Leo Lichtman wrote:
"Don Foreman" wrote: I made a little brass stem , threaded on one end to
screw into the pipe of a Bernz-O-Matic propane torch. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
That's a marketable idea. If they were for sale, I would place an order
right now.

That's pretty unlikely, due to product liability concerns.

Is propane better than compressed air, due to the pressure and dryness?
What's the pressure of a propane tank?
Will a 20-lb BBQ grill propane tank also be suitable?

Rex B wrote:

Leo Lichtman wrote:

"Don Foreman" wrote: I made a little brass stem , threaded on one
end to screw into the pipe of a Bernz-O-Matic propane torch. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
That's a marketable idea. If they were for sale, I would place an
order right now.


That's pretty unlikely, due to product liability concerns.

Is propane better than compressed air, due to the pressure and dryness?
What's the pressure of a propane tank?
Will a 20-lb BBQ grill propane tank also be suitable?

The propellant in many spray cans *is* propane.

GWE

Grant Erwin wrote:
Rex B wrote:

Leo Lichtman wrote:

"Don Foreman" wrote: I made a little brass stem , threaded on one
end to screw into the pipe of a Bernz-O-Matic propane torch. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
That's a marketable idea. If they were for sale, I would place an
order right now.



That's pretty unlikely, due to product liability concerns.

Is propane better than compressed air, due to the pressure and dryness?
What's the pressure of a propane tank?
Will a 20-lb BBQ grill propane tank also be suitable?


The propellant in many spray cans *is* propane.

I thought they had pretty much all gone to compressed air, due to
environmental concerns, plus safety.
I didn't know that a spray can could work as a flame thrower, until
my BIL showed me in the hair spray dept at Treasure City 35 years ago

"Leo Lichtman" wrote in message
...

"Don Foreman" wrote: I made a little brass stem , threaded on one end to
screw into the pipe of a Bernz-O-Matic propane torch. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
That's a marketable idea. If they were for sale, I would place an order
right now.



I wonder if you purchased a butane cigarette lighter refill canister if one
of the 8 adaptors they supply with it would work with nothing to make?

Even if it doesn't, it would justify buying one of those neat little butane
mini torches that use the same canister.

--
Roger Shoaf

If knowledge is power, and power corrupts, what does this say about the
Congress?

On Tue, 27 Sep 2005 10:30:58 -0500, Rex B wrote:

Leo Lichtman wrote:
"Don Foreman" wrote: I made a little brass stem , threaded on one end to
screw into the pipe of a Bernz-O-Matic propane torch. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
That's a marketable idea. If they were for sale, I would place an order
right now.

That's pretty unlikely, due to product liability concerns.

Is propane better than compressed air, due to the pressure and dryness?
What's the pressure of a propane tank?
Will a 20-lb BBQ grill propane tank also be suitable?

Propane is better because vapor pressure in the can is constant as
long as there is any liquid propane present.

Propane pressure varies with temperature, is 110 PSI at 70F
See http://www.flameengineering.com/Propane_Info.html

A 14 oz propane bottle is better, because you can easily tip it upside
down to shoot liquid rather than gas into the paint can. It will
only shoot until the pressures equalize, but that's usually enough to
revive the can.

Don Foreman writes:

I wonder if helium will dissolve in water.

No, too small a Henry's Law constant. CO2 is remarkably soluble in water
and remarkably temperature-dependent in its solubility. It wouldn't be
fizzy otherwise.

In .fi, on 09/27/05
at 01:05 PM, Seismo Malm
said:

You can use it to carbonate beer
or hard cider too

AARRggghh! & you can use Moore & Wright micrometers to do up nuts, slip
guages make excellent packing for small pieces held in vice jaws, whilst
your lathe bed makes an excellent anvil, unless you've marked it too much
by angle grinding floor tiles on it.

-----------------------------------------------------------

-----------------------------------------------------------

On Mon, 26 Sep 2005 16:20:06 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm, Eric
R Snow quickly quoth:

On Mon, 26 Sep 2005 17:28:44 -0500, Don Foreman
wrote:

I made a little brass stem , threaded on one end to screw into the
pipe of a Bernz-O-Matic propane torch. The stem goes where the nozzle
was. Insert stem smartly, hold firmly, turn on propane. That will
often blow the paint tube clear, and re-pressurize the can. Saved
many rattlecans that way. Hardly ever get any on me.

