Thread: 2002 Unisaw
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woodchucker[_3_] woodchucker[_3_] is offline
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On 1/15/2014 12:21 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/15/2014 3:23 AM, Bill wrote:
Swingman wrote:
Bill wrote:

I know there are a lot of Forrest WW-II fans, but the reviews were not
very overwhelming, so it's sort of a tough call (but you can see
which way I'm leaning).
It is a no brainer call.

Buying a Forrest WW-II is not something you will ever regret. If there
was
a better 'bang for the buck' blade out there trust me, I'd own it.
It's all
I use except on the rare occasion when I rip 8/4 + hardwoods with a
Freud
Glueline Rip, but one of the three WW II's I own is really all that is
necessary at that.


Thank you.

1. With regard to the WW-II, a number of folks were complaining about
their Cherry wood getting burnt. Have you observed any special issues
with Cherry (need to cut it faster?)


One more thing to add concerning burning. There are a lot of schools of
though concerning blade height.

The lower the blade the less exposure you have to it when cutting wood.
BUT the higher it is the less likely of any burning/scorching assuming
the saw is set up correctly. I prefer to have the bottoms of the
carbide teeth to clear the top of the board by about 1/8"


Exactly, I go further then Leon, as I want the gullets clear of the
wood, so the tips get cooled off. Also even higher is a big advantage as
the wood now gets cut down toward the table; when it is low it gets cut
toward you.

When you have a lot of ripping to do, raising the blade as high as
possible will speed the ripping as you can push through much faster with
less resistance and generally cleaner cuts as the blade is only cutting
down.

--
Jeff