"Old Salty Frog" wrote in message
...
While mounting and seting up my window framing around
the air conditioning unit (window mount type unit) I slipped
with the elec. drill and put 1/16" hole in the copper tubing.
Of course, the refrigerant leaked all out. Is my air conditioner
ruined? Since this portion of the copper tube where I accidently
put the hole into is easily accesable, can I solder it? Can the
unit be refilled with refrigerant? This unit is a FEEDERS model
A2Q10F2BG, type Q, SKU#401-183

Thanks

Gill

Call a pro and have it silver soldered, replace the dryer if there is one.
put a vaccum pump on it to see if it will hold then refill it.

"SQLit" wrote in message
news:xcNpc.30063$%o1.12716@lakeread03...

"Old Salty Frog" wrote in message
...
While mounting and seting up my window framing around
the air conditioning unit (window mount type unit) I slipped
with the elec. drill and put 1/16" hole in the copper tubing.
Of course, the refrigerant leaked all out. Is my air conditioner
ruined? Since this portion of the copper tube where I accidently
put the hole into is easily accesable, can I solder it? Can the
unit be refilled with refrigerant? This unit is a FEEDERS model
A2Q10F2BG, type Q, SKU#401-183

Thanks

Gill

Call a pro and have it silver soldered, replace the dryer if there is one.
put a vaccum pump on it to see if it will hold then refill it.


Sure it can be repaired, but with the labor rates as they are the AC is
probably junk. Either spend $200 for a new one or pay someone $200 to repair
it.Your choice!
Greg

While mounting and seting up my window framing around
the air conditioning unit (window mount type unit) I slipped
with the elec. drill and put 1/16" hole in the copper tubing.
Of course, the refrigerant leaked all out. Is my air conditioner
ruined? Since this portion of the copper tube where I accidently
put the hole into is easily accesable, can I solder it? Can the
unit be refilled with refrigerant? This unit is a FEEDERS model
A2Q10F2BG, type Q, SKU#401-183

Thanks

Gill

"Old Salty Frog" wrote in message ...
While mounting and seting up my window framing around
the air conditioning unit (window mount type unit) I slipped
with the elec. drill and put 1/16" hole in the copper tubing.
Of course, the refrigerant leaked all out. Is my air conditioner
ruined? Since this portion of the copper tube where I accidently
put the hole into is easily accesable, can I solder it? Can the
unit be refilled with refrigerant? This unit is a FEEDERS model
A2Q10F2BG, type Q, SKU#401-183

Thanks

Gill

This is Turtle.

You will have to look at the cost to repair verses the cost of the Window unit. Boosty Cottongin here fixes them for $95.00 to
$135.00 total cost on 6K btu to the 24K btu. and if you only paid this to buy it. Weight of the cost and see. If the repairs was
made by a respectiable hvac repair service. This would not violate the warrenty.

Fixing it your self would be a ideal but you need the proper tools to do it right.

TURTLE


---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.681 / Virus Database: 443 - Release Date: 5/10/2004

"Old Salty Frog" wrote in message ...
Hi,

While mounting and seting up my window framing around
the air conditioning unit (window mount type unit) I slipped
with the elec. drill and put 1/16" hole in the copper tubing.

Hope you where not trying to add some drain holes to the unit!

Of course, the refrigerant leaked all out. Is my air conditioner
ruined?

Not healthy

Since this portion of the copper tube where I accidently
put the hole into is easily accesable, can I solder it? Can the
unit be refilled with refrigerant? This unit is a FEEDERS model
A2Q10F2BG, type Q, SKU#401-183

The hole would be covered up with something stronger than regular
solder since the operating and static pressures in the window a/c are
super high. Take the unit to local repair shop for an est. Hope the
unit was not ran with a hole in the tubing as this could damage the
compressor. This type of work would probably start out around
$100-150.00
The repair would be to weld up the hole, flush out the tubing inside,
add access valves, evacuate the system and recharge if you other leaks
are found.

jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/

Thanks for responding Jeff

No the unit was not running and therefore the compressor is saved.
I did not know that you have to ad access valves. Well maybe I'll
forget the repair all together..........Now, does any one know how
to make a small air compressing unit out of this mistake so that
I can recoupe from my clumsy mistake.

Gill



The hole would be covered up with something stronger than regular
solder since the operating and static pressures in the window a/c are
super high. Take the unit to local repair shop for an est. Hope the
unit was not ran with a hole in the tubing as this could damage the
compressor. This type of work would probably start out around
$100-150.00
The repair would be to weld up the hole, flush out the tubing inside,
add access valves, evacuate the system and recharge if you other leaks
are found.

jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/

Thanks for responding Jeff

No the unit was not running and therefore the compressor is saved.
I did not know that you have to ad access valves. Well maybe I'll
forget the repair all together..........Now, does any one know how
to make a small air compressing unit out of this mistake so that
I can recoupe from my clumsy mistake.

