The power went out today, as expected (it goes out in almost every good storm),
but, what was unexpected was that the Generac 8KW generator didn't kick in.
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7488/1...ff47f371_b.jpg

I had to manually flip the power switch a few times, from auto to manual to off
and back (even though it was on auto all the time and the battery was charged
as evidenced by a 3.8VDC check on the side panel) and there is plenty of
propane in the 500 gallon propane tank. I flipped the breaker a few times.
I pulled the fuse and it looked good.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8679/1...86fb0b88_b.jpg

Everything looked ok electrically, and, after a few flips of the switch,
it turned on. Recently on its weekly charging cycle, it had been turning
off and on after only a few seconds, so, that's probably related.

While the Generac not starting is one problem, the other oddity was that,
once started, and seemingly running full force, the transfer switch(s)
inside the garage were clicking for about five or ten minutes and then
stopped clicking.
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7505/1...1ae182de_b.jpg

I opened the panels, but by the time I opened them, the clicking had
stopped.
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7508/1...a2d214de_b.jpg

I took a video of the clicking, but I'm not sure where to upload
the movie (it's a 24MB MOV file from an iPad) if needed. Here is
a closeup of each panel - which seems to have a big solenoid inside:
Left: https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7522/1...0301e7ec_c.jpg
Right: https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7525/1...e9eca41d_c.jpg

I'm guessing that the propane generator wasn't up to speed at first,
for whatever reason, and that the voltage wasn't as high as it needed
to keep the solenoids down, so, they were clicking? But I never heard
that clicking before, and, the lights were running as soon as the
generator kicked in.

Any debugging suggestions?

On Friday, December 12, 2014 2:12:39 AM UTC-5, Danny D. wrote:
The power went out today, as expected (it goes out in almost every good storm),
but, what was unexpected was that the Generac 8KW generator didn't kick in.
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7488/1...ff47f371_b.jpg

I had to manually flip the power switch a few times, from auto to manual to off
and back (even though it was on auto all the time and the battery was charged
as evidenced by a 3.8VDC check on the side panel) and there is plenty of
propane in the 500 gallon propane tank. I flipped the breaker a few times.
I pulled the fuse and it looked good.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8679/1...86fb0b88_b.jpg

Everything looked ok electrically, and, after a few flips of the switch,
it turned on. Recently on its weekly charging cycle, it had been turning
off and on after only a few seconds, so, that's probably related.

While the Generac not starting is one problem, the other oddity was that,
once started, and seemingly running full force, the transfer switch(s)
inside the garage were clicking for about five or ten minutes and then
stopped clicking.
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7505/1...1ae182de_b.jpg

I opened the panels, but by the time I opened them, the clicking had
stopped.
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7508/1...a2d214de_b.jpg


What was going on with the power to the house while this clicking
was going on? Lights going on and off?





I took a video of the clicking, but I'm not sure where to upload
the movie (it's a 24MB MOV file from an iPad) if needed. Here is
a closeup of each panel - which seems to have a big solenoid inside:
Left: https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7522/1...0301e7ec_c.jpg
Right: https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7525/1...e9eca41d_c.jpg

I'm guessing that the propane generator wasn't up to speed at first,
for whatever reason, and that the voltage wasn't as high as it needed
to keep the solenoids down, so, they were clicking?

It's possible it's RPM related. They have control electronics
that presumably look for certain conditions to be present, eg correct
voltage, before putting it online.



But I never heard
that clicking before, and, the lights were running as soon as the
generator kicked in.

Any debugging suggestions?

I guess that answers the question about the lights, sounds like
they were on the whole time.

Any possibility the utility power was intermittent, coming back
sporadically? If what you were hearing was the main power relay's
moving, I don't see how you could have clicking and uninterrupted
lights.

For what it's worth, I did some digging into about a 5 year old Generac
that I got for free, to try to resurrect it. The company that had
sold/installed it said it was shot and not worth fixing. This was
just used for house standby here where the power rarely goes out for
more than 15 mins. After I read the many
horror stories on reviews at Amazon, I concluded that I wouldn't buy
one, wouldn't rely on one, and that it wasn't worth putting the
money into the free one. At a minimum, the rotor was shot, possibly the
stator too. So, if I had one that's going, I'd put some money into it,
but before I put a lot into it, I'd go look at those reviews.

