I was looking at parts diagram for a 2002 Unisaw that I located that
didn't have a blade guard or splitter. I was surprised. From the parts
diagram it looks like a real pain to remove the splitter (2 screws,
sideways?). Not only that it would cost $150 to obtain this part.
Maybe I've already deduced why it's "not present"?

Thee may be value in a riving knife instead? FWIW, this saw has a
Unifence that didn't move as smoothly as other fences I've seen, it
needed to be "palm tapped"--but that detail doesn't seem so critical.
Maybe it just needs wax? It locked solid however (though it is Aluminum
and may flex a little--you can see I've been reading! )

Looks like it may either be this saw or a new Grizzly G0691. Does
Grizzly have a "great feeling" fence or just so-so? After all is said
and done, the cost of delivery of both saws is about the same(which
improves the price of the Grizzly, relatively speaking).

Cheers,
Bill

Bill wrote:
I was looking at parts diagram for a 2002 Unisaw that I located that
didn't have a blade guard or splitter. I was surprised. From the parts
diagram it looks like a real pain to remove the splitter (2 screws,
sideways?). Not only that it would cost $150 to obtain this part.
Maybe I've already deduced why it's "not present"?

Thee may be value in a riving knife instead? FWIW, this saw has a
Unifence that didn't move as smoothly as other fences I've seen, it
needed to be "palm tapped"--but that detail doesn't seem so critical.
Maybe it just needs wax? It locked solid however (though it is Aluminum
and may flex a little--you can see I've been reading! )

Looks like it may either be this saw or a new Grizzly G0691. Does
Grizzly have a "great feeling" fence or just so-so? After all is said
and done, the cost of delivery of both saws is about the same(which
improves the price of the Grizzly, relatively speaking).

Model number? Lots of different Unisaws in the early nineties.


--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)

Swingman wrote:
Bill wrote:
I was looking at parts diagram for a 2002 Unisaw that I located that
didn't have a blade guard or splitter. I was surprised. From the parts
diagram it looks like a real pain to remove the splitter (2 screws,
sideways?). Not only that it would cost $150 to obtain this part.
Maybe I've already deduced why it's "not present"?

Thee may be value in a riving knife instead? FWIW, this saw has a
Unifence that didn't move as smoothly as other fences I've seen, it
needed to be "palm tapped"--but that detail doesn't seem so critical.
Maybe it just needs wax? It locked solid however (though it is Aluminum
and may flex a little--you can see I've been reading! )

Looks like it may either be this saw or a new Grizzly G0691. Does
Grizzly have a "great feeling" fence or just so-so? After all is said
and done, the cost of delivery of both saws is about the same(which
improves the price of the Grizzly, relatively speaking).

Model number? Lots of different Unisaws in the early nineties.


-Since- the early nineties.

--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)

Bill wrote:
I was looking at parts diagram for a 2002 Unisaw that I located that
didn't have a blade guard or splitter.

Thee may be value in a riving knife instead? FWIW, this saw has a
Unifence that didn't move as smoothly as other fences I've seen, it
needed to be "palm tapped"--but that detail doesn't seem so critical.
Maybe it just needs wax? It locked solid however (though it is Aluminum
and may flex a little--you can see I've been reading!

Don't let the Unifence deter you. Very flexible:

http://www.amazon.com/Uni-t-fence-Ta.../dp/B001LYHYH6

Works great with the delta Unifence. Been using one for ten years and
recommend it. Great for jigs and easy add ons, like sacrificial fences.
Only caveat is that the Unifence doesn't work well with "hold downs" (board
buddies), which I don't use in any event.

--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)

Swingman wrote:
Bill wrote:
I was looking at parts diagram for a 2002 Unisaw that I located that
didn't have a blade guard or splitter. I was surprised. From the parts
diagram it looks like a real pain to remove the splitter (2 screws,
sideways?). Not only that it would cost $150 to obtain this part.
Maybe I've already deduced why it's "not present"?

Thee may be value in a riving knife instead? FWIW, this saw has a
Unifence that didn't move as smoothly as other fences I've seen, it
needed to be "palm tapped"--but that detail doesn't seem so critical.
Maybe it just needs wax? It locked solid however (though it is Aluminum
and may flex a little--you can see I've been reading! )

Looks like it may either be this saw or a new Grizzly G0691. Does
Grizzly have a "great feeling" fence or just so-so? After all is said
and done, the cost of delivery of both saws is about the same(which
improves the price of the Grizzly, relatively speaking).
Model number? Lots of different Unisaws in the early nineties.


