[Jon Anderson]

Had a brochure years ago for a company that made worm wheels cut to use
standard threaded rod for the worm. Can't find it now. I might well end
up making my own, but at least want to see (if they're still around)
what an off the shelf worm wheel would cost.

Anyone run across, and remember the name of this outfit?


Jon

[Tim Wescott]

On Fri, 02 Dec 2011 08:47:33 -0800, Jon Anderson wrote:

Had a brochure years ago for a company that made worm wheels cut to use
standard threaded rod for the worm. Can't find it now. I might well end
up making my own, but at least want to see (if they're still around)
what an off the shelf worm wheel would cost.

Anyone run across, and remember the name of this outfit?

I'm guessing he

I think that such an assembly would be even more inefficient than a worm
drive. Additionally, it seems that getting proper mesh would be
problematic: a worm gear will have a sort of flat-ish spot that'd give
you a nice broad optimum, while a V-cut would require that you get
everything just right to work. Moreover, the V-cut would tend to always
want to push the gears apart, to a greater extent than a normal worm gear
tooth profile -- put that together with the extra need for accuracy, and
it'd be difficult to keep your assembly in tune.

It sounds like one of those deals that's just too good to be true.

--
My liberal friends think I'm a conservative kook.
My conservative friends think I'm a liberal kook.
Why am I not happy that they have found common ground?

Tim Wescott, Communications, Control, Circuits & Software
http://www.wescottdesign.com

[Lloyd E. Sponenburgh[_3_]]

Jon Anderson fired this volley in
:

Had a brochure years ago for a company that made worm wheels cut to use
standard threaded rod for the worm. Can't find it now. I might well end
up making my own, but at least want to see (if they're still around)
what an off the shelf worm wheel would cost.

Anyone run across, and remember the name of this outfit?


Jon


Jon, I don't remember the company, but I saw a neat demo either here or
on CNCzone that showed a guy making such wheels.

He pivoted the blank on a shaft on a vertical member in his mill vise,
then used a common tap of the requisite thread as a milling tool. He
simply advanced the tap sideways into the edge of the blank a few thou,
and let it cut all the way around, then advanced again, etc., until the
profile was cut full depth.

It was simple, elegant, and worked perfectly.

LLoyd

[Ed Huntress]

On Fri, 02 Dec 2011 12:38:33 -0600, Tim Wescott
wrote:

On Fri, 02 Dec 2011 08:47:33 -0800, Jon Anderson wrote:

Had a brochure years ago for a company that made worm wheels cut to use
standard threaded rod for the worm. Can't find it now. I might well end
up making my own, but at least want to see (if they're still around)
what an off the shelf worm wheel would cost.

Anyone run across, and remember the name of this outfit?

I'm guessing he

I think that such an assembly would be even more inefficient than a worm
drive. Additionally, it seems that getting proper mesh would be
problematic: a worm gear will have a sort of flat-ish spot that'd give
you a nice broad optimum, while a V-cut would require that you get
everything just right to work. Moreover, the V-cut would tend to always
want to push the gears apart, to a greater extent than a normal worm gear
tooth profile -- put that together with the extra need for accuracy, and
it'd be difficult to keep your assembly in tune.

It sounds like one of those deals that's just too good to be true.


I've made several of these things on my lathe with the milling
attachment. One of them is in use right now, on my fishing-rod
rotisserie, which I use for getting the layer of epoxy evenly
distributed on guide windings.

If you're in need of a light-duty worm gear, they work fine. You
chuck an ordinary thread tap in the lathe spindle. First turn a blank
for the gear in the lathe, drilling and boring a hole in the center
for a temporary spindle.

I've used a bolt for the spindle, polishing it up a bit on the lathe.
Chuck the spindle with gear blank in the milling attachment vise (you
can clamp it in a toolpost if you don't have a milling attachment).
Feed the edge of the gear into the rotating tap until it starts to
cut. It will self-feed.

If' you're lucky, it will cut clean, or nearly so, all the way around
the blank. If it's a little rough, keep feeding the blank into the tap
until you get a clean cut. You may have to turn a little bit off of
the blank's periphery to get a clean cut all the way around.

