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#81
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2002 Unisaw
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#82
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2002 Unisaw
Bill wrote:
I was looking at parts diagram for a 2002 Unisaw that I located that didn't have a blade guard or splitter. The saw made the 5 mile ride home without incident, but, to be honest, it practically fell over twice (never ALL the way over--but beyond 45-degrees) by the time it was in it's mobile base yesterday! : ) Both of those were "pretty interesting" moments. In the first one I was alone. Now I'm looking at *blade guards*. While exploring some of my options, I noticed that ShopNotes featured an article on building a "Dust-Free Blade Guard" in 1997 (Volume 16, Issue 92). It seems to be a pretty popular on the Internet. Is it possible someone has a version of the article that they might post to abpw? I am a subscriber to the magazine but I don't save most copies. Thanks, Bill |
#83
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2002 Unisaw
On 12/16/2013 11:14 PM, Bill wrote:
Bill wrote: I was looking at parts diagram for a 2002 Unisaw that I located that didn't have a blade guard or splitter. The saw made the 5 mile ride home without incident, but, to be honest, it practically fell over twice (never ALL the way over--but beyond 45-degrees) by the time it was in it's mobile base yesterday! : ) Both of those were "pretty interesting" moments. In the first one I was alone. Now I'm looking at *blade guards*. While exploring some of my options, I noticed that ShopNotes featured an article on building a "Dust-Free Blade Guard" in 1997 (Volume 16, Issue 92). It seems to be a pretty popular on the Internet. Is it possible someone has a version of the article that they might post to abpw? I am a subscriber to the magazine but I don't save most copies. Thanks, Bill I can help you out on that Bill, I will not post it but would be happy to pdf you a copy directly to you. BTY it is a two part article, one for the guard nd a short one for the guard support. If you are interested send me an e-mail. |
#84
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2002 Unisaw
On Monday, December 16, 2013 11:14:43 PM UTC-6, Bill wrote:
Bill wrote: ShopNotes "Dust-Free Blade Guard" in 1997 (Volume 16, Issue 92). Depending on your download speed, it may take a few minutes to download the whole issue. http://metosexpo.free.fr/extra/wood_...20Makeover.pdf Sonny |
#85
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2002 Unisaw
On 12/17/2013 11:24 AM, Sonny wrote:
On Monday, December 16, 2013 11:14:43 PM UTC-6, Bill wrote: Bill wrote: ShopNotes "Dust-Free Blade Guard" in 1997 (Volume 16, Issue 92). Depending on your download speed, it may take a few minutes to download the whole issue. http://metosexpo.free.fr/extra/wood_...20Makeover.pdf Sonny Bill, I'll see if I can find another article for you. I don't remember what mag, but if I still have it, I'll scan and send it. Made of plexiglass or lexan which allows you to see in, and includes a full 2" vac.. The Shopnotes looks like a crevise tool which I don't believe would be as good, I could be wrong. -- Jeff |
#86
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2002 Unisaw
On 12/17/2013 11:24 AM, Sonny wrote:
On Monday, December 16, 2013 11:14:43 PM UTC-6, Bill wrote: Bill wrote: ShopNotes "Dust-Free Blade Guard" in 1997 (Volume 16, Issue 92). Depending on your download speed, it may take a few minutes to download the whole issue. http://metosexpo.free.fr/extra/wood_...20Makeover.pdf Sonny Bill, I'll see if I can find another article for you. I don't remember what mag, but if I still have it, I'll scan and send it. Made of plexiglass or lexan which allows you to see in, and includes a full 2" vac.. The Shopnotes looks like a crevise tool which I don't believe would be as good, I could be wrong. -- Jeff |
#87
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2002 Unisaw
woodchucker wrote:
On 12/17/2013 11:24 AM, Sonny wrote: On Monday, December 16, 2013 11:14:43 PM UTC-6, Bill wrote: Bill wrote: ShopNotes "Dust-Free Blade Guard" in 1997 (Volume 16, Issue 92). Depending on your download speed, it may take a few minutes to download the whole issue. http://metosexpo.free.fr/extra/wood_...20Makeover.pdf Sonny Sonny, Thank you for the download! Bill, I'll see if I can find another article for you. I don't remember what mag, but if I still have it, I'll scan and send it. Made of plexiglass or lexan which allows you to see in, and includes a full 2" vac.. The Shopnotes looks like a crevise tool which I don't believe would be as good, I could be wrong. Thanks, I'm still in the idea collection stage. I've got some EMT lying around...and I'm not afraid to bend it! ; ) |
#88
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2002 Unisaw
On Tuesday, December 17, 2013 4:27:16 PM UTC-6, Bill wrote:
