Awl --

I do some alum cutting on my RAS, using mostly 60 tooth 10" blades --
everything from 1/8" material, to 3" material, with 1" flat and round bar
being typical.

How significant is chipped/missing carbide on a tooth or two (non-adjacent)?

If a chipped/missing tooth is ok for 60 tooth, how coarse can the blade get
before missing/chipped carbide is not OK?

If dicey on alum, can these chipped blades be used safely on wood?

I will switch to new or unchipped blades awaiting Group Advice.

Also, I have a 10" 80 tooth Morse Metal Devil specifically for alum, which
doesn't look much different than other non-specific 60 tooth carbide
blades -- except the price sticker, $90 !! It was given to me.

I just bought an Avanti two-pack of 10" 60 tooth from HD, for $29. Just
wondering what diffs between the two blades to expect, if any.

Any nifty uses for worn-out RAS blades? Frisbee?? Just scrap'em?
--
EA

"Existential Angst" wrote in message
...
Awl --

I do some alum cutting on my RAS, using mostly 60 tooth 10" blades --
everything from 1/8" material, to 3" material, with 1" flat and round bar
being typical.

How significant is chipped/missing carbide on a tooth or two
(non-adjacent)?

If a chipped/missing tooth is ok for 60 tooth, how coarse can the blade
get before missing/chipped carbide is not OK?

If dicey on alum, can these chipped blades be used safely on wood?

I've used all kinds of chipped-tooth blades on wood for decades. I just save
them for rough work. Just don't feed them too fast, and you probably won't
notice the difference. I don't think that safety is much of an issue, but
I'm careful not to stand in line with any brazed-tooth blade. The little
suckers come off the wheel like bullets.

However, that's on a table saw. I don't use a radial-arm; they're a little
rough for me, even with a perfect blade.


I will switch to new or unchipped blades awaiting Group Advice.

Also, I have a 10" 80 tooth Morse Metal Devil specifically for alum, which
doesn't look much different than other non-specific 60 tooth carbide
blades -- except the price sticker, $90 !! It was given to me.

I just bought an Avanti two-pack of 10" 60 tooth from HD, for $29. Just
wondering what diffs between the two blades to expect, if any.

Any nifty uses for worn-out RAS blades? Frisbee?? Just scrap'em?

How worn out? I have an old diamond wheel from a surface grinder I mount on
a lathe arbor, and sharpen the teeth with a fixture I made that mounts on my
milling attachment. I've used some of the same blades for 35 years.

--
Cheap Ed Huntress

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

"Existential Angst" wrote in message
...
Awl --

I do some alum cutting on my RAS, using mostly 60 tooth 10" blades --
everything from 1/8" material, to 3" material, with 1" flat and round bar
being typical.

How significant is chipped/missing carbide on a tooth or two
(non-adjacent)?

If a chipped/missing tooth is ok for 60 tooth, how coarse can the blade
get before missing/chipped carbide is not OK?

If dicey on alum, can these chipped blades be used safely on wood?

I've used all kinds of chipped-tooth blades on wood for decades. I just
save them for rough work. Just don't feed them too fast, and you probably
won't notice the difference. I don't think that safety is much of an
issue, but I'm careful not to stand in line with any brazed-tooth blade.
The little suckers come off the wheel like bullets.

However, that's on a table saw. I don't use a radial-arm; they're a little
rough for me, even with a perfect blade.


I will switch to new or unchipped blades awaiting Group Advice.

Also, I have a 10" 80 tooth Morse Metal Devil specifically for alum,
which doesn't look much different than other non-specific 60 tooth
carbide blades -- except the price sticker, $90 !! It was given to me.

I just bought an Avanti two-pack of 10" 60 tooth from HD, for $29. Just
wondering what diffs between the two blades to expect, if any.

Any nifty uses for worn-out RAS blades? Frisbee?? Just scrap'em?

How worn out? I have an old diamond wheel from a surface grinder I mount
on a lathe arbor, and sharpen the teeth with a fixture I made that mounts
on my milling attachment. I've used some of the same blades for 35 years.