Gill


Hope you where not trying to add some drain holes to the unit!

Of course, the refrigerant leaked all out. Is my air conditioner
ruined?

Not healthy

The hole would be covered up with something stronger than regular
solder since the operating and static pressures in the window a/c are
super high. Take the unit to local repair shop for an est. Hope the
unit was not ran with a hole in the tubing as this could damage the
compressor. This type of work would probably start out around
$100-150.00
The repair would be to weld up the hole, flush out the tubing inside,
add access valves, evacuate the system and recharge if you other leaks
are found.

jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/

"Old Salty Frog" wrote in message
...
While mounting and seting up my window framing around
the air conditioning unit (window mount type unit) I slipped
with the elec. drill and put 1/16" hole in the copper tubing.
Of course, the refrigerant leaked all out. Is my air conditioner
ruined? Since this portion of the copper tube where I accidently
put the hole into is easily accesable, can I solder it? Can the
unit be refilled with refrigerant? This unit is a FEEDERS model
A2Q10F2BG, type Q, SKU#401-183

Thanks

Gill



Toss it.

By the time you have the hole silver filled, the units coil flushed out to
remove any copper shavings that will clog the metering device, a service
port added, a vac placed on teh unit, and a recharge, you can go buy a new
one...easy.

Old Salty Frog writes:

Is my air conditioner
ruined? Since this portion of the copper tube where I accidently
put the hole into is easily accesable, can I solder it?

I am just an armature, but I have done many such repairs successfully.
Applying a vacuum and weighing in the charge require the costly tools. But
both of these can be improvised cheaply with R-134a if you're motivated and
assuming you can handle the soldering or brazing.

If it's a small hole in the copper tube you might even get by clamping on a
piece of rubber. Back in the 1970s we'd repair leaky rubber A/C hoses on
cars with tire patches clamped with hose clamps; lasted longer than an
expensive new hose. In your case you'd still need to solder on an access
fitting, though.

If you're motivated, and the unit is just junk otherwise, might be worth a
try.

"Richard J Kinch" wrote in message
. ..
Old Salty Frog writes:

Is my air conditioner
ruined? Since this portion of the copper tube where I accidently
put the hole into is easily accesable, can I solder it?

I am just an armature, but I have done many such repairs successfully.
Applying a vacuum and weighing in the charge require the costly tools.

Lets see...
You cant buy SilPhos by the stick, so thats a pound at $45.
OxyAcyt torch, another 350.
manifold that is accurate, another 150.
scale thats accurate: another 350 to 600
vac pump, on sale 275
micron gauge, on sale, 150
flush, 75
ports, 5.00 each
nitrogen tank, with regulator, 250
R22, at least 90




But
both of these can be improvised cheaply with R-134a if you're motivated
and
assuming you can handle the soldering or brazing.


No, it cant.

134a and R22 use different oils....and all you are doing by hacking a unit
with 134a is creating a situation that will be most costly when the
compressor locks up tight.
The metering device in a window unit is not set up for 134a and will not
cool near as well, or as efficient as 22...

In other words, you might think you have it fixed, but you do NOT.


If it's a small hole in the copper tube you might even get by clamping on
a
piece of rubber. Back in the 1970s we'd repair leaky rubber A/C hoses on
cars with tire patches clamped with hose clamps; lasted longer than an
expensive new hose. In your case you'd still need to solder on an access
fitting, though.

Sigh...R12 units and R22 units here...pressures are a bit different...
That advice is not EPA approved either.

If you're motivated, and the unit is just junk otherwise, might be worth a
try.

Not really..its called illegal...sure...no ones gonna catch him...no ones
gonna report him...but illegal it is.

*CBHVAC* writes:

You cant buy SilPhos by the stick, so thats a pound at $45.
OxyAcyt torch, another 350.
manifold that is accurate, another 150.
scale thats accurate: another 350 to 600
vac pump, on sale 275
micron gauge, on sale, 150
flush, 75
ports, 5.00 each
nitrogen tank, with regulator, 250
R22, at least 90

That's the right kit for the job. But you can improvise certain repairs
without most of it.

My suggestion was conditional on this being an R-134a unit, not R-22, which
would allow repeated filling and venting instead of vacuuming, obviating
the need for all that equipment.

