On 12/07/2015 06:11 PM, Danny D. wrote:
clare wrote, on Mon, 07 Dec 2015 18:24:03 -0500:

A large percentage of tires have a significant dynamic inballance.
Some cars are not fussy about dynamic balance - others are very fussy.

I only have experience with a sum total of five (5) tires.
And, so far, they've balanced just fine with my HF static balancer.
As I said, I have BBS wheels (standard BMW issue) so maybe that plays a role.
Also, the 5 tires were all bought at the same time from Tire Rack.
Dunno if that has an effect at all (probably not).
I removed all the weights first.
I then balanced them (none needed more than a short strip of weights).
Pretty much that was it.

Car never vibrated.
If it did, I'd take it to the shop.
But it didn't.


That's the nice thing about running DOT legal knobbies on a dual sport.
Balance the tire? How could I ever tell whether it was balanced or not?

Danny D. wrote:
Frank wrote, on Mon, 07 Dec 2015 19:41:28 -0500:

AWD Subaru requires all 4 tires be equal.

What does 'equal' mean?

All tires should be "equal" with respect to size, brand, & tread pattern.
It's just plain ghetto to have different tires on the same axle even.
You shouldn't even have appreciably different wear on them.

So, I don't know what you've been drinking that makes Subaru
any different than any other vehicle.

Those Subaru Marketing teams have you snowed I think.

We have 2 Subarus in the family for years. Symmetrical AWD they are.
There is Youtube explaning Subaru system, one of the
best. Audi Quattro, BMW xDrive, Acura SH AWD... Subaru,
Acura come out on top.

clare wrote, on Mon, 07 Dec 2015 21:05:14 -0500:

It's a lot more important on cars with all wheel drive and fancy
stability/traction control.

They were NOT snowing him.

I wouldn't "think" of driving any car without all four tires
"matching" in tread pattern and brand and model.

I still don't see why a Subaru is any different than any
other vehicle, AWD or otherwise.

What the heck does AWD have to do with it anyway?
All decent cars have stability control (and have had them
for a decade or more).

Mine, for example, is a dozen years old and it has DSC, and,
all cars, by law, I think nowadays, have stability control.

So, what's different about a Subaru (except the marketing
team wants you to "think" they're "special").

rbowman wrote, on Mon, 07 Dec 2015 20:55:47 -0700:

That's the nice thing about running DOT legal knobbies on a dual sport.
Balance the tire? How could I ever tell whether it was balanced or not?

Actually, you balance the wheel and the tire.
But, you're right.
You wouldn't be able to tell with those knobbies!

clare wrote, on Mon, 07 Dec 2015 21:11:02 -0500:

Get that on the front of a twitchy little sedam like a BMW320 with
only a static ballance, and your hands will get a good massage from
the steering wheel, even if the bumper doesn't jump.

I fully and completely understand.
But, at least in my ONE (single!) test of 5 tires on 5 rims, it didn't happen.

clare wrote, on Mon, 07 Dec 2015 21:50:48 -0500:

Doesn't need any weight. All he needs is a few ratchet straps - one
on each side at the front and one at the center rear. Draw the
suspension down by pulling the body down to the alignment rack to the
prescribed level, and do the adjustments. No rocket science involved.

There are some intelligent mechanics around, you know.

This is a very clever idea, and, it fits the idea, which is to "set"
the car at the stipulated "normal ride height" (which we all agree
is nothing close to "normal") *before* you start the alignment.

Strapping the car down until the distance between the wheel well
center and the center of the wheel is the defined distance will
work.

I have never seen anyone *do* that; but I can't disagree.
It will work.

So will about 500 pounds (in addition to 18 gallons of fuel).

But, most alignment shops don't do either (from my experience calling
around). And, most bimmer owners don't even know what I'm talking
about.

You know.
But most don't.

clare wrote, on Mon, 07 Dec 2015 21:52:49 -0500:

What's the difference between a Bimmer and a Beemer????

Big difference.
Anyone saying the wrong word is an idiot poser.

A beemer is the bike.
A bimmer is not the bike; it's the car.

