I have a approximately 20x30 space for my shop. I've been working on
designing where all the tools will go, and would like some feedback on the
design.

A couple notes:
- The grinder, sander, and drill press will be separated and placed along
the back wall. I just didn't bother adding stands.
- I plan on building a bench in the upper left hand corner (next to the
ladder), but haven't gotten around to modeling it yet.
- The "plywood storage" is a large assembly table with storage underneath.

http://puckdroppersplace.us/other/garage.jpg

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

On 06/03/2010 06:18 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
I have a approximately 20x30 space for my shop. I've been working on
designing where all the tools will go, and would like some feedback on the
design.

A couple notes:
- The grinder, sander, and drill press will be separated and placed along
the back wall. I just didn't bother adding stands.
- I plan on building a bench in the upper left hand corner (next to the
ladder), but haven't gotten around to modeling it yet.
- The "plywood storage" is a large assembly table with storage underneath.

http://puckdroppersplace.us/other/garage.jpg

Puckdropper

This might help:

http://grizzly.com/workshopplanner.aspx

On Jun 3, 9:43*am, Doug Winterburn wrote:
On 06/03/2010 06:18 AM, Puckdropper wrote:

I have a approximately 20x30 space for my shop. *I've been working on
designing where all the tools will go, and would like some feedback on the
design.

A couple notes:
- The grinder, sander, and drill press will be separated and placed along
the back wall. *I just didn't bother adding stands.
- I plan on building a bench in the upper left hand corner (next to the
ladder), but haven't gotten around to modeling it yet.
- The "plywood storage" is a large assembly table with storage underneath.

http://puckdroppersplace.us/other/garage.jpg

Puckdropper

This might help:

http://grizzly.com/workshopplanner.aspx

That's an "interesting" layout in the Grizzly example.

A full-fledged fireplace, with a hearth, in a workshop?

A laundry room/bathroom sticking into the shop?

Use a wood stove instead and flatten the laundry room against a wall.

2 OT questions:

How common are laundry room/bathroom combinations these days?

How many people let their dogs hang out in their shops? (look in front
of the fireplace)

On 03 Jun 2010 13:18:48 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote the following:

I have a approximately 20x30 space for my shop. I've been working on
designing where all the tools will go, and would like some feedback on the
design.

A couple notes:
- The grinder, sander, and drill press will be separated and placed along
the back wall. I just didn't bother adding stands.
- I plan on building a bench in the upper left hand corner (next to the
ladder), but haven't gotten around to modeling it yet.
- The "plywood storage" is a large assembly table with storage underneath.

http://puckdroppersplace.us/other/garage.jpg

Oy vay! That's a _steep_ entrance you have into your shop, Pucky.

I think I'd prefer the workbench where the plywood storage area is now
and put the storage on the wall. YMMV.

--
It is not the strongest of the species that survives, nor
the most intelligent, but the one most responsive to change.
-- Charles Darwin

On 6/3/2010 8:18 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
I have a approximately 20x30 space for my shop. I've been working on
designing where all the tools will go, and would like some feedback on the
design.

A couple notes:
- The grinder, sander, and drill press will be separated and placed along
the back wall. I just didn't bother adding stands.
- I plan on building a bench in the upper left hand corner (next to the
ladder), but haven't gotten around to modeling it yet.
- The "plywood storage" is a large assembly table with storage underneath.

http://puckdroppersplace.us/other/garage.jpg

Puckdropper

Pretty pictures are for the women and their kitchens. This is a
workshop man. You don't design a workshop unless you plan on
installing drapes in the thing. Puckdropper???? You must play in a
girls league.

Tools have to be arranged for practical reasons not to look good on a
drawing. Put all the large tools on casters so that you can rearrange
things as required, if required.

Once you've made a few yards of sawdust with each of those machines
you'll know where they belong. As it sits now your probably going to
have to move something to cut up a sheet of plywood. That will be
after you have had to move the storage table so that you could get the
plywood out in the first place. Remember that a sheet of plywood is 4
x 8 but you still need a few extra feet of space to fit your ass in.
Where's the barrel for all the scrap pieces that are too good to throw
away?

LdB

On Jun 3, 6:18*am, Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:
I have a approximately 20x30 space for my shop. *I've been working on
designing where all the tools will go, and would like some feedback on the
design.
y

I would have put my cutoff saw along the longest (back) wall.

