I never claimed to by a physicist or engineer, but I have found myself
trying to think like one in recent days.

By borrowing from numerous sources and integrating a couple ideas of my
own, I drew up a blade guard design and assembly which suits my present
purposes.

It relies however on a short vertical beam being supported ("hung") by a
short supported length of 2by4. The shot vertical beam may consist of a
short length of square steel tubing, a short length of 2by4 material, or
similar.

I would like to be able to MOVE the beam along the length of the 2by4
(for horizontal adjustment). My question is: Is there a familiar
hardware item that will help me with this? All it needs to do is wrap
("hook") around the 2by4 and provide a means to attach what I want. It
seems "definitely related" to a joist hanger, but seems to be something
different. The joist hangers that I have seen do not have "hooks to
wrap around the top of the support" (probably because that would not
evenly distribute the "load" in general).

BTW, I AM striving to be mindful of "torsional" forces.

Bill

Bill wrote:
I never claimed to by a physicist or engineer, but I have found myself
trying to think like one in recent days.

By borrowing from numerous sources and integrating a couple ideas of
my own, I drew up a blade guard design and assembly which suits my
present purposes.

It relies however on a short vertical beam being supported ("hung") by
a short supported length of 2by4. The shot vertical beam may consist
of a short length of square steel tubing, a short length of 2by4
material, or similar.

I would like to be able to MOVE the beam along the length of the 2by4
(for horizontal adjustment). My question is: Is there a familiar
hardware item that will help me with this? All it needs to do is wrap
("hook") around the 2by4 and provide a means to attach what I want.
It seems "definitely related" to a joist hanger, but seems to be
something different. The joist hangers that I have seen do not have
"hooks to wrap around the top of the support" (probably because that
would not evenly distribute the "load" in general).

BTW, I AM striving to be mindful of "torsional" forces.

Bill

It occurred to me that a regular joist hanger slung over the supported
2by4, sort of fits my request--but would not be nearly strong enough
(to have things hanging from, without screws, nails, etc.)

Bill wrote:
Bill wrote:
I never claimed to by a physicist or engineer, but I have found
myself trying to think like one in recent days.

By borrowing from numerous sources and integrating a couple ideas of
my own, I drew up a blade guard design and assembly which suits my
present purposes.

It relies however on a short vertical beam being supported ("hung")
by a short supported length of 2by4. The shot vertical beam may
consist of a short length of square steel tubing, a short length of
2by4 material, or similar.

I would like to be able to MOVE the beam along the length of the 2by4
(for horizontal adjustment). My question is: Is there a familiar
hardware item that will help me with this? All it needs to do is
wrap ("hook") around the 2by4 and provide a means to attach what I
want. It seems "definitely related" to a joist hanger, but seems to
be something different. The joist hangers that I have seen do not
have "hooks to wrap around the top of the support" (probably because
that would not evenly distribute the "load" in general).

BTW, I AM striving to be mindful of "torsional" forces.

Bill

It occurred to me that a regular joist hanger slung over the supported
2by4, sort of fits my request--but would not be nearly strong enough
(to have things hanging from, without screws, nails, etc.)

It occurred to me where I've seen something akin (not ken) to what I'm
looking for. Around the house, my wife has clothes on hooks which "hang
around the tops of doors". That's precisely in the spirit of what I'm
seeking.

Bill wrote:
I never claimed to by a physicist or engineer, but I have found myself
trying to think like one in recent days.

By borrowing from numerous sources and integrating a couple ideas of
my own, I drew up a blade guard design and assembly which suits my
present purposes.

It relies however on a short vertical beam being supported ("hung") by
a short supported length of 2by4. The shot vertical beam may consist
of a short length of square steel tubing, a short length of 2by4
material, or similar.

I would like to be able to MOVE the beam along the length of the 2by4
(for horizontal adjustment). My question is: Is there a familiar
hardware item that will help me with this? All it needs to do is wrap
("hook") around the 2by4 and provide a means to attach what I want.
It seems "definitely related" to a joist hanger, but seems to be
something different. The joist hangers that I have seen do not have
"hooks to wrap around the top of the support" (probably because that
would not evenly distribute the "load" in general).

BTW, I AM striving to be mindful of "torsional" forces.

Bill
The item in the link below seems needlessly complex, but is pretty close
to what I need. It is upside down in the picture, compared to what I
have in mind. I'm sure I could cobble something together myself: Bend
a piece of sheet steel into a U (with square corners), so it fits over a
2by4. Drill holes through it for a couple of bolts underneath--done.
The holes would go through the "hanging beam". The only problem with
that is it might 'swing'. I need it steady--no pendulum.

http://www.plowhearth.com/product.as...FbBAMgodJXsASA

Bill wrote:
The item in the link below seems needlessly complex, but is pretty
close to what I need. It is upside down in the picture, compared to
what I have in mind. I'm sure I could cobble something together
myself: Bend a piece of sheet steel into a U (with square corners),...

As I was laying in bed this morning, it occurred to me again how closely
this "chase" mimics "humans use of tools". Its right up there with
Lew's "Thinking Chair". The activity must create a lot of endorphins
(or something like that) because it seems to perpetuate itself.


Bill

Larry Kraus wrote:
Bill wrote:

Bill wrote:
The item in the link below seems needlessly complex, but is pretty
close to what I need. It is upside down in the picture, compared to
what I have in mind. I'm sure I could cobble something together
myself: Bend a piece of sheet steel into a U (with square corners),...
As I was laying in bed this morning, it occurred to me again how closely
this "chase" mimics "humans use of tools". Its right up there with
Lew's "Thinking Chair". The activity must create a lot of endorphins
(or something like that) because it seems to perpetuate itself.


