I last changed the engine oil filter in my Mitsubishi 2.8 turbo deisel,
about 2 years ago. Is that pushing it, a bit? I should say it is a 16 year-
old vehicle.

What is the effect of *never* changing the oild filter? Does the filter
eventually clog up, or what?

As for oil changes, there is a slight leak in the rocker box gasket, so the
occasional oil top-ups amount to a complete oil change about every 2 years,
without needing to undo the sump nut - very convenient. ;-)

TIA

Al

AL_n wrote:
I last changed the engine oil filter in my Mitsubishi 2.8 turbo deisel,
about 2 years ago. Is that pushing it, a bit? I should say it is a 16 year-
old vehicle.

What is the effect of *never* changing the oild filter? Does the filter
eventually clog up, or what?

As for oil changes, there is a slight leak in the rocker box gasket, so the
occasional oil top-ups amount to a complete oil change about every 2 years,
without needing to undo the sump nut - very convenient. ;-)

TIA

Al
6000ml/6months whichever is the sooner. more modern diesels are
12000ml/12months.

You might be adding clean oil regularly but the leak is not getting rid
of any of the sludge from your sump neither do you burn any sludge.

Workout how much hassle and cost to you of a seized engine compared with
2hrs max per year changing your own oil.

Go figure as our 'merkin friends say.

Bob

On Dec 5, 3:44*pm, "AL_n" wrote:
I last changed the engine oil filter in my Mitsubishi 2.8 turbo deisel,
about 2 years ago. Is that pushing it, a bit? I should say it is a 16 year-
old vehicle.

What is the effect of *never* changing the oild filter? Does the filter
eventually clog up, or what?

The filter will block oil flow, keeping the bypass valve open, meaning
the engine is running on unfiltered oil continuously. Carbon deposits
will help blow engine seals and there will be an increase in bore and
bearing wear. Tappets may gunge up causing erratic and possibly
dangerous running, think of a valve sticking while cornering on slippy
stuff.


As for oil changes, there is a slight leak in the rocker box gasket, so the
occasional oil top-ups amount to a complete oil change about every 2 years,
without needing to undo the sump nut - very convenient. ;-)

Should make an ideal demonstration when doing an oil change.

In article ,
AL_n wrote:
I last changed the engine oil filter in my Mitsubishi 2.8 turbo deisel,
about 2 years ago. Is that pushing it, a bit? I should say it is a 16
year- old vehicle.

Why not just look at the service details? All vehicles are not the same
and the maker generally knows best.

--
*Your kid may be an honours student, but you're still an idiot.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Bob Minchin wrote:
AL_n wrote:
I last changed the engine oil filter in my Mitsubishi 2.8 turbo
deisel, about 2 years ago. Is that pushing it, a bit? I should say
it is a 16 year- old vehicle.

What is the effect of *never* changing the oild filter? Does the
filter eventually clog up, or what?

As for oil changes, there is a slight leak in the rocker box gasket,
so the occasional oil top-ups amount to a complete oil change about
every 2 years, without needing to undo the sump nut - very
convenient. ;-) TIA

Al
6000ml/6months whichever is the sooner. more modern diesels are
12000ml/12months.

Are you sure?

I am sure my 54 reg van has the oil change at around 30000 miles. I cannot
find the handbook at the moment to check that. Not that I need it as there
is a light comes on the dash to tell me to swap the oil and this is based on
the type and style of driving that I do.

--
Adam

* Sometimes I like to lay in my neighbours garden and pretend to be a
carrot *

On Dec 5, 3:44*pm, "AL_n" wrote:
I last changed the engine oil filter in my Mitsubishi 2.8 turbo deisel,
about 2 years ago. Is that pushing it, a bit? I should say it is a 16 year-
old vehicle.

What is the effect of *never* changing the oild filter? Does the filter
eventually clog up, or what?

As for oil changes, there is a slight leak in the rocker box gasket, so the
occasional oil top-ups amount to a complete oil change about every 2 years,
without needing to undo the sump nut - very convenient. ;-)

TIA

Al
All filters block up eventually. In most cars, a bypass them opens
but this allows unfiltered oil to go round the engine.

The long molecules in oil get chopped up and the lubricating
properties are reduced.
Also metal fragmetnts, carbon and acids build up in the oil if
unchanged.

Not clever what you are doing.

ARWadsworth wrote:
Bob Minchin wrote:
AL_n wrote:
I last changed the engine oil filter in my Mitsubishi 2.8 turbo
deisel, about 2 years ago. Is that pushing it, a bit? I should say
it is a 16 year- old vehicle.

