Bill wrote:
Swingman wrote:
Bill wrote:

I know there are a lot of Forrest WW-II fans, but the reviews were not
very overwhelming, so it's sort of a tough call (but you can see which way I'm leaning).
It is a no brainer call.

Buying a Forrest WW-II is not something you will ever regret. If there was
a better 'bang for the buck' blade out there trust me, I'd own it. It's all
I use except on the rare occasion when I rip 8/4 + hardwoods with a Freud
Glueline Rip, but one of the three WW II's I own is really all that is
necessary at that.


Thank you.

1. With regard to the WW-II, a number of folks were complaining about
their Cherry wood getting burnt. Have you observed any special issues
with Cherry (need to cut it faster?)

Regardless of the blade, maple and cherry are very easy to burn if you do
not feed the work fast enough. Even on top of that if the wood has the
slightest amount of bow, read that as absolutely not dead ass flat, any
blade has the potential to burn maple or cherry. Assuming you don't feed
the work an an unusually slow rate any burn/scorch can be removed with a
few light passes of a cabinet scraper and or 180 grit sand paper. IMHO not
a factor for which blade to use.


2. I assume any blade that is used to cut plywood is going to dull much
faster than one used for ordinary wood. Does it make sense then to have
a separate blade for plywood, so you can always have a "nice, sharp" one
available for cross-cutting wood? And besides those 2, I'd expect to
use an extra-cheap blade for rough-cutting plywood.


People that talk about blades that dull when cutting plywood and materials
that are not "all wood" are using marginal blades to start with.

The WWII is not going to dull quickly regardless if you are cutting plywood
or solid wood. Buy the best to start with and you will not have to worry
about the blade giving poor results and or dulling prematurely. If you are
having worries with a blade that dulls quickly, that blade was a waste of
money to begin with IMHO.