Bill
I'm thinking that after a couple more times of replying to your own
posts you will have this totally sorted out!

Larry, I don't always post just because I have questions. I am helping
to "Create Content"!
I think that most people who write (good) books are students in disguise.
Maybe I could publish this project in a woodworking magazine? : )

-Bill Schwartz?

P.S. Thanks for posting to the thread! : ) I really don't wish to
bore everyone to death, so I didn't sayanything about "hooks around
dimensional lumber" (like under a paint holder on a ladder) above.

Larry Kraus wrote:
I'm thinking that after a couple more times of replying to your own
posts you will have this totally sorted out!


Hush! Don't give away my secrets!!! : )

On 12/23/2013 1:20 PM, Bill wrote:
Larry Kraus wrote:
I'm thinking that after a couple more times of replying to your own
posts you will have this totally sorted out!


Hush! Don't give away my secrets!!! : )
Lemmee help. Anybody out there have plans for a pointy stick?
Woodworkers Orgasm Magazine says that the Binford 3K is the best blurfl
around. Anybody have other opinions? Can we start a thread on the
stupidest way to trash the president? Now I will disappear. Happy
Holidaze all.
mahalo,
[anon]

jo4hn wrote:
On 12/23/2013 1:20 PM, Bill wrote:
Larry Kraus wrote:
I'm thinking that after a couple more times of replying to your own
posts you will have this totally sorted out!


Hush! Don't give away my secrets!!! : )
Lemmee help. Anybody out there have plans for a pointy stick?
Woodworkers Orgasm Magazine says that the Binford 3K is the best
blurfl around. Anybody have other opinions? Can we start a thread on
the stupidest way to trash the president? Now I will disappear.
Happy Holidaze all.
mahalo,
[anon]

Mr. Mahalo, Think of it as "Call and Response" (a beautiful musical
concept).
Bill

jo4hn wrote in
m:

Lemmee help. Anybody out there have plans for a pointy stick?
Woodworkers Orgasm Magazine says that the Binford 3K is the best blurfl
around. Anybody have other opinions? Can we start a thread on the
stupidest way to trash the president? Now I will disappear. Happy
Holidaze all.
mahalo,
[anon]

I made a pointy stick a few weeks ago. It needed to be pointy on the
end, with the point facing the inside. I'm sure the procedure would be
different if the point needed to face the outside. As it was, I had to
turn the stick around and cut the inside on the outside but it worked
just fine.

A round pointy stick calls for a lathe, right? Well, that calls for a
chuck or careful turning between centers and I didn't have any of that.
I chucked a dowel into my trusty Makita and reached for my trusty block
plane. I use that block plane more than just about anything except the
tools I use more than. Spin the drill, hold the plane up to the drill
and in seconds I've got a pointy stick.

If you need one that points the other way, put the drill in reverse and
cut it from the other side.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

On Sun, 22 Dec 2013 19:11:18 -0500, Bill
wrote:

Bill wrote:
I never claimed to by a physicist or engineer, but I have found myself
trying to think like one in recent days.

By borrowing from numerous sources and integrating a couple ideas of
my own, I drew up a blade guard design and assembly which suits my
present purposes.

It relies however on a short vertical beam being supported ("hung") by
a short supported length of 2by4. The shot vertical beam may consist
of a short length of square steel tubing, a short length of 2by4
material, or similar.

I would like to be able to MOVE the beam along the length of the 2by4
(for horizontal adjustment). My question is: Is there a familiar
hardware item that will help me with this? All it needs to do is wrap
("hook") around the 2by4 and provide a means to attach what I want.
It seems "definitely related" to a joist hanger, but seems to be
something different. The joist hangers that I have seen do not have
"hooks to wrap around the top of the support" (probably because that
would not evenly distribute the "load" in general).

BTW, I AM striving to be mindful of "torsional" forces.

Bill

It occurred to me that a regular joist hanger slung over the supported
2by4, sort of fits my request--but would not be nearly strong enough
(to have things hanging from, without screws, nails, etc.)

Just a question as it seems like your planning to mount your guard to
the ceiling, Since you went to great trouble to get the mobile base
under the saw, are you planning on moving the saw regularly? If so
you might be ahead to look at how Biesemeyer does there overhead
guard. If I read correct your copying their gurard but mounting it to
the ceiling. If you can weld it would be easy to fabricate one that
attaches to your table, other wise when you move the saw out of the
way you have an obstacle to walk into. If you don't plan on moving
the saw again then it wouldn't matter. I just checked the price on
the system now and I can understand why you don't want to just buy
one. Starting to realize what a good deal I got when I bought my used
unisaw.

Mike M

Mike M wrote:
On Sun, 22 Dec 2013 19:11:18 -0500, Bill
wrote:

Bill wrote:
I never claimed to by a physicist or engineer, but I have found myself
trying to think like one in recent days.

By borrowing from numerous sources and integrating a couple ideas of
my own, I drew up a blade guard design and assembly which suits my
present purposes.

It relies however on a short vertical beam being supported ("hung") by
a short supported length of 2by4. The shot vertical beam may consist
of a short length of square steel tubing, a short length of 2by4
material, or similar.

