did you ensure that tapered edges meet? If not, you will always have
a ridge there, no matter how deeply you sand. Remember, if you sand
through the paper, you'll be up the creek. Never apply paint to
drywall, use only primer, then paint that.


BTW, There are lots of warnings on the package of Durabond 90 about the
risks of the "dust" from sanding it.

Running around in circles screaming "DUST AND CHOKING HAZARD, WE'RE
ALL GONNA DIE" will help you and your wife cope with it, I'm sure.
(I'm so bad, aren't I? bseg)


have just a simple drywall
sanding pole. I will wear a dust mask when I sand, but should I
"hesitate" to sand Durabond under these conditions?

You could always rent a drywall sanding machine, which catches the
dust in a water well.

naturally intend
to apply the Durabond sparingly with the idea that I won't need to sand
it very much.

Intentions won't get you very far with drywall mud, but go ahead. What
can it hurt?


It's a good thing I don't have to pay myself by the hour--and I'd charge
myself double for the 90+ degree days!

Work early mornings and late evenings instead.

G'luck, Bill.

Larry Jaques wrote:

Indeed you do! Corners are always fun, where the straight knife cuts
right through the paper. Got a corner mud knife yet? Did you buy the
adhesive fiberglass mesh tape instead of the cheap paper crap? Much
easier.


There may be "easier" alternatives, but I purchased the paper tape
because I think it may lead to a better result in certain situations.
I also think that using it will help me improve my skills. I'll try to
do my inside corner with a regular knife--I just have one corner.

Thanks for your support!

Bill

Morgans wrote:


Emphasis here on the least possible strokes over the surface as possible.
If you fuss over it, going over and over and over again, you will only make
it worse.

Put it on with as many strokes as needed to cover it while leaving extra for
the smoothing strokes, smooth it and take off the extra with one stroke, or
possibly two, then BE DONE! More will make it worse. Trust me on that
point.

I worked with joint compound about 30 years ago, and I remember what you
said above better than anything!


Also, never return compound to your tray or tub while
doing the smoothing. You will be putting hard globs back in your tub that
you want to get rid of.

Thank you for pointing that out!



Are you posting in plain text?

I think so--"Western ISO-8859-1". Please let me know if I need to
change this. I started using the "SeaMonkey" client a few weeks ago.

Thank you for all of your suggestions! It's still been too hot to
finish the drywall--95 and humid!

Bill

"Bill" wrote

I think so--"Western ISO-8859-1". Please let me know if I need to change
this. I started using the "SeaMonkey" client a few weeks ago.

Showing up ok, now.

If you can stand sweating while you work, go ahead and finish your
sheetrock. You don't think the guys that do it for a living stop working
when it is hot and humid, do you? ;-) It will just take a little longer to
dry between coats.
--
Jim in NC

Morgans wrote:
wrote

I think so--"Western ISO-8859-1". Please let me know if I need to change
this. I started using the "SeaMonkey" client a few weeks ago.

Showing up ok, now.

If you can stand sweating while you work, go ahead and finish your
sheetrock. You don't think the guys that do it for a living stop working
when it is hot and humid, do you? ;-) It will just take a little longer to
dry between coats.

I just have about 25% of the sheetrock left to put up. I was going to
work on it the last two nights (late at night), but after getting my
head baked doing yard work I couldn't bring myself to do it. Thanks for
the pep-talk! I'll try not to disappoint! : )

Bill

"Bill" wrote

I just have about 25% of the sheetrock left to put up. I was going to
work on it the last two nights (late at night), but after getting my head
baked doing yard work I couldn't bring myself to do it. Thanks for the
pep-talk! I'll try not to disappoint! : )

Don't kill yourself, though. It will get done as you are able.

I learned a trick about cooling off after getting way too hot one summer
working on Hilton Head Island, South Carolina. It was a record heat wave,
and I was working with a buddy's dad on a framing crew, and as luck would
have it the hottest two days we were working the roof with tar paper being
put down at the end. It was well over 100 in the shade, so you can imagine
how hot it was over tar paper.

If you get too hot, bend way over and let a hose run over your head for
about a minute. It is amazing how much heat the head radiates, and if you
cool it, you will quickly cool down your blood and the whole body core as
well. Dry off the head and hair, and you are good to go for a while. For
extra coolness, soak a tee shirt in the cool hose water, and then wring it
out as dry as you can and put it back on. The evaporation of the water in
the tee is about like wearing an air conditioner.

Good luck. Ask any more questions as they come up.
--
Jim in NC

Morgans wrote:
wrote

I just have about 25% of the sheetrock left to put up. I was going to
work on it the last two nights (late at night), but after getting my head
baked doing yard work I couldn't bring myself to do it. Thanks for the
pep-talk! I'll try not to disappoint! : )

Don't kill yourself, though. It will get done as you are able.

