On Thursday, December 19, 2013 11:03:27 AM UTC-6, k
Not to belabor the point but I think this discussion is worth having... If you're on the left side of the blade, aren't you tending to pinch the board into the blade when you're close to the end of a rip? On the right side of the fence, you're tending to push the side of the board that's against the fence rather than the side that's against the blade.

I would think the side one stands on is partially (high percentage) determined by whether the person is right handed or left handed and which side/position is comfortable to the person. There is no correct or incorrect side, as per the saw or fence, itself.

Belaboring dust collection: My suggestion to Bill would be to not bother with dust collection above the table top, but do get a blade guard. If you were doing production work, there would be a good reason to have the dust collected above the blade. For hobby work, invest in a dust brush, broom & dust pan.... and wear goggles or a face shield, if the dust flies in your face. Your saw is mobile, so I'd suppose you may be using the saw near the garage door, or at least out in the open, convenient to clean up scattered dust from the top. If need be, add a dust port to the guard, later. For the time being, get the saw in safe working order and start doing some woodwork. Spend the proposed dust collection money on lumber, for now.

Screw that dust port. Let's cut some boards.

Sonny

Sonny wrote:
Belaboring dust collection: My suggestion to Bill would be to not bother with dust collection above the table top, but do get a blade guard. If you were doing production work, there would be a good reason to have the dust collected above the blade. For hobby work, invest in a dust brush, broom & dust pan.... and wear goggles or a face shield, if the dust flies in your face. Your saw is mobile, so I'd suppose you may be using the saw near the garage door, or at least out in the open, convenient to clean up scattered dust from the top. If need be, add a dust port to the guard, later. For the time being, get the saw in safe working order and start doing some woodwork. Spend the proposed dust collection money on lumber, for now.

Screw that dust port. Let's cut some boards.

Sonny

Yes, I agree with your spirit. The morning I am thinking of a structure
based on a "quilt rack" model--upside down "T" ends, as legs, with a
mast of of 3/4" steel square tubing.
To that I can attach a Loxan polycarbonate box (blade cover), with
hinged front, sides and back--like the box in this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxZOO_zcpNM

As you suggest, I can always improve upon it.

A dust brush came with the saw, and I already have the broom, dust pan
and face shield! : )

wrote:

If you're on the left side of the blade, aren't you tending to pinch
the board into the blade when you're close to the end of a rip?

No.

On
the right side of the fence, you're tending to push the side of the
board that's against the fence rather than the side that's against the
blade.

I beg to differ. You "tend" to do no such thing. You might do such as a
matter of practice, but that is very different from you "tend" to do. I do
not think there is any such tendency to push left or right no matter which
side you stand on. I know that I am always pushing into the fence.

--

-Mike-

Sonny wrote:


Belaboring dust collection: My suggestion to Bill would be to not
bother with dust collection above the table top, but do get a blade
guard. If you were doing production work, there would be a good
reason to have the dust collected above the blade. For hobby work,
invest in a dust brush, broom & dust pan....


Buy that man a beer! It's about time there was some common sense spoken
here about dust collection!

and wear goggles or a
face shield, if the dust flies in your face. Your saw is mobile, so
I'd suppose you may be using the saw near the garage door, or at
least out in the open, convenient to clean up scattered dust from the
top. If need be, add a dust port to the guard, later. For the time
being, get the saw in safe working order and start doing some
woodwork. Spend the proposed dust collection money on lumber, for
now.

That's the best damned dust collection advise that has shown up in this
forum.



Screw that dust port. Let's cut some boards.


Preach it brother!

--

-Mike-

Bill wrote:
Sonny wrote:
Belaboring dust collection: My suggestion to Bill would be to not
bother with dust collection above the table top, but do get a blade
guard. If you were doing production work, there would be a good
reason to have the dust collected above the blade. For hobby work,
invest in a dust brush, broom & dust pan.... and wear goggles or a
face shield, if the dust flies in your face. Your saw is mobile, so
I'd suppose you may be using the saw near the garage door, or at
least out in the open, convenient to clean up scattered dust from
the top. If need be, add a dust port to the guard, later. For the
time being, get the saw in safe working order and start doing some
woodwork. Spend the proposed dust collection money on lumber, for
now. Screw that dust port. Let's cut some boards.

Sonny

Yes, I agree with your spirit. The morning I am thinking of a
structure based on a "quilt rack" model--upside down "T" ends, as
legs, with a mast of of 3/4" steel square tubing.
To that I can attach a Loxan polycarbonate box (blade cover), with
hinged front, sides and back--like the box in this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxZOO_zcpNM

As you suggest, I can always improve upon it.


Get cutting with that saw Bill! If you keep this up you'll be longer
cutting a board on it than you were wiring your garage lights. Go ahead -
stick a piece of wood in that thing... you'll love the feel of it.

--

-Mike-

On 12/19/2013 11:03 AM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Dec 2013 00:36:45 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 12/18/2013 5:38 PM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 12/18/2013 10:48 AM, Bill wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:
Bill wrote in
:

There is some inspiration to be gleaned from the one of this page of
Grizzly's catalog (bottom of page):
http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2013/Main/13
Dust hose attaches in the wrong place. To do any good at all, the dust
hose needs to attach at
the *front* of the blade guard, not the rear.


That makes sense now. How could they have got that wrong (just
rhetorical question)?
Thanks Doug.