I would like to be able to MOVE the beam along the length of the 2by4
(for horizontal adjustment). My question is: Is there a familiar
hardware item that will help me with this? All it needs to do is wrap
("hook") around the 2by4 and provide a means to attach what I want.
It seems "definitely related" to a joist hanger, but seems to be
something different. The joist hangers that I have seen do not have
"hooks to wrap around the top of the support" (probably because that
would not evenly distribute the "load" in general).

BTW, I AM striving to be mindful of "torsional" forces.

Bill
It occurred to me that a regular joist hanger slung over the supported
2by4, sort of fits my request--but would not be nearly strong enough
(to have things hanging from, without screws, nails, etc.)
Just a question as it seems like your planning to mount your guard to
the ceiling,
I am not planning to mount it to the ceiling now Mike, but perhaps
eventually. I am presently planning to attach it, via linkage, to a
2by4 supported between two A-Frames (no "rocket science" going on
there). I'll start with a four or five foot 2by4 and see how that
works. That will make it easy enough to move a few feet to the left or
right, as necessary. The TS does move easily on it's mobile base, but
the whole floor does not lie in a plane. I haven't had the TS long
enough to say exactly where it is going to stay. In fact, I'm still
eager to turn it on for the first time! Besides tuning (a side-table
fell out of alignment), I still need to install the appropriate type of
outlet (it was 4-degrees F. last week). At some point, I may bring-in
dust collection, or a jointer, and I would probably adjust the location
of the saw for that. Eventually, I can imagine attaching the guard to
the ceiling, and that would not be a huge issue. It appears that most of
the time will go into making the hood of the blade guard. I've observed
that I could buy one for $30--but not nearly as nice of one (see
below). I've learned a shop is, or would do well to be, a dynamic
animal--especially a small shop. My 20' by 24' space is looking smaller
all the time (especially due to the squatters!) I think DadiOH taught
me that expression, and it always makes me smile (sort of).

I borrowed (i.e. took) the idea for the blade guard itself from Jason
Beamer. Each of its 4 sides slide-up under *appropriate* directional
force. But his guard appears to be 23" long! Before I start cutting, I
will build a prototype (out of cardboard, etc), and see if I can shorten
it and still capture its desirable features. The design for the linkage
was basically a function of it's constraints. One of them is that the
top of the guard needs to be held firmly in place to offer the most
safety. Another is that it needs to be "easily tunable" (so that it
rests squarely on the table). I sort of enjoyed the 20 or 30 minutes it
took me to work those features out (in the design). What I really mean,
I guess, is that I enjoyed it after I was finished! : ) And surely, I
didn't think of everything. In earlier posts, I went into detail about
how I would like to adjust the location of the guard horizontally (by
sliding along the beam). As you know better than I do, sometimes the
blade needs to be pretty close to the fence.

Since you went to great trouble to get the mobile base
under the saw, are you planning on moving the saw regularly?
Most of the trouble was re-attaching the 4-inch sub-base to the bottom
of the cabinet. Although the saw tipped (almost over) in the process,
moving it (dropping it?) into the mobile base was very little trouble.
It is quite easy to manage the weight via the long rails, and by using
shims. We had the saw 7 1/2" off the ground (using two stacks of five
24" 2by8s). Some of those pieces are soon be transformed into push
sticks! : )

Cheers,
Bill



If so
you might be ahead to look at how Biesemeyer does there overhead
guard. If I read correct your copying their gurard but mounting it to
the ceiling. If you can weld it would be easy to fabricate one that
attaches to your table, other wise when you move the saw out of the
way you have an obstacle to walk into. If you don't plan on moving
the saw again then it wouldn't matter. I just checked the price on
the system now and I can understand why you don't want to just buy
one. Starting to realize what a good deal I got when I bought my used
unisaw.

Mike M

Doug Miller wrote:
Bill wrote in :

I tried to pick up some Lexan at a Borg today, but did not score (that's
a little glass humor...).
As far as I know, the only places in Indy where you can buy polycarbonate plastic (Lexan) a
-- Meyer Plastics on E. 65th St., 1/2 mi west of Binford Blvd
-- Auburn Plastics on Shadeland Ave, 1/4 mi north of I-70

Thank you for the suggestion Doug. Meyer Plastics only sells full (4'x8') sheets, besides their custom work--which I think is their bread and butter. But there was 4 square feet of 1/4" "Bayer" Makrolon (polycarbonate),ISO-9000:2001, (made by Sheffield Plastics) in their cut-off bin and they sold it to me at an excellent price. I'm not sure of the properties of the stuff, but I have little doubt that it even more adequate than the 1/8" Makrolon GP (general purpose?) that I went there after. So now, I feel like I have a fine a piece of exotic material, but thicker than I expected to get, and I will have to further consider how I am going to work it (where is a router table when you need one?) But at least now I know (or think) God is behind me on this one!

Fortunately, I was introduced to sanding polycarbonate (I think) when I was about 11 years old in the Boy Clubs of America (now the Boys & Girls Clubs of America).

I doubt I would have found the facility before it closed without help from my Garmin GPS device (highly recommended to those who haven't tried one).
Excuse me for writing so much this week--my wife will be returning tomorrow!