Sonny, Thank you for the download! YW. Having to download 8 issues of ShopNotes, for just a few pages, seems impractical. Then, some of the left edge of the pages (discussion), on that download, were blurred. Maybe Jeff can find something better, if Leon doesn't beat him to it. If you wait a bit, after I win the MegaMillions pot, I'll buy you a blade guard of your choice, tomorrow. Sonny |
#89
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2002 Unisaw
On 12/17/2013 4:47 PM, Sonny wrote:
On Tuesday, December 17, 2013 4:27:16 PM UTC-6, Bill wrote: Sonny, Thank you for the download! YW. Having to download 8 issues of ShopNotes, for just a few pages, seems impractical. Then, some of the left edge of the pages (discussion), on that download, were blurred. Maybe Jeff can find something better, if Leon doesn't beat him to it. If you wait a bit, after I win the MegaMillions pot, I'll buy you a blade guard of your choice, tomorrow. Sonny done deal a few hours ago! ;~) |
#90
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2002 Unisaw
On 12/17/2013 5:47 PM, Sonny wrote:
On Tuesday, December 17, 2013 4:27:16 PM UTC-6, Bill wrote: Sonny, Thank you for the download! YW. Having to download 8 issues of ShopNotes, for just a few pages, seems impractical. Then, some of the left edge of the pages (discussion), on that download, were blurred. Maybe Jeff can find something better, if Leon doesn't beat him to it. If you wait a bit, after I win the MegaMillions pot, :-) I'll buy you a blade guard of your choice, tomorrow. Sonny -- Jeff |
#91
Posted to rec.woodworking
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2002 Unisaw
On 12/17/2013 6:17 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 12/17/2013 5:47 PM, Sonny wrote: On Tuesday, December 17, 2013 4:27:16 PM UTC-6, Bill wrote: Sonny, Thank you for the download! YW. Having to download 8 issues of ShopNotes, for just a few pages, seems impractical. Then, some of the left edge of the pages (discussion), on that download, were blurred. Maybe Jeff can find something better, if Leon doesn't beat him to it. If you wait a bit, after I win the MegaMillions pot, :-) I'll buy you a blade guard of your choice, tomorrow. Sonny Bill, while not much better than what Sonny had, I like the hood better. Not the arm.. I think if you marry Sonny's and this together you would likely come out with a nice unit. You might even marry some pvc into the support arm (along with the pipe for some dust extraction). See the alt binaries. -- Jeff |
#92
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Blade guard
woodchucker wrote:
Bill, while not much better than what Sonny had, I like the hood better. Not the arm.. I think if you marry Sonny's and this together you would likely come out with a nice unit. You might even marry some pvc into the support arm (along with the pipe for some dust extraction). See the alt binaries. I agree that the 2" dust collection is most-surely superior to the "trim attachment. For former design used 3/8" Lexan too (compared to 1/8"). It seems like it would even work better if the vacuum hose is attached over the rear of the blade. Barring a ceiling attachment, it seems like 2 separate configurations are required to avoid most conflicts (one from the left, and one from the right). Furthermore, it should be fast and easy to alternate between them. And it might use EMT since I have 4 or 5 pieces laying on the floor! : ) Imagine a giant C-Clamp with a "blade guard hood" attached to it. Maybe the C could just be "swung" out of the way? As many say, "The devil is in the details...". Bill |
#93
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Blade guard
Bill wrote:
woodchucker wrote: Bill, while not much better than what Sonny had, I like the hood better. Not the arm.. I think if you marry Sonny's and this together you would likely come out with a nice unit. You might even marry some pvc into the support arm (along with the pipe for some dust extraction). See the alt binaries. I agree that the 2" dust collection is most-surely superior to the "trim attachment. For former design used 3/8" Lexan too (compared to 1/8"). It seems like it would even work better if the vacuum hose is attached over the rear of the blade. Barring a ceiling attachment, it seems like 2 separate configurations are required to avoid most conflicts (one from the left, and one from the right). Furthermore, it should be fast and easy to alternate between them. And it might use EMT since I have 4 or 5 pieces laying on the floor! : ) Imagine a giant C-Clamp with a "blade guard hood" attached to it. Maybe the C could just be "swung" out of the way? As many say, "The devil is in the details...". Bill There is some inspiration to be gleaned from the one of this page of Grizzly's catalog (bottom of page): http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2013/Main/13 |
#94
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Blade guard
On 12/17/2013 7:41 PM, Bill wrote:
