Mike Marlow wrote:
Hey Bill - just an idea - why not just go to your local big box store
and bjy a decent table saw blade? It's certainly going to better than
what you are doing now which is just talking. Buy it, put it on, and
see what you get. You may well find it to be very acceptable. The
point is you don't even know that at this point, and you're exploring
areas beyond that. Hell - just go buy a blade and use that damned saw!
You bought it, no go do what you paid for!

I was out in the shop/garage checking out my fence with my straight edge
and combination square at about 3:00 AM last night. The fence did well
on my tests, and I took it apart and learned more about how it works.
But it's still Winter here. Please don't "damn" me anything.

Bill

Bill wrote:

I know there are a lot of Forrest WW-II fans, but the reviews were not
very overwhelming, so it's sort of a tough call (but you can see which way I'm leaning).

It is a no brainer call.

Buying a Forrest WW-II is not something you will ever regret. If there was
a better 'bang for the buck' blade out there trust me, I'd own it. It's all
I use except on the rare occasion when I rip 8/4 + hardwoods with a Freud
Glueline Rip, but one of the three WW II's I own is really all that is
necessary at that.

--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)

Swingman wrote:
Bill wrote:

I know there are a lot of Forrest WW-II fans, but the reviews were not
very overwhelming, so it's sort of a tough call (but you can see which way I'm leaning).
It is a no brainer call.

Buying a Forrest WW-II is not something you will ever regret. If there was
a better 'bang for the buck' blade out there trust me, I'd own it. It's all
I use except on the rare occasion when I rip 8/4 + hardwoods with a Freud
Glueline Rip, but one of the three WW II's I own is really all that is
necessary at that.


Thank you.

1. With regard to the WW-II, a number of folks were complaining about
their Cherry wood getting burnt. Have you observed any special issues
with Cherry (need to cut it faster?)

2. I assume any blade that is used to cut plywood is going to dull much
faster than one used for ordinary wood. Does it make sense then to have
a separate blade for plywood, so you can always have a "nice, sharp" one
available for cross-cutting wood? And besides those 2, I'd expect to
use an extra-cheap blade for rough-cutting plywood.

Bill

Bill wrote:
Swingman wrote:
Bill wrote:

I know there are a lot of Forrest WW-II fans, but the reviews were not
very overwhelming, so it's sort of a tough call (but you can see which way I'm leaning).
It is a no brainer call.

Buying a Forrest WW-II is not something you will ever regret. If there was
a better 'bang for the buck' blade out there trust me, I'd own it. It's all
I use except on the rare occasion when I rip 8/4 + hardwoods with a Freud
Glueline Rip, but one of the three WW II's I own is really all that is
necessary at that.


Thank you.

1. With regard to the WW-II, a number of folks were complaining about
their Cherry wood getting burnt. Have you observed any special issues
with Cherry (need to cut it faster?)

While that is a risk working with cherry to some extent, If the blade is
sharp and the feed rate is even, and the cherry still burns, IME most of
the time it is something other than the blade. Poorly setup tool, reaction
wood, etc.

2. I assume any blade that is used to cut plywood is going to dull much
faster than one used for ordinary wood.
Does it make sense then to have a separate blade for plywood, so you can
always have a "nice, sharp" one available for cross-cutting wood? And
besides those 2, I'd expect to use an extra-cheap blade for rough-cutting
plywood.

Use a WW-II and forget about all that. (I have more than one WW-II just so
I can rotate one to Forrest for sharpening when needed). I've used the same
(high quality) Festool blade to both rough and finish cut more plywood in
the past three years than the average woodworker will cut in 20.

Cheap blades are a waste of time/money.

--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)

Swingman wrote in news:1918116651411466633.755997kac-
:

Bill wrote:

I know there are a lot of Forrest WW-II fans, but the reviews were not
very overwhelming, so it's sort of a tough call (but you can see which way I'm leaning).

It is a no brainer call.

Buying a Forrest WW-II is not something you will ever regret. If there was
a better 'bang for the buck' blade out there trust me, I'd own it.

There is.

http://ridgecarbidetool.com/saws-and...10-ts2000.html

The cut quality is every bit as good as the Forrest WWII at about 80% of the price. I bought
one of these at the Woodworking Show about four years ago, and was very impressed. I'll
never go back to Forrest blades -- especially after having had an absolutely miserable
experience with their service. IMO Forrest is overrated, with respect to the quality of both
their products and their service.

Bill wrote in :

1. With regard to the WW-II, a number of folks were complaining about
their Cherry wood getting burnt. Have you observed any special issues
with Cherry (need to cut it faster?)

That's another reason I like the Ridge Carbide blade: it *is* easy to burn cherry with a WWII,
but not quite so easy with the RC blade.

2. I assume any blade that is used to cut plywood is going to dull much
faster than one used for ordinary wood.

Faster, anyway, yes.

Does it make sense then to have
a separate blade for plywood, so you can always have a "nice, sharp" one
available for cross-cutting wood?

IMO that depends on how much plywood you cut. I haven't found it necessary.

And besides those 2, I'd expect to
use an extra-cheap blade for rough-cutting plywood.

I use a portable circular saw for rough-cutting plywood, not my table saw. Of course, that's
due partly to my shop being in my basement -- with yours being in your garage, it's
obviously much easier for you to cut plywood on your table saw than it would be for me.

Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
Hey Bill - just an idea - why not just go to your local big box store
and bjy a decent table saw blade? It's certainly going to better than
what you are doing now which is just talking. Buy it, put it on, and
see what you get. You may well find it to be very acceptable. The
point is you don't even know that at this point, and you're exploring
areas beyond that. Hell - just go buy a blade and use that damned
saw! You bought it, no go do what you paid for!

I was out in the shop/garage checking out my fence with my straight
edge and combination square at about 3:00 AM last night. The fence
did well on my tests, and I took it apart and learned more about how
it works. But it's still Winter here. Please don't "damn" me
anything.

Very cool - I understand the 3 AM thing. BTW - I was nudging you in a
joking manner - not being critical.

--

-Mike-

On Tue, 14 Jan 2014 18:02:26 -0500, Bill
wrote:

I just don't want it to throw anything at me (and I don't want to be in
the line of fire if it tries....) And I don't want to have to explain
that I didn't know I was doing something in a "stupid" way. As you
suggested, Leon provided me with good answers to my questions.