On 12/12/2014 2:12 AM, Danny D. wrote:

Any debugging suggestions?


1) Start with the basics. Change the oil, make sure
the unit is clean and free of dust and debris.

2) Look for online forums. And read any paper work
you have with the machine. Might be able to get
the manual from the web site in pdf.

When my Mom's garage door opener didn't work right,
I found the manual Dad had tucked in behind. Sure
enough, that had the trouble shooting and helped me
to fix the problem.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

trader_4 wrote, on Fri, 12 Dec 2014 05:02:13 -0800:

What was going on with the power to the house while this clicking
was going on? Lights going on and off?

I was in the garage that whole time, and the fluorescent lights in
the garage were not flickering.

I guess that answers the question about the lights, sounds like
they were on the whole time.

What happened were three things:
a) Power flickered on and off and then off and on and then off.
b) Normally, by now, the generator would have kicked in, but it didn't.
c) So the house was dark (which normally never happens)
d) Opening the door, I could hear the neighbors' generators
e) Looking about, I could tell it was a power outage by the
pattern of which houses had generators & which didn't
f) Going outside, I fiddled with the generator (hitting buttons)
g) The generator kicked on and sounded good
h) The lights went on in the house (and stayed on)
i) But the control boxes in the garage were clicking
j) They clicked for five or ten minutes and then stopped clicking
k) The generator stayed on for hours (it's off now, so, PG&E must
have fixed it)

Any possibility the utility power was intermittent, coming back
sporadically? If what you were hearing was the main power relay's
moving, I don't see how you could have clicking and uninterrupted
lights.

The PG&E power "could" have been intermittent (how would I have known?).

I concluded that I wouldn't buy one, wouldn't rely on one, and
that it wasn't worth putting the money into the free one.

I swear by that thing! You have to remember that, here in California,
up in the hills, our power goes out five or six times a year.
Interestingly, we *thought* it was getting better, in that, during
the drought, the power stayed on for months before going out; but,
it has gone out thrice in as many months.

Sometimes we're out for days (the most I've seen is 3 days); but,
most of the time it's only for a half dozen hours. In this case,
the power came on during the night, as it's still dark outside,
but I see lights on the neighbors' houses who don't have generators
and I opened a window and I don't hear my generator.

Normally, I can hear mine (but nobody elses' since mine is loud);
and I can see which neighbors have lights and which don't (during
the night). But last night, I could hear the neighbor's generator,
because mine wasn't running.

Stormin Mormon wrote, on Fri, 12 Dec 2014 08:44:03 -0500:

1) Start with the basics. Change the oil, make sure
the unit is clean and free of dust and debris.

I've never changed the oil, but I doubt that's the problem,
but it's a great idea nonetheless. I'll also take the
battery down to Autozone to have load tested.

It had 536.something hours on the clock when I snapped
that picture of the front panel in the night. I'll look
when it gets light to see how many hours it ran last
night.

2) Look for online forums. And read any paper work
you have with the machine. Might be able to get
the manual from the web site in pdf.

Googling for "Generac model 09067-9 series 8KW HSB"
I didn't find the manual, so, I'm calling them as we type:
http://www.generac.com/service-support 888-436-3722

On 12/12/2014 9:44 AM, Danny D. wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote, on Fri, 12 Dec 2014 08:44:03 -0500:

1) Start with the basics. Change the oil, make sure
the unit is clean and free of dust and debris.

I've never changed the oil, but I doubt that's the problem,
but it's a great idea nonetheless. I'll also take the
battery down to Autozone to have load tested.

It had 536.something hours on the clock when I snapped
that picture of the front panel in the night. I'll look
when it gets light to see how many hours it ran last
night.

2) Look for online forums. And read any paper work
you have with the machine. Might be able to get
the manual from the web site in pdf.

Googling for "Generac model 09067-9 series 8KW HSB"
I didn't find the manual, so, I'm calling them as we type:
http://www.generac.com/service-support 888-436-3722

I think small engines want an oil change every
25 hours or 50, so it's likely over due. I like
Castrol GX, cause it's the one brand that quieted
the rod knock in a truck, I used to have.

