Awl --

I do some alum cutting on my RAS, using mostly 60 tooth 10" blades --
everything from 1/8" material, to 3" material, with 1" flat and round bar
being typical.

How significant is chipped/missing carbide on a tooth or two (non-adjacent)?

If a chipped/missing tooth is ok for 60 tooth, how coarse can the blade get
before missing/chipped carbide is not OK?

If dicey on alum, can these chipped blades be used safely on wood?

I will switch to new or unchipped blades awaiting Group Advice.

Also, I have a 10" 80 tooth Morse Metal Devil specifically for alum, which
doesn't look much different than other non-specific 60 tooth carbide
blades -- except the price sticker, $90 !! It was given to me.

I just bought an Avanti two-pack of 10" 60 tooth from HD, for $29. Just
wondering what diffs between the two blades to expect, if any.

Any nifty uses for worn-out RAS blades? Frisbee?? Just scrap'em?
--
EA

"Existential Angst" wrote in message
...
Awl --

I do some alum cutting on my RAS, using mostly 60 tooth 10" blades --
everything from 1/8" material, to 3" material, with 1" flat and round bar
being typical.

How significant is chipped/missing carbide on a tooth or two
(non-adjacent)?

If a chipped/missing tooth is ok for 60 tooth, how coarse can the blade
get before missing/chipped carbide is not OK?

If dicey on alum, can these chipped blades be used safely on wood?

I've used all kinds of chipped-tooth blades on wood for decades. I just save
them for rough work. Just don't feed them too fast, and you probably won't
notice the difference. I don't think that safety is much of an issue, but
I'm careful not to stand in line with any brazed-tooth blade. The little
suckers come off the wheel like bullets.

However, that's on a table saw. I don't use a radial-arm; they're a little
rough for me, even with a perfect blade.


I will switch to new or unchipped blades awaiting Group Advice.

Also, I have a 10" 80 tooth Morse Metal Devil specifically for alum, which
doesn't look much different than other non-specific 60 tooth carbide
blades -- except the price sticker, $90 !! It was given to me.

I just bought an Avanti two-pack of 10" 60 tooth from HD, for $29. Just
wondering what diffs between the two blades to expect, if any.

Any nifty uses for worn-out RAS blades? Frisbee?? Just scrap'em?

How worn out? I have an old diamond wheel from a surface grinder I mount on
a lathe arbor, and sharpen the teeth with a fixture I made that mounts on my
milling attachment. I've used some of the same blades for 35 years.

--
Cheap Ed Huntress

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

"Existential Angst" wrote in message
...
Awl --

I do some alum cutting on my RAS, using mostly 60 tooth 10" blades --
everything from 1/8" material, to 3" material, with 1" flat and round bar
being typical.

How significant is chipped/missing carbide on a tooth or two
(non-adjacent)?

If a chipped/missing tooth is ok for 60 tooth, how coarse can the blade
get before missing/chipped carbide is not OK?

If dicey on alum, can these chipped blades be used safely on wood?

I've used all kinds of chipped-tooth blades on wood for decades. I just
save them for rough work. Just don't feed them too fast, and you probably
won't notice the difference. I don't think that safety is much of an
issue, but I'm careful not to stand in line with any brazed-tooth blade.
The little suckers come off the wheel like bullets.

However, that's on a table saw. I don't use a radial-arm; they're a little
rough for me, even with a perfect blade.


I will switch to new or unchipped blades awaiting Group Advice.

Also, I have a 10" 80 tooth Morse Metal Devil specifically for alum,
which doesn't look much different than other non-specific 60 tooth
carbide blades -- except the price sticker, $90 !! It was given to me.

I just bought an Avanti two-pack of 10" 60 tooth from HD, for $29. Just
wondering what diffs between the two blades to expect, if any.

Any nifty uses for worn-out RAS blades? Frisbee?? Just scrap'em?

How worn out? I have an old diamond wheel from a surface grinder I mount
on a lathe arbor, and sharpen the teeth with a fixture I made that mounts
on my milling attachment. I've used some of the same blades for 35 years.

--
Cheap Ed Huntress


I use the 4th axis index on the fadal and a cup wheel to sharpen circular
saw blades, count the number of teeth and divide 360 by the number of teeth
to get your per-tooth angle increment takes about 6 lines of code to run an
endless loop that takes off a thou at a time

--

On 3/29/2011 5:06 PM, Existential Angst wrote:
Awl --

I do some alum cutting on my RAS, using mostly 60 tooth 10" blades --
everything from 1/8" material, to 3" material, with 1" flat and round bar
being typical.

How significant is chipped/missing carbide on a tooth or two (non-adjacent)?

If a chipped/missing tooth is ok for 60 tooth, how coarse can the blade get
before missing/chipped carbide is not OK?

If dicey on alum, can these chipped blades be used safely on wood?

I will switch to new or unchipped blades awaiting Group Advice.

Also, I have a 10" 80 tooth Morse Metal Devil specifically for alum, which
doesn't look much different than other non-specific 60 tooth carbide
blades -- except the price sticker, $90 !! It was given to me.

I just bought an Avanti two-pack of 10" 60 tooth from HD, for $29. Just
wondering what diffs between the two blades to expect, if any.

Any nifty uses for worn-out RAS blades? Frisbee?? Just scrap'em?



I use a 10" blade table saw for aluminum all the time. I just replaced
a 60T carbide blade that I have been using for about 3 years for mixed
wood and aluminum work. It had started throwing the work and doing
weird things. It was missing a couple teeth for quite some time, but
when I broke out the magnifying glass the rest of the teeth were looking
pretty bad. I don't think a missing tooth or two is all that bad, but
when it just starts to get worn out it gets dangerous. It will throw a
work piece back at you with enough force to cut you up pretty bad.


I was wondering if the blades would make decent knife steel, but other
than that I can't think of a use for them.

On Tue, 29 Mar 2011 21:46:36 -0700, Bob La Londe
wrote:

On 3/29/2011 5:06 PM, Existential Angst wrote:
Awl --


Any nifty uses for worn-out RAS blades? Frisbee?? Just scrap'em?




