On 11/28/2013 10:01 AM, Sonny wrote:
On Wednesday, November 27, 2013 9:47:25 PM UTC-6, Bill wrote:
I should read the manual too, because I learned some things while I was scanning it. In particular that the blades should be locked before the saw is turned on.

And don't torque the lock knobs (height and angle) really tight. Firm tightening, but not super tight. You'll learn and get the feel for sufficient tightening. With my older '81 saw, the "tightening" of the heigth knob has worn, a bit, probably from over tightening.

Three finger firm tightening, if this defines my experience, reasonably.

Sonny

Yes absolutely, the is just to prevent the arbor from creeping. A slight
tightening does that. just snug it + a little more.

--
Jeff

On 11/28/2013 9:01 AM, Sonny wrote:
On Wednesday, November 27, 2013 9:47:25 PM UTC-6, Bill wrote:
I should read the manual too, because I learned some things while I was scanning it. In particular that the blades should be locked before the saw is turned on.

And don't torque the lock knobs (height and angle) really tight. Firm tightening, but not super tight. You'll learn and get the feel for sufficient tightening. With my older '81 saw, the "tightening" of the heigth knob has worn, a bit, probably from over tightening.

Three finger firm tightening, if this defines my experience, reasonably.

Sonny



Agreed, My saw height wheel will spin during operation if the handle is
near the top and on the left side of center. It is the weight of the
handle that makes it come down. Not on the right side because that also
raises the assembly.
Any way I find tight enough so that the wheel does not turn on its own.

Lew Hodgett wrote:
Bill wrote:

I was looking at parts diagram for a 2002 Unisaw that I located that
didn't have a blade guard or splitter. I was surprised.
-------------------------------------------------------
http://tinyurl.com/3uxteay

Have used this device on a Unisaw and it not only functional, but easy
to use.

Easy to install, easy to remove when you don't need it.

Thank you, Lew! I just added it to my "wish list".

Bill

Lew

Sonny wrote:
On Wednesday, November 27, 2013 9:47:25 PM UTC-6, Bill wrote:
I should read the manual too, because I learned some things while I was scanning it. In particular that the blades should be locked before the saw is turned on.
And don't torque the lock knobs (height and angle) really tight. Firm tightening, but not super tight. You'll learn and get the feel for sufficient tightening. With my older '81 saw, the "tightening" of the heigth knob has worn, a bit, probably from over tightening.

Three finger firm tightening, if this defines my experience, reasonably.

Yes, I'm getting the hint with "set screws". Next time my bathroom sink
faucet starts to leak, I'll probably be buying new faucets instead of a
$1 rubber part. And that's at least the 2nd time, I've stripped a set
screw in recent history. I even bought a torque-wrench to help me curb
my neanderthalic-tendencies. And, in the one time I've used it so far
(for a lawn-mower spark plug), it may already have paid for itself.

Can I apply lithium grease on the internal parts corresponding to the
height/tilt wheels of the saw, or is there something more suitable for
this purpose?

Bill

Sonny

On Thu, 28 Nov 2013 11:34:40 -0500, Bill
wrote:

Lew Hodgett wrote:
Bill wrote:

I was looking at parts diagram for a 2002 Unisaw that I located that
didn't have a blade guard or splitter. I was surprised.
-------------------------------------------------------
http://tinyurl.com/3uxteay

Have used this device on a Unisaw and it not only functional, but easy
to use.

Easy to install, easy to remove when you don't need it.

Thank you, Lew! I just added it to my "wish list".

I have one. That's what I was referring to as a "knife", which it
really isn't. It's a great addition. However, I wasn't impressed by
the installation. It's kinda kludgy.

On Wed, 27 Nov 2013 20:48:47 -0500, Bill
wrote:

wrote:
You'll use the inserts. You'll probably want to buy more, if you do a
lot of dado cuts. Did I mention that Forrest makes a nice dado set?
;-)
I already bought a Freud dado set, with Rockler's 20% off coupon a few
months ago--anticipating that I would one day own a saw. What I need is
a suitable 230W adapter/plug-inlet for the wall. The one I already
purchased doesn't fit the horizontally-slotted plug. That's the sort of
problem you may run into with anticipatory purchases...

I replaced the cord on mine to fit the outlet I installed. I don't
even remember that it came with a plug, though.

I really like my JessEm miter gauge (JessEm makes great stuff). The
Incra 1000HD is really nice, too, though not as solid.
Amazon had the Incra 1000HD on sale for about $110 during last Christmas
season. I'll let you know if I see it.
If you doubt me, check camelcamelcamel.com (I haven't checked, I may be
off by a few dollars).