Bill

Well It may not be wrong, SawStop claims extreme efficiency with their
guard and the hose is at the rear. It all depends on the turbulence
and flow inside the guard.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJEi_lWGeLs

Someone posted in the comments section of that video, that the person in
the video is "standing on the wrong side of the fence". What do you think?



Well he is out of the line of kick back if that happened. I say stand
out of direct line and where you feel most comfortable with maintaining
control. I am typically on the left side of the blade.

Not to belabor the point but I think this discussion is worth
having...

If you're on the left side of the blade, aren't you tending to pinch
the board into the blade when you're close to the end of a rip? On
the right side of the fence, you're tending to push the side of the
board that's against the fence rather than the side that's against the
blade.


Not sure I understand pinch the board into the blade.

But I feed with my right hand and hold the work down with the left. My
right hand is grabbing the right side of the board and pushing until the
end is on the table top, then I push directly from the rear. The left
hand keeps the work pushed down and against the fence.
I may or may not use a push device depending on the width of the rip.

On Thu, 19 Dec 2013 15:34:07 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:

Bill wrote:
Sonny wrote:
Belaboring dust collection: My suggestion to Bill would be to not
bother with dust collection above the table top, but do get a blade
guard. If you were doing production work, there would be a good
reason to have the dust collected above the blade. For hobby work,
invest in a dust brush, broom & dust pan.... and wear goggles or a
face shield, if the dust flies in your face. Your saw is mobile, so
I'd suppose you may be using the saw near the garage door, or at
least out in the open, convenient to clean up scattered dust from
the top. If need be, add a dust port to the guard, later. For the
time being, get the saw in safe working order and start doing some
woodwork. Spend the proposed dust collection money on lumber, for
now. Screw that dust port. Let's cut some boards.

Sonny

Yes, I agree with your spirit. The morning I am thinking of a
structure based on a "quilt rack" model--upside down "T" ends, as
legs, with a mast of of 3/4" steel square tubing.
To that I can attach a Loxan polycarbonate box (blade cover), with
hinged front, sides and back--like the box in this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxZOO_zcpNM

As you suggest, I can always improve upon it.


Get cutting with that saw Bill! If you keep this up you'll be longer
cutting a board on it than you were wiring your garage lights. Go ahead -
stick a piece of wood in that thing... you'll love the feel of it.

I think his bigger problem right now is temperature. Hey, Bill, don't
put your tongue on the table! ...and don't shoot your eye out. ;-)

On 12/19/2013 12:58 PM, Bill wrote:
Sonny wrote:
Belaboring dust collection: My suggestion to Bill would be to not
bother with dust collection above the table top, but do get a blade
guard. If you were doing production work, there would be a good
reason to have the dust collected above the blade. For hobby work,
invest in a dust brush, broom & dust pan.... and wear goggles or a
face shield, if the dust flies in your face. Your saw is mobile, so
I'd suppose you may be using the saw near the garage door, or at least
out in the open, convenient to clean up scattered dust from the top.
If need be, add a dust port to the guard, later. For the time being,
get the saw in safe working order and start doing some woodwork.
Spend the proposed dust collection money on lumber, for now.

Screw that dust port. Let's cut some boards.

Sonny

Yes, I agree with your spirit. The morning I am thinking of a structure
based on a "quilt rack" model--upside down "T" ends, as legs, with a
mast of of 3/4" steel square tubing.
To that I can attach a Loxan polycarbonate box (blade cover), with
hinged front, sides and back--like the box in this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxZOO_zcpNM

As you suggest, I can always improve upon it.

A dust brush came with the saw, and I already have the broom, dust pan
and face shield! : )


Bill here is what my woodworking has evolved down to.

I used to over think the possibilities and the what if's.

With experience I have learned to gravitated towards not over thinking
and simply building something. You will learn what has more importance
to you as you become more experienced and can adjust methods and
equipment accordingly. The important thing is to actually create
something and don't worry too much about the dust. Chances are if you
try to prevent sawdust you might spend way too much time doing so and
maybe not be needing to do so. Assess your needs after you make your
mess. ;!)

On Thu, 19 Dec 2013 15:29:19 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:

wrote:

If you're on the left side of the blade, aren't you tending to pinch
the board into the blade when you're close to the end of a rip?

No.

On
the right side of the fence, you're tending to push the side of the
board that's against the fence rather than the side that's against the
blade.

I beg to differ. You "tend" to do no such thing. You might do such as a
matter of practice, but that is very different from you "tend" to do. I do
not think there is any such tendency to push left or right no matter which
side you stand on. I know that I am always pushing into the fence.

You're pushing the same direction; against the fence. The difference
is that the left side of the board is pinching the blade, too.

On 12/19/2013 4:22 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Dec 2013 15:29:19 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:

wrote:

If you're on the left side of the blade, aren't you tending to pinch
the board into the blade when you're close to the end of a rip?

No.

On
the right side of the fence, you're tending to push the side of the
board that's against the fence rather than the side that's against the
blade.

I beg to differ. You "tend" to do no such thing. You might do such as a
matter of practice, but that is very different from you "tend" to do. I do
not think there is any such tendency to push left or right no matter which
side you stand on. I know that I am always pushing into the fence.

You're pushing the same direction; against the fence. The difference
is that the left side of the board is pinching the blade, too.



Actually the left side of the wood only pinches the blade if your fence
is not parallel to the blade, skewed away from the blade on the back
side of the blade. Or if you are incorrectly pushing the wood from the
left side after it has passed the front of the blade.

wrote:
On Thu, 19 Dec 2013 15:29:19 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:

wrote:

If you're on the left side of the blade, aren't you tending to pinch
the board into the blade when you're close to the end of a rip?