woodchucker wrote: Bill, while not much better than what Sonny had, I like the hood better. Not the arm.. I think if you marry Sonny's and this together you would likely come out with a nice unit. You might even marry some pvc into the support arm (along with the pipe for some dust extraction). See the alt binaries. I agree that the 2" dust collection is most-surely superior to the "trim attachment. For former design used 3/8" Lexan too (compared to 1/8"). It seems like it would even work better if the vacuum hose is attached over the rear of the blade. No, most of the dust gets thrown to you, so to the front is better. Barring a ceiling attachment, it seems like 2 separate configurations are required to avoid most conflicts (one from the left, and one from the right). Furthermore, it should be fast and easy to alternate between them. You don't need both. Most of the goods you cut will be flat. But when you are tenoning or cutting splintes the arm will be in the way. The right side attachment extending to the left is pretty standard for a reason. And it might use EMT since I have 4 or 5 pieces laying on the floor! : ) Imagine a giant C-Clamp with a "blade guard hood" attached to it. Maybe the C could just be "swung" out of the way? As many say, "The devil is in the details...". Consider large EMT so that it does the dust collection. Not your EMT that you used to wire the place. That would work for just supporting it, but consider putting the dust collection through the support just the way a store bought unit works. Attach an elbow and you are good to go. Bill -- Jeff |
#95
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Blade guard
On 12/17/2013 8:54 PM, Bill wrote:
Bill wrote: woodchucker wrote: Bill, while not much better than what Sonny had, I like the hood better. Not the arm.. I think if you marry Sonny's and this together you would likely come out with a nice unit. You might even marry some pvc into the support arm (along with the pipe for some dust extraction). See the alt binaries. I agree that the 2" dust collection is most-surely superior to the "trim attachment. For former design used 3/8" Lexan too (compared to 1/8"). It seems like it would even work better if the vacuum hose is attached over the rear of the blade. Barring a ceiling attachment, it seems like 2 separate configurations are required to avoid most conflicts (one from the left, and one from the right). Furthermore, it should be fast and easy to alternate between them. And it might use EMT since I have 4 or 5 pieces laying on the floor! : ) Imagine a giant C-Clamp with a "blade guard hood" attached to it. Maybe the C could just be "swung" out of the way? As many say, "The devil is in the details...". Bill There is some inspiration to be gleaned from the one of this page of Grizzly's catalog (bottom of page): http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2013/Main/13 Yes with one exception, the dust collection to the rear of the blade is useless. Start using your saw, and you will see 20% of the dust heads toward you, and the rest to the cabinet. I never have any dust thrown toward the outfeed area. -- Jeff |
#96
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Blade guard
woodchucker wrote:
Consider large EMT so that it does the dust collection. Not your EMT that you used to wire the place. That would work for just supporting it, but consider putting the dust collection through the support just the way a store bought unit works. Attach an elbow and you are good to go. Keep that positive attitiude! I need to read the stuff the was uploaded for me today to build my confidence back up! I felt confident for a while, then I slipped. Time to sleep on it. Cheers, Bill |
#97
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Blade guard
Bill wrote in :
There is some inspiration to be gleaned from the one of this page of Grizzly's catalog (bottom of page): http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2013/Main/13 Dust hose attaches in the wrong place. To do any good at all, the dust hose needs to attach at the *front* of the blade guard, not the rear. |
#98
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Blade guard
Doug Miller wrote:
Bill wrote in : There is some inspiration to be gleaned from the one of this page of Grizzly's catalog (bottom of page): http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2013/Main/13 Dust hose attaches in the wrong place. To do any good at all, the dust hose needs to attach at the *front* of the blade guard, not the rear. That makes sense now. How could they have got that wrong (just rhetorical question)? Thanks Doug. Bill |
#99
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Blade guard
On Tue, 17 Dec 2013 19:41:40 -0500, Bill wrote:
Imagine a giant C-Clamp with a "blade guard hood" attached to it. Maybe the C could just be "swung" out of the way? As many say, "The devil is in the details...". Sounds like the overhead guard on my 1948 Delta - but alas, no dust collection. It does have a dust chute coming out the back but it's square :-). Take a look at: http://vintagemachinery.org/photoind...l.aspx?id=3666 -- This message was for rec.woodworking - if it appears in homeownershub they ripped it off. |