Leather apron if it does helps, but if you pay attention to the saw
you will minimize that problem. One of the reasons my father quit
using his wood working machines was his hearing, he could no longer
hear well enough. Listening to the machine is an important part of
safety.

Bill just so you know you will do "something stupid" or something will
just happen, you are doing your best to minimize that risk. Go out and
have fun making something, if nothing else make some smaller boards.

The experience will help you learn abot your saw.

Mark

Doug Miller wrote:
Bill wrote in :

1. With regard to the WW-II, a number of folks were complaining about
their Cherry wood getting burnt. Have you observed any special issues
with Cherry (need to cut it faster?)
That's another reason I like the Ridge Carbide blade: it *is* easy to burn cherry with a WWII,
but not quite so easy with the RC blade.
2. I assume any blade that is used to cut plywood is going to dull much
faster than one used for ordinary wood.
Faster, anyway, yes.

Does it make sense then to have
a separate blade for plywood, so you can always have a "nice, sharp" one
available for cross-cutting wood?
IMO that depends on how much plywood you cut. I haven't found it necessary.

And besides those 2, I'd expect to
use an extra-cheap blade for rough-cutting plywood.
I use a portable circular saw for rough-cutting plywood, not my table saw. Of course, that's
due partly to my shop being in my basement -- with yours being in your garage, it's
obviously much easier for you to cut plywood on your table saw than it would be for me.


Woodcraft (in Indianapolis) has 15% off everything this weekend, so that
would put their WW-II at $115. If I don't do any better at the show, I
may pick one up on the way home.

Doug, get back with me if you have any interest in attending Marc Adams'
3-hour Router Presentation on Friday. I could be talked into going.

Doug Miller wrote:
Swingman wrote in news:1918116651411466633.755997kac-
:

Bill wrote:

I know there are a lot of Forrest WW-II fans, but the reviews were not
very overwhelming, so it's sort of a tough call (but you can see which way I'm leaning).

It is a no brainer call.

Buying a Forrest WW-II is not something you will ever regret. If there was
a better 'bang for the buck' blade out there trust me, I'd own it.

There is.

http://ridgecarbidetool.com/saws-and...10-ts2000.html

The cut quality is every bit as good as the Forrest WWII at about 80% of
the price. I bought
one of these at the Woodworking Show about four years ago, and was very impressed. I'll
never go back to Forrest blades -- especially after having had an absolutely miserable
experience with their service. IMO Forrest is overrated, with respect to
the quality of both
their products and their service.

How does it hold up after sharpening?

My criteria for what I do, besides a top notch cut, is longevity between
sharpening and number of sharpening cycles. Forrest has excelled in those
categories for me for years. AAMOF, I have a WW II still in use after 10+
years that cuts like new.

Don't doubt you have a good blade, but it would take evidence of that kind
of track record to get me to change.

--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)

Bill wrote:
Swingman wrote:
Bill wrote:

I know there are a lot of Forrest WW-II fans, but the reviews were not
very overwhelming, so it's sort of a tough call (but you can see which way I'm leaning).
It is a no brainer call.

Buying a Forrest WW-II is not something you will ever regret. If there was
a better 'bang for the buck' blade out there trust me, I'd own it. It's all
I use except on the rare occasion when I rip 8/4 + hardwoods with a Freud
Glueline Rip, but one of the three WW II's I own is really all that is
necessary at that.


Thank you.

1. With regard to the WW-II, a number of folks were complaining about
their Cherry wood getting burnt. Have you observed any special issues
with Cherry (need to cut it faster?)

Regardless of the blade, maple and cherry are very easy to burn if you do
not feed the work fast enough. Even on top of that if the wood has the
slightest amount of bow, read that as absolutely not dead ass flat, any
blade has the potential to burn maple or cherry. Assuming you don't feed
the work an an unusually slow rate any burn/scorch can be removed with a
few light passes of a cabinet scraper and or 180 grit sand paper. IMHO not
a factor for which blade to use.


2. I assume any blade that is used to cut plywood is going to dull much
faster than one used for ordinary wood. Does it make sense then to have
a separate blade for plywood, so you can always have a "nice, sharp" one
available for cross-cutting wood? And besides those 2, I'd expect to
use an extra-cheap blade for rough-cutting plywood.


People that talk about blades that dull when cutting plywood and materials
that are not "all wood" are using marginal blades to start with.

The WWII is not going to dull quickly regardless if you are cutting plywood
or solid wood. Buy the best to start with and you will not have to worry
about the blade giving poor results and or dulling prematurely. If you are
having worries with a blade that dulls quickly, that blade was a waste of
money to begin with IMHO.

Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:

All in all you can't foresee what is going to be best for you. You
cannot foresee all possible problems. You cannot foresee any gotcha's.

Like Swingman indicated, until you actually start using the saw, shop,
over blade guard/dust collector you have no clue what you are going to
actually want to end up with.

You can way over think all of this, and possibly put a lot of work
into something that you may end up not liking. Better to make a
decision from actual experience vs. a preconceived notion of something
you have read or think you wold prefer.


Okay. But having said that, what do you think of this choice of blades:

(Freud)
LU74R (30-tooth, "glue-line rip")
LU-85R (80-tooth, "ultimate cut-off")


All probably good blades. I have bought a lot of good blades through the
years, going back to the early 80's,
In 1999 I finally switched to the Forrest WWII 40 tooth Regular kerf blade,
For all cutting I have used nothing else, I do probably more woodworking
than most that post here so my blades see a lot of work compared to most.
Probably at the most I send the blade back to Forrest every 2-3 years to be
brought back to factory spec's.

FWIW I do not give the Forrest blades much thought, I don't long for
something better as I am never disappointed in the smoothness or quality of
the cut. Additionally I don't baby the blades or save them for special
projects, they are tough and stay sharp for a very long time even when
cutting through the occasional finishing nail.

I use this particular blade for "all" off my cuts regardless of the type of
cut I am making. The only exception to this is when I have my Forrest Dado
King mounted or my 15 year old WWII that I had reground to a flat cut for
cutting flat bottom groves

Many swear by switching out to use a dedicated rip blade, I used to do that
but really don't see the advantage over the Forrest WWII unless I plan to
rip a bunch of wood that is over 2" thick. I will say that Forrest now
offers a rip blade, the first ever IIRC.. I don't know if it is better for
ripping or simply to satisfy the customers desires.

