I have been using this electric start generator for about 2 years on
and off, typically once a month. Last time I tried to start it it
sounded like the battery was close to dead, but it was not. It was
very hard to turn. In fact, using the rope it was a killer to get it
started an I managed to do so only a few times. It turns well with the
spark plug removed but very hard with it attached. Too much
compression to turn. I read somewhere that there is a decompression
valve deep in the crankcase. Could it be anything else. Once it runs,
it runs good. But by now, its almost impossible to start.

On Nov 3, 10:30*am, Glia wrote:
I have been using this electric start generator for about 2 years on
and off, typically once a month. Last time I tried to start it it
sounded like the battery was close to dead, but it was not. It was
very hard to turn. In fact, using the rope it was a killer to get it
started an I managed to do so only a few times. It turns well with the
spark plug removed but very hard with it attached. Too much
compression to turn. I read somewhere that there is a decompression
valve deep in the crankcase. Could it be anything else. Once it runs,
it runs good. But by now, its almost impossible to start.

Batteries have to be tested like a cars battery for load to know its
good. What is voltage, try jumping it.

On Nov 3, 10:44*am, ransley wrote:
On Nov 3, 10:30*am, Glia wrote:

I have been using this electric start generator for about 2 years on
and off, typically once a month. Last time I tried to start it it
sounded like the battery was close to dead, but it was not. It was
very hard to turn. In fact, using the rope it was a killer to get it
started an I managed to do so only a few times. It turns well with the
spark plug removed but very hard with it attached. Too much
compression to turn. I read somewhere that there is a decompression
valve deep in the crankcase. Could it be anything else. Once it runs,
it runs good. But by now, its almost impossible to start.

Batteries have to be tested like a cars battery for load to know its
good. What is voltage, try jumping it.

Jumping won't do it. Also, I cannot start it with the pull-start. The
resistance is so high that it will not pull unless I relife the
compression by taking the spark plug out.

Glia wrote:
On Nov 3, 10:44 am, ransley wrote:

On Nov 3, 10:30 am, Glia wrote:


I have been using this electric start generator for about 2 years on
and off, typically once a month. Last time I tried to start it it
sounded like the battery was close to dead, but it was not. It was
very hard to turn. In fact, using the rope it was a killer to get it
started an I managed to do so only a few times. It turns well with the
spark plug removed but very hard with it attached. Too much
compression to turn. I read somewhere that there is a decompression
valve deep in the crankcase. Could it be anything else. Once it runs,
it runs good. But by now, its almost impossible to start.

Batteries have to be tested like a cars battery for load to know its
good. What is voltage, try jumping it.


Jumping won't do it. Also, I cannot start it with the pull-start. The
resistance is so high that it will not pull unless I relife the
compression by taking the spark plug out.


Can be caused by "hydraulic lock" if raw fuel is getting into the
cylinder (aka flooding) during periods of shutdown.

Jim

On Nov 3, 1:04*pm, Glia wrote:
On Nov 3, 10:44*am, ransley wrote:

On Nov 3, 10:30*am, Glia wrote:

I have been using this electric start generator for about 2 years on
and off, typically once a month. Last time I tried to start it it
sounded like the battery was close to dead, but it was not. It was
very hard to turn. In fact, using the rope it was a killer to get it
started an I managed to do so only a few times. It turns well with the
spark plug removed but very hard with it attached. Too much
compression to turn. I read somewhere that there is a decompression
valve deep in the crankcase. Could it be anything else. Once it runs,
it runs good. But by now, its almost impossible to start.

Batteries have to be tested like a cars battery for load to know its
good. What is voltage, try jumping it.

Jumping won't do it. Also, I cannot start it with the pull-start. The
resistance is so high that it will not pull unless I relife the
compression by taking the spark plug out.

Why wont a car battery jump it, I jump my generac. I saw one with
stuck float, it flooded the motor with gas so bad gas shot out 15ft
when we removed the spark plug, if oil level is high and stinks like
gas its possible, then the oil is no good. Do you use the fuel shutoff
valve when not in use. Unless the battery was plugged into the
maintener for 2 years its likely trash.

"Speedy Jim" wrote in message
...
Glia wrote:
On Nov 3, 10:44 am, ransley wrote:

On Nov 3, 10:30 am, Glia wrote:




Can be caused by "hydraulic lock" if raw fuel is getting into the
cylinder (aka flooding) during periods of shutdown.

Jim

If it is "hydraulic lock" it should clear after taking out spark plug,
turning over a few times, and reinstalling spark plug. Have you tried this?
I'll assume its still hard to turn over once sparkplug has gone back in.

Have you tried removing the electrical load? That should make it turn over
easier, perhaps even easy enough so you could live with a bad decompression
valve (if that's what the problem is).

Dan

On Nov 3, 1:38*pm, "Dan Kuechle" wrote:
"Speedy Jim" wrote in message

...