[Your torch tips are threaded, Don? Most I've seen have straight pipe
ends.]


Don,
That's a great idea! I can think of at least 7 people I know who could
use these. Thanks! I'm gonna make some for Christmas presents. And
anybody who has put a match to spray paint knows that the propellant
burns pretty well so propane isn't gonna hurt.

The flammability issue has always kept me from trying that ploy.
Having made hair-net spray cans into flame throwers, I have a lot
of respect for the contents of aerosol cans and haven't wanted to
punch a steel item (nail, churchkey) through a steel can for fear of
sparks.

[Good idea, Don. I wonder if you could just use a rubber tipped blow
gun with a small paper clip (as a valve depressor, through the side)
to accomplish the same thing.]

--
"Simplicity of life, even the barest, is not misery but
the very foundation of refinement." --William Morris
-----------------------------------
www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development

On Tue, 27 Sep 2005 11:05:12 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, Gunner
quickly quoth:

Horrible Freight used to, and may still sell a refillable spray paint
can. Had a Schrader valve you could pressure up with your air hose. I
wound up with several of them over the years, and they work quite well
if you do have to bust open a spray can. They came with a handful of
nozzles, most of which Ive lost by now.

HF still makes 'em. I saw one a couple months back and I own one.
They work OK for thin stuff but won't work for spraying latex paint.
DAMHIKT. $9.95 on sale.

--
"Simplicity of life, even the barest, is not misery but
the very foundation of refinement." --William Morris
-----------------------------------
www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development

Roger Shoaf wrote:
"Leo Lichtman" wrote in message
...

"Don Foreman" wrote: I made a little brass stem , threaded on one end to
screw into the pipe of a Bernz-O-Matic propane torch. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
That's a marketable idea. If they were for sale, I would place an order
right now.




I wonder if you purchased a butane cigarette lighter refill canister if one
of the 8 adaptors they supply with it would work with nothing to make?

Even if it doesn't, it would justify buying one of those neat little butane
mini torches that use the same canister.


I got sseveral of the butane "grille" cannisters (about the size of
larger spray paint cans.) on sale the end of last summer and turned a
plastic adaptor to fill my $7 HF mini torch. That's probably going to be
a lifetime supply for me. That little torch lives on my bench as a handy
and clean heat source for small stuff, including heat shrink tubing
(With a deft enough quick pass, that is. G)

Interestingly, I saw the same little torch on sale at a fancy kitchen
shop for about $35 a little while ago. They were selling it for browning
the peaks of that stuff chefs top off creme bruleighs
with.(Howeverthehell they're spelled.)

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"Truth exists; only falsehood has to be invented."

the top of a crème brulee is sugar


"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message
...
Roger Shoaf wrote:
"Leo Lichtman" wrote in message
...

"Don Foreman" wrote: I made a little brass stem , threaded on one end
to
screw into the pipe of a Bernz-O-Matic propane torch. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
That's a marketable idea. If they were for sale, I would place an order
right now.




I wonder if you purchased a butane cigarette lighter refill canister if
one
of the 8 adaptors they supply with it would work with nothing to make?

Even if it doesn't, it would justify buying one of those neat little
butane
mini torches that use the same canister.


I got sseveral of the butane "grille" cannisters (about the size of larger
spray paint cans.) on sale the end of last summer and turned a plastic
adaptor to fill my $7 HF mini torch. That's probably going to be a
lifetime supply for me. That little torch lives on my bench as a handy and
clean heat source for small stuff, including heat shrink tubing (With a
deft enough quick pass, that is. G)

Interestingly, I saw the same little torch on sale at a fancy kitchen shop
for about $35 a little while ago. They were selling it for browning the
peaks of that stuff chefs top off creme bruleighs with.(Howeverthehell
they're spelled.)

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"Truth exists; only falsehood has to be invented."