You're correct that it would be illegal these days with R-22 and less
likely to succeed with R-22 pressures. Although my tire patches back in
the 1970s worked fine on 300 psi R-12 high-side lines.

"Richard J Kinch" wrote in message
. ..
*CBHVAC* writes:

You cant buy SilPhos by the stick, so thats a pound at $45.
OxyAcyt torch, another 350.
manifold that is accurate, another 150.
scale thats accurate: another 350 to 600
vac pump, on sale 275
micron gauge, on sale, 150
flush, 75
ports, 5.00 each
nitrogen tank, with regulator, 250
R22, at least 90

That's the right kit for the job. But you can improvise certain repairs
without most of it.

And that was my point..there is getting it to work, and getting it to work
right.


My suggestion was conditional on this being an R-134a unit, not R-22,
which
would allow repeated filling and venting instead of vacuuming, obviating
the need for all that equipment.

134a falls under the same guidelines as any other refrigerant, other than
currently an EPA card is not required (well..it IS, but thats if you read
the law and take it letter for letter, and no one does.) to buy 134a.
BTW..havent seen but a few 134a units...most under 9000BTUs.


You're correct that it would be illegal these days with R-22 and less
likely to succeed with R-22 pressures. Although my tire patches back in
the 1970s worked fine on 300 psi R-12 high-side lines.

300PSI....on R12? Hummm....cant remember ever seeing a pressure that high on
a R12 system...unless of course, the ambient was over 115F, the underhood
was over 300, AND the metering device was clogged with an engine rpm over
2500...with the cooling fan blocked..
But hey...its possible...unlikely...but possible.
Gonna have to go look on the Cuda about midday tomorrow, and see what shes
running..

Richard J Kinch wrote:
*CBHVAC* writes:


You cant buy SilPhos by the stick, so thats a pound at $45.
OxyAcyt torch, another 350.
manifold that is accurate, another 150.
scale thats accurate: another 350 to 600
vac pump, on sale 275
micron gauge, on sale, 150
flush, 75
ports, 5.00 each
nitrogen tank, with regulator, 250
R22, at least 90


That's the right kit for the job. But you can improvise certain repairs
without most of it.

My suggestion was conditional on this being an R-134a unit, not R-22, which
would allow repeated filling and venting instead of vacuuming, obviating
the need for all that equipment.

"Obviating the need for.." ???


RB

You're correct that it would be illegal these days with R-22 and less
likely to succeed with R-22 pressures. Although my tire patches back in
the 1970s worked fine on 300 psi R-12 high-side lines.

*CBHVAC* writes:

Although my tire patches back in
the 1970s worked fine on 300 psi R-12 high-side lines.

300PSI....on R12? Hummm....cant remember ever seeing a pressure that
high on a R12 system..

Right, high 100s to low 200s seemed typical gauge pressures. I was
thinking of the ratings printed on the hoses.

*CBHVAC* writes:

134a falls under the same guidelines as any other refrigerant, other than
currently an EPA card is not required (well..it IS, but thats if you read
the law and take it letter for letter, and no one does.) to buy 134a.

How does the airsoft hobby get away with selling it as propellant? And
disposable dusters?

"Richard J Kinch" wrote in message
. ..
*CBHVAC* writes:

134a falls under the same guidelines as any other refrigerant, other
than
currently an EPA card is not required (well..it IS, but thats if you
read
the law and take it letter for letter, and no one does.) to buy 134a.

How does the airsoft hobby get away with selling it as propellant? And
disposable dusters?

Same way AutoZone and Advance and such get away with it....I have to go back
and check, its been a while for the MVAC stuff..but 134a has a loophole in
the regs.

Also, you mentioned that you could vent 134a..that you cant..I missed that
before. Not a big deal, but that much I remember..

*CBHVAC* writes:

Also, you mentioned that you could vent 134a..that you cant..I missed
that before. Not a big deal, but that much I remember..

The EPA sayeth:

http://www.epa.gov/ozone/title6/608/subrecsm.html

My interp:

Section 608 originially prohibited CFC venting, not 134a. The EPA added
a 134a non-venting rule in 1998 based on junk science of alleged "global
warming potential". For some reason, the EPA did not choose to apply
the same thought process to ammonia, CO2, methane, or nitrogen, against
which 134a is ridiculously inconsequential, even if you believe the junk
science. The EPA still mercifully permits flatulence, for now. No
doubt they are working on licensing, to be followed by phase-out.

Observation: 134a is widely sold to be vented, such as toy propellants
("airsoft") and dusters.

How is this?

The rule sez, "Releases of HFCs and PFCs that are not used as
refrigerants" are exempt!?