Glia wrote:
On Nov 3, 10:44 am, ransley wrote:

On Nov 3, 10:30 am, Glia wrote:

Can be caused by "hydraulic lock" if raw fuel is getting into the
cylinder (aka flooding) during periods of shutdown.

Jim

If it is "hydraulic lock" it should clear after taking out spark plug,
turning over a few times, and reinstalling spark plug. *Have you tried this?
I'll assume its still hard to turn over once sparkplug has gone back in.

Have you tried removing the electrical load? *That should make it turn over
easier, perhaps even easy enough so you could live with a bad decompression
valve (if that's what the problem is).

Dan

Dan:
I am trying to start without any electric load connected is that is
what you refer to. Is there a way to disengage the actual coil from
the generator? I can turn the flywheel when I remove the pullstart
relatively easily when the spark plug is removed. So of course does
the starter motor. However, when I put the spark-plug back in it is
next to impossible to turn either using the motor that locks up or by
pulling on the string like a mad-man.
Harry

On Nov 3, 4:20*pm, Claude Hopper
wrote:
Glia wrote:
I have been using this electric start generator for about 2 years on
and off, typically once a month. Last time I tried to start it it
sounded like the battery was close to dead, but it was not. It was
very hard to turn. In fact, using the rope it was a killer to get it
started an I managed to do so only a few times. It turns well with the
spark plug removed but very hard with it attached. Too much
compression to turn. I read somewhere that there is a decompression
valve deep in the crankcase. Could it be anything else. Once it runs,
it runs good. But by now, its almost impossible to start.

Your compression relief valve is not working.

--
Claude Hopper * * * * *

? * * * ? * * * ¥

How hard is this to fix? Is this in the crankcase and requires
complete disassembly?

Glia wrote:

On Nov 3, 4:20 pm, Claude Hopper
wrote:

Glia wrote:

I have been using this electric start generator for about 2 years on
and off, typically once a month. Last time I tried to start it it
sounded like the battery was close to dead, but it was not. It was
very hard to turn. In fact, using the rope it was a killer to get it
started an I managed to do so only a few times. It turns well with the
spark plug removed but very hard with it attached. Too much
compression to turn. I read somewhere that there is a decompression
valve deep in the crankcase. Could it be anything else. Once it runs,
it runs good. But by now, its almost impossible to start.

Your compression relief valve is not working.

--
Claude Hopper

? ? ¥


How hard is this to fix? Is this in the crankcase and requires
complete disassembly?


Disclaimer: I'm not familiar with your engine, but Claude may well be
right.


May not represent your specific engine but
there is a .pdf of the assembly he
http://www.gen-parts.com/pdf2/0D1752.pdf
page 2.3-7
(53)

Jim

On Nov 3, 5:34*pm, Glia wrote:
On Nov 3, 4:20*pm, Claude Hopper
wrote:





Glia wrote:
I have been using this electric start generator for about 2 years on
and off, typically once a month. Last time I tried to start it it
sounded like the battery was close to dead, but it was not. It was
very hard to turn. In fact, using the rope it was a killer to get it
started an I managed to do so only a few times. It turns well with the
spark plug removed but very hard with it attached. Too much
compression to turn. I read somewhere that there is a decompression
valve deep in the crankcase. Could it be anything else. Once it runs,
it runs good. But by now, its almost impossible to start.

Your compression relief valve is not working.

--
Claude Hopper * * * * *

? * * * ? * * * ¥

How hard is this to fix? Is this in the crankcase and requires
complete disassembly?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I had a generac 5500 and have a generac 7500 exl, neither that I know
have compression relief, What you are doing makes no sence to me, You
say you cant jump the starter, well you can, sure the rope is hard to
pull but ive done it, whats wrong with the starter, the battery is
likely shot, jump it. Its direct drive to the gen.

What others are hinting: Remove the spark plug, and then give a couple yanks
on the pull rope. See if any gasoline or oil sprays out of the spark plug
hole. It's possible liquid is getting into the cylinder. After three or four
yanks, put the spark plug back in, and see if it pulls easier.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Glia" wrote in message
...

Dan:
I am trying to start without any electric load connected is that is
what you refer to. Is there a way to disengage the actual coil from
the generator? I can turn the flywheel when I remove the pullstart
relatively easily when the spark plug is removed. So of course does
the starter motor. However, when I put the spark-plug back in it is
next to impossible to turn either using the motor that locks up or by
pulling on the string like a mad-man.
Harry

The compression relief is a small assembly which pushes open the exhaust
valve very briefly during the compression stroke. There is some kind of
centrifugal sensor, so it only works under some RPM. Been a long time since
I've serviced one of these. Yes, the compression release is in the
crankcase. And you have to do a lot of disassembly to get at it. The
compression release doesn't work if you turn the engine backwards. Makes me
wonder if the rope is wound wrong. No, come to think of it, the ball clutch
wouldn't let you do that.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Glia" wrote in message
...

