Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
Woodworking (rec.woodworking) Discussion forum covering all aspects of working with wood. All levels of expertise are encouraged to particiapte. |
Reply |
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Bending EMT
I learned tonight that my wall joints and ceiling joists don't coincide at the ends. So I'm faced with the following EMT-bending task (illustrated on my web site): http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/ Upon confronting the problem, it stopped me in my tracks. But I think I have a better grip on it now, after making the sketch. It achieves a bend what would be 270 degrees if done in a naive way, in less than 180. The hard part seems to be getting over the side of the lower stud --which I think may perhaps be best achieved with a long gradual bend away from the stud. IIRC, EMT only needs to be clamped every 10 feet, so this may be less of a problem than I thought it was at first. I think I will be smart to just practice the fit and then use EMT end-to-end connectors when I achieve a bend that will get the job done. I'll have to check the NEC to be sure those conectors don't need to be accessible. If you have any suggestions for me, I'm paying close attention! : ) Yes, I have an EMT bender, a hacksaw, and three 8' pieces to run through before I need to go back to the store! Bill |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Bending EMT
Bill wrote:
I learned tonight that my wall joints and ceiling joists don't coincide at the ends. So I'm faced with the following EMT-bending task (illustrated on my web site): http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/ Upon confronting the problem, it stopped me in my tracks. But I think I have a better grip on it now, after making the sketch. It achieves a bend what would be 270 degrees if done in a naive way, in less than 180. The hard part seems to be getting over the side of the lower stud --which I think may perhaps be best achieved with a long gradual bend away from the stud. Couple of questions Bill - why bother going down the side of the stud? Why not just go straight down the wall? If there is a reason to go down the stud, then I'd suggest a simple offset bend, which should be detailed in the manual for your bender. If not, there are a ton of very good youtube videos on bending EMT. As for the 270 degrees - I don't see that. Where are you coming up with that? I see a 90 with an offset. I think I will be smart to just practice the fit and then use EMT end-to-end connectors when I achieve a bend that will get the job done. I'll have to check the NEC to be sure those conectors don't need to be accessible. No they do not need to be accessable. There is no juction inside the EMT, so no need for accessability. -- -Mike- |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Bending EMT
On Mon, 09 Jul 2012 05:20:41 -0400, Bill wrote:
I learned tonight that my wall joints and ceiling joists don't coincide at the ends. So I'm faced with the following EMT-bending task (illustrated on my web site): http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/ Upon confronting the problem, it stopped me in my tracks. But I think I have a better grip on it now, after making the sketch. It achieves a bend what would be 270 degrees if done in a naive way, in less than 180. The hard part seems to be getting over the side of the lower stud --which I think may perhaps be best achieved with a long gradual bend away from the stud. IIRC, EMT only needs to be clamped every 10 feet, so this may be less of a problem than I thought it was at first. I think I will be smart to just practice the fit and then use EMT end-to-end connectors when I achieve a bend that will get the job done. I'll have to check the NEC to be sure those conectors don't need to be accessible. If you have any suggestions for me, I'm paying close attention! : ) Yes, I have an EMT bender, a hacksaw, and three 8' pieces to run through before I need to go back to the store! Bill I'm assuming you don't have drywall up at this point. If you have done a lot of pipe bending that may take some doing. Have you considered adding a cross piece between the ceiling 2x4's so you can just make a 90 and keep it simple. Mike M |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Bending EMT
On 7/9/2012 5:20 AM, Bill wrote:
I learned tonight that my wall joints and ceiling joists don't coincide at the ends. So I'm faced with the following EMT-bending task (illustrated on my web site): http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/ Upon confronting the problem, it stopped me in my tracks. But I think I have a better grip on it now, after making the sketch. It achieves a bend what would be 270 degrees if done in a naive way, in less than 180. The hard part seems to be getting over the side of the lower stud --which I think may perhaps be best achieved with a long gradual bend away from the stud. IIRC, EMT only needs to be clamped every 10 feet, so this may be less of a problem than I thought it was at first. I think I will be smart to just practice the fit and then use EMT end-to-end connectors when I achieve a bend that will get the job done. I'll have to check the NEC to be sure those conectors don't need to be accessible. If you have any suggestions for me, I'm paying close attention! : ) Yes, I have an EMT bender, a hacksaw, and three 8' pieces to run through before I need to go back to the store! Bill You haven't told us why it needs to be in that particular configuration, but if it does, perhaps Greenfield would be the way to go? http://www.flex-tubes.com/greenfield...e-conduit.html |
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Bending EMT