So spew all the billions of pounds you like. Just don't let it change
phase more than once.

It is obvious the chief purpose of this regulation is to benefit the
HVAC trade, by creating still more barriers to entry (costly tooling and
certification) that increase prices and profits for those in the biz.

I happily note that they promise that with my ancient 608 license I will
be grandfathered to buy 134a when they get around to further "helping"
the HVAC biz by banning consumer sales, at least in my free state of
Florida; I think you mentioned North Carolina as jackbooting do-it-
yourselfers from buying anything related to HVAC, including cleaning
chemicals (although you never did cite an actual chemical substance that
was untouchable except for you high priests of HVAC).

Should be repairable. But most AC guys won't want to work on
window or wall AC. Sad to say, it may be a lot cheaper to go
to the big box stores, and buy a new AC.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"Old Salty Frog" wrote in message
...
While mounting and seting up my window framing around
the air conditioning unit (window mount type unit) I slipped
with the elec. drill and put 1/16" hole in the copper
tubing.
Of course, the refrigerant leaked all out. Is my air
conditioner
ruined? Since this portion of the copper tube where I
accidently
put the hole into is easily accesable, can I solder it? Can
the
unit be refilled with refrigerant? This unit is a FEEDERS
model
A2Q10F2BG, type Q, SKU#401-183

Thanks

Gill

When you take the cover off, it oughta be clear where the
compressor is. There is a capacitor near the front, the big
one is for the compressor. Note the wiring, so you can get
it back together. The wires are usually through a hole, so
you need to unclip the wires off the cap and slip them
through the hole.

Couple nuts to hold the compressor down, and saw off the two
copper lines that hold the compressor.

The air compressor I use personally came out of a window AC.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"Old Salty Frog" wrote in message
...
Thanks for responding Jeff

No the unit was not running and therefore the compressor is
saved.
I did not know that you have to ad access valves. Well
maybe I'll
forget the repair all together..........Now, does any one
know how
to make a small air compressing unit out of this mistake so
that
I can recoupe from my clumsy mistake.

Gill

Mighta worked on rubber AC hoses, but I doubt it will do
much good on copper.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"Richard J Kinch" wrote in message
. ..
Old Salty Frog writes:

If it's a small hole in the copper tube you might even get
by clamping on a
piece of rubber. Back in the 1970s we'd repair leaky rubber
A/C hoses on
cars with tire patches clamped with hose clamps; lasted
longer than an
expensive new hose. In your case you'd still need to solder
on an access
fitting, though.

The two freons aren't interchangable. They use much
different pressures, and flow rates.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"Richard J Kinch" wrote in message
. ..


My suggestion was conditional on this being an R-134a unit,
not R-22, which
would allow repeated filling and venting instead of
vacuuming, obviating
the need for all that equipment.

You're correct that it would be illegal these days with R-22
and less
likely to succeed with R-22 pressures.

Stormin Mormon writes:

The two freons aren't interchangable. They use much
different pressures, and flow rates.

Right. That's why I conditioned my advice on it on being one, not the
other.

Stormin Mormon writes:

Mighta worked on rubber AC hoses, but I doubt it will do
much good on copper.

A 1/16" hole in a 300 psi line requires less than a pound of force to seal.
well within the capabilities of a scrap of rubber convered with a hose
clamp.

Another technique is to whip with copper wire and then solder.

Analysis and improvisation work when the "correct" stuff isn't at hand, or
too costly, often better. Many factory parts are cost-reduced to bare
minimum performance for the task, and you can cobble up something stronger
than the original.

I did a line repair one time on something inside a reach in
cooler. Cut open a length of ACR tubing, and put that around
the bad part. Dribble some solder in, and it held. I didn't
think of wrapping with copper wire, and then solder. Thanks
for an interesting idea.

I susepct the copper plug will leak enough to be a problem,
though.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"Richard J Kinch" wrote in message
. ..
Stormin Mormon writes:

Mighta worked on rubber AC hoses, but I doubt it will do
much good on copper.

A 1/16" hole in a 300 psi line requires less than a pound of
force to seal.
well within the capabilities of a scrap of rubber convered
with a hose
clamp.

Another technique is to whip with copper wire and then
solder.

Analysis and improvisation work when the "correct" stuff
isn't at hand, or
too costly, often better. Many factory parts are
cost-reduced to bare
minimum performance for the task, and you can cobble up
something stronger
than the original.

