I learned tonight that my wall joints and ceiling joists don't coincide
at the ends. So I'm faced with the following EMT-bending task
(illustrated on my web site):

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/


Upon confronting the problem, it stopped me in my tracks. But
I think I have a better grip on it now, after making the sketch.

It achieves a bend what would be 270 degrees if done in a naive way,
in less than 180. The hard part seems to be getting over the side of the
lower stud --which I think may perhaps be best achieved with a long
gradual bend away from the stud. IIRC, EMT only needs to be clamped
every 10 feet, so this may be less of a problem than I thought it was at
first.

I think I will be smart to just practice the fit and then use EMT
end-to-end connectors when I achieve a bend that will get the job done.
I'll have to check the NEC to be sure those conectors don't need to be
accessible.

If you have any suggestions for me, I'm paying close attention! : )

Yes, I have an EMT bender, a hacksaw, and three 8' pieces to run through
before I need to go back to the store!

Bill

Bill wrote:
I learned tonight that my wall joints and ceiling joists don't
coincide at the ends. So I'm faced with the following EMT-bending
task (illustrated on my web site):

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/


Upon confronting the problem, it stopped me in my tracks. But
I think I have a better grip on it now, after making the sketch.

It achieves a bend what would be 270 degrees if done in a naive way,
in less than 180. The hard part seems to be getting over the side of
the lower stud --which I think may perhaps be best achieved with a
long gradual bend away from the stud.

Couple of questions Bill - why bother going down the side of the stud? Why
not just go straight down the wall? If there is a reason to go down the
stud, then I'd suggest a simple offset bend, which should be detailed in the
manual for your bender. If not, there are a ton of very good youtube videos
on bending EMT. As for the 270 degrees - I don't see that. Where are you
coming up with that? I see a 90 with an offset.



I think I will be smart to just practice the fit and then use EMT
end-to-end connectors when I achieve a bend that will get the job
done. I'll have to check the NEC to be sure those conectors don't
need to be accessible.

No they do not need to be accessable. There is no juction inside the EMT,
so no need for accessability.


--

-Mike-

Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:
I learned tonight that my wall joints and ceiling joists don't
coincide at the ends. So I'm faced with the following EMT-bending
task (illustrated on my web site):

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/


Upon confronting the problem, it stopped me in my tracks. But
I think I have a better grip on it now, after making the sketch.

It achieves a bend what would be 270 degrees if done in a naive way,
in less than 180. The hard part seems to be getting over the side of
the lower stud --which I think may perhaps be best achieved with a
long gradual bend away from the stud.

Couple of questions Bill - why bother going down the side of the stud? Why
not just go straight down the wall?

I wavered at first, but in the end (last summer) decided an external
3-switch box looked too darn ugly for me next to the door! I took it
back rather than installing it.

If there is a reason to go down the
stud, then I'd suggest a simple offset bend, which should be detailed in the
manual for your bender.

I have no manual, but I appreciate your sharing the terminology (which I
can use for a search).

If not, there are a ton of very good youtube videos
on bending EMT. As for the 270 degrees - I don't see that. Where are you
coming up with that? I see a 90 with an offset.

I watched a bunch of videos once upon a time. I may get a refresher
before I start eating EMT. Yes, it's 90 with an offset. Left 90, up
90, and over 90 makes the connection in a "naive" way. How do they
measure "90 with an offset"--90 + 22.5 ?




I think I will be smart to just practice the fit and then use EMT
end-to-end connectors when I achieve a bend that will get the job
done. I'll have to check the NEC to be sure those conectors don't
need to be accessible.

No they do not need to be accessable. There is no juction inside the EMT,
so no need for accessability.

Cool, thanks!

Mike Marlow wrote:
I see a 90 with an offset.


To achieve 90 degree angle with a 3" offset: Using 4 bends of 22
degrees, the muliplier (from right angle trig) is 1/sin 22 is about 2.7,
so 4*2.7 =10.8" appear to be required. So, I would distribute the four
22 degree bends evenly along 10.8" of EMT.

Please correct me as necessary, and mention how many bends would you use
for the same problem. Give some consideration to the final appearance.

Bill

Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
I see a 90 with an offset.