How hard is this to fix? Is this in the crankcase and requires
complete disassembly?

On Nov 4, 7:12*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
The compression relief is a small assembly which pushes open the exhaust
valve very briefly during the compression stroke. There is some kind of
centrifugal sensor, so it only works under some RPM. Been a long time since
I've serviced one of these. Yes, the compression release is in the
crankcase. And you have to do a lot of disassembly to get at it. *The
compression release doesn't work if you turn the engine backwards. Makes me
wonder if the rope is wound wrong. No, come to think of it, the ball clutch
wouldn't let you do that.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

"Glia" wrote in message

...

How hard is this to fix? Is this in the crankcase and requires
complete disassembly?

One more shot at the situation:
1. Pullstart comes to a screeting halt because of compression. With
lots of pull one can move it further but not with enough speed to
start.
2. Jump start from car works albeit with the engine running on the car
the lights dim thats how much the starter needs to draw. It too stalls
on every other attempt because it is to darn hard to move.

3. Spark plug removed, the crank moves easily and there is no oil or
anything coming out of the cylinder.
4. Once the unit starts, it runs fine. So there must be something that
makes turning the crank hard just during startup.

Glia wrote:
One more shot at the situation:
1. Pullstart comes to a screeting halt because of compression. With
lots of pull one can move it further but not with enough speed to
start.
2. Jump start from car works albeit with the engine running on the car
the lights dim thats how much the starter needs to draw. It too stalls
on every other attempt because it is to darn hard to move.

3. Spark plug removed, the crank moves easily and there is no oil or
anything coming out of the cylinder.
4. Once the unit starts, it runs fine. So there must be something that
makes turning the crank hard just during startup.

You've been told what the problem is. You've been told that it's very
difficult to get to. It's obviously way over your head to fix it
yourself. Take the generator and pay to have it serviced.

On Nov 4, 9:10*am, Glia wrote:
On Nov 4, 7:12*am, "Stormin Mormon"





wrote:
The compression relief is a small assembly which pushes open the exhaust
valve very briefly during the compression stroke. There is some kind of
centrifugal sensor, so it only works under some RPM. Been a long time since
I've serviced one of these. Yes, the compression release is in the
crankcase. And you have to do a lot of disassembly to get at it. *The
compression release doesn't work if you turn the engine backwards. Makes me
wonder if the rope is wound wrong. No, come to think of it, the ball clutch
wouldn't let you do that.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

"Glia" wrote in message

....

How hard is this to fix? Is this in the crankcase and requires
complete disassembly?

One more shot at the situation:
1. Pullstart comes to a screeting halt because of compression. With
lots of pull one can move it further but not with enough speed to
start.
2. Jump start from car works albeit with the engine running on the car
the lights dim thats how much the starter needs to draw. It too stalls
on every other attempt because it is to darn hard to move.

3. Spark plug removed, the crank moves easily and there is no oil or
anything coming out of the cylinder.
4. Once the unit starts, it runs fine. So there must be something that
makes turning the crank hard just during startup.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

If it was to hard the gen starter would not start it, would it. Lights
dimming on car are a sign the gen battery is bad, that little starter
can only use so much current, its a single cilinder motor. Mine has no
compression release device.

replying to Glia, Michael Olson wrote:
Check your valve adjustment, if they back off the valves will not open far
enough to allow easy crank. I've seen it on a few, find the adjustments and
remove the valve cover to check them.

--
for full context, visit http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...ms-340069-.htm

On Tue, 27 Sep 2016 02:14:01 +0000
Michael Olson m
wrote:

replying to Glia, Michael Olson wrote:
Check your valve adjustment, if they back off the valves will not
open far enough to allow easy crank. I've seen it on a few, find the
adjustments and remove the valve cover to check them.


The Generac blew up 6 years ago...

On Tuesday, September 27, 2016 at 7:42:18 AM UTC-4, burfordTjustice wrote:
On Tue, 27 Sep 2016 02:14:01 +0000
Michael Olson m
wrote:

replying to Glia, Michael Olson wrote:
Check your valve adjustment, if they back off the valves will not
open far enough to allow easy crank. I've seen it on a few, find the
adjustments and remove the valve cover to check them.


The Generac blew up 6 years ago...

OTOH lately it seems that the old posts from HH are the only actual home repair related posts.

On Tue, 27 Sep 2016 06:34:27 -0700 (PDT), wrote:


The Generac blew up 6 years ago...

OTOH lately it seems that the old posts from HH are the only actual home repair related posts.


I wish I knew a lawyer. I'd like to start a class action lawsuit against
Homeownershub. I never gave them permission to repost anything I post on
usenet, and I doubt any of you have either.