The name has a *long* history.
Anyone who says it wrong is an idiot because it means they don't
know the absolute least about the thing that they ride or drive.

It's just like if a guy says he "drives" a beemer.
Nobody "drives" a beemer.

You ride a beemer; you drive a bimmer.
You just sound stupid if you don't know the basic difference.

There is a long history on all of this.
Let me dig it up... click ... click ... google ... google ...

Here is a decent description:
http://www.boston-bmwcca.org/referen...er-beemer.aspx

BTW, it doesn't matter what *you* (or I) think; it matters that anyone
who knows anything about bimmers or beemers know this, and anyone who
knows absolutely nothing about bimmers or beemers doesn't know this.

Ed Pawlowski wrote, on Mon, 07 Dec 2015 22:54:59 -0500:

Pennsylvania
has the highest rate of 51.60 cents per gallon (cpg), and is followed
closely by New York (45.99 cpg), Hawaii (45.10 cpg), and California
(42.35 cpg).

Not really true. You were snowed.

Like any statistic, you have to look at the full picture.

California ostensibly *lowered* the gas tax recently; but they *raised*
the sales tax.

To count one and not the other isn't telling the true story.

For example, this is from 2014, but look at the numbers:
http://www.foxandhoundsdaily.com/201...tax-nightmare/

"California consumers currently pay 71 cents per gallon in taxes every
time they fill up their tanks. Thats the highest gas tax rate in the
country. The average American pays less€”about 50 cents per gallon."

It's sort of like your phone bill. You have to look at *all* the
taxes and so-called "fees", which, on purpose, they break into
a billion little pieces, just so they can fool people like you
and me.

clare wrote, on Mon, 07 Dec 2015 21:56:43 -0500:

The BBS rims are no better balance wise than any quality OEM or
aftermarket alloy rim. I have Ford OEM alloys for my snows and Eagle
Alloy rims for my summer rims on the Ranger. The rims themselves all
balance out perfectly on the dynamic balancer with stems installed..

No measurable radial or side to side runout.

I wasn't saying that the BBS part was better but I easily see how you
may have construed that.

I was assuming (just guessing, really) that an expensive allow rim
would likely run truer than a cheap steel wheel.

BTW, I also tested rim runout, which is *easy* once you have a tire
changing machine and a static balancer because you can spin the rim
on the tools with a dial gauge mounted on the wall or even with a
flat wall nearby and a feeler gauge.

clare wrote, on Mon, 07 Dec 2015 22:04:14 -0500:

You don't need to make them. They came as standard equipment with many
GM vehicles with air ajustable suspension - to use the air ride
compressor to blow up tires (or footballs, or swimming tubes, or
whatever) I have 2 of them - must be if to 20 feet long each.

Nice. I need to find a set of me!
(My bimmer doesn't have air suspension.)

It's hard to find a picture based on your description.
Is this what yours look like?

http://s26.photobucket.com/user/T-Ma...se003.jpg.html

clare wrote, on Mon, 07 Dec 2015 22:11:22 -0500:

I used to have to blow up tires on farm wagons with one of those pumps
as a young feller. Thankfully they were tube type tires - seating a
bead on a tubeless tire with a hand pump would be a trick (use ether
and throw a match if you get stuck having to do the deed)

I've done it, for fun, with almost anything flammable (I think I used
carb cleaner or MAF cleaner as I recall). It blows up fast. Really
really really fast. And it's loud!

Luckily, once I got the HF tire-changing tool, seating the bead is
no problem. Just a bit of Dawn or Palmalive and the 4 foot long
red tire iron that comes with the tool is all you need.

My medium-profile thinwall tires are a breeze.
A SUV is much harder.

All depends on the tire sidewall thickness (thinner is easier).

Ashton Crusher wrote, on Mon, 07 Dec 2015 18:58:06 -0700:

Wow, 60 posts on "advise to patch a tire".
Must be a very complicated repair.

To be fair, the very first response gave the right answer:
WWS TEXAS wrote, on Mon, 07 Dec 2015 08:57:48 -0800

The rest is conversation.