Some engines have a low oil shut down DAMHIKT.
That's how I got my first generator, relative
ran one low oil. I'm trying not to let them know
that was the only thing wrong with it. I added
four ounces of oil, and it ran fine. Don't tell
em, please.

Best wishes on the manual. Hope they have good
customer service.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

Danny D. wrote, on Fri, 12 Dec 2014 14:44:02 +0000:

It had 536.something hours on the clock when I snapped
that picture of the front panel in the night. I'll look
when it gets light to see how many hours it ran last
night.

It now has 540(point 0/10s) now, so, the power was out
for four hours last night.

I'm still on the line with Generac.
They'll send me a manual by snail mail & email.

Stormin Mormon wrote, on Fri, 12 Dec 2014 09:52:25 -0500:

Some engines have a low oil shut down DAMHIKT.

That's a good point.
I never *added* oil either!

I'm still on the line with Generac support (they couldn't
find the model at first).

They're sending me "the manual", but I asked them whether it's
1. Owners Manual & Maintenance
2. Parts Manual
3. Wiring Diagram
4. Troubleshooting Guide
5. Service Manual
And, whether it contains the transfer switch information.

can you describe the clicking in mor detail
click every second?
once a minute?
randomly spaced?
Mark

On 12/12/2014 10:05 AM, Danny D. wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote, on Fri, 12 Dec 2014 09:52:25 -0500:

Some engines have a low oil shut down DAMHIKT.

That's a good point.
I never *added* oil either!

I'm still on the line with Generac support (they couldn't
find the model at first).

They're sending me "the manual", but I asked them whether it's
1. Owners Manual & Maintenance
2. Parts Manual
3. Wiring Diagram
4. Troubleshooting Guide
5. Service Manual
And, whether it contains the transfer switch information.


I like our different approaches. You're techie,
and I'm nuts and bolts. Well, mostly bolts.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

makolber wrote, on Fri, 12 Dec 2014 07:09:19 -0800:

can you describe the clicking in mor detail
click every second?
once a minute?
randomly spaced?

I just listened to the 13 second 24MB video that the iPad created.
It's a fast click. Loud and fast. Maybe 3 or 4 clicks a second.
Rapid, then skips a click or two, then rapid again.

I'm trying to upload to flickr, but it's timing out.
(need a good temporary no-registration video upload site)

Note: I'm not sure why a puny 13 second video is 25 MB.

Danny D. wrote, on Fri, 12 Dec 2014 15:19:01 +0000:

I'm trying to upload to flickr, but it's timing out.
(need a good temporary no-registration video upload site)
Note: I'm not sure why a puny 13 second video is 25 MB.

Since Flickr kept timing out on the 25MB 13-second iPad MOV,
I converted it to a 500KB M4V using Handbrake on Linux.

I wasn't sure what format to convert it to, but that seems
to have uploaded to Flickr.

I usually "view source" to find the URL to post for you,
but this HTML source is different than for a photo, so,
let me know if this URL works for you:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/98287134@N02/15382730574

Stormin Mormon wrote, on Fri, 12 Dec 2014 10:18:51 -0500:

I like our different approaches.

I like the advice.

Reading the manual, I see that the leading zero is what threw
off the customer support lady (Rachell).

The file is "9067-9.pdf" and it's called "Manual No. 98374",
titled "Generac II Emergency Power Systems Owner's Manual"
"Revision 0 (11/22/95)".

As you had accurately surmised, it has a low oil pressure
switch cutoff at 8-12psi and and a high-oil temperature
cutoff switch at 284 degrees F.

It's a 570cc engine of 19HP at 3,600RPM with a solid-state
ignition, and Champion R12YC plugs. The oil filter is a
Fram PH-3614, and it takes 1.5 US quarts of 10W30 motor
oil.

You were right that the oil should be changed every 50
hours, so, I have some 'splaining to do since I have never
changed it. Obviously that's my first task of the day, after
I pick up the filter.