That's all there is to it. If you need an exact number of teeth on the
gear, forget about it. d8-)

--
Ed Huntress

[Jon Anderson]

On 12/2/2011 10:40 AM, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:

He pivoted the blank on a shaft on a vertical member in his mill vise,
then used a common tap of the requisite thread as a milling tool. He
simply advanced the tap sideways into the edge of the blank a few thou,
and let it cut all the way around, then advanced again, etc., until the
profile was cut full depth.

Yeah, that's the technique I'll be using if I end up making it.

The intended use btw, is a vertical column for my macro photography rig.
I'm big into recycling what I got, and I happen to have a Sherline Z slide.
I'll use a different screw with a RH thread. The worm wheel will have a
knob at the end of it's shaft and when this knob is turned, it'll act
like a rack and pinion. When this shaft is locked, I can use the screw
for fine adjustment. Loads will be very light and use rather infrequent
really. I hesitated to mention intended application as that just invites
a lot of input on other ways to do things. I have a lot of options and I
know what they all are. But I like to do things a bit different. I know
what I'm doing and why I'm doing it and not really open to debate.
(however, if someone has a focus block like the vertical one pictured
below they would sell REALLY cheap, I'd jump on that!)

Overall, this is more or less what I'm building:
http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8247

Except I'm using linear slides instead of expensive focusing blocks for
linear movement. And the slide my bellows/camera mounts to will be
driven by stepper motor via a dedicated and purpose built controller.


Jon

[Jon Anderson]

On 12/2/2011 10:38 AM, Tim Wescott wrote:

I think that such an assembly would be even more inefficient than a worm
drive.

You are right. But for my ultra light and infrequent application, not an
issue.


Jon

[axolotl[_2_]]

On 12/2/2011 11:47 AM, Jon Anderson wrote:
Had a brochure years ago for a company that made worm wheels cut to use
standard threaded rod for the worm. Can't find it now. I might well end
up making my own, but at least want to see (if they're still around)
what an off the shelf worm wheel would cost.

Anyone run across, and remember the name of this outfit?


Jon


Here is Chris Heapy's procedu

http://www.astronomiainumbria.org/advanced_internet_files/meccanica/easyweb.easynet.co.uk/_chrish/worms.htm


Kevin Gallimore

[[email protected]]

On Dec 2, 2:23*pm, Jon Anderson wrote:
I hesitated to mention intended application as that just invites
a lot of input on other ways to do things.
Jon

Not so much giving you an input on other ways...............Well yes
it is, but then..........

Can you not use a regular worm gear and Acme threaded rod with the
same pitch?

Dan

[Jon Anderson]

On 12/2/2011 2:12 PM, wrote:

Can you not use a regular worm gear and Acme threaded rod with the
same pitch?


Don't see why not, but I'm looking to either use as much as I can from
my scrap and parts bins, or buy something that'll do the job. If I have
to go buy acme screw stock and a worm wheel and add labor to that, I'm
getting close to the tipping point of just buying a focusing block.
If I could get a post mount focus block for $50, I'd just do that, but
cheapest I've seen one on ebay is around $90.
Spend money and save labor or spend labor and save money. Don't want to
do both... And, I do like the idea of doing something a bit different...


Jon

[Martin Eastburn]

V ? Most threaded rod is a V.

I think you wanted the square based thread used on lathes and mills.
A flat end screw rides in it or a half nut clamps on them.

Either a square thread or an Acme screw thread (most common).

http://www.techno-isel.com/LMC/Products.htm#SCREWS

MSCdirect also has screws.

On 12/2/2011 10:47 AM, Jon Anderson wrote:
Had a brochure years ago for a company that made worm wheels cut to use
standard threaded rod for the worm. Can't find it now. I might well end
up making my own, but at least want to see (if they're still around)
what an off the shelf worm wheel would cost.

Anyone run across, and remember the name of this outfit?


Jon

[[email protected]]

On Fri, 02 Dec 2011 15:19:47 -0800, Jon Anderson
wrote:

On 12/2/2011 2:12 PM, wrote:

Can you not use a regular worm gear and Acme threaded rod with the
same pitch?