On Mon, 26 Sep 2005 11:23:43 -0700, Grant Erwin
wrote:

Is there any safe way to open a still-pressurized can of spray paint with a
completely plugged nozzle, to get the paint out so I can brush it on?

How about if I made a tool e.g. drilled a small hole in a Popsicle stick or
tongue depressor, turned the can upside down, removed the nozzle, and depressed
the valve stem with the hole aligned? Maybe the air would all come out and leave
the paint inside, then I could cut it open any way I wanted reasonably safely.

Ideas? Experience?

GWE

How about adapting one of those little refrigerant-can hoses to
puncture the bottom. They already have a rubber seal and a screw-down
needle, so you'd only need to invent a bomb-bottom-gripper. ;-)

Wayne

wmbjk wrote:
On Mon, 26 Sep 2005 11:23:43 -0700, Grant Erwin
wrote:


Is there any safe way to open a still-pressurized can of spray paint with a
completely plugged nozzle, to get the paint out so I can brush it on?

How about if I made a tool e.g. drilled a small hole in a Popsicle stick or
tongue depressor, turned the can upside down, removed the nozzle, and depressed
the valve stem with the hole aligned? Maybe the air would all come out and leave
the paint inside, then I could cut it open any way I wanted reasonably safely.

Ideas? Experience?

GWE


How about adapting one of those little refrigerant-can hoses to
puncture the bottom. They already have a rubber seal and a screw-down
needle, so you'd only need to invent a bomb-bottom-gripper. ;-)

Use the kind that wraps around the OD, shim it as needed. Punctures the
side.

Richard J Kinch wrote:
Don Foreman writes:


I wonder if helium will dissolve in water.


No, too small a Henry's Law constant. CO2 is remarkably soluble in water
and remarkably temperature-dependent in its solubility. It wouldn't be
fizzy otherwise.

Does that have also something to do with why deep sea divers use a
helium oxygen mix instead of nitrogen oxygen (air), because maybe the
helium doesn't give them "the bends" as easily as nitrogen?

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"Truth exists; only falsehood has to be invented."

"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message
...
Richard J Kinch wrote:
Don Foreman writes:


I wonder if helium will dissolve in water.


No, too small a Henry's Law constant. CO2 is remarkably soluble in water
and remarkably temperature-dependent in its solubility. It wouldn't be
fizzy otherwise.

Does that have also something to do with why deep sea divers use a helium
oxygen mix instead of nitrogen oxygen (air), because maybe the helium
doesn't give them "the bends" as easily as nitrogen?

Jeff


yes.

nitrogen dissolves in blood under pressure. it comes out as bubbles when the
pressure lets off, causing the bends.

helium doesn't.

regards,
charlie
http://glassartists.org/chaniarts

Well, no - but that's not what I meant.
I think there might be a language problem here, or I'm not understanding
something. What I mean is, make a hole at the uppermost end of the can,
where the liquid, due to gravity, isn't.
It sounded to me like the original suggestion was to puncture the bottom
of the can, while the liquid is at the bottom ("base down").
Surely not right?

Jeff Wisnia wrote:

Why make the hole at the bottom?
Wouldn't a hole at the top release the gas, without the paint?


If it's upside down, the bottom _is_ the top. And the bottom is a much
better surface to try to pierce.


And it sounds like Jordan was trying to get the paint to **** out of the
bottom of the can and squirt into the bucket.

Fess up Jordan, have you *actually* done it that way yourself?

Gunner wrote:
Horrible Freight used to, and may still sell a refillable spray paint
can. Had a Schrader valve you could pressure up with your air hose. I
wound up with several of them over the years, and they work quite well
if you do have to bust open a spray can. They came with a handful of
nozzles, most of which Ive lost by now.

Gunner





I tried one of these and it did work well for a while, then the nozzle
clogged and resisted every attempt at un-clogging. Naturally the stem
is an oddball diameter (probably metric) and an ordinary can nozzle
won't fit.

Mike

Jeff Wisnia writes:

Does that have also something to do with why deep sea divers use a
helium oxygen mix instead of nitrogen oxygen (air), because maybe the
helium doesn't give them "the bends" as easily as nitrogen?