On 7/9/2012 1:33 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 7/9/2012 5:20 AM, Bill wrote: I learned tonight that my wall joints and ceiling joists don't coincide at the ends. So I'm faced with the following EMT-bending task (illustrated on my web site): http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/ Upon confronting the problem, it stopped me in my tracks. But I think I have a better grip on it now, after making the sketch. It achieves a bend what would be 270 degrees if done in a naive way, in less than 180. The hard part seems to be getting over the side of the lower stud --which I think may perhaps be best achieved with a long gradual bend away from the stud. IIRC, EMT only needs to be clamped every 10 feet, so this may be less of a problem than I thought it was at first. I think I will be smart to just practice the fit and then use EMT end-to-end connectors when I achieve a bend that will get the job done. I'll have to check the NEC to be sure those conectors don't need to be accessible. If you have any suggestions for me, I'm paying close attention! : ) Yes, I have an EMT bender, a hacksaw, and three 8' pieces to run through before I need to go back to the store! Bill You haven't told us why it needs to be in that particular configuration, but if it does, perhaps Greenfield would be the way to go? http://www.flex-tubes.com/greenfield...e-conduit.html In case I wasn't clear, I was suggesting Greenfield flexible tubing for the complex curve part only. You could attach it to the EMT with connectors. |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Bending EMT
On Mon, 09 Jul 2012 09:29:57 -0700, Mike M
wrote: On Mon, 09 Jul 2012 05:20:41 -0400, Bill wrote: I learned tonight that my wall joints and ceiling joists don't coincide at the ends. So I'm faced with the following EMT-bending task (illustrated on my web site): http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/ Upon confronting the problem, it stopped me in my tracks. But I think I have a better grip on it now, after making the sketch. It achieves a bend what would be 270 degrees if done in a naive way, in less than 180. The hard part seems to be getting over the side of the lower stud --which I think may perhaps be best achieved with a long gradual bend away from the stud. IIRC, EMT only needs to be clamped every 10 feet, so this may be less of a problem than I thought it was at first. I think I will be smart to just practice the fit and then use EMT end-to-end connectors when I achieve a bend that will get the job done. I'll have to check the NEC to be sure those conectors don't need to be accessible. If you have any suggestions for me, I'm paying close attention! : ) Yes, I have an EMT bender, a hacksaw, and three 8' pieces to run through before I need to go back to the store! Bill I'm assuming you don't have drywall up at this point. If you have done a lot of pipe bending that may take some doing. Have you considered adding a cross piece between the ceiling 2x4's so you can just make a 90 and keep it simple. Mike M You could alwats throw in a section of flexible metal conduit?? Liquid-Tite from Delikon would do the job. Dead simple to use and install, and totally code compliant anywhere EMT will work. |
#7
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Bending EMT
Mike M wrote:
On Mon, 09 Jul 2012 05:20:41 -0400, Bill wrote: I learned tonight that my wall joints and ceiling joists don't coincide at the ends. So I'm faced with the following EMT-bending task (illustrated on my web site): http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/ Upon confronting the problem, it stopped me in my tracks. But I think I have a better grip on it now, after making the sketch. It achieves a bend what would be 270 degrees if done in a naive way, in less than 180. The hard part seems to be getting over the side of the lower stud --which I think may perhaps be best achieved with a long gradual bend away from the stud. IIRC, EMT only needs to be clamped every 10 feet, so this may be less of a problem than I thought it was at first. I think I will be smart to just practice the fit and then use EMT end-to-end connectors when I achieve a bend that will get the job done. I'll have to check the NEC to be sure those conectors don't need to be accessible. If you have any suggestions for me, I'm paying close attention! : ) Yes, I have an EMT bender, a hacksaw, and three 8' pieces to run through before I need to go back to the store! Bill I'm assuming you don't have drywall up at this point. If you have done a lot of pipe bending that may take some doing. Have you considered adding a cross piece between the ceiling 2x4's so you can just make a 90 and keep it simple. Mike M I do have drywall on the ceiling, I removed it on this area of the wall to replace the switchbox and add the EMT. Thank you for looking--I'm sorry my diagram wasn't clearer. |
#8
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Bending EMT
Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote: I learned tonight that my wall joints and ceiling joists don't coincide at the ends. So I'm faced with the following EMT-bending task (illustrated on my web site): http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/ Upon confronting the problem, it stopped me in my tracks. But I think I have a better grip on it now, after making the sketch. It achieves a bend what would be 270 degrees if done in a naive way, in less than 180. The hard part seems to be getting over the side of the lower stud --which I think may perhaps be best achieved with a long gradual bend away from the stud. Couple of questions Bill - why bother going down the side of the stud? Why not just go straight down the wall? I wavered at first, but in the end (last summer) decided an external 3-switch box looked too darn ugly for me next to the door! I took it back rather than installing it. If there is a reason to go down the stud, then I'd suggest a simple offset bend, which should be detailed in the manual for your bender. I have no manual, but I appreciate your sharing the terminology (which I can use for a search). If not, there are a ton of very good youtube videos on bending EMT. As for the 270 degrees - I don't see that. Where are you coming up with that? I see a 90 with an offset. I watched a bunch of videos once upon a time. I may get a refresher before I start eating EMT. Yes, it's 90 with an offset. Left 90, up 90, and over 90 makes the connection in a "naive" way. How do they measure "90 with an offset"--90 + 22.5 ? I think I will be smart to just practice the fit and then use EMT end-to-end connectors when I achieve a bend that will get the job done. I'll have to check the NEC to be sure those conectors don't need to be accessible. No they do not need to be accessable. There is no juction inside the EMT, so no need for accessability. Cool, thanks! |
#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Bending EMT