Anyway to sum this all up, you will most likely be money ahead if you
simply start off with a Forrest WWII 40 tooth regular kerf blade and not
worry about babying it for any cutting shy of cutting through a bunch of
nails and or cutting material that may have a bunch of grit embedded in it.
Read that as be particular with where the wood comes from, don't cut wood
that the neighbor brings over that has been used out in the street as a
skate board ramp.



and possibly LU80R ("Ultimate plywood"--so that LU85R above, doesn't get "abused").

I use my WWII for cutting plywood, even the $120 a sheet stuff. I will
share a hint though when cross cutting plywood.
I first make a shallow scoring cut on the bottom of the plywood and then
rise the blade and run the work through again. The result is no tear out
using a WWII blade.



I know there are a lot of Forrest WW-II fans, but the reviews were not
very overwhelming, so it's sort of a tough call (but you can see which way I'm leaning).


I suspect that most are on a budget and don't need the longevity that the
Forrest affords you. Most any new blade will cut well, the test is how
well does that blade cut after 18 months of weekly and daily use.


According to my measurements, my Biesemeyer Blade spreader is .105-.107
inches. I'm not sure how small of a kerf I can go down to (and was not
able to find further direction). Two of the blades above have kerfs of
.116 and .118. We talking about a 1/100" of an inch, and "blade runout"
(however much there is) is on my side here, so it doesn't seem like a
problem. FWIW, I have no plan to cut anything thicker than 3/4" for now.


You really don't want to use a thin kerf blade. Thin kerf blades are
marginal problem solvers for saws that are WAY underpowered. The can cause
less than flat cuts in particular when cutting angles and or compound
angles. FWIW I was talked into buying a good quality Regular kerf
Systematic combination blade to use on my "1" hp craftsman TS. That blade
cut better than any thin kerf blade that I had previously used.



As Jeff suggested, I'll surely buy a lesser blade (if I can find any full
kerf ones) to practice on. The Freud-Diablo's, IIRC, seem to have kerf around .91.

Bill

Again, I don't think I would practice on anything other than a Forrest.
Lessor blades are going to yield lessor results.

On 1/15/2014 4:23 AM, Bill wrote:
Swingman wrote:
Bill wrote:

I know there are a lot of Forrest WW-II fans, but the reviews were not
very overwhelming, so it's sort of a tough call (but you can see
which way I'm leaning).
It is a no brainer call.

Buying a Forrest WW-II is not something you will ever regret. If there
was
a better 'bang for the buck' blade out there trust me, I'd own it.
It's all
I use except on the rare occasion when I rip 8/4 + hardwoods with a Freud
Glueline Rip, but one of the three WW II's I own is really all that is
necessary at that.


Thank you.

1. With regard to the WW-II, a number of folks were complaining about
their Cherry wood getting burnt. Have you observed any special issues
with Cherry (need to cut it faster?)

Bill, certain woods burn. So yes you need to move faster, or you need
less teeth when ripping so you can move faster. This is normal period.
I have many blades. _WWII is my goto blade for good cutting. _

When I need to rough rip a alot of wood, I go to a 24T blade I have.
When I need to work on wood that is questionable, I have a variety of
blades I will use..


2. I assume any blade that is used to cut plywood is going to dull much
faster than one used for ordinary wood. Does it make sense then to have
I cut ply with the WWII it will do it well. I don't cut OSB with a WWII,
I use a crappy Delta blade, or a craftsman blade..

a separate blade for plywood, so you can always have a "nice, sharp" one
available for cross-cutting wood? And besides those 2, I'd expect to
use an extra-cheap blade for rough-cutting plywood.

Just get a good blade to start, you don't need the WWII yet. Get it when
you have made all your mistakes and learned about feed speed.

There is nothing wrong with many of the lower blades, they will be more
rough, and splinter more. But some of them will be better than others.
The Freuds are better than many others, but the thin kerf is not needed
or desirable on your saw.

Bill


--
Jeff

Swingman wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:
Swingman wrote in news:1918116651411466633.755997kac-
:

Bill wrote:

I know there are a lot of Forrest WW-II fans, but the reviews were not
very overwhelming, so it's sort of a tough call (but you can see which way I'm leaning).

It is a no brainer call.

Buying a Forrest WW-II is not something you will ever regret. If there was
a better 'bang for the buck' blade out there trust me, I'd own it.

There is.

http://ridgecarbidetool.com/saws-and...10-ts2000.html

The cut quality is every bit as good as the Forrest WWII at about 80% of
the price. I bought
one of these at the Woodworking Show about four years ago, and was very impressed. I'll
never go back to Forrest blades -- especially after having had an absolutely miserable
experience with their service. IMO Forrest is overrated, with respect to
the quality of both
their products and their service.

How does it hold up after sharpening?

My criteria for what I do, besides a top notch cut, is longevity between
sharpening and number of sharpening cycles. Forrest has excelled in those
categories for me for years. AAMOF, I have a WW II still in use after 10+
years that cuts like new.

Don't doubt you have a good blade, but it would take evidence of that kind
of track record to get me to change.


One of my Forrest blades is 15 years old and has probably been resharpened
5 times by Forrest, still cuts like the newer ones.

On 1/15/2014 7:18 AM, Doug Miller wrote:
Bill wrote in :

1. With regard to the WW-II, a number of folks were complaining about
their Cherry wood getting burnt. Have you observed any special issues
with Cherry (need to cut it faster?)

That's another reason I like the Ridge Carbide blade: it *is* easy to burn cherry with a WWII,
but not quite so easy with the RC blade.
How do you know that about the WWII, do you have a different # of teeth?
I have a RC dado set. I would not recommend it to anyone. Size wise it
had too many issues.

2. I assume any blade that is used to cut plywood is going to dull much
faster than one used for ordinary wood.

Faster, anyway, yes.

Does it make sense then to have
a separate blade for plywood, so you can always have a "nice, sharp" one
available for cross-cutting wood?

IMO that depends on how much plywood you cut. I haven't found it necessary.

And besides those 2, I'd expect to
use an extra-cheap blade for rough-cutting plywood.

I use a portable circular saw for rough-cutting plywood, not my table saw. Of course, that's
due partly to my shop being in my basement -- with yours being in your garage, it's
obviously much easier for you to cut plywood on your table saw than it would be for me.



