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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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I want a Dremel tool. Should I buy a standard Dremel, or the top of the
line? What would you do if you had it to do over again? Do I need all the stuff that comes with the most expensive one, or it just nice to have around IN CASE I need it? (Like lots of other tools in my shop.) STeve |
#2
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SteveB wrote:
I want a Dremel tool. Should I buy a standard Dremel, or the top of the line? What would you do if you had it to do over again? Do I need all the stuff that comes with the most expensive one, or it just nice to have around IN CASE I need it? (Like lots of other tools in my shop.) You almost certainly won't need all the stuff. However, having the big case of stuff is really handy in finding which stuff you do need, and which just won't work for a given job. The two-speed model isn't that much worse than the 5-speed one, but occasionally you can want an intermediate speed. You probably don't want a rechargable tool for your first dremel. Some bits are surprisingly useful, for example the sanding drums are great at removing quite gently layers of paint over even quite large areas. And some are not nearly as handy as you might think. |
#3
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![]() "Ian Stirling" wrote in message ... Some bits are surprisingly useful, for example the sanding drums are great at removing quite gently layers of paint over even quite large areas. One of the most useful of all is those tiny, fragile, cutting disks. I have done things with those that would otherwise take a torch. One frequent use is when I strip the head of a Phillips head screw. When that happens, you just cut a new slot across the head of the screw and apply a flat screwdriver. The harder the metal, the better those disks work. Thay sometimes grab badly on soft metal. And some are not nearly as handy as you might think. True enough. I have plenty of unused goodies in my kit. Vaughn |
#4
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![]() "SteveB" wrote in message news:U48sd.187172$G15.141109@fed1read03... I want a Dremel tool. Should I buy a standard Dremel, or the top of the line? What would you do if you had it to do over again? Do I need all the stuff that comes with the most expensive one, or it just nice to have around IN CASE I need it? (Like lots of other tools in my shop.) For work at the bench, I use a Foredom tool with a foot switch For a portable tool, I use a run of the mill Dremel with variable speed, though fixed speed would probably work as well. But then the best answer really depends on what applications you have for it. Mike |
#5
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In article U48sd.187172$G15.141109@fed1read03, "SteveB" wrote: I want a Dremel tool. Should I buy a standard Dremel, or the top of the line? What would you do if you had it to do over again? Do I need all the stuff that comes with the most expensive one, or it just nice to have around IN CASE I need it? (Like lots of other tools in my shop.) The most useful setup is no longer available, so you have to compromise. The ideal Dremel is a ball-bearing FIXED speed model, and then use it with the foot pedal speed control. The foot pedal is incredibly useful, but it won't work well with the variable speed models. At this time, I don't think you can get fixed speed models with the better bearings, but I'd rather have sleeve bearings than give up on the foot pedal. I've complained to Dremel about this, but as far as I know, they haven't done anything about it. I'd go ahead & get a full kit. You never know which bits you'll need. The router & drill press attachments are also handy, but the current drill press is a bit sloppy. It tends to wobble from side to side as you lower the tool, which is a no-no if you are drilling with tiny carbide bits. Doug White |
#6
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On Fri, 3 Dec 2004 17:07:01 -0800, "SteveB"
wrote: I want a Dremel tool. Should I buy a standard Dremel, or the top of the line? What would you do if you had it to do over again? Do I need all the stuff that comes with the most expensive one, or it just nice to have around IN CASE I need it? (Like lots of other tools in my shop.) STeve I would buy just the motor tool and some sanding drums and cutoff wheels. I have several, my fav is the variable speed. My least fav was a rechargable that I gave away a few months ago. I've often thought a flexible shaft machine would be better than a dremel. |