Bill

On 12/27/2013 7:52 PM, Bill wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:
Bill wrote in
:

I tried to pick up some Lexan at a Borg today, but did not score (that's
a little glass humor...).
As far as I know, the only places in Indy where you can buy
polycarbonate plastic (Lexan) a
-- Meyer Plastics on E. 65th St., 1/2 mi west of Binford Blvd
-- Auburn Plastics on Shadeland Ave, 1/4 mi north of I-70

Thank you for the suggestion Doug. Meyer Plastics only sells full
(4'x8') sheets, besides their custom work--which I think is their
bread and butter. But there was 4 square feet of 1/4" "Bayer"
Makrolon (polycarbonate),ISO-9000:2001, (made by Sheffield Plastics)
in their cut-off bin and they sold it to me at an excellent price.
I'm not sure of the properties of the stuff, but I have little doubt
that it even more adequate than the 1/8" Makrolon GP (general
purpose?) that I went there after. So now, I feel like I have a fine
a piece of exotic material, but thicker than I expected to get, and I
will have to further consider how I am going to work it (where is a
router table when you need one?) But at least now I know (or think)
God is behind me on this one!

Fortunately, I was introduced to sanding polycarbonate (I think) when
I was about 11 years old in the Boy Clubs of America (now the Boys &
Girls Clubs of America).

I doubt I would have found the facility before it closed without help
from my Garmin GPS device (highly recommended to those who haven't
tried one).
Excuse me for writing so much this week--my wife will be returning
tomorrow!

Bill

Not sure of the price you paid, but 1/4" will be very useful.
Consider that it would be great for many projects.
Now if you are using this for the blade guard, consider making the arms
long, so that you can counterbalance the weight of the guard if the
guard comes out heavy. The counter weight would make guard lighter. This
is not hard to re-engineer Bill, everything we do in life we must adjust
to the situation.

--
Jeff

woodchucker wrote:
On 12/27/2013 7:52 PM, Bill wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:
Bill wrote in
:

I tried to pick up some Lexan at a Borg today, but did not score
(that's
a little glass humor...).
As far as I know, the only places in Indy where you can buy
polycarbonate plastic (Lexan) a
-- Meyer Plastics on E. 65th St., 1/2 mi west of Binford Blvd
-- Auburn Plastics on Shadeland Ave, 1/4 mi north of I-70

Thank you for the suggestion Doug. Meyer Plastics only sells full
(4'x8') sheets, besides their custom work--which I think is their
bread and butter. But there was 4 square feet of 1/4" "Bayer"
Makrolon (polycarbonate),ISO-9000:2001, (made by Sheffield Plastics)
in their cut-off bin and they sold it to me at an excellent price.
I'm not sure of the properties of the stuff, but I have little doubt
that it even more adequate than the 1/8" Makrolon GP (general
purpose?) that I went there after. So now, I feel like I have a fine
a piece of exotic material, but thicker than I expected to get, and I
will have to further consider how I am going to work it (where is a
router table when you need one?) But at least now I know (or think)
God is behind me on this one!

Fortunately, I was introduced to sanding polycarbonate (I think) when
I was about 11 years old in the Boy Clubs of America (now the Boys &
Girls Clubs of America).

I doubt I would have found the facility before it closed without help
from my Garmin GPS device (highly recommended to those who haven't
tried one).
Excuse me for writing so much this week--my wife will be returning
tomorrow!

Bill

Not sure of the price you paid, but 1/4" will be very useful.
Consider that it would be great for many projects.
Now if you are using this for the blade guard, consider making the
arms long, so that you can counterbalance the weight of the guard if
the guard comes out heavy. The counter weight would make guard
lighter. This is not hard to re-engineer Bill, everything we do in
life we must adjust to the situation.

Thanks Jeff. Here is a link to a video showing the *actual guard* I
want to make. The linkage and support are separate projects. Notice
that the top of the guard never moves (while sawing).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxZOO_zcpNM

Bill

Bill wrote:
woodchucker wrote:
On 12/27/2013 7:52 PM, Bill wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:
Bill wrote in
:

I tried to pick up some Lexan at a Borg today, but did not score
(that's
a little glass humor...).
As far as I know, the only places in Indy where you can buy
polycarbonate plastic (Lexan) a
-- Meyer Plastics on E. 65th St., 1/2 mi west of Binford Blvd
-- Auburn Plastics on Shadeland Ave, 1/4 mi north of I-70

Thank you for the suggestion Doug. Meyer Plastics only sells full
(4'x8') sheets, besides their custom work--which I think is their
bread and butter. But there was 4 square feet of 1/4" "Bayer"
Makrolon (polycarbonate),ISO-9000:2001, (made by Sheffield
Plastics) in their cut-off bin and they sold it to me at an
excellent price. I'm not sure of the properties of the stuff, but
I have little doubt that it even more adequate than the 1/8"
Makrolon GP (general purpose?) that I went there after. So now, I
feel like I have a fine a piece of exotic material, but thicker
than I expected to get, and I will have to further consider how I
am going to work it (where is a router table when you need one?) But at
least now I know (or think) God is behind me on this one!

Fortunately, I was introduced to sanding polycarbonate (I think)
when I was about 11 years old in the Boy Clubs of America (now the
Boys & Girls Clubs of America).

I doubt I would have found the facility before it closed without
help from my Garmin GPS device (highly recommended to those who
haven't tried one).
Excuse me for writing so much this week--my wife will be returning
tomorrow!

Bill

Not sure of the price you paid, but 1/4" will be very useful.
Consider that it would be great for many projects.
Now if you are using this for the blade guard, consider making the
arms long, so that you can counterbalance the weight of the guard if
the guard comes out heavy. The counter weight would make guard
lighter. This is not hard to re-engineer Bill, everything we do in
life we must adjust to the situation.