---
Copyright © 2016 Painted Cow, Inc. - All text, images, and other content
of this message are the copyrighted material of Painted Cow, Inc. unless
otherwise noted. Any reproduction or use of this material is forbidden
without the written consent of the owner.

Websites (such as Homeownershub) who reproduce these messages without
permission, WILL BE PROSECUTED!



/) (\
.-._((,~~.))_.-,
`-. @ @ ,-'
/ ,o--o. \
( ( .__. ) )
) `----' (
/ \
/ \
/ \

PAINTED COW

On Tue, 27 Sep 2016 15:46:29 -0400
wrote:

From:
Subject: Generac Generator EXL5500 start problems
Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2016 15:46:29 -0400
Newsgroups: alt.home.repair
Organization: Aioe.org NNTP Server
X-Newsreader: Forte Agent 2.0/32.652

On Tue, 27 Sep 2016 06:34:27 -0700 (PDT), wrote:


The Generac blew up 6 years ago...

OTOH lately it seems that the old posts from HH are the only
actual home repair related posts.


I wish I knew a lawyer. I'd like to start a class action lawsuit
against Homeownershub. I never gave them permission to repost
anything I post on usenet, and I doubt any of you have either.

then don't post in a public forum.

replying to Glia, Jamie wrote:
Hello glia. I had same problem. I drained oil and put sae 30! In and pull
start was a lot easier
I'm working on the electric start issue now. I should replace battery and try
it but for now I'm trying to charge it

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ms-340069-.htm

replying to Glia, Robbie Johnson wrote:
Mines doing the very samething ..did you find the problem

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ms-340069-.htm

replying to Robbie Johnson, Whaler Guy wrote:
My GP5500 had similar symptoms. Not an electric start, but same thing. Almost
concluded it was a bad cam shaft due to the decompression not working
correctly. Local shop suggested I look at the Valve lash adjustment. BINGO!
The exhaust valve was so far off I am amzed it ran. It wasn't allowing the cam
to activate the decompression. Super easy to fix. All you need are some basic
tools and a feeler gauge. I think I set them at .15 and .20. Google Valve
adjustment GP5500 and youll see it.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ms-340069-.htm

replying to Whaler Guy, Jeff Stout wrote:
Same problem with our GP5500, broke the dogs in the pull starter. Used
emergency nylon strap around 2 inch hub, you could pull this boat anchor
around the yard trying to start it. Sad part is Generac lays no claim to this
problem and this problem usually becomes evident at less than 50 hrs of run
time. When you leave a comment on there site there's not response it just
disappears?.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ms-340069-.htm

On Sunday, January 7, 2018 at 2:14:09 PM UTC-5, Jeff Stout wrote:
replying to Whaler Guy, Jeff Stout wrote:
Same problem with our GP5500, broke the dogs in the pull starter. Used
emergency nylon strap around 2 inch hub, you could pull this boat anchor
around the yard trying to start it. Sad part is Generac lays no claim to this
problem and this problem usually becomes evident at less than 50 hrs of run
time. When you leave a comment on there site there's not response it just
disappears?.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ms-340069-.htm

Usually those hard to start problems with small engines that are infrequently
used are due to fouled carbs. Did you take it apart, clean it? You can
find rebuild kits on Ebay for $10, probably a new carb for not a lot too.
I just had that problem with my snowblower. In an hour I had it running.

In article ,
says...

On Sunday, January 7, 2018 at 2:14:09 PM UTC-5, Jeff Stout wrote:
replying to Whaler Guy, Jeff Stout wrote:
Same problem with our GP5500, broke the dogs in the pull starter. Used
emergency nylon strap around 2 inch hub, you could pull this boat anchor
around the yard trying to start it. Sad part is Generac lays no claim to this
problem and this problem usually becomes evident at less than 50 hrs of run
time. When you leave a comment on there site there's not response it just
disappears?.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ms-340069-.htm

Usually those hard to start problems with small engines that are infrequently
used are due to fouled carbs. Did you take it apart, clean it? You can
find rebuild kits on Ebay for $10, probably a new carb for not a lot too.
I just had that problem with my snowblower. In an hour I had it running.


I have had the same hard to start with my 5 kw gen. Take the carb apart
and clean it, then the gen will start with one or two pulls. Let it set
for 2 or 3 months and no start.. I finally drained the tank and let it
run dry, same as some of the other seldom used engines. Now fill it and
it will usually start in 3 or less pulls. Just have to remember to give
it a few minutes to let the carb refill.

On Sun, 7 Jan 2018 20:47:20 -0500, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

In article ,
says...