#100
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Blade guard
Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Tue, 17 Dec 2013 19:41:40 -0500, Bill wrote: Imagine a giant C-Clamp with a "blade guard hood" attached to it. Maybe the C could just be "swung" out of the way? As many say, "The devil is in the details...". Sounds like the overhead guard on my 1948 Delta - but alas, no dust collection. It does have a dust chute coming out the back but it's square :-). Take a look at: http://vintagemachinery.org/photoind...l.aspx?id=3666 Now, I really appreciate the engineering that went into that! : ) Thanks! Bill |
#101
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Blade guard
Woodchucker wrote:
I think if you marry Sonny's and this together you would likely come out with a nice unit. You might even marry some pvc into the support arm (along with the pipe for some dust extraction). Jeff, I think your idea of using PVC for a dust collecting support arm has a lot of merit. One could pick up a few ideas from the support arm of this unit: http://www.pennstateind.com/library/TSGUARD_ins.pdf I can imagine getting a support structure in order using a half-a-roll of duck tape? But maybe that is cheating. ; ) Bill |
#102
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Blade guard
Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Tue, 17 Dec 2013 19:41:40 -0500, Bill wrote: Imagine a giant C-Clamp with a "blade guard hood" attached to it. Maybe the C could just be "swung" out of the way? As many say, "The devil is in the details...". Sounds like the overhead guard on my 1948 Delta - but alas, no dust collection. It does have a dust chute coming out the back but it's square :-). Take a look at: http://vintagemachinery.org/photoind...l.aspx?id=3666 Larry, Thanks for proving I wasn't completely-delusional. After posting about a "C-clamp" in the first place, I was concerned folks wouldn't have a clue about what I was talking about (and I could not have blamed them!) Bill |
#103
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Blade guard
Bill wrote in :
Woodchucker wrote: I think if you marry Sonny's and this together you would likely come out with a nice unit. You might even marry some pvc into the support arm (along with the pipe for some dust extraction). Jeff, I think your idea of using PVC for a dust collecting support arm has a lot of merit. Some merit, anyway. I tried that about a year ago; even 2" PVC is disappointingly flexible over a span of 4+ feet, and requires overhead support. :-( One could pick up a few ideas from the support arm of this unit: http://www.pennstateind.com/library/TSGUARD_ins.pdf That's what I modeled mine after (except I put the dust port in front where it belongs). I used PVC mostly for proof-of-concept, and will probably re-do it some day using EMT or RMC. |
#104
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Blade guard
Doug Miller wrote:
Bill wrote in : Woodchucker wrote: I think if you marry Sonny's and this together you would likely come out with a nice unit. You might even marry some pvc into the support arm (along with the pipe for some dust extraction). Jeff, I think your idea of using PVC for a dust collecting support arm has a lot of merit. Some merit, anyway. I tried that about a year ago; even 2" PVC is disappointingly flexible over a span of 4+ feet, and requires overhead support. Well, that is useful to know. I'm becoming sorry I didn't keep the base from an old halogen lamp. I've got a similar one right next to me, and it's base seems to be 20 pounds at least. Attaching a 3-foot length of PVC to that, I might have a structure for a blade guard in short order. If anyone is worried about safety, please don't, it's too early for that. I'm just thinking out loud (sort-of). I have the original equipment blade guard with splitter. But I upgraded the splitter to a riving knife (and that's how I got to this point). Bill One could pick up a few ideas from the support arm of this unit: http://www.pennstateind.com/library/TSGUARD_ins.pdf That's what I modeled mine after (except I put the dust port in front where it belongs). I used PVC mostly for proof-of-concept, and will probably re-do it some day using EMT or RMC. |
#105
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Blade guard
On 12/18/2013 10:48 AM, Bill wrote:
Doug Miller wrote: Bill wrote in : There is some inspiration to be gleaned from the one of this page of Grizzly's catalog (bottom of page): http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2013/Main/13 Dust hose attaches in the wrong place. To do any good at all, the dust hose needs to attach at the *front* of the blade guard, not the rear. That makes sense now. How could they have got that wrong (just rhetorical question)? Thanks Doug. Bill Well It may not be wrong, SawStop claims extreme efficiency with their guard and the hose is at the rear. It all depends on the turbulence and flow inside the guard. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJEi_lWGeLs I have the SawStop but don't use the guard at all, If I was worried about the little bit that comes out on top of the table I would probably use the guard but IMHO it is not enough to worry about since you are not going to get all of it anyway. But having said all of that, the vast majority of the saw dust goes down inside the saw. Your sander, if used with out a vacuum, might produce more dust than the top side of the saw with out guard dust collection. Just saying, it might be a lot of trouble to try to catch 10% of the dust on top. |
#106
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Blade guard
Leon wrote:
On 12/18/2013 10:48 AM, Bill wrote: Doug Miller wrote: Bill wrote in : There is some inspiration to be gleaned from the one of this page of Grizzly's catalog (bottom of page): http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2013/Main/13 Dust hose attaches in the wrong place. To do any good at all, the dust hose needs to attach at the *front* of the blade guard, not the rear. That makes sense now. How could they have got that wrong (just rhetorical question)? Thanks Doug. Bill Well It may not be wrong, SawStop claims extreme efficiency with their guard and the hose is at the rear. It all depends on the turbulence and flow inside the guard. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJEi_lWGeLs Someone posted in the comments section of that video, that the person in the video is "standing on the wrong side of the fence". What do you think? I have the SawStop but don't use the guard at all, If I was worried about the little bit that comes out on top of the table I would probably use the guard but IMHO it is not enough to worry about since you are not going to get all of it anyway. But having said all of that, the vast majority of the saw dust goes down inside the saw. Your sander, if used with out a vacuum, might produce more dust than the top side of the saw with out guard dust collection. Just saying, it might be a lot of trouble to try to catch 10% of the dust on top. |
#107
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Blade guard
On Wed, 18 Dec 2013 13:31:57 -0500, Bill wrote:
http://vintagemachinery.org/photoind...l.aspx?id=3666 Now, I really appreciate the engineering that went into that! : ) Thanks! And with some new bearings, mine has absolutely no measurable runout. Of course, that is easier to accomplish when the blade is mounted rigidly, the table goes up and down and tilts :-). -- This message was for rec.woodworking - if it appears in homeownershub they ripped it off. -- This message was for rec.woodworking - if it appears in homeownershub they ripped it off. |
#108
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Blade guard
On Wed, 18 Dec 2013 18:38:24 -0500, Bill
wrote: Leon wrote: On 12/18/2013 10:48 AM, Bill wrote: Doug Miller wrote: Bill wrote in : There is some inspiration to be gleaned from the one of this page of Grizzly's catalog (bottom of page): http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2013/Main/13 Dust hose attaches in the wrong place. To do any good at all, the dust hose needs to attach at the *front* of the blade guard, not the rear. That makes sense now. How could they have got that wrong (just rhetorical question)? Thanks Doug. Bill Well It may not be wrong, SawStop claims extreme efficiency with their guard and the hose is at the rear. It all depends on the turbulence and flow inside the guard. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJEi_lWGeLs Someone posted in the comments section of that video, that the person in the video is "standing on the wrong side of the fence". What do you think? It may be the "wrong side" in someone's mind but it sure looks right to me. If there is a kick-back, he's not going to get bloody. I *try* to work from that side of the fence. |
#109
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Blade guard
On 12/18/2013 3:17 PM, Leon wrote:
On 12/18/2013 10:48 AM, Bill wrote: Doug Miller wrote: Bill wrote in : There is some inspiration to be gleaned from the one of this page of Grizzly's catalog (bottom of page): http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2013/Main/13 Dust hose attaches in the wrong place. To do any good at all, the dust hose needs to attach at the *front* of the blade guard, not the rear. That makes sense now. How could they have got that wrong (just rhetorical question)? Thanks Doug. Bill Well It may not be wrong, SawStop claims extreme efficiency with their guard and the hose is at the rear. It all depends on the turbulence and flow inside the guard. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJEi_lWGeLs I have the SawStop but don't use the guard at all, If I was worried about the little bit that comes out on top of the table I would probably use the guard but IMHO it is not enough to worry about since you are not going to get all of it anyway. But having said all of that, the vast majority of the saw dust goes down inside the saw. Your sander, if used with out a vacuum, might produce more dust than the top side of the saw with out guard dust collection. Just saying, it might be a lot of trouble to try to catch 10% of the dust on top. yes but looking at your guard, it is a front collection that redirects it back to the rear, probably because it is much easier to lift the guard if the hose is in the rear. I see a baffle that makes the air travel to the front of the guard, around , up and then back to the hose. -- Jeff |