To achieve 90 degree angle with a 3" offset: Using 4 bends of 22
degrees, the muliplier (from right angle trig) is 1/sin 22 is about
2.7, so 4*2.7 =10.8" appear to be required. So, I would distribute
the four 22 degree bends evenly along 10.8" of EMT.

Please correct me as necessary, and mention how many bends would you
use for the same problem. Give some consideration to the final
appearance.

You've lost me Bill. Why not just bend the 90, and then bend an offset
below the 90, to run down the stud? Or, as I asked in a previous post - why
are you bothering to run it down the stud at all? It can run down the sheet
rock, just fine. Use a good style hollow wall anchor to clamp it to the
wall.

Here is an excellent link you may want to hold on to for reference, on
bending EMT.

http://www.cefga.org/documents/BendingRaceways.pdf

--

-Mike-

On 7/10/2012 6:51 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
I see a 90 with an offset.


To achieve 90 degree angle with a 3" offset: Using 4 bends of 22
degrees, the muliplier (from right angle trig) is 1/sin 22 is about
2.7, so 4*2.7 =10.8" appear to be required. So, I would distribute
the four 22 degree bends evenly along 10.8" of EMT.

Please correct me as necessary, and mention how many bends would you
use for the same problem. Give some consideration to the final
appearance.

You've lost me Bill. Why not just bend the 90, and then bend an offset
below the 90, to run down the stud? Or, as I asked in a previous post - why
are you bothering to run it down the stud at all? It can run down the sheet
rock, just fine. Use a good style hollow wall anchor to clamp it to the
wall.
....

Note the actual offset will have to be 3" _plus_ (say 3/4" assuming
nominal tubaX thickness) for the centerline of the joist _plus_ the
half-diameter of the conduit (doesn't say whether this is 1/2 or 3/4) to
get centerlines in right position--namely on the centerline of the joist
and flush against the side of the stud.

There are many similar to that in the old barn here done in a couple of
patterns; either looks fine. The easiest to do is to put the offset in
the plane of the ceiling (horizontal iow) and far enough away for the 90
to matchup directly perpendicular to the wall (parallel to the run of
the joist).

Or, the easy way out if the suggestion to not mount on surface is
rejected--use a transition flex conduit piece.

--

dpb wrote:
On 7/10/2012 6:51 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
I see a 90 with an offset.


To achieve 90 degree angle with a 3" offset: Using 4 bends of 22
degrees, the muliplier (from right angle trig) is 1/sin 22 is about
2.7, so 4*2.7 =10.8" appear to be required. So, I would distribute
the four 22 degree bends evenly along 10.8" of EMT.

Please correct me as necessary, and mention how many bends would you
use for the same problem. Give some consideration to the final
appearance.

You've lost me Bill. Why not just bend the 90, and then bend an
offset below the 90, to run down the stud? Or, as I asked in a
previous post - why are you bothering to run it down the stud at
all? It can run down the sheet rock, just fine. Use a good style
hollow wall anchor to clamp it to the wall.
...

Note the actual offset will have to be 3" _plus_ (say 3/4" assuming
nominal tubaX thickness) for the centerline of the joist _plus_ the
half-diameter of the conduit (doesn't say whether this is 1/2 or 3/4)
to get centerlines in right position--namely on the centerline of the
joist and flush against the side of the stud.

There are many similar to that in the old barn here done in a couple
of patterns; either looks fine. The easiest to do is to put the
offset in the plane of the ceiling (horizontal iow) and far enough
away for the 90 to matchup directly perpendicular to the wall
(parallel to the run of the joist).

Or, the easy way out if the suggestion to not mount on surface is
rejected--use a transition flex conduit piece.

Actually - you hit on something that I missed. He does not need an offset -
he can do it with 2 simple 90's. One 90 to run along the wall, and a second
90 to run down the stud. Much easier measuring, and less opportunity for
error. Sometimes the simplest things are the easiest to overlook.

--

-Mike-

dpb wrote:

Note the actual offset will have to be 3" _plus_ (say 3/4" assuming
nominal tubaX thickness) for the centerline of the joist _plus_ the
half-diameter of the conduit (doesn't say whether this is 1/2 or 3/4) to
get centerlines in right position--namely on the centerline of the joist
and flush against the side of the stud.

