I have a tablesaw with a sliding cutoff box that I often use to cut small
pieces of wood and plastic.

Today I needed to cut some aluminum (about 3/32" thick).

I put in a steel blade that was marked "for aluminum and plastic" and had a
difficult time. The cutting went slowly and the aluminum got very hot. By
the end, the blade was bent.

I then put in a 40-tooth (8-inch dia.) Piranha carbide-tipped wood-cutting
blade that was several years old. It cut the aluminum very happily, with
very little heat.

I know this is putting more wear on the blade than wood would, but how much
more? Am I doing anything harmful to the tools? Seems to me the original
"aluminum and plastic" blade was much worse.

"mc" wrote in message
. ..
| I have a tablesaw with a sliding cutoff box that I often use to cut
small
| pieces of wood and plastic.
|
| Today I needed to cut some aluminum (about 3/32" thick).
|
| I put in a steel blade that was marked "for aluminum and plastic"
and had a
| difficult time. The cutting went slowly and the aluminum got very
hot. By
| the end, the blade was bent.
|
| I then put in a 40-tooth (8-inch dia.) Piranha carbide-tipped
wood-cutting
| blade that was several years old. It cut the aluminum very happily,
with
| very little heat.
|
| I know this is putting more wear on the blade than wood would, but
how much
| more? Am I doing anything harmful to the tools? Seems to me the
original
| "aluminum and plastic" blade was much worse.

The aircraft shop next to mine uses a chop saw with a wood-cutting
blade to cut not only aluminum, but also chrome moly steel tubing.
They report that with a slow, even feed the blades last for a long
time.

"Very hot" means either dull blade or feeding too slowly. Carbide
teeth flying around the shop indicate excessive feed speed. DAMHIKT.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto

On Mon, 27 Feb 2006 22:18:42 -0500, "mc"
wrote:

I have a tablesaw with a sliding cutoff box that I often use to cut small
pieces of wood and plastic.

Today I needed to cut some aluminum (about 3/32" thick).

I put in a steel blade that was marked "for aluminum and plastic" and had a
difficult time. The cutting went slowly and the aluminum got very hot. By
the end, the blade was bent.

I then put in a 40-tooth (8-inch dia.) Piranha carbide-tipped wood-cutting
blade that was several years old. It cut the aluminum very happily, with
very little heat.

I know this is putting more wear on the blade than wood would, but how much
more? Am I doing anything harmful to the tools? Seems to me the original
"aluminum and plastic" blade was much worse.

proper tool for the job is a "non ferrous metals" blade - has Carbide
tips with a different profile and set than the wood blade. draw your
line with a candle first - the wax keeps the chips from sticking in
the gullet.
*** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
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On Mon, 27 Feb 2006 22:18:42 -0500, "mc"
wrote:

I have a tablesaw with a sliding cutoff box that I often use to cut small
pieces of wood and plastic.

Today I needed to cut some aluminum (about 3/32" thick).

I put in a steel blade that was marked "for aluminum and plastic" and had a
difficult time. The cutting went slowly and the aluminum got very hot. By
the end, the blade was bent.

I then put in a 40-tooth (8-inch dia.) Piranha carbide-tipped wood-cutting
blade that was several years old. It cut the aluminum very happily, with
very little heat.

I know this is putting more wear on the blade than wood would, but how much
more? Am I doing anything harmful to the tools? Seems to me the original
"aluminum and plastic" blade was much worse.


April 2006 Workbench has some information on cutting aluminum on a
tablesaw. They recommend using a regular carbide blade with a zero
clearance insert and also mounting the aluminum with double-sided tape to a
sacrificial piece of hardboard, then usig a pushblock with a heal to push
the aluminum through the blade. Workbench April 2006, pp 34 ff.



+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough

+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

In article , Mark & Juanita
wrote:

pushblock with a heal to push the aluminum through the blade

Mark,

In this context, is "heal" a typo for "heel", or something specific to
cutting aluminium?

(serious question, no sarcasm intended)

--
Talking about art is like dancing about architecture - Frank Zappa

On Mon, 27 Feb 2006 22:30:27 -0600, Dave Balderstone
wrote:

In article , Mark & Juanita
wrote:

pushblock with a heal to push the aluminum through the blade

Mark,

In this context, is "heal" a typo for "heel", or something specific to
cutting aluminium?

(serious question, no sarcasm intended)

You are correct, it was a typo (can't believe I didn't catch that before
sending). i.e, the pushblock (they recommend a 2 x 4) has a heel that
catches on the back end of the sacrificial hardboard to push the
hardboard/aluminum piece through the blade.





+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough

+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

Mark & Juanita wrote:

April 2006 Workbench has some information on cutting aluminum on a
tablesaw. They recommend using a regular carbide blade with a zero
clearance insert and also mounting the aluminum with double-sided
tape to a sacrificial piece of hardboard

Good point (the hardboard)...I lost a bunch of teeth on a thin kerf
blade I really liked one time when a thin piece of aluminum wrapped
around it

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

"Mark & Juanita" wrote in message
news
On Mon, 27 Feb 2006 22:18:42 -0500, "mc"
wrote:

I have a tablesaw with a sliding cutoff box that I often use to cut small
pieces of wood and plastic.