No.

On
the right side of the fence, you're tending to push the side of the
board that's against the fence rather than the side that's against
the blade.

I beg to differ. You "tend" to do no such thing. You might do such
as a matter of practice, but that is very different from you "tend"
to do. I do not think there is any such tendency to push left or
right no matter which side you stand on. I know that I am always
pushing into the fence.

You're pushing the same direction; against the fence. The difference
is that the left side of the board is pinching the blade, too.

No - it's really not. The kerf prevents that very action. Remember - I'm
not pushing against the fence ahead of the blade. I'm curious how you feel
that pushing against the fence could cause any problems - that's exactly
what you want to do.

--

-Mike-

Leon wrote:
On 12/19/2013 12:58 PM, Bill wrote:
Sonny wrote:
Belaboring dust collection: My suggestion to Bill would be to not
bother with dust collection above the table top, but do get a blade
guard. If you were doing production work, there would be a good
reason to have the dust collected above the blade. For hobby work,
invest in a dust brush, broom & dust pan.... and wear goggles or a
face shield, if the dust flies in your face. Your saw is mobile, so
I'd suppose you may be using the saw near the garage door, or at least
out in the open, convenient to clean up scattered dust from the top.
If need be, add a dust port to the guard, later. For the time being,
get the saw in safe working order and start doing some woodwork.
Spend the proposed dust collection money on lumber, for now.

Screw that dust port. Let's cut some boards.

Sonny

Yes, I agree with your spirit. The morning I am thinking of a structure
based on a "quilt rack" model--upside down "T" ends, as legs, with a
mast of of 3/4" steel square tubing.
To that I can attach a Loxan polycarbonate box (blade cover), with
hinged front, sides and back--like the box in this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxZOO_zcpNM

As you suggest, I can always improve upon it.

A dust brush came with the saw, and I already have the broom, dust pan
and face shield! : )


Bill here is what my woodworking has evolved down to.

I used to over think the possibilities and the what if's.

With experience I have learned to gravitated towards not over thinking
and simply building something. You will learn what has more
importance to you as you become more experienced and can adjust
methods and equipment accordingly. The important thing is to actually
create something and don't worry too much about the dust. Chances are
if you try to prevent sawdust you might spend way too much time doing
so and maybe not be needing to do so. Assess your needs after you make
your mess. ;!)
The "mess" is not a concern at all. It just makes sense to use a blade
cover. Like krw mentioned, my "O-Rings" would crack up here! I spent
several hours yesterday thinking about blade covers. Some
"engineering-like" thinking too.
Folks act like I'm sitting on my hands. Evidently, I need to learn to
work Lexan Polycarbonate! It's sort of like wood, except you can see
through it!

Bill

On Thu, 19 Dec 2013 16:26:20 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 12/19/2013 4:22 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Dec 2013 15:29:19 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:

wrote:

If you're on the left side of the blade, aren't you tending to pinch
the board into the blade when you're close to the end of a rip?

No.

On
the right side of the fence, you're tending to push the side of the
board that's against the fence rather than the side that's against the
blade.

I beg to differ. You "tend" to do no such thing. You might do such as a
matter of practice, but that is very different from you "tend" to do. I do
not think there is any such tendency to push left or right no matter which
side you stand on. I know that I am always pushing into the fence.

You're pushing the same direction; against the fence. The difference
is that the left side of the board is pinching the blade, too.



Actually the left side of the wood only pinches the blade if your fence
is not parallel to the blade, skewed away from the blade on the back
side of the blade. Or if you are incorrectly pushing the wood from the
left side after it has passed the front of the blade.

Huh? The fence on that SS is on the right side of the blade, no? The
issue isn't the alignment at all.

The issue I'm talking about is when you get to the end of the board,
which side of the blade are your finners (push stick) on? I say it
should be on the right side of the blade so the board is being held
against the blade, rather then the left side so you're holding the
board against the blade.

On Thu, 19 Dec 2013 17:30:34 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:

wrote:
On Thu, 19 Dec 2013 15:29:19 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:

wrote:

If you're on the left side of the blade, aren't you tending to pinch
the board into the blade when you're close to the end of a rip?

No.

On
the right side of the fence, you're tending to push the side of the
board that's against the fence rather than the side that's against
the blade.

I beg to differ. You "tend" to do no such thing. You might do such
as a matter of practice, but that is very different from you "tend"
to do. I do not think there is any such tendency to push left or
right no matter which side you stand on. I know that I am always
pushing into the fence.

You're pushing the same direction; against the fence. The difference
is that the left side of the board is pinching the blade, too.

No - it's really not. The kerf prevents that very action. Remember - I'm
not pushing against the fence ahead of the blade. I'm curious how you feel
that pushing against the fence could cause any problems - that's exactly
what you want to do.

But you're on the wrong side of the board to push the board against
the fence.

On Thu, 19 Dec 2013 16:15:01 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 12/19/2013 11:03 AM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Dec 2013 00:36:45 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 12/18/2013 5:38 PM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 12/18/2013 10:48 AM, Bill wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:
Bill wrote in
:

There is some inspiration to be gleaned from the one of this page of
Grizzly's catalog (bottom of page):
http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2013/Main/13
Dust hose attaches in the wrong place. To do any good at all, the dust
hose needs to attach at
the *front* of the blade guard, not the rear.