#110
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Blade guard
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in news:
: Well It may not be wrong, SawStop claims extreme efficiency with their guard and the hose is at the rear. It all depends on the turbulence and flow inside the guard. SawStop also has the dust hose connected to a shroud that surrounds the blade, instead of to a port that's basically just a 4"-diameter hole in the cabinet. I imagine that catches most of the sawdust. |
#111
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Blade guard
Bill wrote in :
Leon wrote: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJEi_lWGeLs Someone posted in the comments section of that video, that the person in the video is "standing on the wrong side of the fence". What do you think? I think he's full of baloney; I disagree with virtually everything he wrote. |
#112
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Blade guard
On 12/18/2013 5:38 PM, Bill wrote:
Someone posted in the comments section of that video, that the person in the video is "standing on the wrong side of the fence". What do you think? Here, I'll say it again: "Awareness of and an unflagging practice of "Safety" in the shop is unarguably the single most valuable component of a lasting enjoyment of same. However, too often in the current world of print and bits and bytes, playing the "safety" card has become a mixture of the tone of political correctness, a whiff of Wikipedia wisdom, and a nagging fear of being held accountable, presented in toto with a smug assertiveness that presupposes the purveyor's superior ken, but, in actuality is little more than ignorance of underlying issues swept under the shop mat." As Doug and krw indicated, the commentard fits the above to a "T". -- eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net google.com/+KarlCaillouet http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/ KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) |
#113
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Blade guard
I finally finished the article. I really enjoy reading articles like
that one. Here are a few comments: --The hood having a solid wood front obscures vision too much. It's also a little too narrow (for my tolerances/comfort zone); he may have built one before. --He's got a 1 1/2" diameter conduit beam being supported by just one mast (bolted to the far right end of his saw). It bothers me to have that beam hanging... Something is going to crack, break or sag. I would use 2 masts (some commercial systems use "nested masts"). In fact, if I had them handy, I might two lamp bases with a length of EMT between them? Think of the possible lighting! ; ) Yes, we're having fun. I wonder what a Festool Blade Guard would look like? I guess it would be green. But that's no advantage over having a solid wood front! Cheers, Bill |
#114
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Blade guard
Swingman wrote:
On 12/18/2013 5:38 PM, Bill wrote: Someone posted in the comments section of that video, that the person in the video is "standing on the wrong side of the fence". What do you think? Here, I'll say it again: "Awareness of and an unflagging practice of "Safety" in the shop is unarguably the single most valuable component of a lasting enjoyment of same. However, too often in the current world of print and bits and bytes, playing the "safety" card has become a mixture of the tone of political correctness, a whiff of Wikipedia wisdom, and a nagging fear of being held accountable, presented in toto with a smug assertiveness that presupposes the purveyor's superior ken, but, in actuality is little more than ignorance of underlying issues swept under the shop mat." As Doug and krw indicated, the commentard fits the above to a "T". Thank you Swingman! But "ken"? I need a dictionary to read your posts! But hey, you tried to put one past me with "commentard" : ) But like Gramps says, I grok'ed it! So much ww-lingo to learn! Bill |
#115
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Blade guard
On 12/18/2013 8:21 PM, Bill wrote:
Thank you Swingman! But "ken"? I need a dictionary to read your posts! But hey, you tried to put one past me with "commentard" : ) But like Gramps says, I grok'ed it! So much ww-lingo to learn! LOL. "d'ye ken?", AKA Scots for: "Do you know?". Heard the word daily from a good friend, a London Bobby, many years (50) ago, and it stuck. From Scotland, I could understand him perfectly until we crossed the border at Gretna Green to visit his parents in Carluke, a small village outside of Glasgow, then it might as well have been Gaelic he was speaking to the locals, when we begged water to fill up the Morris Minor's radiator, which leaked like a sieve. Sir Walter Scott, a good read, and user of the word, also ... I digress. -- eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net google.com/+KarlCaillouet http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/ KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) |
#116
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Blade guard
Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 12/18/2013 8:11 PM, Bill wrote: Yes, we're having fun. I wonder what a Festool Blade Guard would look like? I guess it would be green. Not to mention costing a TON of greeng I can see that some folks here have an FS. A Festool-Stop! ; ) |
#117
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Blade guard
On 12/18/2013 8:11 PM, Bill wrote:
Yes, we're having fun. I wonder what a Festool Blade Guard would look like? I guess it would be green. Not to mention costing a TON of greeng |
#118
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Blade guard
On 12/18/2013 5:38 PM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote: On 12/18/2013 10:48 AM, Bill wrote: Doug Miller wrote: Bill wrote in : There is some inspiration to be gleaned from the one of this page of Grizzly's catalog (bottom of page): http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2013/Main/13 Dust hose attaches in the wrong place. To do any good at all, the dust hose needs to attach at the *front* of the blade guard, not the rear. That makes sense now. How could they have got that wrong (just rhetorical question)? Thanks Doug. Bill Well It may not be wrong, SawStop claims extreme efficiency with their guard and the hose is at the rear. It all depends on the turbulence and flow inside the guard. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJEi_lWGeLs Someone posted in the comments section of that video, that the person in the video is "standing on the wrong side of the fence". What do you think? Well he is out of the line of kick back if that happened. I say stand out of direct line and where you feel most comfortable with maintaining control. I am typically on the left side of the blade. |
#119
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Blade guard
On 12/18/2013 7:01 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in news: : Well It may not be wrong, SawStop claims extreme efficiency with their guard and the hose is at the rear. It all depends on the turbulence and flow inside the guard. SawStop also has the dust hose connected to a shroud that surrounds the blade, instead of to a port that's basically just a 4"-diameter hole in the cabinet. I imagine that catches most of the sawdust. Actually it collects from a 4" port in the cabinet and the smaller one at the back of the guard. The smaller one "T's" off from the 4" port at the back of the saw. |
#120
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Blade guard
On Thu, 19 Dec 2013 00:36:45 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote: On 12/18/2013 5:38 PM, Bill wrote: Leon wrote: On 12/18/2013 10:48 AM, Bill wrote: Doug Miller wrote: Bill wrote in : There is some inspiration to be gleaned from the one of this page of Grizzly's catalog (bottom of page): http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2013/Main/13 Dust hose attaches in the wrong place. To do any good at all, the dust hose needs to attach at the *front* of the blade guard, not the rear. That makes sense now. How could they have got that wrong (just rhetorical question)? Thanks Doug. Bill Well It may not be wrong, SawStop claims extreme efficiency with their guard and the hose is at the rear. It all depends on the turbulence and flow inside the guard. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJEi_lWGeLs Someone posted in the comments section of that video, that the person in the video is "standing on the wrong side of the fence". What do you think? Well he is out of the line of kick back if that happened. I say stand out of direct line and where you feel most comfortable with maintaining control. I am typically on the left side of the blade. Not to belabor the point but I think this discussion is worth having... If you're on the left side of the blade, aren't you tending to pinch the board into the blade when you're close to the end of a rip? On the right side of the fence, you're tending to push the side of the board that's against the fence rather than the side that's against the blade. |
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