"PrecisionmachinisT" wrote in message
news:JZydnc3OoOfXCQ_QnZ2dnUVZ_vSdnZ2d@scnresearch. com...

"Ed Huntress" wrote in message
...

"Existential Angst" wrote in message
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Awl --

I do some alum cutting on my RAS, using mostly 60 tooth 10" blades --
everything from 1/8" material, to 3" material, with 1" flat and round
bar being typical.

How significant is chipped/missing carbide on a tooth or two
(non-adjacent)?

If a chipped/missing tooth is ok for 60 tooth, how coarse can the blade
get before missing/chipped carbide is not OK?

If dicey on alum, can these chipped blades be used safely on wood?

I've used all kinds of chipped-tooth blades on wood for decades. I just
save them for rough work. Just don't feed them too fast, and you probably
won't notice the difference. I don't think that safety is much of an
issue, but I'm careful not to stand in line with any brazed-tooth blade.
The little suckers come off the wheel like bullets.

However, that's on a table saw. I don't use a radial-arm; they're a
little rough for me, even with a perfect blade.


I will switch to new or unchipped blades awaiting Group Advice.

Also, I have a 10" 80 tooth Morse Metal Devil specifically for alum,
which doesn't look much different than other non-specific 60 tooth
carbide blades -- except the price sticker, $90 !! It was given to me.

I just bought an Avanti two-pack of 10" 60 tooth from HD, for $29. Just
wondering what diffs between the two blades to expect, if any.

Any nifty uses for worn-out RAS blades? Frisbee?? Just scrap'em?

How worn out? I have an old diamond wheel from a surface grinder I mount
on a lathe arbor, and sharpen the teeth with a fixture I made that mounts
on my milling attachment. I've used some of the same blades for 35 years.

--
Cheap Ed Huntress


I use the 4th axis index on the fadal and a cup wheel to sharpen circular
saw blades, count the number of teeth and divide 360 by the number of
teeth to get your per-tooth angle increment takes about 6 lines of code to
run an endless loop that takes off a thou at a time

I've resharpened blades on a reg bench grinder -- or a dremel/die grinder --
just taking some material off the top for cutting clearance, sharp edge,
seems to work pretty good, goes pretty fast. Not precision, of course, but
not much is being taken off.

From one of the other replies, and from my own experience with end mills, a
dull edge/tooth can be deceptively subtle, in that it can feel sharp but not
actually BE sharp.
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EA



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