Don't see why not, but I'm looking to either use as much as I can from
my scrap and parts bins, or buy something that'll do the job. If I have
to go buy acme screw stock and a worm wheel and add labor to that, I'm
getting close to the tipping point of just buying a focusing block.
If I could get a post mount focus block for $50, I'd just do that, but
cheapest I've seen one on ebay is around $90.
Spend money and save labor or spend labor and save money. Don't want to
do both... And, I do like the idea of doing something a bit different...


Jon

Greetings Jon,
I have made for myself several worms and wormgears using the tap
method. If you decide to go this route use a high spiral tap if you
have one. These taps stay engaged in the work constantly. I have had
no trouble getting the exact numbers of teeth I wanted. I have used
3/8-16, 5/16-18, M8 x 1.25, and other taps of similar size but
different pitches to cut the wheels. I just hold the tap shank in a
collet. The wormgears (AKA wormwheels) I held with a screw screwed
into a piece of steel stock held in a toolholder on the Aloris
toolpost. Making the gears out of brass is easy and I bet you could
make your first one in less than 1/2 hour.
Eric

[Jon Anderson]

On 12/2/2011 9:46 PM, wrote:

I have made for myself several worms and wormgears using the tap
method. If you decide to go this route use a high spiral tap if you
have one. These taps stay engaged in the work constantly.

Excellent tip on the high spiral tap, thanks for that!


Jon

[Jon Anderson]

On 12/2/2011 9:25 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:

I think you wanted the square based thread used on lathes and mills.
A flat end screw rides in it or a half nut clamps on them.

No, I want a V based worm. As mentioned, I know what I want and why I
want it. It's a very low stress application. I like designing things
that work a bit different. Also known as, I enjoy being a weirdo
sometimes... G

Actually I'd use acme rod if I had any suitable acme taps laying around.
But the cutting of light duty vee thread worms is not all that uncommon.
There is a fellow not too far from me that makes tracking mounts for
telescopes. He uses V thread based worms. If it's good enough for
telescope use, it's good enough for me!


Jon

[Jon Anderson]

Well, not trying to be snotty toward everyone telling me I really want
an acme thread, but I did find it annoying to clearly describe what I
wanted and why I wanted it, and still be told that's not what I want.
I know those folks were trying to be helpful.

So I grabbed a box of misc gears, found a small SS pinion that seemed to
roll nicely over a 3/8-16 tap. Took all of 15 minutes to hack up a
really crude 'hobbing' fixture and 'hob' the gear. It rolls very nicely
up and down a 3/8-16 thread as a rack and pinion. When the gear is
locked, it'll act like a nut, allowing fine adjustment.

I WILL post pictures of this setup when done, as well as a shot of the
'hobbing' setup. It's now a done deal, I just have to finish my
brother's macro rig so I can start on mine...


Jon

[Jon Anderson]

Ok, here's a couple quickie shots. It's rude, crude, and ugly.
And it'll do exactly what I want. Therefore in my eyes, it's beautiful!

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/lWBNnCM3UgXEVXhw-ZsNDZ7fzYmlYFVNVB_Uxv1I2UA?feat=directlink

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/RmcRcsTBy8uI3-J7aVCtzZ7fzYmlYFVNVB_Uxv1I2UA?feat=directlink

Should have just done it and been done with it. The manufactured version
of what I originally asked about probably would have cost more than I
wanted to spend anyway...


Jon

[Ed Huntress]

On Sat, 03 Dec 2011 10:18:04 -0800, Jon Anderson
wrote:

Ok, here's a couple quickie shots. It's rude, crude, and ugly.
And it'll do exactly what I want. Therefore in my eyes, it's beautiful!

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/lWBNnCM3UgXEVXhw-ZsNDZ7fzYmlYFVNVB_Uxv1I2UA?feat=directlink

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/RmcRcsTBy8uI3-J7aVCtzZ7fzYmlYFVNVB_Uxv1I2UA?feat=directlink

Should have just done it and been done with it. The manufactured version
of what I originally asked about probably would have cost more than I
wanted to spend anyway...


Jon


Very nice, Jon. Man, that gear is tiny, relative to the pitch of the
worm. Your ratio is down around what you would expect to get from
regular bevelled gears.

I'm assuming that you want the binding effect that prevents the gear
from driving the pinion? Or you're looking for more smoothness than
you can get with ordinary-quality bevel gears?

Or what?