I was wondering if the blades would make decent knife steel, but other
than that I can't think of a use for them.
Has anyone tried cutting them up to use an individual tooth as a
parting tool?
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

"Existential Angst" on Tue, 29 Mar 2011
20:06:23 -0400 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
Awl --

I do some alum cutting on my RAS, using mostly 60 tooth 10" blades --
everything from 1/8" material, to 3" material, with 1" flat and round bar
being typical.

How significant is chipped/missing carbide on a tooth or two (non-adjacent)?

If a chipped/missing tooth is ok for 60 tooth, how coarse can the blade get
before missing/chipped carbide is not OK?

Depends on how much of a cut/chip load you're taking. As well as
how smooth a finish you care about.

If dicey on alum, can these chipped blades be used safely on wood?

"Depends on how much of a cut/chipload and the nature of the
finish you want."

I will switch to new or unchipped blades awaiting Group Advice.

Also, I have a 10" 80 tooth Morse Metal Devil specifically for alum, which
doesn't look much different than other non-specific 60 tooth carbide
blades -- except the price sticker, $90 !! It was given to me.

I just bought an Avanti two-pack of 10" 60 tooth from HD, for $29. Just
wondering what diffs between the two blades to expect, if any.

In the two pack?

Any nifty uses for worn-out RAS blades? Frisbee?? Just scrap'em?

Coasters?
--
pyotr filipivich
We will drink no whiskey before its nine.
It's eight fifty eight. Close enough!

The missing/chipped teeth mean you have hit a nail or something
really hard. Aluminum did NOT do it. If these are quality
blades, take them to a commercial saw blade sharpening service.
They will replace missing teeth and advise on whether the blade is
worth messing with.

I suspect the Morse blade you mention is made for cutting steel,
not aluminum (though, it will work). Here is some information:
http://www.mkmorse.com/products/index.aspx?product=75

Old blades make decent knife blades or you can mount battery clock
movements on them to give as gifts. Maybe you know someone who
likes to paint sawblades. It hurts my soul to see a fine old
London 12 or similar with its cutesy snow scene.

--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
DanG
Keep the whole world singing . . .


"Existential Angst" wrote in message
...
Awl --

I do some alum cutting on my RAS, using mostly 60 tooth 10"
blades -- everything from 1/8" material, to 3" material, with
1" flat and round bar being typical.

How significant is chipped/missing carbide on a tooth or two
(non-adjacent)?

If a chipped/missing tooth is ok for 60 tooth, how coarse can
the blade get before missing/chipped carbide is not OK?

If dicey on alum, can these chipped blades be used safely on
wood?

I will switch to new or unchipped blades awaiting Group Advice.

Also, I have a 10" 80 tooth Morse Metal Devil specifically for
alum, which doesn't look much different than other non-specific
60 tooth carbide blades -- except the price sticker, $90 !! It
was given to me.

I just bought an Avanti two-pack of 10" 60 tooth from HD, for
$29. Just wondering what diffs between the two blades to
expect, if any.

Any nifty uses for worn-out RAS blades? Frisbee?? Just
scrap'em?
--
EA

"PrecisionmachinisT" wrote in message
news:JZydnc3OoOfXCQ_QnZ2dnUVZ_vSdnZ2d@scnresearch. com...

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

"Existential Angst" wrote in message
...
Awl --

I do some alum cutting on my RAS, using mostly 60 tooth 10" blades --
everything from 1/8" material, to 3" material, with 1" flat and round
bar being typical.

How significant is chipped/missing carbide on a tooth or two
(non-adjacent)?

If a chipped/missing tooth is ok for 60 tooth, how coarse can the blade
get before missing/chipped carbide is not OK?

If dicey on alum, can these chipped blades be used safely on wood?

I've used all kinds of chipped-tooth blades on wood for decades. I just
save them for rough work. Just don't feed them too fast, and you probably
won't notice the difference. I don't think that safety is much of an
issue, but I'm careful not to stand in line with any brazed-tooth blade.
The little suckers come off the wheel like bullets.

However, that's on a table saw. I don't use a radial-arm; they're a
little rough for me, even with a perfect blade.


I will switch to new or unchipped blades awaiting Group Advice.

Also, I have a 10" 80 tooth Morse Metal Devil specifically for alum,
which doesn't look much different than other non-specific 60 tooth
carbide blades -- except the price sticker, $90 !! It was given to me.

I just bought an Avanti two-pack of 10" 60 tooth from HD, for $29. Just
wondering what diffs between the two blades to expect, if any.

Any nifty uses for worn-out RAS blades? Frisbee?? Just scrap'em?

How worn out? I have an old diamond wheel from a surface grinder I mount
on a lathe arbor, and sharpen the teeth with a fixture I made that mounts
on my milling attachment. I've used some of the same blades for 35 years.

--
Cheap Ed Huntress


I use the 4th axis index on the fadal and a cup wheel to sharpen circular
saw blades, count the number of teeth and divide 360 by the number of
teeth to get your per-tooth angle increment takes about 6 lines of code to
run an endless loop that takes off a thou at a time

Yeah, I thought about that, but don't you worry about gritty coolant?

Also, not feasible for missing brazed carbide off a blade.

Heh, this is an inneresting Q: Can a DIY sucka re-braze carbide to a
blade??
--
EA



--

"Gerald Miller" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 29 Mar 2011 21:46:36 -0700, Bob La Londe
wrote:

On 3/29/2011 5:06 PM, Existential Angst wrote:
Awl --


Any nifty uses for worn-out RAS blades? Frisbee?? Just scrap'em?




I was wondering if the blades would make decent knife steel, but other
than that I can't think of a use for them.
Has anyone tried cutting them up to use an individual tooth as a
parting tool?

Dat is a very neat idea!!
--
EA



Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

"pyotr filipivich" wrote in message
...
"Existential Angst" on Tue, 29 Mar 2011
20:06:23 -0400 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
Awl --

I do some alum cutting on my RAS, using mostly 60 tooth 10" blades --
everything from 1/8" material, to 3" material, with 1" flat and round bar
being typical.

How significant is chipped/missing carbide on a tooth or two
(non-adjacent)?

If a chipped/missing tooth is ok for 60 tooth, how coarse can the blade
get
before missing/chipped carbide is not OK?

Depends on how much of a cut/chip load you're taking. As well as
how smooth a finish you care about.

If dicey on alum, can these chipped blades be used safely on wood?

"Depends on how much of a cut/chipload and the nature of the
finish you want."

