On 1/15/2014 4:23 AM, Bill wrote:
Swingman wrote:
Bill wrote:

I know there are a lot of Forrest WW-II fans, but the reviews were not
very overwhelming, so it's sort of a tough call (but you can see
which way I'm leaning).
It is a no brainer call.

Buying a Forrest WW-II is not something you will ever regret. If there
was
a better 'bang for the buck' blade out there trust me, I'd own it.
It's all
I use except on the rare occasion when I rip 8/4 + hardwoods with a Freud
Glueline Rip, but one of the three WW II's I own is really all that is
necessary at that.


Thank you.

1. With regard to the WW-II, a number of folks were complaining about
their Cherry wood getting burnt. Have you observed any special issues
with Cherry (need to cut it faster?)

Bill, certain woods burn. So yes you need to move faster, or you need
less teeth when ripping so you can move faster. This is normal period.
I have many blades. _WWII is my goto blade for good cutting. _

When I need to rough rip a alot of wood, I go to a 24T blade I have.
When I need to work on wood that is questionable, I have a variety of
blades I will use..


2. I assume any blade that is used to cut plywood is going to dull much
faster than one used for ordinary wood. Does it make sense then to have
I cut ply with the WWII it will do it well. I don't cut OSB with a WWII,
I use a crappy Delta blade, or a craftsman blade..

a separate blade for plywood, so you can always have a "nice, sharp" one
available for cross-cutting wood? And besides those 2, I'd expect to
use an extra-cheap blade for rough-cutting plywood.

Just get a good blade to start, you don't need the WWII yet. Get it when
you have made all your mistakes and learned about feed speed.

There is nothing wrong with many of the lower blades, they will be more
rough, and splinter more. But some of them will be better than others.
The Freuds are better than many others, but the thin kerf is not needed
or desirable on your saw.

Bill


--
Jeff