That makes sense now. How could they have got that wrong (just
rhetorical question)?
Thanks Doug.

Bill

Well It may not be wrong, SawStop claims extreme efficiency with their
guard and the hose is at the rear. It all depends on the turbulence
and flow inside the guard.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJEi_lWGeLs

Someone posted in the comments section of that video, that the person in
the video is "standing on the wrong side of the fence". What do you think?



Well he is out of the line of kick back if that happened. I say stand
out of direct line and where you feel most comfortable with maintaining
control. I am typically on the left side of the blade.

Not to belabor the point but I think this discussion is worth
having...

If you're on the left side of the blade, aren't you tending to pinch
the board into the blade when you're close to the end of a rip? On
the right side of the fence, you're tending to push the side of the
board that's against the fence rather than the side that's against the
blade.


Not sure I understand pinch the board into the blade.

You're on the left side of the board, so the left side of the blade.
You're holding onto the left side, so when the board gets to the end,
you're pushing the kerf closed.

But I feed with my right hand and hold the work down with the left. My
right hand is grabbing the right side of the board and pushing until the
end is on the table top, then I push directly from the rear. The left
hand keeps the work pushed down and against the fence.
I may or may not use a push device depending on the width of the rip.

On 12/19/2013 1:42 PM, Sonny wrote:
On Thursday, December 19, 2013 11:03:27 AM UTC-6, k
Not to belabor the point but I think this discussion is worth having... If you're on the left side of the blade, aren't you tending to pinch the board into the blade when you're close to the end of a rip? On the right side of the fence, you're tending to push the side of the board that's against the fence rather than the side that's against the blade.

I would think the side one stands on is partially (high percentage) determined by whether the person is right handed or left handed and which side/position is comfortable to the person. There is no correct or incorrect side, as per the saw or fence, itself.

Belaboring dust collection: My suggestion to Bill would be to not bother with dust collection above the table top, but do get a blade guard. If you were doing production work, there would be a good reason to have the dust collected above the blade. For hobby work, invest in a dust brush, broom & dust pan.... and wear goggles or a face shield, if the dust flies in your face. Your saw is mobile, so I'd suppose you may be using the saw near the garage door, or at least out in the open, convenient to clean up scattered dust from the top. If need be, add a dust port to the guard, later. For the time being, get the saw in safe working order and start doing some woodwork. Spend the proposed dust collection money on lumber, for now.

Screw that dust port. Let's cut some boards.

Sonny


I agree, the dust port should be an afterthought.
I am not big on the guard either. Splitter yes, riving knife better.

If your allergies do bother you you can add the dust collection later.

--
Jeff

woodchucker wrote:

I agree, the dust port should be an afterthought.
I am not big on the guard either. Splitter yes, riving knife better.

If your allergies do bother you you can add the dust collection later.

Yes, just need a blade guard. Was thinking "quilt-rack model"--2
(upside down)
"T"-shaped legs with a length of steel square tubing, or equivalent,
between them.
To that a reasonably simple blade cover fashioned from Lexan
Polycarbonate would be attached.
A disk/belt sander (why did I think of Mike Marlow?), would probably
shape it nicely.

Bill

On 12/19/2013 5:58 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Dec 2013 16:15:01 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 12/19/2013 11:03 AM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Dec 2013 00:36:45 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 12/18/2013 5:38 PM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 12/18/2013 10:48 AM, Bill wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:
Bill wrote in
:

There is some inspiration to be gleaned from the one of this page of
Grizzly's catalog (bottom of page):
http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2013/Main/13
Dust hose attaches in the wrong place. To do any good at all, the dust
hose needs to attach at
the *front* of the blade guard, not the rear.


That makes sense now. How could they have got that wrong (just
rhetorical question)?
Thanks Doug.

Bill

Well It may not be wrong, SawStop claims extreme efficiency with their
guard and the hose is at the rear. It all depends on the turbulence
and flow inside the guard.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJEi_lWGeLs

Someone posted in the comments section of that video, that the person in
the video is "standing on the wrong side of the fence". What do you think?



Well he is out of the line of kick back if that happened. I say stand
out of direct line and where you feel most comfortable with maintaining
control. I am typically on the left side of the blade.

Not to belabor the point but I think this discussion is worth
having...

If you're on the left side of the blade, aren't you tending to pinch
the board into the blade when you're close to the end of a rip? On
the right side of the fence, you're tending to push the side of the
board that's against the fence rather than the side that's against the
blade.


Not sure I understand pinch the board into the blade.

You're on the left side of the board, so the left side of the blade.
You're holding onto the left side, so when the board gets to the end,
you're pushing the kerf closed.

I don't push on the side of the board once it has reached the blade,
that would actually pinch the blade if the wast was narrow.

By the same token you should not use a feather board past the front of
the board.

On 12/19/2013 5:55 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Dec 2013 16:26:20 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 12/19/2013 4:22 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Dec 2013 15:29:19 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:

wrote:

If you're on the left side of the blade, aren't you tending to pinch
the board into the blade when you're close to the end of a rip?

No.

On
the right side of the fence, you're tending to push the side of the
board that's against the fence rather than the side that's against the
blade.

I beg to differ. You "tend" to do no such thing. You might do such as a
matter of practice, but that is very different from you "tend" to do. I do
not think there is any such tendency to push left or right no matter which
side you stand on. I know that I am always pushing into the fence.

You're pushing the same direction; against the fence. The difference
is that the left side of the board is pinching the blade, too.