Yep, I just about finished it--only 1 more full-sheet to put up and I'll
wait til tomorrow when I can get a little help.

Good luck. Ask any more questions as they come up.

Thank you very much! Unfortunately, from this point, I think I'm going
to learn most of my lessons the hard way!

I do have one question: Would you sand to 150 or 220 grit? At the store
I was at, they were out of 150 so I bought the 220, but I'm wondering
whether I might regret that. I also have some 120 grit to sand my
setting compound.

Bill

"Morgans" wrote in
:

If you get too hot, bend way over and let a hose run over your head
for about a minute. It is amazing how much heat the head radiates,
and if you cool it, you will quickly cool down your blood and the
whole body core as well.

Same works with letting cool/cold water flow over the inside of your
wrists.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

On Aug 12, 12:13*am, Bill wrote:
Morgans wrote:
*wrote

I just have about 25% of the sheetrock left to put up. *I was going to
work on it the last two nights (late at night), but after getting my head
baked doing yard work I couldn't bring myself to do it. *Thanks for the
pep-talk! *I'll try not to disappoint! *: )

* Don't kill yourself, though. *It will get done as you are able.

Yep, I just about finished it--only 1 more full-sheet to put up and I'll
wait til tomorrow when I can get a little help.

Good luck. *Ask any more questions as they come up.

Thank you very much! *Unfortunately, from this point, I think I'm going
to learn most of my lessons the hard way!

I do have one question: Would you sand to 150 or 220 grit? *At the store
I was at, they were out of 150 so I bought the 220, but I'm wondering
whether I might regret that. * I also have some 120 grit to sand my
setting compound.

I would sand to 220 and forget the 120. I tend to take too much off
anyway. I suggest the drywall sanding screens rather than sandpaper,
too. For $20 or so you can buy a sanding screen attachment for a shop
vac that'll suck up all the dust, too.

On 12 Aug 2010 11:49:53 GMT, Han wrote:

"Morgans" wrote in
:

If you get too hot, bend way over and let a hose run over your head
for about a minute. It is amazing how much heat the head radiates,
and if you cool it, you will quickly cool down your blood and the
whole body core as well.

Same works with letting cool/cold water flow over the inside of your
wrists.

Inside of the wrists & elbows, back of the knees, the feet.
A wet kerchief does amazing things to your entire system temps, too.
Hats help.

Hiring some punk kid to do the work (cheap) for you during the summer
helps the most, though.

wrote:
For $20 or so you can buy a sanding screen attachment for a shop
vac that'll suck up all the dust, too.

Thanks for bring that up again--I think I'm going to take back the
sanding pole I bought and get one that involves the shopvac.

Bill

On Aug 12, 1:19*pm, Bill wrote:
wrote:

* For $20 or so you can buy a sanding screen attachment for a shop

vac that'll suck up all the dust, too.

Thanks for bring that up again--I think I'm going to take back the
sanding pole I bought and get one that involves the shopvac.

Well, there is nothing preventing you from using a sanding screen on a
pole. I can't remember if my vac/screen thingy has a pole mount
though. In any case, I'd use screen rather than sandpaper. It
doesn't plug up like sandpaper. The only caveat is to not sand in the
same direction as the screen.

"Bill" wrote

Thanks for bring that up again--I think I'm going to take back the sanding
pole I bought and get one that involves the shopvac.

The biggest bonus of using that type is that the suction helps to pull it
onto the surface, so it requires less muscle to use it.
--
Jim in NC

Morgans wrote:
wrote

Thanks for bring that up again--I think I'm going to take back the sanding
pole I bought and get one that involves the shopvac.

The biggest bonus of using that type is that the suction helps to pull it
onto the surface, so it requires less muscle to use it.


I paid the $44.38... (ouch!), and got it. I expect it will probably
turn out to be a really good investment in my state of mind.

I wonder if one of the new Delta 18-900L DP's would be a good investment
in my state of mind too? I'm not sure, but I sense that they may be
discontinuing the Delta 17-959L DP which I am more seriously considering.

Bill

On Thu, 12 Aug 2010 23:48:00 -0400, Bill wrote:

Morgans wrote:
wrote

Thanks for bring that up again--I think I'm going to take back the sanding
pole I bought and get one that involves the shopvac.

The biggest bonus of using that type is that the suction helps to pull it
onto the surface, so it requires less muscle to use it.


I paid the $44.38... (ouch!), and got it. I expect it will probably
turn out to be a really good investment in my state of mind.

I wonder if one of the new Delta 18-900L DP's would be a good investment
in my state of mind too? I'm not sure, but I sense that they may be
discontinuing the Delta 17-959L DP which I am more seriously considering.