I don't doubt you. I've seen Incra stuff pretty deeply discounted.
It's a great price (I think I paid just under $200, a few years ago).
Be careful with it. At extreme angles, watch the trailing edge of the
fence. It hangs out into the saw, unless you readjust (and
recalibrate) it after changing the angle. DAMHIKT.

On Wed, 27 Nov 2013 22:47:25 -0500, Bill
wrote:

woodchucker wrote:
Congratulations Bill. Good luck with your new saw.

Thank you!

Give it a thorough look over. Clean it up..
Yes, it needs a bit of cleaning up, and that will help me to familiarize
myself with it. I should read the manual too, because I learned some
things while I was scanning it. In particular that the blades should be
locked before the saw is turned on. It makes sense, but I didn't know
that already.

LOL!

I have some 400 and 600 wet or dry. Thank you for
mentioning that (below).

I prefer the ScotchBrite pads or steel wool. The Boeshield rust
remover works really well if you have a little rust.

you can use 400 to 600 wet dry sandpaper, for the top, or a green
scotch brite.. cut it round and use your random orbital sander...
wax it using butcher wax and enjoy.

I've been using Boeshield but will probably switch to TopKote soon.

Build yourself a cross cut sled for 90degree cuts and look for the
incra miter on sale for angled cuts.

And go make something.. build some jigs to learn how to use the tool
before you tackle your first big project.

Yes, I will!

Watch the blade! Really, watch it. It'll jump out and find your
fingers if you don't keep an eye on it.

On 11/27/2013 7:27 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 27 Nov 2013 19:56:11 -0500, Bill
wrote:

wrote:
On Wed, 27 Nov 2013 19:33:43 -0500, Bill
wrote:

Bill wrote:
I was looking at parts diagram for a 2002 Unisaw. snip
It just takes one other person to makes an auction difficult, and he
was there (he probably thinking the same thing)! We had to go from $500
to $1050 before I convinced this person I was pretty serious about
getting a saw! And that's the dollar amount I payed--$1050+10% +7%
(sales tax), in case anyone is curious. I felt like I didn't want to do
any more saw shopping--and this one was only about 5 miles from home--so
I thought beforehand that it wasn't going to get any easier. I met a
kind person who helped me get the saw home on his trailer--I had talked
with him for 10 or 15 minutes before they got to auctioning the
machinery. While I was collecting parts in a plastic garbage bag that I
brought with me for the occasion, he asked me if I needed any help
moving the saw. And I said yes, please. And he said, where's your truck.
And I said, I don't have a truck. Can we put in in yours?--I said I
live close by and I will be glad to give you $100 to help me. His
trailer featured a hand-powered winch-which was handy pulling it up and
letting it down some improvised ramps. He did a lot of work though,
securing the saw. He got he out of a "tough jam". I thanked him and
tried to hand him $100, buy him a tank or two of gas, etc. but he would
only take $5 for gas. A nice guy who made a real difference, like many
of you folks.
Sounds like a really nice guy. Do you have his name/address? You
might try sending him something for the holidays (something a little
nicer than a fruitcake ;-), with a note thanking him again.
Yes, you don't need to tell me that. Who doesn't like fruitcake?

Everyone likes it so much they pass it on to their friends!

You'll love the saw. Now you need a good miter gauge (the Delta
sucks) and a few Forrest blades. ;-)
I'm glad because I don't have a miter guage. The saw guard, with it's
splitter, and 3 insert plates (in all) were found before the sale.

I find the guard almost useless. If I'm doing nothing but ripping for
a week, I might think about putting it on. I don't like not being
able to see the blade clearly but the dust collector works better with
it on. ;-) I use the knife whenever I'm making through cuts, though.

You'll use the inserts. You'll probably want to buy more, if you do a
lot of dado cuts. Did I mention that Forrest makes a nice dado set?
;-)

I really like my JessEm miter gauge (JessEm makes great stuff). The
Incra 1000HD is really nice, too, though not as solid.

I probably would have bought the JessEm to replace the Kreg that I had
but JessEm no longer makes that tank of a miter gauge.

On 11/27/2013 7:48 PM, Bill wrote:
wrote:
You'll use the inserts. You'll probably want to buy more, if you do a
lot of dado cuts. Did I mention that Forrest makes a nice dado set?
;-)
I already bought a Freud dado set, with Rockler's 20% off coupon a few
months ago--anticipating that I would one day own a saw. What I need is
a suitable 230W adapter/plug-inlet for the wall. The one I already
purchased doesn't fit the horizontally-slotted plug. That's the sort of
problem you may run into with anticipatory purchases...