The model number on the cabinet is 36-829, which I've since learned is
the model number of the *cabinet*. %-)
The serial number begins 02B, which places it in February, 2002 I think.
It's not a "Platinum edition", it's plain, but it has a little sticker
"USA stripes" on the lower right.
Electric is on left side, motor cover on right side (underneath, not on
the outside), saw is RT.
It's 83" long with Unifence. Based on the date (2002), I think it's
Model 36-841.

Swingman wrote:
Bill wrote:
I was looking at parts diagram for a 2002 Unisaw that I located that
didn't have a blade guard or splitter.

Thee may be value in a riving knife instead? FWIW, this saw has a
Unifence that didn't move as smoothly as other fences I've seen, it
needed to be "palm tapped"--but that detail doesn't seem so critical.
Maybe it just needs wax? It locked solid however (though it is Aluminum
and may flex a little--you can see I've been reading!
Don't let the Unifence deter you. Very flexible:

http://www.amazon.com/Uni-t-fence-Ta.../dp/B001LYHYH6
Thanks, I save a link to that. The product reviews back you up.


Works great with the delta Unifence. Been using one for ten years and
recommend it. Great for jigs and easy add ons, like sacrificial fences.
Only caveat is that the Unifence doesn't work well with "hold downs" (board
buddies), which I don't use in any event.

On 11/25/2013 9:05 PM, Bill wrote:
Based on the date (2002), I think it's Model 36-841.

Yep, that shows a different splitter than mine. Mine is a one knob
affair that goes off and on in less than ten seconds.

Since I don't use the blade guard, but I do use the splitter, I cut the
kickback pawls off the splitter and made it short enough that I can
leave it on for sled crosscuts, which is about 95% of crosscutting I do
in the shop.

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...16674541872338

And it still provides ample kickback protection for rip cuts.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
google.com/+KarlCaillouet
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 11/26/2013 8:23 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 11/25/2013 9:05 PM, Bill wrote:
Based on the date (2002), I think it's Model 36-841.

Yep, that shows a different splitter than mine. Mine is a one knob
affair that goes off and on in less than ten seconds.

Since I don't use the blade guard, but I do use the splitter, I cut the
kickback pawls off the splitter and made it short enough that I can
leave it on for sled crosscuts, which is about 95% of crosscutting I do
in the shop.

No redirect

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...67454187233 8


And it still provides ample kickback protection for rip cuts.



--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
google.com/+KarlCaillouet
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 11/26/2013 9:23 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 11/25/2013 9:05 PM, Bill wrote:
Based on the date (2002), I think it's Model 36-841.

Yep, that shows a different splitter than mine. Mine is a one knob
affair that goes off and on in less than ten seconds.

Since I don't use the blade guard, but I do use the splitter, I cut the
kickback pawls off the splitter and made it short enough that I can
leave it on for sled crosscuts, which is about 95% of crosscutting I do
in the shop.

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...16674541872338


And it still provides ample kickback protection for rip cuts.


Thanks for the pic. I will look closer next time I see the saw. I will
bring a small flashlight too! : )

Swingman wrote:

Since I don't use the blade guard, but I do use the splitter, I cut
the kickback pawls off the splitter and made it short enough that I
can leave it on for sled crosscuts, which is about 95% of
crosscutting I do in the shop.

No redirect

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...67454187233 8



Karl - how deep is your sled (front to back)? I'm thinking of a sled as I
get older and wiser and have been mulling over just how deep to build one.

--

-Mike-

On 11/26/2013 11:43 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Swingman wrote:

Since I don't use the blade guard, but I do use the splitter, I cut
the kickback pawls off the splitter and made it short enough that I
can leave it on for sled crosscuts, which is about 95% of
crosscutting I do in the shop.

No redirect

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...67454187233 8


Karl - how deep is your sled (front to back)? I'm thinking of a sled as I
get older and wiser and have been mulling over just how deep to build one.

I have a few of various sizes. The one in the photo I use the most and
will cut a 13" wide panel, so it is about 13 1/4" deep.

I chose that dimension specifically because it is comfortable to use,
not unwieldy, works well with the width of the front edge of the table
saw table to the blade, can be stored under the front rail of table saw,
and allows me to cut, among less wide parts, wall cabinet end panels,
which are generally a standard 11 1/2" (FF) to 12" (Frameless) wide.

I do have much bigger ones, for larger panel crosscuts, miter cuts, and
dado cuts, but that one is used almost exclusively for all shop
crosscuts that will fit in it.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
google.com/+KarlCaillouet
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On Mon, 25 Nov 2013 20:33:29 -0500, Bill
wrote:

I was looking at parts diagram for a 2002 Unisaw that I located that
didn't have a blade guard or splitter. I was surprised. From the parts
diagram it looks like a real pain to remove the splitter (2 screws,
sideways?).
My splitter is like that, 2 bolts. Now they are wingnuts. Inside was.
another bolt to loosen/tighten; now it is a cam clamp.