On 12/12/2014 2:12 AM, Danny D. wrote:
The power went out today, as expected (it goes out in almost every good storm),
but, what was unexpected was that the Generac 8KW generator didn't kick in.
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7488/1...ff47f371_b.jpg

I had to manually flip the power switch a few times, from auto to manual to off
and back (even though it was on auto all the time and the battery was charged
as evidenced by a 3.8VDC check on the side panel) and there is plenty of
propane in the 500 gallon propane tank. I flipped the breaker a few times.
I pulled the fuse and it looked good.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8679/1...86fb0b88_b.jpg

Everything looked ok electrically, and, after a few flips of the switch,
it turned on. Recently on its weekly charging cycle, it had been turning
off and on after only a few seconds, so, that's probably related.

While the Generac not starting is one problem, the other oddity was that,
once started, and seemingly running full force, the transfer switch(s)
inside the garage were clicking for about five or ten minutes and then
stopped clicking.
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7505/1...1ae182de_b.jpg

I opened the panels, but by the time I opened them, the clicking had
stopped.
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7508/1...a2d214de_b.jpg

I took a video of the clicking, but I'm not sure where to upload
the movie (it's a 24MB MOV file from an iPad) if needed. Here is
a closeup of each panel - which seems to have a big solenoid inside:
Left: https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7522/1...0301e7ec_c.jpg
Right: https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7525/1...e9eca41d_c.jpg

I'm guessing that the propane generator wasn't up to speed at first,
for whatever reason, and that the voltage wasn't as high as it needed
to keep the solenoids down, so, they were clicking? But I never heard
that clicking before, and, the lights were running as soon as the
generator ki




Danny,
There is a forum devoted to Generac service and attended regularly by
many Generac technicians. I am guessing you may have a leaking rubber
bellows connecting the air filter chamber to the carburetor, a common
problem, causing poor fuel/air ratio and rough starting and stalling, etc.

Good luck!
Smarty

See the website:

http://www.zillerelectric.com/forums...splay.php?f=15

On 12/12/2014 10:43 AM, Danny D. wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote, on Fri, 12 Dec 2014 10:18:51 -0500:

I like our different approaches.

I like the advice.

Reading the manual, I see that the leading zero is what threw
off the customer support lady (Rachell).

The file is "9067-9.pdf" and it's called "Manual No. 98374",
titled "Generac II Emergency Power Systems Owner's Manual"
"Revision 0 (11/22/95)".

As you had accurately surmised, it has a low oil pressure
switch cutoff at 8-12psi and and a high-oil temperature
cutoff switch at 284 degrees F.

It's a 570cc engine of 19HP at 3,600RPM with a solid-state
ignition, and Champion R12YC plugs. The oil filter is a
Fram PH-3614, and it takes 1.5 US quarts of 10W30 motor
oil.

You were right that the oil should be changed every 50
hours, so, I have some 'splaining to do since I have never
changed it. Obviously that's my first task of the day, after
I pick up the filter.


we make a good team. Wish I lived closer to you,
love to visit some time. Anyhow, sounds like the
machine can use some "routine" (cough, cough)
maint. I know that my equipment doesn't get maint
on proper intervals. Sigh.

Anyhow, be interesting if this helps. can't hurt,
of course. I'd expect to find the oil drain plug
on the side, about half way back. Way down low.

I'm guessing you'll take pictures and post?

-
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On Friday, December 12, 2014 9:44:25 AM UTC-5, Danny D. wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote, on Fri, 12 Dec 2014 08:44:03 -0500:

1) Start with the basics. Change the oil, make sure
the unit is clean and free of dust and debris.

I've never changed the oil, but I doubt that's the problem,
but it's a great idea nonetheless.

I would think the oil should be changed about once a year,
but I agree an oil change isn't the issue.



I'll also take the
battery down to Autozone to have load tested.

Or just replace it if it's 6+ years old. I think that's what
I would do with a standby generator, as just normal PM.
But again, since it starts and runs, that isn't the problem.

On 12/12/2014 10:49 AM, Smarty wrote:

Danny,
There is a forum devoted to Generac service and attended regularly by
many Generac technicians. I am guessing you may have a leaking rubber
bellows connecting the air filter chamber to the carburetor, a common
problem, causing poor fuel/air ratio and rough starting and stalling, etc.

Good luck!
Smarty

See the website:

http://www.zillerelectric.com/forums...splay.php?f=15


Now, there's a nuts and bolts man. Much like the
bad carb gaskets I've seen over the years.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

Danny D. wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote, on Fri, 12 Dec 2014 10:18:51 -0500:

I like our different approaches.