--
Jeff

On 1/15/2014 7:14 AM, Doug Miller wrote:
Swingman wrote in news:1918116651411466633.755997kac-
:

Bill wrote:

I know there are a lot of Forrest WW-II fans, but the reviews were not
very overwhelming, so it's sort of a tough call (but you can see which way I'm leaning).

It is a no brainer call.

Buying a Forrest WW-II is not something you will ever regret. If there was
a better 'bang for the buck' blade out there trust me, I'd own it.

There is.

http://ridgecarbidetool.com/saws-and...10-ts2000.html

The cut quality is every bit as good as the Forrest WWII at about 80% of the price. I bought
one of these at the Woodworking Show about four years ago, and was very impressed. I'll
never go back to Forrest blades -- especially after having had an absolutely miserable
experience with their service. IMO Forrest is overrated, with respect to the quality of both
their products and their service.


I have had the opposite experience with Forrest. Excellent service.
I also had good service from RC, they had to regrind my Dado set because
the sizes were so far off. a 1/4 dado was 3/32 over. The points were so
much higher than the flat area. When they ground it down, they had to
grind the metal plate to get the sizes close.. Not what I would expect.

Forrest was great about everything. I went to their shop, just to check
them out.. This is old world methodologies here, most everything is hand
checked to the max. There are machines, but people are the key. These
are machinists.. And they do good work.

WWII does not dull easily, it's C4 and I had used mine for years before
needing a sharpening.

--
Jeff

On 1/15/2014 6:59 AM, Markem wrote:
On Tue, 14 Jan 2014 18:02:26 -0500, Bill
wrote:

I just don't want it to throw anything at me (and I don't want to be in
the line of fire if it tries....) And I don't want to have to explain
that I didn't know I was doing something in a "stupid" way. As you
suggested, Leon provided me with good answers to my questions.

Leather apron if it does helps, but if you pay attention to the saw
you will minimize that problem. One of the reasons my father quit
using his wood working machines was his hearing, he could no longer
hear well enough. Listening to the machine is an important part of
safety.

Good recommendations. A heavy apron will go a long way in protecting
any body part that it is protecting in the event of something being
thrown back.






Bill just so you know you will do "something stupid" or something will
just happen, you are doing your best to minimize that risk. Go out and
have fun making something, if nothing else make some smaller boards.

The experience will help you learn abot your saw.

Mark

On 1/15/2014 3:23 AM, Bill wrote:
Swingman wrote:
Bill wrote:

I know there are a lot of Forrest WW-II fans, but the reviews were not
very overwhelming, so it's sort of a tough call (but you can see
which way I'm leaning).
It is a no brainer call.

Buying a Forrest WW-II is not something you will ever regret. If there
was
a better 'bang for the buck' blade out there trust me, I'd own it.
It's all
I use except on the rare occasion when I rip 8/4 + hardwoods with a Freud
Glueline Rip, but one of the three WW II's I own is really all that is
necessary at that.


Thank you.

1. With regard to the WW-II, a number of folks were complaining about
their Cherry wood getting burnt. Have you observed any special issues
with Cherry (need to cut it faster?)

One more thing to add concerning burning. There are a lot of schools of
though concerning blade height.

The lower the blade the less exposure you have to it when cutting wood.
BUT the higher it is the less likely of any burning/scorching assuming
the saw is set up correctly. I prefer to have the bottoms of the
carbide teeth to clear the top of the board by about 1/8"

On 1/15/2014 12:21 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/15/2014 3:23 AM, Bill wrote:
Swingman wrote:
Bill wrote:

I know there are a lot of Forrest WW-II fans, but the reviews were not
very overwhelming, so it's sort of a tough call (but you can see
which way I'm leaning).
It is a no brainer call.

Buying a Forrest WW-II is not something you will ever regret. If there
was
a better 'bang for the buck' blade out there trust me, I'd own it.
It's all
I use except on the rare occasion when I rip 8/4 + hardwoods with a
Freud
Glueline Rip, but one of the three WW II's I own is really all that is
necessary at that.


Thank you.

1. With regard to the WW-II, a number of folks were complaining about
their Cherry wood getting burnt. Have you observed any special issues
with Cherry (need to cut it faster?)

One more thing to add concerning burning. There are a lot of schools of
though concerning blade height.

The lower the blade the less exposure you have to it when cutting wood.
BUT the higher it is the less likely of any burning/scorching assuming
the saw is set up correctly. I prefer to have the bottoms of the
carbide teeth to clear the top of the board by about 1/8"


Exactly, I go further then Leon, as I want the gullets clear of the
wood, so the tips get cooled off. Also even higher is a big advantage as
the wood now gets cut down toward the table; when it is low it gets cut
toward you.

When you have a lot of ripping to do, raising the blade as high as
possible will speed the ripping as you can push through much faster with
less resistance and generally cleaner cuts as the blade is only cutting
down.

--
Jeff

On 1/15/2014 9:34 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/15/2014 7:14 AM, Doug Miller wrote:
Swingman wrote in news:1918116651411466633.755997kac-
:

Bill wrote:

I know there are a lot of Forrest WW-II fans, but the reviews were not
very overwhelming, so it's sort of a tough call (but you can see
which way I'm leaning).

It is a no brainer call.

Buying a Forrest WW-II is not something you will ever regret. If
there was
a better 'bang for the buck' blade out there trust me, I'd own it.

There is.

http://ridgecarbidetool.com/saws-and...10-ts2000.html


The cut quality is every bit as good as the Forrest WWII at about 80%
of the price. I bought
one of these at the Woodworking Show about four years ago, and was
very impressed. I'll
never go back to Forrest blades -- especially after having had an
absolutely miserable
experience with their service. IMO Forrest is overrated, with respect
to the quality of both
their products and their service.


I have had the opposite experience with Forrest. Excellent service.
I also had good service from RC, they had to regrind my Dado set because
the sizes were so far off. a 1/4 dado was 3/32 over. The points were so
much higher than the flat area. When they ground it down, they had to
grind the metal plate to get the sizes close.. Not what I would expect.

Forrest was great about everything. I went to their shop, just to check
them out.. This is old world methodologies here, most everything is hand
checked to the max. There are machines, but people are the key. These
are machinists.. And they do good work.

WWII does not dull easily, it's C4 and I had used mine for years before
needing a sharpening.

Must be nice living that close to Forrest.