--
Cheap Ed Huntress


I use the 4th axis index on the fadal and a cup wheel to sharpen circular
saw blades, count the number of teeth and divide 360 by the number of teeth
to get your per-tooth angle increment takes about 6 lines of code to run an
endless loop that takes off a thou at a time

--

"PrecisionmachinisT" wrote in message
news:JZydnc3OoOfXCQ_QnZ2dnUVZ_vSdnZ2d@scnresearch. com...

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

"Existential Angst" wrote in message
...
Awl --

I do some alum cutting on my RAS, using mostly 60 tooth 10" blades --
everything from 1/8" material, to 3" material, with 1" flat and round
bar being typical.

How significant is chipped/missing carbide on a tooth or two
(non-adjacent)?

If a chipped/missing tooth is ok for 60 tooth, how coarse can the blade
get before missing/chipped carbide is not OK?

If dicey on alum, can these chipped blades be used safely on wood?

I've used all kinds of chipped-tooth blades on wood for decades. I just
save them for rough work. Just don't feed them too fast, and you probably
won't notice the difference. I don't think that safety is much of an
issue, but I'm careful not to stand in line with any brazed-tooth blade.
The little suckers come off the wheel like bullets.

However, that's on a table saw. I don't use a radial-arm; they're a
little rough for me, even with a perfect blade.


I will switch to new or unchipped blades awaiting Group Advice.

Also, I have a 10" 80 tooth Morse Metal Devil specifically for alum,
which doesn't look much different than other non-specific 60 tooth
carbide blades -- except the price sticker, $90 !! It was given to me.

I just bought an Avanti two-pack of 10" 60 tooth from HD, for $29. Just
wondering what diffs between the two blades to expect, if any.

Any nifty uses for worn-out RAS blades? Frisbee?? Just scrap'em?

How worn out? I have an old diamond wheel from a surface grinder I mount
on a lathe arbor, and sharpen the teeth with a fixture I made that mounts
on my milling attachment. I've used some of the same blades for 35 years.

--
Cheap Ed Huntress


I use the 4th axis index on the fadal and a cup wheel to sharpen circular
saw blades, count the number of teeth and divide 360 by the number of
teeth to get your per-tooth angle increment takes about 6 lines of code to
run an endless loop that takes off a thou at a time

Yeah, I thought about that, but don't you worry about gritty coolant?

Also, not feasible for missing brazed carbide off a blade.

Heh, this is an inneresting Q: Can a DIY sucka re-braze carbide to a
blade??
--
EA



--

Existential Angst wrote:

(...)

Heh, this is an inneresting Q: Can a DIY sucka re-braze carbide to a
blade??

Why not? This guy looks like he's done it once or twice.

Notice how he stripped the teeth off the entire blade instead of
trying to replace just one or two teeth. I bet there is a good
reason for that.

(Skip to 1:03)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nmlj37zOvQw

Check out his rotating table! Cool!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7UO2fcRkxB4


Nit mode: ON

The way I misunderstand flux is that it floats oxides away from the
joint root and keeps them from re-forming in that important area.

(Flux is magical stuff that can result in gorgeous - looking joints.

It hasn't anything directly to do with controlling the temperature
rise.)

At 6:33, he should have re-fluxed the joint. See how much more
nicely the next few joints look?

Nit mode: OFF

He is *right* about the 'white' flux. It is just unusable
because it oxidizes very quickly.

--Winston

On Wed, 30 Mar 2011 07:20:39 -0700, Winston
wrote:

Existential Angst wrote:

(...)

Heh, this is an inneresting Q: Can a DIY sucka re-braze carbide to a
blade??

Why not? This guy looks like he's done it once or twice.

Notice how he stripped the teeth off the entire blade instead of
trying to replace just one or two teeth. I bet there is a good
reason for that.

If one joint failed, the rest may be ready.


(Skip to 1:03)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nmlj37zOvQw

Check out his rotating table! Cool!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7UO2fcRkxB4


Nit mode: ON

My nit is that they never showed any additional silver solder being
applied. Is there enough after removing the teeth? I'd be wary of
that.