I like the advice.

Reading the manual, I see that the leading zero is what threw
off the customer support lady (Rachell).

The file is "9067-9.pdf" and it's called "Manual No. 98374",
titled "Generac II Emergency Power Systems Owner's Manual"
"Revision 0 (11/22/95)".

As you had accurately surmised, it has a low oil pressure
switch cutoff at 8-12psi and and a high-oil temperature
cutoff switch at 284 degrees F.

It's a 570cc engine of 19HP at 3,600RPM with a solid-state
ignition, and Champion R12YC plugs. The oil filter is a
Fram PH-3614, and it takes 1.5 US quarts of 10W30 motor
oil.

You were right that the oil should be changed every 50
hours, so, I have some 'splaining to do since I have never
changed it. Obviously that's my first task of the day, after
I pick up the filter.

Get a Wix filter , they're the best in the business - Fram is crap . A
bunch of the guys on the Sportster email list cut a bunch of filters up and
analyzed the type/quantity/quality of the components . Wix came out on top ,
and I've never used anything else since . FWIW , NAPA Gold filters are made
by Wix .

--
Snag

Stormin Mormon wrote, on Fri, 12 Dec 2014 10:51:42 -0500:

I'm guessing you'll take pictures and post?

Yes, we'd make a good team (I was always on sports as a kid
and always a good team member).

As for the pictures, the clicking of the transfer switch
caught me offguard (i.e., sans camera), so I was only able
to get a 15 second video of the sound:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/98287134@N02/15382730574/

I sent the video to Generac support, but they (predictably)
said they couldn't diagnose over email and offered to send
me to an authorized dealer.

Their manual is pretty bad, and must contain errors, as the
spark plug they suggest doesn't even exist:
Champion R12YC (there is no asterisk explanation either)
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7555/1...f881a281_b.jpg

Same with the oil, as the SAE340 grade doesn't exist either.
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7487/1...7f552489_b.jpg

Similarly, what the heck is an "oil makeup tank"?
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7487/1...7f552489_b.jpg

I suspect all three are mistakes - but - it's a bummer having to
guess (I'm guessing RC12YC, SAE30, and that there is no such
thing as an "oil makeup tank", which doesn't show on any of the
exploded diagrams).

Terry Coombs wrote, on Fri, 12 Dec 2014 11:40:24 -0600:

Get a Wix filter , they're the best in the business - Fram is crap . A
bunch of the guys on the Sportster email list cut a bunch of filters up and
analyzed the type/quantity/quality of the components . Wix came out on top ,
and I've never used anything else since . FWIW , NAPA Gold filters are made
by Wix .

I'm sorry didn't see this until I came back from the store.

I bought the Bosch 3330 filter instead:
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8583/1...9dc07783_b.jpg

And I had to guess which spark plug to use, so I guessed that they
didn't mean R12YC but perhaps they had meant RC12YC?

trader_4 wrote, on Fri, 12 Dec 2014 08:10:22 -0800:

I would think the oil should be changed about once a year,
but I agree an oil change isn't the issue.

The manual says 50 hours in one place and every 100 hours
in another. The generator has over 500 hours, but, I didn't
put it all on (I don't remember how much I put on).

So, my plan is to give it a "tuneup", whatever that means to
a propane generator:

1. Battery tested at Autzone for voltage under load,
2. New spark plug (Champion RC12YC I think)
3. Oil change & oil filter
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8583/1...9dc07783_b.jpg

Danny D. wrote:
Terry Coombs wrote, on Fri, 12 Dec 2014 11:40:24 -0600:

Get a Wix filter , they're the best in the business - Fram is crap
. A bunch of the guys on the Sportster email list cut a bunch of
filters up and analyzed the type/quantity/quality of the components
. Wix came out on top , and I've never used anything else since .
FWIW , NAPA Gold filters are made by Wix .

I'm sorry didn't see this until I came back from the store.

I bought the Bosch 3330 filter instead:
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8583/1...9dc07783_b.jpg

And I had to guess which spark plug to use, so I guessed that they
didn't mean R12YC but perhaps they had meant RC12YC?