I once sent my Forrest to the sharpening service that I had used back in
the 80's and most of the 90's, A couple weeks later I sent it out again
to Forrest to be brought back to factory specs. Sooooo I was with out
for a couple of weeks more waiting on the trip to and from NJ.

Since I have gotten another Forrest to swap out while one goes out for
its Spa treatment. ;~)

Got still another Forrest, thank you Swingman, when we teamed up on a
job together 3 years ago.

When I send the blades to Forrest I add the note to bring back to
Factory Spec's. If the estimate will be more than $40 call for
authorization.

On 1/15/2014 12:41 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/15/2014 9:34 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/15/2014 7:14 AM, Doug Miller wrote:
Swingman wrote in news:1918116651411466633.755997kac-
:

Bill wrote:

I know there are a lot of Forrest WW-II fans, but the reviews were not
very overwhelming, so it's sort of a tough call (but you can see
which way I'm leaning).

It is a no brainer call.

Buying a Forrest WW-II is not something you will ever regret. If
there was
a better 'bang for the buck' blade out there trust me, I'd own it.

There is.

http://ridgecarbidetool.com/saws-and...10-ts2000.html



The cut quality is every bit as good as the Forrest WWII at about 80%
of the price. I bought
one of these at the Woodworking Show about four years ago, and was
very impressed. I'll
never go back to Forrest blades -- especially after having had an
absolutely miserable
experience with their service. IMO Forrest is overrated, with respect
to the quality of both
their products and their service.


I have had the opposite experience with Forrest. Excellent service.
I also had good service from RC, they had to regrind my Dado set because
the sizes were so far off. a 1/4 dado was 3/32 over. The points were so
much higher than the flat area. When they ground it down, they had to
grind the metal plate to get the sizes close.. Not what I would expect.

Forrest was great about everything. I went to their shop, just to check
them out.. This is old world methodologies here, most everything is hand
checked to the max. There are machines, but people are the key. These
are machinists.. And they do good work.

WWII does not dull easily, it's C4 and I had used mine for years before
needing a sharpening.

Must be nice living that close to Forrest.
Nothing special, where I live, everything is at least an hour away.

I once sent my Forrest to the sharpening service that I had used back in
the 80's and most of the 90's, A couple weeks later I sent it out again
to Forrest to be brought back to factory specs. Sooooo I was with out
for a couple of weeks more waiting on the trip to and from NJ.

Since I have gotten another Forrest to swap out while one goes out for
its Spa treatment. ;~)

Got still another Forrest, thank you Swingman, when we teamed up on a
job together 3 years ago.

When I send the blades to Forrest I add the note to bring back to
Factory Spec's. If the estimate will be more than $40 call for
authorization.



I want to get another, I have a thin kerf, and will switch to a regular
kerf next time, as you say I have problems when tapering legs, I now
start at the bottom of the leg so I am cutting against the grain (so to
say).
And when leaning the blade over I have some issues. When I put a 1/8
kerf blade on I don't have the same issues.

But for my Delta contractor saw, the thin kerf has served me well.



--
Jeff

Swingman wrote in news:751993342411487114.398076kac-
:

Doug Miller wrote:

http://ridgecarbidetool.com/saws-and...10-ts2000.html

How does it hold up after sharpening?

Don't know -- it hasn't needed sharpening yet. :-)

woodchucker wrote in
:

On 1/15/2014 7:18 AM, Doug Miller wrote:
Bill wrote in
:

1. With regard to the WW-II, a number of folks were
complaining about their Cherry wood getting burnt. Have you
observed any special issues with Cherry (need to cut it
faster?)

That's another reason I like the Ridge Carbide blade: it *is*
easy to burn cherry with a WWII, but not quite so easy with the
RC blade.
How do you know that about the WWII, do you have a different #
of teeth?

I have one of those also. I prefer the RC blade.

I have a RC dado set. I would not recommend it to anyone. Size
wise it had too many issues.

That surprises me. The reason I bought the RC blade is because I
was so happy with the performance of the RC dado set I had bought
a few years previously.

Leon wrote:
Bill wrote:
As Jeff suggested, I'll surely buy a lesser blade (if I can find any full
kerf ones) to practice on. The Freud-Diablo's, IIRC, seem to have kerf around .91.

Bill
Again, I don't think I would practice on anything other than a Forrest.
Lessor blades are going to yield lessor results.

Jeff was just concerned that I might accidentally "burn up the blade"
during my "learning-phase" and that it would be an expensive lesson...

On 1/15/2014 12:21 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/15/2014 12:41 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/15/2014 9:34 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/15/2014 7:14 AM, Doug Miller wrote:
Swingman wrote in news:1918116651411466633.755997kac-
:

Bill wrote:

I know there are a lot of Forrest WW-II fans, but the reviews were
not
very overwhelming, so it's sort of a tough call (but you can see
which way I'm leaning).

It is a no brainer call.

Buying a Forrest WW-II is not something you will ever regret. If
there was
a better 'bang for the buck' blade out there trust me, I'd own it.

There is.

http://ridgecarbidetool.com/saws-and...10-ts2000.html




The cut quality is every bit as good as the Forrest WWII at about 80%
of the price. I bought
one of these at the Woodworking Show about four years ago, and was
very impressed. I'll
never go back to Forrest blades -- especially after having had an
absolutely miserable
experience with their service. IMO Forrest is overrated, with respect
to the quality of both
their products and their service.


I have had the opposite experience with Forrest. Excellent service.
I also had good service from RC, they had to regrind my Dado set because
the sizes were so far off. a 1/4 dado was 3/32 over. The points were so
much higher than the flat area. When they ground it down, they had to
grind the metal plate to get the sizes close.. Not what I would expect.

Forrest was great about everything. I went to their shop, just to check
them out.. This is old world methodologies here, most everything is hand
checked to the max. There are machines, but people are the key. These
are machinists.. And they do good work.

WWII does not dull easily, it's C4 and I had used mine for years before
needing a sharpening.

Must be nice living that close to Forrest.
Nothing special, where I live, everything is at least an hour away.

Same in Houston. LOL




I once sent my Forrest to the sharpening service that I had used back in
the 80's and most of the 90's, A couple weeks later I sent it out again
to Forrest to be brought back to factory specs. Sooooo I was with out
for a couple of weeks more waiting on the trip to and from NJ.