Helium is inert, nitrogen is narcotic at depth.

Helium is much less viscous; much less effort to respire vs other gases.

Instead of helium, sport divers poison themselves with excess oxygen to
reduce the pN2 in the mix, aka "nitrox". Sport divers can't be trusted
with helium mixes. This is considered cool and advanced.

On Tue, 27 Sep 2005 13:25:30 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:


[Your torch tips are threaded, Don? Most I've seen have straight pipe
ends.]

The end of the burner is straight, but some disassembly is possible on
most torches. I have an old Bernz-O-Matic that accepted replacable
threaded orifices. Used that for a while. Many torches have a 5/16"
dia brass tube that screws into the valve body, even if they don't
use removable orifices. I have a B-O-M like that, and a recent one
by Goss that is also made that way. Model GP-9
http://www.gossonline.com/hand_torches.asp
available from Enco. 505-4820.

I made an adaptor that fits the threaded hole in the B-O-M valve that
accepts the stems I made to fit the old setup with the replacable
orifices.

See http://users.goldengate.net/~dforeman/rattlecan/

This is the valve body from an old B-O-M I found at a garage sale for
a buck. This is easier to use because it's a straight push down on
the propane bottle with the spraycan sitting on the bench.


[Good idea, Don. I wonder if you could just use a rubber tipped blow
gun with a small paper clip (as a valve depressor, through the side)
to accomplish the same thing.]

I think that would result in paint all over the place. A trick to
this is to have the nozzle stem fit the can snugly and push it in
smartly. Then turn on the propane. It only takes a couple of
seconds to take as much as it's going to. Pull out smartly, replace
nozzle. Shake can vigorously so it won't plug again. Commence or
resume spraying!

wrote in message
...
In .fi, on 09/27/05
at 01:05 PM, Seismo Malm
said:

You can use it to carbonate beer
or hard cider too

AARRggghh! & you can use Moore & Wright micrometers to do up nuts, slip
guages make excellent packing for small pieces held in vice jaws, whilst
your lathe bed makes an excellent anvil, unless you've marked it too much
by angle grinding floor tiles on it.

-----------------------------------------------------------

-----------------------------------------------------------


It's not as bad as it sounds. There was a store, (Boots if I remember it
right), in England that sold a home brewing kit that included a thick walled
plastic brewing container that held about 5 gallons. Once you added the
wort and yeast and let if ferment, it built up it's own CO2 feed pressure
and carbonation. After a few weeks, when you started pulling off the beer
and it got down to about half the level of the sealed container, the
pressure was no longer sufficient to push it out through the tap. There was
a one way valve on the top where you could inject CO2 from a tool that held
a small gas cartridge. I brewed a lot of beer in one of these things
overseas and they worked well. Couldn't tell any difference in the taste
after I started using the gas injector when the level dropped.

Jordan wrote:
Well, no - but that's not what I meant.
I think there might be a language problem here, or I'm not understanding
something. What I mean is, make a hole at the uppermost end of the can,
where the liquid, due to gravity, isn't.
It sounded to me like the original suggestion was to puncture the bottom
of the can, while the liquid is at the bottom ("base down").
Surely not right?


Mea Culpa and apologies, Jordan. It was actually Ian Sterling to whom I
should have addressed my skeptical remarks towards.

Sometimes quoted material in posts mixes me up and I end up picking on
the wrong poster. :-)

Jeff



Jeff Wisnia wrote:


Why make the hole at the bottom?
Wouldn't a hole at the top release the gas, without the paint?



If it's upside down, the bottom _is_ the top. And the bottom is a much
better surface to try to pierce.



And it sounds like Jordan was trying to get the paint to **** out of
the bottom of the can and squirt into the bucket.

Fess up Jordan, have you *actually* done it that way yourself?



--
Jeffry Wisnia

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"Truth exists; only falsehood has to be invented."

On Tue, 27 Sep 2005 18:58:18 -0500, Richard J Kinch
wrote:

Jeff Wisnia writes:

Does that have also something to do with why deep sea divers use a
helium oxygen mix instead of nitrogen oxygen (air), because maybe the
helium doesn't give them "the bends" as easily as nitrogen?