It seems the jointer\planer would be in the way of you are breaking
down full sheets of ply but maybe not if they are low enough

If you start much with rough lumber then I would suggest a good
triangle of jointer, planer, table saw.

- Joint one face of each piece and stack convenient to planer
- Plane opposite face stacking back by jointer
- Run one edge on jointer, stacking by TS
- Rip other edge of each piece for final square up.

"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
...
I have a approximately 20x30 space for my shop. I've been working on
designing where all the tools will go, and would like some feedback on the
design.

A couple notes:
- The grinder, sander, and drill press will be separated and placed along
the back wall. I just didn't bother adding stands.
- I plan on building a bench in the upper left hand corner (next to the
ladder), but haven't gotten around to modeling it yet.
- The "plywood storage" is a large assembly table with storage underneath.

http://puckdroppersplace.us/other/garage.jpg

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.




Does anyone think that the DC might be moved closer to where it will be
used?
Bill

Bill wrote:
....

Does anyone think that the DC might be moved closer to where it will be
used?

'Pends on how big it is, air flow capacity-wise...

--

Doug Winterburn wrote in
:


This might help:

http://grizzly.com/workshopplanner.aspx

I started with that, and found Grizzly doesn't have any CMS on there at
all. Since it's one of my most used tools, I had to switch to something
else.

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

Larry Jaques wrote in
:

On 03 Jun 2010 13:18:48 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote the following:

I have a approximately 20x30 space for my shop. I've been working on
designing where all the tools will go, and would like some feedback on
the design.

*trim*

http://puckdroppersplace.us/other/garage.jpg

Oy vay! That's a _steep_ entrance you have into your shop, Pucky.

I think I'd prefer the workbench where the plywood storage area is now
and put the storage on the wall. YMMV.


The workbench area is already set up with pegboard, so it's a natural
spot for a decent bench. It would be a nice spot for wood storage
otherwise, though.

The door in the corner is at ground level, the ladder's just there for
storage and access to storage above the utility room.

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

"dadiOH" wrote in
news:GJPNn.29943$J52.29712@hurricane:

Puckdropper wrote:
I have a approximately 20x30 space for my shop. I've been working on
designing where all the tools will go, and would like some feedback
on the design.

A couple notes:
- The grinder, sander, and drill press will be separated and placed
along the back wall. I just didn't bother adding stands.
- I plan on building a bench in the upper left hand corner (next to
the ladder), but haven't gotten around to modeling it yet.
- The "plywood storage" is a large assembly table with storage
underneath.

We all need to arrange things to suit what we do and how we do it.
For me, I would NOT want the "large assembly table with storage
underneath". Here's why...

1. It is best to store sheet goods flat. Doing so virtually
guarantees that the sheet you want will be on the bottom. I built one
similar to this...

http://www.rd.com/images/tfhimport/2...age/20000901_G
arage_Storage_page008img001_size2.jpg

a couple of years ago. Mine doesn't have the small vertical spaces,
just two 12" wide full length ones. I keep full sheets on one side
and (mostly) cut pieces on the other. It has worked out well.

That looks like a better option, thanks. I've needed to work something
out for plywood cut offs, and it looks like that'll take care of those
needs.

2. For the stuff I make (cabinets, tables, desks, etc.), a table that
size for assembly would be too big to be convenient, lots of extra
walking, maybe hard to clamp stuff down where you want to clamp. My
solution was a pair of tables, each 36" high, 48" long, 12" wide, on
casters, tray in the bottom. I can use them together for either a wide
surface or a long narrow one. They are also useful to hold a pile of
stuff I am sawing or otherwise machining.
______________


I'm also a little worried about the horizontal surface curse. The mobile
stands could also be used as infeed/outfeed support for sawing
operations.

Good idea, thanks!


You need to plan a spot for lumber storage. A rack on the bottom wall
would work, looks like you could put both it and plywood there. FWIW,
here is a link to a zip of pix and instructions for mine.
http://mysite.verizon.net/xico/pix/lumber_rack.zip



I was looking at something similar in the Woodcraft catalog yesterday.
I'm debating whether or not there'd be room for narrow board storage
behind the door (with the door open at 90-100 deg).

Not shown is a small bin under the SCMS for "stick storage."

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

LdB wrote in
m:

On 6/3/2010 8:18 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
I have a approximately 20x30 space for my shop. I've been working on
designing where all the tools will go, and would like some feedback
on the design.