Since I have gotten another Forrest to swap out while one goes out for
its Spa treatment. ;~)

Got still another Forrest, thank you Swingman, when we teamed up on a
job together 3 years ago.

When I send the blades to Forrest I add the note to bring back to
Factory Spec's. If the estimate will be more than $40 call for
authorization.



I want to get another, I have a thin kerf, and will switch to a regular
kerf next time, as you say I have problems when tapering legs, I now
start at the bottom of the leg so I am cutting against the grain (so to
say).
And when leaning the blade over I have some issues. When I put a 1/8
kerf blade on I don't have the same issues.

How about that. ;~)




But for my Delta contractor saw, the thin kerf has served me well.

I was building decent furniture with my old Craftsman 1 hp and the good
quality regular kerf worked quite well for me.

My blade sharpening guy talked me into a reg kerf combo Systematic blade
that he sold in his store knowing about my underpowered saw.

I was skeptical so he let me use it for 10 days with out having to worry
about being stuck with it if I were not pleased.

I was very pleased and really somewhat shocked at how much better it was
over any thing I had ever used.


When I upgraded in 1999 to the Jet cabinet saw it only saw Forrest
blades, same with my new SawStop.

On 1/15/2014 9:34 AM, woodchucker wrote:
Forrest was great about everything. I went to their shop, just to check
them out.. This is old world methodologies here, most everything is hand
checked to the max. There are machines, but people are the key. These
are machinists.. And they do good work.

That's good to hear. I know there have been some folks less than pleased
with Forrest after the old man, Jim Forrest, died a few years back.
Since it is a family business, sure hope it stays on track, and American
made.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 1/15/2014 5:43 PM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:
Bill wrote:
As Jeff suggested, I'll surely buy a lesser blade (if I can find any
full
kerf ones) to practice on. The Freud-Diablo's, IIRC, seem to have
kerf around .91.

Bill
Again, I don't think I would practice on anything other than a Forrest.
Lessor blades are going to yield lessor results.

Jeff was just concerned that I might accidentally "burn up the blade"
during my "learning-phase" and that it would be an expensive lesson...





Not going to burn it up. I have run my Forrest, full up buried,
resawing a 1x6 piece of ipe. Ipe is approximately 2.5 time harder than oak.

Just don't try to screw it up...

Leon wrote:
On 1/15/2014 5:43 PM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:
Bill wrote:
As Jeff suggested, I'll surely buy a lesser blade (if I can find any
full
kerf ones) to practice on. The Freud-Diablo's, IIRC, seem to have
kerf around .91.

Bill
Again, I don't think I would practice on anything other than a Forrest.
Lessor blades are going to yield lessor results.

Jeff was just concerned that I might accidentally "burn up the blade"
during my "learning-phase" and that it would be an expensive lesson...





Not going to burn it up. I have run my Forrest, full up buried,
resawing a 1x6 piece of ipe. Ipe is approximately 2.5 time harder
than oak.

Just don't try to screw it up...

A 20% hook is pretty high, no? The wood may be inclined to feed itself!
Anyway, it appears that I may save some time and money by going with
this blade, so I appreciate the time and effort spent to help make me a
"happy camper"!
There was even more convincing than I needed, but maybe someone else
learned something too.

Based on reading a lot of blade reviews, on separate occasions, it does
seem likely that those who were not satisfied probably needed saw
adjustments (or smoother-running belts, or a new saw ; ) In numerous
cases, those that made the adjustments wrote that they got improved results.

Bill

On 1/15/2014 8:12 PM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 1/15/2014 5:43 PM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:
Bill wrote:
As Jeff suggested, I'll surely buy a lesser blade (if I can find any
full
kerf ones) to practice on. The Freud-Diablo's, IIRC, seem to have
kerf around .91.

Bill
Again, I don't think I would practice on anything other than a Forrest.
Lessor blades are going to yield lessor results.

Jeff was just concerned that I might accidentally "burn up the blade"
during my "learning-phase" and that it would be an expensive lesson...





Not going to burn it up. I have run my Forrest, full up buried,
resawing a 1x6 piece of ipe. Ipe is approximately 2.5 time harder
than oak.

Just don't try to screw it up...

A 20% hook is pretty high, no?

I have no idea.

The wood may be inclined to feed itself!
Anyway, it appears that I may save some time and money by going with
this blade, so I appreciate the time and effort spent to help make me a
"happy camper"!
There was even more convincing than I needed, but maybe someone else
learned something too.

Seriously that blade handles 99.5% of what I want to do with it, the
other .5% is done with the Flat grind Forrest II.

If for some reason the blade does not yield stellar results, you have a
misalignment problem with the saw.

The blade is built and flattened to tight tolerances. I gladly pay a
little extra to have Forrest do the resharpening and tune ups.
typically I pay less than $30 plus shipping. It will be a long time
before it needs that.


Let me warn you. If you use a zero clearance insert, do not tilt the
blade with the insert in place. That will unflatten the blade in a
heart beat. ;~) DAMHIKT.





Based on reading a lot of blade reviews, on separate occasions, it does
seem likely that those who were not satisfied probably needed saw
adjustments (or smoother-running belts, or a new saw ; ) In numerous
cases, those that made the adjustments wrote that they got improved
results.

Bill

On Wed, 15 Jan 2014 18:45:10 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
Not going to burn it up. I have run my Forrest, full up buried,
resawing a 1x6 piece of ipe. Ipe is approximately 2.5 time harder than oak.

And with a fully buried blade and just a little experience, one can
tell by the sound if the blade is starting to bog down or the smell
if it's starting to burn.

On Wed, 15 Jan 2014 20:30:01 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

Let me warn you. If you use a zero clearance insert, do not tilt the
blade with the insert in place. That will unflatten the blade in a
heart beat. ;~) DAMHIKT.

But then you have a home made wobble dado blade. Hopefully of a useful
dimension.

I won't ask but I know.

Mark

On Wed, 15 Jan 2014 20:30:01 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

Let me warn you. If you use a zero clearance insert, do not tilt the
blade with the insert in place. That will unflatten the blade in a
heart beat. ;~) DAMHIKT.


Just rotating the wheel the other direction doesn't fix it, huh? ; )

I'll bear your lesson in mind.

On Wed, 15 Jan 2014 09:11:45 -0600, Leon wrote:

Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:

All in all you can't foresee what is going to be best for you. You
cannot foresee all possible problems. You cannot foresee any gotcha's.