I will switch to new or unchipped blades awaiting Group Advice.

Also, I have a 10" 80 tooth Morse Metal Devil specifically for alum, which
doesn't look much different than other non-specific 60 tooth carbide
blades -- except the price sticker, $90 !! It was given to me.

I just bought an Avanti two-pack of 10" 60 tooth from HD, for $29. Just
wondering what diffs between the two blades to expect, if any.

In the two pack?

No, between a blade advertised as specifically for alum (and for $90), vs.
low-end generic blades.
I would expect that long term in a more expensive blade the carbide would be
a better quality and better-brazed and thus would have a longer service
life, but I wonder if, short-term, there would be a noticeable difference
from the higher price and the "aluminum specificity".


Any nifty uses for worn-out RAS blades? Frisbee?? Just scrap'em?

Coasters?

Indeed!
--
EA


--
pyotr filipivich
We will drink no whiskey before its nine.
It's eight fifty eight. Close enough!

"DanG" wrote in message
...
The missing/chipped teeth mean you have hit a nail or something really
hard. Aluminum did NOT do it. If these are quality blades, take them to
a commercial saw blade sharpening service. They will replace missing teeth
and advise on whether the blade is worth messing with.

Proly not for a $15 blade. There is a place that resharpens non-carbide
cold-saw blades, and that charge is minimum $30.

Can a DIYer braze carbide? How is it done commercially? Plain ole brazing
rod?


I suspect the Morse blade you mention is made for cutting steel, not
aluminum (though, it will work). Here is some information:
http://www.mkmorse.com/products/index.aspx?product=75

Well, it says "aluminum blade" right on the blade/package.
In fact, on your link, my exact blade is second from the top in that list
you see if you scroll down a bit.

So if you take Morse at their apparent word, there are design diffs for all
those applications.


Old blades make decent knife blades or you can mount battery clock
movements on them to give as gifts.

Neat ideas. I think a really beat up saw blade would make a great clock
face!!
Heh, mebbe with some dried blood on it?? LOL!!!

--
EA


Maybe you know someone who
likes to paint sawblades. It hurts my soul to see a fine old London 12 or
similar with its cutesy snow scene.

--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
DanG
Keep the whole world singing . . .


"Existential Angst" wrote in message
...
Awl --

I do some alum cutting on my RAS, using mostly 60 tooth 10" blades --
everything from 1/8" material, to 3" material, with 1" flat and round bar
being typical.

How significant is chipped/missing carbide on a tooth or two
(non-adjacent)?

If a chipped/missing tooth is ok for 60 tooth, how coarse can the blade
get before missing/chipped carbide is not OK?

If dicey on alum, can these chipped blades be used safely on wood?

I will switch to new or unchipped blades awaiting Group Advice.

Also, I have a 10" 80 tooth Morse Metal Devil specifically for alum,
which doesn't look much different than other non-specific 60 tooth
carbide blades -- except the price sticker, $90 !! It was given to me.

I just bought an Avanti two-pack of 10" 60 tooth from HD, for $29. Just
wondering what diffs between the two blades to expect, if any.

Any nifty uses for worn-out RAS blades? Frisbee?? Just scrap'em?
--
EA

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
On 3/29/2011 5:06 PM, Existential Angst wrote:
Awl --

I do some alum cutting on my RAS, using mostly 60 tooth 10" blades --
everything from 1/8" material, to 3" material, with 1" flat and round bar
being typical.

How significant is chipped/missing carbide on a tooth or two
(non-adjacent)?

If a chipped/missing tooth is ok for 60 tooth, how coarse can the blade
get
before missing/chipped carbide is not OK?

If dicey on alum, can these chipped blades be used safely on wood?

I will switch to new or unchipped blades awaiting Group Advice.

Also, I have a 10" 80 tooth Morse Metal Devil specifically for alum,
which
doesn't look much different than other non-specific 60 tooth carbide
blades -- except the price sticker, $90 !! It was given to me.

I just bought an Avanti two-pack of 10" 60 tooth from HD, for $29. Just
wondering what diffs between the two blades to expect, if any.

Any nifty uses for worn-out RAS blades? Frisbee?? Just scrap'em?



I use a 10" blade table saw for aluminum all the time. I just replaced a
60T carbide blade that I have been using for about 3 years for mixed wood
and aluminum work. It had started throwing the work and doing weird
things. It was missing a couple teeth for quite some time, but when I
broke out the magnifying glass the rest of the teeth were looking pretty
bad. I don't think a missing tooth or two is all that bad, but when it
just starts to get worn out it gets dangerous. It will throw a work piece
back at you with enough force to cut you up pretty bad.

That's exactly what I've been noticing, and attributed it to a given
missing/chipped tooth.
I think a missing/chipped tooth will make itself felt more on thin material.

Since I cut on an RAS, throwing the work at me is impossible for regular
cross-cutting on the table, because if you cut in climb, it will grab the
work from you/away from you, and if you cut conventional (pushing the
carriage away from you), it will throw the work away from you. In climb
(pulling the carriage to you), the blade will ride up/stall on the work if
it grabs, and conventionally, it can kick the work up -- but still away from
you.

The only time an RAS will throw the work back you is if you rotate the
carriage 90 deg for ripping.

I almost always cut substantial material in a conventional cut, cuz the
control is much better, I can just "lean" on the carriage.
BUT, occasionally lifted/thrown material is a little unnerving, and I'm
thinking of making some hold-down guides that run front-to-back, to keep
this from happening.




I was wondering if the blades would make decent knife steel, but other
than that I can't think of a use for them.

Proly perty decent, but I wonder how many abrasive saw blades would be
required?

--
EA

"PrecisionmachinisT" wrote in message
news:JZydnc3OoOfXCQ_QnZ2dnUVZ_vSdnZ2d@scnresearch. com...

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

"Existential Angst" wrote in message
...
Awl --

I do some alum cutting on my RAS, using mostly 60 tooth 10" blades --
everything from 1/8" material, to 3" material, with 1" flat and round
bar being typical.

How significant is chipped/missing carbide on a tooth or two
(non-adjacent)?

If a chipped/missing tooth is ok for 60 tooth, how coarse can the blade
get before missing/chipped carbide is not OK?

If dicey on alum, can these chipped blades be used safely on wood?