I'm was gonna take the wheel and tire assembly to Wheel Works
today simply because they said it would be free (I asked multiple
times because I couldn't believe it) and that it would be a
mushroom patchplug style repair from the inside.

They even do the unmounting, remounting, and balancing for that
"free" amount (I'm incredulous).

I was fully prepared to do it myself, but, free is too good to
pass up (but, I will be wary about them damaging my wheel or
not mounting the tire EXACTLY where I match mounted it previously).

So, I "may" unmount the tire myself, and then remount it and
rebalance it myself. Dunno yet if I'm gonna go that far, 'cuz
free (totally free) is really hard to beat.

I'll let you know tomorrow. I was gonna go today but when I had
to put the key in the ignition to straighten the wheels to jack
the rear up to remove the tire, I accidentally left the key in
the ignition.

Normally a bimmer goes to sleep in 16 minutes, but, apparently it
doesn't do that when the key is in the ignition. So it's trickle
charging overnight.

On Mon, 07 Dec 2015 18:26:23 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 07 Dec 2015 16:34:49 -0500, Micky
wrote:

On Mon, 07 Dec 2015 12:56:18 -0500, Micky
wrote:


On Mon, 7 Dec 2015 16:45:40 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

I'm gonna patch my first automotive tire this week.

I just use "strings", with rubber cement, and it works well.
I follow the instructions.

I should add that with the strings, you stuff the folded string in the
hole, then when the probe is in the tire, you rotate it a couple
turns, and that make a "ball" of string inside the tire, so the string
doesn't come out. That's why the probe shouldn't be a comple 0, but
have an opening in the side, like a C, so that it will come loose and
you can pull it out without any of the string.

I used to use "plugs'.

They worked well too.

My probe/rasp tool finally broke, so I bought a better quality one.
Maybe I bought a better quality of both.

Some webpage pointed to by some post here said holes up to 1/4" but my
impression is that a 3/8 or evne 1/2 screw makes a hole that is bigger
than 1/4" when something is holding the hole open, but closes down to
almost nothing when the screw is removed. ???
The hole in the cords of the tire are the size of what goes through -
and the "plug" needs to fill the hole right to the cords - so no - the
hole sdoes not "close in" requiring or allowing a smaller plug. It
closes down to LOOK like a smaller hole.

Okay. I forgot about cords.

On Mon, 7 Dec 2015 22:00:05 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

clare wrote, on Mon, 07 Dec 2015 15:37:51 -0500:

The plug patch is far superior to the string. I'll use a string in
an emergency - reluctantly.

I keep the T-shaped handle thing in my car for emergencies.
What I really need, for emergencies, is air.
I keep buying that liquid-air stuff, and it keeps going bad.

What I really need is simply a tire-valve-hose.

They used to sell those for just this purpose. Probably at
JCWhitney. Havent' seen one for sale for 20 or 30 years.

That way, I can suck some air out of the other four tires to
fill the one tire that is temporarily patched from the outside
in a super emergency.

Problem is, there are never any emergencies.
The spare works just fine when I get a flat.

So, why repair on the road from the outside?

I had an occasion where the hole was showing and it was just as easy
to patch it on the car as off. The car was here, not on the road.

Another occasion when I couldn't get the tire off, but in that case
the hole wasn't showing or I didn't have any strings with me. I
forget.

On Tue, 8 Dec 2015 01:39:36 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

clare wrote, on Mon, 07 Dec 2015 18:38:42 -0500:

A 12 volt compressor or a good manual tire pump is a
lot better than canned air


I carried a 12 v compressor for years when flat tires were more
common. Never had to use it for a flat as I recall, but it came in
handy for pumping up slow leaks, and after plugging a couple tires.
I cut off the cig lighter plug and simply extended the cord with an
old 20' extension cord, and added alligator clips. Always hooked it
up directly to my battery. Small package, but slow to pump.
Prefer a foot operated pump.
Carried canned air for a while, and used it one time for a nail
puncture until I could get home and plug it.
I swear it's been 20 years since I've had a flat.