On Sunday, January 7, 2018 at 2:14:09 PM UTC-5, Jeff Stout wrote:
replying to Whaler Guy, Jeff Stout wrote:
Same problem with our GP5500, broke the dogs in the pull starter. Used
emergency nylon strap around 2 inch hub, you could pull this boat anchor
around the yard trying to start it. Sad part is Generac lays no claim to this
problem and this problem usually becomes evident at less than 50 hrs of run
time. When you leave a comment on there site there's not response it just
disappears?.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ms-340069-.htm

Usually those hard to start problems with small engines that are infrequently
used are due to fouled carbs. Did you take it apart, clean it? You can
find rebuild kits on Ebay for $10, probably a new carb for not a lot too.
I just had that problem with my snowblower. In an hour I had it running.


I have had the same hard to start with my 5 kw gen. Take the carb apart
and clean it, then the gen will start with one or two pulls. Let it set
for 2 or 3 months and no start.. I finally drained the tank and let it
run dry, same as some of the other seldom used engines. Now fill it and
it will usually start in 3 or less pulls. Just have to remember to give
it a few minutes to let the carb refill.

Put a propane kit on it and kiss your gasoline problems goodbye.

On Sunday, January 7, 2018 at 10:07:00 PM UTC-6, wrote:
On Sun, 7 Jan 2018 20:47:20 -0500, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

In article ,
says...

On Sunday, January 7, 2018 at 2:14:09 PM UTC-5, Jeff Stout wrote:
replying to Whaler Guy, Jeff Stout wrote:
Same problem with our GP5500, broke the dogs in the pull starter. Used
emergency nylon strap around 2 inch hub, you could pull this boat anchor
around the yard trying to start it. Sad part is Generac lays no claim to this
problem and this problem usually becomes evident at less than 50 hrs of run
time. When you leave a comment on there site there's not response it just
disappears?.
--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ms-340069-.htm

Usually those hard to start problems with small engines that are infrequently
used are due to fouled carbs. Did you take it apart, clean it? You can
find rebuild kits on Ebay for $10, probably a new carb for not a lot too.
I just had that problem with my snowblower. In an hour I had it running.

I have had the same hard to start with my 5 kw gen. Take the carb apart
and clean it, then the gen will start with one or two pulls. Let it set
for 2 or 3 months and no start.. I finally drained the tank and let it
run dry, same as some of the other seldom used engines. Now fill it and
it will usually start in 3 or less pulls. Just have to remember to give
it a few minutes to let the carb refill.

Put a propane kit on it and kiss your gasoline problems goodbye.


I installed a lot of Generac automatic standby generators running on natural gas for homes and businesses but I modified several portable gensets for customers so they would run on natural gas. I purchased the carb kit from the small engine repair and supply company in town. I also installed a leak-proof quick connect fuel line so it would be easy to hook the genset to the NG line. The fuel pressure regulator had to be adjusted for the particular fuel being used. I seem to recall 11 inches of water column for natural gas. It's been a long time and lots of brain cells have died since then so I don't remember the pressure for propane. I'd have to do a web search. Anyway, the thing about running an engine on NG is that the spark plugs seem to last forever and the engine oil stays clean for a long time. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Generated Monster

On 01/07/2018 11:06 PM, wrote:
Put a propane kit on it and kiss your gasoline problems goodbye.

Enjoy propane while it's pure.Â* The environmental wacko democrats will probably legislate ethanol into propane too.

On Mon, 8 Jan 2018 01:34:37 -0800 (PST), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Sunday, January 7, 2018 at 10:07:00 PM UTC-6, wrote:
On Sun, 7 Jan 2018 20:47:20 -0500, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

In article ,
says...

On Sunday, January 7, 2018 at 2:14:09 PM UTC-5, Jeff Stout wrote:
replying to Whaler Guy, Jeff Stout wrote:
Same problem with our GP5500, broke the dogs in the pull starter. Used
emergency nylon strap around 2 inch hub, you could pull this boat anchor
around the yard trying to start it. Sad part is Generac lays no claim to this
problem and this problem usually becomes evident at less than 50 hrs of run
time. When you leave a comment on there site there's not response it just
disappears?.
--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ms-340069-.htm

Usually those hard to start problems with small engines that are infrequently
used are due to fouled carbs. Did you take it apart, clean it? You can
find rebuild kits on Ebay for $10, probably a new carb for not a lot too.
I just had that problem with my snowblower. In an hour I had it running.

I have had the same hard to start with my 5 kw gen. Take the carb apart
and clean it, then the gen will start with one or two pulls. Let it set
for 2 or 3 months and no start.. I finally drained the tank and let it
run dry, same as some of the other seldom used engines. Now fill it and
it will usually start in 3 or less pulls. Just have to remember to give
it a few minutes to let the carb refill.

Put a propane kit on it and kiss your gasoline problems goodbye.