Not only that it would cost $150 to obtain this part.
Maybe I've already deduced why it's "not present"?

Thee may be value in a riving knife instead? FWIW, this saw has a
Unifence that didn't move as smoothly as other fences I've seen, it
needed to be "palm tapped"--but that detail doesn't seem so critical.
Maybe it just needs wax? It locked solid however (though it is Aluminum
and may flex a little--you can see I've been reading! )

Riving knife? Much safer than a splitter because it always hugs the
blade. You are aware that you can't retrofit a riving knife to a saw
that came without one? Unless you manage to fabricate it yourself
somehow. Which would then void your "warranty".

You can improve on the stock splitter with the Biesemeyer aftermarket
device assuming it works on your saw:

http://www.amazon.com/Biesemeyer-78-.../dp/B000022613

Or a splitter/blade guard combo from Lee Styron might be just the
ticket for you:

http://leestyron.com/


Looks like it may either be this saw or a new Grizzly G0691. Does
Grizzly have a "great feeling" fence or just so-so? After all is said
and done, the cost of delivery of both saws is about the same(which
improves the price of the Grizzly, relatively speaking).

From viewing their web site, the Grizzly fence looks to have been
re-engineered from the one on my G1023. My lever handle is roughly
cast, the pic looks like a nicer looking arm. I would rate my fence as
"OK". It is quite solid. Waxing the table, rails, and pads on the
fence makes all the difference in terms of smooth sliding.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/entry.ph...y-G0691-Review

Jim

On 11/26/2013 12:30 PM, Jim Weisgram wrote:

Riving knife? Much safer than a splitter because it always hugs the
blade. You are aware that you can't retrofit a riving knife to a saw
that came without one? Unless you manage to fabricate it yourself
somehow. Which would then void your "warranty".

Yep, you can:

http://theborkstore.com/

http://s20.photobucket.com/user/bacs...12004.mp4.html

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
google.com/+KarlCaillouet
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On Tue, 26 Nov 2013 08:23:12 -0600, Swingman wrote:

On 11/25/2013 9:05 PM, Bill wrote:
Based on the date (2002), I think it's Model 36-841.

Yep, that shows a different splitter than mine. Mine is a one knob
affair that goes off and on in less than ten seconds.

Since I don't use the blade guard, but I do use the splitter, I cut the
kickback pawls off the splitter and made it short enough that I can
leave it on for sled crosscuts, which is about 95% of crosscutting I do
in the shop.

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...16674541872338

And it still provides ample kickback protection for rip cuts.

I've got a late 90's Unisaw with the the Besemeyer fence and overhead
guard with the same splitter. Looking at the manual for the overhead
guard it looks like the splitter and the thumb nut set up are
available parts that came with the overhead guard.

Mike M

Swingman wrote:
On 11/26/2013 11:43 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Swingman wrote:

Since I don't use the blade guard, but I do use the splitter, I cut
the kickback pawls off the splitter and made it short enough that I
can leave it on for sled crosscuts, which is about 95% of
crosscutting I do in the shop.

No redirect

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...67454187233 8



Karl - how deep is your sled (front to back)? I'm thinking of a sled
as I
get older and wiser and have been mulling over just how deep to build
one.

I have a few of various sizes. The one in the photo I use the most and
will cut a 13" wide panel, so it is about 13 1/4" deep.

Look at the splitter on the 2002 (look towards the bottom of the pdf).
Was it a new innovation at the time?

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/Splitter.pdf

Bill




I chose that dimension specifically because it is comfortable to use,
not unwieldy, works well with the width of the front edge of the table
saw table to the blade, can be stored under the front rail of table
saw, and allows me to cut, among less wide parts, wall cabinet end
panels, which are generally a standard 11 1/2" (FF) to 12" (Frameless)
wide.

I do have much bigger ones, for larger panel crosscuts, miter cuts,
and dado cuts, but that one is used almost exclusively for all shop
crosscuts that will fit in it.

On 11/26/2013 1:43 PM, Bill wrote:
Look at the splitter on the 2002 (look towards the bottom of the pdf).
Was it a new innovation at the time?

I think Mike M is correct. I bought the saw without an overhead guard,
purchased and installed one later, but I do not recall exactly the
splitter setup that came stock ... been a long time.

Which means that somewhere in this shop is another splitter? And where,
beats the helloutta me.

I'll have to get the manuals down from a top shelf and take a look.

I installed the overhead guard, a two man job, by myself, and ended up
with 13 stitches in my right thumb during the installation.