What is the effect of *never* changing the oild filter? Does the
filter eventually clog up, or what?

As for oil changes, there is a slight leak in the rocker box gasket,
so the occasional oil top-ups amount to a complete oil change about
every 2 years, without needing to undo the sump nut - very
convenient. ;-) TIA

Al
6000ml/6months whichever is the sooner. more modern diesels are
12000ml/12months.

Are you sure?

I am sure my 54 reg van has the oil change at around 30000 miles. I cannot
find the handbook at the moment to check that. Not that I need it as there
is a light comes on the dash to tell me to swap the oil and this is based on
the type and style of driving that I do.

I wouldn't claim to be an expert but when service intervals started
increasing for petrol cars in the 90's, diesels stuck at 6000/6months
meaning (at the time, whilst fuel costs were lower for diesel) , the
increased servicing costs meant that diesels were only worthwhile if the
extended engine life was brought into the sums.
The diesel manufacturers responded and extended to 12k/12m which is the
case for my 54 plate ford diesel car.
I've not come across vehicles offering 30k miles servicing but now I
have bought my car, I've not continued to look at service intervals for
other makes.

As another poster mentioned, the makers recommendations are likely to be
correct.

Bob

Bob Minchin wrote:

when service intervals started
increasing for petrol cars in the 90's, diesels stuck at 6000/6months
meaning (at the time, whilst fuel costs were lower for diesel) , the
increased servicing costs meant that diesels were only worthwhile if the
extended engine life was brought into the sums.
The diesel manufacturers responded and extended to 12k/12m which is the
case for my 54 plate ford diesel car.

My TDI engine is 18,000 miles/24 months, with a possible earlier oil
change depending on driving style.

Large oil sumps (7-8L) mean twice as long oil drain intervals compared
to small (3.7-4.0L). It was all done for the fleet buyer who basically
wanted a) minimal servicing costs and b) resale on the used market to
be close to what they bought at on the subsidised fleet bulk buyer
market.

Nothing to stop someone using a fleet oil from a motor factor like
Comma, it will be a fair bit less. Note generic oil filters often have
different bypass oil pressure compared to OEM. This can raise its head
during cold starts etc.

Check your air filter if getting a bit forgetful, the rubber seal DOES
break down with age and go through the engine & lodge in the cat. I
know this because of the smell of burning rubber once and it was not
my tyres... had completely forgotten... must have been 8yrs rather
than the suggested 2yrs. Mileage wise it was right, but age wise
things do deteriorate. Likewise coolant level is easy to "drift off to
the back burner" when something somewhere gets a tiny bit leaky (crack
in a plastic fitting which only propogates over years and only opens
at certain temperatures).

Modern diesels are very hard on their oil, the particulate buildup is
severe and multiple short trips or poor monitoring of oil level can
result in very big bills. Things are also not well made, intercoolers
are the thinnest aluminium they could get to come out of the factory
without imploding on impact with a neutrino.

AL_n wrote:
I last changed the engine oil filter in my Mitsubishi 2.8 turbo deisel,
about 2 years ago. Is that pushing it, a bit? I should say it is a 16 year-
old vehicle.

What is the effect of *never* changing the oild filter? Does the filter
eventually clog up, or what?

yes.

As for oil changes, there is a slight leak in the rocker box gasket, so the
occasional oil top-ups amount to a complete oil change about every 2 years,
without needing to undo the sump nut - very convenient. ;-)


I would change the filter and drain teh oil about every 10k miles. It is
not a big job.

Failure to do that will limit engine life to about 80K miles max instead
of the 200K most engines will do if not abused.

Note to buyers:
Beware the 2 year old car with 120k on the clock: Or the one year old
with 60K..Its a reps car and many companies simply never service them at
all from new till resale. It may look shiny, but it probably never had a
pad change or an oil change in its life.

And in any case, if the pedal rubbers are worn and its got 20k on the
clock, worry. Its not so easy to clock cars as it was BUT you can get
the plates and the speedo off a wreck and put them on a high mileage
car..or just the speedo sometimes..

TIA

Al

ARWadsworth wrote:
Bob Minchin wrote:
AL_n wrote:
I last changed the engine oil filter in my Mitsubishi 2.8 turbo
deisel, about 2 years ago. Is that pushing it, a bit? I should say
it is a 16 year- old vehicle.