Thanks Jeff. Here is a link to a video showing the *actual guard* I
want to make. The linkage and support are separate projects. Notice
that the top of the guard never moves (while sawing).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxZOO_zcpNM

Bill

Hey Bill - I don't know if this happens for everyone, but at least in my
reader, your replies to people are run on with their original comments,
which makes it difficult to sort out and find what you are saying without
re-reading everything. I left the above text intact so you could see how it
looks in my reader. Often times the gets kinda lost in the run together
text which makes sorting out your comments difficult. My reader has put the
various insertions in so your comments appear easier to see above, but
when your posts arrive your comments don't have that so it's hard to sort
out your text.

Do you put a new line in between the previous poster's comments and the
comments you are adding? Maybe it's your reader or maybe you're not putting
a new line in before you begin your comments(?).

Just thought I'd let you know...

--

-Mike-

Mike Marlow wrote:
Do you put a new line in between the previous poster's comments and
the comments you are adding? Maybe it's your reader or maybe you're
not putting a new line in before you begin your comments(?). Just
thought I'd let you know...




I am aware of the problem Mike. I'm not sure what to do about it (but
I'll try a little harder).

Whenever I post, I:

1. Edit in HTML-Mode in Thunderbird (so that I can view large text). In
text-mode I don't believe I can make it large enough.
2. Copy my reply into Wordpad and Paste it into the Thunderbird editor
3. Post as text file.

When I do this, as you've noticed, it does not leave blank lines ahead
of my text. I added a couple of blank lines in both places this time,
both in the text file and in the html file ahead of where I did the
paste. Let's see how it comes out. Bear with me, this must be fixable.
Sorry for your inconvenience!

Bill

Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
Do you put a new line in between the previous poster's comments and
the comments you are adding? Maybe it's your reader or maybe you're
not putting a new line in before you begin your comments(?). Just
thought I'd let you know...




I am aware of the problem Mike. I'm not sure what to do about it (but
I'll try a little harder).

Whenever I post, I:

1. Edit in HTML-Mode in Thunderbird (so that I can view large text).
In text-mode I don't believe I can make it large enough.
2. Copy my reply into Wordpad and Paste it into the Thunderbird editor
3. Post as text file.

When I do this, as you've noticed, it does not leave blank lines ahead
of my text. I added a couple of blank lines in both places this time,
both in the text file and in the html file ahead of where I did the
paste. Let's see how it comes out. Bear with me, this must be
fixable. Sorry for your inconvenience!

Bill


It seemed to have worked that time. This time I am typing directly into
Thunderbird's html editor, and I have left 2 blank lines above. I bet
they get dropped. Let's see.

Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
Do you put a new line in between the previous poster's comments and
the comments you are adding? Maybe it's your reader or maybe you're
not putting a new line in before you begin your comments(?). Just
thought I'd let you know...




I am aware of the problem Mike. I'm not sure what to do about it (but
I'll try a little harder).

Whenever I post, I:

1. Edit in HTML-Mode in Thunderbird (so that I can view large text). In
text-mode I don't believe I can make it large enough.
2. Copy my reply into Wordpad and Paste it into the Thunderbird editor
3. Post as text file.

When I do this, as you've noticed, it does not leave blank lines ahead
of my text. I added a couple of blank lines in both places this time,
both in the text file and in the html file ahead of where I did the
paste. Let's see how it comes out. Bear with me, this must be
fixable. Sorry for your inconvenience!


Man - that's a lot of work to post some thoughts Bill. Your reply did come
through with the added new lines inserted this time.

--

-Mike-

Bill wrote:
Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
Do you put a new line in between the previous poster's comments and
the comments you are adding? Maybe it's your reader or maybe you're
not putting a new line in before you begin your comments(?). Just
thought I'd let you know...




I am aware of the problem Mike. I'm not sure what to do about it
(but I'll try a little harder).

Whenever I post, I:

1. Edit in HTML-Mode in Thunderbird (so that I can view large text).
In text-mode I don't believe I can make it large enough.
2. Copy my reply into Wordpad and Paste it into the Thunderbird
editor 3. Post as text file.

When I do this, as you've noticed, it does not leave blank lines
ahead of my text. I added a couple of blank lines in both places
this time, both in the text file and in the html file ahead of where
I did the paste. Let's see how it comes out. Bear with me, this
must be fixable. Sorry for your inconvenience!

Bill


It seemed to have worked that time. This time I am typing directly
into Thunderbird's html editor, and I have left 2 blank lines above. I bet
they get dropped. Let's see.

Nope - they seem to have come through.

--

-Mike-

On 12/27/2013 8:46 PM, Bill wrote:
woodchucker wrote:
On 12/27/2013 7:52 PM, Bill wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:
Bill wrote in
:

I tried to pick up some Lexan at a Borg today, but did not score
(that's
a little glass humor...).
As far as I know, the only places in Indy where you can buy
polycarbonate plastic (Lexan) a
-- Meyer Plastics on E. 65th St., 1/2 mi west of Binford Blvd
-- Auburn Plastics on Shadeland Ave, 1/4 mi north of I-70

Thank you for the suggestion Doug. Meyer Plastics only sells full
(4'x8') sheets, besides their custom work--which I think is their
bread and butter. But there was 4 square feet of 1/4" "Bayer"
Makrolon (polycarbonate),ISO-9000:2001, (made by Sheffield Plastics)
in their cut-off bin and they sold it to me at an excellent price.
I'm not sure of the properties of the stuff, but I have little doubt
that it even more adequate than the 1/8" Makrolon GP (general
purpose?) that I went there after. So now, I feel like I have a fine
a piece of exotic material, but thicker than I expected to get, and I
will have to further consider how I am going to work it (where is a
router table when you need one?) But at least now I know (or think)
God is behind me on this one!