That I do remember, which may be why I have forgotten what came before.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
google.com/+KarlCaillouet
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

Swingman wrote:
On 11/26/2013 1:43 PM, Bill wrote:
Look at the splitter on the 2002 (look towards the bottom of the pdf).
Was it a new innovation at the time?

I think Mike M is correct. I bought the saw without an overhead guard,
purchased and installed one later, but I do not recall exactly the
splitter setup that came stock ... been a long time.

Which means that somewhere in this shop is another splitter? And
where, beats the helloutta me.

I'll have to get the manuals down from a top shelf and take a look.

I installed the overhead guard, a two man job, by myself, and ended up
with 13 stitches in my right thumb during the installation.

OUCH! : (


That I do remember, which may be why I have forgotten what came
before.

Swingman wrote:

I have a few of various sizes. The one in the photo I use the most and
will cut a 13" wide panel, so it is about 13 1/4" deep.

I chose that dimension specifically because it is comfortable to use,
not unwieldy, works well with the width of the front edge of the table
saw table to the blade, can be stored under the front rail of table
saw, and allows me to cut, among less wide parts, wall cabinet end
panels, which are generally a standard 11 1/2" (FF) to 12"
(Frameless) wide.
I do have much bigger ones, for larger panel crosscuts, miter cuts,
and dado cuts, but that one is used almost exclusively for all shop
crosscuts that will fit in it.

Thank you! That is a perfect answer. I know I'll grow my arsenal, but I
was looking for that one starting point. Very helpful - thanks again.

--

-Mike-

Jim Weisgram wrote:


Riving knife? Much safer than a splitter because it always hugs the
blade. You are aware that you can't retrofit a riving knife to a saw
that came without one? Unless you manage to fabricate it yourself
somehow. Which would then void your "warranty".


Indeed - much safer than a splitter. Void your warranty? Not at all
necessarily. Most older saws don't even have a warrnaty in place, but even
for newer saws that my have one, installing a riving knife need not
necessarily void the warranty.


--

-Mike-

Bill wrote:
Swingman wrote:
On 11/26/2013 11:43 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Swingman wrote:

Since I don't use the blade guard, but I do use the splitter, I
cut the kickback pawls off the splitter and made it short enough
that I can leave it on for sled crosscuts, which is about 95% of
crosscutting I do in the shop.

No redirect

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...67454187233 8



Karl - how deep is your sled (front to back)? I'm thinking of a
sled as I
get older and wiser and have been mulling over just how deep to
build one.

I have a few of various sizes. The one in the photo I use the most
and will cut a 13" wide panel, so it is about 13 1/4" deep.

Look at the splitter on the 2002 (look towards the bottom of the pdf).
Was it a new innovation at the time?

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/Splitter.pdf


Not a new innovation at all (even at the time) Bill - in fact, quite the
opposite. But a splitter is different than what I asked Karl about in the
above referenced quote. Perhaps you confused an earlier post from Karl
about splitters.

--

-Mike-

Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:
Swingman wrote:
On 11/26/2013 11:43 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Swingman wrote:

Since I don't use the blade guard, but I do use the splitter, I
cut the kickback pawls off the splitter and made it short enough
that I can leave it on for sled crosscuts, which is about 95% of
crosscutting I do in the shop.
No redirect

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...67454187233 8

Karl - how deep is your sled (front to back)? I'm thinking of a
sled as I
get older and wiser and have been mulling over just how deep to
build one.
I have a few of various sizes. The one in the photo I use the most
and will cut a 13" wide panel, so it is about 13 1/4" deep.

Look at the splitter on the 2002 (look towards the bottom of the pdf).
Was it a new innovation at the time?

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/Splitter.pdf

Not a new innovation at all (even at the time) Bill - in fact, quite the
opposite. But a splitter is different than what I asked Karl about in the
above referenced quote. Perhaps you confused an earlier post from Karl
about splitters.

Sorry, I put it under the link he posted. I was not meaning to tromp on
your conversation.

On Tue, 26 Nov 2013 15:19:46 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:

Jim Weisgram wrote:


Riving knife? Much safer than a splitter because it always hugs the
blade. You are aware that you can't retrofit a riving knife to a saw
that came without one? Unless you manage to fabricate it yourself
somehow. Which would then void your "warranty".


Indeed - much safer than a splitter. Void your warranty? Not at all
necessarily. Most older saws don't even have a warrnaty in place, but even
for newer saws that my have one, installing a riving knife need not
necessarily void the warranty.

Sorry. Warranty in quotes was intended to indicate my tongue was
firmly stuck to one of my cheeks. Not saying which one.

Bill wrote:
I was looking at parts diagram for a 2002 Unisaw that I located that
didn't have a blade guard or splitter. ...

Cheers,
Bill

As it turns out, the stand for the saw is actually setting on it's table
top. %-)

Am I likely to have much success moving things around with a crowbar and
some pieces of twobyfour?

I have the names of some folks who may be able to contract for help if I
am the high bidder. I'm just not sure if I trust them (to not lift it
by the top).

I'm planning for at least 45 seconds of excitement for tomorrow! : )
No! Not a hot date.

Bill

On Mon, 25 Nov 2013 20:33:29 -0500, Bill
wrote:

I was looking at parts diagram for a 2002 Unisaw that I located that
didn't have a blade guard or splitter. I was surprised. From the parts
diagram it looks like a real pain to remove the splitter (2 screws,
sideways?). Not only that it would cost $150 to obtain this part.
Maybe I've already deduced why it's "not present"?

A riving knife for it doesn't cost that much. I have a 2009 Unisaw
and rarely use the blade giard. The knife is great, though.

Thee may be value in a riving knife instead? FWIW, this saw has a
Unifence that didn't move as smoothly as other fences I've seen, it
needed to be "palm tapped"--but that detail doesn't seem so critical.
Maybe it just needs wax? It locked solid however (though it is Aluminum
and may flex a little--you can see I've been reading! )

Go for the knife. It's a little dodgy installing but it works great.
Which fence?

Looks like it may either be this saw or a new Grizzly G0691. Does
Grizzly have a "great feeling" fence or just so-so? After all is said
and done, the cost of delivery of both saws is about the same(which
improves the price of the Grizzly, relatively speaking).

I had the same choice in '09. The Unisaw won hands down.

On Tue, 26 Nov 2013 20:25:20 -0500, Bill
wrote:

Bill wrote:
I was looking at parts diagram for a 2002 Unisaw that I located that
didn't have a blade guard or splitter. ...

Cheers,
Bill

As it turns out, the stand for the saw is actually setting on it's table
top. %-)

Am I likely to have much success moving things around with a crowbar and
some pieces of twobyfour?

Just pick it up!

Seriously, you should be able to flip it over without too much
trouble. Try pushing sideways on the stand. I wouldn't put a crowbar
to the top.


I have the names of some folks who may be able to contract for help if I
am the high bidder. I'm just not sure if I trust them (to not lift it
by the top).

You shouldn't need to lift it at all. Rock it back and forth. Use
2x4 shims to get it high enough to get it on a dolly.

I'm planning for at least 45 seconds of excitement for tomorrow! : )
No! Not a hot date.

Glutton!

Bill wrote:
I was looking at parts diagram for a 2002 Unisaw. snip
It just takes one other person to makes an auction difficult, and he
was there (he probably thinking the same thing)! We had to go from $500
to $1050 before I convinced this person I was pretty serious about
getting a saw! And that's the dollar amount I payed--$1050+10% +7%
(sales tax), in case anyone is curious. I felt like I didn't want to do
any more saw shopping--and this one was only about 5 miles from home--so
I thought beforehand that it wasn't going to get any easier. I met a
kind person who helped me get the saw home on his trailer--I had talked
with him for 10 or 15 minutes before they got to auctioning the
machinery. While I was collecting parts in a plastic garbage bag that I
brought with me for the occasion, he asked me if I needed any help
moving the saw. And I said yes, please. And he said, where's your truck.
And I said, I don't have a truck. Can we put in in yours?--I said I
live close by and I will be glad to give you $100 to help me. His
trailer featured a hand-powered winch-which was handy pulling it up and
letting it down some improvised ramps. He did a lot of work though,
securing the saw. He got he out of a "tough jam". I thanked him and
tried to hand him $100, buy him a tank or two of gas, etc. but he would
only take $5 for gas. A nice guy who made a real difference, like many
of you folks.

Bill

On Wed, 27 Nov 2013 19:33:43 -0500, Bill
wrote:

Bill wrote:
I was looking at parts diagram for a 2002 Unisaw. snip
It just takes one other person to makes an auction difficult, and he
was there (he probably thinking the same thing)! We had to go from $500
to $1050 before I convinced this person I was pretty serious about
getting a saw! And that's the dollar amount I payed--$1050+10% +7%
(sales tax), in case anyone is curious. I felt like I didn't want to do
any more saw shopping--and this one was only about 5 miles from home--so
I thought beforehand that it wasn't going to get any easier. I met a
kind person who helped me get the saw home on his trailer--I had talked
with him for 10 or 15 minutes before they got to auctioning the
machinery. While I was collecting parts in a plastic garbage bag that I
brought with me for the occasion, he asked me if I needed any help
moving the saw. And I said yes, please. And he said, where's your truck.
And I said, I don't have a truck. Can we put in in yours?--I said I
live close by and I will be glad to give you $100 to help me. His
trailer featured a hand-powered winch-which was handy pulling it up and
letting it down some improvised ramps. He did a lot of work though,
securing the saw. He got he out of a "tough jam". I thanked him and
tried to hand him $100, buy him a tank or two of gas, etc. but he would
only take $5 for gas. A nice guy who made a real difference, like many
of you folks.

Sounds like a really nice guy. Do you have his name/address? You
might try sending him something for the holidays (something a little
nicer than a fruitcake ;-), with a note thanking him again.

You'll love the saw. Now you need a good miter gauge (the Delta
sucks) and a few Forrest blades. ;-)

On Wednesday, November 27, 2013 6:33:43 PM UTC-6, Bill wrote:
Bill wrote: I was looking at parts diagram for a 2002 Unisaw. snip It just takes one other person to makes an auction difficult, and he was there (he probably thinking the same thing)! We had to go from $500 to $1050 before I convinced this person I was pretty serious about getting a saw! And that's the dollar amount I payed--$1050+10% +7% (sales tax), in case anyone is curious. I felt like I didn't want to do any more saw shopping--and this one was only about 5 miles from home--so I thought beforehand that it wasn't going to get any easier. I met a kind person who helped me get the saw home on his trailer--I had talked with him for 10 or 15 minutes before they got to auctioning the machinery. While I was collecting parts in a plastic garbage bag that I brought with me for the occasion, he asked me if I needed any help moving the saw. And I said yes, please. And he said, where's your truck. And I said, I don't have a truck. Can we put in in yours?--I said I live close by and I will be glad to give you $100 to help me. His trailer featured a hand-powered winch-which was handy pulling it up and letting it down some improvised ramps. He did a lot of work though, securing the saw.. He got he out of a "tough jam". I thanked him and tried to hand him $100, buy him a tank or two of gas, etc. but he would only take $5 for gas. A nice guy who made a real difference, like many of you folks. Bill

The only problem I see with this post is that it's not a new thread, onto itself. Purchasing a Unisaw, with the latest model Unifence/side table, mobile base & motor cover deserves a thread all its own, with some more bragging and feel-good statements. *That extra moble base might be able to be retrofitted & used with a pending(?) jointer, too.

I'm excited for you, Bill. ^5

Sonny

wrote:
On Wed, 27 Nov 2013 19:33:43 -0500, Bill
wrote:

Bill wrote:
I was looking at parts diagram for a 2002 Unisaw. snip
It just takes one other person to makes an auction difficult, and he
was there (he probably thinking the same thing)! We had to go from $500
to $1050 before I convinced this person I was pretty serious about
getting a saw! And that's the dollar amount I payed--$1050+10% +7%
(sales tax), in case anyone is curious. I felt like I didn't want to do
any more saw shopping--and this one was only about 5 miles from home--so
I thought beforehand that it wasn't going to get any easier. I met a
kind person who helped me get the saw home on his trailer--I had talked
with him for 10 or 15 minutes before they got to auctioning the
machinery. While I was collecting parts in a plastic garbage bag that I
brought with me for the occasion, he asked me if I needed any help
moving the saw. And I said yes, please. And he said, where's your truck.
And I said, I don't have a truck. Can we put in in yours?--I said I
live close by and I will be glad to give you $100 to help me. His
trailer featured a hand-powered winch-which was handy pulling it up and
letting it down some improvised ramps. He did a lot of work though,
securing the saw. He got he out of a "tough jam". I thanked him and
tried to hand him $100, buy him a tank or two of gas, etc. but he would
only take $5 for gas. A nice guy who made a real difference, like many
of you folks.
Sounds like a really nice guy. Do you have his name/address? You
might try sending him something for the holidays (something a little
nicer than a fruitcake ;-), with a note thanking him again.
Yes, you don't need to tell me that. Who doesn't like fruitcake?



You'll love the saw. Now you need a good miter gauge (the Delta
sucks) and a few Forrest blades. ;-)
I'm glad because I don't have a miter guage. The saw guard, with it's
splitter, and 3 insert plates (in all) were found before the sale.
Also got an extra mobile stand out of the deal! What can I buy for it,
Mike M.? : )

Bill wrote:
Bill wrote:
. He got he out of a "tough jam". I thanked him and tried to hand him
$100, buy him a tank or two of gas, etc. but he would only take $5 for
gas. A nice guy who made a real difference, like many of you folks.


Great story ... this country is full of folks like that, you just don't
hear about them on the evening news. Sounds like a great start to
Thanksgiving story. Count those blessings.

--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)

On Wed, 27 Nov 2013 19:56:11 -0500, Bill
wrote:

wrote:
On Wed, 27 Nov 2013 19:33:43 -0500, Bill
wrote:

Bill wrote:
I was looking at parts diagram for a 2002 Unisaw. snip
It just takes one other person to makes an auction difficult, and he
was there (he probably thinking the same thing)! We had to go from $500
to $1050 before I convinced this person I was pretty serious about
getting a saw! And that's the dollar amount I payed--$1050+10% +7%
(sales tax), in case anyone is curious. I felt like I didn't want to do
any more saw shopping--and this one was only about 5 miles from home--so
I thought beforehand that it wasn't going to get any easier. I met a
kind person who helped me get the saw home on his trailer--I had talked
with him for 10 or 15 minutes before they got to auctioning the
machinery. While I was collecting parts in a plastic garbage bag that I
brought with me for the occasion, he asked me if I needed any help
moving the saw. And I said yes, please. And he said, where's your truck.
And I said, I don't have a truck. Can we put in in yours?--I said I
live close by and I will be glad to give you $100 to help me. His
trailer featured a hand-powered winch-which was handy pulling it up and
letting it down some improvised ramps. He did a lot of work though,
securing the saw. He got he out of a "tough jam". I thanked him and
tried to hand him $100, buy him a tank or two of gas, etc. but he would
only take $5 for gas. A nice guy who made a real difference, like many
of you folks.
Sounds like a really nice guy. Do you have his name/address? You
might try sending him something for the holidays (something a little
nicer than a fruitcake ;-), with a note thanking him again.
Yes, you don't need to tell me that. Who doesn't like fruitcake?

Everyone likes it so much they pass it on to their friends!

You'll love the saw. Now you need a good miter gauge (the Delta
sucks) and a few Forrest blades. ;-)
I'm glad because I don't have a miter guage. The saw guard, with it's
splitter, and 3 insert plates (in all) were found before the sale.

I find the guard almost useless. If I'm doing nothing but ripping for
a week, I might think about putting it on. I don't like not being
able to see the blade clearly but the dust collector works better with
it on. ;-) I use the knife whenever I'm making through cuts, though.

You'll use the inserts. You'll probably want to buy more, if you do a
lot of dado cuts. Did I mention that Forrest makes a nice dado set?
;-)

I really like my JessEm miter gauge (JessEm makes great stuff). The
Incra 1000HD is really nice, too, though not as solid.

Also got an extra mobile stand out of the deal! What can I buy for it,
Mike M.? : )

Use it for another tool? I don't think you'd get enough for it to
bother selling it.

wrote:
You'll use the inserts. You'll probably want to buy more, if you do a
lot of dado cuts. Did I mention that Forrest makes a nice dado set?
;-)
I already bought a Freud dado set, with Rockler's 20% off coupon a few
months ago--anticipating that I would one day own a saw. What I need is
a suitable 230W adapter/plug-inlet for the wall. The one I already
purchased doesn't fit the horizontally-slotted plug. That's the sort of
problem you may run into with anticipatory purchases...


I really like my JessEm miter gauge (JessEm makes great stuff). The
Incra 1000HD is really nice, too, though not as solid.
Amazon had the Incra 1000HD on sale for about $110 during last Christmas
season. I'll let you know if I see it.
If you doubt me, check camelcamelcamel.com (I haven't checked, I may be
off by a few dollars).

Bill

On 11/27/2013 7:33 PM, Bill wrote:
Bill wrote:
I was looking at parts diagram for a 2002 Unisaw. snip
It just takes one other person to makes an auction difficult, and he
was there (he probably thinking the same thing)! We had to go from $500
to $1050 before I convinced this person I was pretty serious about
getting a saw! And that's the dollar amount I payed--$1050+10% +7%
(sales tax), in case anyone is curious. I felt like I didn't want to do
any more saw shopping--and this one was only about 5 miles from home--so
I thought beforehand that it wasn't going to get any easier. I met a
kind person who helped me get the saw home on his trailer--I had talked
with him for 10 or 15 minutes before they got to auctioning the
machinery. While I was collecting parts in a plastic garbage bag that I
brought with me for the occasion, he asked me if I needed any help
moving the saw. And I said yes, please. And he said, where's your truck.
And I said, I don't have a truck. Can we put in in yours?--I said I
live close by and I will be glad to give you $100 to help me. His
trailer featured a hand-powered winch-which was handy pulling it up and
letting it down some improvised ramps. He did a lot of work though,
securing the saw. He got he out of a "tough jam". I thanked him and
tried to hand him $100, buy him a tank or two of gas, etc. but he would
only take $5 for gas. A nice guy who made a real difference, like many
of you folks.

Bill

Congratulations Bill. Good luck with your new saw.
Give it a thorough look over. Clean it up.. you can use 400 to 600 wet
dry sandpaper, for the top, or a green scotch brite.. cut it round and
use your random orbital sander...
wax it using butcher wax and enjoy.

Build yourself a cross cut sled for 90degree cuts and look for the incra
miter on sale for angled cuts.

And go make something.. build some jigs to learn how to use the tool
before you tackle your first big project.

--
Jeff

Bill wrote:
Bill wrote:
I was looking at parts diagram for a 2002 Unisaw. snip
It just takes one other person to makes an auction difficult, and he
was there (he probably thinking the same thing)! We had to go from
$500 to $1050 before I convinced this person I was pretty serious
about getting a saw! And that's the dollar amount I payed--$1050+10%
+7% (sales tax), in case anyone is curious. I felt like I didn't
want to do any more saw shopping--and this one was only about 5 miles
from home--so I thought beforehand that it wasn't going to get any
easier. I met a kind person who helped me get the saw home on his
trailer--I had talked with him for 10 or 15 minutes before they got
to auctioning the machinery. While I was collecting parts in a
plastic garbage bag that I brought with me for the occasion, he asked
me if I needed any help moving the saw. And I said yes, please. And
he said, where's your truck. And I said, I don't have a truck. Can
we put in in yours?--I said I live close by and I will be glad to
give you $100 to help me. His trailer featured a hand-powered
winch-which was handy pulling it up and letting it down some
improvised ramps. He did a lot of work though, securing the saw. He
got he out of a "tough jam". I thanked him and tried to hand him
$100, buy him a tank or two of gas, etc. but he would only take $5
for gas. A nice guy who made a real difference, like many of you
folks.
Bill

Great day Bill!

--

-Mike-

Bill wrote:

I'm glad because I don't have a miter guage. The saw guard, with
it's splitter, and 3 insert plates (in all) were found before the
sale. Also got an extra mobile stand out of the deal! What can I buy
for it, Mike M.? : )

Buy for it? Hell, you did great as it is. The question you should be
asking is more like "what other tool can I go out and buy now that I saved
all this money on these parts they found?". You don't have to rush
decisions like this...

--

-Mike-

woodchucker wrote:
Congratulations Bill. Good luck with your new saw.

Thank you!

Give it a thorough look over. Clean it up..
Yes, it needs a bit of cleaning up, and that will help me to familiarize
myself with it. I should read the manual too, because I learned some
things while I was scanning it. In particular that the blades should be
locked before the saw is turned on. It makes sense, but I didn't know
that already. I have some 400 and 600 wet or dry. Thank you for
mentioning that (below).


you can use 400 to 600 wet dry sandpaper, for the top, or a green
scotch brite.. cut it round and use your random orbital sander...
wax it using butcher wax and enjoy.

Build yourself a cross cut sled for 90degree cuts and look for the
incra miter on sale for angled cuts.

And go make something.. build some jigs to learn how to use the tool
before you tackle your first big project.

Yes, I will!

Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:

I'm glad because I don't have a miter guage. The saw guard, with
it's splitter, and 3 insert plates (in all) were found before the
sale. Also got an extra mobile stand out of the deal! What can I buy
for it, Mike M.? : )
Buy for it? Hell, you did great as it is. The question you should be
asking is more like "what other tool can I go out and buy now that I saved
all this money on these parts they found?".

: )

You don't have to rush
decisions like this...

Ah for the good old days, when if you had need of a part for a Delta
tool you would call them up, get a good old boy on the phone who would
know in about 60 seconds of conversation exactly what you needed, and
when you asked him the price and how much to ship, he's day, don't
worry about it, we;ll send you 2 of them for free!

They don't make customer service like they used too... Or the saws either
unfortunately.


--
The best argument against democracy is a five-minute conversation
with the average voter. (Winston Churchill)

Larry W. - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org

Bill wrote:

I was looking at parts diagram for a 2002 Unisaw that I located that
didn't have a blade guard or splitter. I was surprised.
-------------------------------------------------------
http://tinyurl.com/3uxteay

Have used this device on a Unisaw and it not only functional, but easy
to use.

Easy to install, easy to remove when you don't need it.

Lew

On Wednesday, November 27, 2013 9:47:25 PM UTC-6, Bill wrote:
I should read the manual too, because I learned some things while I was scanning it. In particular that the blades should be locked before the saw is turned on.

And don't torque the lock knobs (height and angle) really tight. Firm tightening, but not super tight. You'll learn and get the feel for sufficient tightening. With my older '81 saw, the "tightening" of the heigth knob has worn, a bit, probably from over tightening.

Three finger firm tightening, if this defines my experience, reasonably.

Sonny