What is the effect of *never* changing the oild filter? Does the
filter eventually clog up, or what?

As for oil changes, there is a slight leak in the rocker box gasket,
so the occasional oil top-ups amount to a complete oil change about
every 2 years, without needing to undo the sump nut - very
convenient. ;-) TIA

Al
6000ml/6months whichever is the sooner. more modern diesels are
12000ml/12months.

Are you sure?

I am sure my 54 reg van has the oil change at around 30000 miles. I cannot
find the handbook at the moment to check that. Not that I need it as there
is a light comes on the dash to tell me to swap the oil and this is based on
the type and style of driving that I do.

Thst VERY modern.

Really tight torlearnces and beter materials and beter design and
synthetic oils have pushed oil changes from 3000 miles (BMC A series) to
6000 miles (later BMC series) to 10k miles or annually (most modern cars
I have driven)

I believe some will do better..

In article ,
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
And in any case, if the pedal rubbers are worn and its got 20k on the
clock, worry. Its not so easy to clock cars as it was BUT you can get
the plates and the speedo off a wreck and put them on a high mileage
car..or just the speedo sometimes..

A half decent car will store the mileage information elsewhere in
addition. Making it extremely difficult to alter the true reading without
it showing it has been tampered with.

--
*Do infants enjoy infancy as much as adults enjoy adultery? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
And in any case, if the pedal rubbers are worn and its got 20k on the
clock, worry. Its not so easy to clock cars as it was BUT you can get
the plates and the speedo off a wreck and put them on a high mileage
car..or just the speedo sometimes..

A half decent car will store the mileage information elsewhere in
addition. Making it extremely difficult to alter the true reading without
it showing it has been tampered with.

but not impossible...

Huge wrote:
On 2011-12-05, ARWadsworth wrote:
Bob Minchin wrote:
AL_n wrote:
I last changed the engine oil filter in my Mitsubishi 2.8 turbo
deisel, about 2 years ago. Is that pushing it, a bit? I should say
it is a 16 year- old vehicle.

What is the effect of *never* changing the oild filter? Does the
filter eventually clog up, or what?

As for oil changes, there is a slight leak in the rocker box
gasket, so the occasional oil top-ups amount to a complete oil
change about every 2 years, without needing to undo the sump nut -
very convenient. ;-) TIA

Al
6000ml/6months whichever is the sooner. more modern diesels are
12000ml/12months.

Are you sure?

I am sure my 54 reg van has the oil change at around 30000 miles.

Bloody hell - did you hit the zero too many times?

No. I now have the manual. It's 2 years or 30000 miles and uses a SAE 5W-40
oil.

--
Adam

* Sometimes I like to lay in my neighbours garden and pretend to be a
carrot *

On Dec 5, 11:25*pm, Huge wrote:

I am sure my 54 reg van has the oil change at around 30000 miles.

Bloody hell - did you hit the zero too many times?

Some Vauxhall petrol engines are 2 years, 20000 miles. So I wouldn't
put it out of the realms of possibility for there to be a few vehicles
like that with modern engines and oils. Though changing more often
than that will probably do the engine good.

I think my Vectra (1.8 VVT petrol) is 1 year, 20000 miles, but as I do
less than 6K a year it's just annual anyway.

Neil

In article ,
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
And in any case, if the pedal rubbers are worn and its got 20k on the
clock, worry. Its not so easy to clock cars as it was BUT you can get
the plates and the speedo off a wreck and put them on a high mileage
car..or just the speedo sometimes..

A half decent car will store the mileage information elsewhere in
addition. Making it extremely difficult to alter the true reading
without it showing it has been tampered with.

but not impossible...

Nothing is impossible. However, to change both the speedo and the engine
ECU - and alter them so they can't be traced - requires rather more skill
than the average car thief possesses. But then many buyers won't care that
they've bought stolen goods either. At a knock down price.

--
*Men are from Earth, women are from Earth. Deal with it.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article
,
Neil Williams wrote:
Some Vauxhall petrol engines are 2 years, 20000 miles. So I wouldn't
put it out of the realms of possibility for there to be a few vehicles
like that with modern engines and oils. Though changing more often
than that will probably do the engine good.

I'm not convinced it does. Most engines outlast the car anyway these days
- unless they suffer a failure like a broken cambelt or cooling system,
neither of which will be prevented by frequent oil changes.