I really like my JessEm miter gauge (JessEm makes great stuff). The
Incra 1000HD is really nice, too, though not as solid.
Amazon had the Incra 1000HD on sale for about $110 during last Christmas
season. I'll let you know if I see it.
If you doubt me, check camelcamelcamel.com (I haven't checked, I may be
off by a few dollars).

Bill



FWIW I bought the Incra 1000HD about 18 months ago and love it. It is
so rock solid an accurate that for quite a while I atually quit using my
Dubby Miter Sleds. The Dubbys are great up to about 25" but for 1x8
material the Incra works well.

One other note I also bought the next size up telescoping fence. The
measured capacity is now 49"

And add the a sacrificial fence for tear out free cross cuts.

On 11/28/2013 11:02 AM, Bill wrote:
Sonny wrote:
On Wednesday, November 27, 2013 9:47:25 PM UTC-6, Bill wrote:
I should read the manual too, because I learned some things while I
was scanning it. In particular that the blades should be locked
before the saw is turned on.
And don't torque the lock knobs (height and angle) really tight. Firm
tightening, but not super tight. You'll learn and get the feel for
sufficient tightening. With my older '81 saw, the "tightening" of
the heigth knob has worn, a bit, probably from over tightening.

Three finger firm tightening, if this defines my experience, reasonably.

Yes, I'm getting the hint with "set screws". Next time my bathroom sink
faucet starts to leak, I'll probably be buying new faucets instead of a
$1 rubber part. And that's at least the 2nd time, I've stripped a set
screw in recent history. I even bought a torque-wrench to help me curb
my neanderthalic-tendencies. And, in the one time I've used it so far
(for a lawn-mower spark plug), it may already have paid for itself.

Can I apply lithium grease on the internal parts corresponding to the
height/tilt wheels of the saw, or is there something more suitable for
this purpose?

Bill

The lock tends to be a bear to loosen when you tighten it too much. You
will not make that mistake too often. ;~)

When in doubt tighten with your less dominant hand, it only needs to be
snug. I'm not really sure you could over tighten it with out a pipe
wrench, so you are not likely to break anything if every thing is
working correctly.


IIRC the lock action is simply a cone shaped pointed end on the lock
knob shaft that presses into a cone shaped funnel on the receiving end.
Not like a nut and bolt. If you screw the lock knob out you will see
what is going on.

On Thursday, November 28, 2013 11:02:29 AM UTC-6, Bill wrote:
Can I apply lithium grease on the internal parts corresponding to the height/tilt wheels of the saw, or is there something more suitable for this purpose?

Applying a lubricant to the large gears or teeth of the gears? There seems to be some difference of opinions about lubrcating those teeth/gears, similar to lubricating the threads on a wood vise screw.

Some oils or grease tend to collect sawdust, adding to any potential problem for smooth operation. Clean, substance free gears/teeth or threads seems to work just fine, for me, though my saw's angle gear squeaks like hell, when cranking it. I suspect it's the shaft/support that squeaks, not the teeth/gears.

I don't lubricate my gears and sawdust collects on them, anyway, but it's not "stuck" on. It's a lot easier blowing the dust off, with the air hose, if the dust is not stuck on by a lubricant. In my case, sawdust collecting on the gears/teeth is much more pronounced on the saw that is not attached to the DC.

I would suggest you not lubricate the gears. If your experience suggests otherwise, then try lubricating and compare the results.

Sonny

On 11/28/2013 12:47 PM, Sonny wrote:
On Thursday, November 28, 2013 11:02:29 AM UTC-6, Bill wrote:
Can I apply lithium grease on the internal parts corresponding to the height/tilt wheels of the saw, or is there something more suitable for this purpose?

Applying a lubricant to the large gears or teeth of the gears? There seems to be some difference of opinions about lubrcating those teeth/gears, similar to lubricating the threads on a wood vise screw.

Some oils or grease tend to collect sawdust, adding to any potential problem for smooth operation. Clean, substance free gears/teeth or threads seems to work just fine, for me, though my saw's angle gear squeaks like hell, when cranking it. I suspect it's the shaft/support that squeaks, not the teeth/gears.

I don't lubricate my gears and sawdust collects on them, anyway, but it's not "stuck" on. It's a lot easier blowing the dust off, with the air hose, if the dust is not stuck on by a lubricant. In my case, sawdust collecting on the gears/teeth is much more pronounced on the saw that is not attached to the DC.

I would suggest you not lubricate the gears. If your experience suggests otherwise, then try lubricating and compare the results.