A couple notes:
- The grinder, sander, and drill press will be separated and placed
along the back wall. I just didn't bother adding stands.
- I plan on building a bench in the upper left hand corner (next to
the ladder), but haven't gotten around to modeling it yet.
- The "plywood storage" is a large assembly table with storage
underneath.

http://puckdroppersplace.us/other/garage.jpg

Puckdropper

Pretty pictures are for the women and their kitchens. This is a
workshop man. You don't design a workshop unless you plan on
installing drapes in the thing. Puckdropper???? You must play in a
girls league.

It's not my fault the picture looks nice. :-p It is a diagram, using the
computer to check for clearances and such. You're right about the
plywood storage, but I think there's access to pull a full sheet out from
there...

Tools have to be arranged for practical reasons not to look good on a
drawing. Put all the large tools on casters so that you can rearrange
things as required, if required.

How do you put dust collection drops on casters?

Once you've made a few yards of sawdust with each of those machines
you'll know where they belong. As it sits now your probably going to
have to move something to cut up a sheet of plywood. That will be
after you have had to move the storage table so that you could get the
plywood out in the first place. Remember that a sheet of plywood is 4
x 8 but you still need a few extra feet of space to fit your ass in.
Where's the barrel for all the scrap pieces that are too good to throw
away?

LdB


The TS has a 6' "working clearance" front and back, with the space to
adjust either end to 8'. Since it's on casters that's an easy thing to
do.

I haven't quite figured out where the tall scrap bin is going to go. The
shorter pieces can be stored under the CMS, but the taller ones need more
height. It's penciled in for the corner by the bench, but I think it'll
be too far away to be useful.

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in
:

On Jun 3, 6:18*am, Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:
I have a approximately 20x30 space for my shop. *I've been working on
designing where all the tools will go, and would like some feedback
on th
e
design.
y

I would have put my cutoff saw along the longest (back) wall.

My CMS sticks out behind the bench a good 12-16", so I didn't want to get
it up against the wall and have the whole table that far off the wall. I
may be able to make it wider and place a few of the smaller power tools
there.

It seems the jointer\planer would be in the way of you are breaking
down full sheets of ply but maybe not if they are low enough

I think the jointer bed is low enough (but I haven't assembled it yet.)
If I rip first, I'll need only 24" on the side of the blade for breaking
down plywood.

If you start much with rough lumber then I would suggest a good
triangle of jointer, planer, table saw.

- Joint one face of each piece and stack convenient to planer
- Plane opposite face stacking back by jointer
- Run one edge on jointer, stacking by TS
- Rip other edge of each piece for final square up.


That's essentially what I've got. The only problem is the TS is turned
around for it to be really conveinent. The jointer infeed is on the TS
side, while the planer infeed is on the jointer's outfeed side.

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

dpb wrote in :

Bill wrote:
...

Does anyone think that the DC might be moved closer to where it will be
used?

'Pends on how big it is, air flow capacity-wise...

--


It's a Clearvue Cyclone. With the recommended 6" ducts it ought to be
enough to suck up everything it needs to.

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

On Thu, 3 Jun 2010 16:15:28 -0400, "Bill"
wrote the following:


"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
.. .
I have a approximately 20x30 space for my shop. I've been working on
designing where all the tools will go, and would like some feedback on the
design.

A couple notes:
- The grinder, sander, and drill press will be separated and placed along
the back wall. I just didn't bother adding stands.
- I plan on building a bench in the upper left hand corner (next to the
ladder), but haven't gotten around to modeling it yet.
- The "plywood storage" is a large assembly table with storage underneath.

http://puckdroppersplace.us/other/garage.jpg

Does anyone think that the DC might be moved closer to where it will be
used?

Sure, Bill, but we were going to wait until he showed us the spaghetti
he put up to the machines from the DC before hammering him on it.

--
It is not the strongest of the species that survives, nor
the most intelligent, but the one most responsive to change.
-- Charles Darwin

Larry Jaques wrote in
:

On Thu, 3 Jun 2010 16:15:28 -0400, "Bill"
wrote the following:

Does anyone think that the DC might be moved closer to where it will
be used?

Sure, Bill, but we were going to wait until he showed us the spaghetti
he put up to the machines from the DC before hammering him on it.


It's bucatini and macaroni. Spaghetti isn't hollow. ;-)

Actually, I was planning on running a main trunk on the ceiling to the
planer/jointer/table saw, having another drop for SCMS, and running a line
along the back wall for that. Simple and straight.

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

Actually, I was planning on running a main trunk on the ceiling to the
planer/jointer/table saw, having another drop for SCMS, and running a line
along the back wall for that. *Simple and straight.

I have a DC that uses 6" pipe also. I to use pvc to avoid the cost on
complexity of metal piping. Was indeed worried about static sparks,
etc. I did a lot of reading and ended up using 6" irrigation grade
pvc, can't recall schedule. I also applied metal tape along the
length, inside and out, even through the fittings so I have ground
running from every machine all the way to the DC. I have never even
had dust cling to the outside or ever seen a spark or any evidence of
static build up.

On Jun 4, 11:26*am, "SonomaProducts.com" wrote:
Actually, I was planning on running a main trunk on the ceiling to the
planer/jointer/table saw, having another drop for SCMS, and running a line
along the back wall for that. *Simple and straight.

I have a DC that uses 6" pipe also. I to use pvc to avoid the cost on
complexity of metal piping. Was indeed worried about static sparks,
etc. I did a lot of reading and ended up using 6" irrigation grade
pvc, can't recall schedule. I also applied metal tape along the
length, inside and out, even through the fittings so I have ground
running from every machine all the way to the DC. I have never even
had dust cling to the outside or ever seen a spark or any evidence of
static build up.

I would use 6" PVC (drainage stuff is far cheaper) but the fittings
are confusing. How does one get from 6" PVC to 4" & 2.5" DC ports?
It seems everything has a different "standard", including DC ports
themselves.

On 6/3/2010 4:43 PM, Puckdropper wrote:


How do you put dust collection drops on casters?

I extended my garage door tracks so that they run across the shop. I
put a few long pipes across the tracks that can be pushed back and
forth along the entire length of the garage door tracks and
extensions. Think along the lines of a drop ceiling, two main T's
with movable cross T's along their length.

I have a 4" flexible dust collector hose laying up there that drops
down and can be positioned anywhere within that side of the garage
area. I also have an extension cord modified to act as a dust
collector switch running along with the hose. I can position the
switch near the equipment that I'm using. The setup works like a
skyhook. Takes a minute or two to position the switch and hose but I
can set up equipment anywhere in that side of the garage and control
the dust collector from that spot as well. I'm going to add a second
hose up there one of these days for my drum sander. It's got two 4 "
dust collector connections and up to now I've just stretched the
second hose across the floor but that's not a particularly good idea.

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...597,62604&ap=1

LdB

wrote:
....

I would use 6" PVC (drainage stuff is far cheaper) but the fittings
are confusing. How does one get from 6" PVC to 4" & 2.5" DC ports?
It seems everything has a different "standard", including DC ports
themselves.

There are reducers and various fittings for the purpose...all the usual
mail order places are the likely culprits...

--

dpb wrote:
wrote:
...

I would use 6" PVC (drainage stuff is far cheaper) but the fittings
are confusing. How does one get from 6" PVC to 4" & 2.5" DC ports?
It seems everything has a different "standard", including DC ports
themselves.

There are reducers and various fittings for the purpose...all the usual
mail order places are the likely culprits...

Oh, and generally if one has 6" collector, one will run one a main trunk
and drop off for individual machines w/ reducing 'y' to 4" or whatever...

--

On Jun 4, 12:37*pm, dpb wrote:
dpb wrote:
wrote:
...

I would use 6" PVC (drainage stuff is far cheaper) but the fittings
are confusing. *How does one get from 6" PVC to 4" & 2.5" DC ports?
It seems everything has a different "standard", including DC ports
themselves.

There are reducers and various fittings for the purpose...all the usual
mail order places are the likely culprits...

Oh, and generally if one has 6" collector, one will run one a main trunk
and drop off for individual machines w/ reducing 'y' to 4" or whatever...

Yeah, I got that part (mine does have a 2x4"-to-6" 'Y' on its input),
but my point is that 4" DC parts aren't the same size as 4" PVC (and I
don't think drainage PVC is the same as waste PVC pipe) and indeed not
all 4" DC ports are exactly the same size (my saw and planer don't
take the same fittings). Flex hose makes up for a lot of sins but
it's also a lousy duct. To get things to fit I end up with 4x as many
parts as I need, just to get something that sorta works. Or not.

I would use 6" PVC (drainage stuff is far cheaper) but the fittings
are confusing. *How does one get from 6" PVC to 4" & 2.5" DC ports?
It seems everything has a different "standard", including DC ports
themselves.

Yeah, that's the stuff, 6" drainage, I just had to go to an irrigation
type store that specializes in sprinklers to find it. They had wye's
elbows and reducers also.

My research took me to this DC guru's site http://www.billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/index.cfm

He indicated to use 6" all the way to the machine if possible. I have
done that with my TS it works great. At my shaper I used a stock home
heating sheet metal box to transition from 6' round to 3 x 9 rectangle
and built a ply box. For my edge sander and oscillating (dildo) sander
I branched with a 6 x 4 sheet metal wye, again home heating type to
some 4x pvc, then flex and I just gate both together at the 6" so both
on or off to afford full air flow. Bill's contention that reduction
just restricts flow. In one location I reduce down to a single 4" for
my wide dbl drum sander.

wrote:
....

Yeah, I got that part (mine does have a 2x4"-to-6" 'Y' on its input),
but my point is that 4" DC parts aren't the same size as 4" PVC (and I
don't think drainage PVC is the same as waste PVC pipe) and indeed not
all 4" DC ports are exactly the same size (my saw and planer don't
take the same fittings). Flex hose makes up for a lot of sins but
it's also a lousy duct. To get things to fit I end up with 4x as many
parts as I need, just to get something that sorta works. Or not.

Hmmm....ok you're telling me I'm having (yet another) senior moment,
huh?

I've not rearranged or added anything for so long I couldn't even tell
you any more what I actually used (I think it's just standard Sch 40
PVC, though for the trunks/distribution lines) or where any of the end
adapter fittings, etc., came from originally; it all moved from TN back
to the farm when came back and I'm pretty sure at least some of the
original pieces predate the move from VA to TN in '78.

I don't _recall_ any particular difficulties, though...then again,
that's not surprising (not remembering something, that is, not that
there weren't difficulties...)

--

I see all sorts of answers :-)

I'd make the tool bench 2 to 3x longer. And deeper.

Consider what might be used on each machine.

A 3' disk being .... or a 24 / 36 " long ...

I think I'd swap the bench with the wood lathe.

I'd have more room to 'jump' backwards out of the way or step back...

A corner might trap more chips as well.

More closing storage. Lots of dust - even with a collector.

Martin

Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
"Our Republic and the Press will Rise or Fall Together": Joseph Pulitzer
TSRA: Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com/

On 6/3/2010 8:18 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
I have a approximately 20x30 space for my shop. I've been working on
designing where all the tools will go, and would like some feedback on the
design.

A couple notes:
- The grinder, sander, and drill press will be separated and placed along
the back wall. I just didn't bother adding stands.
- I plan on building a bench in the upper left hand corner (next to the
ladder), but haven't gotten around to modeling it yet.
- The "plywood storage" is a large assembly table with storage underneath.

http://puckdroppersplace.us/other/garage.jpg

Puckdropper

"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
...
I have a approximately 20x30 space for my shop. I've been working on
designing where all the tools will go, and would like some feedback on the
design.

A couple notes:
- The grinder, sander, and drill press will be separated and placed along
the back wall. I just didn't bother adding stands.
- I plan on building a bench in the upper left hand corner (next to the
ladder), but haven't gotten around to modeling it yet.
- The "plywood storage" is a large assembly table with storage underneath.

http://puckdroppersplace.us/other/garage.jpg

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

I am hoping to move into a shop later this year that will be marginally
smaller than your shop but I still plan to keep every thing on mobile bases.
I'll store most everything around the perimeter of the room in no particular
order and roll the machine out as needed. The dust collector and machines
that will work in any location will likely not be moved much but I will
still be bringing my wife's car in at night.

On 04 Jun 2010 04:39:43 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote the following:

Larry Jaques wrote in
:

On Thu, 3 Jun 2010 16:15:28 -0400, "Bill"
wrote the following:

Does anyone think that the DC might be moved closer to where it will
be used?

Sure, Bill, but we were going to wait until he showed us the spaghetti
he put up to the machines from the DC before hammering him on it.


It's bucatini and macaroni. Spaghetti isn't hollow. ;-)

I've never seen 6" macaroni (diameter OR length), so that must be the
bucatini.


Actually, I was planning on running a main trunk on the ceiling to the
planer/jointer/table saw, having another drop for SCMS, and running a line
along the back wall for that. Simple and straight.