I've used all kinds of chipped-tooth blades on wood for decades. I just
save them for rough work. Just don't feed them too fast, and you probably
won't notice the difference. I don't think that safety is much of an
issue, but I'm careful not to stand in line with any brazed-tooth blade.
The little suckers come off the wheel like bullets.

However, that's on a table saw. I don't use a radial-arm; they're a
little rough for me, even with a perfect blade.


I will switch to new or unchipped blades awaiting Group Advice.

Also, I have a 10" 80 tooth Morse Metal Devil specifically for alum,
which doesn't look much different than other non-specific 60 tooth
carbide blades -- except the price sticker, $90 !! It was given to me.

I just bought an Avanti two-pack of 10" 60 tooth from HD, for $29. Just
wondering what diffs between the two blades to expect, if any.

Any nifty uses for worn-out RAS blades? Frisbee?? Just scrap'em?

How worn out? I have an old diamond wheel from a surface grinder I mount
on a lathe arbor, and sharpen the teeth with a fixture I made that mounts
on my milling attachment. I've used some of the same blades for 35 years.

--
Cheap Ed Huntress


I use the 4th axis index on the fadal and a cup wheel to sharpen circular
saw blades, count the number of teeth and divide 360 by the number of
teeth to get your per-tooth angle increment takes about 6 lines of code to
run an endless loop that takes off a thou at a time

I've resharpened blades on a reg bench grinder -- or a dremel/die grinder --
just taking some material off the top for cutting clearance, sharp edge,
seems to work pretty good, goes pretty fast. Not precision, of course, but
not much is being taken off.

From one of the other replies, and from my own experience with end mills, a
dull edge/tooth can be deceptively subtle, in that it can feel sharp but not
actually BE sharp.
--
EA



--

On Mar 29, 8:06*pm, "Existential Angst" wrote:

Any nifty uses for worn-out RAS blades? *Frisbee?? *Just scrap'em?

I did, once, try one as a frisbee. It was pretty, cool - flew more
than 100 feet across the warehouse and stuck into a wood beam. It
actually appeared to have some lift. The bitch was that I had to drag
out a ladder to retrieve the blade - didn't want it to fall on
anyone's head.

Existential Angst wrote:

(...)

Heh, this is an inneresting Q: Can a DIY sucka re-braze carbide to a
blade??

Why not? This guy looks like he's done it once or twice.

Notice how he stripped the teeth off the entire blade instead of
trying to replace just one or two teeth. I bet there is a good
reason for that.

(Skip to 1:03)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nmlj37zOvQw

Check out his rotating table! Cool!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7UO2fcRkxB4


Nit mode: ON

The way I misunderstand flux is that it floats oxides away from the
joint root and keeps them from re-forming in that important area.

(Flux is magical stuff that can result in gorgeous - looking joints.

It hasn't anything directly to do with controlling the temperature
rise.)

At 6:33, he should have re-fluxed the joint. See how much more
nicely the next few joints look?

Nit mode: OFF

He is *right* about the 'white' flux. It is just unusable
because it oxidizes very quickly.

--Winston

DanG wrote:
...
Old blades make decent knife blades ...

You you mean carbide-tipped blades or the plain blades? I always
assumed that there was nothing special about the "carrier" steel in a
carbide tipped because all it has to do is hold the carbide. I'd be
interested in knowing if that's not true.

Bob

On Wed, 30 Mar 2011 07:20:39 -0700, Winston
wrote:

Existential Angst wrote:

(...)

Heh, this is an inneresting Q: Can a DIY sucka re-braze carbide to a
blade??

Why not? This guy looks like he's done it once or twice.

Notice how he stripped the teeth off the entire blade instead of
trying to replace just one or two teeth. I bet there is a good
reason for that.

If one joint failed, the rest may be ready.


(Skip to 1:03)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nmlj37zOvQw

Check out his rotating table! Cool!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7UO2fcRkxB4


Nit mode: ON

My nit is that they never showed any additional silver solder being
applied. Is there enough after removing the teeth? I'd be wary of
that.


The way I misunderstand flux is that it floats oxides away from the
joint root and keeps them from re-forming in that important area.

Works for me.


(Flux is magical stuff that can result in gorgeous - looking joints.

Ayup.


It hasn't anything directly to do with controlling the temperature
rise.)

I'm with you.


At 6:33, he should have re-fluxed the joint. See how much more
nicely the next few joints look?

Agreed.


Nit mode: OFF

He is *right* about the 'white' flux. It is just unusable
because it oxidizes very quickly.

It's prolly only unusable for all of us, the amateurs.

--
The general effect was exactly like a microscopic view of a
small detachment of black beetles, in search of a dead rat.
-- John Ruskin

On Mar 30, 12:57*pm, Larry Jaques
wrote:


He is *right* about the 'white' flux. *It is just unusable
because it oxidizes very quickly.



I suspect that not all white flux is the same. I just used some
white flux today to apply some silver solder to a stainless tank.
Worked just fine. Can not tell you anything about the flux as it is
in a glass jar with a unreadable label. I have probably had it for
thirty years.

Dan

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 30 Mar 2011 07:20:39 -0700,
wrote:

Existential Angst wrote:

(...)

Heh, this is an inneresting Q: Can a DIY sucka re-braze carbide to a
blade??

Why not? This guy looks like he's done it once or twice.

Notice how he stripped the teeth off the entire blade instead of
trying to replace just one or two teeth. I bet there is a good
reason for that.

If one joint failed, the rest may be ready.

Also, the replacement teeth are guaranteed to be differently -
shaped than the worn teeth, making sharpening a much more
time-consuming process than it needs to be.



(Skip to 1:03)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nmlj37zOvQw

Check out his rotating table! Cool!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7UO2fcRkxB4


Nit mode: ON

My nit is that they never showed any additional silver solder being
applied. Is there enough after removing the teeth? I'd be wary of
that.

He *implies* that he put fresh silver solder in the joint
between shots. (Must look up silver solder *paste*!)

(...)

He is *right* about the 'white' flux. It is just unusable
because it oxidizes very quickly.

It's prolly only unusable for all of us, the amateurs.

I dunno. Stuff turns color and starts boiling off *long*
before the joint is up to temperature.

HEIDI KLUM: Ooooo, Dash Bad!