There are many similar to that in the old barn here done in a couple of
patterns; either looks fine. The easiest to do is to put the offset in
the plane of the ceiling (horizontal iow) and far enough away for the 90
to matchup directly perpendicular to the wall (parallel to the run of
the joist).

Yes, that would look professional. I appreciate the precision of your
explanations!


Or, the easy way out if the suggestion to not mount on surface is
rejected--use a transition flex conduit piece.

It could possibly come to that... If I was paying a contractor, that
would probably be my first choice too!

Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
I see a 90 with an offset.


To achieve 90 degree angle with a 3" offset: Using 4 bends of 22
degrees, the muliplier (from right angle trig) is 1/sin 22 is about
2.7, so 4*2.7 =10.8" appear to be required. So, I would distribute
the four 22 degree bends evenly along 10.8" of EMT.

Please correct me as necessary, and mention how many bends would you
use for the same problem. Give some consideration to the final
appearance.

You've lost me Bill.

Sorry, I thought you knew about this since you sent me to the manual.
It's basic offset stuff, based on right angle geometry (trig). I
omitted the calculation of the angles of the bends out of 2-D space that
are required to get the correct (3") offset. But, my thinking is that
these "adjustments" (where you turn the conduit a little before bending
it) are most easily applied to the first and last bend (only).

Why not just bend the 90, and then bend an offset
below the 90, to run down the stud? Or, as I asked in a previous post - why
are you bothering to run it down the stud at all? It can run down the sheet
rock, just fine.

Because I'm installing the 3-switch box in the wall. I brought an
external one home last year and it looked really crappy, so I took it
back and am getting a lesson in conduit bending instead! : )

Bill





Use a good style hollow wall anchor to clamp it to the
wall.

Here is an excellent link you may want to hold on to for reference, on
bending EMT.

http://www.cefga.org/documents/BendingRaceways.pdf

On Tue, 10 Jul 2012 16:41:23 -0400, Bill wrote:

Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
I see a 90 with an offset.


To achieve 90 degree angle with a 3" offset: Using 4 bends of 22
degrees, the muliplier (from right angle trig) is 1/sin 22 is about
2.7, so 4*2.7 =10.8" appear to be required. So, I would distribute
the four 22 degree bends evenly along 10.8" of EMT.

Please correct me as necessary, and mention how many bends would you
use for the same problem. Give some consideration to the final
appearance.

You've lost me Bill.

Sorry, I thought you knew about this since you sent me to the manual.
It's basic offset stuff, based on right angle geometry (trig). I
omitted the calculation of the angles of the bends out of 2-D space that
are required to get the correct (3") offset. But, my thinking is that
these "adjustments" (where you turn the conduit a little before bending
it) are most easily applied to the first and last bend (only).

Why not just bend the 90, and then bend an offset
below the 90, to run down the stud? Or, as I asked in a previous post - why
are you bothering to run it down the stud at all? It can run down the sheet
rock, just fine.

Because I'm installing the 3-switch box in the wall. I brought an
external one home last year and it looked really crappy, so I took it
back and am getting a lesson in conduit bending instead! : )

Bill





Use a good style hollow wall anchor to clamp it to the
wall.

Here is an excellent link you may want to hold on to for reference, on
bending EMT.

http://www.cefga.org/documents/BendingRaceways.pdf


What about using Garvin offset EMT connectors?????

Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
I see a 90 with an offset.


To achieve 90 degree angle with a 3" offset: Using 4 bends of 22
degrees, the muliplier (from right angle trig) is 1/sin 22 is about 2.7,
so 4*2.7 =10.8" appear to be required. So, I would distribute the four
22 degree bends evenly along 10.8" of EMT.

Please correct me as necessary, and mention how many bends would you use
for the same problem. Give some consideration to the final appearance.

Bill


I typed too fast last night. that whould have been 3 (not 4) times 2.7
= 8.1"... I apologize for any inconvenience.

I'm ready to take a shot at it.

On 7/10/2012 3:53 PM, Bill wrote:
Bill wrote:
....

I'm ready to take a shot at it.

Remember the actual offset you need is 3" _plus_ half the thickness of
the joist _plus_ has the conduit OD to get have it against the far side
of the stud and centered on the joist...at least if the location of the
measurement in your drawing is correct, that is.

I'd still just do the offset in the horizontal plane, and then down and
inset (I forgot the header in the other conversation w/ Mike).

Of course, you could simplify a whole lot if the wall is going to be
covered by simply notching...

--

dpb wrote:
On 7/10/2012 3:53 PM, Bill wrote:
Bill wrote:
...

I'm ready to take a shot at it.

Remember the actual offset you need is 3" _plus_ half the thickness of
the joist

You are evidently right. I didn't realize there was adequate room on the
EMT 1-hole straps, I just opened up the box. As you are clearly aware,
the whole strap is 1.5" long. I would have put the hole in the middle
of the joist...duh!



_plus_ has the conduit OD to get have it against the far side
of the stud and centered on the joist...at least if the location of the
measurement in your drawing is correct, that is.

I believe you are right--it makes more sense to "hide the straps" so
that screws go on the less visible side. That makes
3" + 3/4" + 5/8" = 4 3/8"

Using three 30 degree bends, I should need 2 * 4 3/8 = 8 3/4" inches of
conduit for the bend

This is starting to get a little crazy. EMT does NOT need to run down
the middle of a stud like Romex does, right?

Thanks again for your suggestions!

I'll go set what I can do! I'm not too skeered! : )

Bill



I'd still just do the offset in the horizontal plane, and then down and
inset (I forgot the header in the other conversation w/ Mike).

Of course, you could simplify a whole lot if the wall is going to be
covered by simply notching...

--

On Mon, 09 Jul 2012 05:20:41 -0400, Bill wrote:


I learned tonight that my wall joints and ceiling joists don't coincide
at the ends. So I'm faced with the following EMT-bending task
(illustrated on my web site):

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/


Upon confronting the problem, it stopped me in my tracks. But
I think I have a better grip on it now, after making the sketch.

It achieves a bend what would be 270 degrees if done in a naive way,
in less than 180. The hard part seems to be getting over the side of the
lower stud --which I think may perhaps be best achieved with a long
gradual bend away from the stud. IIRC, EMT only needs to be clamped
every 10 feet, so this may be less of a problem than I thought it was at
first.

I think I will be smart to just practice the fit and then use EMT
end-to-end connectors when I achieve a bend that will get the job done.
I'll have to check the NEC to be sure those conectors don't need to be
accessible.

If you have any suggestions for me, I'm paying close attention! : )

Yes, I have an EMT bender, a hacksaw, and three 8' pieces to run through
before I need to go back to the store!

Bill

I'm assuming you don't have drywall up at this point. If you have
done a lot of pipe bending that may take some doing. Have you
considered adding a cross piece between the ceiling 2x4's so you can
just make a 90 and keep it simple.

Mike M

On Mon, 09 Jul 2012 09:29:57 -0700, Mike M
wrote:

On Mon, 09 Jul 2012 05:20:41 -0400, Bill wrote:


I learned tonight that my wall joints and ceiling joists don't coincide
at the ends. So I'm faced with the following EMT-bending task
(illustrated on my web site):

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/


Upon confronting the problem, it stopped me in my tracks. But
I think I have a better grip on it now, after making the sketch.

It achieves a bend what would be 270 degrees if done in a naive way,
in less than 180. The hard part seems to be getting over the side of the
lower stud --which I think may perhaps be best achieved with a long
gradual bend away from the stud. IIRC, EMT only needs to be clamped
every 10 feet, so this may be less of a problem than I thought it was at
first.

I think I will be smart to just practice the fit and then use EMT
end-to-end connectors when I achieve a bend that will get the job done.
I'll have to check the NEC to be sure those conectors don't need to be
accessible.

If you have any suggestions for me, I'm paying close attention! : )

Yes, I have an EMT bender, a hacksaw, and three 8' pieces to run through
before I need to go back to the store!

Bill

I'm assuming you don't have drywall up at this point. If you have
done a lot of pipe bending that may take some doing. Have you
considered adding a cross piece between the ceiling 2x4's so you can
just make a 90 and keep it simple.

Mike M
You could alwats throw in a section of flexible metal conduit??
Liquid-Tite from Delikon would do the job. Dead simple to use and
install, and totally code compliant anywhere EMT will work.

wrote:

You could alwats throw in a section of flexible metal conduit??
Liquid-Tite from Delikon would do the job. Dead simple to use and
install, and totally code compliant anywhere EMT will work.


Thank you for mentioning FMC, I looked it up. I may look for that if I
run through my three 8' pieces of EMT.

Bill

Mike M wrote:
On Mon, 09 Jul 2012 05:20:41 -0400, Bill wrote:


I learned tonight that my wall joints and ceiling joists don't coincide
at the ends. So I'm faced with the following EMT-bending task
(illustrated on my web site):

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/


Upon confronting the problem, it stopped me in my tracks. But
I think I have a better grip on it now, after making the sketch.

It achieves a bend what would be 270 degrees if done in a naive way,
in less than 180. The hard part seems to be getting over the side of the
lower stud --which I think may perhaps be best achieved with a long
gradual bend away from the stud. IIRC, EMT only needs to be clamped
every 10 feet, so this may be less of a problem than I thought it was at
first.

I think I will be smart to just practice the fit and then use EMT
end-to-end connectors when I achieve a bend that will get the job done.
I'll have to check the NEC to be sure those conectors don't need to be
accessible.

If you have any suggestions for me, I'm paying close attention! : )

Yes, I have an EMT bender, a hacksaw, and three 8' pieces to run through
before I need to go back to the store!

Bill

I'm assuming you don't have drywall up at this point. If you have
done a lot of pipe bending that may take some doing. Have you
considered adding a cross piece between the ceiling 2x4's so you can
just make a 90 and keep it simple.

Mike M


I do have drywall on the ceiling, I removed it on this area of the wall
to replace the switchbox and add the EMT. Thank you for looking--I'm
sorry my diagram wasn't clearer.

Mike M wrote:

If you haven't done a lot of pipe bending that may take some doing.

I haven't done ANY pipe bending yet, but after making the picture, I
think I may be able to do it in less time than it took me to make the
picture! I felt better after it occurred to me I could use a
connector, because then I only need to screw up a 3-4 foot section at a
time. That gives me 2 tries for $2! How hard can it be, right? I'll
let you know how it goes...

Cheers,
Bill

P.S. This problem is under my skin now! Between me and the EMT, one of
us is going to yield! : )


Mike M

On 7/9/2012 5:20 AM, Bill wrote:

I learned tonight that my wall joints and ceiling joists don't coincide
at the ends. So I'm faced with the following EMT-bending task
(illustrated on my web site):

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/


Upon confronting the problem, it stopped me in my tracks. But
I think I have a better grip on it now, after making the sketch.

It achieves a bend what would be 270 degrees if done in a naive way,
in less than 180. The hard part seems to be getting over the side of the
lower stud --which I think may perhaps be best achieved with a long
gradual bend away from the stud. IIRC, EMT only needs to be clamped
every 10 feet, so this may be less of a problem than I thought it was at
first.

I think I will be smart to just practice the fit and then use EMT
end-to-end connectors when I achieve a bend that will get the job done.
I'll have to check the NEC to be sure those conectors don't need to be
accessible.

If you have any suggestions for me, I'm paying close attention! : )

Yes, I have an EMT bender, a hacksaw, and three 8' pieces to run through
before I need to go back to the store!

Bill
You haven't told us why it needs to be in that particular configuration,
but if it does, perhaps Greenfield would be the way to go?

http://www.flex-tubes.com/greenfield...e-conduit.html

On 7/9/2012 1:33 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 7/9/2012 5:20 AM, Bill wrote:

I learned tonight that my wall joints and ceiling joists don't coincide
at the ends. So I'm faced with the following EMT-bending task
(illustrated on my web site):

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/


Upon confronting the problem, it stopped me in my tracks. But
I think I have a better grip on it now, after making the sketch.

It achieves a bend what would be 270 degrees if done in a naive way,
in less than 180. The hard part seems to be getting over the side of the
lower stud --which I think may perhaps be best achieved with a long
gradual bend away from the stud. IIRC, EMT only needs to be clamped
every 10 feet, so this may be less of a problem than I thought it was at
first.

I think I will be smart to just practice the fit and then use EMT
end-to-end connectors when I achieve a bend that will get the job done.
I'll have to check the NEC to be sure those conectors don't need to be
accessible.

If you have any suggestions for me, I'm paying close attention! : )

Yes, I have an EMT bender, a hacksaw, and three 8' pieces to run through
before I need to go back to the store!

Bill
You haven't told us why it needs to be in that particular configuration,
but if it does, perhaps Greenfield would be the way to go?

http://www.flex-tubes.com/greenfield...e-conduit.html

In case I wasn't clear, I was suggesting Greenfield flexible tubing for
the complex curve part only. You could attach it to the EMT with
connectors.

On Mon, 09 Jul 2012 05:20:41 -0400, Bill wrote:


I learned tonight that my wall joints and ceiling joists don't coincide
at the ends. So I'm faced with the following EMT-bending task
(illustrated on my web site):

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/


Upon confronting the problem, it stopped me in my tracks. But
I think I have a better grip on it now, after making the sketch.

It achieves a bend what would be 270 degrees if done in a naive way,
in less than 180. The hard part seems to be getting over the side of the
lower stud --which I think may perhaps be best achieved with a long
gradual bend away from the stud. IIRC, EMT only needs to be clamped
every 10 feet, so this may be less of a problem than I thought it was at
first.

I think I will be smart to just practice the fit and then use EMT
end-to-end connectors when I achieve a bend that will get the job done.
I'll have to check the NEC to be sure those conectors don't need to be
accessible.

If you have any suggestions for me, I'm paying close attention! : )

3 possibles:

1) Use flexible emt for the bends if allowed by the NEC (or not

2) Fab up a solid rod which can fit in the emt so you can clamp it
tightly while bending it, preventing it from twisting while you make
the compound angle bends. (Weld a doglegged rod to a thick flat plate
with a hole in it so you can bolt it down, holding that bottom end
while bending, KWIM,V?)

3) Have a friend who's an electrician bend it for you.

Oh, a 4th is to run the emt at an angle to the lights, thoroughly
irritating the owner of the shop. LOL!


Yes, I have an EMT bender, a hacksaw, and three 8' pieces to run through
before I need to go back to the store!

g

--
It is common sense to take a method and try it. If it fails,
admit it frankly and try another. But above all, try something.
-- Franklin D. Roosevelt

Larry Jaques wrote:


2) Fab up a solid rod which can fit in the emt so you can clamp it
tightly while bending it, preventing it from twisting while you make
the compound angle bends. (Weld a doglegged rod to a thick flat plate
with a hole in it so you can bolt it down, holding that bottom end
while bending, KWIM,V?)


Holy Cow Larry - that's way over the top. Much easier to just use the
bender...

--

-Mike-

Mike Marlow wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:


2) Fab up a solid rod which can fit in the emt so you can clamp it
tightly while bending it, preventing it from twisting while you make
the compound angle bends. (Weld a doglegged rod to a thick flat plate
with a hole in it so you can bolt it down, holding that bottom end
while bending, KWIM,V?)


Holy Cow Larry - that's way over the top. Much easier to just use the
bender...


It got dark on me too early today. I'll give it "the ol' college try"
tomorrow. If I should fail my bending test, I'll go the FMC route.

On Mon, 09 Jul 2012 23:37:15 -0400, Bill wrote:

Mike Marlow wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:


2) Fab up a solid rod which can fit in the emt so you can clamp it
tightly while bending it, preventing it from twisting while you make
the compound angle bends. (Weld a doglegged rod to a thick flat plate
with a hole in it so you can bolt it down, holding that bottom end
while bending, KWIM,V?)


Holy Cow Larry - that's way over the top. Much easier to just use the
bender...

OK, then bend the 10' stick 90 degrees at the midpoint to give you a
way to hold it while bending a compound angle. Someting has to hold it
very, very tightly while it's being bent.


It got dark on me too early today. I'll give it "the ol' college try"
tomorrow. If I should fail my bending test, I'll go the FMC route.

