"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

"Existential Angst" wrote in message
...
Awl --

I do some alum cutting on my RAS, using mostly 60 tooth 10" blades --
everything from 1/8" material, to 3" material, with 1" flat and round bar
being typical.

How significant is chipped/missing carbide on a tooth or two
(non-adjacent)?

If a chipped/missing tooth is ok for 60 tooth, how coarse can the blade
get before missing/chipped carbide is not OK?

If dicey on alum, can these chipped blades be used safely on wood?

I've used all kinds of chipped-tooth blades on wood for decades. I just
save them for rough work. Just don't feed them too fast, and you probably
won't notice the difference. I don't think that safety is much of an
issue, but I'm careful not to stand in line with any brazed-tooth blade.
The little suckers come off the wheel like bullets.

However, that's on a table saw. I don't use a radial-arm; they're a little
rough for me, even with a perfect blade.


I will switch to new or unchipped blades awaiting Group Advice.

Also, I have a 10" 80 tooth Morse Metal Devil specifically for alum,
which doesn't look much different than other non-specific 60 tooth
carbide blades -- except the price sticker, $90 !! It was given to me.

I just bought an Avanti two-pack of 10" 60 tooth from HD, for $29. Just
wondering what diffs between the two blades to expect, if any.

Any nifty uses for worn-out RAS blades? Frisbee?? Just scrap'em?

How worn out? I have an old diamond wheel from a surface grinder I mount
on a lathe arbor, and sharpen the teeth with a fixture I made that mounts
on my milling attachment. I've used some of the same blades for 35 years.

--
Cheap Ed Huntress


I use the 4th axis index on the fadal and a cup wheel to sharpen circular
saw blades, count the number of teeth and divide 360 by the number of teeth
to get your per-tooth angle increment takes about 6 lines of code to run an
endless loop that takes off a thou at a time

--