Bill wrote:
Swingman wrote:
Bill wrote:

I know there are a lot of Forrest WW-II fans, but the reviews were not
very overwhelming, so it's sort of a tough call (but you can see which way I'm leaning).
It is a no brainer call.

Buying a Forrest WW-II is not something you will ever regret. If there was
a better 'bang for the buck' blade out there trust me, I'd own it. It's all
I use except on the rare occasion when I rip 8/4 + hardwoods with a Freud
Glueline Rip, but one of the three WW II's I own is really all that is
necessary at that.


Thank you.

1. With regard to the WW-II, a number of folks were complaining about
their Cherry wood getting burnt. Have you observed any special issues
with Cherry (need to cut it faster?)

While that is a risk working with cherry to some extent, If the blade is
sharp and the feed rate is even, and the cherry still burns, IME most of
the time it is something other than the blade. Poorly setup tool, reaction
wood, etc.

2. I assume any blade that is used to cut plywood is going to dull much
faster than one used for ordinary wood.
Does it make sense then to have a separate blade for plywood, so you can
always have a "nice, sharp" one available for cross-cutting wood? And
besides those 2, I'd expect to use an extra-cheap blade for rough-cutting
plywood.

Use a WW-II and forget about all that. (I have more than one WW-II just so
I can rotate one to Forrest for sharpening when needed). I've used the same
(high quality) Festool blade to both rough and finish cut more plywood in
the past three years than the average woodworker will cut in 20.

Cheap blades are a waste of time/money.

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