On 12/7/2015 8:11 PM, Danny D. wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote, on Mon, 07 Dec 2015 18:40:24 -0500:

It took me a while to walk home after the flat.

Good.
Oren is polishing his bullets; you're preaching on the road!

Kewl.
All is well.


And when the next ISIS strike happens,
Oren will be using his bullets, and I'll
be using my prayer power.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

Stormin Mormon wrote, on Tue, 08 Dec 2015 06:37:12 -0500:

And when the next ISIS strike happens,
Oren will be using his bullets, and I'll
be using my prayer power.

And, I'll be patchin' up all the holes!

On 12/8/2015 6:57 AM, Danny D. wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote, on Tue, 08 Dec 2015 06:37:12 -0500:

And when the next ISIS strike happens,
Oren will be using his bullets, and I'll
be using my prayer power.

And, I'll be patchin' up all the holes!


Make mine self vulcanizing rubber, that's logical.

Live long and prosper. And try not to get shot by
radical Islam jihadists.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 12/07/2015 09:38 PM, Danny D. wrote:
BTW, it doesn't matter what*you* (or I) think; it matters that anyone
who knows anything about bimmers or beemers know this, and anyone who
knows absolutely nothing about bimmers or beemers doesn't know this.

You save bimmer I say beemer.... All I know about the subject is the
Hells Angels came here on their summer run. Despite the massive police
overreaction, they minded their own business and it was an uneventful
weekend. When the BMW riders came to town, not so much.

Danny D. wrote:
clare wrote, on Mon, 07 Dec 2015 18:24:03 -0500:

A large percentage of tires have a significant dynamic inballance.
Some cars are not fussy about dynamic balance - others are very fussy.

I only have experience with a sum total of five (5) tires.
And, so far, they've balanced just fine with my HF static balancer.
As I said, I have BBS wheels (standard BMW issue) so maybe that plays a role.
Also, the 5 tires were all bought at the same time from Tire Rack.
Dunno if that has an effect at all (probably not).
I removed all the weights first.
I then balanced them (none needed more than a short strip of weights).
Pretty much that was it.

Car never vibrated.
If it did, I'd take it to the shop.
But it didn't.

And you druve Bimmer!

On Mon, 07 Dec 2015 18:58:06 -0700, Ashton Crusher
wrote:

Wow, 60 posts on "advise to patch a tire". Must be a very
complicated repair.

.... pool pump repair may take up to 500 postings. Same with garage
door repairs. Danny does do his research

On Tue, 8 Dec 2015 06:37:12 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 12/7/2015 8:11 PM, Danny D. wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote, on Mon, 07 Dec 2015 18:40:24 -0500:

It took me a while to walk home after the flat.

Good.
Oren is polishing his bullets; you're preaching on the road!

Kewl.
All is well.


And when the next ISIS strike happens,
Oren will be using his bullets, and I'll
be using my prayer power.

Not just ISIS. At least with clean and sanitized bullets; the
do-bad's wouldn't die from lead poisoning or infection. Most likely
because they ran out of oxygen.
--
"People who worry about crocodiles are smart!" -Joe Machi

On Tue, 8 Dec 2015 11:57:12 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

Stormin Mormon wrote, on Tue, 08 Dec 2015 06:37:12 -0500:

And when the next ISIS strike happens,
Oren will be using his bullets, and I'll
be using my prayer power.

And, I'll be patchin' up all the holes!

You'll be busy, so pack a lunch.
--
"People who worry about crocodiles are smart!" -Joe Machi

On 12/7/2015 11:38 PM, Danny D. wrote:
clare wrote, on Mon, 07 Dec 2015 21:52:49 -0500:

What's the difference between a Bimmer and a Beemer????

Big difference.
Anyone saying the wrong word is an idiot poser.


Here is a decent description:
http://www.boston-bmwcca.org/referen...er-beemer.aspx

BTW, it doesn't matter what *you* (or I) think; it matters that anyone
who knows anything about bimmers or beemers know this, and anyone who
knows absolutely nothing about bimmers or beemers doesn't know this.