The way I misunderstand flux is that it floats oxides away from the
joint root and keeps them from re-forming in that important area.

Works for me.


(Flux is magical stuff that can result in gorgeous - looking joints.

Ayup.


It hasn't anything directly to do with controlling the temperature
rise.)

I'm with you.


At 6:33, he should have re-fluxed the joint. See how much more
nicely the next few joints look?

Agreed.


Nit mode: OFF

He is *right* about the 'white' flux. It is just unusable
because it oxidizes very quickly.

It's prolly only unusable for all of us, the amateurs.

--
The general effect was exactly like a microscopic view of a
small detachment of black beetles, in search of a dead rat.
-- John Ruskin

Flux reduces oxides into metal by stealing the oxygen. It floats
above the metal and can be broken off, melted (solvent) off.

I've been soldering since the early 50's. Not much bigger than the iron.

I use fluxes in my furnace. Different flux for each metal type.

Martin

On 3/30/2011 9:20 AM, Winston wrote:
Existential Angst wrote:

(...)

Heh, this is an inneresting Q: Can a DIY sucka re-braze carbide to a
blade??

Why not? This guy looks like he's done it once or twice.

Notice how he stripped the teeth off the entire blade instead of
trying to replace just one or two teeth. I bet there is a good
reason for that.

(Skip to 1:03)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nmlj37zOvQw

Check out his rotating table! Cool!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7UO2fcRkxB4


Nit mode: ON

The way I misunderstand flux is that it floats oxides away from the
joint root and keeps them from re-forming in that important area.

(Flux is magical stuff that can result in gorgeous - looking joints.

It hasn't anything directly to do with controlling the temperature
rise.)

At 6:33, he should have re-fluxed the joint. See how much more
nicely the next few joints look?

Nit mode: OFF

He is *right* about the 'white' flux. It is just unusable
because it oxidizes very quickly.

--Winston

"PrecisionmachinisT" wrote in message
news:JZydnc3OoOfXCQ_QnZ2dnUVZ_vSdnZ2d@scnresearch. com...

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

"Existential Angst" wrote in message
...
Awl --

I do some alum cutting on my RAS, using mostly 60 tooth 10" blades --
everything from 1/8" material, to 3" material, with 1" flat and round
bar being typical.

How significant is chipped/missing carbide on a tooth or two
(non-adjacent)?

If a chipped/missing tooth is ok for 60 tooth, how coarse can the blade
get before missing/chipped carbide is not OK?

If dicey on alum, can these chipped blades be used safely on wood?

I've used all kinds of chipped-tooth blades on wood for decades. I just
save them for rough work. Just don't feed them too fast, and you probably
won't notice the difference. I don't think that safety is much of an
issue, but I'm careful not to stand in line with any brazed-tooth blade.
The little suckers come off the wheel like bullets.

However, that's on a table saw. I don't use a radial-arm; they're a
little rough for me, even with a perfect blade.


I will switch to new or unchipped blades awaiting Group Advice.

Also, I have a 10" 80 tooth Morse Metal Devil specifically for alum,
which doesn't look much different than other non-specific 60 tooth
carbide blades -- except the price sticker, $90 !! It was given to me.

I just bought an Avanti two-pack of 10" 60 tooth from HD, for $29. Just
wondering what diffs between the two blades to expect, if any.

Any nifty uses for worn-out RAS blades? Frisbee?? Just scrap'em?

How worn out? I have an old diamond wheel from a surface grinder I mount
on a lathe arbor, and sharpen the teeth with a fixture I made that mounts
on my milling attachment. I've used some of the same blades for 35 years.

--
Cheap Ed Huntress


I use the 4th axis index on the fadal and a cup wheel to sharpen circular
saw blades, count the number of teeth and divide 360 by the number of
teeth to get your per-tooth angle increment takes about 6 lines of code to
run an endless loop that takes off a thou at a time

I've resharpened blades on a reg bench grinder -- or a dremel/die grinder --
just taking some material off the top for cutting clearance, sharp edge,
seems to work pretty good, goes pretty fast. Not precision, of course, but
not much is being taken off.