Sonny



Lube the gears but don't use grease. I use TopCote. I suspect any one
of these would work well.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3IDV8E/...N=B00D3 IDV8E

wrote:
On Wed, 27 Nov 2013 20:48:47 -0500, Bill
wrote:

wrote:
You'll use the inserts. You'll probably want to buy more, if you do a
lot of dado cuts. Did I mention that Forrest makes a nice dado set?
;-)
I already bought a Freud dado set, with Rockler's 20% off coupon a few
months ago--anticipating that I would one day own a saw. What I need is
a suitable 230W adapter/plug-inlet for the wall. The one I already
purchased doesn't fit the horizontally-slotted plug. That's the sort of
problem you may run into with anticipatory purchases...
I replaced the cord on mine to fit the outlet I installed. I don't
even remember that it came with a plug, though.

I really like my JessEm miter gauge (JessEm makes great stuff). The
Incra 1000HD is really nice, too, though not as solid.
Amazon had the Incra 1000HD on sale for about $110 during last Christmas
season. I'll let you know if I see it.
If you doubt me, check camelcamelcamel.com (I haven't checked, I may be
off by a few dollars).
I don't doubt you. I've seen Incra stuff pretty deeply discounted.

I double checked, it was $119.99 last year. At this point, just trying
to walk around my garage/shop is "an accident waiting to happen". I
need to flip the saw around, put it on it's proper stand, and put it
where it needs to go,etc.

Towards that goal, I noticed that Menards has this miter saw stand on
sale tomorrow for $29.99:
http://www.menards.com/main/see-more...74-c-13916.htm

Sonny wrote:
On Thursday, November 28, 2013 11:02:29 AM UTC-6, Bill wrote:
Can I apply lithium grease on the internal parts corresponding to the height/tilt wheels of the saw, or is there something more suitable for this purpose?
Applying a lubricant to the large gears or teeth of the gears? There seems to be some difference of opinions about lubrcating those teeth/gears, similar to lubricating the threads on a wood vise screw.

Some oils or grease tend to collect sawdust, adding to any potential problem for smooth operation. Clean, substance free gears/teeth or threads seems to work just fine, for me, though my saw's angle gear squeaks like hell, when cranking it. I suspect it's the shaft/support that squeaks, not the teeth/gears.

There is some squeaks. No functional problem that I am aware of. The
idea of putting grease onto the gears raised my caution flag too. I
suspect that the saw just hasn't been used in a while.



I don't lubricate my gears and sawdust collects on them, anyway, but it's not "stuck" on. It's a lot easier blowing the dust off, with the air hose, if the dust is not stuck on by a lubricant. In my case, sawdust collecting on the gears/teeth is much more pronounced on the saw that is not attached to the DC.

I would suggest you not lubricate the gears. If your experience suggests otherwise, then try lubricating and compare the results.

Sonny

Bill wrote:

Towards that goal, I noticed that Menards has this miter saw stand on
sale tomorrow for $29.99:
http://www.menards.com/main/see-more...74-c-13916.htm


I did a little research and found this is the Portamate 3600, and I
compared it to the Portamate 4000. If it were the latter, I might bite.
My current miter saw configuration take up more space than it justifies
when I'm not using it.

Bill

Leon wrote:
On Thursday, November 28, 2013 11:02:29 AM UTC-6, Bill wrote:
Can I apply lithium grease on the internal parts corresponding to
the height/tilt wheels of the saw, or is there something more
suitable for this purpose?

Lube the gears but don't use grease. I use TopCote. I suspect any
one of these would work well.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3IDV8E/...N=B00D3 IDV8E


Thank you. I will investigate further. I need to "get in there" with a
vacuum cleaner and a flashlight!

Bill

On Thu, 28 Nov 2013 14:56:25 -0500, Bill
wrote:

wrote:
On Wed, 27 Nov 2013 20:48:47 -0500, Bill
wrote:

wrote:
You'll use the inserts. You'll probably want to buy more, if you do a
lot of dado cuts. Did I mention that Forrest makes a nice dado set?
;-)
I already bought a Freud dado set, with Rockler's 20% off coupon a few
months ago--anticipating that I would one day own a saw. What I need is
a suitable 230W adapter/plug-inlet for the wall. The one I already
purchased doesn't fit the horizontally-slotted plug. That's the sort of
problem you may run into with anticipatory purchases...
I replaced the cord on mine to fit the outlet I installed. I don't
even remember that it came with a plug, though.

I really like my JessEm miter gauge (JessEm makes great stuff). The
Incra 1000HD is really nice, too, though not as solid.
Amazon had the Incra 1000HD on sale for about $110 during last Christmas
season. I'll let you know if I see it.
If you doubt me, check camelcamelcamel.com (I haven't checked, I may be
off by a few dollars).
I don't doubt you. I've seen Incra stuff pretty deeply discounted.