#7
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![]() "Mike Henry" wrote in message ... "SteveB" wrote in message news:U48sd.187172$G15.141109@fed1read03... I want a Dremel tool. Should I buy a standard Dremel, or the top of the line? What would you do if you had it to do over again? Do I need all the stuff that comes with the most expensive one, or it just nice to have around IN CASE I need it? (Like lots of other tools in my shop.) For work at the bench, I use a Foredom tool with a foot switch. (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^ That's a lot more expensive and a lot better than a Dremel. I found a Proxxon on sale, which I like very much. Even on sale it costs more than a Dremel, but less than a Foredom. The feature of Proxxon which I particularly like is the chuck. It's like a tiny Jacobs chuck, so you are not forever changing collets. |
#8
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I have two Dremel tools, one variable speed and one rechargable (which I
have yet to even open). My Main Dremel tool gets ALOT of use, I have purchased the flex shaft for it which makes it even better. I restore Coleman products and my Dremel is perfect for this operation. I go through about 5 wire wheels a week if I am steady working. I mainly use the wire wheels and buffing wheels. The thin cut-off disks really does a job on small welds that my larger grinder would make a mess of. My opinion would be to buy the Dremel kit with the flex shaft attachment. Like another poster said there will be bits in the kit that you will never use. I do have most all of the bits available, but then again I do have alot of hobbies! Searcher1 "SteveB" wrote in message news:U48sd.187172$G15.141109@fed1read03... I want a Dremel tool. Should I buy a standard Dremel, or the top of the line? What would you do if you had it to do over again? Do I need all the stuff that comes with the most expensive one, or it just nice to have around IN CASE I need it? (Like lots of other tools in my shop.) STeve |
#9
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![]() "SteveB" wrote in message news:U48sd.187172$G15.141109@fed1read03... I want a Dremel tool. Should I buy a standard Dremel, or the top of the line? What would you do if you had it to do over again? Do I need all the stuff that comes with the most expensive one, or it just nice to have around IN CASE I need it? (Like lots of other tools in my shop.) A friend of mine bought one recently and was not impressed. First one blew the motor in a few days and the replacement/repair jobs have been pathetic. The current one has a large amount of run out and is basically useless for the purpose he bought it. I bought three different cheap ones (I was intending to buy the Dremel but after his experience I changed my mind) and each of them is better than the Dremel. Each of these was under $30 AU. Two of which came with the bendy drive. VERY impressed with them. AJS |
#10
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I have an old single speed dremel that I've had for years, but I find I use
an air powered tool much more often - if you have shop air, this might be a valid alternative. I also have a Pfingst flex shaft tool (like foredom) that is pretty handy for small work. the real problem with the dremel is the weight of the motor is right there in the hand set. "SteveB" wrote in message news:U48sd.187172$G15.141109@fed1read03... I want a Dremel tool. Should I buy a standard Dremel, or the top of the line? What would you do if you had it to do over again? Do I need all the stuff that comes with the most expensive one, or it just nice to have around IN CASE I need it? (Like lots of other tools in my shop.) STeve |
#11
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SteveB wrote:
I want a Dremel tool. Should I buy a standard Dremel, or the top of the line? What would you do if you had it to do over again? Do I need all the stuff that comes with the most expensive one, or it just nice to have around IN CASE I need it? (Like lots of other tools in my shop.) STeve Well I was seriously short of cash so I got the really really cheap 'dremel' clone. For anyone looking for it, Its the one with the 15V dc power 'brick' with the standard dc wallwart style power plug (2.5mm centre pin I belive) on a lead attached to the tool, NOT the psu. About £15 at B&Q if they ever have any! It did some really heavy cutting on a 4" diameter propeller hub, I was taking a 1/4" square groove out of it all the way round for clearence on the housing. Nasty grabby aluminium as a previous poster said. Steep learning curve with many shattered disks but I can now make