Actually the left side of the wood only pinches the blade if your fence
is not parallel to the blade, skewed away from the blade on the back
side of the blade. Or if you are incorrectly pushing the wood from the
left side after it has passed the front of the blade.

Huh? The fence on that SS is on the right side of the blade, no? The
issue isn't the alignment at all.

The issue I'm talking about is when you get to the end of the board,
which side of the blade are your finners (push stick) on?

Right side of the blade.



I say it
should be on the right side of the blade so the board is being held
against the blade, rather then the left side so you're holding the
board against the blade.

Yes, correct but I can do that by standing on the left side of the blade.

On 12/19/2013 6:37 PM, Leon wrote:
On 12/19/2013 5:58 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Dec 2013 16:15:01 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 12/19/2013 11:03 AM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Dec 2013 00:36:45 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 12/18/2013 5:38 PM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 12/18/2013 10:48 AM, Bill wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:
Bill wrote in
:

There is some inspiration to be gleaned from the one of this
page of
Grizzly's catalog (bottom of page):
http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2013/Main/13
Dust hose attaches in the wrong place. To do any good at all,
the dust
hose needs to attach at
the *front* of the blade guard, not the rear.


That makes sense now. How could they have got that wrong (just
rhetorical question)?
Thanks Doug.

Bill

Well It may not be wrong, SawStop claims extreme efficiency with
their
guard and the hose is at the rear. It all depends on the turbulence
and flow inside the guard.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJEi_lWGeLs

Someone posted in the comments section of that video, that the
person in
the video is "standing on the wrong side of the fence". What do
you think?



Well he is out of the line of kick back if that happened. I say stand
out of direct line and where you feel most comfortable with
maintaining
control. I am typically on the left side of the blade.

Not to belabor the point but I think this discussion is worth
having...

If you're on the left side of the blade, aren't you tending to pinch
the board into the blade when you're close to the end of a rip? On
the right side of the fence, you're tending to push the side of the
board that's against the fence rather than the side that's against the
blade.


Not sure I understand pinch the board into the blade.

You're on the left side of the board, so the left side of the blade.
You're holding onto the left side, so when the board gets to the end,
you're pushing the kerf closed.

I don't push on the side of the board once it has reached the blade,
that would actually pinch the blade if the wast was narrow.

By the same token you should not use a feather board past the front of
the board.



Past the front of the blade, that is.

On Thu, 19 Dec 2013 18:40:59 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 12/19/2013 5:55 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Dec 2013 16:26:20 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 12/19/2013 4:22 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Dec 2013 15:29:19 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:

wrote:

If you're on the left side of the blade, aren't you tending to pinch
the board into the blade when you're close to the end of a rip?

No.

On
the right side of the fence, you're tending to push the side of the
board that's against the fence rather than the side that's against the
blade.

I beg to differ. You "tend" to do no such thing. You might do such as a
matter of practice, but that is very different from you "tend" to do. I do
not think there is any such tendency to push left or right no matter which
side you stand on. I know that I am always pushing into the fence.

You're pushing the same direction; against the fence. The difference
is that the left side of the board is pinching the blade, too.



Actually the left side of the wood only pinches the blade if your fence
is not parallel to the blade, skewed away from the blade on the back
side of the blade. Or if you are incorrectly pushing the wood from the
left side after it has passed the front of the blade.

Huh? The fence on that SS is on the right side of the blade, no? The
issue isn't the alignment at all.

The issue I'm talking about is when you get to the end of the board,
which side of the blade are your finners (push stick) on?

Right side of the blade.

....and you're standing on the left? What about a 2' wide panel?

I say it
should be on the right side of the blade so the board is being held
against the blade, rather then the left side so you're holding the
board against the blade.

Yes, correct but I can do that by standing on the left side of the blade.

I'm not seeing it with any width of a board.

On Thu, 19 Dec 2013 17:39:10 -0500, Bill
wrote:

Folks act like I'm sitting on my hands. Evidently, I need to learn to
work Lexan Polycarbonate! It's sort of like wood, except you can see
through it!

Biggest problem is it melts when cut with high speed implements is
what I experienced. I can set my bandsaw on slow as she goes and avoid
the melting problem.

Of course using the oven and a form to curved a piece could be a start
of some household discord.

You can find scrap Lexan on the net, I have a box of it I bought
sometime ago.

Mark

wrote:
On Thu, 19 Dec 2013 18:40:59 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 12/19/2013 5:55 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Dec 2013 16:26:20 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 12/19/2013 4:22 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Dec 2013 15:29:19 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:

wrote:

If you're on the left side of the blade, aren't you tending to pinch
the board into the blade when you're close to the end of a rip?

No.

On
the right side of the fence, you're tending to push the side of the
board that's against the fence rather than the side that's against the
blade.

I beg to differ. You "tend" to do no such thing. You might do such as a
matter of practice, but that is very different from you "tend" to do. I do
not think there is any such tendency to push left or right no matter which
side you stand on. I know that I am always pushing into the fence.

You're pushing the same direction; against the fence. The difference
is that the left side of the board is pinching the blade, too.



Actually the left side of the wood only pinches the blade if your fence
is not parallel to the blade, skewed away from the blade on the back
side of the blade. Or if you are incorrectly pushing the wood from the
left side after it has passed the front of the blade.

Huh? The fence on that SS is on the right side of the blade, no? The
issue isn't the alignment at all.

The issue I'm talking about is when you get to the end of the board,
which side of the blade are your finners (push stick) on?

Right side of the blade.