--
Ed Huntress

[Jon Anderson]

On 12/3/2011 10:32 AM, Ed Huntress wrote:

I'm assuming that you want the binding effect that prevents the gear
from driving the pinion? Or you're looking for more smoothness than
you can get with ordinary-quality bevel gears?

Or what?

Ok, full description:

As I mentioned in the original thread, I wanted a focusing block that
mounts on a round shaft, but haven't found any in my price range. The
Sherline Z slide offers all the vertical travel I need.
I was just going to use the column as-is until I realized it would be
rather slow to run it up and down it's full range.

I'll make a new thrust plate at the top to move the screw away from the
column a bit. It will pass through a closely fitted hole in a block that
is also fastened to the back of the Z slide.
90 degrees to this screw, will be the gear I just hobbed, on a shaft,
with a knob at one end. There will be a provision to clamp this shaft.

When the vertical screw is stationary and the gear's shaft unlocked, it
will allow raising and lowering the slide just like a rack and pinion.

When I lock this shaft and rotate the vertical screw, it will function
just like the original screw, allowing for finer adjustment.
To sum it up then, it will function as both a pinion on rack, and a
leadscrew w/nut.

My brother, having more $$ to spend on his rig, is using a crossed
roller slide with micrometer head for fine adjustments, mounted to a
post for course adjustments. I have a lower budget for my rig and was
looking to use stuff I have on hand (the Sherline slide). I'm also
probably not going to be working at the extreme magnifications he's
going after and a 3/8-16 thread will offer sufficiently fine control.

The gear rolls over a 3/8-16 bolt just as smoothly as a regular pinion
over a rack. I chose it as it rolled over the tap almost as smoothly
before hobbing.

I'll post pics when done, but that will be well into next year. Still
have a lot of work to do on my brothers setup.


Jon

[Gunner Asch[_6_]]

On Sat, 03 Dec 2011 10:18:04 -0800, Jon Anderson
wrote:

Ok, here's a couple quickie shots. It's rude, crude, and ugly.
And it'll do exactly what I want. Therefore in my eyes, it's beautiful!

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/lWBNnCM3UgXEVXhw-ZsNDZ7fzYmlYFVNVB_Uxv1I2UA?feat=directlink

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/RmcRcsTBy8uI3-J7aVCtzZ7fzYmlYFVNVB_Uxv1I2UA?feat=directlink

Should have just done it and been done with it. The manufactured version
of what I originally asked about probably would have cost more than I
wanted to spend anyway...


Jon

Yah Buddy..thats the ticket!!

Nicely done Jon!

Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch

[[email protected]]

On Sat, 03 Dec 2011 09:01:54 -0800, Jon Anderson
wrote:

On 12/2/2011 9:46 PM, wrote:

I have made for myself several worms and wormgears using the tap
method. If you decide to go this route use a high spiral tap if you
have one. These taps stay engaged in the work constantly.

Excellent tip on the high spiral tap, thanks for that!


Jon
You're welcome.
Eric

[[email protected]]

On Dec 3, 12:40*pm, Jon Anderson wrote:
Well, not trying to be snotty toward everyone telling me I really want
an acme thread, but I did find it annoying to clearly describe what I
wanted and why I wanted it, and still be told that's not what I want.
I know those folks were trying to be helpful.

Jon

I was not trying to say that you really wanted an Acme thread. But if
you could not find the vendor of Vee worm wheels, you could use a
common worm wheel with an
Acme threaded rod.

Dan

[Jon Anderson]

On 12/3/2011 7:29 PM, wrote:

I was not trying to say that you really wanted an Acme thread. But if
you could not find the vendor of Vee worm wheels, you could use a
common worm wheel with an
Acme threaded rod.


Dan,

That was directed more at posts suggesting what I was trying to do
wouldn't work well. And they would be right if any significant force was
to be transmitted. All in all, maybe I should have spelled out the
details up front. But there's usually a naysayer that will pipe up
anyway, that's the nature of usenet. My problem is I feel compelled to
explain everything instead of ignoring them.

I wasn't sure I could get a worm wheel that would run on standard Acme
threaded rod, but one thing that made me think of the vee worm wheels
was the claim they were significantly cheaper than a proper worm wheel.
Of course, hobbing a gear that's been sitting in a box for the last 20
years with a tap is cheaper yet. I'm not exactly McGyver, but I do enjoy
figuring out how to do what I want to do using as much as possible, bits
and pieces I have laying around. And I have lots of bits and pieces
laying around...