a disk last freehand on steel till its down to a nub. *** Wear eye protection ***. Seeing as the job really should have been done on a lathe, it went amasingly well. The speed control in the handset failed wide open but as I had allready abused it beyond what I regarded as fair and reasonable, I took a look. One beefier transistor in the same series later I had speed control again. A bit of copper strip as a heatsink ard I reconed it would last a little longer. That was 3 years ago and its still going strong. A little too much runout now, probably due to cutting all the rust siezed bolts off a 40 year old boat trailer and slotting 1/4 inch steel plate but it just wont die. I am so impressed I bought another one which is waiting on the shelf for this one to croak. It has a ball bearing in the noze of the tool, and plain bearings in the motor. Apart from a tendency for the other race of the bearing to spin in the housing (I packed it a little with aluminium tape), not too crappy. The collet set only goes to 2.5 mm but with a little work I was able to make a real Dremel 3.2 mm collet fit. (it needed a sleeve as it was under diameter for the spindle) The spindle nut and the thread on the outside of the noze of the housing are a different size to a real Dremel, so you cant use Dremel accessories that arent cutters or bits etc. On the subject of bits: Cutting wheels - Great, You will use lots and lots. Glass fibre reinforced cutting wheels - Not as aggressive as the thin ones and too pricy for most stuff. Should be better for softer metal Sanding drums - quite handy, consumables too expensive and often you cant get the angle to get a good finish on the surface if its too big an item to hand hold. Sanding disks (rubber with stisk on pads) - Wonderfull, you *MUST* get one if it doesnt include one. I bought a couple of sheets of self adhesive sander paper all the way from 600 grit to 36 grit and punch out my own disks using a sharpened piece of thin wall steel tube and a scrap of hardwood as a backing block. A 36 grit sanding disk at 20,000 rpm (nominal but at least 10,000 under load) really chews through just about anything you want to shift :-) Diamond engraving points - Pretty handy, I grind carbide tool tips and make holes in ferrites with them. Mounted stones - either real Cr@p or I just dont know how to use them. Might be ok for sharpening toothpicks. Basically disposable on one job. only use if no other tool will do the job. Unmounted stones - OK, much better than the mounted ones. Various milling cutters - Not bad, The thinnest paralell sided one gets a lot of abuse, the others I dont use much. Felt polishers, buffing wheels etc. - Do what they say, The dremel polishing compound may not be agressive enough for some jobs. Valve grinding paste has its uses, but I reckon pumice in a hard wax would be the most use for me for shifting areas of salt water corrosion on bronze. YMMV :-) -- Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (NEWSGROUP REPLY PREFERRED) ianm[at]the[dash]malcolms[dot]freeserve[dot]co[dot]uk [at]=@, [dash]=- & [dot]=. *Warning* SPAM TRAP set in header, Use email address in sig. if you must. |
#12
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Not if you have the flex shaft, which just about takes care of that issue.
Most people don't have shop air, contrary to popular belief. But I agree, You will find yourself making use of air tools faster than picking up the electric ones. I have both and I do like my Dremel with the flex shaft, without that shaft I most likely would not have one. BTW, I will DAGS the Foredom, but what about this would you say is better than the Dremel. Just curious. Maybe if the Foredom looks to my likeing I may upgrade. Searcher1 "william_b_noble" wrote in message news:1102142068.fWhoW/piPzOIPz9jPE9baw@teranews... I have an old single speed dremel that I've had for years, but I find I use an air powered tool much more often - if you have shop air, this might be a valid alternative. I also have a Pfingst flex shaft tool (like foredom) that is pretty handy for small work. the real problem with the dremel is the weight of the motor is right there in the hand set. "SteveB" wrote in message news:U48sd.187172$G15.141109@fed1read03... I want a Dremel tool. Should I buy a standard Dremel, or the top of the line? What would you do if you had it to do over again? Do I need all the stuff that comes with the most expensive one, or it just nice to have around IN CASE I need it? (Like lots of other tools in my shop.) STeve |
#13
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I switched over to the fiber cutoff wheels that look like full size ones.