--Winston

wrote:
On Mar 30, 12:57 pm, Larry
wrote:


He is *right* about the 'white' flux. It is just unusable
because it oxidizes very quickly.



I suspect that not all white flux is the same. I just used some
white flux today to apply some silver solder to a stainless tank.
Worked just fine. Can not tell you anything about the flux as it is
in a glass jar with a unreadable label. I have probably had it for
thirty years.

Doubtless you are right.
I was talking about the stuff in plastic jars available
in the hardware store today.

--Winston

On Wed, 30 Mar 2011 12:26:45 -0700, Winston
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 30 Mar 2011 07:20:39 -0700,
wrote:

Existential Angst wrote:

(...)

Heh, this is an inneresting Q: Can a DIY sucka re-braze carbide to a
blade??

Why not? This guy looks like he's done it once or twice.

Notice how he stripped the teeth off the entire blade instead of
trying to replace just one or two teeth. I bet there is a good
reason for that.

If one joint failed, the rest may be ready.

Also, the replacement teeth are guaranteed to be differently -
shaped than the worn teeth, making sharpening a much more
time-consuming process than it needs to be.

I suppose size/weight could have some implications here, too. Put a
single different sized tooth on and throw the blade out of dynamic
balance.


My nit is that they never showed any additional silver solder being
applied. Is there enough after removing the teeth? I'd be wary of
that.

He *implies* that he put fresh silver solder in the joint
between shots. (Must look up silver solder *paste*!)

Powdered silver solder in white flux, just what we need.

(...)

He is *right* about the 'white' flux. It is just unusable
because it oxidizes very quickly.

It's prolly only unusable for all of us, the amateurs.

I dunno. Stuff turns color and starts boiling off *long*
before the joint is up to temperature.

HEIDI KLUM: Ooooo, Dash Bad!

There's a goddess if there ever was one. Too bad her boobs weren't a
bit smaller, she was unmarried, and she liked older guys. She'd be
perfect for me. (POP! and then I woke up.)

--
The general effect was exactly like a microscopic view of a
small detachment of black beetles, in search of a dead rat.
-- John Ruskin

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 30 Mar 2011 12:26:45 -0700,
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:

(...)

If one joint failed, the rest may be ready.

Also, the replacement teeth are guaranteed to be differently -
shaped than the worn teeth, making sharpening a much more
time-consuming process than it needs to be.

I suppose size/weight could have some implications here, too. Put a
single different sized tooth on and throw the blade out of dynamic
balance.

I wouldn't be too concerned there.

On my dry saw, I've discovered that I'd been cutting steel using
a blade missing a couple teeth. Performance was down.
but it still worked without discernible vibration.

My nit is that they never showed any additional silver solder being
applied. Is there enough after removing the teeth? I'd be wary of
that.

He *implies* that he put fresh silver solder in the joint
between shots. (Must look up silver solder *paste*!)

Powdered silver solder in white flux, just what we need.

Substitute black flux and you've got a deal!

(What?)

FIFTY BUCKS AN OUNCE?! Nevermind.


(...)

He is *right* about the 'white' flux. It is just unusable
because it oxidizes very quickly.

It's prolly only unusable for all of us, the amateurs.

I dunno. Stuff turns color and starts boiling off *long*
before the joint is up to temperature.

HEIDI KLUM: Ooooo, Dash Bad!

There's a goddess if there ever was one. Too bad her boobs weren't a
bit smaller, she was unmarried, and she liked older guys. She'd be
perfect for me. (POP! and then I woke up.)

Heh!

--Winston

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 30 Mar 2011 07:20:39 -0700,
wrote:

Existential Angst wrote:

(...)

Heh, this is an inneresting Q: Can a DIY sucka re-braze carbide to a
blade??

Why not? This guy looks like he's done it once or twice.

Notice how he stripped the teeth off the entire blade instead of
trying to replace just one or two teeth. I bet there is a good
reason for that.

If one joint failed, the rest may be ready.


(Skip to 1:03)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nmlj37zOvQw

Check out his rotating table! Cool!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7UO2fcRkxB4


Nit mode: ON

My nit is that they never showed any additional silver solder being
applied. Is there enough after removing the teeth? I'd be wary of
that.

If you look real close you can see a little square flat piece of silver
solder which is called a saw shim. A company next door to me makes them.



John




The way I misunderstand flux is that it floats oxides away from the
joint root and keeps them from re-forming in that important area.

Works for me.


(Flux is magical stuff that can result in gorgeous - looking joints.

Ayup.


It hasn't anything directly to do with controlling the temperature
rise.)

I'm with you.


At 6:33, he should have re-fluxed the joint. See how much more
nicely the next few joints look?

Agreed.


Nit mode: OFF

He is *right* about the 'white' flux. It is just unusable
because it oxidizes very quickly.

It's prolly only unusable for all of us, the amateurs.

--
The general effect was exactly like a microscopic view of a
small detachment of black beetles, in search of a dead rat.
-- John Ruskin

Flux reduces oxides into metal by stealing the oxygen. It floats
above the metal and can be broken off, melted (solvent) off.

I've been soldering since the early 50's. Not much bigger than the iron.

I use fluxes in my furnace. Different flux for each metal type.

Martin

On 3/30/2011 9:20 AM, Winston wrote:
Existential Angst wrote:

(...)

Heh, this is an inneresting Q: Can a DIY sucka re-braze carbide to a
blade??

Why not? This guy looks like he's done it once or twice.

Notice how he stripped the teeth off the entire blade instead of
trying to replace just one or two teeth. I bet there is a good
reason for that.

(Skip to 1:03)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nmlj37zOvQw

Check out his rotating table! Cool!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7UO2fcRkxB4


Nit mode: ON

The way I misunderstand flux is that it floats oxides away from the
joint root and keeps them from re-forming in that important area.

(Flux is magical stuff that can result in gorgeous - looking joints.

It hasn't anything directly to do with controlling the temperature
rise.)

At 6:33, he should have re-fluxed the joint. See how much more
nicely the next few joints look?

Nit mode: OFF

He is *right* about the 'white' flux. It is just unusable
because it oxidizes very quickly.

--Winston

On Wed, 30 Mar 2011 15:39:32 -0700, Winston
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 30 Mar 2011 12:26:45 -0700,
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:

(...)