Like Swingman indicated, until you actually start using the saw, shop,
over blade guard/dust collector you have no clue what you are going to
actually want to end up with.

You can way over think all of this, and possibly put a lot of work
into something that you may end up not liking. Better to make a
decision from actual experience vs. a preconceived notion of something
you have read or think you wold prefer.


Okay. But having said that, what do you think of this choice of blades:

(Freud)
LU74R (30-tooth, "glue-line rip")
LU-85R (80-tooth, "ultimate cut-off")


All probably good blades. I have bought a lot of good blades through the
years, going back to the early 80's,
In 1999 I finally switched to the Forrest WWII 40 tooth Regular kerf blade,
For all cutting I have used nothing else, I do probably more woodworking
than most that post here so my blades see a lot of work compared to most.
Probably at the most I send the blade back to Forrest every 2-3 years to be
brought back to factory spec's.

FWIW I do not give the Forrest blades much thought, I don't long for
something better as I am never disappointed in the smoothness or quality of
the cut. Additionally I don't baby the blades or save them for special
projects, they are tough and stay sharp for a very long time even when
cutting through the occasional finishing nail.

I use this particular blade for "all" off my cuts regardless of the type of
cut I am making. The only exception to this is when I have my Forrest Dado
King mounted or my 15 year old WWII that I had reground to a flat cut for
cutting flat bottom groves

I have 2 40T and bought a 48 T Forest Blade. I took one off to get it
sharpened but judging by the new one I could have waited. The 40T
cuts so well I haven't been motivted yet to try the 48 tooth.

Many swear by switching out to use a dedicated rip blade, I used to do that
but really don't see the advantage over the Forrest WWII unless I plan to
rip a bunch of wood that is over 2" thick. I will say that Forrest now
offers a rip blade, the first ever IIRC.. I don't know if it is better for
ripping or simply to satisfy the customers desires.

Anyway to sum this all up, you will most likely be money ahead if you
simply start off with a Forrest WWII 40 tooth regular kerf blade and not
worry about babying it for any cutting shy of cutting through a bunch of
nails and or cutting material that may have a bunch of grit embedded in it.
Read that as be particular with where the wood comes from, don't cut wood
that the neighbor brings over that has been used out in the street as a
skate board ramp.



and possibly LU80R ("Ultimate plywood"--so that LU85R above, doesn't get "abused").

I use my WWII for cutting plywood, even the $120 a sheet stuff. I will
share a hint though when cross cutting plywood.
I first make a shallow scoring cut on the bottom of the plywood and then
rise the blade and run the work through again. The result is no tear out
using a WWII blade.



I know there are a lot of Forrest WW-II fans, but the reviews were not
very overwhelming, so it's sort of a tough call (but you can see which way I'm leaning).


I suspect that most are on a budget and don't need the longevity that the
Forrest affords you. Most any new blade will cut well, the test is how
well does that blade cut after 18 months of weekly and daily use.


According to my measurements, my Biesemeyer Blade spreader is .105-.107
inches. I'm not sure how small of a kerf I can go down to (and was not
able to find further direction). Two of the blades above have kerfs of
.116 and .118. We talking about a 1/100" of an inch, and "blade runout"
(however much there is) is on my side here, so it doesn't seem like a
problem. FWIW, I have no plan to cut anything thicker than 3/4" for now.


You really don't want to use a thin kerf blade. Thin kerf blades are
marginal problem solvers for saws that are WAY underpowered. The can cause
less than flat cuts in particular when cutting angles and or compound
angles. FWIW I was talked into buying a good quality Regular kerf
Systematic combination blade to use on my "1" hp craftsman TS. That blade
cut better than any thin kerf blade that I had previously used.



As Jeff suggested, I'll surely buy a lesser blade (if I can find any full
kerf ones) to practice on. The Freud-Diablo's, IIRC, seem to have kerf around .91.

Bill

Again, I don't think I would practice on anything other than a Forrest.
Lessor blades are going to yield lessor results.

On Wed, 15 Jan 2014 06:59:19 -0600, Markem
wrote:

On Tue, 14 Jan 2014 18:02:26 -0500, Bill
wrote:

I just don't want it to throw anything at me (and I don't want to be in
the line of fire if it tries....) And I don't want to have to explain
that I didn't know I was doing something in a "stupid" way. As you
suggested, Leon provided me with good answers to my questions.

Leather apron if it does helps, but if you pay attention to the saw
you will minimize that problem. One of the reasons my father quit
using his wood working machines was his hearing, he could no longer
hear well enough. Listening to the machine is an important part of
safety.

So important, I worked up poles and with a lot of lift equipment. The
young guys hated me as I wouldn't let them listen to music. Tried to
teach them to listento the equipment as a change is sound might be a
warning of failure to come.

Bill just so you know you will do "something stupid" or something will
just happen, you are doing your best to minimize that risk. Go out and
have fun making something, if nothing else make some smaller boards.

The experience will help you learn abot your saw.

Mark

On 1/17/2014 3:29 AM, Mike M wrote:
On Wed, 15 Jan 2014 09:11:45 -0600, Leon wrote:

Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:

All in all you can't foresee what is going to be best for you. You
cannot foresee all possible problems. You cannot foresee any gotcha's.

Like Swingman indicated, until you actually start using the saw, shop,
over blade guard/dust collector you have no clue what you are going to
actually want to end up with.

You can way over think all of this, and possibly put a lot of work
into something that you may end up not liking. Better to make a
decision from actual experience vs. a preconceived notion of something
you have read or think you wold prefer.


Okay. But having said that, what do you think of this choice of blades:

(Freud)
LU74R (30-tooth, "glue-line rip")
LU-85R (80-tooth, "ultimate cut-off")


All probably good blades. I have bought a lot of good blades through the
years, going back to the early 80's,
In 1999 I finally switched to the Forrest WWII 40 tooth Regular kerf blade,
For all cutting I have used nothing else, I do probably more woodworking
than most that post here so my blades see a lot of work compared to most.
Probably at the most I send the blade back to Forrest every 2-3 years to be
brought back to factory spec's.

FWIW I do not give the Forrest blades much thought, I don't long for
something better as I am never disappointed in the smoothness or quality of
the cut. Additionally I don't baby the blades or save them for special
projects, they are tough and stay sharp for a very long time even when
cutting through the occasional finishing nail.