They hold up much better but are expensive. I did have a problem with them grinding down really fast when they got LPS 2 on them while I was cutting a screw slot on a frozen Philips screw that had twisted out. Karl "Vaughn" wrote in message ... "Ian Stirling" wrote in message ... Some bits are surprisingly useful, for example the sanding drums are great at removing quite gently layers of paint over even quite large areas. One of the most useful of all is those tiny, fragile, cutting disks. I have done things with those that would otherwise take a torch. One frequent use is when I strip the head of a Phillips head screw. When that happens, you just cut a new slot across the head of the screw and apply a flat screwdriver. The harder the metal, the better those disks work. Thay sometimes grab badly on soft metal. And some are not nearly as handy as you might think. True enough. I have plenty of unused goodies in my kit. Vaughn --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.805 / Virus Database: 547 - Release Date: 12/4/2004 |
#14
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On Sat, 04 Dec 2004 03:28:15 GMT, "Leo Lichtman"
wrote: "Mike Henry" wrote in message ... "SteveB" wrote in message news:U48sd.187172$G15.141109@fed1read03... I want a Dremel tool. Should I buy a standard Dremel, or the top of the line? What would you do if you had it to do over again? Do I need all the stuff that comes with the most expensive one, or it just nice to have around IN CASE I need it? (Like lots of other tools in my shop.) For work at the bench, I use a Foredom tool with a foot switch. (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^ That's a lot more expensive and a lot better than a Dremel. I found a Proxxon on sale, which I like very much. Even on sale it costs more than a Dremel, but less than a Foredom. The feature of Proxxon which I particularly like is the chuck. It's like a tiny Jacobs chuck, so you are not forever changing collets. My Foredom has a tiny Jacobs chuck in the handpiece. Took me forever finding a chuck key, and one day I found about 200 of them in Reliable Tools for a buck a pop. I bought 4..just in case G Gunner "I mean, when's the last time you heard of a college where the Young Republicans staged a "Sit In" to close down the Humanities building? On the flip side, how many sit in's were staged to close the ROTC building back in the '60's? Liberals stage protests, do civil disobedience, etc. Conservatives talk politely and try to work out a solution to problems through discourse until they believe that talking won't work... they they go home and open the gun cabinets. Pray things never get to the point where the conservatives decide that "civil disobedience" is the next step, because that's a very short route to "voting from the rooftops" Jeffrey Swartz, Misc.Survivalism |
#15
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I missed the staff meeting but the minutes show Gunner
wrote back on Sat, 04 Dec 2004 16:43:18 GMT in rec.crafts.metalworking : The feature of Proxxon which I particularly like is the chuck. It's like a tiny Jacobs chuck, so you are not forever changing collets. My Foredom has a tiny Jacobs chuck in the handpiece. Took me forever finding a chuck key, and one day I found about 200 of them in Reliable Tools for a buck a pop. I bought 4..just in case G One for the tool (attached to cord). One for the tool's case One for the toolbox, And one for the cat to bat around before losing interest? Hmmm - how many cats do you have? You might want to go get a couple more. -- pyotr filipivich. as an explaination for the decline in the US's tech edge, James Niccol wrote "It used to be that the USA was pretty good at producing stuff teenaged boys could lose a finger or two playing with." |
#16
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On Sat, 04 Dec 2004 16:43:18 GMT, Gunner
calmly ranted: My Foredom has a tiny Jacobs chuck in the handpiece. Took me forever finding a chuck key, and one day I found about 200 of them in Reliable Tools for a buck a pop. I bought 4..just in case G I bought the HF version of the Foredom for $50 when they went on sale and used it a few times. Then I moved and couldn't find the bloody chuck key. I went to Medford to the HF there and the manager said "When did you say you bought this?" I told him "Just about a year ago." "Six months, you say? Here, no charge for warranty losses." he said, as he handed a bag with the new teensy chuck key (and a pair of brushes) to me. Happiness is a warm bag. (Now what does that remind me of...? ---------------------------------------------------------------- * OPERA: A Latin word * Wondrous Website Design * meaning * Save your Heirloom Photos * "death by music" * http://www.diversify.com ---------------------------------------------------------------- |
#17
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Lots of posts, but I will add a little.