I put a small screw hole in my window air conditioner coil. Can it be fixed inexpensively. Just bought at pawn shop $50.00. I'm on a budget, retired. I can't believe I did that. Wasn't thinking not used to window units never had before. Lol Help Please...
THANK YOU
Paula

On Wednesday, June 19, 2019 at 9:42:59 AM UTC-4, wrote:
I put a small screw hole in my window air conditioner coil. Can it be fixed inexpensively. Just bought at pawn shop $50.00. I'm on a budget, retired.. I can't believe I did that. Wasn't thinking not used to window units never had before. Lol Help Please...
THANK YOU
Paula

Junk it. You can get a new 5K BTU unit for $100, 8K for $150.
It would cost in that range just for an hour of labor to screw with
yours and it's a complicated repair, if even possible.

BTW, I assume when you drilled the hole, you heard Pssssst?
In other words, are you sure you actually punctured it?

On 6/19/2019 9:42 AM, wrote:
I put a small screw hole in my window air conditioner coil. Can it be fixed inexpensively. Just bought at pawn shop $50.00. I'm on a budget, retired. I can't believe I did that. Wasn't thinking not used to window units never had before. Lol Help Please...
THANK YOU
Paula


OMG!

You released some CFC/HCFCs s into the atmosphere and now the chlorine is on its way to the stratosphere to destroy the ozone layer.

You better hope an environmental whacko doesn't rat you out to the EPA.


--
Get off my lawn!

On 6/19/2019 10:18 AM, Grumpy Old White Guy wrote:
On 6/19/2019 9:42 AM, wrote:
I put a small screw hole in my window air conditioner coil. Can it be
fixed inexpensively. Just bought at pawn shop $50.00. I'm on a
budget, retired. I can't believe I did that. Wasn't thinking not used
to window units never had before.Â* Lol Help Please...
THANK YOU
Paula


OMG!

You released some CFC/HCFCs s into the atmosphere and now the chlorine
is on its way to the stratosphere to destroy the ozone layer.

You better hope an environmental whacko doesn't rat you out to the EPA.



Â* Not only that , but the cost to repair the hole and recharge the
system is likely to be more than finding another used unit . And
definitely more than you paid for this one .

--
Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety - and armed .
Get outta my woods !

On 6/19/2019 9:42 AM, wrote:
I put a small screw hole in my window air conditioner coil. Can it be fixed inexpensively. Just bought at pawn shop $50.00. I'm on a budget, retired. I can't believe I did that. Wasn't thinking not used to window units never had before. Lol Help Please...
THANK YOU
Paula


Probably cost more to repair than to buy a new one. Braze the hole
closed, purge with nitrogen, draw a vacuum for a couple of hours, then
charge.

Won't help you any, but every years people ask here about the same
thing. Most drill the bottom to drain better and go through the coil.
You are not alone.

Head to WalMart or Lowes, etc.

In article , says...

* Not only that , but the cost to repair the hole and recharge the
system is likely to be more than finding another used unit . And
definitely more than you paid for this one .




The repair is simple and inexpensive. It is the labor that will eat you
up. Way more than what you paid for the unit. That is if you can find
someone to do the job. Proably more than some of the newer units.

Most small AC units do not have valves where they can be recharged easy,
so to add them on or work around that takes lots of time.

On Wednesday, June 19, 2019 at 1:11:55 PM UTC-4, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article , says...

Â* Not only that , but the cost to repair the hole and recharge the
system is likely to be more than finding another used unit . And
definitely more than you paid for this one .




The repair is simple and inexpensive. It is the labor that will eat you
up. Way more than what you paid for the unit. That is if you can find
someone to do the job. Proably more than some of the newer units.

Most small AC units do not have valves where they can be recharged easy,
so to add them on or work around that takes lots of time.

I would not be sure about how easy it is to solder or weld whatever
cheap alloy, probably aluminum, that a cheap window AC uses. And that
assumes that it's accessible. Even if you have the coil exposed,
the damage could extend into part of the folded up coil that you
can't get to.

On 6/19/2019 12:11 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article , says...
* Not only that , but the cost to repair the hole and recharge the
system is likely to be more than finding another used unit . And
definitely more than you paid for this one .



The repair is simple and inexpensive. It is the labor that will eat you
up. Way more than what you paid for the unit. That is if you can find
someone to do the job. Proably more than some of the newer units.

Most small AC units do not have valves where they can be recharged easy,
so to add them on or work around that takes lots of time.




* Oh I agree , for you or me the repair would be simple and easy , you
also probably have everything on hand except a pair of tap-a-lines . And
since the system is empty , you could just use braze-in Schrader valves
.. But the OP is apparently not equipped to do this and you're right ,
labor will eat them alive .

--
Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety - and armed .
Get outta my woods !