Fortunately, I was introduced to sanding polycarbonate (I think) when
I was about 11 years old in the Boy Clubs of America (now the Boys &
Girls Clubs of America).

I doubt I would have found the facility before it closed without help
from my Garmin GPS device (highly recommended to those who haven't
tried one).
Excuse me for writing so much this week--my wife will be returning
tomorrow!

Bill

Not sure of the price you paid, but 1/4" will be very useful.
Consider that it would be great for many projects.
Now if you are using this for the blade guard, consider making the
arms long, so that you can counterbalance the weight of the guard if
the guard comes out heavy. The counter weight would make guard
lighter. This is not hard to re-engineer Bill, everything we do in
life we must adjust to the situation.

Thanks Jeff. Here is a link to a video showing the *actual guard* I
want to make. The linkage and support are separate projects. Notice
that the top of the guard never moves (while sawing).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxZOO_zcpNM

Bill


Ok, that won't require a counter balance.


--
Jeff

On 12/28/2013 2:18 AM, Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
Do you put a new line in between the previous poster's comments and
the comments you are adding? Maybe it's your reader or maybe you're
not putting a new line in before you begin your comments(?). Just
thought I'd let you know...




I am aware of the problem Mike. I'm not sure what to do about it (but
I'll try a little harder).

Whenever I post, I:

1. Edit in HTML-Mode in Thunderbird (so that I can view large text). In
text-mode I don't believe I can make it large enough.
2. Copy my reply into Wordpad and Paste it into the Thunderbird editor
3. Post as text file.

When I do this, as you've noticed, it does not leave blank lines ahead
of my text. I added a couple of blank lines in both places this time,
both in the text file and in the html file ahead of where I did the
paste. Let's see how it comes out. Bear with me, this must be fixable.
Sorry for your inconvenience!

Bill

Bill I use thunderbird too, just hit control plus in text mode it makes
the text larger.

--
Jeff

On Sat, 28 Dec 2013 02:18:02 -0500, Bill wrote:

1. Edit in HTML-Mode in Thunderbird (so that I can view large text). In
text-mode I don't believe I can make it large enough. 2. Copy my reply
into Wordpad and Paste it into the Thunderbird editor 3. Post as text
file.

Bill, that's a lot of extra work to get larger text. In Tbird, just
click on "format", then "size", and pick large, x-large, or xx-large.

--
This message was for rec.woodworking - if it appears in homeownershub
they ripped it off.

On 12/28/2013 12:53 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Sat, 28 Dec 2013 02:18:02 -0500, Bill wrote:

1. Edit in HTML-Mode in Thunderbird (so that I can view large text). In
text-mode I don't believe I can make it large enough. 2. Copy my reply
into Wordpad and Paste it into the Thunderbird editor 3. Post as text
file.

Bill, that's a lot of extra work to get larger text. In Tbird, just
click on "format", then "size", and pick large, x-large, or xx-large.

Larry, where in newsgroup reader do you have format? I don't it's a
text version only so no formatting in Tbird

--
Jeff

woodchucker wrote:
On 12/28/2013 2:18 AM, Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
Do you put a new line in between the previous poster's comments and
the comments you are adding? Maybe it's your reader or maybe you're
not putting a new line in before you begin your comments(?). Just
thought I'd let you know...




I am aware of the problem Mike. I'm not sure what to do about it (but
I'll try a little harder).

Whenever I post, I:

1. Edit in HTML-Mode in Thunderbird (so that I can view large text). In
text-mode I don't believe I can make it large enough.
2. Copy my reply into Wordpad and Paste it into the Thunderbird editor
3. Post as text file.

When I do this, as you've noticed, it does not leave blank lines ahead
of my text. I added a couple of blank lines in both places this time,
both in the text file and in the html file ahead of where I did the
paste. Let's see how it comes out. Bear with me, this must be fixable.
Sorry for your inconvenience!

Bill

Bill I use thunderbird too, just hit control plus in text mode it makes
the text larger.





I've been playing around with the configurations for a few minutes. BTW,
I use the SeaMonkey email/newsgroup client (which is akin to
Thunderbird)--not actually Thunderbird, but still "Mozilla", I think.

I guess it is the "colored background" feature that I missed (more than
size). I have a "particularly brilliant" monitor, and a colored
background helps alot. Looking at a 23" white background tires the eyes...

Bill

"Bill" wrote:



1. Edit in HTML-Mode in Thunderbird (so that I can view large
text). In
text-mode I don't believe I can make it large enough.
2. Copy my reply into Wordpad and Paste it into the Thunderbird
editor
3. Post as text file.

When I do this, as you've noticed, it does not leave blank lines
ahead
of my text. I added a couple of blank lines in both places this
time,
both in the text file and in the html file ahead of where I did
the
paste. Let's see how it comes out. Bear with me, this must be
fixable.
Sorry for your inconvenience!


I've been playing around with the configurations for a few minutes.
BTW, I use the SeaMonkey email/newsgroup client (which is akin to
Thunderbird)--not actually Thunderbird, but still "Mozilla", I
think.