Delta is proud of that 18-900L. At $900 (Amazon) it's right up there with the
variable speed PowerMatic PM2800. I've seen the PM2800 as low as $800, but
not often.

zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Thu, 12 Aug 2010 23:48:00 -0400, wrote:

Morgans wrote:
wrote

Thanks for bring that up again--I think I'm going to take back the sanding
pole I bought and get one that involves the shopvac.

The biggest bonus of using that type is that the suction helps to pull it
onto the surface, so it requires less muscle to use it.


I paid the $44.38... (ouch!), and got it. I expect it will probably
turn out to be a really good investment in my state of mind.

I wonder if one of the new Delta 18-900L DP's would be a good investment
in my state of mind too? I'm not sure, but I sense that they may be
discontinuing the Delta 17-959L DP which I am more seriously considering.

Delta is proud of that 18-900L. At $900 (Amazon) it's right up there with the
variable speed PowerMatic PM2800. I've seen the PM2800 as low as $800, but
not often.

It's listed at Amazon, but Amazon is not the seller--CPO PorterCable is.
I thought the retail on the DP was supposed to be $829 ($250 more than
the 17-959L). I think the only thing I don't care for in the PM2800 is
that the slowest speed is not really slow enough to drill metal.

Bill wrote:


It's listed at Amazon, but Amazon is not the seller--CPO PorterCable
is. I thought the retail on the DP was supposed to be $829 ($250
more than the 17-959L). I think the only thing I don't care for in
the PM2800 is that the slowest speed is not really slow enough to
drill metal.

That should be a show stopper right there.

--

-Mike-

On Aug 12, 11:36*pm, Bill wrote:
wrote:
On Thu, 12 Aug 2010 23:48:00 -0400, *wrote:

Morgans wrote:
* wrote

Thanks for bring that up again--I think I'm going to take back the sanding
pole I bought and get one that involves the shopvac.

* *The biggest bonus of using that type is that the suction helps to pull it
onto the surface, so it requires less muscle to use it.

I paid the $44.38... (ouch!), and got it. *I expect it will probably
turn out to be a really good investment in my state of mind.

I wonder if one of the new Delta 18-900L DP's would be a good investment
in my state of mind too? *I'm not sure, but I sense that they may be
discontinuing the Delta 17-959L DP which I am more seriously considering.

Delta is proud of that 18-900L. *At $900 (Amazon) it's right up there with the
variable speed PowerMatic PM2800. *I've seen the PM2800 as low as $800, but
not often.

It's listed at Amazon, but Amazon is not the seller--CPO PorterCable is.
* I thought the retail on the DP was supposed to be $829 ($250 more than
the 17-959L). *I think the only thing I don't care for in the PM2800 is
that the slowest speed is not really slow enough to drill metal.

That's certainly something to consider, however I don't remember the
last time I drilled metal. I do like the variable speed feature of
the PM2800.

Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:


It's listed at Amazon, but Amazon is not the seller--CPO PorterCable
is. I thought the retail on the DP was supposed to be $829 ($250
more than the 17-959L). I think the only thing I don't care for in
the PM2800 is that the slowest speed is not really slow enough to
drill metal.

That should be a show stopper right there.

It is for me.

1) Can I, in good conscience, use traditional "paper joint tape
"through-out my project, or should I be using fiberglass tape at butted
joints and wider joints?

I've decided "Stanley's Complete Drywall" book didn't really help me
very much at all. In retrospect, I probably should have bought a book
on "finishing".

2) One place I looked today online suggested leaving plenty of space,
and using angled cuts between butted drywall ends, and even using
fiberglass joint tape too add more strength. Stanley's book didn't
discuss any of these issues. The butted ends of my drywall are pretty
close and I was contemplating whether to chip away at them with
box-cutter and whether to use fiberglass joint tape on them.


Now, as Yogi Berra might say, I'm ready to start but I'm not ready to
start...

Bill

On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 17:33:04 -0400, Bill wrote:

1) Can I, in good conscience, use traditional "paper joint tape
"through-out my project, or should I be using fiberglass tape at butted
joints and wider joints?

Do what works for you. I can't get the bubbles out from under paper tape, so
use fiberglass mesh.

I've decided "Stanley's Complete Drywall" book didn't really help me
very much at all. In retrospect, I probably should have bought a book
on "finishing".

2) One place I looked today online suggested leaving plenty of space,
and using angled cuts between butted drywall ends, and even using
fiberglass joint tape too add more strength. Stanley's book didn't
discuss any of these issues. The butted ends of my drywall are pretty
close and I was contemplating whether to chip away at them with
box-cutter and whether to use fiberglass joint tape on them.

I wouldn't want to chance anything being loose in the joint.

Now, as Yogi Berra might say, I'm ready to start but I'm not ready to
start...

Isn't that the way it is with everything new. ;-)