Jon

[[email protected]]

On Dec 3, 10:53*pm, Jon Anderson wrote:


That was directed more at posts suggesting what I was trying to do
wouldn't work well. And they would be right if any significant force was
to be transmitted. All in all, maybe I should have spelled out the
details up front. But there's usually a naysayer that will pipe up
anyway, that's the nature of usenet. My problem is I feel compelled to
explain everything instead of ignoring them.


Jon

I am probably a bit sensitive because I knew it was not what you
really wanted, but posted it anyway.

Dan

[Jon Anderson]

On 12/3/2011 8:00 PM, wrote:

I am probably a bit sensitive because I knew it was not what you
really wanted, but posted it anyway.

Well, I apologize to you and to all. When folks are trying to be
helpful, I should just quietly ignore suggestions not relevant to the
task at hand.

But it all became moot as of this morning. I'd decided to go with a
small THK linear rail setup for my actual focusing setup as I wasn't
seeing any microscope focusing blocks on ebay with the dual course/fine
feed knobs, at a price I could afford. Gross overkill, but easy to
modify to the task. But still had the searches running. This morning,
found one just listed for $27. Needless to say, I bagged it on the spot
Then, went to see what else the guy had, and there was the post mount
focusing block I've been looking for for the past 6 weeks, $15. Goes
without saying, I bagged that as well!

So I'll have to find some other application for my
worm-screw/pinion-rack idea...


Jon

[Ed Huntress]

On Sat, 03 Dec 2011 11:07:18 -0800, Jon Anderson
wrote:

On 12/3/2011 10:32 AM, Ed Huntress wrote:

I'm assuming that you want the binding effect that prevents the gear
from driving the pinion? Or you're looking for more smoothness than
you can get with ordinary-quality bevel gears?

Or what?

Ok, full description:

As I mentioned in the original thread, I wanted a focusing block that
mounts on a round shaft, but haven't found any in my price range. The
Sherline Z slide offers all the vertical travel I need.
I was just going to use the column as-is until I realized it would be
rather slow to run it up and down it's full range.

I'll make a new thrust plate at the top to move the screw away from the
column a bit. It will pass through a closely fitted hole in a block that
is also fastened to the back of the Z slide.
90 degrees to this screw, will be the gear I just hobbed, on a shaft,
with a knob at one end. There will be a provision to clamp this shaft.

When the vertical screw is stationary and the gear's shaft unlocked, it
will allow raising and lowering the slide just like a rack and pinion.

When I lock this shaft and rotate the vertical screw, it will function
just like the original screw, allowing for finer adjustment.
To sum it up then, it will function as both a pinion on rack, and a
leadscrew w/nut.

My brother, having more $$ to spend on his rig, is using a crossed
roller slide with micrometer head for fine adjustments, mounted to a
post for course adjustments. I have a lower budget for my rig and was
looking to use stuff I have on hand (the Sherline slide). I'm also
probably not going to be working at the extreme magnifications he's
going after and a 3/8-16 thread will offer sufficiently fine control.

The gear rolls over a 3/8-16 bolt just as smoothly as a regular pinion
over a rack. I chose it as it rolled over the tap almost as smoothly
before hobbing.

I'll post pics when done, but that will be well into next year. Still
have a lot of work to do on my brothers setup.


Jon

Ok, I think I have the picture. Not having shopped around, I don't
know what prices are of commercial components, but this is something
for which, a couple of decades ago, I would have reached first for the
Berg catalog.

BTW, if you're interested in a fine piece of photo equipment that has
a nice micro slide that can be removed and used alone, I have a
perfect-condition Bowens Illumitran that I might part with, if I knew
it was getting a good home. d8-)

--
Ed Huntress

[Jon Anderson]

On 12/5/2011 6:40 AM, Ed Huntress wrote:

Ok, I think I have the picture. Not having shopped around, I don't
know what prices are of commercial components, but this is something
for which, a couple of decades ago, I would have reached first for the
Berg catalog.