I double checked, it was $119.99 last year. At this point, just trying
to walk around my garage/shop is "an accident waiting to happen". I
need to flip the saw around, put it on it's proper stand, and put it
where it needs to go,etc.

Towards that goal, I noticed that Menards has this miter saw stand on
sale tomorrow for $29.99:
http://www.menards.com/main/see-more...74-c-13916.htm

I'd just make sure it's plenty solid. It doesn't say how far it
extends but that's another important consideration.

I bought one of these several years ago for my HF saw, when I had no
place to put it or the saw. I found it at a BORG for $100. ;-) I've
seen them free with a saw but I bought a Bosch, eventually. I plan on
a stationary table for it, using it (and the HF saw) for portable use.

http://dewalt.com/tools/machinery-mi...ns-dwx723.aspx

On Thu, 28 Nov 2013 15:32:23 -0500, Bill
wrote:

Bill wrote:

Towards that goal, I noticed that Menards has this miter saw stand on
sale tomorrow for $29.99:
http://www.menards.com/main/see-more...74-c-13916.htm


I did a little research and found this is the Portamate 3600, and I
compared it to the Portamate 4000. If it were the latter, I might bite.
My current miter saw configuration take up more space than it justifies
when I'm not using it.

Space can be a problem. Since we moved to this house, that's not my
problem anymore. I need time to fill the 2000^ft unfinished[*]
basement. ;-)
[*] so unfinished that there was one outlet in the entire thing.

On 11/28/2013 3:55 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 28 Nov 2013 14:56:25 -0500, Bill
wrote:

Towards that goal, I noticed that Menards has this miter saw stand on
sale tomorrow for $29.99:
http://www.menards.com/main/see-more...74-c-13916.htm

I'd just make sure it's plenty solid. It doesn't say how far it
extends but that's another important consideration.

I bought one of these several years ago for my HF saw, when I had no
place to put it or the saw. I found it at a BORG for $100. ;-) I've
seen them free with a saw but I bought a Bosch, eventually. I plan on
a stationary table for it, using it (and the HF saw) for portable use.

http://dewalt.com/tools/machinery-mi...ns-dwx723.aspx


The one I wound up getting was the StableMate Plus 100(?). Similar
design to the HTC PortaMate but, AFAIK, made by a totally different
outfit. DAGS and you can see that they (PortaMate/StableMate area
similar. Footprint of the Stablemate when deployed appears a bit better
(as in stable) compared to the PortaMate but the StableMate was
EXTREMELY stable to point, perhaps, of overkill.

The mounting system for the Stablemate was very well done making it
quite easy to mount/dismount the saw for transport or storage and the
stand itself has a pretty low profile whether being stood on end or just
laying on the floor. Can't recall now if I got a super bargain when I
bought it (gotta be 8 years back)or if they've just gone nuts in
pricing. Looks like it'll cost you ~ $200 for one today. Don't think
that I paid much over $115 through Amazon.

Towards that goal, I noticed that Menards has this miter saw stand
on
sale tomorrow for $29.99:
http://www.menards.com/main/see-more...74-c-13916.htm

-----------------------------------------------
Norm to the rescue.

http://tinyurl.com/mhgw52m

Lew

On 11/28/2013 2:28 PM, Bill wrote:
Sonny wrote:
On Thursday, November 28, 2013 11:02:29 AM UTC-6, Bill wrote:
Can I apply lithium grease on the internal parts corresponding to the
height/tilt wheels of the saw, or is there something more suitable
for this purpose?
Applying a lubricant to the large gears or teeth of the gears? There
seems to be some difference of opinions about lubrcating those
teeth/gears, similar to lubricating the threads on a wood vise screw.

Some oils or grease tend to collect sawdust, adding to any potential
problem for smooth operation. Clean, substance free gears/teeth or
threads seems to work just fine, for me, though my saw's angle gear
squeaks like hell, when cranking it. I suspect it's the shaft/support
that squeaks, not the teeth/gears.

There is some squeaks. No functional problem that I am aware of. The
idea of putting grease onto the gears raised my caution flag too. I
suspect that the saw just hasn't been used in a while.

There really is no problem with using a grease, the factory uses grease.
But there is more maintenance involved with having to clean more often.

Mike Marlow, I bought some Grade 5 (instead of Grade 8) bolts and nuts
today just so I wouldn't have to wait anymore for them.

This message isn't indexed in precisely the write location, but we're
not all writing for posterity.


Thinking more about push-sticks and table saws-- What are the chances
that an errant pushstick will yank one's hand towards the blade? Hmmm...

Maybe should build one of those that look like a plane?