I use this particular blade for "all" off my cuts regardless of the type of
cut I am making. The only exception to this is when I have my Forrest Dado
King mounted or my 15 year old WWII that I had reground to a flat cut for
cutting flat bottom groves

I have 2 40T and bought a 48 T Forest Blade. I took one off to get it
sharpened but judging by the new one I could have waited. The 40T
cuts so well I haven't been motivted yet to try the 48 tooth.

I think the 48 is overkill. The 40t is a good all around blade, the 48
would be too oriented to crosscutting and too slow for ripping.


Many swear by switching out to use a dedicated rip blade, I used to do that
but really don't see the advantage over the Forrest WWII unless I plan to
rip a bunch of wood that is over 2" thick. I will say that Forrest now
offers a rip blade, the first ever IIRC.. I don't know if it is better for
ripping or simply to satisfy the customers desires.

Anyway to sum this all up, you will most likely be money ahead if you
simply start off with a Forrest WWII 40 tooth regular kerf blade and not
worry about babying it for any cutting shy of cutting through a bunch of
nails and or cutting material that may have a bunch of grit embedded in it.
Read that as be particular with where the wood comes from, don't cut wood
that the neighbor brings over that has been used out in the street as a
skate board ramp.



and possibly LU80R ("Ultimate plywood"--so that LU85R above, doesn't get "abused").

I use my WWII for cutting plywood, even the $120 a sheet stuff. I will
share a hint though when cross cutting plywood.
I first make a shallow scoring cut on the bottom of the plywood and then
rise the blade and run the work through again. The result is no tear out
using a WWII blade.



I know there are a lot of Forrest WW-II fans, but the reviews were not
very overwhelming, so it's sort of a tough call (but you can see which way I'm leaning).


I suspect that most are on a budget and don't need the longevity that the
Forrest affords you. Most any new blade will cut well, the test is how
well does that blade cut after 18 months of weekly and daily use.


According to my measurements, my Biesemeyer Blade spreader is .105-.107
inches. I'm not sure how small of a kerf I can go down to (and was not
able to find further direction). Two of the blades above have kerfs of
.116 and .118. We talking about a 1/100" of an inch, and "blade runout"
(however much there is) is on my side here, so it doesn't seem like a
problem. FWIW, I have no plan to cut anything thicker than 3/4" for now.


You really don't want to use a thin kerf blade. Thin kerf blades are
marginal problem solvers for saws that are WAY underpowered. The can cause
less than flat cuts in particular when cutting angles and or compound
angles. FWIW I was talked into buying a good quality Regular kerf
Systematic combination blade to use on my "1" hp craftsman TS. That blade
cut better than any thin kerf blade that I had previously used.



As Jeff suggested, I'll surely buy a lesser blade (if I can find any full
kerf ones) to practice on. The Freud-Diablo's, IIRC, seem to have kerf around .91.

Bill

Again, I don't think I would practice on anything other than a Forrest.
Lessor blades are going to yield lessor results.


--
Jeff

On 1/16/2014 7:46 PM, Bill wrote:

On Wed, 15 Jan 2014 20:30:01 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

Let me warn you. If you use a zero clearance insert, do not tilt the
blade with the insert in place. That will unflatten the blade in a
heart beat. ;~) DAMHIKT.


Just rotating the wheel the other direction doesn't fix it, huh? ; )

I'll bear your lesson in mind.

Swingman is not chiming in here but I think he went to that same class
as I did. ;~)

On 1/17/2014 8:31 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/17/2014 3:29 AM, Mike M wrote:
On Wed, 15 Jan 2014 09:11:45 -0600, Leon wrote:

Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:

All in all you can't foresee what is going to be best for you. You
cannot foresee all possible problems. You cannot foresee any
gotcha's.

Like Swingman indicated, until you actually start using the saw, shop,
over blade guard/dust collector you have no clue what you are going to
actually want to end up with.

You can way over think all of this, and possibly put a lot of work
into something that you may end up not liking. Better to make a
decision from actual experience vs. a preconceived notion of something
you have read or think you wold prefer.


Okay. But having said that, what do you think of this choice of
blades:

(Freud)
LU74R (30-tooth, "glue-line rip")
LU-85R (80-tooth, "ultimate cut-off")


All probably good blades. I have bought a lot of good blades through
the
years, going back to the early 80's,
In 1999 I finally switched to the Forrest WWII 40 tooth Regular kerf
blade,
For all cutting I have used nothing else, I do probably more
woodworking
than most that post here so my blades see a lot of work compared to
most.
Probably at the most I send the blade back to Forrest every 2-3 years
to be
brought back to factory spec's.

FWIW I do not give the Forrest blades much thought, I don't long for
something better as I am never disappointed in the smoothness or
quality of
the cut. Additionally I don't baby the blades or save them for special
projects, they are tough and stay sharp for a very long time even when
cutting through the occasional finishing nail.

I use this particular blade for "all" off my cuts regardless of the
type of
cut I am making. The only exception to this is when I have my
Forrest Dado
King mounted or my 15 year old WWII that I had reground to a flat cut
for
cutting flat bottom groves

I have 2 40T and bought a 48 T Forest Blade. I took one off to get it
sharpened but judging by the new one I could have waited. The 40T
cuts so well I haven't been motivted yet to try the 48 tooth.

I think the 48 is overkill. The 40t is a good all around blade, the 48
would be too oriented to crosscutting and too slow for ripping.

Perhaps cuz I typically get an almost burnished cut on the end grain
with 40 teeth.
Although it might be better for woods like pine or poplar, soft woods maybe.

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:
On 1/16/2014 7:46 PM, Bill wrote:

On Wed, 15 Jan 2014 20:30:01 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

Let me warn you. If you use a zero clearance insert, do not tilt the
blade with the insert in place. That will unflatten the blade in a
heart beat. ;~) DAMHIKT.


Just rotating the wheel the other direction doesn't fix it, huh? ; )

I'll bear your lesson in mind.

Swingman is not chiming in here but I think he went to that same class as I did. ;~)

Who me?! Yep, BTDT. Generally speaking, if a mistake can be made in the
shop, I've made it. Especially if it involves angles. Yesterday I played
trim carpenter on a bath remodel, pocket door trim, base board, shoe
molding, et al, and managed to dodge angled bullets all day, but only
because I made sure I had sufficient material to allow for my usual screw
ups.

And, this morning, the painters are covering nicely for me.

--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)