--
*A chicken crossing the road is poultry in motion.*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Dec 6, 2:48*pm, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
In article
,
* *Neil Williams wrote:

Some Vauxhall petrol engines are 2 years, 20000 miles. *So I wouldn't
put it out of the realms of possibility for there to be a few vehicles
like that with modern engines and oils. *Though changing more often
than that will probably do the engine good.

I'm not convinced it does. Most engines outlast the car anyway these days
- unless they suffer a failure like a broken cambelt or cooling system,
neither of which will be prevented by frequent oil changes.

With two or three years between servicing, it's likely to be more
prevalent.

In article
,
thirty-six wrote:
I'm not convinced it does. Most engines outlast the car anyway these
days - unless they suffer a failure like a broken cambelt or cooling
system, neither of which will be prevented by frequent oil changes.

With two or three years between servicing, it's likely to be more
prevalent.

Most have a maximum time between services as well as a mileage limit -
specifically for low use vehicles. But there's nothing to stop you doing a
look over the engine as often as you want, rather than hoping it will be
done at oil change time.

I can - just - remember when cars went from 3000 to 5000 mile oil changes.
Exactly the same arguments were used then...

--
*There are two kinds of pedestrians... the quick and the dead.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
And in any case, if the pedal rubbers are worn and its got 20k on the
clock, worry. Its not so easy to clock cars as it was BUT you can get
the plates and the speedo off a wreck and put them on a high mileage
car..or just the speedo sometimes..
A half decent car will store the mileage information elsewhere in
addition. Making it extremely difficult to alter the true reading
without it showing it has been tampered with.

but not impossible...

Nothing is impossible. However, to change both the speedo and the engine
ECU - and alter them so they can't be traced - requires rather more skill
than the average car thief possesses. But then many buyers won't care that
they've bought stolen goods either. At a knock down price.

Its when you pay full price and the thing blows up 1000 miles
later...because the engine had done its 1000k without an oil change..

On Dec 6, 4:00*pm, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
In article
,
* *thirty-six wrote:

I'm not convinced it does. Most engines outlast the car anyway these
days - unless they suffer a failure like a broken cambelt or cooling
system, neither of which will be prevented by frequent oil changes.
With two or three years between servicing, it's likely to be more
prevalent.

Most have a maximum time between services as well as a mileage limit -
specifically for low use vehicles. But there's nothing to stop you doing a
look over the engine as often as you want, rather than hoping it will be
done at oil change time.

I can - just - remember when cars went from 3000 to 5000 mile oil changes..
Exactly the same arguments were used then...

Today's cars are less tolerant of under-pessure cooling systems and
are reliant on anti-freeze to aid thermal transfer both in the engine
and radiator. Annual coolant pressure and coolant checks should be
peformed as a matter of course. Cambelt(s) should be checked as a
matter of course (unless one is to adopt automatic replacement at 8
years/100,000miles) and it's probably also a good time to check oil
pressure. Starter syatem checks should also be performed as a matter
of course. Other systems/parts are generally mileage dependant or
should be noticed and rectified by the driver as and when faults
appear. Headlight bulb efficiency is possibly another check not fully
covered in MOT testing which possibly should be included in an annual
service. I think you are lucky to get good brightness levels much
after 1000 hours of use.

Iron/copper electrode spark plugs still benefit from dressing every
3000 miles and the distributer rotor is still a better system than
double ended coils or split tension systems. Unfortunately the rotor
and cap do need attention each year due to erosion and corrosion and
probable replacement at three years or 20,000 miles. It still gives a
bigger bang, and that's what counts when doing your own servicing.
It's an insignificant expense countered by improved engine efficiency
and the high price of fuel.

On Dec 6, 5:34*pm, "Doctor Drivel" wrote:
One automotive engineer, not mechanic, said the best thing is use the likes
of Mobil 1 oil and a high quality oil filter that grabs particals of smaller

Actually since about 2004 Mobil 1 is no longer a true fully synthetic.
Mobil lost a test case against Castrol re Magnatec which was claimed
to be fully synthetic when it was in fact a hydrocracked Group IV
mineral oil. The use of hydrocracking paraffin etc into engine oil
makes a boost to profit from utilisation of lower grade stocks.
As a result Mobil themselves moved to it, so basically synthetic can
mean "true" polyolefin etc or blend of cracked mineral oils.