Truth is, most of us don't give a damn. 90% of the owners are snobs no
matter what you call a BMW.

Ed Pawlowski wrote, on Tue, 08 Dec 2015 14:11:17 -0500:

Truth is, most of us don't give a damn.
90% of the owners are snobs no matter what you call a BMW.

That you don't give a damn is perfectly acceptable.
That you think BMW owners are all snobs, is just as acceptable.

I was just answering the question because someone asked what the
difference was between a bimmer and a beemer (and, anyone who
knows the least bit about them, already knows the difference).

Once I answered the question, we should have been done with
this discussion.

If, after being told the simple answer, they *still* want to
call it the wrong thing, then that's up to them. Not me.

If they want to call a tire a wheel, who am I to argue with them?
If they want to call a nail a screw, who am I to argue with them?
If they want to call a wheelcover a hubcap, who am I to argue with them?
etc.

I was simply answering the question.

Oren wrote, on Tue, 08 Dec 2015 10:36:10 -0800:

Pool pump repair may take up to 500 postings.
Same with garage door repairs.
Danny does do his research

Hi Oren,

The number of posts don't matter (that just means I'm responsive).
What matters is what *we* learn. Together.
And, how we help each other.

And I *always* appreciate your help and that from the others!
And, well, I learned far too much today!

Bad news!
The tire is ruined.

Why?
I'm soooooooo stupid.
So very stupid.
It's all my fault.

However, the good news is that I *learned* a lot!
And, there's much (much) more to learn about patching tires properly!

I have to run to pick up my sister's kids (they're staying with us
"temporarily" for the past year - which is ok with me - as long as
my sister's latest loser boyfriend doesn't get on our nerves!), so
I haven't uploaded the pictures yet, but, I'm gonna *experiment*
with the tire, since I ruined it already.

It turns out that a proper patch requires some special tools
and materials, such as explained in this quickie procedure.

1. Mark the hole outside and inside (circle 1/2" outside patch area)
2. Inspect for damage (no visible treads on the inside)
3. Probe the angle & thickness of the hole with a tapered awl
4. Optionally put down a solvent to remove the inside coat
5. Optionally use a half-moon scraper to scrape to vulcanized rubber
6. Buff with a semicircular tire-buffing wheel (2500to5000rpm only!)
7. CRITICAL! Three passes both ways with a carbide cutter!=== critical!
8. Brass bristle brush and/or vacuum away shavings
9. Fill the hole with cement and around the patch area (to chalk circle)
10 DO NOT TOUCH THE STEM OF THE PATCHPLUG!
11. Pull patchplug through the hole until it slightly dimples
12. Roll a round serrated stitcher across every mm of the patch
13. Optionally add a tire liner sealer to the inside
14. Cut the rubber stem flush outside.

Most of the tools I might get away with a dremel tool (on super low
speed) but I think the main tool that I need to buy is the
carbide bit which is a special bit to smooth down the sharp ends
of the cut belt.

Have you seen these tools in a kit?
a. Half-moon scraper
b. Semicircular buffing wheel
c. Carbide cutter === very important
d. Stitcher wheel

Anyway, I'll be back, as I took pictures, but I have to run to pick up
the kids.

On Tue, 8 Dec 2015 21:09:16 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

Oren wrote, on Tue, 08 Dec 2015 10:36:10 -0800:

Pool pump repair may take up to 500 postings.
Same with garage door repairs.
Danny does do his research

Hi Oren,

The number of posts don't matter (that just means I'm responsive).
What matters is what *we* learn. Together.
And, how we help each other.

And I *always* appreciate your help and that from the others!
And, well, I learned far too much today!

Bad news!
The tire is ruined.

Why?
I'm soooooooo stupid.
So very stupid.
It's all my fault.

However, the good news is that I *learned* a lot!
And, there's much (much) more to learn about patching tires properly!

I have to run to pick up my sister's kids (they're staying with us
"temporarily" for the past year - which is ok with me - as long as
my sister's latest loser boyfriend doesn't get on our nerves!), so
I haven't uploaded the pictures yet, but, I'm gonna *experiment*
with the tire, since I ruined it already.