If one joint failed, the rest may be ready.

Also, the replacement teeth are guaranteed to be differently -
shaped than the worn teeth, making sharpening a much more
time-consuming process than it needs to be.

I suppose size/weight could have some implications here, too. Put a
single different sized tooth on and throw the blade out of dynamic
balance.

I wouldn't be too concerned there.

On my dry saw, I've discovered that I'd been cutting steel using
a blade missing a couple teeth. Performance was down.
but it still worked without discernible vibration.

Doesn't your dry saw run at a considerably slower RPM?


My nit is that they never showed any additional silver solder being
applied. Is there enough after removing the teeth? I'd be wary of
that.

He *implies* that he put fresh silver solder in the joint
between shots. (Must look up silver solder *paste*!)

Powdered silver solder in white flux, just what we need.

Substitute black flux and you've got a deal!

(What?)

FIFTY BUCKS AN OUNCE?! Nevermind.

Fifty bucks an ouch?

--
The general effect was exactly like a microscopic view of a
small detachment of black beetles, in search of a dead rat.
-- John Ruskin

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 30 Mar 2011 15:39:32 -0700,
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 30 Mar 2011 12:26:45 -0700,
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:

(...)

If one joint failed, the rest may be ready.

Also, the replacement teeth are guaranteed to be differently -
shaped than the worn teeth, making sharpening a much more
time-consuming process than it needs to be.

I suppose size/weight could have some implications here, too. Put a
single different sized tooth on and throw the blade out of dynamic
balance.

I wouldn't be too concerned there.

On my dry saw, I've discovered that I'd been cutting steel using
a blade missing a couple teeth. Performance was down.
but it still worked without discernible vibration.

Doesn't your dry saw run at a considerably slower RPM?

About 1300 RPM no load vs 3200 RPM for a typical miter saw.

My nit is that they never showed any additional silver solder being
applied. Is there enough after removing the teeth? I'd be wary of
that.

He *implies* that he put fresh silver solder in the joint
between shots. (Must look up silver solder *paste*!)

Powdered silver solder in white flux, just what we need.

Substitute black flux and you've got a deal!

(What?)

How cool would that be? Pre-fluxed silver solder paste!
That was before I discovered it costs 50 smackers for
an ounce. Oh Well!


FIFTY BUCKS AN OUNCE?! Nevermind.

Fifty bucks an ouch?

Yup!

--Winston

On Mar 30, 12:36*am, Gerald Miller wrote:
On Tue, 29 Mar 2011 21:46:36 -0700, Bob La Londe

wrote:
On 3/29/2011 5:06 PM, Existential Angst wrote:
Awl --

Any nifty uses for worn-out RAS blades? *Frisbee?? *Just scrap'em?

I was wondering if the blades would make decent knife steel, but other
than that I can't think of a use for them.

Has anyone tried cutting them up to use an individual tooth as a
parting tool?
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

I've read of it being done, on a worn blade you'd probably want to
reshape and resharpen with a diamond wheel or at a minimum a honing
plate. I'd also worry about the grade of carbide not being that well
suited to metal cutting, but for a few slots it probably wouldn't
matter.

In days of old when carbide blades were more expensive than shop time,
guys would braze in new carbide inserts and re-sharpen to suit. I've
seen articles in old magazines. There might be some residual scrap
value in the inserts, you'd have to have a bunch, though.

The older pre-carbide saw bades made fairly decent knives if you could
work out a heat treat regimen, don't know about carbide insert
carriers since the steel is selected for other things than cutting
properties.

Stan

On Mar 31, 12:01*am, Winston wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 30 Mar 2011 15:39:32 -0700,
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 30 Mar 2011 12:26:45 -0700,
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:

(...)

If one joint failed, the rest may be ready.

Also, the replacement teeth are guaranteed to be differently -
shaped than the worn teeth, making sharpening a much more
time-consuming process than it needs to be.

I suppose size/weight could have some implications here, too. Put a
single different sized tooth on and throw the blade out of dynamic
balance.

I wouldn't be too concerned there.

On my dry saw, I've discovered that I'd been cutting steel using
a blade missing a couple teeth. *Performance was down.
but it still worked without discernible vibration.

Doesn't your dry saw run at a considerably slower RPM?

About 1300 RPM no load vs 3200 RPM for a typical miter saw.

My nit is that they never showed any additional silver solder being
applied. *Is there enough after removing the teeth? *I'd be wary of
that.

He *implies* that he put fresh silver solder in the joint
between shots. *(Must look up silver solder *paste*!)

Powdered silver solder in white flux, just what we need. *

Substitute black flux and you've got a deal!

(What?)

How cool would that be? *Pre-fluxed silver solder paste!
That was before I discovered it costs 50 smackers for
an ounce. *Oh Well!



FIFTY BUCKS AN OUNCE?! *Nevermind.

Fifty bucks an ouch?

Yup!

--Winston- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You'd get a lot more joints out of that ounce of flux and filler than
out of a similar quantity of filler rod and a jar of flux by the time
you clean up the joint. The stuff is really meant for furnace
brazing, though, where you have your parts rolling through on a belt
instead of guy with a torch doing onesies. I've used it for gun work
for putting sights and ramps on, good stuff. Just a mite spendy in
today's metal market.

Stab

wrote:

(...)

You'd get a lot more joints out of that ounce of flux and filler than
out of a similar quantity of filler rod and a jar of flux by the time
you clean up the joint. The stuff is really meant for furnace
brazing, though, where you have your parts rolling through on a belt
instead of guy with a torch doing onesies. I've used it for gun work
for putting sights and ramps on, good stuff. Just a mite spendy in
today's metal market.


In just a few minutes of searching, I found a blade that will
do the job for about 50% more than the Irwin blades HF
used to sell:
http://www.toolbarn.com/bosch-cb1260.html

I guess I won't get into the saw blade repair business just yet.



--Winston

On Thu, 31 Mar 2011 07:13:41 -0700, Winston
wrote:

wrote:

(...)

You'd get a lot more joints out of that ounce of flux and filler than
out of a similar quantity of filler rod and a jar of flux by the time
you clean up the joint. The stuff is really meant for furnace
brazing, though, where you have your parts rolling through on a belt
instead of guy with a torch doing onesies. I've used it for gun work
for putting sights and ramps on, good stuff. Just a mite spendy in
today's metal market.