There is a true synthetic still available - Miller, however I think it
is about £65-69 for 4L. There comes a point when you are better off
changing a cheaper oil more often due to water & fuel contamination
and additive depletion. For a lot of stop-start driving your enemy is
sludge, high end oils can tolerate this - but it can be better to just
use a slightly lower oil and change often. Some cars have chronic
problems with "mayonnaise" under the oil filler cap which grows with
moisture contamination (poorly designed PCV system), others have
problems with cam profile (think one VW) in which case you should use
any particular oil they specify re additive packaged created for that
OEM.

As for fine particles, you can use micro-fine bypass oil filters. In
reality unless you are doing 35,000 miles per year the body of most
cars is likely to suffer hidden corrosion in seams (rear wheel arch,
hidden behind the front wheel arch tray) from about year 10 onwards
and some much sooner. Many cars use bonded in wheel arches, there is
no spot weld around the top part of the arch, the polyurethane bond is
about 1cm higher up on the outer face; as soon as any corrosion takes
place the lips are forced open and moisture can both penetrate and run
around (classic wheel arch at the 9-o-clock & rear of rear sill
corrosion on many cars). By 12yrs you have a real infestation and only
know when it pops through from the inside-to-outside corrosion.

So balance maintenance with bodywork checks. If you buy new, apply
dinitrol in the seams if you plan on keeping for the long term. Once
corrosion has started little will stop it because car steel is so thin
ironically at the most vulnerable places; typically 0.7mm in wheel
arch areas and 0.8mm in bodywork, 1.0-1.2-(1.5mm) in stronger areas &
frame rails. Corrosion thus perforates through first then runs along -
hence the classic term "tin worm".

Well worth checking the various car forums for the "known faults &
problem areas"; can save a fair amount re contingency, pre-emptive &
avoidance.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article
,
Neil Williams wrote:
Some Vauxhall petrol engines are 2 years, 20000 miles. So I wouldn't
put it out of the realms of possibility for there to be a few
vehicles like that with modern engines and oils. Though changing
more often than that will probably do the engine good.

I'm not convinced it does. Most engines outlast the car anyway these
days - unless they suffer a failure like a broken cambelt or cooling
system, neither of which will be prevented by frequent oil changes.

Actually I do change the oil more often than 30K most times. My brother is
my mechanic and if I was for example having new brake pads fitted and the
oil has done 20K it makes sense for him to drop the oil whilst the car is on
the ramps as it saves me losing another half a days work.

This year is the first time the oil light has come on when actually due for
a change. Too many trips to London, Kent and the Lakes (I am blaming geoff
for some of the London trips)

--
Adam

* Sometimes I like to lay in my neighbours garden and pretend to be a
carrot *

On Dec 6, 6:03*pm, "js.b1" wrote:
On Dec 6, 5:34*pm, "Doctor Drivel" wrote:

One automotive engineer, not mechanic, said the best thing is use the likes
of Mobil 1 oil and a high quality oil filter that grabs particals of smaller

Actually since about 2004 Mobil 1 is no longer a true fully synthetic.
Mobil lost a test case against Castrol re Magnatec which was claimed
to be fully synthetic when it was in fact a hydrocracked Group IV
mineral oil. The use of hydrocracking paraffin etc into engine oil
makes a boost to profit from utilisation of lower grade stocks.
As a result Mobil themselves moved to it, so basically synthetic can
mean "true" polyolefin etc or blend of cracked mineral oils.

There is a true synthetic still available - Miller, however I think it
is about £65-69 for 4L. There comes a point when you are better off
changing a cheaper oil more often due to water & fuel contamination
and additive depletion. For a lot of stop-start driving your enemy is
sludge, high end oils can tolerate this - but it can be better to just
use a slightly lower oil and change often. Some cars have chronic
problems with "mayonnaise" under the oil filler cap which grows with
moisture contamination (poorly designed PCV system), others have
problems with cam profile (think one VW) in which case you should use
any particular oil they specify re additive packaged created for that
OEM.

It was a few years ago, but I did get a good semi-synthetic from
Vavolene. It was certainly better than the later Comma semi-
synthetic. Currently using Halfords synthetic (bought in advance when
on offer) but not overly impressed with its cold viscocity grading.
Seems rather heavy on warm-up.


As for fine particles, you can use micro-fine bypass oil filters. In

The Italian made basic filters P******* (I forgot) are supposedly
good. I'm not so sure, perhaps it is the filter which is causing the
loss in performance through warm-up. Come to think of it, I've not
done a hot, full throttle acceleration test with this combination.