Stores do not seem to carry the top of the line Dremel, which has electronic speed control, and holds it's speed under load. The mini (1/8 inch chuck) air tools (Dremel equivalent) often turn 50,000 RPM or so, higher than any Dremel. Most of the grinding wheels, cutoff wheels, etc, are probably not rated for 50,000 RPM, and might explode. My favorite bits on a Dremel or a die grinder are carbide burrs, remove even steel quickly. I use the 1/4 inch chuck die grinders very often, they are very impressive, much more powerful than a Dremel. I have a Makita electric that I love, like an oversized dremel. Richard SteveB wrote: I want a Dremel tool. Should I buy a standard Dremel, or the top of the line? What would you do if you had it to do over again? Do I need all the stuff that comes with the most expensive one, or it just nice to have around IN CASE I need it? (Like lots of other tools in my shop.) STeve |
#18
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On Sat, 04 Dec 2004 18:56:19 GMT, pyotr filipivich
wrote: I missed the staff meeting but the minutes show Gunner wrote back on Sat, 04 Dec 2004 16:43:18 GMT in rec.crafts.metalworking : The feature of Proxxon which I particularly like is the chuck. It's like a tiny Jacobs chuck, so you are not forever changing collets. My Foredom has a tiny Jacobs chuck in the handpiece. Took me forever finding a chuck key, and one day I found about 200 of them in Reliable Tools for a buck a pop. I bought 4..just in case G One for the tool (attached to cord). One for the tool's case One for the toolbox, And one for the cat to bat around before losing interest? Hmmm - how many cats do you have? You might want to go get a couple more. Im running a Christmas Special on cats. All visitors must take at least one cat home with them. I figure only real good friends or the unwary will be visiting this year G Ive also got 5 pups that need homes as well as two half grown dogs needing love. They are gonna be good ones. Gunner Gunner "I mean, when's the last time you heard of a college where the Young Republicans staged a "Sit In" to close down the Humanities building? On the flip side, how many sit in's were staged to close the ROTC building back in the '60's? Liberals stage protests, do civil disobedience, etc. Conservatives talk politely and try to work out a solution to problems through discourse until they believe that talking won't work... they they go home and open the gun cabinets. Pray things never get to the point where the conservatives decide that "civil disobedience" is the next step, because that's a very short route to "voting from the rooftops" Jeffrey Swartz, Misc.Survivalism |
#19
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On Sun, 05 Dec 2004 01:13:54 GMT, Richard Ferguson
wrote: Lots of posts, but I will add a little. Stores do not seem to carry the top of the line Dremel, which has electronic speed control, and holds it's speed under load. The mini (1/8 inch chuck) air tools (Dremel equivalent) often turn 50,000 RPM or so, higher than any Dremel. Most of the grinding wheels, cutoff wheels, etc, are probably not rated for 50,000 RPM, and might explode. My favorite bits on a Dremel or a die grinder are carbide burrs, remove even steel quickly. I use the 1/4 inch chuck die grinders very often, they are very impressive, much more powerful than a Dremel. I have a Makita electric that I love, like an oversized dremel. Richard In my service truck, I keep the Ryobi version of the Dremel. 5 speeds. Ive been using it weekly for about 4 yrs now and still runs like a champ. Gunner SteveB wrote: I want a Dremel tool. Should I buy a standard Dremel, or the top of the line? What would you do if you had it to do over again? Do I need all the stuff that comes with the most expensive one, or it just nice to have around IN CASE I need it? (Like lots of other tools in my shop.) STeve "I mean, when's the last time you heard of a college where the Young Republicans staged a "Sit In" to close down the Humanities building? On the flip side, how many sit in's were staged to close the ROTC building back in the '60's? Liberals stage protests, do civil disobedience, etc. Conservatives talk politely and try to work out a solution to problems through discourse until they believe that talking won't work... they they go home and open the gun cabinets. Pray things never get to the point where the conservatives decide that "civil disobedience" is the next step, because that's a very short route to "voting from the rooftops" Jeffrey Swartz, Misc.Survivalism |
#20
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On Sun, 05 Dec 2004 02:36:18 GMT, Gunner