In just a few minutes of searching, I found a blade that will
do the job for about 50% more than the Irwin blades HF
used to sell:
http://www.toolbarn.com/bosch-cb1260.html

I guess I won't get into the saw blade repair business just yet.



Grok that. I'll be needing a new blade for my HF 12" CMS this year,
so I'll likely get one of those. It hurts to pay 1/3 the price of the
tool for a replacement blade, tho.


From a bumper sticker seen in this morning's email:

I just can't get started until
I've hade a piping hot pot
of coffee in the morning.

Oh, I've tried other enemas...

---
and

Live each day like it's your last. One day you'll get it right.




--
You and I have a rendezvous with destiny. We will
preserve for our children this, the last best hope
of man on Earth, or we will sentence them to take
the last step into a thousand years of darkness.?
-- Ronald Reagan

On Thu, 31 Mar 2011 07:13:41 -0700, Winston
wrote:

wrote:

(...)

You'd get a lot more joints out of that ounce of flux and filler than
out of a similar quantity of filler rod and a jar of flux by the time
you clean up the joint. The stuff is really meant for furnace
brazing, though, where you have your parts rolling through on a belt
instead of guy with a torch doing onesies. I've used it for gun work
for putting sights and ramps on, good stuff. Just a mite spendy in
today's metal market.


In just a few minutes of searching, I found a blade that will
do the job for about 50% more than the Irwin blades HF
used to sell:
http://www.toolbarn.com/bosch-cb1260.html

Another one in the running, $35.18 UPS. (prolly 3+ weeks)
http://goo.gl/ClUPr Makita 12" 40T thin kerf.

Does anyone here have experience with www.eReplacementParts.com ?

--
You and I have a rendezvous with destiny. We will
preserve for our children this, the last best hope
of man on Earth, or we will sentence them to take
the last step into a thousand years of darkness.?
-- Ronald Reagan

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 31 Mar 2011 07:13:41 -0700,
wrote:

wrote:

(...)

You'd get a lot more joints out of that ounce of flux and filler than
out of a similar quantity of filler rod and a jar of flux by the time
you clean up the joint. The stuff is really meant for furnace
brazing, though, where you have your parts rolling through on a belt
instead of guy with a torch doing onesies. I've used it for gun work
for putting sights and ramps on, good stuff. Just a mite spendy in
today's metal market.


In just a few minutes of searching, I found a blade that will
do the job for about 50% more than the Irwin blades HF
used to sell:
http://www.toolbarn.com/bosch-cb1260.html

I guess I won't get into the saw blade repair business just yet.



Grok that. I'll be needing a new blade for my HF 12" CMS this year,
so I'll likely get one of those. It hurts to pay 1/3 the price of the
tool for a replacement blade, tho.

I looked up the absolute proper blade.

Stand away from sharp objects before you open the link
for the price.

Smelling salts at the ready!

http://www.toolbarn.com/makita-a-91039.html


(...)

--Winston

Larry Jaques wrote:

(...)

Another one in the running, $35.18 UPS. (prolly 3+ weeks)
http://goo.gl/ClUPr Makita 12" 40T thin kerf.

Prolly work just fine.

Does anyone here have experience with www.eReplacementParts.com ?

Not I.

--Winston

On Thu, 31 Mar 2011 11:15:48 -0700, Winston
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 31 Mar 2011 07:13:41 -0700,
wrote:

wrote:

(...)

You'd get a lot more joints out of that ounce of flux and filler than
out of a similar quantity of filler rod and a jar of flux by the time
you clean up the joint. The stuff is really meant for furnace
brazing, though, where you have your parts rolling through on a belt
instead of guy with a torch doing onesies. I've used it for gun work
for putting sights and ramps on, good stuff. Just a mite spendy in
today's metal market.


In just a few minutes of searching, I found a blade that will
do the job for about 50% more than the Irwin blades HF
used to sell:
http://www.toolbarn.com/bosch-cb1260.html

I guess I won't get into the saw blade repair business just yet.



Grok that. I'll be needing a new blade for my HF 12" CMS this year,
so I'll likely get one of those. It hurts to pay 1/3 the price of the
tool for a replacement blade, tho.

I looked up the absolute proper blade.

Stand away from sharp objects before you open the link
for the price.

Smelling salts at the ready!

http://www.toolbarn.com/makita-a-91039.html

Hey, that thing cost FOUR TIMES the amount I paid for my portable
bandsaw. I wonder how long they last. Is that horrible price a good
value?

--
You and I have a rendezvous with destiny. We will
preserve for our children this, the last best hope
of man on Earth, or we will sentence them to take
the last step into a thousand years of darkness.?
-- Ronald Reagan

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 31 Mar 2011 11:15:48 -0700,
wrote:

(...)

http://www.toolbarn.com/makita-a-91039.html

Hey, that thing cost FOUR TIMES the amount I paid for my portable
bandsaw. I wonder how long they last. Is that horrible price a good
value?

The old $130 blades did last somewhat longer than the
$30. blades. Somewhat.

I can't believe that the high priced blade lasts ~8 x longer
than the el cheapo deluxe version however.

I found that 60 t was about right for steel; 100 t was
actually too many. The blade would skate over the metal
without cutting nearly as well as the 60 t jobbies.

Pity Makita obsoleted this design without replacing it.
I think they were very disappointed that people didn't
feel compelled to buy the high priced blades from them.

I *really* like the cutting speed and the dead-nuts
reliable angle settings on this saw. Good Tool!

--Winston

On Thu, 31 Mar 2011 20:56:24 -0700, Winston
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 31 Mar 2011 11:15:48 -0700,
wrote:

(...)

http://www.toolbarn.com/makita-a-91039.html

Hey, that thing cost FOUR TIMES the amount I paid for my portable
bandsaw. I wonder how long they last. Is that horrible price a good
value?

The old $130 blades did last somewhat longer than the
$30. blades. Somewhat.

Not a good value, eh?


I can't believe that the high priced blade lasts ~8 x longer
than the el cheapo deluxe version however.

And that's key to its worth. I'd want to talk in depth to an owner of
one before buying it.


I found that 60 t was about right for steel; 100 t was
actually too many. The blade would skate over the metal
without cutting nearly as well as the 60 t jobbies.