Well, I spent 30 years collecting all sorts of stuff. Back when I
started, money was very very tight for any sort of projects. I've always
been a fan of making stuff out of other stuff even if the design isn't
optimal, so long as it functions well enough for the task. I guess I'm a
borderline hoarder... G Pretty easy to design and make functional
stuff with sufficient catalogs to shop from. Not everyone can look at a
pile of crap, er, stuff, and make something useful out of it. There is
of course, a big difference between designing for manufacturing, and
designing for personal use, to save $$.


BTW, if you're interested in a fine piece of photo equipment that has
a nice micro slide that can be removed and used alone, I have a
perfect-condition Bowens Illumitran that I might part with, if I knew
it was getting a good home. d8-)

Did a quick Google search on images, looks very interesting. But kinda
big for shipping. How much do you want, and how much does it weigh?
That could see a fair bit of use as is, I've got hundreds of slides I'd
scanned, but would love to copy with my camera. I shoot in RAW and can
do so much more WRT restoration than with scans.


Jon

[Ed Huntress]

On Mon, 05 Dec 2011 11:24:55 -0800, Jon Anderson
wrote:

On 12/5/2011 6:40 AM, Ed Huntress wrote:

Ok, I think I have the picture. Not having shopped around, I don't
know what prices are of commercial components, but this is something
for which, a couple of decades ago, I would have reached first for the
Berg catalog.

Well, I spent 30 years collecting all sorts of stuff. Back when I
started, money was very very tight for any sort of projects. I've always
been a fan of making stuff out of other stuff even if the design isn't
optimal, so long as it functions well enough for the task. I guess I'm a
borderline hoarder... G Pretty easy to design and make functional
stuff with sufficient catalogs to shop from. Not everyone can look at a
pile of crap, er, stuff, and make something useful out of it. There is
of course, a big difference between designing for manufacturing, and
designing for personal use, to save $$.


BTW, if you're interested in a fine piece of photo equipment that has
a nice micro slide that can be removed and used alone, I have a
perfect-condition Bowens Illumitran that I might part with, if I knew
it was getting a good home. d8-)

Did a quick Google search on images, looks very interesting. But kinda
big for shipping. How much do you want, and how much does it weigh?
That could see a fair bit of use as is, I've got hundreds of slides I'd
scanned, but would love to copy with my camera. I shoot in RAW and can
do so much more WRT restoration than with scans.


Jon

It's a professional piece of equipment. I used it mostly to produce
slide shows from mixed-format originals, since I used to shoot a lot
of 4x5 and 6x7cm transparency film. And I used it to make internegs.

I'll dig it out tomorrow and see what I have with it. I think I still
have the Schneider 50mm enlarging lens that I used for most copying.
I've also used it with a 50mm Nikon and a 75mm Nikon enlarging lens; a
55mm Micro-Nikkor; and, with a jerry-rigged setup, a Schneider process
lens for the view camera.

If I forget, remind me in a day or two. I'm swamped.

BTW, if you're into these things, I also have a bulb-release
behind-the-lens shutter for barrel-mounted view-camera and process
lenses, which I no longer need. It never saw much use but it did save
my bacon for some multiple-exposure shots. One made the cover of
American Machinist back around 1980.

--
Ed Huntress

[Gunner Asch[_6_]]

On Mon, 05 Dec 2011 11:24:55 -0800, Jon Anderson
wrote:


BTW, if you're interested in a fine piece of photo equipment that has
a nice micro slide that can be removed and used alone, I have a
perfect-condition Bowens Illumitran that I might part with, if I knew
it was getting a good home. d8-)

Did a quick Google search on images, looks very interesting. But kinda
big for shipping. How much do you want, and how much does it weigh?
That could see a fair bit of use as is, I've got hundreds of slides I'd
scanned, but would love to copy with my camera. I shoot in RAW and can
do so much more WRT restoration than with scans.


Jon

That is a fine and generous offer. The Illumitrans is one of the
absolute best slide copiers ever made. Bar none.

On the other hand..the digital scanners are pretty good these days as
well, and dont require adapters and whatnot.

This is what I use..but its only good for 35mm and smaller.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-FS1200-D...-/270866116351

Ed is making a very kind offer!

Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch

[Jon Anderson]

On 12/5/2011 4:53 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:

On the other hand..the digital scanners are pretty good these days as
well, and dont require adapters and whatnot.