I have been reading the older book, Cabinet Making and Millwork, by John
Feirer. It seemed to get more interesting when he got to the subject of
table saws. Coincidentally, I'm sure, I'm on page 285--"Pushsticks"
(only 600 pages to go...lol).

Cheers,
Bill

On 12/9/2013 1:21 PM, Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow, I bought some Grade 5 (instead of Grade 8) bolts and nuts
today just so I wouldn't have to wait anymore for them.

This message isn't indexed in precisely the write location, but we're
not all writing for posterity.


Thinking more about push-sticks and table saws-- What are the chances
that an errant pushstick will yank one's hand towards the blade? Hmmm...

Maybe should build one of those that look like a plane?

I have been reading the older book, Cabinet Making and Millwork, by John
Feirer. It seemed to get more interesting when he got to the subject of
table saws. Coincidentally, I'm sure, I'm on page 285--"Pushsticks"
(only 600 pages to go...lol).

Cheers,
Bill


I strongly recommend, for a home made push device, one that hooks at the
back of the work and also has a long section that rests on top of the
work. You really want to also hold the work down in addition to
pushing. If you need a picture I can provide one.

The push sticks that simply push from the back scare the heck out of me.

On 12/9/2013 2:21 PM, Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow, I bought some Grade 5 (instead of Grade 8) bolts and nuts
today just so I wouldn't have to wait anymore for them.

This message isn't indexed in precisely the write location, but we're
not all writing for posterity.


Thinking more about push-sticks and table saws-- What are the chances
that an errant pushstick will yank one's hand towards the blade? Hmmm...

Maybe should build one of those that look like a plane?

I have been reading the older book, Cabinet Making and Millwork, by John
Feirer. It seemed to get more interesting when he got to the subject of
table saws. Coincidentally, I'm sure, I'm on page 285--"Pushsticks"
(only 600 pages to go...lol).

Cheers,
Bill

Two best push sticks... the GRIPPER
Home made type that is used for thin sock... some thin piece of ply or
wood that has a hook on the back to push the piece through.

Your hand will never be pushed toward the blade unless you use those
crappy plastic push pads that can lean over...

--
Jeff

On 12/9/2013 1:55 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 12/9/2013 2:21 PM, Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow, I bought some Grade 5 (instead of Grade 8) bolts and nuts
today just so I wouldn't have to wait anymore for them.

This message isn't indexed in precisely the write location, but we're
not all writing for posterity.


Thinking more about push-sticks and table saws-- What are the chances
that an errant pushstick will yank one's hand towards the blade? Hmmm...

Maybe should build one of those that look like a plane?

I have been reading the older book, Cabinet Making and Millwork, by John
Feirer. It seemed to get more interesting when he got to the subject of
table saws. Coincidentally, I'm sure, I'm on page 285--"Pushsticks"
(only 600 pages to go...lol).

Cheers,
Bill

Two best push sticks... the GRIPPER
Home made type that is used for thin sock... some thin piece of ply or
wood that has a hook on the back to push the piece through.

I was going to add the Grippers, for the store bought solution, but
realized that Bill might be over whelmed with the possibilities. :~)

Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow, I bought some Grade 5 (instead of Grade 8) bolts and
nuts today just so I wouldn't have to wait anymore for them.

Good for ya. You'll be fine with those.


Thinking more about push-sticks and table saws-- What are the chances
that an errant pushstick will yank one's hand towards the blade? Hmmm...

Not all that great. It's more like where will an errant hand end up?


--

-Mike-

Leon wrote:
On 12/9/2013 1:21 PM, Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow, I bought some Grade 5 (instead of Grade 8) bolts and nuts
today just so I wouldn't have to wait anymore for them.

This message isn't indexed in precisely the write location, but we're
not all writing for posterity.


Thinking more about push-sticks and table saws-- What are the chances
that an errant pushstick will yank one's hand towards the blade?
Hmmm...

Maybe should build one of those that look like a plane?

I have been reading the older book, Cabinet Making and Millwork, by John
Feirer. It seemed to get more interesting when he got to the subject of
table saws. Coincidentally, I'm sure, I'm on page 285--"Pushsticks"
(only 600 pages to go...lol).

Cheers,
Bill


I strongly recommend, for a home made push device, one that hooks at
the back of the work and also has a long section that rests on top of
the work. You really want to also hold the work down in addition to
pushing. If you need a picture I can provide one.

The push sticks that simply push from the back scare the heck out of me.
I think the 4 or 5 in Feier's book fit that description, as well as the
sketch of one provided in the TS Owners Manual.

I am familar with the shape of the one you are proposing. Since the
Biesemeyer (78-961) splitter I'll be using will prevent me from using
the blade guard,
the push stick I use merits a little more consideration. I can surely
google a template. Thanks for setting me straight on that!