wrote: On Sat, 04 Dec 2004 18:56:19 GMT, pyotr filipivich wrote: I missed the staff meeting but the minutes show Gunner wrote back on Sat, 04 Dec 2004 16:43:18 GMT in rec.crafts.metalworking : The feature of Proxxon which I particularly like is the chuck. It's like a tiny Jacobs chuck, so you are not forever changing collets. My Foredom has a tiny Jacobs chuck in the handpiece. Took me forever finding a chuck key, and one day I found about 200 of them in Reliable Tools for a buck a pop. I bought 4..just in case G One for the tool (attached to cord). One for the tool's case One for the toolbox, And one for the cat to bat around before losing interest? Hmmm - how many cats do you have? You might want to go get a couple more. Im running a Christmas Special on cats. All visitors must take at least one cat home with them. I figure only real good friends or the unwary will be visiting this year G Ive also got 5 pups that need homes as well as two half grown dogs needing love. They are gonna be good ones. Gunner LOL , I was wondering how you'd answer that question. Driving people away till the 1st so you don't feel bad cause they could have had them at after X-Mas special price ? As for Dremels , I still think they should run the other direction. I lost my first one for a yr. and was given an other type then found the other one under the kitchen sink. Wish I could find or make stronger wire wheels for them to get junk out of internal threads. |
#21
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I missed the staff meeting but the minutes show Gunner
wrote back on Sun, 05 Dec 2004 02:36:18 GMT in rec.crafts.metalworking : On Sat, 04 Dec 2004 18:56:19 GMT, pyotr filipivich wrote: I missed the staff meeting but the minutes show Gunner wrote back on Sat, 04 Dec 2004 16:43:18 GMT in rec.crafts.metalworking : The feature of Proxxon which I particularly like is the chuck. It's like a tiny Jacobs chuck, so you are not forever changing collets. My Foredom has a tiny Jacobs chuck in the handpiece. Took me forever finding a chuck key, and one day I found about 200 of them in Reliable Tools for a buck a pop. I bought 4..just in case G One for the tool (attached to cord). One for the tool's case One for the toolbox, And one for the cat to bat around before losing interest? Hmmm - how many cats do you have? You might want to go get a couple more. Im running a Christmas Special on cats. All visitors must take at least one cat home with them. Oops, Pronoun trouble. I should have used a proper noun, so that it reads "You might want to go get a couple more chuck keys." I'm having a surrealistic moment, parsing the song lyric "Chuck Keys in Love" ... I haven't had my coffee this morning. I figure only real good friends or the unwary will be visiting this year G Ive also got 5 pups that need homes as well as two half grown dogs needing love. They are gonna be good ones. Good luck to the dogs, I'm not a big dog person myself. -- pyotr filipivich. as an explaination for the decline in the US's tech edge, James Niccol wrote "It used to be that the USA was pretty good at producing stuff teenaged boys could lose a finger or two playing with." |
#22
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![]() "SteveB" wrote in message news:U48sd.187172$G15.141109@fed1read03... I want a Dremel tool. Should I buy a standard Dremel, or the top of the line? What would you do if you had it to do over again? Do I need all the stuff that comes with the most expensive one, or it just nice to have around IN CASE I need it? (Like lots of other tools in my shop.) STeve You might want to try a Roto-Zip. My choice would be a pneumatic grinder. I have used mine under flowing water to grind glass. Can't do that with an electric grinder. |
#23
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Gunner wrote in
: My Foredom has a tiny Jacobs chuck in the handpiece. Took me forever finding a chuck key, and one day I found about 200 of them in Reliable Tools for a buck a pop. I bought 4..just in case G I've got a couple of Dremel 3-jaw chucks. The "funny" thing is that the won't work well on my older flex shaft but will on my newer one. FWIW, the latest "top-of-the-line" Dremel kit includes a planer and a saw that are both powered by the mototool. |
#24
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"SteveB" wrote in
news:U48sd.187172$G15.141109@fed1read03: I want a Dremel tool. Should I buy a standard Dremel, or the top of the line? What would you do if you had it to do over again? Do I need all the stuff that comes with the most expensive one, or it just nice to have around IN CASE I need it? (Like lots of other tools in my shop.) STeve Go for it! Get the latest-and-greatest top-of-the-line kit: http://www.dremel.com/productdisplay/Display.asp?SKU=400-6/90 comes with some very neat goodies! I have 5 of them at the moment (3 corded VS, 1 2-speed cordless, and a corded VS clone received as a "free gift" from some mail-order bunch) and love them for light work in a variety of materials. 2 of the corded units are semi-permanently dedicated to accessory usage: router and shaper. I'm always finding new uses for them. G If nothing else G it makes it easy for kinfolk to supply me with Birthday and Christmas presents: I'll never complain about duplication! If you have a compressor, though, you might look into a pneumatic flex- shaft unit such as the Campbell-Housefield (sp?) PL153000AV or equivalent. Twice the speed (60K vs. 30K) and no motor housing to mess with. |
#25
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"Forger" wrote in message
... I would buy just the motor tool and some sanding drums and cutoff wheels. I have several, my fav is the variable speed. My least fav was a rechargable that I gave away a few months ago. I've often thought a flexible shaft machine would be better than a dremel. So get a flex shaft for your Dremel! Most of the "better" kits come with a flex shaft and stand. |
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