I guess it is the "colored background" feature that I missed (more
than size). I have a "particularly brilliant" monitor, and a colored
background helps alot. Looking at a 23" white background tires the
eyes...
-------------------------------------------------------------

What price paranoia.

If Thunderbird duplicates O-E6, then open up a trash identity that
only reads
usenet.

Problem solved.

At least it was for me running XP.

Lew

On Sat, 28 Dec 2013 15:55:44 -0500, woodchucker wrote:

Bill, that's a lot of extra work to get larger text. In Tbird, just
click on "format", then "size", and pick large, x-large, or xx-large.

Larry, where in newsgroup reader do you have format? I don't it's a
text version only so no formatting in Tbird

In my version of Tbird (17.0.2) if I click "write" and put the cursor in
the message body, "insert" and "format" will appear at the top of the
screen.

I don't use Tbird for newsgroups, only for email, but I assume you still
click "write" to respond to a post. I could be wrong.

--
This message was for rec.woodworking - if it appears in homeownershub
they ripped it off.

On 12/28/2013 7:18 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Sat, 28 Dec 2013 15:55:44 -0500, woodchucker wrote:

Bill, that's a lot of extra work to get larger text. In Tbird, just
click on "format", then "size", and pick large, x-large, or xx-large.

Larry, where in newsgroup reader do you have format? I don't it's a
text version only so no formatting in Tbird

In my version of Tbird (17.0.2) if I click "write" and put the cursor in
the message body, "insert" and "format" will appear at the top of the
screen.

I don't use Tbird for newsgroups, only for email, but I assume you still
click "write" to respond to a post. I could be wrong.



Well they are different for mail vs newsgroups.

The options are very different.
BTW Tbird is upto 24.10 and maybe higher since it has wanted to upgrade
me for 2 weeks, and I am holding off right now.
So you are on a very old version.

--
Jeff

Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Sat, 28 Dec 2013 15:55:44 -0500, woodchucker wrote:

Bill, that's a lot of extra work to get larger text. In Tbird, just
click on "format", then "size", and pick large, x-large, or
xx-large.

Larry, where in newsgroup reader do you have format? I don't it's a
text version only so no formatting in Tbird

In my version of Tbird (17.0.2) if I click "write" and put the cursor
in the message body, "insert" and "format" will appear at the top of
the screen.

I don't use Tbird for newsgroups, only for email, but I assume you
still click "write" to respond to a post. I could be wrong.

I think Bill corrected himself and stated that he is using SeaMonkey for
newsgroups. Maybe I misread what he posted, but that's what I thought I
saw. Not being a user of either, I don't know if that makes any difference
or not.

--

-Mike-

Mike Marlow wrote:
I think Bill corrected himself and stated that he is using SeaMonkey
for newsgroups. Maybe I misread what he posted, but that's what I
thought I saw. Not being a user of either, I don't know if that makes
any difference or not.



Yes, I realized it's not the size, it's the background color. And yes,
it's SeaMonkey 2.17.1--I abandoned the newer version 10 minutes after I
tried it. I suspect there may be a solution to my small dilemma at the
Windows level, but it's not that big a deal to me. Can one of those
fancy email clients offer me a colored background?

Cheers,
Bill

Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Sat, 28 Dec 2013 15:55:44 -0500, woodchucker wrote:

Bill, that's a lot of extra work to get larger text. In Tbird, just
click on "format", then "size", and pick large, x-large, or xx-large.

Larry, where in newsgroup reader do you have format? I don't it's a
text version only so no formatting in Tbird
In my version of Tbird (17.0.2) if I click "write" and put the cursor in
the message body, "insert" and "format" will appear at the top of the
screen.

I don't use Tbird for newsgroups, only for email, but I assume you still
click "write" to respond to a post. I could be wrong.




If I post a formatted message, without first passing it through a text
editor (to clean it up), I think it would post with a lot of small errors.
Not sure how you can "format" a text file.

Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
I think Bill corrected himself and stated that he is using SeaMonkey
for newsgroups. Maybe I misread what he posted, but that's what I
thought I saw. Not being a user of either, I don't know if that makes
any difference or not.



Yes, I realized it's not the size, it's the background color. And
yes, it's SeaMonkey 2.17.1--I abandoned the newer version 10 minutes
after I tried it. I suspect there may be a solution to my small
dilemma at the Windows level, but it's not that big a deal to me. Can
one of those fancy email clients offer me a colored background?

Cheers,
Bill




Might want to move this discussion to a different thread so folks don't
abandon all interest in my blade guard! : )

Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
I think Bill corrected himself and stated that he is using SeaMonkey
for newsgroups. Maybe I misread what he posted, but that's what I
thought I saw. Not being a user of either, I don't know if that makes
any difference or not.



Yes, I realized it's not the size, it's the background color. And
yes, it's SeaMonkey 2.17.1--I abandoned the newer version 10 minutes
after I tried it. I suspect there may be a solution to my small
dilemma at the Windows level, but it's not that big a deal to me. Can
one of those fancy email clients offer me a colored background?


I have to say Bill - I'm kind of surprised that your current client can't
offer you that. Colored backgrounds are not really complex things - you'd
think every client could offer that.

--

-Mike-

Bill wrote:

If I post a formatted message, without first passing it through a text
editor (to clean it up), I think it would post with a lot of small
errors. Not sure how you can "format" a text file.

