The missing/chipped teeth mean you have hit a nail or something
really hard. Aluminum did NOT do it. If these are quality
blades, take them to a commercial saw blade sharpening service.
They will replace missing teeth and advise on whether the blade is
worth messing with.

I suspect the Morse blade you mention is made for cutting steel,
not aluminum (though, it will work). Here is some information:
http://www.mkmorse.com/products/index.aspx?product=75

Old blades make decent knife blades or you can mount battery clock
movements on them to give as gifts. Maybe you know someone who
likes to paint sawblades. It hurts my soul to see a fine old
London 12 or similar with its cutesy snow scene.

--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
DanG
Keep the whole world singing . . .


"Existential Angst" wrote in message
...
Awl --

I do some alum cutting on my RAS, using mostly 60 tooth 10"
blades -- everything from 1/8" material, to 3" material, with
1" flat and round bar being typical.

How significant is chipped/missing carbide on a tooth or two
(non-adjacent)?

If a chipped/missing tooth is ok for 60 tooth, how coarse can
the blade get before missing/chipped carbide is not OK?

If dicey on alum, can these chipped blades be used safely on
wood?

I will switch to new or unchipped blades awaiting Group Advice.

Also, I have a 10" 80 tooth Morse Metal Devil specifically for
alum, which doesn't look much different than other non-specific
60 tooth carbide blades -- except the price sticker, $90 !! It
was given to me.

I just bought an Avanti two-pack of 10" 60 tooth from HD, for
$29. Just wondering what diffs between the two blades to
expect, if any.

Any nifty uses for worn-out RAS blades? Frisbee?? Just
scrap'em?
--
EA