Bosch are good too , I'd run one if Wix were unavailable . I'm not sure
about your spark plug , but i know my Harley runs an RN12YC . There are
charts online of what all the numbers and letters mean ...

--
Snag

Terry Coombs wrote, on Fri, 12 Dec 2014 17:57:34 -0600:

And I had to guess which spark plug to use, so I guessed that they
didn't mean R12YC but perhaps they had meant RC12YC?
about your spark plug , but i know my Harley runs an RN12YC . There are
charts online of what all the numbers and letters mean ...

Oh, we spent more than 45 minutes trying to find a RC12YC.
The auto parts guy looked in every cross reference he had.
We googled it on my iPad.
And we even called Generac from the store (which is what took
most of the 45 minutes).

Generac has no clue but they said it 'could' be a typo.
All we know is that the R12YC doesn't exist.

The one good thing that came of the multiple calls to Generac
support was that each person told us something different, which
allowed us to figure out that there is no such thing as the
"oil makeup tank" and that the "SAE340" was a typo.

We now have "revision 1" of the manual, which still says to use
the spark plug which doesn't exist though.

Anyway, I'll pull and compare spark plugs (not that this will
be an exact test but if it's way off, I should be able to see
that as long as it's not off internally).

"Danny D." wrote in news:m6f115$e8o$5@dont-
email.me:

makolber wrote, on Fri, 12 Dec 2014 07:09:19 -0800:

can you describe the clicking in mor detail
click every second?
once a minute?
randomly spaced?

I just listened to the 13 second 24MB video that the iPad created.
It's a fast click. Loud and fast. Maybe 3 or 4 clicks a second.
Rapid, then skips a click or two, then rapid again.

I'm trying to upload to flickr, but it's timing out.
(need a good temporary no-registration video upload site)

Note: I'm not sure why a puny 13 second video is 25 MB.


Can you describe the "click" itself? Was it like metal tapping metal; or
more like a "thumping"?

On Friday, December 12, 2014 4:43:45 PM UTC-5, Danny D. wrote:
trader_4 wrote, on Fri, 12 Dec 2014 08:10:22 -0800:

I would think the oil should be changed about once a year,
but I agree an oil change isn't the issue.

The manual says 50 hours in one place and every 100 hours
in another. The generator has over 500 hours, but, I didn't
put it all on (I don't remember how much I put on).


100 hours sounds about right. When I said once a year, I was
thinking that few of these home generators are going to run
enough in a year to reach an hour based number.
It should probably be changed once
a year anyway, regardless of usage. It starts up once a week as
a test and runs for like 10 mins, right? Doing that, sitting
outdoors, probably gets condensation into the oil, so changing it
once a year or so is probably a good idea.

On Friday, December 12, 2014 4:27:35 PM UTC-5, Danny D. wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote, on Fri, 12 Dec 2014 10:51:42 -0500:

I'm guessing you'll take pictures and post?

Yes, we'd make a good team (I was always on sports as a kid
and always a good team member).

As for the pictures, the clicking of the transfer switch
caught me offguard (i.e., sans camera), so I was only able
to get a 15 second video of the sound:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/98287134@N02/15382730574/

I sent the video to Generac support, but they (predictably)
said they couldn't diagnose over email and offered to send
me to an authorized dealer.

Their manual is pretty bad, and must contain errors, as the
spark plug they suggest doesn't even exist:
Champion R12YC (there is no asterisk explanation either)
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7555/1...f881a281_b.jpg

Same with the oil, as the SAE340 grade doesn't exist either.
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7487/1...7f552489_b.jpg

Similarly, what the heck is an "oil makeup tank"?
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7487/1...7f552489_b.jpg


That would be an oil holding tank that is in addition to whatever oil
is in the engine crankcase. Some cars use that system, Harley's, etc.

trader_4 wrote, on Sat, 13 Dec 2014 03:56:58 -0800:

It starts up once a week as
a test and runs for like 10 mins, right?

Yes. Ostensibly that's to charge the battery.

Zak W wrote, on Sat, 13 Dec 2014 11:16:52 +0000:

Can you describe the "click" itself? Was it like metal tapping metal; or
more like a "thumping"?