Not sure what you are trying to say here Bill. What exactly, is the problem
you are trying to solve? At a point one has to look at the fact that the
vast majority of the people posting to usenet do not have to worry about
these things, and question one's own thoughts. In other words - I think you
may be imagining boogymen that just don't exist. Why not just use a
newsreader and simply post like the rest of us do?

--

-Mike-

On 12/28/2013 10:40 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:

If I post a formatted message, without first passing it through a text
editor (to clean it up), I think it would post with a lot of small
errors. Not sure how you can "format" a text file.

Not sure what you are trying to say here Bill. What exactly, is the problem
you are trying to solve? At a point one has to look at the fact that the
vast majority of the people posting to usenet do not have to worry about
these things, and question one's own thoughts. In other words - I think you
may be imagining boogymen that just don't exist. Why not just use a
newsreader and simply post like the rest of us do?


Well, he's got a monkey on his back ;-)

--
Jeff

Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
I think Bill corrected himself and stated that he is using SeaMonkey
for newsgroups. Maybe I misread what he posted, but that's what I
thought I saw. Not being a user of either, I don't know if that makes
any difference or not.


Yes, I realized it's not the size, it's the background color. And
yes, it's SeaMonkey 2.17.1--I abandoned the newer version 10 minutes
after I tried it. I suspect there may be a solution to my small
dilemma at the Windows level, but it's not that big a deal to me. Can
one of those fancy email clients offer me a colored background?

I have to say Bill - I'm kind of surprised that your current client can't
offer you that. Colored backgrounds are not really complex things - you'd
think every client could offer that.



They could if it was a priority. Evidently it's not. I'm not sure
newsgroups are a priority to the developers.

Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
I think Bill corrected himself and stated that he is using SeaMonkey
for newsgroups. Maybe I misread what he posted, but that's what I
thought I saw. Not being a user of either, I don't know if that makes
any difference or not.


Yes, I realized it's not the size, it's the background color. And
yes, it's SeaMonkey 2.17.1--I abandoned the newer version 10 minutes
after I tried it. I suspect there may be a solution to my small
dilemma at the Windows level, but it's not that big a deal to me. Can
one of those fancy email clients offer me a colored background?

I have to say Bill - I'm kind of surprised that your current client
can't
offer you that. Colored backgrounds are not really complex things -
you'd
think every client could offer that.



They could if it was a priority. Evidently it's not. I'm not sure
newsgroups are a priority to the developers.



It appearsthat after creating a new message, there is a Format menu-item
under Options that will allow one to choose to create the message in
Text--and it doesn't change the background color I see. That's at least
fewer steps than before. This is the maiden-try--let's see how it posts.

Bill

Bill wrote:

It appears that after creating a new message, there is a Format
menu-item under Options that will allow one to choose to create the
message in Text--and it doesn't change the background color I see.
That's at least alot fewer steps than before. This is the
maiden-try--let's see how it posts.

Bill

That was very nice of you folks to help me fix my newsgroup problem,
that I wasn't even whining about! Now I just need to click one extra
button every time I post (way better than the rigamarole I had been doing!)

Best news years wishes!

Bill

Bill wrote:
Swingman wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:
Markem

Biggest problem is it melts when cut with high speed implements is
what I experienced. I can set my bandsaw on slow as she goes and avoid
the melting problem.
I didn't have a problem with that when I cut Lexan on my table saw a
year
or so ago. And I've
cut plexiglas (acrylic) on the table saw many times without a
melting problem.
Same experience. AAMOF, the company I buy mine from has a Unisaw with a
carbide blade setup in their shop specifically for that purpose. I have
them rough cut the big sheets to make them easier to carry, then cut to
spec on my table saw.

I've also made angled cuts in polycarbonates using the TS-75 with no
problems, and Have also used spiral router bits with good results.

IME, the key component for good results seems to be high quality,
carbide
blades; and high quality spiral bits for routing.
I don't doubt Swingman for a second. But after looking at $70 router
bits (w/bearing), one become curious what they might accomplish with a
BS and emery cloth. Even with a good router bit, the result would
depend on making a good template. And this is a "One-of"-project. With
the "naive approach", I would double-face tape two pieces together and
cut and sand to the line. Please assess.

I am considering using my router template (bushings?) kit, along with
some double-fluted bits. According to the the folks who make Makrolon,
HSS double or triple fluted bits can be used on the material (of course,
that may indeed yield a lower standard). That raised a thought: It
seems like, given a choice, one would want to use larger diameter bits,
both for stability and to help disiplate any heat--though it would
increase the effective speed (proportionally with diameter). In
contrast, all of the spiral bits I've seen are of small diameter. I
don't argue that smaller bits may be more versatile. I would have
experimented already, but I'm going to have to make a make-shift router
table to accomplish this task.

Bill

Bill wrote:
I am considering using my router template (bushings?) kit, along with
some double-fluted bits. According to the the folks who make
Makrolon, HSS double or triple fluted bits can be used on the material
(of course, that may indeed yield a lower standard). That raised a
thought: It seems like, given a choice, one would want to use larger
diameter bits, both for stability and to help disiplate any
heat--though it would increase the effective speed (proportionally
with diameter). In contrast, all of the spiral bits I've seen are of
small diameter. I don't argue that smaller bits may be more
versatile. I would have experimented already, but I'm going to have
to make a make-shift router table to accomplish this task.

Bill


I was reading at Pat Warner's website, and he indicates that large bits
be avoided for the sake of unnecessary vibration (and resonance).

Bill