From one of the other replies, and from my own experience with end mills, a
dull edge/tooth can be deceptively subtle, in that it can feel sharp but not
actually BE sharp.
--
EA



--

On 3/29/2011 5:06 PM, Existential Angst wrote:
Awl --

I do some alum cutting on my RAS, using mostly 60 tooth 10" blades --
everything from 1/8" material, to 3" material, with 1" flat and round bar
being typical.

How significant is chipped/missing carbide on a tooth or two (non-adjacent)?

If a chipped/missing tooth is ok for 60 tooth, how coarse can the blade get
before missing/chipped carbide is not OK?

If dicey on alum, can these chipped blades be used safely on wood?

I will switch to new or unchipped blades awaiting Group Advice.

Also, I have a 10" 80 tooth Morse Metal Devil specifically for alum, which
doesn't look much different than other non-specific 60 tooth carbide
blades -- except the price sticker, $90 !! It was given to me.

I just bought an Avanti two-pack of 10" 60 tooth from HD, for $29. Just
wondering what diffs between the two blades to expect, if any.

Any nifty uses for worn-out RAS blades? Frisbee?? Just scrap'em?



I use a 10" blade table saw for aluminum all the time. I just replaced
a 60T carbide blade that I have been using for about 3 years for mixed
wood and aluminum work. It had started throwing the work and doing
weird things. It was missing a couple teeth for quite some time, but
when I broke out the magnifying glass the rest of the teeth were looking
pretty bad. I don't think a missing tooth or two is all that bad, but
when it just starts to get worn out it gets dangerous. It will throw a
work piece back at you with enough force to cut you up pretty bad.


I was wondering if the blades would make decent knife steel, but other
than that I can't think of a use for them.

On Tue, 29 Mar 2011 21:46:36 -0700, Bob La Londe
wrote:

On 3/29/2011 5:06 PM, Existential Angst wrote:
Awl --


Any nifty uses for worn-out RAS blades? Frisbee?? Just scrap'em?




I was wondering if the blades would make decent knife steel, but other
than that I can't think of a use for them.
Has anyone tried cutting them up to use an individual tooth as a
parting tool?
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

"Gerald Miller" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 29 Mar 2011 21:46:36 -0700, Bob La Londe
wrote:

On 3/29/2011 5:06 PM, Existential Angst wrote:
Awl --


Any nifty uses for worn-out RAS blades? Frisbee?? Just scrap'em?




I was wondering if the blades would make decent knife steel, but other
than that I can't think of a use for them.
Has anyone tried cutting them up to use an individual tooth as a
parting tool?

Dat is a very neat idea!!
--
EA



Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

On Mar 30, 12:36*am, Gerald Miller wrote:
On Tue, 29 Mar 2011 21:46:36 -0700, Bob La Londe

wrote:
On 3/29/2011 5:06 PM, Existential Angst wrote:
Awl --

Any nifty uses for worn-out RAS blades? *Frisbee?? *Just scrap'em?

I was wondering if the blades would make decent knife steel, but other
than that I can't think of a use for them.

Has anyone tried cutting them up to use an individual tooth as a
parting tool?
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

I've read of it being done, on a worn blade you'd probably want to
reshape and resharpen with a diamond wheel or at a minimum a honing
plate. I'd also worry about the grade of carbide not being that well
suited to metal cutting, but for a few slots it probably wouldn't
matter.

In days of old when carbide blades were more expensive than shop time,
guys would braze in new carbide inserts and re-sharpen to suit. I've
seen articles in old magazines. There might be some residual scrap
value in the inserts, you'd have to have a bunch, though.

The older pre-carbide saw bades made fairly decent knives if you could
work out a heat treat regimen, don't know about carbide insert
carriers since the steel is selected for other things than cutting
properties.