I installed a lot of Generac automatic standby generators running on natural gas for homes and businesses but I modified several portable gensets for customers so they would run on natural gas. I purchased the carb kit from the small engine repair and supply company in town. I also installed a leak-proof quick connect fuel line so it would be easy to hook the genset to the NG line. The fuel pressure regulator had to be adjusted for the particular fuel being used. I seem to recall 11 inches of water column for natural gas. It's been a long time and lots of brain cells have died since then so I don't remember the pressure for propane. I'd have to do a web search. Anyway, the thing about running an engine on NG is that the spark plugs seem to last forever and the engine oil stays clean for a long time. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Generated Monster


I installed a "motor snorkel" kit on my Chanpion. very simple
tri-fuel conversion allows me to run Gasoline, propane or Natural Gas.
Power on natural gas is down about 14% from gasoline, propane down
less than 5%

On Monday, January 8, 2018 at 12:16:19 PM UTC-6, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Mon, 8 Jan 2018 01:34:37 -0800 (PST), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Sunday, January 7, 2018 at 10:07:00 PM UTC-6, wrote:
On Sun, 7 Jan 2018 20:47:20 -0500, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

In article ,
says...

On Sunday, January 7, 2018 at 2:14:09 PM UTC-5, Jeff Stout wrote:
replying to Whaler Guy, Jeff Stout wrote:
Same problem with our GP5500, broke the dogs in the pull starter. Used
emergency nylon strap around 2 inch hub, you could pull this boat anchor
around the yard trying to start it. Sad part is Generac lays no claim to this
problem and this problem usually becomes evident at less than 50 hrs of run
time. When you leave a comment on there site there's not response it just
disappears?.
--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ms-340069-.htm

Usually those hard to start problems with small engines that are infrequently
used are due to fouled carbs. Did you take it apart, clean it? You can
find rebuild kits on Ebay for $10, probably a new carb for not a lot too.
I just had that problem with my snowblower. In an hour I had it running.

I have had the same hard to start with my 5 kw gen. Take the carb apart
and clean it, then the gen will start with one or two pulls. Let it set
for 2 or 3 months and no start.. I finally drained the tank and let it
run dry, same as some of the other seldom used engines. Now fill it and
it will usually start in 3 or less pulls. Just have to remember to give
it a few minutes to let the carb refill.

Put a propane kit on it and kiss your gasoline problems goodbye.


I installed a lot of Generac automatic standby generators running on natural gas for homes and businesses but I modified several portable gensets for customers so they would run on natural gas. I purchased the carb kit from the small engine repair and supply company in town. I also installed a leak-proof quick connect fuel line so it would be easy to hook the genset to the NG line. The fuel pressure regulator had to be adjusted for the particular fuel being used. I seem to recall 11 inches of water column for natural gas. It's been a long time and lots of brain cells have died since then so I don't remember the pressure for propane. I'd have to do a web search. Anyway, the thing about running an engine on NG is that the spark plugs seem to last forever and the engine oil stays clean for a long time. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Generated Monster

I installed a "motor snorkel" kit on my Chanpion. very simple
tri-fuel conversion allows me to run Gasoline, propane or Natural Gas.
Power on natural gas is down about 14% from gasoline, propane down
less than 5%

Did it install between the existing carb and intake? It's been so long since I installed the dang kits, I don't remember exactly what I did. It was back in the last century. o_O

[8~{} Uncle Forgetful Monster

On Mon, 8 Jan 2018 15:23:05 -0800 (PST), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Monday, January 8, 2018 at 12:16:19 PM UTC-6, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Mon, 8 Jan 2018 01:34:37 -0800 (PST), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Sunday, January 7, 2018 at 10:07:00 PM UTC-6, wrote:
On Sun, 7 Jan 2018 20:47:20 -0500, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

In article ,
says...

On Sunday, January 7, 2018 at 2:14:09 PM UTC-5, Jeff Stout wrote:
replying to Whaler Guy, Jeff Stout wrote:
Same problem with our GP5500, broke the dogs in the pull starter. Used
emergency nylon strap around 2 inch hub, you could pull this boat anchor
around the yard trying to start it. Sad part is Generac lays no claim to this
problem and this problem usually becomes evident at less than 50 hrs of run
time. When you leave a comment on there site there's not response it just
disappears?.
--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ms-340069-.htm

Usually those hard to start problems with small engines that are infrequently
used are due to fouled carbs. Did you take it apart, clean it? You can
find rebuild kits on Ebay for $10, probably a new carb for not a lot too.
I just had that problem with my snowblower. In an hour I had it running.

I have had the same hard to start with my 5 kw gen. Take the carb apart
and clean it, then the gen will start with one or two pulls. Let it set
for 2 or 3 months and no start.. I finally drained the tank and let it
run dry, same as some of the other seldom used engines. Now fill it and
it will usually start in 3 or less pulls. Just have to remember to give
it a few minutes to let the carb refill.

Put a propane kit on it and kiss your gasoline problems goodbye.