Helium is inert, nitrogen is narcotic at depth.

Helium is much less viscous; much less effort to respire vs other gases.

Instead of helium, sport divers poison themselves with excess oxygen to
reduce the pN2 in the mix, aka "nitrox". Sport divers can't be trusted
with helium mixes. This is considered cool and advanced.

Sport divers are categorically dumber than ... whom? Jeff, a
graduate of MIT, was a sport diver. My son, a grad of U of MN in EE,
is a sport diver. I doubt that many professional deep divers have
PhD's.

On Tue, 27 Sep 2005 19:04:45 +0000 (UTC), wrote:

In .fi, on 09/27/05
at 01:05 PM, Seismo Malm
said:

You can use it to carbonate beer
or hard cider too

AARRggghh! & you can use Moore & Wright micrometers to do up nuts, slip
guages make excellent packing for small pieces held in vice jaws, whilst
your lathe bed makes an excellent anvil, unless you've marked it too much
by angle grinding floor tiles on it.

LOL. Geez, I never tried the lathe bed for grinding floor tiles.
I've always use the granite surface plate -- but the working height
of the lathe bed might indeed be easier on my back. Thanks!

On Tue, 27 Sep 2005 22:31:15 -0400, "gfulton"
wrote:




It's not as bad as it sounds. There was a store, (Boots if I remember it
right), in England that sold a home brewing kit that included a thick walled
plastic brewing container that held about 5 gallons. Once you added the
wort and yeast and let if ferment, it built up it's own CO2 feed pressure
and carbonation. After a few weeks, when you started pulling off the beer
and it got down to about half the level of the sealed container, the
pressure was no longer sufficient to push it out through the tap. There was
a one way valve on the top where you could inject CO2 from a tool that held
a small gas cartridge. I brewed a lot of beer in one of these things
overseas and they worked well. Couldn't tell any difference in the taste
after I started using the gas injector when the level dropped.

May have been sold by Boots but was made by Edme - I have one down
in the "brewery" that I used a few times, even modified the shelving
(metal content) in the beer fridge to accommodate the unit. but was
never satisfied. The beer was made in a separate vessel then racked
into the pressure barrel and a bit more sugar added for carbonation.
If anyone wants to try it, it is free to a good home including 8 or 10
of the CO2 cartridges and instructions.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

Don Foreman writes:

Sport divers are categorically dumber than ... whom?

Sorry, my sarcasm should have been clearer. I am a sport diver myself.
Dive shops have to assume their clientele are idiots. I know from
experience that one breath of seawater will lower your effective IQ quite a
bit.

Don Foreman wrote:




Sport divers are categorically dumber than ... whom? Jeff, a
graduate of MIT, was a sport diver. My son, a grad of U of MN in EE,
is a sport diver. I doubt that many professional deep divers have
PhD's.


Hey, wachitt Don! I represent that remark!

(Or s**t, I meant to say resent.)

That old "rapture of the deep" just keeps coming back I guess, though
it's been at least 40 years since I last pulled on a wet suit.

Me and my diving buddy circa the early 60s:

http://home.comcast.net/~jwisnia18/temp/divepals.html

Metal content...lead diving weights and the metal CO2 cartridge holders
over her right boob and my left.

We made our own wet suits back then (Trace, snip and glue.), and I came
up with the bright idea of installing the rubber bladders from a couple
of "Mae West" life vests inside our wet suit jackets, with the CO2 and
oral inflators outside, to use if we needed emergency flotation.

Before some wisenheimer asks, the offset locations of those CO2
cartridge holders on our two suits didn't didn't cause us any underwater
entanglements. I'm righthanded and she was sinistral*, so I picked those
locations for activtion by our dominant hands.

She got some strange looks from people by standing on the beach and
popping the CO2, long before Dolly Parton became a household word.

Jeff

* http://www.m-w.com/cgi-bin/dictionar...y&va=sinistral

--
Jeffry Wisnia

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"Truth exists; only falsehood has to be invented."