Stan

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
On 3/29/2011 5:06 PM, Existential Angst wrote:
Awl --

I do some alum cutting on my RAS, using mostly 60 tooth 10" blades --
everything from 1/8" material, to 3" material, with 1" flat and round bar
being typical.

How significant is chipped/missing carbide on a tooth or two
(non-adjacent)?

If a chipped/missing tooth is ok for 60 tooth, how coarse can the blade
get
before missing/chipped carbide is not OK?

If dicey on alum, can these chipped blades be used safely on wood?

I will switch to new or unchipped blades awaiting Group Advice.

Also, I have a 10" 80 tooth Morse Metal Devil specifically for alum,
which
doesn't look much different than other non-specific 60 tooth carbide
blades -- except the price sticker, $90 !! It was given to me.

I just bought an Avanti two-pack of 10" 60 tooth from HD, for $29. Just
wondering what diffs between the two blades to expect, if any.

Any nifty uses for worn-out RAS blades? Frisbee?? Just scrap'em?



I use a 10" blade table saw for aluminum all the time. I just replaced a
60T carbide blade that I have been using for about 3 years for mixed wood
and aluminum work. It had started throwing the work and doing weird
things. It was missing a couple teeth for quite some time, but when I
broke out the magnifying glass the rest of the teeth were looking pretty
bad. I don't think a missing tooth or two is all that bad, but when it
just starts to get worn out it gets dangerous. It will throw a work piece
back at you with enough force to cut you up pretty bad.

That's exactly what I've been noticing, and attributed it to a given
missing/chipped tooth.
I think a missing/chipped tooth will make itself felt more on thin material.

Since I cut on an RAS, throwing the work at me is impossible for regular
cross-cutting on the table, because if you cut in climb, it will grab the
work from you/away from you, and if you cut conventional (pushing the
carriage away from you), it will throw the work away from you. In climb
(pulling the carriage to you), the blade will ride up/stall on the work if
it grabs, and conventionally, it can kick the work up -- but still away from
you.

The only time an RAS will throw the work back you is if you rotate the
carriage 90 deg for ripping.

I almost always cut substantial material in a conventional cut, cuz the
control is much better, I can just "lean" on the carriage.
BUT, occasionally lifted/thrown material is a little unnerving, and I'm
thinking of making some hold-down guides that run front-to-back, to keep
this from happening.




I was wondering if the blades would make decent knife steel, but other
than that I can't think of a use for them.

Proly perty decent, but I wonder how many abrasive saw blades would be
required?

--
EA

"Existential Angst" on Tue, 29 Mar 2011
20:06:23 -0400 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
Awl --

I do some alum cutting on my RAS, using mostly 60 tooth 10" blades --
everything from 1/8" material, to 3" material, with 1" flat and round bar
being typical.

How significant is chipped/missing carbide on a tooth or two (non-adjacent)?

If a chipped/missing tooth is ok for 60 tooth, how coarse can the blade get
before missing/chipped carbide is not OK?

Depends on how much of a cut/chip load you're taking. As well as
how smooth a finish you care about.

If dicey on alum, can these chipped blades be used safely on wood?

"Depends on how much of a cut/chipload and the nature of the
finish you want."

I will switch to new or unchipped blades awaiting Group Advice.

Also, I have a 10" 80 tooth Morse Metal Devil specifically for alum, which
doesn't look much different than other non-specific 60 tooth carbide
blades -- except the price sticker, $90 !! It was given to me.

I just bought an Avanti two-pack of 10" 60 tooth from HD, for $29. Just
wondering what diffs between the two blades to expect, if any.

In the two pack?

Any nifty uses for worn-out RAS blades? Frisbee?? Just scrap'em?

Coasters?
--
pyotr filipivich
We will drink no whiskey before its nine.
It's eight fifty eight. Close enough!

"pyotr filipivich" wrote in message
...
"Existential Angst" on Tue, 29 Mar 2011
20:06:23 -0400 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
Awl --

I do some alum cutting on my RAS, using mostly 60 tooth 10" blades --
everything from 1/8" material, to 3" material, with 1" flat and round bar
being typical.