Here is a video of the clicking sounds:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/98287134@N02/15382730574/

Here's what is inside the transfer cases:
Left: https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7522/1...0301e7ec_c.jpg
Right: https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7525/1...e9eca41d_c.jpg

On 12/12/2014 7:42 PM, Danny D. wrote:

Generac has no clue but they said it 'could' be a typo.
All we know is that the R12YC doesn't exist.


Oddly, I have an old Champion catalog. No
such plug that I could find. Wish I was
more help.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

Stormin Mormon wrote, on Sat, 13 Dec 2014 09:22:12 -0500:

Oddly, I have an old Champion catalog. No
such plug that I could find. Wish I was
more help.

Thanks for checking that out.
I have the newer manual from Generac (rev 1 instead of rev 0),
which corrects two of the three errors - but still specifies
the non-existent spark plug.

I'm pretty sure that the plug designation is a typo, but,
when I pull the old one, I'll know for sure so I'll let you
know.

Thanks for looking it up for me.

On 12/13/2014 10:48 AM, Danny D. wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote, on Sat, 13 Dec 2014 09:22:12 -0500:

Oddly, I have an old Champion catalog. No
such plug that I could find. Wish I was
more help.

Thanks for checking that out.
I have the newer manual from Generac (rev 1 instead of rev 0),
which corrects two of the three errors - but still specifies
the non-existent spark plug.

I'm pretty sure that the plug designation is a typo, but,
when I pull the old one, I'll know for sure so I'll let you
know.

Thanks for looking it up for me.

"Oh, that one? I threw away four
of them last week...."

I do have some old plugs. My guess, it's
fairly close to some thing that's for
sale near you.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 12/13/2014 9:22 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 12/12/2014 7:42 PM, Danny D. wrote:

Generac has no clue but they said it 'could' be a typo.
All we know is that the R12YC doesn't exist.


Oddly, I have an old Champion catalog. No
such plug that I could find. Wish I was
more help.

Generac sells a service kit for each generator including spark plug, oil
filter, and air filter. Just buy it and save yourself (and everybody
else) a lot of confusion.

Smarty wrote, on Sat, 13 Dec 2014 11:09:46 -0500:

Generac sells a service kit for each generator including spark plug, oil
filter, and air filter. Just buy it and save yourself (and everybody
else) a lot of confusion.

I didn't know about that, and, certainly Generac support didn't
volunteer that information, particularly when I asked about the oil
and the plug.

But, at this point, I think I'm fine:
a) The oil filter appears to be correct,
b) The spark plug will be compared to the old one
c) The oil is just plain old motor oil (SAE & API notwithstanding)
d) The air filter appears to be a serviceable filter (cleanable)

I'll snap pictures, hopefully later today, as it's not currently raining.

On Sat, 13 Dec 2014 09:22:12 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 12/12/2014 7:42 PM, Danny D. wrote:

Generac has no clue but they said it 'could' be a typo.
All we know is that the R12YC doesn't exist.


Oddly, I have an old Champion catalog. No
such plug that I could find. Wish I was
more help.
It will in lall likelyhood be an RJ12yc - or perhaps an RN12c
The R means resistor, the N is 14mm 3/4" long thread, while a J is
14mm 3/8 in long thread, both with 13/16" hex head. An N can be
replaced with a C or R, with 5/8, 3/4, or 5/8 inch hex.
So yes, an R12Yc plug DOES exist (or has in the past). It is a non
reisistor 14mmX3/4" thread projected nose copper core plug. with a 3/4
or 11/16" hex head. - which in MOST cases can be replaced with either
an N12yc or RN12yc plug assuming there is a big enough "plug well" to
get a 13/16" plug socket onto the plug.

In article ,
"Danny D." wrote:

The file is "9067-9.pdf" and it's called "Manual No. 98374",
titled "Generac II Emergency Power Systems Owner's Manual"
"Revision 0 (11/22/95)".

Danny D.-

I happen to have a pdf copy of that manual. the spark plug is
illustrated on page 24, item 52. According to the parts list on page
27, it is part number 72347, "D" Spark Plug.

Searching for 72347GS, it is apparently no longer available. I found
two sites that crossed it to part number 491055S. Sears PartsDirect
crosses that to RC12YC.