OOp's, it's a 5W40 and I wanted a 30 . How did that happen? That's
an advantage of using synthetic, it's acceptable to use a lower
viscocity which results in higher performance usually beyond the
manufacturer's economy and speed/acceleration tests. At least in
older motors which specified inferior oils.

reality unless you are doing 35,000 miles per year the body of most
cars is likely to suffer hidden corrosion in seams (rear wheel arch,
hidden behind the front wheel arch tray) from about year 10 onwards
and some much sooner. Many cars use bonded in wheel arches, there is
no spot weld around the top part of the arch, the polyurethane bond is
about 1cm higher up on the outer face; as soon as any corrosion takes
place the lips are forced open and moisture can both penetrate and run
around (classic wheel arch at the 9-o-clock & rear of rear sill
corrosion on many cars). By 12yrs you have a real infestation and only
know when it pops through from the inside-to-outside corrosion.

I must check for this. Vehicle's over 10 years and has repaired front
nearside three years ago, so ripe for rusting, I know manufacturers
repair standards were not adhered to.

So balance maintenance with bodywork checks. If you buy new, apply
dinitrol in the seams if you plan on keeping for the long term. Once
corrosion has started little will stop it because car steel is so thin
ironically at the most vulnerable places; typically 0.7mm in wheel
arch areas and 0.8mm in bodywork, 1.0-1.2-(1.5mm) in stronger areas &
frame rails. Corrosion thus perforates through first then runs along -
hence the classic term "tin worm".

Well worth checking the various car forums for the "known faults &
problem areas"; can save a fair amount re contingency, pre-emptive &
avoidance.

"thirty-six" wrote in message
...

Cambelt(s) should be checked as a
matter of course (unless one is to adopt automatic replacement at 8
years/100,000miles)

There are a lot of cars out there that require cam belt replacement at
60,000 or even 40.000 miles so every 100,000 isn't a good idea.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article
,
Neil Williams wrote:
Some Vauxhall petrol engines are 2 years, 20000 miles. So I wouldn't
put it out of the realms of possibility for there to be a few vehicles
like that with modern engines and oils. Though changing more often
than that will probably do the engine good.

I'm not convinced it does. Most engines outlast the car anyway these days
- unless they suffer a failure like a broken cambelt or cooling system,
neither of which will be prevented by frequent oil changes.

Er no.

They can still end up with worn bores and buggered bearings and burn oil
and then put a rod through the block.

Bob Minchin wrote:
AL_n wrote:
I last changed the engine oil filter in my Mitsubishi 2.8 turbo
deisel, about 2 years ago. Is that pushing it, a bit? I should say
it is a 16 year- old vehicle.

What is the effect of *never* changing the oild filter? Does the
filter eventually clog up, or what?

As for oil changes, there is a slight leak in the rocker box gasket,
so the occasional oil top-ups amount to a complete oil change about
every 2 years, without needing to undo the sump nut - very
convenient. ;-) TIA

Al
6000ml/6months whichever is the sooner. more modern diesels are
12000ml/12months.

You might be adding clean oil regularly but the leak is not getting
rid of any of the sludge from your sump neither do you burn any
sludge.
Workout how much hassle and cost to you of a seized engine compared
with 2hrs max per year changing your own oil.

Go figure as our 'merkin friends say.


Further to my other posts my van handbook says that "if more than 1 litre of
oil is used for top ups between service intervals then the oil change
interval is reduced to 20K and that the service interval display should be
ignored"

--
Adam

* Sometimes I like to lay in my neighbours garden and pretend to be a
carrot *

dennis@home wrote:


"thirty-six" wrote in message
...

Cambelt(s) should be checked as a
matter of course (unless one is to adopt automatic replacement at 8
years/100,000miles)

There are a lot of cars out there that require cam belt replacement at
60,000 or even 40.000 miles so every 100,000 isn't a good idea.




Most belts do 60-80k

I've not seen one snap at 40k, but had two (both vauxhall) go at the
sort of 70k mark.

In article
,
thirty-six wrote:
Iron/copper electrode spark plugs still benefit from dressing every
3000 miles and the distributer rotor is still a better system than
double ended coils or split tension systems. Unfortunately the rotor
and cap do need attention each year due to erosion and corrosion and
probable replacement at three years or 20,000 miles. It still gives a
bigger bang, and that's what counts when doing your own servicing.
It's an insignificant expense countered by improved engine efficiency
and the high price of fuel.

What sort of car are you talking about that still has a dizzy?

--
*Many people quit looking for work when they find a job *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
I'm not convinced it does. Most engines outlast the car anyway these
days - unless they suffer a failure like a broken cambelt or cooling
system, neither of which will be prevented by frequent oil changes.