How significant is chipped/missing carbide on a tooth or two
(non-adjacent)?

If a chipped/missing tooth is ok for 60 tooth, how coarse can the blade
get
before missing/chipped carbide is not OK?

Depends on how much of a cut/chip load you're taking. As well as
how smooth a finish you care about.

If dicey on alum, can these chipped blades be used safely on wood?

"Depends on how much of a cut/chipload and the nature of the
finish you want."

I will switch to new or unchipped blades awaiting Group Advice.

Also, I have a 10" 80 tooth Morse Metal Devil specifically for alum, which
doesn't look much different than other non-specific 60 tooth carbide
blades -- except the price sticker, $90 !! It was given to me.

I just bought an Avanti two-pack of 10" 60 tooth from HD, for $29. Just
wondering what diffs between the two blades to expect, if any.

In the two pack?

No, between a blade advertised as specifically for alum (and for $90), vs.
low-end generic blades.
I would expect that long term in a more expensive blade the carbide would be
a better quality and better-brazed and thus would have a longer service
life, but I wonder if, short-term, there would be a noticeable difference
from the higher price and the "aluminum specificity".


Any nifty uses for worn-out RAS blades? Frisbee?? Just scrap'em?

Coasters?

Indeed!
--
EA


--
pyotr filipivich
We will drink no whiskey before its nine.
It's eight fifty eight. Close enough!

"Existential Angst" on Wed, 30 Mar 2011
08:24:04 -0400 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

"Depends on how much of a cut/chipload and the nature of the
finish you want."

I will switch to new or unchipped blades awaiting Group Advice.

Also, I have a 10" 80 tooth Morse Metal Devil specifically for alum, which
doesn't look much different than other non-specific 60 tooth carbide
blades -- except the price sticker, $90 !! It was given to me.

I just bought an Avanti two-pack of 10" 60 tooth from HD, for $29. Just
wondering what diffs between the two blades to expect, if any.

In the two pack?

No, between a blade advertised as specifically for alum (and for $90), vs.
low-end generic blades.
I would expect that long term in a more expensive blade the carbide would be
a better quality and better-brazed and thus would have a longer service
life, but I wonder if, short-term, there would be a noticeable difference
from the higher price and the "aluminum specificity".

IMHO - beats the heck out of me! I will assume that you get what
you pay for, mostly.
Again, I'll just say "Depends on if what you want can be done with
the cheap tools." I've a friend who is an Ace Anal Machinist (When I
crashed the machine I was on, it was only 35,000 to fix the spindle,
when he crashed his - 100,000 just for the spindle. Ever 'Fed ex' a
spindle from Germany? But I digress.)
I will tolerate finishes he won't, because "It is done". But he
wants everything Done Right. So he buys the quality tools. OTOH, he
knows where and how to get it for less. Lots less. He bought me a 1
inch mic with a twelve in throat - for twenty bucks, delivered!

--
pyotr filipivich
We will drink no whiskey before its nine.
It's eight fifty eight. Close enough!

"pyotr filipivich" wrote in message
...
"Existential Angst" on Wed, 30 Mar 2011
08:24:04 -0400 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

"Depends on how much of a cut/chipload and the nature of the
finish you want."

I will switch to new or unchipped blades awaiting Group Advice.

Also, I have a 10" 80 tooth Morse Metal Devil specifically for alum,
which
doesn't look much different than other non-specific 60 tooth carbide
blades -- except the price sticker, $90 !! It was given to me.

I just bought an Avanti two-pack of 10" 60 tooth from HD, for $29. Just
wondering what diffs between the two blades to expect, if any.

In the two pack?

No, between a blade advertised as specifically for alum (and for $90), vs.
low-end generic blades.
I would expect that long term in a more expensive blade the carbide would
be
a better quality and better-brazed and thus would have a longer service
life, but I wonder if, short-term, there would be a noticeable difference
from the higher price and the "aluminum specificity".