Bill

"Leon" wrote:

I strongly recommend, for a home made push device, one that hooks at
the back of the work and also has a long section that rests on top
of the work. You really want to also hold the work down in addition
to pushing. If you need a picture I can provide one.

The push sticks that simply push from the back scare the heck out of
me.
----------------------------------------------------------------
Whack a 2x6x8ft construction timber into 8 equal (12") pieces, then
either bandsaw a 3/8"x1-1/2"x11" piece away from bottom leaving a 1"
long
hook or epoxy a 3/8"x1-1/2"x1" piece to the 2x6 to form a hook.

Repeat on top of 2x6 to make two push sticks from each 2x6.

Lew

On 12/9/2013 3:21 PM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 12/9/2013 1:21 PM, Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow, I bought some Grade 5 (instead of Grade 8) bolts and nuts
today just so I wouldn't have to wait anymore for them.

This message isn't indexed in precisely the write location, but we're
not all writing for posterity.


Thinking more about push-sticks and table saws-- What are the chances
that an errant pushstick will yank one's hand towards the blade? Hmmm...

Maybe should build one of those that look like a plane?

I have been reading the older book, Cabinet Making and Millwork, by John
Feirer. It seemed to get more interesting when he got to the subject of
table saws. Coincidentally, I'm sure, I'm on page 285--"Pushsticks"
(only 600 pages to go...lol).

Cheers,
Bill


I strongly recommend, for a home made push device, one that hooks at
the back of the work and also has a long section that rests on top of
the work. You really want to also hold the work down in addition to
pushing. If you need a picture I can provide one.

The push sticks that simply push from the back scare the heck out of me.
I think the 4 or 5 in Feier's book fit that description, as well as the
sketch of one provided in the TS Owners Manual.

I am familar with the shape of the one you are proposing. Since the
Biesemeyer (78-961) splitter I'll be using will prevent me from using
the blade guard,
the push stick I use merits a little more consideration. I can surely
google a template. Thanks for setting me straight on that!

Bill

The beis splitter probably prevents you from using the gripper.
it sticks too high up to allow it to pass through.

That's why I like my splitter or a riving knife.

--
Jeff

On 12/9/2013 2:21 PM, Bill wrote:


I am familar with the shape of the one you are proposing.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...t=d irectlink


--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
google.com/+KarlCaillouet
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 12/9/13, 3:03 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 12/9/2013 2:21 PM, Bill wrote:


I am familar with the shape of the one you are proposing.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...t=d irectlink


Those are the type I prefer and I make them out of scrap plywood.
Since I use a splitter instead of a guard, mine can be sacrificial
allowing the blade to cut through the heal/cleat.

I either make the sole of the shoe pretty high so a new cleat can be
made from cutting off some of the height of the sole, or I use hardwood
cleats attached and a couple screws at the back.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Swingman wrote:
On 12/9/2013 2:21 PM, Bill wrote:


I am familar with the shape of the one you are proposing.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...t=d irectlink



That's a big-un! Thanks!

On Mon, 09 Dec 2013 14:21:04 -0500, Bill
wrote:

Mike Marlow, I bought some Grade 5 (instead of Grade 8) bolts and nuts
today just so I wouldn't have to wait anymore for them.

This message isn't indexed in precisely the write location, but we're
not all writing for posterity.


Thinking more about push-sticks and table saws-- What are the chances
that an errant pushstick will yank one's hand towards the blade? Hmmm...

Exceedingly small. The rotation of the blade is towards you, so if
the stick gets tangled in the blade, it's coming back at you. It
might put your eye out, but it's unlikely to suck your fingers in. You
don't reach behind the blade, do you?

Maybe should build one of those that look like a plane?

I have a couple I like. Both have notches so in addition to pushing I
can hold the back of the board against the table. Without this, the
stick can go under the board, causing it to rise. Kick-back is only a
millisecond of bad luck behind.

I keep one of the sticks on the fence and the other has a magnet and
sits stuck to the left side of the table. The idea is that they're
readily accessible when they're needed.

I have been reading the older book, Cabinet Making and Millwork, by John
Feirer. It seemed to get more interesting when he got to the subject of
table saws. Coincidentally, I'm sure, I'm on page 285--"Pushsticks"
(only 600 pages to go...lol).

Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Leon" wrote:

I strongly recommend, for a home made push device, one that hooks at
the back of the work and also has a long section that rests on top
of the work. You really want to also hold the work down in addition
to pushing. If you need a picture I can provide one.