Ignoramus4243 wrote:

On Tue, 27 Sep 2005 14:16:01 +0000 (UTC), Seismo Malm wrote:

In article , Ignoramus4243 wrote:

On Tue, 27 Sep 2005 13:05:46 +0000 (UTC), Seismo Malm wrote:

In article , Ignoramus4243 wrote:

On Mon, 26 Sep 2005 17:23:59 -0700, Grant Erwin wrote:

I would have expected no less than that from you, Don, the guy who IIRC
told me he made a his own special bottle cap so he could refizz flat
soda pop with CO2.

I just pour the flat soda in my 40 year old "soda syphon" and waste a
CO2 cartridge on it, 'cause I don't have a big tank of CO2 standing
around. :-)

Jeff Wisnia

I have nailed the problem of either making soda water or recarbonating anything
fizzy in a plastic soda bottle. I followed Richard Kinch's advice pretty much
but for the cap hardware. I just went to the car parts store and bought some
screw-on Schrader valves and drilled holes in plastic bottlecaps and screwed on
the Schrader valves. I have a CO2 tank with Schrader fitting so now it's duck
soup to pressurize a plastic bottle. For awhile I had my kids make their own
pop. I think they were horrified by the quantities of sugar that went in,
because now they don't drink sugary pop any more, so I'd say it worked.

I'm wondering if a small CO2 bottle, the 20 pound kind, can be used for MIG
welding aluminum.

Grant, I am greatly interested in making my own carbonated water. I am
on low carb, no sugar, but we spend quite a bit of $$ on buying
carbonated mineral water. Can you give some more details on homemade
carbonated water, thanks.


i


I have used carbonator cap (I now have two systems, one at work and one at
home) to carbonate water. see http://www.liquidbread.com/carb.html
Morebeer (www.morebeer.com) sells it for 12 USD but you will need co2
tank, ball lock connector and regulator. You can use it to carbonate beer
or hard cider too (either in bottles or corny kegs).



That's very interesting. With this, I also need a CO2 tank and a
regulator, right?

i


Yep.

Locally I pay 0.40 euro per litre for naturally carbonated mineral water
(cheapest brand) and local homebrew store sold me 750 gram co2
bottle+regulator for 50 euros (refill at 15 euros [expensive]). One litre
of co2 weights about 2 grams so I will get about 100 litres of carbonated
water (4 volumes of carbon dioxide per volume of water) with one refill
and no empty bottles to dispose of. With larger co2 tank savings are
biger, locally it is about same if you fill a 10 kg tank or 750 gram one.

At home I have 10 kg tank, it takes several years for me to use it.

Btw, I live in Finland (where usual price of brand soft drinks [Coca-Cola,
Pepsi, Sprite ...] is something like 2.20 euros per 1.5 litres [1.7 USD /
quart ...])



Very nice. I would be looking into getting a CO2 tank and regulator. I
am sick of buying carbonated water. It costs me approximately 50 US
cents per liter, same as your 0.40 euros. Maybe I will look into
buying a use soda fountain, if it is possible to use one without
syrup.

i


Seems appropriate to add this here for any of you not yet familiar with it:

http://home.howstuffworks.com/question446.htm

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"Truth exists; only falsehood has to be invented."

I had a can of WD that had fallen on its tip. It was so screwed up
that it wouldn't even spit. I tipped it over with the bottom up at an
angle and stuck it with a scribe. (I was outside when I did this).
As the scribe pierced the can, it did spray a bit but only a little.
After a short time, the pressure bled off and the can was inert. I
drained the WD out into a bowl and everybody lived happily ever
after....

On Mon, 26 Sep 2005 11:23:43 -0700, Grant Erwin
wrote:

Is there any safe way to open a still-pressurized can of spray paint with a
completely plugged nozzle, to get the paint out so I can brush it on?

How about if I made a tool e.g. drilled a small hole in a Popsicle stick or
tongue depressor, turned the can upside down, removed the nozzle, and depressed
the valve stem with the hole aligned? Maybe the air would all come out and leave
the paint inside, then I could cut it open any way I wanted reasonably safely.

Ideas? Experience?

GWE



----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 100,000 Newsgroups
---= East/West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---

I have poke lots of spray cans over the yeras and have never had much
sucess in usuing the paint inside with a brush. It would either dry to
darn quick to brush out, or it would be too thin. One thing that was
most always present was the paints seemed to be super saturated with
whatever was used for propellent, and even when all pressure was out
of spray can, and pain t was place in a small container like a jar
etc, it was always sort of in a constant motion and moving with micro
bubbles gassing out, even days later. My plans to use it in an airbush
never worked either.

On Sat, 29 Oct 2005 19:23:47 -0700, Roger rlrsk8r at hot mail wrote:

===I had a can of WD that had fallen on its tip. It was so screwed up
===that it wouldn't even spit. I tipped it over with the bottom up at an
===angle and stuck it with a scribe. (I was outside when I did this).
===As the scribe pierced the can, it did spray a bit but only a little.
===After a short time, the pressure bled off and the can was inert. I
===drained the WD out into a bowl and everybody lived happily ever
===after....
===
===On Mon, 26 Sep 2005 11:23:43 -0700, Grant Erwin
wrote:
===
===Is there any safe way to open a still-pressurized can of spray paint with a
===completely plugged nozzle, to get the paint out so I can brush it on?
===
===How about if I made a tool e.g. drilled a small hole in a Popsicle stick or
===tongue depressor, turned the can upside down, removed the nozzle, and depressed
===the valve stem with the hole aligned? Maybe the air would all come out and leave
===the paint inside, then I could cut it open any way I wanted reasonably safely.
===
===Ideas? Experience?
===
===GWE
===
===
===
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Put some color in your cheeks...garden naked!
"The original frugal ponder"
~~~~ }((((o ~~~~~~ }{{{{o ~~~~~~~ }(((((o

Is there any safe way to open a still-pressurized can of spray paint with a
completely plugged nozzle, to get the paint out so I can brush it on?

How about if I made a tool e.g. drilled a small hole in a Popsicle stick or
tongue depressor, turned the can upside down, removed the nozzle, and depressed
the valve stem with the hole aligned? Maybe the air would all come out and leave
the paint inside, then I could cut it open any way I wanted reasonably safely.

Ideas? Experience?

GWE


Is it the plastic nozzle that is clogged, or the valve in the can? If it
is just the nozzle, you can replace it with a similar nozzle.

One tip to prevent clogging, always replace the can cover as soon as
possible after cleaning the nozzle.

In article ,
Grant Erwin wrote:

Is there any safe way to open a still-pressurized can of spray paint with a
completely plugged nozzle, to get the paint out so I can brush it on?

How about if I made a tool e.g. drilled a small hole in a Popsicle stick or
tongue depressor, turned the can upside down, removed the nozzle, and
depressed
the valve stem with the hole aligned? Maybe the air would all come out and
leave
the paint inside, then I could cut it open any way I wanted reasonably safely.

Ideas? Experience?

GWE

How about a freon can tap? You know, the clamp-on type with a barbed
needle to pierce the side of the can. Usually come with a shim or two
for various sizes of cans. I think it can get small enough to grab a
spray paint can. Do it up high to vent the pressure instead of the
paint.
And yes, this article just appeared on my news spool today. Weird.

--
B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net

B.B. wrote:
In article ,
Grant Erwin wrote:


Is there any safe way to open a still-pressurized can of spray paint with a
completely plugged nozzle, to get the paint out so I can brush it on?

How about if I made a tool e.g. drilled a small hole in a Popsicle stick or
tongue depressor, turned the can upside down, removed the nozzle, and
depressed
the valve stem with the hole aligned? Maybe the air would all come out and
leave
the paint inside, then I could cut it open any way I wanted reasonably safely.

Ideas? Experience?

GWE


How about a freon can tap? You know, the clamp-on type with a barbed
needle to pierce the side of the can. Usually come with a shim or two
for various sizes of cans. I think it can get small enough to grab a
spray paint can. Do it up high to vent the pressure instead of the
paint.
And yes, this article just appeared on my news spool today. Weird.


How about this - throw the plugged can in the trash and buy a new one?
I've seen two people try to do what you're suggesting, and both times
they ended up with a big mess.

In article ,
Tim Killian wrote:

How about a freon can tap? You know, the clamp-on type with a barbed
needle to pierce the side of the can. Usually come with a shim or two
for various sizes of cans. I think it can get small enough to grab a
spray paint can. Do it up high to vent the pressure instead of the
paint.
And yes, this article just appeared on my news spool today. Weird.


How about this - throw the plugged can in the trash and buy a new one?
I've seen two people try to do what you're suggesting, and both times
they ended up with a big mess.

What happened? They poke the seam and rip the can open?

--
B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net

"~Roy" wrote in message
...
I have poke lots of spray cans over the yeras and have never had much
sucess in usuing the paint inside
Snip
My plans to use it in an airbush
never worked either.
I just had this problem . I drilled a small hole in the top of the can and
let the gas out paint started coming out along with the gas and I held a rag
over the can until the hissing stopped. Then tipped the can up and the gas
mixed in with the paint squirted the paint into the cup of my touch up gun.
I painted my composite gun stock with the spray gun and it came out
perfectly. I could have waited and ordered a new tip from Brownell's for $4
plus shipping and waited three days. I chose to sacrifice an ounce of paint
and get the job done. I saved the leftover paint in an airtight can and
will use it again.

B.B. wrote:
In article ,
Tim Killian wrote:


How about a freon can tap? You know, the clamp-on type with a barbed
needle to pierce the side of the can. Usually come with a shim or two
for various sizes of cans. I think it can get small enough to grab a
spray paint can. Do it up high to vent the pressure instead of the
paint.
And yes, this article just appeared on my news spool today. Weird.


How about this - throw the plugged can in the trash and buy a new one?
I've seen two people try to do what you're suggesting, and both times
they ended up with a big mess.


What happened? They poke the seam and rip the can open?


The first was my older brother who used a nail to puncture a small,
plugged-up can of Testors spray paint so he could finish a model he was
building. The can got away from him and rolled across his bedroom floor
spewing red paint. My mother wasn't amused. The second was a machinist
friend who used a dental probe to try and unclog the stem on a can of
white spray paint. It suddenly spewed in his face -- he is a black guy
-- and everyone in his shop must have laughed for ten minutes at the
result. Imagine black-face makeup in reverse!

I suppose you could put the can inside a big trash bag, go outdoors, and
puncture it to try and save the paint. I wouldn't bother with it. If the
cops see you, they'll arrest you for huffing ;-)

"B.B." u wrote:


How about this - throw the plugged can in the trash and buy a new one?
I've seen two people try to do what you're suggesting, and both times
they ended up with a big mess.

What happened? They poke the seam and rip the can open?

I had something like that happened with a can of gold spray paint
once. It was on the floor ,behind something else. Not knowing it was
there, I knocked someti=thing bag and sharp off of a bench, and was
amazed when every thing in my line of sight near the floor magically
turned to gold in an instant. THought there was something seriously
wrong with my eyes for a moment.


jk

Good idea - upside down from the all metal end. Have the can resting up-side-down
for a good while to help drain stuff and keep the Freon system clean.

I might just do that myself - needing it also.

Martin
Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder



B.B. wrote:
In article ,
Grant Erwin wrote:


Is there any safe way to open a still-pressurized can of spray paint with a
completely plugged nozzle, to get the paint out so I can brush it on?

How about if I made a tool e.g. drilled a small hole in a Popsicle stick or
tongue depressor, turned the can upside down, removed the nozzle, and
depressed
the valve stem with the hole aligned? Maybe the air would all come out and
leave
the paint inside, then I could cut it open any way I wanted reasonably safely.

Ideas? Experience?

GWE


How about a freon can tap? You know, the clamp-on type with a barbed
needle to pierce the side of the can. Usually come with a shim or two
for various sizes of cans. I think it can get small enough to grab a
spray paint can. Do it up high to vent the pressure instead of the
paint.
And yes, this article just appeared on my news spool today. Weird.


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