It turns out that a proper patch requires some special tools
and materials, such as explained in this quickie procedure.

1. Mark the hole outside and inside (circle 1/2" outside patch area)
2. Inspect for damage (no visible treads on the inside)
3. Probe the angle & thickness of the hole with a tapered awl
4. Optionally put down a solvent to remove the inside coat
5. Optionally use a half-moon scraper to scrape to vulcanized rubber
6. Buff with a semicircular tire-buffing wheel (2500to5000rpm only!)
7. CRITICAL! Three passes both ways with a carbide cutter!=== critical!
8. Brass bristle brush and/or vacuum away shavings
9. Fill the hole with cement and around the patch area (to chalk circle)
10 DO NOT TOUCH THE STEM OF THE PATCHPLUG!
11. Pull patchplug through the hole until it slightly dimples
12. Roll a round serrated stitcher across every mm of the patch
13. Optionally add a tire liner sealer to the inside
14. Cut the rubber stem flush outside.

Most of the tools I might get away with a dremel tool (on super low
speed) but I think the main tool that I need to buy is the
carbide bit which is a special bit to smooth down the sharp ends
of the cut belt.

Have you seen these tools in a kit?
a. Half-moon scraper
b. Semicircular buffing wheel
c. Carbide cutter === very important
d. Stitcher wheel

Anyway, I'll be back, as I took pictures, but I have to run to pick up
the kids.

Oh, Danny. The important thing to know is that you pick huckleberries
when they are ripe and you have a basket :-)

A professional accountant counts the beans.

On Tue, 8 Dec 2015 04:29:34 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

clare wrote, on Mon, 07 Dec 2015 21:05:14 -0500:

It's a lot more important on cars with all wheel drive and fancy
stability/traction control.

They were NOT snowing him.

I wouldn't "think" of driving any car without all four tires
"matching" in tread pattern and brand and model.

I still don't see why a Subaru is any different than any
other vehicle, AWD or otherwise.

AWD has 3 differentials. Different diameter tires cause the
differentials to "work" all the time. If they have limited slip or
traction control, the different sized wheels turn at different speeds
and confuse the heck out of everything.

What the heck does AWD have to do with it anyway?
All decent cars have stability control (and have had them
for a decade or more).

Mine, for example, is a dozen years old and it has DSC, and,
all cars, by law, I think nowadays, have stability control.

Not yet - but next year. And ALL cars with dynamic stability control
tell you you need to have all tires matching.

But what the heck - it's your car. Drive with 4 different sized tires
and pay your repair bills.

So, what's different about a Subaru (except the marketing
team wants you to "think" they're "special").

On Tue, 8 Dec 2015 04:30:55 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

clare wrote, on Mon, 07 Dec 2015 21:11:02 -0500:

Get that on the front of a twitchy little sedam like a BMW320 with
only a static ballance, and your hands will get a good massage from
the steering wheel, even if the bumper doesn't jump.

I fully and completely understand.
But, at least in my ONE (single!) test of 5 tires on 5 rims, it didn't happen.
You didn't need 1.5 oz to static and 4 to dynamic balance - so you
got lucky. (and you haven't had all 5 on the front yet either - you
might still get a surpeise!!

On Tue, 8 Dec 2015 04:33:25 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

clare wrote, on Mon, 07 Dec 2015 21:50:48 -0500:

Doesn't need any weight. All he needs is a few ratchet straps - one
on each side at the front and one at the center rear. Draw the
suspension down by pulling the body down to the alignment rack to the
prescribed level, and do the adjustments. No rocket science involved.

There are some intelligent mechanics around, you know.

This is a very clever idea, and, it fits the idea, which is to "set"
the car at the stipulated "normal ride height" (which we all agree
is nothing close to "normal") *before* you start the alignment.

Strapping the car down until the distance between the wheel well
center and the center of the wheel is the defined distance will
work.

I have never seen anyone *do* that; but I can't disagree.
It will work.