Mike M wrote:
If you haven't done a lot of pipe bending that may take some doing. I haven't done ANY pipe bending yet, but after making the picture, I think I may be able to do it in less time than it took me to make the picture! I felt better after it occurred to me I could use a connector, because then I only need to screw up a 3-4 foot section at a time. That gives me 2 tries for $2! How hard can it be, right? I'll let you know how it goes... Cheers, Bill P.S. This problem is under my skin now! Between me and the EMT, one of us is going to yield! : ) Mike M |
#11
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Bending EMT
On Mon, 09 Jul 2012 05:20:41 -0400, Bill wrote:
I learned tonight that my wall joints and ceiling joists don't coincide at the ends. So I'm faced with the following EMT-bending task (illustrated on my web site): http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/ Upon confronting the problem, it stopped me in my tracks. But I think I have a better grip on it now, after making the sketch. It achieves a bend what would be 270 degrees if done in a naive way, in less than 180. The hard part seems to be getting over the side of the lower stud --which I think may perhaps be best achieved with a long gradual bend away from the stud. IIRC, EMT only needs to be clamped every 10 feet, so this may be less of a problem than I thought it was at first. I think I will be smart to just practice the fit and then use EMT end-to-end connectors when I achieve a bend that will get the job done. I'll have to check the NEC to be sure those conectors don't need to be accessible. If you have any suggestions for me, I'm paying close attention! : ) 3 possibles: 1) Use flexible emt for the bends if allowed by the NEC (or not 2) Fab up a solid rod which can fit in the emt so you can clamp it tightly while bending it, preventing it from twisting while you make the compound angle bends. (Weld a doglegged rod to a thick flat plate with a hole in it so you can bolt it down, holding that bottom end while bending, KWIM,V?) 3) Have a friend who's an electrician bend it for you. Oh, a 4th is to run the emt at an angle to the lights, thoroughly irritating the owner of the shop. LOL! Yes, I have an EMT bender, a hacksaw, and three 8' pieces to run through before I need to go back to the store! g -- It is common sense to take a method and try it. If it fails, admit it frankly and try another. But above all, try something. -- Franklin D. Roosevelt |
#12
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Bending EMT
Larry Jaques wrote:
2) Fab up a solid rod which can fit in the emt so you can clamp it tightly while bending it, preventing it from twisting while you make the compound angle bends. (Weld a doglegged rod to a thick flat plate with a hole in it so you can bolt it down, holding that bottom end while bending, KWIM,V?) Holy Cow Larry - that's way over the top. Much easier to just use the bender... -- -Mike- |
#13
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Bending EMT
Mike Marlow wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote: 2) Fab up a solid rod which can fit in the emt so you can clamp it tightly while bending it, preventing it from twisting while you make the compound angle bends. (Weld a doglegged rod to a thick flat plate with a hole in it so you can bolt it down, holding that bottom end while bending, KWIM,V?) Holy Cow Larry - that's way over the top. Much easier to just use the bender... It got dark on me too early today. I'll give it "the ol' college try" tomorrow. If I should fail my bending test, I'll go the FMC route. |
#14
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Bending EMT
Mike Marlow wrote:
I see a 90 with an offset. To achieve 90 degree angle with a 3" offset: Using 4 bends of 22 degrees, the muliplier (from right angle trig) is 1/sin 22 is about 2.7, so 4*2.7 =10.8" appear to be required. So, I would distribute the four 22 degree bends evenly along 10.8" of EMT. Please correct me as necessary, and mention how many bends would you use for the same problem. Give some consideration to the final appearance. Bill |
#15
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Bending EMT
Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote: I see a 90 with an offset. To achieve 90 degree angle with a 3" offset: Using 4 bends of 22 degrees, the muliplier (from right angle trig) is 1/sin 22 is about 2.7, so 4*2.7 =10.8" appear to be required. So, I would distribute the four 22 degree bends evenly along 10.8" of EMT. Please correct me as necessary, and mention how many bends would you use for the same problem. Give some consideration to the final appearance. You've lost me Bill. Why not just bend the 90, and then bend an offset below the 90, to run down the stud? Or, as I asked in a previous post - why are you bothering to run it down the stud at all? It can run down the sheet rock, just fine. Use a good style hollow wall anchor to clamp it to the wall. Here is an excellent link you may want to hold on to for reference, on bending EMT. http://www.cefga.org/documents/BendingRaceways.pdf -- -Mike- |
#16
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Bending EMT
On 7/10/2012 6:51 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote: Mike Marlow wrote: I see a 90 with an offset. To achieve 90 degree angle with a 3" offset: Using 4 bends of 22 degrees, the muliplier (from right angle trig) is 1/sin 22 is about 2.7, so 4*2.7 =10.8" appear to be required. So, I would distribute the four 22 degree bends evenly along 10.8" of EMT. Please correct me as necessary, and mention how many bends would you use for the same problem. Give some consideration to the final appearance. You've lost me Bill. Why not just bend the 90, and then bend an offset below the 90, to run down the stud? Or, as I asked in a previous post - why are you bothering to run it down the stud at all? It can run down the sheet rock, just fine. Use a good style hollow wall anchor to clamp it to the wall. .... Note the actual offset will have to be 3" _plus_ (say 3/4" assuming nominal tubaX thickness) for the centerline of the joist _plus_ the half-diameter of the conduit (doesn't say whether this is 1/2 or 3/4) to get centerlines in right position--namely on the centerline of the joist and flush against the side of the stud. There are many similar to that in the old barn here done in a couple of patterns; either looks fine. The easiest to do is to put the offset in the plane of the ceiling (horizontal iow) and far enough away for the 90 to matchup directly perpendicular to the wall (parallel to the run of the joist). Or, the easy way out if the suggestion to not mount on surface is rejected--use a transition flex conduit piece. -- |
#17
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Bending EMT
On Mon, 09 Jul 2012 23:37:15 -0400, Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote: Larry Jaques wrote: 2) Fab up a solid rod which can fit in the emt so you can clamp it tightly while bending it, preventing it from twisting while you make the compound angle bends. (Weld a doglegged rod to a thick flat plate with a hole in it so you can bolt it down, holding that bottom end while bending, KWIM,V?) Holy Cow Larry - that's way over the top. Much easier to just use the bender... OK, then bend the 10' stick 90 degrees at the midpoint to give you a way to hold it while bending a compound angle. Someting has to hold it very, very tightly while it's being bent. It got dark on me too early today. I'll give it "the ol' college try" tomorrow. If I should fail my bending test, I'll go the FMC route. Crap, Bill. Don't you have one of these? http://tinyurl.com/7x6bdp3 That or the dual-lamp type are enough to light up a white-painted shop really well for work on the fluors. Also, I forgot to mention a 5th possibility: you could string the wire through the individual pieces cut to make the bends, then tighten them together. Use discrete components (conduit and coupler) a few inches long if you need to. No bending required. -- It is common sense to take a method and try it. If it fails, admit it frankly and try another. But above all, try something. -- Franklin D. Roosevelt |
#18
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Bending EMT
dpb wrote:
On 7/10/2012 6:51 AM, Mike Marlow wrote: Bill wrote: Mike Marlow wrote: I see a 90 with an offset. To achieve 90 degree angle with a 3" offset: Using 4 bends of 22 degrees, the muliplier (from right angle trig) is 1/sin 22 is about 2.7, so 4*2.7 =10.8" appear to be required. So, I would distribute the four 22 degree bends evenly along 10.8" of EMT. Please correct me as necessary, and mention how many bends would you use for the same problem. Give some consideration to the final appearance. You've lost me Bill. Why not just bend the 90, and then bend an offset below the 90, to run down the stud? Or, as I asked in a previous post - why are you bothering to run it down the stud at all? It can run down the sheet rock, just fine. Use a good style hollow wall anchor to clamp it to the wall. ... Note the actual offset will have to be 3" _plus_ (say 3/4" assuming nominal tubaX thickness) for the centerline of the joist _plus_ the half-diameter of the conduit (doesn't say whether this is 1/2 or 3/4) to get centerlines in right position--namely on the centerline of the joist and flush against the side of the stud. There are many similar to that in the old barn here done in a couple of patterns; either looks fine. The easiest to do is to put the offset in the plane of the ceiling (horizontal iow) and far enough away for the 90 to matchup directly perpendicular to the wall (parallel to the run of the joist). Or, the easy way out if the suggestion to not mount on surface is rejected--use a transition flex conduit piece. Actually - you hit on something that I missed. He does not need an offset - he can do it with 2 simple 90's. One 90 to run along the wall, and a second 90 to run down the stud. Much easier measuring, and less opportunity for error. Sometimes the simplest things are the easiest to overlook. -- -Mike- |
#19
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Bending EMT
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 09 Jul 2012 23:37:15 -0400, Bill wrote: Mike Marlow wrote: Larry Jaques wrote: 2) Fab up a solid rod which can fit in the emt so you can clamp it tightly while bending it, preventing it from twisting while you make the compound angle bends. (Weld a doglegged rod to a thick flat plate with a hole in it so you can bolt it down, holding that bottom end while bending, KWIM,V?) Holy Cow Larry - that's way over the top. Much easier to just use the bender... OK, then bend the 10' stick 90 degrees at the midpoint to give you a way to hold it while bending a compound angle. Someting has to hold it very, very tightly while it's being bent. The pipe bender will hold it very snugly. Once you get the EMT in the bender it is very secure throughout the bend. It got dark on me too early today. I'll give it "the ol' college try" tomorrow. If I should fail my bending test, I'll go the FMC route. Crap, Bill. Don't you have one of these? http://tinyurl.com/7x6bdp3 That or the dual-lamp type are enough to light up a white-painted shop really well for work on the fluors. I really like the two light versions on the stand. Extremely versatile lights! Cheap too - usually around $30 - $40 or so for the 1000W model. http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-wa...ght-66439.html or, one at Home Depot that's cheaper... http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...&storeId=10051 .. -- -Mike- |
#20
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Bending EMT
On 7/10/2012 11:45 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
.... Actually - you hit on something that I missed. He does not need an offset - he can do it with 2 simple 90's. One 90 to run along the wall, and a second 90 to run down the stud. Much easier measuring, and less opportunity for error. Sometimes the simplest things are the easiest to overlook. If on surface, yes. It'll be tough to get the 90s in the 3" total distance though--don't think can bend it that tight per the NEC limitations (and be in Code, anyway). Assuming 1/2", and that he's using a standard one-shot bender iirc the takeup will be 5" so he's short w/ the 3"+whatever by about an inch of the distance for one 90. I was presuming the "in the cavity" was a given but for that one still needs the offset horizontally (1 90), turn for the extension into wall (2 90) and down (3 90). But, two are in the ends of the runs, just one separate. But, still given the short offset, don't think can fabricate it w/ just 90s in plane and get the offset he wants. I think the offset and down is the only practical meself given the limitations on how tight a bend can do... Then again, when I'm not actually looking at something what may be obvious is often glaringly not... So, if I overlooked something here, that's entirely possible. Let's see though...somewhere in the not terribly distant past I happened across a page that shows how to measure for a oneshot bender....ok, that's not the same one but it'll do... http://www.tpub.com/ceb/68.htm -- |
#21
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Bending EMT
On 7/10/2012 2:10 PM, dpb wrote:
.... I think the offset and down is the only practical meself given the limitations on how tight a bend can do... .... And, if I were doing it, think I'd go back some more or less arbitrary distance from the downward end, put in the offset then bend the 90 and field-cut the length of the vertical to suit... You know, another thought strikes--wonder how many of these there are (if more than one) and what direction of pull is? There's always the possibility could simply make the 90 and place inline pull boxes at the joists for the feed(s). Then again, maybe is going through wall studs, who knows??? -- |
#22
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Bending EMT
Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote: Mike Marlow wrote: I see a 90 with an offset. To achieve 90 degree angle with a 3" offset: Using 4 bends of 22 degrees, the muliplier (from right angle trig) is 1/sin 22 is about 2.7, so 4*2.7 =10.8" appear to be required. So, I would distribute the four 22 degree bends evenly along 10.8" of EMT. Please correct me as necessary, and mention how many bends would you use for the same problem. Give some consideration to the final appearance. You've lost me Bill. Sorry, I thought you knew about this since you sent me to the manual. It's basic offset stuff, based on right angle geometry (trig). I omitted the calculation of the angles of the bends out of 2-D space that are required to get the correct (3") offset. But, my thinking is that these "adjustments" (where you turn the conduit a little before bending it) are most easily applied to the first and last bend (only). Why not just bend the 90, and then bend an offset below the 90, to run down the stud? Or, as I asked in a previous post - why are you bothering to run it down the stud at all? It can run down the sheet rock, just fine. Because I'm installing the 3-switch box in the wall. I brought an external one home last year and it looked really crappy, so I took it back and am getting a lesson in conduit bending instead! : ) Bill Use a good style hollow wall anchor to clamp it to the wall. Here is an excellent link you may want to hold on to for reference, on bending EMT. http://www.cefga.org/documents/BendingRaceways.pdf |
#23
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Bending EMT
Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote: I see a 90 with an offset. To achieve 90 degree angle with a 3" offset: Using 4 bends of 22 degrees, the muliplier (from right angle trig) is 1/sin 22 is about 2.7, so 4*2.7 =10.8" appear to be required. So, I would distribute the four 22 degree bends evenly along 10.8" of EMT. Please correct me as necessary, and mention how many bends would you use for the same problem. Give some consideration to the final appearance. Bill I typed too fast last night. that whould have been 3 (not 4) times 2.7 = 8.1"... I apologize for any inconvenience. I'm ready to take a shot at it. |
#24
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Bending EMT
On 7/10/2012 3:53 PM, Bill wrote:
Bill wrote: .... I'm ready to take a shot at it. Remember the actual offset you need is 3" _plus_ half the thickness of the joist _plus_ has the conduit OD to get have it against the far side of the stud and centered on the joist...at least if the location of the measurement in your drawing is correct, that is. I'd still just do the offset in the horizontal plane, and then down and inset (I forgot the header in the other conversation w/ Mike). Of course, you could simplify a whole lot if the wall is going to be covered by simply notching... -- |
#25
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Bending EMT
dpb wrote:
On 7/10/2012 3:53 PM, Bill wrote: Bill wrote: ... I'm ready to take a shot at it. Remember the actual offset you need is 3" _plus_ half the thickness of the joist You are evidently right. I didn't realize there was adequate room on the EMT 1-hole straps, I just opened up the box. As you are clearly aware, the whole strap is 1.5" long. I would have put the hole in the middle of the joist...duh! _plus_ has the conduit OD to get have it against the far side of the stud and centered on the joist...at least if the location of the measurement in your drawing is correct, that is. I believe you are right--it makes more sense to "hide the straps" so that screws go on the less visible side. That makes 3" + 3/4" + 5/8" = 4 3/8" Using three 30 degree bends, I should need 2 * 4 3/8 = 8 3/4" inches of conduit for the bend This is starting to get a little crazy. EMT does NOT need to run down the middle of a stud like Romex does, right? Thanks again for your suggestions! I'll go set what I can do! I'm not too skeered! : ) Bill I'd still just do the offset in the horizontal plane, and then down and inset (I forgot the header in the other conversation w/ Mike). Of course, you could simplify a whole lot if the wall is going to be covered by simply notching... -- |
#26
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Bending EMT
dpb wrote:
On 7/10/2012 11:45 AM, Mike Marlow wrote: ... Actually - you hit on something that I missed. He does not need an offset - he can do it with 2 simple 90's. One 90 to run along the wall, and a second 90 to run down the stud. Much easier measuring, and less opportunity for error. Sometimes the simplest things are the easiest to overlook. If on surface, yes. It'll be tough to get the 90s in the 3" total distance though--don't think can bend it that tight per the NEC limitations (and be in Code, anyway). Assuming 1/2", and that he's using a standard one-shot bender iirc the takeup will be 5" so he's short w/ the 3"+whatever by about an inch of the distance for one 90. Yup - you are right. I had forgotten about the 3" measurement. Back to the original offset idea for me. -- -Mike- |
#27
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Bending EMT
Mike Marlow wrote:
dpb wrote: On 7/10/2012 11:45 AM, Mike Marlow wrote: ... Actually - you hit on something that I missed. He does not need an offset - he can do it with 2 simple 90's. One 90 to run along the wall, and a second 90 to run down the stud. Much easier measuring, and less opportunity for error. Sometimes the simplest things are the easiest to overlook. If on surface, yes. It'll be tough to get the 90s in the 3" total distance though--don't think can bend it that tight per the NEC limitations (and be in Code, anyway). Assuming 1/2", and that he's using a standard one-shot bender iirc the takeup will be 5" so he's short w/ the 3"+whatever by about an inch of the distance for one 90. Yup - you are right. I had forgotten about the 3" measurement. Back to the original offset idea for me. 3" is the length of the offset! A straight 90-degree bend would have offset 0. As you point out, the bender can only make bends of 5" radius. I'll achieve 90 degrees in 3 (30 degree) bends, no one says they have to be close together. I wouldn't be typing here, expect my bender is a Gardner #930, which has an Arrow, and an A and a B marked on it's edge, and 2 levels. It doesn't have angle lines marked on the side like the ones in the tutorials! I've been looking for a manual for it. Cheers, %-) Bill |
#28
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Bending EMT
Bill wrote:
This is starting to get a little crazy. EMT does NOT need to run down the middle of a stud like Romex does, right? That is correct Bill. You can run conduit in air. Look at some places like HD the next time you're in there. Any of the big box stores are great places to see how it's done and to get ideas. The conduit is all exposed so it's really easy to see. Lots to learn there. I think I've lost track of a couple of points though. Am I correct in now understanding that you are going to use standard in-the-wall switch boxes? If so, then you're going to have to get your conduit inside the wall at some point - as I'm sure you are aware. That will require significant cutting of sheet rock 'cause conduit don't bend too good when trying to get it inside walls through small openings. You might want to consider notching the plate at the top of your wall, to accomodate the conduit and just run your 90 down into the wall pocket via the notch. From there, a simple offset will easily get you to the switch box. The conduit will anchor to the switch box and you should clamp it somehow at the plate, as well, even if you have to throw a block in there to screw the clamp to. You might even find that with a 3 gang box, you don't need an offset inside the wall. Your conduit may coincidentally fall in alignment with one of the knockouts. Kiss that one if it works out that way! But - don't let me dissuade you... Bending offsets is a blast. I have bent a thousand of them if I've bent one, and I still get a kick out of it when I put the conduit up and it fits as planned. Simple minds - simple pleasures, I guess. So - go ahead and bend yourself a few offsets. Check out the links I sent you. They will give you some common "cheater" measurements for offsets, which will save you lots of calculations. I don't do the calculations - I use the standard measurements and shrinkage. Very fast, accurate, and of course, very rewarding. You're going to have fun bending conduit. You'll make some pretty cool pretzels, you'll kink and ruin more than one piece of conduit, you'll certainly make a bend in the complete opposite direction of what you wanted - it's all guaranteed! You aren't bending conduit if you don't do those things once in a while. But - it is cooly rewarding to bend it and lay up perfect runs that just look like artwork in EMT when you're done. Just remember to de-burr your cuts - every time. Every time. Use a saw and not a tubing cutter. Not a tubing cutter! If you don't debur, I can assure you, at some point in one of your runs, you will create one of those really cool fireworks shows when you throw the switch. Take pictures and post your efforts. -- -Mike- |
#29
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Bending EMT
Bill wrote:
3" is the length of the offset! Yes - I had somehow lost track of that as the conversations unfolded. A straight 90-degree bend would have offset 0. As you point out, the bender can only make bends of 5" radius. I'll achieve 90 degrees in 3 (30 degree) bends, no one says they have to be close together. So - why do it in three bends? Did I understand that you are going to achieve your offset within the 90, thus breaking the bend up into three smaller bends with a slight rotation at "each" bend? That could work but accuracy is going to be unpredictable - especially on your first attempt at bending. As well, if you do that, you're going to have to start your bends somewhat short of the wall, to allow for the travel of the offset in the 1/3 bend. You might not like what this looks like when you see it. I wouldn't be typing here, expect my bender is a Gardner #930, which has an Arrow, and an A and a B marked on it's edge, and 2 levels. It doesn't have angle lines marked on the side like the ones in the tutorials! I've been looking for a manual for it. You should be able to download the manual from Garner's web site. I have used that bender before and I don't like it - because of how they indicate angles. If memory serves me correctly, they have markers for the common angles - instead of the lines that are more common. Both ways work just as well. For me - I'm a creature of habit and like to see the things I'm used to, so I didn't like having to think differently with that particular bender. It bent conduit just fine. I just had to think too much about it. -- -Mike- |
#30
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Bending EMT
Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote: 3" is the length of the offset! Yes - I had somehow lost track of that as the conversations unfolded. A straight 90-degree bend would have offset 0. As you point out, the bender can only make bends of 5" radius. I'll achieve 90 degrees in 3 (30 degree) bends, no one says they have to be close together. So - why do it in three bends? Did I understand that you are going to achieve your offset within the 90, thus breaking the bend up into three smaller bends with a slight rotation at "each" bend? That could work but accuracy is going to be unpredictable - especially on your first attempt at bending. Well, they claim the tube bending is practically an "exact science". I've got a pencil, ruler and a protractor so I'm not leaving much to chance. When EMT is straight, it's easy to make accurate marks on it. I've got three 8-foot pieces of EMT too, and I only need to do it right once! ; ) My current problem is my bender is old and although I located its patent, I haven't located a usable manual yet. I'm not sure what's to stop me from making my own 30 degree mark on it, but I'd like to see a manual anyway. Bill As well, if you do that, you're going to have to start your bends somewhat short of the wall, to allow for the travel of the offset in the 1/3 bend. You might not like what this looks like when you see it. I wouldn't be typing here, expect my bender is a Gardner #930, which has an Arrow, and an A and a B marked on it's edge, and 2 levels. It doesn't have angle lines marked on the side like the ones in the tutorials! I've been looking for a manual for it. You should be able to download the manual from Garner's web site. I have used that bender before and I don't like it - because of how they indicate angles. If memory serves me correctly, they have markers for the common angles - instead of the lines that are more common. Both ways work just as well. For me - I'm a creature of habit and like to see the things I'm used to, so I didn't like having to think differently with that particular bender. It bent conduit just fine. I just had to think too much about it. |
#31
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Bending EMT
On Tue, 10 Jul 2012 16:41:23 -0400, Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote: Bill wrote: Mike Marlow wrote: I see a 90 with an offset. To achieve 90 degree angle with a 3" offset: Using 4 bends of 22 degrees, the muliplier (from right angle trig) is 1/sin 22 is about 2.7, so 4*2.7 =10.8" appear to be required. So, I would distribute the four 22 degree bends evenly along 10.8" of EMT. Please correct me as necessary, and mention how many bends would you use for the same problem. Give some consideration to the final appearance. You've lost me Bill. Sorry, I thought you knew about this since you sent me to the manual. It's basic offset stuff, based on right angle geometry (trig). I omitted the calculation of the angles of the bends out of 2-D space that are required to get the correct (3") offset. But, my thinking is that these "adjustments" (where you turn the conduit a little before bending it) are most easily applied to the first and last bend (only). Why not just bend the 90, and then bend an offset below the 90, to run down the stud? Or, as I asked in a previous post - why are you bothering to run it down the stud at all? It can run down the sheet rock, just fine. Because I'm installing the 3-switch box in the wall. I brought an external one home last year and it looked really crappy, so I took it back and am getting a lesson in conduit bending instead! : ) Bill Use a good style hollow wall anchor to clamp it to the wall. Here is an excellent link you may want to hold on to for reference, on bending EMT. http://www.cefga.org/documents/BendingRaceways.pdf What about using Garvin offset EMT connectors????? |
#32
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Bending EMT
On 7/10/2012 7:27 PM, Bill wrote:
.... This is starting to get a little crazy. EMT does NOT need to run down the middle of a stud like Romex does, right? .... No, I was pointing out the _minimum_ offset to clear the stud if you were going to run it inside the cavity as I thought you said was your intent. It'll be a real trick to get those multiple bends in the proper planes if you try what you described elsewhere but have at it...it's only time and material... -- |
#33
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Bending EMT
dpb wrote:
On 7/10/2012 7:27 PM, Bill wrote: ... This is starting to get a little crazy. EMT does NOT need to run down the middle of a stud like Romex does, right? ... No, I was pointing out the _minimum_ offset to clear the stud if you were going to run it inside the cavity as I thought you said was your intent. It'll be a real trick to get those multiple bends in the proper planes if you try what you described elsewhere but have at it...it's only time and material... Gosh, you were making it sound like it wouldn't be too hard earlier. If things don't go well, there is always FMC. I don't like to be a quitter though! I'm still trying to track down an instruction guide for my manual, just for the principle of the thing.... Thanks! Bill |
#34
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Bending EMT
Bill wrote:
Well, they claim the tube bending is practically an "exact science". I've got a pencil, ruler and a protractor so I'm not leaving much to chance. When EMT is straight, it's easy to make accurate marks on it. I've got three 8-foot pieces of EMT too, and I only need to do it right once! ; ) That's right. But... get back to us after you've put your hand to bending these bends... My current problem is my bender is old and although I located its patent, I haven't located a usable manual yet. I'm not sure what's to stop me from making my own 30 degree mark on it, but I'd like to see a manual anyway. Have you tried the Gardner web site? Just a piece of advice... don't underestimate the problems you may encounter in bending EMT. You might just be placing too much confidence in your understanding that bending EMT is practically and exact science. But - we all have screwed up bends - and we all continue to do so from time to time. -- -Mike- |
#35
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Bending EMT
Mike Marlow wrote:
Have you tried the Gardner web site? Mine is too old (patented 1960). Acquired from a high school shop auction. Just a piece of advice... don't underestimate the problems you may encounter in bending EMT. You might just be placing too much confidence in your understanding that bending EMT is practically and exact science. But - we all have screwed up bends - and we all continue to do so from time to time. Thanks for letting me "off the hook", Mike. I'll reveal the outcome. Bill |