Er no.

They can still end up with worn bores and buggered bearings and burn oil
and then put a rod through the block.

Please name and shame so we know to avoid those makes.

--
*Growing old is inevitable, growing up is optional

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article
,
thirty-six wrote:
Iron/copper electrode spark plugs still benefit from dressing every
3000 miles and the distributer rotor is still a better system than
double ended coils or split tension systems. Unfortunately the rotor
and cap do need attention each year due to erosion and corrosion and
probable replacement at three years or 20,000 miles. It still gives a
bigger bang, and that's what counts when doing your own servicing.
It's an insignificant expense countered by improved engine efficiency
and the high price of fuel.

What sort of car are you talking about that still has a dizzy?

most do. Or many do. No contacts but still one 25kv coil feeding one of
four (6 or 8) plugs..via a rotating rotor arm. there may also be a
sensor there to monitor crank position. But thats more generally on the
camshaft

As is the distributor itself sometimes. Depends really on packaging.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
I'm not convinced it does. Most engines outlast the car anyway these
days - unless they suffer a failure like a broken cambelt or cooling
system, neither of which will be prevented by frequent oil changes.

Er no.

They can still end up with worn bores and buggered bearings and burn oil
and then put a rod through the block.

Please name and shame so we know to avoid those makes.

Any car will do that if you abuse it with no oil and no filter cahnges
drive it hard and let it go past a point of no return

Its LESS likely today because in general ignition timing and fuel
mixture are far better controlled with EFI so chances of damaged valves
pistons and general coking up are small. but enough **** in the oil, a
blocked oil gallery and a run out bearing and clatter clatter bang as
the big end goes..and there's a grand and a half for a new engine, or
get a scrapper.

Or you get low coolant a warped head and a stressed overhead cam, that
snaps and the piston and the valves have sex, discover theres no vagina,
and proceed to make one..

Or the head gasket goes, dumps water in the oil, and that takes out the
big ends - or even the mains..

There is a reason why you check oil, change filters and oil and change
coolant on a regular basis....

On Dec 6, 8:30*pm, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:
dennis@home wrote:

"thirty-six" wrote in message
...

Cambelt(s) should be checked as a
matter of course (unless one is to adopt automatic replacement at 8
years/100,000miles)

There are a lot of cars out there that require cam belt replacement at
60,000 or even 40.000 miles so every 100,000 isn't a good idea.

Most belts do 60-80k

I've not seen one snap at 40k, but had two (both vauxhall) go at the
sort of 70k mark.

Yes, Vauxhall have had engine assembly problems.

On Dec 6, 11:17*pm, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:
In article
,
* *thirty-six wrote:

Iron/copper electrode spark plugs still benefit from dressing every
3000 miles and the distributer rotor is still a better system than
double ended coils or split tension systems. *Unfortunately the rotor
and cap do need attention each year due to erosion and corrosion and
probable replacement at three years or 20,000 miles. *It still gives a
bigger bang, and that's what counts when doing your own servicing.
It's an insignificant expense countered by improved engine efficiency
and the high price of fuel.

What sort of car are you talking about that still has a dizzy?


A reliable one.

On Dec 7, 12:54*am, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
* *The Natural Philosopher wrote:
I'm not convinced it does. Most engines outlast the car anyway these
days - unless they suffer a failure like a broken cambelt or cooling
system, neither of which will be prevented by frequent oil changes.

Er no.

They can still end up with worn bores and buggered bearings and burn oil
and then put a rod through the block.

Please name and shame so we know to avoid those makes.

Any car will do that if you abuse it with no oil and no filter cahnges
drive it hard and let it go past a point of no return

Its LESS likely today because in general ignition timing and fuel
mixture are far better controlled with EFI so chances of damaged valves
pistons and general coking up are small. *but enough **** in the oil, a
blocked oil gallery and a run out bearing and clatter clatter bang as
the big end goes..and there's a grand and a half for a new engine, or
get a scrapper.

Or you get low coolant a warped head and a stressed overhead cam, that
snaps and the piston and the valves have sex, discover theres no vagina,
and proceed to make one..

Or the head gasket goes, dumps water in the oil, and that takes out the
big ends - or even the mains..

There is a reason why you check oil, change filters and oil and change
coolant on a regular basis....