I installed a lot of Generac automatic standby generators running on natural gas for homes and businesses but I modified several portable gensets for customers so they would run on natural gas. I purchased the carb kit from the small engine repair and supply company in town. I also installed a leak-proof quick connect fuel line so it would be easy to hook the genset to the NG line. The fuel pressure regulator had to be adjusted for the particular fuel being used. I seem to recall 11 inches of water column for natural gas. It's been a long time and lots of brain cells have died since then so I don't remember the pressure for propane. I'd have to do a web search. Anyway, the thing about running an engine on NG is that the spark plugs seem to last forever and the engine oil stays clean for a long time. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Generated Monster

I installed a "motor snorkel" kit on my Chanpion. very simple
tri-fuel conversion allows me to run Gasoline, propane or Natural Gas.
Power on natural gas is down about 14% from gasoline, propane down
less than 5%

Did it install between the existing carb and intake? It's been so long since I installed the dang kits, I don't remember exactly what I did. It was back in the last century. o_O

[8~{} Uncle Forgetful Monster
No, it installs between the carb and the aircleaner - about the
simplest installation you could immagine, as it's only 2/16 to 1/4
inch thick.

On Monday, January 8, 2018 at 7:11:14 PM UTC-6, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Mon, 8 Jan 2018 15:23:05 -0800 (PST), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Monday, January 8, 2018 at 12:16:19 PM UTC-6, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Mon, 8 Jan 2018 01:34:37 -0800 (PST), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Sunday, January 7, 2018 at 10:07:00 PM UTC-6, wrote:
On Sun, 7 Jan 2018 20:47:20 -0500, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

In article ,
says...

On Sunday, January 7, 2018 at 2:14:09 PM UTC-5, Jeff Stout wrote:
replying to Whaler Guy, Jeff Stout wrote:
Same problem with our GP5500, broke the dogs in the pull starter. Used
emergency nylon strap around 2 inch hub, you could pull this boat anchor
around the yard trying to start it. Sad part is Generac lays no claim to this
problem and this problem usually becomes evident at less than 50 hrs of run
time. When you leave a comment on there site there's not response it just
disappears?.
--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ms-340069-.htm

Usually those hard to start problems with small engines that are infrequently
used are due to fouled carbs. Did you take it apart, clean it? You can
find rebuild kits on Ebay for $10, probably a new carb for not a lot too.
I just had that problem with my snowblower. In an hour I had it running.

I have had the same hard to start with my 5 kw gen. Take the carb apart
and clean it, then the gen will start with one or two pulls. Let it set
for 2 or 3 months and no start.. I finally drained the tank and let it
run dry, same as some of the other seldom used engines. Now fill it and
it will usually start in 3 or less pulls. Just have to remember to give
it a few minutes to let the carb refill.

Put a propane kit on it and kiss your gasoline problems goodbye.


I installed a lot of Generac automatic standby generators running on natural gas for homes and businesses but I modified several portable gensets for customers so they would run on natural gas. I purchased the carb kit from the small engine repair and supply company in town. I also installed a leak-proof quick connect fuel line so it would be easy to hook the genset to the NG line. The fuel pressure regulator had to be adjusted for the particular fuel being used. I seem to recall 11 inches of water column for natural gas. It's been a long time and lots of brain cells have died since then so I don't remember the pressure for propane. I'd have to do a web search. Anyway, the thing about running an engine on NG is that the spark plugs seem to last forever and the engine oil stays clean for a long time. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Generated Monster

I installed a "motor snorkel" kit on my Chanpion. very simple
tri-fuel conversion allows me to run Gasoline, propane or Natural Gas.
Power on natural gas is down about 14% from gasoline, propane down
less than 5%

Did it install between the existing carb and intake? It's been so long since I installed the dang kits, I don't remember exactly what I did. It was back in the last century. o_O

[8~{} Uncle Forgetful Monster
No, it installs between the carb and the aircleaner - about the
simplest installation you could immagine, as it's only 2/16 to 1/4
inch thick.


Oh yeah, it's so the throttle plate controls the fuel flow. I seem to recall something about the regulator not allowing gas to flow until it sensed a vacuum or pressure drop at the mouth of the carb. The last time I installed one of those kits was in the early 1990's. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Carb Monster

On Mon, 08 Jan 2018 20:11:11 -0500, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Mon, 8 Jan 2018 15:23:05 -0800 (PST), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Monday, January 8, 2018 at 12:16:19 PM UTC-6, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Mon, 8 Jan 2018 01:34:37 -0800 (PST), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Sunday, January 7, 2018 at 10:07:00 PM UTC-6, wrote:
On Sun, 7 Jan 2018 20:47:20 -0500, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

In article ,
says...

