On 11/28/2013 11:02 AM, Bill wrote:
Sonny wrote:
On Wednesday, November 27, 2013 9:47:25 PM UTC-6, Bill wrote:
I should read the manual too, because I learned some things while I
was scanning it. In particular that the blades should be locked
before the saw is turned on.
And don't torque the lock knobs (height and angle) really tight. Firm
tightening, but not super tight. You'll learn and get the feel for
sufficient tightening. With my older '81 saw, the "tightening" of
the heigth knob has worn, a bit, probably from over tightening.

Three finger firm tightening, if this defines my experience, reasonably.

Yes, I'm getting the hint with "set screws". Next time my bathroom sink
faucet starts to leak, I'll probably be buying new faucets instead of a
$1 rubber part. And that's at least the 2nd time, I've stripped a set
screw in recent history. I even bought a torque-wrench to help me curb
my neanderthalic-tendencies. And, in the one time I've used it so far
(for a lawn-mower spark plug), it may already have paid for itself.

Can I apply lithium grease on the internal parts corresponding to the
height/tilt wheels of the saw, or is there something more suitable for
this purpose?

Bill

The lock tends to be a bear to loosen when you tighten it too much. You
will not make that mistake too often. ;~)

When in doubt tighten with your less dominant hand, it only needs to be
snug. I'm not really sure you could over tighten it with out a pipe
wrench, so you are not likely to break anything if every thing is
working correctly.


IIRC the lock action is simply a cone shaped pointed end on the lock
knob shaft that presses into a cone shaped funnel on the receiving end.
Not like a nut and bolt. If you screw the lock knob out you will see
what is going on.