It wasn't my fault, I didn't know the oil was four years old and
loaded with petrol when I road-tested the van at 80mph. Yep, I'd just
sorted out the ignition and carb and the beast was running well with
top acceleration and hill climbing, so i took it on the dual
carriageway. After probably 8 minutes of 80mph running, there was a
change in engine note (muffled like) and I looked at the neelde and
watched it dip slightly. "Ug, somethings wrong.". I eased off but
the bad note remained so I declutched and the oil pressure light came
on a couple of seconds before stalling so I let the clutch out for a
bit to stop the engine seizing then coasted to a stop a couple of
miles down the road. I phoned my brother, telling him what was wrong
and to bring a new can of cheap thick oil so I could drive home. He
arrived on his motorbike without the oil, so I drove at 25mph on the
then cooled oil for the .12 mile or so home. The oil was black, stunk
of petrol and had the consistency of water. It was a wonder I made it
past two minutes at top speed. It had been a main bearing failure
which dumped the oil pressure, and no you don't need to have used
Slutt 50, a used engine will run at low loads without an oil feed for
hours. There's a big difference in engine loading at 80mph than at
25mph-40mph (must have been the wind pushing ;-) ).

On Dec 6, 8:18*pm, "ARWadsworth"
wrote:
Bob Minchin wrote:
AL_n wrote:
I last changed the engine oil filter in my Mitsubishi 2.8 turbo
deisel, about 2 years ago. Is that pushing it, a bit? I should say
it is a 16 year- old vehicle.

What is the effect of *never* changing the oild filter? Does the
filter eventually clog up, or what?

As for oil changes, there is a slight leak in the rocker box gasket,
so the occasional oil top-ups amount to a complete oil change about
every 2 years, without needing to undo the sump nut - very
convenient. ;-) TIA

Al
6000ml/6months whichever is the sooner. more modern diesels are
12000ml/12months.

You might be adding clean oil regularly but the leak is not getting
rid of any of the sludge from your sump neither do you burn any
sludge.
Workout how much hassle and cost to you of a seized engine compared
with 2hrs max per year changing your own oil.

Go figure as our 'merkin friends say.

Further to my other posts my van handbook says that "if more than 1 litre of
oil is used for top ups between service intervals then the oil change
interval is reduced to 20K and that the service interval display should be
ignored"


ROTFLMAO

OMG, a feel good indicator. Why don't you just rig up a lamp to
indicate you missed the jackpot on the lottery this week. It'll at
least be a more reliable indicator. That sort of bull**** is never
supposed to leave the programmer's bug sheets, er feature list.

On Dec 6, 8:10*pm, "dennis@home" wrote:
"thirty-six" wrote in message

...

Cambelt(s) should be checked as a

matter of course (unless one is to adopt automatic replacement at 8
years/100,000miles)

There are a lot of cars out there that require cam belt replacement at
60,000 or even 40.000 miles so every 100,000 isn't a good idea.

Must be using economy belts or there are other problems with design or
assembly the manufacturer isn't being open about.

In article ,
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
I'm not convinced it does. Most engines outlast the car anyway these
days - unless they suffer a failure like a broken cambelt or cooling
system, neither of which will be prevented by frequent oil changes.

Er no.

They can still end up with worn bores and buggered bearings and burn oil
and then put a rod through the block.

Please name and shame so we know to avoid those makes.

Any car will do that if you abuse it with no oil and no filter cahnges
drive it hard and let it go past a point of no return

Err, I wasn't suggesting neglecting routine servicing. Just querying the
oft stated view that you need to change engine oil more often than the
maker says.

And why just engine oil? Surely if there is some conspiracy to make
engines fail early even when serviced by the book, it would also apply to
every other part of the car which uses a lubricant?

--
*To steal ideas from *one* person is plagiarism; from many, research*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article
,
thirty-six wrote:
What sort of car are you talking about that still has a dizzy?


A reliable one.

Total bollox. A distributor is the spawn of satan. The most troublesome
part of car electrics. Just why do you think it has been abolished?

--
*Aim Low, Reach Your Goals, Avoid Disappointment *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
What sort of car are you talking about that still has a dizzy?

most do. Or many do. No contacts but still one 25kv coil feeding one of
four (6 or 8) plugs..via a rotating rotor arm. there may also be a
sensor there to monitor crank position. But thats more generally on the
camshaft

As is the distributor itself sometimes. Depends really on packaging.

I ask again. Name one new car with any form of distributor. If one exists,
avoid it. As it has an ancient engine design best left for the science
museum.

--
*When it rains, why don't sheep shrink? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.