I feel the same about the 100T plywood blades in wood. I get better
cuts with 24T carbide construction blades like the B&D Piranha, at
1/8th the cost.

Dina's (my old table saur) 40T carbide from HF cuts aluminum like
butter.


Pity Makita obsoleted this design without replacing it.
I think they were very disappointed that people didn't
feel compelled to buy the high priced blades from them.

I *really* like the cutting speed and the dead-nuts
reliable angle settings on this saw. Good Tool!

Cold saw or dry saw? I'd never heard "dry" before.
They're sure quicker and less messy than cutoff saws.


--
The secret of happiness is to make others believe they are the cause of it.
-- Al Batt

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 31 Mar 2011 20:56:24 -0700,
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 31 Mar 2011 11:15:48 -0700,
wrote:

(...)

http://www.toolbarn.com/makita-a-91039.html

Hey, that thing cost FOUR TIMES the amount I paid for my portable
bandsaw. I wonder how long they last. Is that horrible price a good
value?

The old $130 blades did last somewhat longer than the
$30. blades. Somewhat.

Not a good value, eh?
I don't think so.

(...)

Dina's (my old table saur) 40T carbide from HF cuts aluminum like
butter.

Yup! Cut some 1" aluminum sheet with my worm drive saw.
Worked a treat!

Pity Makita obsoleted this design without replacing it.
I think they were very disappointed that people didn't
feel compelled to buy the high priced blades from them.

I *really* like the cutting speed and the dead-nuts
reliable angle settings on this saw. Good Tool!

Cold saw or dry saw? I'd never heard "dry" before.
They're sure quicker and less messy than cutoff saws.

That is the truth. No smoke or sparks!

"Dry saw". Makita LC1230.

I suspect the name comes from the 'shattery' nature of
carbide when moistened at temperature. (Not talking
about continuous flood coolant here.)

(Corrections gratefully accepted)

http://www.toolup.com/makita_lc1230_...w-dry-cut.aspx

--Winston

On Thu, 31 Mar 2011 23:02:47 -0700, Winston
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 31 Mar 2011 20:56:24 -0700,
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 31 Mar 2011 11:15:48 -0700,
wrote:

(...)

http://www.toolbarn.com/makita-a-91039.html

Hey, that thing cost FOUR TIMES the amount I paid for my portable
bandsaw. I wonder how long they last. Is that horrible price a good
value?

The old $130 blades did last somewhat longer than the
$30. blades. Somewhat.

Not a good value, eh?
I don't think so.

(...)

Dina's (my old table saur) 40T carbide from HF cuts aluminum like
butter.

Yup! Cut some 1" aluminum sheet with my worm drive saw.
Worked a treat!

Pity Makita obsoleted this design without replacing it.
I think they were very disappointed that people didn't
feel compelled to buy the high priced blades from them.

I *really* like the cutting speed and the dead-nuts
reliable angle settings on this saw. Good Tool!

Cold saw or dry saw? I'd never heard "dry" before.
They're sure quicker and less messy than cutoff saws.

That is the truth. No smoke or sparks!

"Dry saw". Makita LC1230.

I suspect the name comes from the 'shattery' nature of
carbide when moistened at temperature. (Not talking
about continuous flood coolant here.)

The thermal shock? Thees eez a problem.


(Corrections gratefully accepted)

See below. -


http://www.toolup.com/makita_lc1230_...w-dry-cut.aspx

-Why would you cut light pipe 4 times? Nice $7.43 price reduction.-


I guess cutoff saws of all types look pretty much the same. She's
prolly beefier in the base than an abrasive. Love that Makita blue,
too. I'll bet she works slicker'n snot.

--
The secret of happiness is to make others believe they are the cause of it.
-- Al Batt

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 31 Mar 2011 23:02:47 -0700,
wrote:

(...)

I suspect the name comes from the 'shattery' nature of
carbide when moistened at temperature. (Not talking
about continuous flood coolant here.)

The thermal shock? Thees eez a problem.

Nup. Just progress with the cut, bone dry.
Let the tool put the heat into the chips and
let the saw tell you how much pressure is right.

Wear adequate safety gear and keep body parts
out of the path of hot chips occasionally ejected
at odd angles. AMHIKT.

(Corrections gratefully accepted)

See below. -


http://www.toolup.com/makita_lc1230_...w-dry-cut.aspx

-Why would you cut light pipe 4 times?

Who does English properly? Not me.

I guess cutoff saws of all types look pretty much the same. She's
prolly beefier in the base than an abrasive. Love that Makita blue,
too. I'll bet she works slicker'n snot.

Quick and accurate too.

I replaced my little metal - cutting band saw with the dry
saw and never looked back. You want a square cut that
does not wander off and miters that require no 'adjustment'
before welding? Dry saw. The thing is miraculous.

--Winston

On Fri, 01 Apr 2011 07:05:01 -0700, Winston
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 31 Mar 2011 23:02:47 -0700,
wrote:

(...)

I suspect the name comes from the 'shattery' nature of
carbide when moistened at temperature. (Not talking
about continuous flood coolant here.)

The thermal shock? Thees eez a problem.

Nup. Just progress with the cut, bone dry.
Let the tool put the heat into the chips and
let the saw tell you how much pressure is right.

We weren't talking bout the saw, just the nature of the beast who goes
by the name of "carbide."


Wear adequate safety gear and keep body parts
out of the path of hot chips occasionally ejected
at odd angles. AMHIKT.

BTDT, got the blisters, and did the screaming, frantic dances.


(Corrections gratefully accepted)

See below. -


http://www.toolup.com/makita_lc1230_...w-dry-cut.aspx

-Why would you cut light pipe 4 times?

Who does English properly? Not me.

I think they meant "cuts 4 times faster than that gritty crap."


I guess cutoff saws of all types look pretty much the same. She's
prolly beefier in the base than an abrasive. Love that Makita blue,
too. I'll bet she works slicker'n snot.

Quick and accurate too.

I replaced my little metal - cutting band saw with the dry
saw and never looked back. You want a square cut that
does not wander off and miters that require no 'adjustment'
before welding? Dry saw. The thing is miraculous.

Nice drive-by, suckah.

--
The secret of happiness is to make others believe they are the cause of it.
-- Al Batt