The push sticks that simply push from the back scare the heck out of
me.
----------------------------------------------------------------
Whack a 2x6x8ft construction timber into 8 equal (12") pieces, then
either bandsaw a 3/8"x1-1/2"x11" piece away from bottom leaving a 1"
long
hook or epoxy a 3/8"x1-1/2"x1" piece to the 2x6 to form a hook.

Repeat on top of 2x6 to make two push sticks from each 2x6.

Lew


I see. If I understand correctly, then, you like 1 1/2" wide push
sticks. Do you have some 3/4" wide ones too? I only mention that
because it seems to be the common size. A 1.5" wide one sounds a little
safer. Of course, I realize that the work would direct the best choice.
I'm sure boat builders need substantial tools!

wrote:
Maybe should build one of those that look like a plane?
I have a couple I like. Both have notches so in addition to pushing I
can hold the back of the board against the table. Without this, the
stick can go under the board, causing it to rise. Kick-back is only a
millisecond of bad luck behind.

Good point!



I keep one of the sticks on the fence and the other has a magnet and
sits stuck to the left side of the table. The idea is that they're
readily accessible when they're needed.

I have been reading the older book, Cabinet Making and Millwork, by John
Feirer. It seemed to get more interesting when he got to the subject of
table saws. Coincidentally, I'm sure, I'm on page 285--"Pushsticks"
(only 600 pages to go...lol).

Lew Hodgett wrote:

Whack a 2x6x8ft construction timber into 8 equal (12") pieces, then
either bandsaw a 3/8"x1-1/2"x11" piece away from bottom leaving a 1"
long
hook or epoxy a 3/8"x1-1/2"x1" piece to the 2x6 to form a hook.

Repeat on top of 2x6 to make two push sticks from each 2x6.
----------------------------------------------------
"Bill" wrote:

I see. If I understand correctly, then, you like 1 1/2" wide push
sticks.
---------------------------------
Yes
---------------------------------
Do you have some 3/4" wide ones too?
----------------------------------
Yes
-----------------------------------
I only mention that because it seems to be the common size. A 1.5"
wide one sounds a little safer. Of course, I realize that the work
would direct the best choice.
----------------------------------
They are cheap and fast to make.
----------------------------------
I'm sure boat builders need substantial tools!
-------------------------------------
Yes but not necessarily for wood working.

Once you get past a good contractor's saw with a good fence
along with a good stacked dado, a 6" jointer and a bench top
planer, you are pretty much done with the heavy iron.

Also a good router kit is a must.

After that, it's sanding time since there are no square cuts when
finishing a boat.

Lots of time with a 12" disk sander along with a hand held 3-7/8"
right angle sander/grinder equipped with 24 grit sanding disks.

Much more free hand work than when building kitchens or furniture.

Lew

Swingman wrote:
On 12/9/2013 2:21 PM, Bill wrote:


I am familar with the shape of the one you are proposing.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...t=d irectlink

And a slight take off on that theme... as well as one that rides my rip
fence. I tend to use the push stick more than the saddle, but the saddle
does have it's place.

http://s1259.photobucket.com/user/mi...tml?sort=3&o=0

--

-Mike-

On 12/9/13, 6:26 PM, wrote:
Thinking more about push-sticks and table saws-- What are the chances
that an errant pushstick will yank one's hand towards the blade? Hmmm...
Exceedingly small. The rotation of the blade is towards you, so if
the stick gets tangled in the blade, it's coming back at you. It
might put your eye out, but it's unlikely to suck your fingers in. You
don't reach behind the blade, do you?


It's not the stick kicking back that's the danger.
It's your hand moving into the blade once the thing you're pushing
against in gone.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Mike Marlow wrote:
Swingman wrote:
On 12/9/2013 2:21 PM, Bill wrote:

I am familar with the shape of the one you are proposing.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...t=d irectlink
And a slight take off on that theme... as well as one that rides my rip
fence. I tend to use the push stick more than the saddle, but the saddle
does have it's place.

http://s1259.photobucket.com/user/mi...tml?sort=3&o=0

Looks like a good one. Thanks for postingit!

On Mon, 09 Dec 2013 22:35:14 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 12/9/13, 6:26 PM, wrote:
Thinking more about push-sticks and table saws-- What are the chances
that an errant pushstick will yank one's hand towards the blade? Hmmm...
Exceedingly small. The rotation of the blade is towards you, so if
the stick gets tangled in the blade, it's coming back at you. It
might put your eye out, but it's unlikely to suck your fingers in. You
don't reach behind the blade, do you?


It's not the stick kicking back that's the danger.

Not the stick, the board. It's not on the table and can twist and
catch - instant kickback.

It's your hand moving into the blade once the thing you're pushing
against in gone.

"We're gonna need a bigger stick!"