You were never in MY shop!!!
So will about 500 pounds (in addition to 18 gallons of fuel).

But, most alignment shops don't do either (from my experience calling
around). And, most bimmer owners don't even know what I'm talking
about.

You know.
But most don't.

On Tue, 8 Dec 2015 04:38:36 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

clare wrote, on Mon, 07 Dec 2015 21:52:49 -0500:

What's the difference between a Bimmer and a Beemer????

Big difference.
Anyone saying the wrong word is an idiot poser.

A beemer is the bike.
A bimmer is not the bike; it's the car.

The name has a *long* history.
Anyone who says it wrong is an idiot because it means they don't
know the absolute least about the thing that they ride or drive.

It's just like if a guy says he "drives" a beemer.
Nobody "drives" a beemer.

You ride a beemer; you drive a bimmer.
You just sound stupid if you don't know the basic difference.

There is a long history on all of this.
Let me dig it up... click ... click ... google ... google ...

Here is a decent description:
http://www.boston-bmwcca.org/referen...er-beemer.aspx

BTW, it doesn't matter what *you* (or I) think; it matters that anyone
who knows anything about bimmers or beemers know this, and anyone who
knows absolutely nothing about bimmers or beemers doesn't know this.
That may be location specific. Around here they can both be bimmers,
or beemers - And they are often called a lot worse!!!

Same company - so same name.

On Tue, 8 Dec 2015 04:47:30 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

clare wrote, on Mon, 07 Dec 2015 21:56:43 -0500:

The BBS rims are no better balance wise than any quality OEM or
aftermarket alloy rim. I have Ford OEM alloys for my snows and Eagle
Alloy rims for my summer rims on the Ranger. The rims themselves all
balance out perfectly on the dynamic balancer with stems installed..

No measurable radial or side to side runout.

I wasn't saying that the BBS part was better but I easily see how you
may have construed that.

I was assuming (just guessing, really) that an expensive allow rim
would likely run truer than a cheap steel wheel.

BTW, I also tested rim runout, which is *easy* once you have a tire
changing machine and a static balancer because you can spin the rim
on the tools with a dial gauge mounted on the wall or even with a
flat wall nearby and a feeler gauge.
A lot easier on a dynamic balancer.

clare wrote, on Tue, 08 Dec 2015 17:22:27 -0500:

Not yet - but next year. And ALL cars with dynamic stability control
tell you you need to have all tires matching.

But what the heck - it's your car. Drive with 4 different sized tires
and pay your repair bills.

You seem to have everything wrong, but I don't know where you get
your ideas from.

I was never talking about putting the wrong *size* on the car or even
different sizes on the same axle, or even on different axles.

If you inferred that, I never said (nor implied it).

clare wrote, on Tue, 08 Dec 2015 17:24:13 -0500:

You didn't need 1.5 oz to static and 4 to dynamic balance - so you
got lucky. (and you haven't had all 5 on the front yet either - you
might still get a surpeise!!

I never disputed the inherent value of dynamic balancing.

clare wrote, on Tue, 08 Dec 2015 17:26:51 -0500:

That may be location specific. Around here they can both be bimmers,
or beemers - And they are often called a lot worse!!!

Let's stop discussing this because there is a well known description
which I pointed folks to, which clearly shows what aficionados call
the thing in the US and in the UK.

In other countries, their typical customs and norms will prevail.
Remember, I didn't bring this up.

Someone asked.
I explained.

They asked for clarification.
I provided a reliable reference.

They either accept the answer or they don't.
There's nothing more for me to tell them.

On Tue, 8 Dec 2015 04:50:20 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

clare wrote, on Mon, 07 Dec 2015 22:04:14 -0500:

You don't need to make them. They came as standard equipment with many
GM vehicles with air ajustable suspension - to use the air ride
compressor to blow up tires (or footballs, or swimming tubes, or
whatever) I have 2 of them - must be if to 20 feet long each.

Nice. I need to find a set of me!
(My bimmer doesn't have air suspension.)