#36
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Bending EMT
I found a conduit bender like mine on ebay. It's had a box that said it was for bending angles of 45 and 90 degrees (not exotic ones like 30). As has been said, sometimes the tools aren't as expensive as your time... BTW, my new Bosch impact driver, because of it's compact size, helped me last week to replace our over the range microwave FAST! Those screws have a lot of threads too! Bill |
#37
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Bending EMT
On 7/10/2012 10:01 PM, Bill wrote:
dpb wrote: On 7/10/2012 7:27 PM, Bill wrote: ... This is starting to get a little crazy. EMT does NOT need to run down the middle of a stud like Romex does, right? ... No, I was pointing out the _minimum_ offset to clear the stud if you were going to run it inside the cavity as I thought you said was your intent. It'll be a real trick to get those multiple bends in the proper planes if you try what you described elsewhere but have at it...it's only time and material... Gosh, you were making it sound like it wouldn't be too hard earlier. .... Well, I wouldn't do it the way you seem to indicate you're going at it--as I said, I'd just do the offset in plane (parallel to the ceiling and the necessary double bend to get whereever it is you want it alongside the stud in the perpendicular plane (vertical). Then there's none of this trying to get some set of multiple angles to end up at a (roughly) 90... You're talking some set of mutiple bends in different planes to try to run some angled run across instead of the straightforward way...I've not tried to fathom the precise path, but your sketch will be hard to replicate in practice methinks (particularly for the beginner)...as Mike says, while it seems unlikely, it's quite easy to get turned around and discover you just went the wrong way...the more complex the set of bends the more likely it ain't comin' out the way you want. -- |
#38
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Bending EMT
dpb wrote:
On 7/10/2012 10:01 PM, Bill wrote: dpb wrote: On 7/10/2012 7:27 PM, Bill wrote: ... This is starting to get a little crazy. EMT does NOT need to run down the middle of a stud like Romex does, right? ... No, I was pointing out the _minimum_ offset to clear the stud if you were going to run it inside the cavity as I thought you said was your intent. It'll be a real trick to get those multiple bends in the proper planes if you try what you described elsewhere but have at it...it's only time and material... Gosh, you were making it sound like it wouldn't be too hard earlier. ... Well, I wouldn't do it the way you seem to indicate you're going at it--as I said, I'd just do the offset in plane (parallel to the ceiling and the necessary double bend to get whereever it is you want it alongside the stud in the perpendicular plane (vertical). Then there's none of this trying to get some set of multiple angles to end up at a (roughly) 90... You're talking some set of mutiple bends in different planes to try to run some angled run across instead of the straightforward way...I've not tried to fathom the precise path, but your sketch will be hard to replicate in practice methinks (particularly for the beginner)...as Mike says, while it seems unlikely, it's quite easy to get turned around and discover you just went the wrong way...the more complex the set of bends the more likely it ain't comin' out the way you want. Yes, But it occurred to me that if I can just get both ends to be pointing in the right directions, then I could made a further very small bend behind the stud so that the end on the ceiling lies just where is it needs to. In a nutshell, I can "fine tune the offset" this way. Thanks again for guiding me to put the ceiling end in the right place! I'm having a large tree taken down tomorrow, but, after that, this little task is at the top of my list after I buy a bender that's not a genuine antique. Bill |
#39
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Bending EMT
On 7/10/2012 11:39 PM, Bill wrote:
.... But it occurred to me that if I can just get both ends to be pointing in the right directions, then I could made a further very small bend behind the stud so that the end on the ceiling lies just where is it needs to. In a nutshell, I can "fine tune the offset" this way. Thanks again for guiding me to put the ceiling end in the right place! .... It's those "small corrections" that tend to be the hardest--once you've got a set of bends in a piece, then it becomes very difficult to change much--it's much different working on a pretzel (particularly not in-plane) than working from one end towards the other where your always going towards the unfinished work... But, there's nothing says you can't try it--maybe it'll come out first go--who knows???? No problem--it just seemed like you were overlooking the fact that you had to clear the material besides just the width... -- |
#40
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Bending EMT
dpb wrote:
Note the actual offset will have to be 3" _plus_ (say 3/4" assuming nominal tubaX thickness) for the centerline of the joist _plus_ the half-diameter of the conduit (doesn't say whether this is 1/2 or 3/4) to get centerlines in right position--namely on the centerline of the joist and flush against the side of the stud. There are many similar to that in the old barn here done in a couple of patterns; either looks fine. The easiest to do is to put the offset in the plane of the ceiling (horizontal iow) and far enough away for the 90 to matchup directly perpendicular to the wall (parallel to the run of the joist). Yes, that would look professional. I appreciate the precision of your explanations! Or, the easy way out if the suggestion to not mount on surface is rejected--use a transition flex conduit piece. It could possibly come to that... If I was paying a contractor, that would probably be my first choice too! |
Reply |
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Bending 8mm and 10mm pipe, bending spring or cheap pipe bender? | UK diy | |||
Bending PCV | Woodworking | |||
Bending/twisting wood (was Bending Oak) | Woodworking | |||
Bending Oak | Woodworking | |||
Help bending 1/8 CRS | Metalworking |