...and you're standing on the left? What about a 2' wide panel?

I say it
should be on the right side of the blade so the board is being held
against the blade, rather then the left side so you're holding the
board against the blade.

Yes, correct but I can do that by standing on the left side of the blade.

I'm not seeing it with any width of a board.

On a 2' wide panel I stand between the blade and the fence, if using a
fence.

Markem wrote:
On Thu, 19 Dec 2013 17:39:10 -0500, Bill
wrote:

Folks act like I'm sitting on my hands. Evidently, I need to learn to
work Lexan Polycarbonate! It's sort of like wood, except you can see
through it!
Biggest problem is it melts when cut with high speed implements is
what I experienced. I can set my bandsaw on slow as she goes and avoid
the melting problem.
Hmm.. My 14" BS is not variable speed. But I have a scroll saw and
a jig saw (and the JS may be variable speed).
Did you melt it trying to buff the edges (I've got an 8in bench
grinder that will run at 1725 RPM on slow).
Thank you for making me aware of the "melting" issue.

Bill

Of course using the oven and a form to curved a piece could be a start
of some household discord.

You can find scrap Lexan on the net, I have a box of it I bought
sometime ago.

Mark

Markem wrote in news:1u87b99rrnn1cs42mii2d54af8u9cqf7ba@
4ax.com:

On Thu, 19 Dec 2013 17:39:10 -0500, Bill
wrote:

Folks act like I'm sitting on my hands. Evidently, I need to learn to
work Lexan Polycarbonate! It's sort of like wood, except you can see
through it!

Biggest problem is it melts when cut with high speed implements is
what I experienced. I can set my bandsaw on slow as she goes and avoid
the melting problem.

I didn't have a problem with that when I cut Lexan on my table saw a year or so ago. And I've
cut plexiglas (acrylic) on the table saw many times without a melting problem.

Doug Miller wrote:
Markem wrote in news:1u87b99rrnn1cs42mii2d54af8u9cqf7ba@
4ax.com:

On Thu, 19 Dec 2013 17:39:10 -0500, Bill
wrote:

Folks act like I'm sitting on my hands. Evidently, I need to learn to
work Lexan Polycarbonate! It's sort of like wood, except you can see
through it!
Biggest problem is it melts when cut with high speed implements is
what I experienced. I can set my bandsaw on slow as she goes and avoid
the melting problem.
I didn't have a problem with that when I cut Lexan on my table saw a year or so ago. And I've
cut plexiglas (acrylic) on the table saw many times without a melting problem.

I exchanged an email with the fellow that made the video and he was very
helpful. He cuts the material with a bandsaw and routes the edges using
a plywood template, on a router table. I will share whatever
presentable results I come up with! : )

Cheers,
Bill

Doug Miller wrote:
Markem

Biggest problem is it melts when cut with high speed implements is
what I experienced. I can set my bandsaw on slow as she goes and avoid
the melting problem.

I didn't have a problem with that when I cut Lexan on my table saw a year
or so ago. And I've
cut plexiglas (acrylic) on the table saw many times without a melting problem.

Same experience. AAMOF, the company I buy mine from has a Unisaw with a
carbide blade setup in their shop specifically for that purpose. I have
them rough cut the big sheets to make them easier to carry, then cut to
spec on my table saw.

I've also made angled cuts in polycarbonates using the TS-75 with no
problems, and Have also used spiral router bits with good results.

IME, the key component for good results seems to be high quality, carbide
blades; and high quality spiral bits for routing.

--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)

Swingman wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:
Markem

Biggest problem is it melts when cut with high speed implements is
what I experienced. I can set my bandsaw on slow as she goes and avoid
the melting problem.
I didn't have a problem with that when I cut Lexan on my table saw a year
or so ago. And I've
cut plexiglas (acrylic) on the table saw many times without a melting problem.
Same experience. AAMOF, the company I buy mine from has a Unisaw with a
carbide blade setup in their shop specifically for that purpose. I have
them rough cut the big sheets to make them easier to carry, then cut to
spec on my table saw.

I've also made angled cuts in polycarbonates using the TS-75 with no
problems, and Have also used spiral router bits with good results.

IME, the key component for good results seems to be high quality, carbide
blades; and high quality spiral bits for routing.

I don't doubt Swingman for a second. But after looking at $70 router
bits (w/bearing), one become curious what they might accomplish with a
BS and emery cloth. Even with a good router bit, the result would
depend on making a good template. And this is a "One-of"-project. With
the "naive approach", I would double-face tape two pieces together and
cut and sand to the line. Please assess.

On Fri, 20 Dec 2013 12:30:46 -0500, Bill
wrote:

Swingman wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:
Markem

Biggest problem is it melts when cut with high speed implements is
what I experienced. I can set my bandsaw on slow as she goes and avoid
the melting problem.
I didn't have a problem with that when I cut Lexan on my table saw a year
or so ago. And I've
cut plexiglas (acrylic) on the table saw many times without a melting problem.
Same experience. AAMOF, the company I buy mine from has a Unisaw with a
carbide blade setup in their shop specifically for that purpose. I have
them rough cut the big sheets to make them easier to carry, then cut to
spec on my table saw.

I've also made angled cuts in polycarbonates using the TS-75 with no
problems, and Have also used spiral router bits with good results.

IME, the key component for good results seems to be high quality, carbide
blades; and high quality spiral bits for routing.