Crap, Bill. Don't you have one of these? http://tinyurl.com/7x6bdp3
That or the dual-lamp type are enough to light up a white-painted shop
really well for work on the fluors.

Also, I forgot to mention a 5th possibility: you could string the wire
through the individual pieces cut to make the bends, then tighten them
together. Use discrete components (conduit and coupler) a few inches
long if you need to. No bending required.

--
It is common sense to take a method and try it. If it fails,
admit it frankly and try another. But above all, try something.
-- Franklin D. Roosevelt

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 09 Jul 2012 23:37:15 -0400, Bill wrote:

Mike Marlow wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:


2) Fab up a solid rod which can fit in the emt so you can clamp it
tightly while bending it, preventing it from twisting while you
make the compound angle bends. (Weld a doglegged rod to a thick
flat plate with a hole in it so you can bolt it down, holding that
bottom end while bending, KWIM,V?)


Holy Cow Larry - that's way over the top. Much easier to just use
the bender...

OK, then bend the 10' stick 90 degrees at the midpoint to give you a
way to hold it while bending a compound angle. Someting has to hold it
very, very tightly while it's being bent.


The pipe bender will hold it very snugly. Once you get the EMT in the
bender it is very secure throughout the bend.


It got dark on me too early today. I'll give it "the ol' college try"
tomorrow. If I should fail my bending test, I'll go the FMC route.

Crap, Bill. Don't you have one of these? http://tinyurl.com/7x6bdp3
That or the dual-lamp type are enough to light up a white-painted shop
really well for work on the fluors.

I really like the two light versions on the stand. Extremely versatile
lights! Cheap too - usually around $30 - $40 or so for the 1000W model.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-wa...ght-66439.html

or, one at Home Depot that's cheaper...

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...&storeId=10051
..


--

-Mike-

On Mon, 09 Jul 2012 05:20:41 -0400, Bill wrote:


I learned tonight that my wall joints and ceiling joists don't coincide
at the ends. So I'm faced with the following EMT-bending task
(illustrated on my web site):

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/


Upon confronting the problem, it stopped me in my tracks. But
I think I have a better grip on it now, after making the sketch.

It achieves a bend what would be 270 degrees if done in a naive way,
in less than 180. The hard part seems to be getting over the side of the
lower stud --which I think may perhaps be best achieved with a long
gradual bend away from the stud. IIRC, EMT only needs to be clamped
every 10 feet, so this may be less of a problem than I thought it was at
first.

I think I will be smart to just practice the fit and then use EMT
end-to-end connectors when I achieve a bend that will get the job done.
I'll have to check the NEC to be sure those conectors don't need to be
accessible.

If you have any suggestions for me, I'm paying close attention! : )

Yes, I have an EMT bender, a hacksaw, and three 8' pieces to run through
before I need to go back to the store!

Bill

Run the conduit along the side of the joist, stub a 90 (with a 3" kick
to the right) down through the top plate.

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Chris B. wrote:
On Mon, 09 Jul 2012 05:20:41 -0400, Bill wrote:


I learned tonight that my wall joints and ceiling joists don't coincide
at the ends. So I'm faced with the following EMT-bending task
(illustrated on my web site):

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/


Upon confronting the problem, it stopped me in my tracks. But
I think I have a better grip on it now, after making the sketch.

It achieves a bend what would be 270 degrees if done in a naive way,
in less than 180. The hard part seems to be getting over the side of the
lower stud --which I think may perhaps be best achieved with a long
gradual bend away from the stud. IIRC, EMT only needs to be clamped
every 10 feet, so this may be less of a problem than I thought it was at
first.

I think I will be smart to just practice the fit and then use EMT
end-to-end connectors when I achieve a bend that will get the job done.
I'll have to check the NEC to be sure those conectors don't need to be
accessible.

If you have any suggestions for me, I'm paying close attention! : )

Yes, I have an EMT bender, a hacksaw, and three 8' pieces to run through
before I need to go back to the store!

Bill

Run the conduit along the side of the joist, stub a 90 (with a 3" kick
to the right) down through the top plate.

Chris, Thank you for your suggestion. But, I ended up cutting my losses
time-wise, and completing the connection with an 18" piece of ALFLEX (FMC).

Bill


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