IMHO - beats the heck out of me! I will assume that you get what
you pay for, mostly.
Again, I'll just say "Depends on if what you want can be done with
the cheap tools." I've a friend who is an Ace Anal Machinist (When I
crashed the machine I was on, it was only 35,000 to fix the spindle,
when he crashed his - 100,000 just for the spindle. Ever 'Fed ex' a
spindle from Germany? But I digress.)
I will tolerate finishes he won't, because "It is done". But he
wants everything Done Right. So he buys the quality tools. OTOH, he
knows where and how to get it for less. Lots less. He bought me a 1
inch mic with a twelve in throat - for twenty bucks, delivered!

I know a couple of A.A.M.'s , and I cain't ever let them see my "work",
otherwise they proly wouldn't talk to me anymore.

The concept of getting what you pay for is an inneresting one, tho. Esp.
when currency starts to lose its meaning.
--
EA


--
pyotr filipivich
We will drink no whiskey before its nine.
It's eight fifty eight. Close enough!

"Existential Angst" on Wed, 6 Apr 2011 08:15:36
-0400 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
"pyotr filipivich" wrote in message
.. .
"Existential Angst" on Wed, 30 Mar 2011
08:24:04 -0400 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

"Depends on how much of a cut/chipload and the nature of the
finish you want."

I will switch to new or unchipped blades awaiting Group Advice.

Also, I have a 10" 80 tooth Morse Metal Devil specifically for alum,
which
doesn't look much different than other non-specific 60 tooth carbide
blades -- except the price sticker, $90 !! It was given to me.

I just bought an Avanti two-pack of 10" 60 tooth from HD, for $29. Just
wondering what diffs between the two blades to expect, if any.

In the two pack?

No, between a blade advertised as specifically for alum (and for $90), vs.
low-end generic blades.
I would expect that long term in a more expensive blade the carbide would
be
a better quality and better-brazed and thus would have a longer service
life, but I wonder if, short-term, there would be a noticeable difference
from the higher price and the "aluminum specificity".

IMHO - beats the heck out of me! I will assume that you get what
you pay for, mostly.
Again, I'll just say "Depends on if what you want can be done with
the cheap tools." I've a friend who is an Ace Anal Machinist (When I
crashed the machine I was on, it was only 35,000 to fix the spindle,
when he crashed his - 100,000 just for the spindle. Ever 'Fed ex' a
spindle from Germany? But I digress.)
I will tolerate finishes he won't, because "It is done". But he
wants everything Done Right. So he buys the quality tools. OTOH, he
knows where and how to get it for less. Lots less. He bought me a 1
inch mic with a twelve in throat - for twenty bucks, delivered!

I know a couple of A.A.M.'s , and I cain't ever let them see my "work",
otherwise they proly wouldn't talk to me anymore.

They will talk to you - pointing out all the flaws in your
project, the errors which lead to those flaws, and the corrections you
should have made before you started.

The concept of getting what you pay for is an inneresting one, tho. Esp.
when currency starts to lose its meaning.

Ayup. In the novel _Malevel_ the main character is a horse
trader. After the Event (WW3) he and his group swap food with the
survivors in the local village, for two of their horses. A henchman
wants a bribe for allowing him to take the saddle and bridle. Etienne
trades his gold ring for the tack - reasoning that it will be decades
before gold will be "valuable" but with these two mare and the
stallion at home, he will have a monopoly on horse production in the
valley (and "the world".)
--
pyotr filipivich
We will drink no whiskey before its nine.
It's eight fifty eight. Close enough!

The missing/chipped teeth mean you have hit a nail or something
really hard. Aluminum did NOT do it. If these are quality
blades, take them to a commercial saw blade sharpening service.
They will replace missing teeth and advise on whether the blade is
worth messing with.

I suspect the Morse blade you mention is made for cutting steel,
not aluminum (though, it will work). Here is some information:
http://www.mkmorse.com/products/index.aspx?product=75

Old blades make decent knife blades or you can mount battery clock
movements on them to give as gifts. Maybe you know someone who
likes to paint sawblades. It hurts my soul to see a fine old
London 12 or similar with its cutesy snow scene.