I don't doubt Swingman for a second. But after looking at $70 router
bits (w/bearing), one become curious what they might accomplish with a
BS and emery cloth. Even with a good router bit, the result would
depend on making a good template. And this is a "One-of"-project. With
the "naive approach", I would double-face tape two pieces together and
cut and sand to the line. Please assess.

Sounds like a great plan to me Bill.

Mark

Markem wrote:
On Fri, 20 Dec 2013 12:30:46 -0500, Bill
wrote:

Swingman wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:
Markem

Biggest problem is it melts when cut with high speed implements is
what I experienced. I can set my bandsaw on slow as she goes and avoid
the melting problem.
I didn't have a problem with that when I cut Lexan on my table saw a year
or so ago. And I've
cut plexiglas (acrylic) on the table saw many times without a melting problem.
Same experience. AAMOF, the company I buy mine from has a Unisaw with a
carbide blade setup in their shop specifically for that purpose. I have
them rough cut the big sheets to make them easier to carry, then cut to
spec on my table saw.

I've also made angled cuts in polycarbonates using the TS-75 with no
problems, and Have also used spiral router bits with good results.

IME, the key component for good results seems to be high quality, carbide
blades; and high quality spiral bits for routing.

I don't doubt Swingman for a second. But after looking at $70 router
bits (w/bearing), one become curious what they might accomplish with a
BS and emery cloth. Even with a good router bit, the result would
depend on making a good template. And this is a "One-of"-project. With
the "naive approach", I would double-face tape two pieces together and
cut and sand to the line. Please assess.
Sounds like a great plan to me Bill.

Mark
Thanks Mark! That's all I needed. Just *one* person to blame if it
doesn't work (J/K!).
In retrospect, lots of times the simple ways are the appropriate ones,
and I think this is one of those times.
I tried to pick up some Lexan at a Borg today, but did not score (that's
a little glass humor...).

Bill

Bill wrote in :

I tried to pick up some Lexan at a Borg today, but did not score (that's
a little glass humor...).

As far as I know, the only places in Indy where you can buy polycarbonate plastic (Lexan) a
-- Meyer Plastics on E. 65th St., 1/2 mi west of Binford Blvd
-- Auburn Plastics on Shadeland Ave, 1/4 mi north of I-70

Meyer will let you pick through their scrap bin, and not charge you for whatever you find there.

Bill wrote:

I don't doubt Swingman for a second. But after looking at $70 router
bits (w/bearing), one become curious what they might accomplish with a
BS and emery cloth. Even with a good router bit, the result would
depend on making a good template. And this is a "One-of"-project. With
the "naive approach", I would double-face tape two pieces together and
cut and sand to the line. Please assess.

Some of these thoughts simply come down to different approaches Bill. Karl
is in business. Time is very important to him. As well - the accuracy of
the finished product. On the other hand - for you it's a hobby... or
becoming a hobby. Therefore, you can afford to take approaches that are
more labor intensive, take longer, and might now yield quite the same
finish.

I fabricate a lot of things out of a lot of different materials (though I've
never worked in lexan), and most times I have no template of any kind to go
by, so I can't use automated processes. It would take me too long to get to
that point to make it worth the while. So - I wing it and hand-dangle it in
the way you are suggesting. With a bit of practice, you can get pretty good
at fabbing this way. At least - for a one off need. Nothing saying you
can't turn out a perfectly acceptable product with your approach. It's just
a different approach.

You'll find yourself discovering unforseen hurdles in what appears to be
simple milling work - but that's what we all go through in either approach.
No big deal. I'd encourage you to go ahead with your double side tape
approach. Hell - when I make my inserts for my table saw, I can only get so
far using the factory insert as a guide, and then I have to do 80% of the
work by bringing it to fit with my belt sander mounted in a vise. Just go
slow and easy and don't try to get it all in one smooth pass - that just
won't happen. Good lighting, a constant watchful eye, a careful approach to
the work, and you can make this happen.

Just be thankful you don't have the issues that Karl has to worry about -
payrol, warranty, repeatability, etc. That's the cool part about a hobby
over a job.

--

-Mike-

Mike Marlow wrote:
Just go slow and easy and don't try to get it all in one smooth pass -
that just won't happen.

You don't have to worry about that. This is a multifaceted project. 1.
Blade guard 2. linkage, 3. support.

I have been trying to better understand the "scissors linkage?" which is
a very common one for connecting a blade guard. Even that has a
"practical part" (what goes where) and a theoretical part (how well is
it going to work). I still haven't worked out all of the details, but
I am rather enjoying collecting them. Alot like a jig-saw puzzle.



Good lighting, a constant watchful eye, a careful approach to the
work, and you can make this happen. Just be thankful you don't have
the issues that Karl has to worry about - payrol, warranty,
repeatability, etc. That's the cool part about a hobby over a job.

Yes. Definitely. My edges of my blade guard hood won't be clean-enough
to sell at Walmart. The only edge that really count on my blade guard
hood are the ones that touch the wood. The rest are cosmetic. OTOH, I
was just reading how a board on a piece of furniture that *looks* like
it has been worked to be smooth is a sign of higher quality than a truly
smooth board.

Cheers,
Bill

Bill wrote in
:

*snip*


Yes. Definitely. My edges of my blade guard hood won't be clean-
enough
to sell at Walmart. The only edge that really count on my blade
guard
hood are the ones that touch the wood. The rest are cosmetic. OTOH, I
was just reading how a board on a piece of furniture that *looks* like
it has been worked to be smooth is a sign of higher quality than a
truly
smooth board.