OK.

All together now, guys: "BUT YOU'D BETTER GROUND IT!" schnicker

--
It is not the strongest of the species that survives, nor
the most intelligent, but the one most responsive to change.
-- Charles Darwin

On Fri, 04 Jun 2010 14:25:24 -0500, dpb wrote:

wrote:
...

Yeah, I got that part (mine does have a 2x4"-to-6" 'Y' on its input),
but my point is that 4" DC parts aren't the same size as 4" PVC (and I
don't think drainage PVC is the same as waste PVC pipe) and indeed not
all 4" DC ports are exactly the same size (my saw and planer don't
take the same fittings). Flex hose makes up for a lot of sins but
it's also a lousy duct. To get things to fit I end up with 4x as many
parts as I need, just to get something that sorta works. Or not.

Hmmm....ok you're telling me I'm having (yet another) senior moment,
huh?

Got me, but things never seem to go tougher like they're supposed to.

I've not rearranged or added anything for so long I couldn't even tell
you any more what I actually used (I think it's just standard Sch 40
PVC, though for the trunks/distribution lines) or where any of the end
adapter fittings, etc., came from originally; it all moved from TN back
to the farm when came back and I'm pretty sure at least some of the
original pieces predate the move from VA to TN in '78.

I don't _recall_ any particular difficulties, though...then again,
that's not surprising (not remembering something, that is, not that
there weren't difficulties...)

On the way home tonight I bought a 4" thin wall (drainage stuff) elbow to
play. It's *way* too big to fit anything connected to the DC. It looks like
PVC pipe has a 4" ID, the same as 4" flex hose.

How to get from the DC to a 4" piece of PVC pipe? They make PVC to DC
fittings, but that gets me from pipe to flex hose. I'd like to go solid pipe
from my DC to separator (three right angles and a little pipe) and from there
out, but can't figure out how to do it without flex somewhere in the middle.

zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
....

How to get from the DC to a 4" piece of PVC pipe? They make PVC to DC
fittings, but that gets me from pipe to flex hose. I'd like to go solid pipe
from my DC to separator (three right angles and a little pipe) and from there
out, but can't figure out how to do it without flex somewhere in the middle.

OK, I'll try to see if I can ascertain what I did use...I don't have any
flex except some metallic flex. It'll have to be some time next week as
planning on being gone over weekend...

What's your actual actual DC port dimensions you need to fit?

--

"Martin H. Eastburn" wrote in
:

I see all sorts of answers :-)

I'd make the tool bench 2 to 3x longer. And deeper.

Consider what might be used on each machine.

A 3' disk being .... or a 24 / 36 " long ...

I think I'd swap the bench with the wood lathe.

That's an interesting idea. It puts the TS, CMS, and bench all within
the same work area. (I've tend to use the CMS table as a bench anyway.)

I'd have more room to 'jump' backwards out of the way or step back...

A corner might trap more chips as well.

Hm... maybe that's a good place for a DC floor sweep drop.

More closing storage. Lots of dust - even with a collector.

Mobile tables, like dadiOH suggested, could be used for closing storage
and combined together for larger assemblies.

Martin

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

Larry Jaques wrote in
:

On 04 Jun 2010 04:39:43 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote the following:

Larry Jaques wrote in
m:

Sure, Bill, but we were going to wait until he showed us the
spaghetti he put up to the machines from the DC before hammering him
on it.


It's bucatini and macaroni. Spaghetti isn't hollow. ;-)

I've never seen 6" macaroni (diameter OR length), so that must be the
bucatini.

That would give a new name to "big pasta eater."


Actually, I was planning on running a main trunk on the ceiling to the
planer/jointer/table saw, having another drop for SCMS, and running a
line along the back wall for that. Simple and straight.

OK.

All together now, guys: "BUT YOU'D BETTER GROUND IT!" schnicker


But why? Why should I ground the dust collector? It's not like it's
going to ionize the dust cloud and set the shop on fire right???????????

I did ground the planer dust collection chute... after the 3rd board the
static shocks got to be too annoying.

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

Subject

If you don't plan to have available at least 8 ft in front and behind
the table saw and a minimum of 4 ft to the left of the blade when saw
is in use, sooner or later it will come back to bite you in the arse.

Lew

On 2010-06-04 20:28:40 -0400, Larry Jaques said:

I've never seen 6" macaroni (diameter OR length), so that must be the
bucatini.