I have an Epson Perfection 2400. It does a pretty good job with slides
and negatives, but scans only to jpg. With my Sony I can shoot in RAW
and that gives me more options and flexibility in adjusting colors. Most
of the slides were shot by my uncle in the 50's and have a distinctly
bluish tint. I'm not sure if it's the film used, or age, but I know the
colors are not correct.

Ed is making a very kind offer!

Well unless told otherwise, I'm assuming it's an offer to sell. Have a
limited budget, but sure am very interested!


BTW, I emailed you a link to a few of my initial attempts at digital
infrared photography, did you get that?


Jon

[Bob Engelhardt]

Jon Anderson wrote:
... Most
of the slides were shot by my uncle in the 50's and have a distinctly
bluish tint. ...

Losing the red? IIRC, that happens to Ektachrome(?) Bob

[Jon Anderson]

On 12/6/2011 7:50 AM, Bob Engelhardt wrote:

Losing the red? IIRC, that happens to Ektachrome(?)

Could be, I'm not an expert on vintage slide film by any means.
Overwhelming majority of the shots are outdoors and show a deep blue sky
that strongly suggests polarizing filter. But even the indoor shots have
a bluish tint. Don't know just how far I can go in trying to restore
natural color, I'm a noob with RAW files, LR3 and CS4. I know I can do a
fair bit just with JPG's, but RAW should give even more control.


Jon

[Ed Huntress]

On Tue, 06 Dec 2011 09:08:07 -0800, Jon Anderson
wrote:

On 12/6/2011 7:50 AM, Bob Engelhardt wrote:

Losing the red? IIRC, that happens to Ektachrome(?)

Could be, I'm not an expert on vintage slide film by any means.
Overwhelming majority of the shots are outdoors and show a deep blue sky
that strongly suggests polarizing filter. But even the indoor shots have
a bluish tint. Don't know just how far I can go in trying to restore
natural color, I'm a noob with RAW files, LR3 and CS4. I know I can do a
fair bit just with JPG's, but RAW should give even more control.


Jon

Ektachrome colorr shifts start with the yellow layer fading, then the
cyan, then the magenta. You're probably seeing yellow-layer loss.

Don't project them before you copy them; it would make them worse.
With Photoshop or equivalent (I use Gimp these days, although I spent
20 years with Photoshop), you may be able to restore the balance if
the yellow layer isn't nearly gone. If it is, you'll have to live with
whatever resorative shifts you can get.

--
Ed Huntress

[Martin Eastburn]

That is strange, I have Ektachrome I developed myself using E3 and E4
process kits overseas and those are doing well. The Kodachrome
processed by Kodak - a dye process - those are turning a little.

I've kept them all in a air stifled box - closed, but able to breath
through the box itself. Others are in slide trays in double lapped boxes.

Martin

On 12/6/2011 9:50 AM, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
Jon Anderson wrote:
... Most of the slides were shot by my uncle in the 50's and have a
distinctly bluish tint. ...

Losing the red? IIRC, that happens to Ektachrome(?) Bob

[Bob Engelhardt]

Martin Eastburn wrote:
That is strange, I have Ektachrome I developed myself using E3 and E4
process kits overseas and those are doing well. The Kodachrome
processed by Kodak - a dye process - those are turning a little.
...

Probably not so strange - probably more a matter of my not remembering
the film. Ed seems to have a much better answer. Bob

[Gunner Asch[_6_]]

On Tue, 06 Dec 2011 21:27:53 -0600, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

That is strange, I have Ektachrome I developed myself using E3 and E4
process kits overseas and those are doing well. The Kodachrome
processed by Kodak - a dye process - those are turning a little.

I've kept them all in a air stifled box - closed, but able to breath
through the box itself. Others are in slide trays in double lapped boxes.

Martin

Same here. Ive got Ektachrome going back to the mid 60s with little
color change. Ektachrome does tend to be bluish in the first
place...shrug

My Kodachrome is still doing fine, and some of its been stored in 120F
temps

Gunner


On 12/6/2011 9:50 AM, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
Jon Anderson wrote:
... Most of the slides were shot by my uncle in the 50's and have a
distinctly bluish tint. ...

Losing the red? IIRC, that happens to Ektachrome(?) Bob

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch