Any recommendations for a diamond wheel tile cutter which must be capable of
handling floor tiles. I bought a 'Challenge' cutter at Argos for £29.99 but
the wheel is catching on the base of the water trough and the stick-on
rulers are peeling off, therefore I haven't even attempted to use it. The
device is made in China, which doesn't really instil confidence, and is
marketed by Hilka. It's going back to Argos ASAP. Argos have a more
expensive machine - the Pro Tiler Plus @ £39.99 - has anyone any experience
of this model? Although the cutting wheel is smaller (110mm compared
180mm), it has a transparent blade guard and will handle 45 & 22.5 degree
cuts and it's claimed to handle tiles up to 25mm thick. The Plasplugs
models at this sort of price seem underpowered and flimsy and I would prefer
all metal construction.

I realise that I would probably have to pay over £150 for a
semi-professional machine, but I only want one for my kitchen floor and
bathroom walls. Any advice would be appreciated as I'm now under a deadline
to finish the kitchen. I would also like some advice on suitable adhesives
and grout for my kitchen floor, which is now concrete as I've removed the
old vinyl tiles, although some of the old black adhesive still remains (it's
impossible to remove). I would prefer to use self-mix powder types.

Terry D.

Terry D wrote:
The Plasplugs
models at this sort of price seem underpowered and flimsy and I would prefer
all metal construction.

But they have very good quality motors, which is what really counts
here. I have a 4" PlasPlugs one, which I've used for a range of tiles
and stone, including some incredibly hard ceramic tiles. It has so far
performed flawlessly.

There's little point in a larger blade if the sufficient torque isn't
available to drive it.

As for it being flimsy, I'm not really sure what you mean.


--
Grunff

"Terry D" wrote in message
...
Any recommendations for a diamond wheel tile cutter which must be capable
of
handling floor tiles. I bought a 'Challenge' cutter at Argos for £29.99
but
the wheel is catching on the base of the water trough and the stick-on
rulers are peeling off, therefore I haven't even attempted to use it. The
device is made in China, which doesn't really instil confidence, and is
marketed by Hilka. It's going back to Argos ASAP. Argos have a more
expensive machine - the Pro Tiler Plus @ £39.99 - has anyone any
experience
of this model? Although the cutting wheel is smaller (110mm compared
180mm), it has a transparent blade guard and will handle 45 & 22.5 degree
cuts and it's claimed to handle tiles up to 25mm thick. The Plasplugs
models at this sort of price seem underpowered and flimsy and I would
prefer
all metal construction.

I have only positive things to say about the plasplugs model, although I did
take the first one back as bracket holding the water gaurd was bent. It has
now been used to tile the porch and bathroom, with tiles from 12-15mm
thickness with no problems at all.

Personally I would imagine that the overall quality of a cheap plastic
version is better than a cheap metal one. At this level you need the money
to have been spent in the right places, and my first priority would be the
motor rather than the casing.

I don't rate the stick on rulers of the plasplugs or the tile guide, but
with careful set up and use there is no problem repeatably cuting square
edges, or cutting small angles where required.

cheers

David

Grunff wrote:
Terry D wrote:
The Plasplugs
models at this sort of price seem underpowered and flimsy and I
would prefer all metal construction.

But they have very good quality motors, which is what really counts
here. I have a 4" PlasPlugs one, which I've used for a range of tiles
and stone, including some incredibly hard ceramic tiles. It has so far
performed flawlessly.

There's little point in a larger blade if the sufficient torque isn't
available to drive it.

As for it being flimsy, I'm not really sure what you mean.

Flimsy was perhaps a bad choice of word. On further investigation, the Pro
Tiler Plus at Argos is actually a PlasPlugs model, which is not stated on
the website, only in their catalogue. However, the Argos catalogue states a
wheel diameter of 110mm, whereas the same machine on the Tooled-Up web-site
specifies 180mm. I appreciate that this is not really important, but 70mm
is quite a difference. The problem with Argos is that you can't see before
buying. I guess it's back to good old B&Q if I get a refund from Argos.

Terry D.

In article , Terry D wrote:
is quite a difference. The problem with Argos is that you can't see before
buying. I guess it's back to good old B&Q if I get a refund from Argos.


I've been able to look at things before buying in Argos. Just explain
what you want to do and they'll oblige.

--
simon at sbarr dot demon dot co dot uk
Simon Barr.
'97 110 300Tdi.

David wrote:
"Terry D" wrote in message
...
Any recommendations for a diamond wheel tile cutter which must be
capable of handling floor tiles. I bought a 'Challenge' cutter at
Argos for £29.99 but the wheel is catching on the base of the water
trough and the stick-on rulers are peeling off, therefore I haven't
even attempted to use it. The device is made in China, which
doesn't really instil confidence, and is marketed by Hilka. It's
going back to Argos ASAP. Argos have a more expensive machine - the
Pro Tiler Plus @ £39.99 - has anyone any experience of this model?
Although the cutting wheel is smaller (110mm compared 180mm), it has
a transparent blade guard and will handle 45 & 22.5 degree cuts and
it's claimed to handle tiles up to 25mm thick. The Plasplugs models
at this sort of price seem underpowered and flimsy and I would
prefer all metal construction.

I have only positive things to say about the plasplugs model,
although I did take the first one back as bracket holding the water
gaurd was bent. It has now been used to tile the porch and bathroom,
with tiles from 12-15mm thickness with no problems at all.

Personally I would imagine that the overall quality of a cheap plastic
version is better than a cheap metal one. At this level you need the
money to have been spent in the right places, and my first priority
would be the motor rather than the casing.

I don't rate the stick on rulers of the plasplugs or the tile guide,
but with careful set up and use there is no problem repeatably cuting
square edges, or cutting small angles where required.

cheers

David

Thanks to everybody for all the useful advice - I think I'll go with the
PlasPlugs Pro Tiler Plus. I would still appreciate any advice on ahesives &
grout.

Terry D.

Any recommendations for a diamond wheel tile cutter which must be capable
of
handling floor tiles.

I lost my tile cutter (since found it again in the garden shed).

I ended up cutting my floor tiles (riven slate) freehand with a 6.99
screwfix 115mm angle grinder with a diamond disc (which cost slightly more
than the grinder). It worked perfectly and was no problem getting a straight
cut if you mark the lines out before hand. Excellent for cutting difficult
bits, too. I don't know how it would work on ceramic tiles, but suspect it
might work OK.

I would also like some advice on suitable adhesives and grout for my
kitchen floor, which is now concrete as I've removed the old vinyl
tiles,

I've always used the best I could find. In my case that was Arduflex 7001 TS
(as I was laying onto wood), although there is almost certainly several more
suitable Arduflex adhesives in the range. They do grout, too.

http://www.ardex.co.uk/tileadhesives_grouts.asp

Christian.

In article ,
Terry D wrote:
The Plasplugs models at this sort of price seem underpowered and flimsy
and I would prefer all metal construction.

Well, I've cut most sorts of tiles - including 1" thick marble with mine,
and it didn't seem lacking in power. Of course you must let the saw do the
work.

As regards all metal construction, fine if it was ally. But at the cheaper
end, steel rusts.

--
*Gravity is a myth, the earth sucks *

Dave Plowman London SW 12
RIP Acorn

In article ,
Christian McArdle wrote:
I ended up cutting my floor tiles (riven slate) freehand with a 6.99
screwfix 115mm angle grinder with a diamond disc (which cost slightly
more than the grinder). It worked perfectly and was no problem getting a
straight cut if you mark the lines out before hand. Excellent for
cutting difficult bits, too. I don't know how it would work on ceramic
tiles, but suspect it might work OK.

Personally, I only use an angle grinder where I haven't got a safer tool.
So hardly ever, as I'm terrified of the things. A proper wet bath diamond
wheel tile cutter is near safe enough to let a child use.

--
*I have plenty of talent and vision. I just don't care.

Dave Plowman London SW 12
RIP Acorn

Terry D wrote:

I would still appreciate any advice on ahesives & grout.

This is not a particularly demanding application - so I wouldn't worry
about it too much. I usually use BAL adhesive and grout, and have had
good results with their products. Having said that, I've heard a few
horror stories about BAL products.

--
Grunff

Having just done another floor with a score and snap cutter, I feel obliged
to sing the praises of this method for straight cuts. The Rubi uses a
forward stroke and snaps from the far end of the score, which gives you a
time of
around 10 seconds per tile (no, I didn't break any and, no, I'm not a pro).
I know time isn't everything but, faced with lopping an inch off 24 tiles,
I'm glad I wasn't having to saw them.

Christian McArdle wrote:

I've always used the best I could find. In my case that was Arduflex 7001 TS
(as I was laying onto wood), although there is almost certainly several more
suitable Arduflex adhesives in the range. They do grout, too.

How do you know/decide what is "the best I could find"?

--
Chris Green

How do you know/decide what is "the best I could find"?

I read the technical notes and see who sounds more convincing. Most
manufacturers didn't even have a specialist product for timber floors.

Christian.

Having just done another floor with a score and snap cutter, I feel
obliged
to sing the praises of this method for straight cuts. The Rubi uses a
forward stroke and snaps from the far end of the score, which gives you a
time of around 10 seconds per tile

I'd certainly agree, assuming you have ceramic tiles capable of being
snapped. It's a bit more difficult for diagonal cuts, as the snapping part
won't work and the tool may not be long enough. And I wouldn't even attempt
it with riven slate!

Christian.

In article ,
stuart noble wrote:
Having just done another floor with a score and snap cutter, I feel
obliged to sing the praises of this method for straight cuts. The Rubi
uses a forward stroke and snaps from the far end of the score, which
gives you a time of around 10 seconds per tile (no, I didn't break any
and, no, I'm not a pro). I know time isn't everything but, faced with
lopping an inch off 24 tiles, I'm glad I wasn't having to saw them.

The snag starts when it's less than perhaps an inch, and the score and
snap method fails. Especially where it's the inch part that's needed.

Personally, I enjoy using my diamond wheel cutter, even although it takes
more time. Different if you're a pro and time is money, I suppose.

--
*Aim Low, Reach Your Goals, Avoid Disappointment *

Dave Plowman London SW 12
RIP Acorn

I have only positive things to say about the plasplugs model,
although I did take the first one back as bracket holding the water
gaurd was bent. It has now been used to tile the porch and bathroom,
with tiles from 12-15mm thickness with no problems at all.

Personally I would imagine that the overall quality of a cheap plastic
version is better than a cheap metal one. At this level you need the
money to have been spent in the right places, and my first priority
would be the motor rather than the casing.

I don't rate the stick on rulers of the plasplugs or the tile guide,
but with careful set up and use there is no problem repeatably cuting
square edges, or cutting small angles where required.

cheers

David

I returned the Challenge tile cutter to Argos and bought the PlasPlugs Pro
Tiler Plus for £10 more (£39.99). I now stand by my original comment of
'flimsy'. The whole thing appears just a piece of cheap, mostly plastic
junk and weighs less than half of the Challenge sturdy all-metal
constuction. The adjustments for mitre cutting are just a joke - just thin
flexible lugs which are supposed to fit into moulded guides. I can see
these breaking off in no time, although fortunately I won't be cutting many
mitres. The ruler guides are also showing signs of unsticking themselves,
as with the Challenge. The integral water reservoir however seems better
than the Challenge cutter. I'll give it a go but at the first sign of
trouble, it's back to Argos again. I suppose at these prices I shouldn't
really complain too much, but if I paid any more I may as well employ a
professional tiler. On reflection, I now wish I'd gone for vinyl flooring
as I now still have to buy the adhesive & grout and also suffer the kitchen
out of action for at least 24 hours :-(

Terry D.

In article ,
Terry D wrote:
I returned the Challenge tile cutter to Argos and bought the PlasPlugs
Pro Tiler Plus for £10 more (£39.99). I now stand by my original
comment of 'flimsy'. The whole thing appears just a piece of cheap,
mostly plastic junk and weighs less than half of the Challenge sturdy
all-metal constuction. The adjustments for mitre cutting are just a
joke - just thin flexible lugs which are supposed to fit into moulded
guides. I can see these breaking off in no time, although fortunately I
won't be cutting many mitres. The ruler guides are also showing signs
of unsticking themselves, as with the Challenge.

A word of advice. It's not a hammer and chisel way of splitting tiles, but
a saw. Use it gently - let the saw do the work - and it'll be fine. Of
course it's not a pro tool, but it's not a pro price. And also as
something which will be used infrequently, you might appreciate the light
weight for storing on a top shelf, etc.

I'm normally all in favour of the best quality tools even at the price,
but in this case I think you'll find the Plasplugs ok once you're used to
it.

--
*Why do the two "sanction"s (noun and verb) mean opposites?*

Dave Plowman London SW 12
RIP Acorn

Dave Plowman wrote:
In article ,
Terry D wrote:
I returned the Challenge tile cutter to Argos and bought the
PlasPlugs Pro Tiler Plus for £10 more (£39.99). I now stand by my
original comment of 'flimsy'. The whole thing appears just a piece
of cheap, mostly plastic junk and weighs less than half of the
Challenge sturdy all-metal constuction. The adjustments for mitre
cutting are just a joke - just thin flexible lugs which are supposed
to fit into moulded guides. I can see these breaking off in no
time, although fortunately I won't be cutting many mitres. The
ruler guides are also showing signs of unsticking themselves, as
with the Challenge.

A word of advice. It's not a hammer and chisel way of splitting
tiles, but a saw. Use it gently - let the saw do the work - and it'll
be fine. Of course it's not a pro tool, but it's not a pro price. And
also as something which will be used infrequently, you might
appreciate the light weight for storing on a top shelf, etc.

I'm normally all in favour of the best quality tools even at the
price, but in this case I think you'll find the Plasplugs ok once
you're used to it.

Thanks for the reassurance Dave. I'll get my safety goggles out and have a
few practice runs this weekend. BTW, how long can I expect the blade to
last in terms of cutting length?

Terry D.

Grunff wrote:



No, Dave's right. With a solid disk as used in table tile cutters the
chances of anything flying off are pretty low, and the chances of it
getting past the guard even lower.

I'm pretty careful, and will often be seen wearing goggles while angle
grinding. I even use a welding mask when welding. But I don't think
these tile cutters require such precautions.

How many of us wear goggles while hitting things with a hammer? Far more
risk there.

I tend to, but then my *glasses* are an impact rated safety type....Only
my driving glasses don't have side shields, as they affect the periferal
(sp) vision...

Niel.

Terry D wrote:

I'll get my safety goggles out and have a
few practice runs this weekend.

Big girl...


BTW, how long can I expect the blade to
last in terms of cutting length?

Depends a lot on what you're cutting. I've so far done 1 bathroom, one
shower room and a hallway, using ceramic wall tiles and (very hard)
porcelain floor tiles on the original blade. I will be replacing it
before doing the kitchen floor.

--
Grunff

Thanks for the reassurance Dave. I'll get my safety goggles out and have
a
few practice runs this weekend. BTW, how long can I expect the blade to
last in terms of cutting length?

That varies very wildly on many factors.

In particular, keeping it wet is important, so when you stop getting
drenched every time you use it, the water level is too low.

Using it slowly and backing up occasionally to clear it helps.

I did my whole bathroom, including absolutely loads of mitring of some very
bulky dado tiles, on about 1.2 wheels. I didn't persist on the old wheel as
it started getting dangerous by hurling the tile across the room.

Christian.

In article ,
Terry D wrote:
Thanks for the reassurance Dave. I'll get my safety goggles out and
have a few practice runs this weekend.

You'll not need those, as all it throws out is water with some slurry in
it - no chunks as you might expect with an angle grinder etc. Just make
sure you set the guard as low as possible otherwise you'll get soaked -
but in any case wear something that doesn't matter if it gets wet.

BTW, how long can I expect the blade to last in terms of cutting length?

I'll let you know when I wear one out. It's a long time, although it will
depend on what you're cutting.

--
*Could it be that "I do " is the longest sentence? *

Dave Plowman London SW 12
RIP Acorn

Dave Plowman wrote:
In article ,
Terry D wrote:
Thanks for the reassurance Dave. I'll get my safety goggles out and
have a few practice runs this weekend.

You'll not need those, as all it throws out is water with some slurry
in it - no chunks as you might expect with an angle grinder etc. Just
make sure you set the guard as low as possible otherwise you'll get
soaked - but in any case wear something that doesn't matter if it
gets wet.

BTW, how long can I expect the blade to last in terms of cutting
length?

I'll let you know when I wear one out. It's a long time, although it
will depend on what you're cutting.

Did you mean that I won't need the practice runs or I won't need the safety
goggles? I'm astounded at the blasé attitude of some DIY enthusiasts with
regard to safety. For instance, I quite often see neighbours using rotary
mowers or strimmers without adequate footwear (sometimes even sandals!) and
suitable eye protection. After working for ICI for 35 years, safety was
instilled into me from an early age. I have goggles, steel toe-capped
boots, gloves, overalls and even a hard hat, all of which are worn when
deemed necessary.

Getting back to the floor-tiling - I'm already booked for tiling my
daughter's new conservatory floor and I haven't even started my own kitchen
yet, followed by the bathroom. :-(

BTW, what gets the vote for the most frightening DIY appliance. I think my
vote must go to chain saws, closely followed by hedge trimmers.

Terry D.

Badger wrote:

You'll not need those, as all it throws out is water with some slurry in
it - no chunks as you might expect with an angle grinder etc. Just make
sure you set the guard as low as possible otherwise you'll get soaked -
but in any case wear something that doesn't matter if it gets wet.


Tell me your joking?

No, Dave's right. With a solid disk as used in table tile cutters the
chances of anything flying off are pretty low, and the chances of it
getting past the guard even lower.

I'm pretty careful, and will often be seen wearing goggles while angle
grinding. I even use a welding mask when welding. But I don't think
these tile cutters require such precautions.

How many of us wear goggles while hitting things with a hammer? Far more
risk there.

--
Grunff

On Fri, 18 Jun 2004 20:22:55 +0100, Terry D wrote:

BTW, what gets the vote for the most frightening DIY appliance. I
think my vote must go to chain saws, closely followed by hedge
trimmers.

Most scary chainsaw. Most dangerous stanley knife. High powered
nailguns must be up there somewhere as well, you know the things
that'll drive a 4" nail into solid concrete.

--
Cheers
Dave. pam is missing e-mail

In article 8bIAc.900$ZY3.886@newsfe6-win,
Terry D wrote:
Did you mean that I won't need the practice runs or I won't need the
safety goggles? I'm astounded at the blasé attitude of some DIY
enthusiasts with regard to safety. For instance, I quite often see
neighbours using rotary mowers or strimmers without adequate footwear
(sometimes even sandals!) and suitable eye protection. After working
for ICI for 35 years, safety was instilled into me from an early age. I
have goggles, steel toe-capped boots, gloves, overalls and even a hard
hat, all of which are worn when deemed necessary.

I'm saying it's not a device where safety glasses are *essential* - if the
blade guard is properly set as it should be to stop yourself getting
soaked. Of course, if you bend down and get your eyes close to the blade
that would be a different matter, but no one with normal eyesight would
need to.

I did say it's a pretty safe device if used with normal safety
precautions. At least it doesn't scare me, like circular saws and angle
grinders do.

--
*Someday, we'll look back on this, laugh nervously and change the subject

Dave Plowman London SW 12
RIP Acorn

Dave Liquorice wrote:

BTW, what gets the vote for the most frightening DIY appliance. I
think my vote must go to chain saws, closely followed by hedge
trimmers.


Most scary chainsaw. Most dangerous stanley knife. High powered
nailguns must be up there somewhere as well, you know the things
that'll drive a 4" nail into solid concrete.


Does my spud gun count as a tool? So many near misses...

--
Grunff

Christian McArdle wrote in message 40d2af8d$0$284

I'd certainly agree, assuming you have ceramic tiles capable of being
snapped. It's a bit more difficult for diagonal cuts, as the snapping part
won't work and the tool may not be long enough.
I don't think this presents a problem on the Rubi, which takes a 12" tile
diagonally and the snapper works fine at that angle.
The offcut limit Dave refers to is more like half an inch, which I suppose
is splitting hairs. Under that it is still good for doing the score but you
have to nibble the offcut. Now there's a technique I haven't really
mastered. I've watched tilers using those nibblers to cut shapes, but it
never works for me.
Overall I'd say a *good* snapper comes into its own on floors because a 12"
tile is as quick to cut as a 6", plus the tool is right next to you the
whole time. Bad enough being on your knees but getting up and down for each
cut is a pain.

On Fri, 18 Jun 2004 22:16:17 +0100 (BST), "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:

On Fri, 18 Jun 2004 20:22:55 +0100, Terry D wrote:

BTW, what gets the vote for the most frightening DIY appliance. I
think my vote must go to chain saws, closely followed by hedge
trimmers.

Most scary chainsaw. Most dangerous stanley knife. High powered
nailguns must be up there somewhere as well, you know the things
that'll drive a 4" nail into solid concrete.

I vote for
Hammer - the item that has hurt me the most
Mini Digger - the item that scares me the most when using it

All types of small power tool are given great respect, so are less
lilkley to damage me. The mini digger is hired, so as you pay by the
day to have it, you use it 15 hours a day, in any weather.

Rick

On Fri, 18 Jun 2004 20:22:55 +0100, Terry D wrote:

BTW, what gets the vote for the most frightening DIY appliance. I
think my vote must go to chain saws, closely followed by hedge
trimmers.

My cheap'n cheerful 5-quid Screwfix angle-grinder. I used it on the
first day it arrived, and it cut out. Put it down to check the plug;
oops sure enough it had come slightly out of the socket so I pushed it
home. At which point I discovered that the angle-grinder switch,
which was quite stiff, had a lock-on position (why??). It immediately
burst into life and shot across the room, passing about two inches
from my leg. A salutary lesson indeed.
David

Grunff wrote:

Not really - I've just made it up as I've gone along. I use ABS soil
pipe for the combustion chamber, and 22mm copper for the barrel. Works
great.
Hope your not UK based, that sounds like an un-proofed and unlicenced
firearm, according to UK law....

(Lobster) wrote in message . com...
On Fri, 18 Jun 2004 20:22:55 +0100, Terry D wrote:

BTW, what gets the vote for the most frightening DIY appliance. I
think my vote must go to chain saws, closely followed by hedge
trimmers.

My cheap'n cheerful 5-quid Screwfix angle-grinder. I used it on the
first day it arrived, and it cut out. Put it down to check the plug;
oops sure enough it had come slightly out of the socket so I pushed it
home. At which point I discovered that the angle-grinder switch,
which was quite stiff, had a lock-on position (why??). It immediately
burst into life and shot across the room, passing about two inches
from my leg. A salutary lesson indeed.
David


I like the more dangerous ones as they do so much so easily. But....
the price tag is all too easily bad bad bad. I think one of the more
dangerous ones is the innocent looking planer. Its high pitched
purring disguises its ravenous appetite for anything that so much as
touches it. Angle grinder, chainsaw, and circ saw are the obvious
others. Maybe I've missed soemthing? What about props used when
digging under foundations and removing supporting walls etc?

Regards, NT

On 19 Jun 2004 07:39:27 -0700, (N. Thornton) strung
together this:

Maybe I've missed soemthing?

The most dangerous equipment I've ever used on site is... scaffolding!
Every time I go up som I end up with some sort of injury or my mobile
ends up flying towardds the ground from an astounding height. Cherry
pickers are fun too!
--

SJW
A.C.S. Ltd

Grunff wrote:
Badger wrote:

Hope your not UK based, that sounds like an un-proofed and unlicenced
firearm, according to UK law....


I am, but does it really? Documentation?

Yes.
Firearms acts, various years, proof acts, variuos years, try google, or
your local police...

Grunff wrote

Does my spud gun count as a tool? So many near misses...

Do you have any plans? A spud gun is my next project. I particularly
liked Jeremy Clarkson's. Highly irresponsible.... but looked like
amazing fun.
Cheers,
Steve

"Dave Liquorice" wrote in message
ll.com...
On Fri, 18 Jun 2004 20:22:55 +0100, Terry D wrote:

BTW, what gets the vote for the most frightening DIY appliance. I
think my vote must go to chain saws, closely followed by hedge
trimmers.


My large Stayer angle grinder with a diamond wheel. Throws up so much dust
when cutting stone you want to put it down but it carries on spinning for
minutes after you turn it off and you know if you put it down in the mist
you'll cut your foot off.

Steve Wilson wrote:

Do you have any plans?

Not really - I've just made it up as I've gone along. I use ABS soil
pipe for the combustion chamber, and 22mm copper for the barrel. Works
great.

--
Grunff

You'll not need those, as all it throws out is water with some slurry
in
it - no chunks as you might expect with an angle grinder etc. Just make
sure you set the guard as low as possible otherwise you'll get soaked -
but in any case wear something that doesn't matter if it gets wet.


Tell me your joking?

No, Dave's right. With a solid disk as used in table tile cutters the
chances of anything flying off are pretty low, and the chances of it
getting past the guard even lower.

I'm pretty careful, and will often be seen wearing goggles while angle
grinding. I even use a welding mask when welding. But I don't think
these tile cutters require such precautions.

How many of us wear goggles while hitting things with a hammer? Far more
risk there.

Absolute boll....

okay, to be more constructive... I have used the rotary tile cutters, and as
an earlier poster pointed out you do tend to get wet through with the splash
from the disk. This water, however, is laden with ceramic (or whatever) dust
from the cut (take a look at the colour of your tee-shirt after it dries!)
so I'd hate to get that in my eyes. Also, after a few seconds of use you
tend to end up craning your neck trying to work out where your carefully
marked line (which is being obliterated by the water/dust combo) is, which
tends to result in more face-flung water. And, every now and then, you'll
feel a small chip hit the old forehead - a sure sign that this is a good
time to be wearing safety specs.

I'm one of the many that the OP refers to with amazement, I tend to have an
unhealthy disregard for my own safety, however, angle grinders and the
rotary tile cutter are two devices that I'll always dig out those old specs
for.

Just one last point - tiling bathroom floors? (assuming upstairs / wooden
floor) - are you mad?, okay, if you know what you're doing then fair shout,
if not, ask advice here (from one who's tiled bathroom floor lasted 3 days
before being ripped up)

Regards

"Dave Plowman" wrote in message
...
In article ,
stuart noble wrote:
Having just done another floor with a score and snap cutter, I feel
obliged to sing the praises of this method for straight cuts. The Rubi
uses a forward stroke and snaps from the far end of the score, which
gives you a time of around 10 seconds per tile (no, I didn't break any
and, no, I'm not a pro). I know time isn't everything but, faced with
lopping an inch off 24 tiles, I'm glad I wasn't having to saw them.

The snag starts when it's less than perhaps an inch, and the score and
snap method fails. Especially where it's the inch part that's needed.

Personally, I enjoy using my diamond wheel cutter, even although it takes
more time. Different if you're a pro and time is money, I suppose.

I'd second the recommendation for the score-and-snap cutters, in particular
(in the DIY range and B&Q shelf availability) the Plasplug (bah!) Contractor
version, with the single action score-and-snap (rather than the cheaper
version where you score, then reposition the tile to snap). I use this for
95% of all cuts, a lot quicker and cleaner that the diamon-disc cutters, but
for that last 5% of "awkward" cuts (e.g. concave angles or nibbling arcs
etc.) then the diamond cutters come into their own. For £20 for the
Contracter cutter, I'd suggest it's not a case of which of the tools is
better, rather, both of the tools will help in their own way.

Regards

Mike Dodd wrote:

okay, to be more constructive... I have used the rotary tile cutters, and as
an earlier poster pointed out you do tend to get wet through with the splash
from the disk. This water, however, is laden with ceramic (or whatever) dust
from the cut (take a look at the colour of your tee-shirt after it dries!)
so I'd hate to get that in my eyes.

Ok, agreed so far.


Also, after a few seconds of use you
tend to end up craning your neck trying to work out where your carefully
marked line (which is being obliterated by the water/dust combo) is, which
tends to result in more face-flung water.

In all the cutting I've done so far, never wearing goggles, I've yet to
end up with a single drop in my eyes.


And, every now and then, you'll
feel a small chip hit the old forehead - a sure sign that this is a good
time to be wearing safety specs.

And no chips either.


I'm one of the many that the OP refers to with amazement, I tend to have an
unhealthy disregard for my own safety, however, angle grinders and the
rotary tile cutter are two devices that I'll always dig out those old specs
for.

Up to you.

--
Grunff