With regard to the oil change interval, many generators have a short
"break in" interval for the first oil change, then a longer interval
after that. Once you get it running, consider running it on fresh oil
for 24 hours under some load like a couple electric heaters. Then
change oil and observe a 100 hour interval after that.

I hope your clicking was just a reaction to low oil. If not, you may
also find help at http://www.smokstak.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=90.

Fred

On 12/13/2014 11:17 AM, Danny D. wrote:
Smarty wrote, on Sat, 13 Dec 2014 11:09:46 -0500:

Generac sells a service kit for each generator including spark plug, oil
filter, and air filter. Just buy it and save yourself (and everybody
else) a lot of confusion.
I didn't know about that, and, certainly Generac support didn't
volunteer that information, particularly when I asked about the oil
and the plug.

But, at this point, I think I'm fine:
a) The oil filter appears to be correct,
b) The spark plug will be compared to the old one
c) The oil is just plain old motor oil (SAE & API notwithstanding)
d) The air filter appears to be a serviceable filter (cleanable)
The Generac technicians on the forum I previously cited recommended
synthetic oil, and I therefore have been using Mobil 1 for annual oil
changes since I installed my Generac in 2007. Also I am not aware that
the air filter can be cleaned and re-used as you state above. Suggest
you check both of these items carefully.

On 12/13/2014 11:17 AM, Danny D. wrote:
Smarty wrote, on Sat, 13 Dec 2014 11:09:46 -0500:

Generac sells a service kit for each generator including spark plug, oil
filter, and air filter. Just buy it and save yourself (and everybody
else) a lot of confusion.
I didn't know about that, and, certainly Generac support didn't
volunteer that information, particularly when I asked about the oil
and the plug.

Here is Generac's web pages where the maintenance kits I previously
referred to are sold.

Although the kits are individually priced at around $50, I bought 10 of
them for $260 online to avoid the annual hassle. The plugs come
pre-gapped, the air and oil filters are exact Generac parts, the kit
also contains a funnel and cleaning cloth for oil clean up, and they
even throw in a small spark plug wrench.

Do yourself a favor if you intend to do the proper annual maintenance
yourself and just buy a batch of these kits. It makes the whole process
much simpler.

http://www.generac.com/all-products/...es/home-backup

Hope this helps!
Smarty

Fred McKenzie wrote, on Sat, 13 Dec 2014 15:00:15 -0500:

Searching for 72347GS, it is apparently no longer available. I found
two sites that crossed it to part number 491055S. Sears PartsDirect
crosses that to RC12YC.

Thanks for going the extra mile to help a fellow homeowner!

I wasn't able to get to it today due to a personal issue, but, hopefully
soon.

I replaced the oil and oil filter of the Generac today, and
much to my chagrin, I found out that the engine is a v-twin
which means it needs two sparkplugs!
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7475/1...5119c4c1_b.jpg

Worse yet, I was totally unable to pull out the spark plug wire.
It's either bolted in, or extremely tightly on.
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7538/1...4571e38b_c.jpg

I was pulling with all my strength on the spark plug boots.
It has some spring mechanism, but I was pulling so hard, that
I was afraid I was going to break the wires.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8675/1...72312917_b.jpg

As an aside, some animal has chewed on the high-voltage cables.
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7533/1...95eab7a2_b.jpg

But, the big deal is that I can't get the spark plug cables off,
and I don't want to use super-human force, for obvious reasons.

There must be a trick of some sort ...

Terry Coombs wrote, on Fri, 12 Dec 2014 11:40:24 -0600:

Get a Wix filter , they're the best in the business - Fram is crap .

Interestingly, the filter that was on there was Wix.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8570/1...a4e2fb07_b.jpg

I'm still confused why there are TWO oil filler caps, one of which
is seemingly on the head on top of one of the cylinders:
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8681/1...0ab1d788_b.jpg

It took me a while to realize there was an oil-drain hose, tucked
away *behind* the filter:
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7544/1...1057e677_b.jpg

The really bad news is that nowhere near 1.5 quarts came out:
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7514/1...82feb6ba_c.jpg

So, from the start, the generator was very low on oil:
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7514/1...9fb6228e_b.jpg

Does anyone know why there are *two* oil filler caps?
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8569/1...105db40a_c.jpg