Cheers,
Bill


Just slap a Duck Dynasty sticker on it. Walmart has tons of the stuff.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

On 12/20/2013 11:41 PM, Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
Just go slow and easy and don't try to get it all in one smooth pass -
that just won't happen.

You don't have to worry about that. This is a multifaceted project. 1.
Blade guard 2. linkage, 3. support.

I have been trying to better understand the "scissors linkage?" which is
a very common one for connecting a blade guard. Even that has a
"practical part" (what goes where) and a theoretical part (how well is
it going to work). I still haven't worked out all of the details, but
I am rather enjoying collecting them. Alot like a jig-saw puzzle.



Good lighting, a constant watchful eye, a careful approach to the
work, and you can make this happen. Just be thankful you don't have
the issues that Karl has to worry about - payrol, warranty,
repeatability, etc. That's the cool part about a hobby over a job.

Yes. Definitely. My edges of my blade guard hood won't be clean-enough
to sell at Walmart. The only edge that really count on my blade guard
hood are the ones that touch the wood. The rest are cosmetic. OTOH, I
was just reading how a board on a piece of furniture that *looks* like
it has been worked to be smooth is a sign of higher quality than a truly
smooth board.

Really??? What Asshole said that? Remember opinions are like assholes.
LOOKS like is better than one that is??? WTF

Cheers,
Bill


--
Jeff

On 21 Dec 2013 05:48:45 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

Bill wrote in
:

*snip*


Yes. Definitely. My edges of my blade guard hood won't be clean-
enough
to sell at Walmart. The only edge that really count on my blade
guard
hood are the ones that touch the wood. The rest are cosmetic. OTOH, I
was just reading how a board on a piece of furniture that *looks* like
it has been worked to be smooth is a sign of higher quality than a
truly
smooth board.

Cheers,
Bill


Just slap a Duck Dynasty sticker on it. Walmart has tons of the stuff.

Not any more.

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2527204/Duck-Dynastys-multi-million-payday-Their-400m-empire-flourishes-amid-scandal-fans-flock-support-Phil-Robertson-Walmart-sells-merchandise.html

Puckdropper wrote:
Bill wrote in
:

*snip*

Yes. Definitely. My edges of my blade guard hood won't be clean-
enough
to sell at Walmart. The only edge that really count on my blade
guard
hood are the ones that touch the wood. The rest are cosmetic. OTOH, I
was just reading how a board on a piece of furniture that *looks* like
it has been worked to be smooth is a sign of higher quality than a
truly
smooth board.

Cheers,
Bill

Just slap a Duck Dynasty sticker on it. Walmart has tons of the stuff.

I haven't seen the show. But I have observed the recent "controversy"
surrounding it. As for me, put an Afflack duck sticker on it, and I'll
buy all you can get! : ) Actually, to be honest, "Flo" may rank
higher on my list of celebrity endorsers than the duck... But lets not
get side-tracked.

-Bill

Puckdropper

woodchucker wrote:
On 12/20/2013 11:41 PM, Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
Just go slow and easy and don't try to get it all in one smooth pass -
that just won't happen.

You don't have to worry about that. This is a multifaceted project. 1.
Blade guard 2. linkage, 3. support.

I have been trying to better understand the "scissors linkage?" which is
a very common one for connecting a blade guard. Even that has a
"practical part" (what goes where) and a theoretical part (how well is
it going to work). I still haven't worked out all of the details, but
I am rather enjoying collecting them. Alot like a jig-saw puzzle.



Good lighting, a constant watchful eye, a careful approach to the
work, and you can make this happen. Just be thankful you don't have
the issues that Karl has to worry about - payrol, warranty,
repeatability, etc. That's the cool part about a hobby over a job.

Yes. Definitely. My edges of my blade guard hood won't be clean-enough
to sell at Walmart. The only edge that really count on my blade guard
hood are the ones that touch the wood. The rest are cosmetic. OTOH, I
was just reading how a board on a piece of furniture that *looks* like
it has been worked to be smooth is a sign of higher quality than a truly
smooth board.

Really??? What Asshole said that? Remember opinions are like assholes.
LOOKS like is better than one that is??? WTF
Yes, quit planing, sanding, scraping or whatever it is you're doing
before it looks too perfect! ; )

Bill


Cheers,
Bill

On 12/21/2013 12:44 PM, Bill wrote:
Actually, to be honest, "Flo" may rank higher on my list of celebrity
endorsers than the duck...

Now you're talking!

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
google.com/+KarlCaillouet
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On Sat, 21 Dec 2013 13:44:57 -0500, Bill
wrote:

Puckdropper wrote:
Bill wrote in
:

*snip*

Yes. Definitely. My edges of my blade guard hood won't be clean-
enough
to sell at Walmart. The only edge that really count on my blade
guard
hood are the ones that touch the wood. The rest are cosmetic. OTOH, I
was just reading how a board on a piece of furniture that *looks* like
it has been worked to be smooth is a sign of higher quality than a
truly
smooth board.

Cheers,
Bill

Just slap a Duck Dynasty sticker on it. Walmart has tons of the stuff.

I haven't seen the show. But I have observed the recent "controversy"
surrounding it. As for me, put an Afflack duck sticker on it, and I'll
buy all you can get! : ) Actually, to be honest, "Flo" may rank
higher on my list of celebrity endorsers than the duck... But lets not
get side-tracked.

One of the guys at work ran into her at a Halloween party. Yep,
dressed as Flo. She won best costume (though I think it's cheating
;-).