Today I needed to cut some aluminum (about 3/32" thick).

I put in a steel blade that was marked "for aluminum and plastic" and had
a
difficult time. The cutting went slowly and the aluminum got very hot.
By
the end, the blade was bent.

I then put in a 40-tooth (8-inch dia.) Piranha carbide-tipped
wood-cutting
blade that was several years old. It cut the aluminum very happily, with
very little heat.

I know this is putting more wear on the blade than wood would, but how
much
more? Am I doing anything harmful to the tools? Seems to me the
original
"aluminum and plastic" blade was much worse.


April 2006 Workbench has some information on cutting aluminum on a
tablesaw. They recommend using a regular carbide blade with a zero
clearance insert and also mounting the aluminum with double-sided tape to
a
sacrificial piece of hardboard, then usig a pushblock with a heal to push
the aluminum through the blade. Workbench April 2006, pp 34 ff.


Any idea what the purpose of the sacrificial chunk of hardboard is? Perhaps
for cutting small pieces? I can't imagine any need for one if there isn't
an issue of getting one's fingers too close to the blade.

--

-Mike-

Mike Marlow wrote:
"Mark & Juanita" wrote in message
news
On Mon, 27 Feb 2006 22:18:42 -0500, "mc"
wrote:

I have a tablesaw with a sliding cutoff box that I often use to cut small
pieces of wood and plastic.

Today I needed to cut some aluminum (about 3/32" thick).

I put in a steel blade that was marked "for aluminum and plastic" and had
a
difficult time. The cutting went slowly and the aluminum got very hot.
By
the end, the blade was bent.

I then put in a 40-tooth (8-inch dia.) Piranha carbide-tipped
wood-cutting
blade that was several years old. It cut the aluminum very happily, with
very little heat.

I know this is putting more wear on the blade than wood would, but how
much
more? Am I doing anything harmful to the tools? Seems to me the
original
"aluminum and plastic" blade was much worse.

April 2006 Workbench has some information on cutting aluminum on a
tablesaw. They recommend using a regular carbide blade with a zero
clearance insert and also mounting the aluminum with double-sided tape to
a
sacrificial piece of hardboard, then usig a pushblock with a heal to push
the aluminum through the blade. Workbench April 2006, pp 34 ff.


Any idea what the purpose of the sacrificial chunk of hardboard is? Perhaps
for cutting small pieces? I can't imagine any need for one if there isn't
an issue of getting one's fingers too close to the blade.


One of the problems I had was vibration - rapid lift/contact with the
table. I expect that was from the slight spring in the metal. The
hardboard would add mass and dampen that.

"mc" wrote in message
. ..
I have a tablesaw with a sliding cutoff box that I often use to cut small
pieces of wood and plastic.

Today I needed to cut some aluminum (about 3/32" thick).

I put in a steel blade that was marked "for aluminum and plastic" and had
a difficult time. The cutting went slowly and the aluminum got very hot.
By the end, the blade was bent.

I then put in a 40-tooth (8-inch dia.) Piranha carbide-tipped wood-cutting
blade that was several years old. It cut the aluminum very happily, with
very little heat.

I know this is putting more wear on the blade than wood would, but how
much more? Am I doing anything harmful to the tools? Seems to me the
original "aluminum and plastic" blade was much worse.



I have an old DeWalt 60-tooth that I've use to cut both aluminum and steel,
on my table saw. (Several pieces of aluminum. One piece of 1/8" steel).
Works very well. I am careful to feed the material rather slowly, and if
the carbide teeth start breaking off, I'll chuck the blade. The idea of
carbide pieces bouncing around my shop, does give me some pause. But so
far, no problem.

Several years ago, I watched a pole barn being built. The crew used high
speed steel blades, REVERSED in the skill saws to cut the metal.

THERE is no recommendation in this post. I'm just saying, I've tried it and
it works for me.

"And as always, there is no more important rule than to wear these, safety
glasses."

"Amused" wrote in message
...
snip-------

Several years ago, I watched a pole barn being built. The crew used high
speed steel blades, REVERSED in the skill saws to cut the metal.

That process is known as friction sawing, and is used to great advantage for
sawing even heat treated items. DoAll makes vertical band saws
specifically for that application, with blade speeds that exceed 10,000 FPM.
One can saw with a blade inserted with the teeth running backwards equally
as well as with the teeth running forward. They don't cut by the same
principle as low speed machining.

Harold

In article ,
ess says...

I know this is putting more wear on the blade than wood would, but how much
more? Am I doing anything harmful to the tools? Seems to me the original
"aluminum and plastic" blade was much worse.


First up, you should have no problem whatsoever cutting alu with carbide.

The funny thing is, I do exactly the opposite: I got an aluminium cutting
carbide blade from my sawdoctor; it has very close set teeth and a negative
rake on it and I use this blade for super clean wood cutting - for instance
when I use MDF panels with .5mm real wood veneer for frame and panel - with an
ordinary sawblade this veneer will chip back up to 3mm from the (trailing)
edge, with the aluminium cutting blade it doesn't. Cost me a small fortune but
worth every cent :-)

-P.

--
=========================================
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