On Sunday, January 7, 2018 at 2:14:09 PM UTC-5, Jeff Stout wrote:
replying to Whaler Guy, Jeff Stout wrote:
Same problem with our GP5500, broke the dogs in the pull starter. Used
emergency nylon strap around 2 inch hub, you could pull this boat anchor
around the yard trying to start it. Sad part is Generac lays no claim to this
problem and this problem usually becomes evident at less than 50 hrs of run
time. When you leave a comment on there site there's not response it just
disappears?.
--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ms-340069-.htm

Usually those hard to start problems with small engines that are infrequently
used are due to fouled carbs. Did you take it apart, clean it? You can
find rebuild kits on Ebay for $10, probably a new carb for not a lot too.
I just had that problem with my snowblower. In an hour I had it running.

I have had the same hard to start with my 5 kw gen. Take the carb apart
and clean it, then the gen will start with one or two pulls. Let it set
for 2 or 3 months and no start.. I finally drained the tank and let it
run dry, same as some of the other seldom used engines. Now fill it and
it will usually start in 3 or less pulls. Just have to remember to give
it a few minutes to let the carb refill.

Put a propane kit on it and kiss your gasoline problems goodbye.


I installed a lot of Generac automatic standby generators running on natural gas for homes and businesses but I modified several portable gensets for customers so they would run on natural gas. I purchased the carb kit from the small engine repair and supply company in town. I also installed a leak-proof quick connect fuel line so it would be easy to hook the genset to the NG line. The fuel pressure regulator had to be adjusted for the particular fuel being used. I seem to recall 11 inches of water column for natural gas. It's been a long time and lots of brain cells have died since then so I don't remember the pressure for propane. I'd have to do a web search. Anyway, the thing about running an engine on NG is that the spark plugs seem to last forever and the engine oil stays clean for a long time. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Generated Monster

I installed a "motor snorkel" kit on my Chanpion. very simple
tri-fuel conversion allows me to run Gasoline, propane or Natural Gas.
Power on natural gas is down about 14% from gasoline, propane down
less than 5%

Did it install between the existing carb and intake? It's been so long since I installed the dang kits, I don't remember exactly what I did. It was back in the last century. o_O

[8~{} Uncle Forgetful Monster
No, it installs between the carb and the aircleaner - about the
simplest installation you could immagine, as it's only 2/16 to 1/4
inch thick.

Mine is between the carb and the manifold. Gas doesn't flow until it
feels vacuum and you use a primer button to kick it off.
I am not sure about the claim that it produces less power but it
certainly uses more fuel to compensate for the energy in the propane.
I was using a convection oven as a load pulling over 23a (on a 5500w
generator at 230v) and I did not any difference at all between
gasoline and propane running pretty much at the full rated power.
The fuel consumption is a ratio of around 5 to 8+ tho.

On Mon, 08 Jan 2018 22:48:11 -0500, wrote:

No, it installs between the carb and the aircleaner - about the
simplest installation you could immagine, as it's only 2/16 to 1/4
inch thick.

Mine is between the carb and the manifold. Gas doesn't flow until it
feels vacuum and you use a primer button to kick it off.
I am not sure about the claim that it produces less power but it
certainly uses more fuel to compensate for the energy in the propane.
I was using a convection oven as a load pulling over 23a (on a 5500w
generator at 230v) and I did not any difference at all between
gasoline and propane running pretty much at the full rated power.
The fuel consumption is a ratio of around 5 to 8+ tho.

Correction, you are right, it is between the carb and the air cleaner.

No, it installs between the carb and the aircleaner - about the
simplest installation you could immagine, as it's only 2/16 to 1/4
inch thick.


can someone post a link to such an add on device. sounds like a good idea.
mark

On Tuesday, January 9, 2018 at 9:40:58 AM UTC-5, wrote:

No, it installs between the carb and the aircleaner - about the
simplest installation you could immagine, as it's only 2/16 to 1/4
inch thick.


can someone post a link to such an add on device. sounds like a good idea.
mark

Google for tri fuel kit for Briggs stratton, or whatever engine

On Tue, 9 Jan 2018 06:40:49 -0800 (PST), wrote:



No, it installs between the carb and the aircleaner - about the
simplest installation you could immagine, as it's only 2/16 to 1/4
inch thick.


can someone post a link to such an add on device. sounds like a good idea.
mark

I got mine from these guys
They are pretty easy to deal with and the phone support is good.
http://www.uscarburetion.com/

On 01/09/2018 08:40 AM, wrote:


No, it installs between the carb and the aircleaner - about the
simplest installation you could immagine, as it's only 2/16 to 1/4
inch thick.


can someone post a link to such an add on device. sounds like a good idea.
mark

I got mine he http://www.uscarburetion.com/

--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us/

"My husband and I divorced over religious differences. He thought he was
God and I didn't."

On Tue, 9 Jan 2018 06:40:49 -0800 (PST), wrote:



No, it installs between the carb and the aircleaner - about the
simplest installation you could immagine, as it's only 2/16 to 1/4
inch thick.


can someone post a link to such an add on device. sounds like a good idea.
mark
Google motor snorkel. or just go to motorsnorkel.com Do we have to
hold your hand???