It's hard to find a picture based on your description.
Is this what yours look like?

http://s26.photobucket.com/user/T-Ma...se003.jpg.html
That is it.

wrote:
On Tue, 8 Dec 2015 04:29:34 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

clare wrote, on Mon, 07 Dec 2015 21:05:14 -0500:

It's a lot more important on cars with all wheel drive and fancy
stability/traction control.

They were NOT snowing him.

I wouldn't "think" of driving any car without all four tires
"matching" in tread pattern and brand and model.

I still don't see why a Subaru is any different than any
other vehicle, AWD or otherwise.

Because you don't know the anatomy of Subaru system yet.


AWD has 3 differentials. Different diameter tires cause the
differentials to "work" all the time. If they have limited slip or
traction control, the different sized wheels turn at different speeds
and confuse the heck out of everything.

Most likely causing damage.

What the heck does AWD have to do with it anyway?
All decent cars have stability control (and have had them
for a decade or more).

Mine, for example, is a dozen years old and it has DSC, and,
all cars, by law, I think nowadays, have stability control.

Not yet - but next year. And ALL cars with dynamic stability control
tell you you need to have all tires matching.

But what the heck - it's your car. Drive with 4 different sized tires
and pay your repair bills.

When differential gets busted.

So, what's different about a Subaru (except the marketing
team wants you to "think" they're "special").

One hint Subaru system does not have power torque. Ever driven xDrive?
That is BMW system.
Try it once and experience power torque. Jeeps too. Ever do off-roading?
Some times ignorance is even dangerous.

On Tue, 8 Dec 2015 14:11:17 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 12/7/2015 11:38 PM, Danny D. wrote:
clare wrote, on Mon, 07 Dec 2015 21:52:49 -0500:

What's the difference between a Bimmer and a Beemer????

Big difference.
Anyone saying the wrong word is an idiot poser.


Here is a decent description:
http://www.boston-bmwcca.org/referen...er-beemer.aspx

BTW, it doesn't matter what *you* (or I) think; it matters that anyone
who knows anything about bimmers or beemers know this, and anyone who
knows absolutely nothing about bimmers or beemers doesn't know this.


Truth is, most of us don't give a damn. 90% of the owners are snobs no
matter what you call a BMW.
What's the difference between a BMW and a Porcupine??

On Tue, 8 Dec 2015 20:54:46 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

Ed Pawlowski wrote, on Tue, 08 Dec 2015 14:11:17 -0500:

Truth is, most of us don't give a damn.
90% of the owners are snobs no matter what you call a BMW.

That you don't give a damn is perfectly acceptable.
That you think BMW owners are all snobs, is just as acceptable.

I was just answering the question because someone asked what the
difference was between a bimmer and a beemer (and, anyone who
knows the least bit about them, already knows the difference).

Once I answered the question, we should have been done with
this discussion.

If, after being told the simple answer, they *still* want to
call it the wrong thing, then that's up to them. Not me.

If they want to call a tire a wheel, who am I to argue with them?
If they want to call a nail a screw, who am I to argue with them?
If they want to call a wheelcover a hubcap, who am I to argue with them?
etc.

I was simply answering the question.
It is a BMW whether it has 2 wheels or 4. Bimmer or Beemer are both
just *******izations of the same name. You want to think there is a
difference, go right ahead., If a Boston Beaner says Bimmer it'll come
out Beemer anyway.

wrote:
On Tue, 8 Dec 2015 04:30:55 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

clare wrote, on Mon, 07 Dec 2015 21:11:02 -0500:

Get that on the front of a twitchy little sedam like a BMW320 with
only a static ballance, and your hands will get a good massage from
the steering wheel, even if the bumper doesn't jump.

I fully and completely understand.
But, at least in my ONE (single!) test of 5 tires on 5 rims, it didn't happen.
You didn't need 1.5 oz to static and 4 to dynamic balance - so you
got lucky. (and you haven't had all 5 on the front yet either - you
might still get a surpeise!!

I just shake my head. I thought Bimmer drivers are some intelligent
people who understand basics of vehicle. When you mount tires you
rotate tires on the wheel to minimize the use of balancing weight.