Length is easy if you make your own pasta*; diameter is a bit more difficult.

*KitchenAid mixer w/ pasta attachments, and if your like your own
ground pork for sausage try the grinder attachment.

On Fri, 04 Jun 2010 20:52:29 -0500, dpb wrote:

wrote:
...

How to get from the DC to a 4" piece of PVC pipe? They make PVC to DC
fittings, but that gets me from pipe to flex hose. I'd like to go solid pipe
from my DC to separator (three right angles and a little pipe) and from there
out, but can't figure out how to do it without flex somewhere in the middle.

OK, I'll try to see if I can ascertain what I did use...I don't have any
flex except some metallic flex. It'll have to be some time next week as
planning on being gone over weekend...

What's your actual actual DC port dimensions you need to fit?

They're all over the place. Flex tubing and clamps make up for a lot of sins
but trying to connect anything solid to the things is iffy. I've even had
problems with quick disconnects, making them nearly useless.

Port measurements
Unisaw = 3.88" O.D.
DW735 = 3.95" O.D.
DC = 3.93" O.D. (4" port didn't measure the 6")

4" Thinwall PVC elbow = 4.26"

Some miscellaneous DC fittings:

4" to 2-1/2" reducer = 3.97"
90 degree elbow = 3.91"
DC - PVC connector = 3.93" O.D. 4.36" I.D.
"Y" = 4.00"
Blast gate = 3.97"
Male Coupling = 4.00"

zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Fri, 04 Jun 2010 20:52:29 -0500, dpb wrote:

zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
...

How to get from the DC to a 4" piece of PVC pipe? They make PVC to DC
fittings, but that gets me from pipe to flex hose. I'd like to go solid pipe
from my DC to separator (three right angles and a little pipe) and from there
out, but can't figure out how to do it without flex somewhere in the middle.
OK, I'll try to see if I can ascertain what I did use...I don't have any
flex except some metallic flex. It'll have to be some time next week as
planning on being gone over weekend...

What's your actual actual DC port dimensions you need to fit?

They're all over the place. Flex tubing and clamps make up for a lot of sins
but trying to connect anything solid to the things is iffy. I've even had
problems with quick disconnects, making them nearly useless.

Port measurements
Unisaw = 3.88" O.D.
DW735 = 3.95" O.D.
DC = 3.93" O.D. (4" port didn't measure the 6")

4" Thinwall PVC elbow = 4.26"

Some miscellaneous DC fittings:

4" to 2-1/2" reducer = 3.97"
90 degree elbow = 3.91"
DC - PVC connector = 3.93" O.D. 4.36" I.D.
"Y" = 4.00"
Blast gate = 3.97"
Male Coupling = 4.00"

OK, I see what I did...man, I'm apparently aged...

I _DID_ have some similar troubles but had totally forgotten what I had
done. It's a combination of things including a couple wraps of metallic
tape on the smaller OD fittings but the primary solution was to take the
PVC fitting to the saw and slice a couple kerfs in it so it could be
compressed. On the tablesaw (PM-66) I then used a bead of caulk and pan
head sheet metal screws to put it in place and compress it to the port.
It's not absolutely air tight, but not bad. Similar tricks elsewhere.

The other thing I used I don't know where to recommend to try to get but
it works pretty well if you can find (and afford) it. In a former life
I did online coal analyzer engineering support at coal mines, prep
plants and utilities. In the prep plants I found flex metal duct in 4-,
5-, and 6-inch sizes and managed to acquire quite a bit of cutoffs. It
serves where you've used the plastic flex w/ a similar fitting trick
like on the PVC (sometimes shrink, sometimes gain a little). Another
thing I've used for smaller ports is similar but cheaper is the air
cleaner aspirator hose off the farm tractor -- it's readily available at
any Deere or other farm supply in various sizes altho not sure up to 4"
for it.

I don't have any idea what vendor the metal flex I have is; it has no
discernible markings and it's been 20 years nearly and it was scavenged
or "donated" rather than purchased. The link here is similar stuff...

http://www.tru-flex.com/Industrial/poly-flex.php

But, I'll repeat that the biggest trick was that I just modified the
fittings, particularly PVC to suit and splitting them to allow to
constrict them was the biggest thing. Since they just sit there and I
didn't disconnect at that point when moved, I'd completely forgotten
about what I'd actually done...

--