--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
DanG
Keep the whole world singing . . .


"Existential Angst" wrote in message
...
Awl --

I do some alum cutting on my RAS, using mostly 60 tooth 10"
blades -- everything from 1/8" material, to 3" material, with
1" flat and round bar being typical.

How significant is chipped/missing carbide on a tooth or two
(non-adjacent)?

If a chipped/missing tooth is ok for 60 tooth, how coarse can
the blade get before missing/chipped carbide is not OK?

If dicey on alum, can these chipped blades be used safely on
wood?

I will switch to new or unchipped blades awaiting Group Advice.

Also, I have a 10" 80 tooth Morse Metal Devil specifically for
alum, which doesn't look much different than other non-specific
60 tooth carbide blades -- except the price sticker, $90 !! It
was given to me.

I just bought an Avanti two-pack of 10" 60 tooth from HD, for
$29. Just wondering what diffs between the two blades to
expect, if any.

Any nifty uses for worn-out RAS blades? Frisbee?? Just
scrap'em?
--
EA

"DanG" wrote in message
...
The missing/chipped teeth mean you have hit a nail or something really
hard. Aluminum did NOT do it. If these are quality blades, take them to
a commercial saw blade sharpening service. They will replace missing teeth
and advise on whether the blade is worth messing with.

Proly not for a $15 blade. There is a place that resharpens non-carbide
cold-saw blades, and that charge is minimum $30.

Can a DIYer braze carbide? How is it done commercially? Plain ole brazing
rod?


I suspect the Morse blade you mention is made for cutting steel, not
aluminum (though, it will work). Here is some information:
http://www.mkmorse.com/products/index.aspx?product=75

Well, it says "aluminum blade" right on the blade/package.
In fact, on your link, my exact blade is second from the top in that list
you see if you scroll down a bit.

So if you take Morse at their apparent word, there are design diffs for all
those applications.


Old blades make decent knife blades or you can mount battery clock
movements on them to give as gifts.

Neat ideas. I think a really beat up saw blade would make a great clock
face!!
Heh, mebbe with some dried blood on it?? LOL!!!

--
EA


Maybe you know someone who
likes to paint sawblades. It hurts my soul to see a fine old London 12 or
similar with its cutesy snow scene.

--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
DanG
Keep the whole world singing . . .


"Existential Angst" wrote in message
...
Awl --

I do some alum cutting on my RAS, using mostly 60 tooth 10" blades --
everything from 1/8" material, to 3" material, with 1" flat and round bar
being typical.

How significant is chipped/missing carbide on a tooth or two
(non-adjacent)?

If a chipped/missing tooth is ok for 60 tooth, how coarse can the blade
get before missing/chipped carbide is not OK?

If dicey on alum, can these chipped blades be used safely on wood?

I will switch to new or unchipped blades awaiting Group Advice.

Also, I have a 10" 80 tooth Morse Metal Devil specifically for alum,
which doesn't look much different than other non-specific 60 tooth
carbide blades -- except the price sticker, $90 !! It was given to me.

I just bought an Avanti two-pack of 10" 60 tooth from HD, for $29. Just
wondering what diffs between the two blades to expect, if any.

Any nifty uses for worn-out RAS blades? Frisbee?? Just scrap'em?
--
EA

DanG wrote:
...
Old blades make decent knife blades ...

You you mean carbide-tipped blades or the plain blades? I always
assumed that there was nothing special about the "carrier" steel in a
carbide tipped because all it has to do is hold the carbide. I'd be
interested in knowing if that's not true.

Bob

On Mar 29, 8:06*pm, "Existential Angst" wrote:

Any nifty uses for worn-out RAS blades? *Frisbee?? *Just scrap'em?

I did, once, try one as a frisbee. It was pretty, cool - flew more
than 100 feet across the warehouse and stuck into a wood beam. It
actually appeared to have some lift. The bitch was that I had to drag
out a ladder to retrieve the blade - didn't want it to fall on
anyone's head.