On Sun, 20 Jun 2004 09:32:22 +0100, Grunff wrote:

I'd hate to get that in my eyes.

Ok, agreed so far.

And, every now and then, you'll feel a small chip hit the old
forehead - a sure sign that this is a good time to be wearing
safety specs.

And no chips either.

The guard, when properly adjusted, on the smaller plasplugs jobbie
keeps most of the water and any small chips of glaze down onto the
table of the saw. Some water does get ejected fore and aft but none
upwards.

--
Cheers
Dave. pam is missing e-mail

G&M wrote:

"Dave Liquorice" wrote in message
ll.com...

On Fri, 18 Jun 2004 20:22:55 +0100, Terry D wrote:


BTW, what gets the vote for the most frightening DIY appliance. I
think my vote must go to chain saws, closely followed by hedge
trimmers.



My large Stayer angle grinder with a diamond wheel. Throws up so much dust
when cutting stone you want to put it down but it carries on spinning for
minutes after you turn it off and you know if you put it down in the mist
you'll cut your foot off.


Denifintley a hand held router. The gyro action is immnese, and teh
bloody things spin for ages at verh high RPM.

Mike Dodd wrote:

You'll not need those, as all it throws out is water with some slurry

in

it - no chunks as you might expect with an angle grinder etc. Just make
sure you set the guard as low as possible otherwise you'll get soaked -
but in any case wear something that doesn't matter if it gets wet.


Tell me your joking?

No, Dave's right. With a solid disk as used in table tile cutters the
chances of anything flying off are pretty low, and the chances of it
getting past the guard even lower.

I'm pretty careful, and will often be seen wearing goggles while angle
grinding. I even use a welding mask when welding. But I don't think
these tile cutters require such precautions.

How many of us wear goggles while hitting things with a hammer? Far more
risk there.


Absolute boll....

okay, to be more constructive... I have used the rotary tile cutters, and as
an earlier poster pointed out you do tend to get wet through with the splash
from the disk. This water, however, is laden with ceramic (or whatever) dust
from the cut (take a look at the colour of your tee-shirt after it dries!)
so I'd hate to get that in my eyes. Also, after a few seconds of use you
tend to end up craning your neck trying to work out where your carefully
marked line (which is being obliterated by the water/dust combo) is, which
tends to result in more face-flung water. And, every now and then, you'll
feel a small chip hit the old forehead - a sure sign that this is a good
time to be wearing safety specs.

I'm one of the many that the OP refers to with amazement, I tend to have an
unhealthy disregard for my own safety, however, angle grinders and the
rotary tile cutter are two devices that I'll always dig out those old specs
for.

Just one last point - tiling bathroom floors? (assuming upstairs / wooden
floor) - are you mad?, okay, if you know what you're doing then fair shout,
if not, ask advice here (from one who's tiled bathroom floor lasted 3 days
before being ripped up)


My first one lasted 2 years, but an unspotted leak from the bog that
caused the floor to swell put paid to it. Now relaid with thick beds of
flexible cement and fine...

Its all about stability of the subtsrate.
Regards

Mike Dodd wrote:

"Dave Plowman" wrote in message
...

In article ,
stuart noble wrote:

Having just done another floor with a score and snap cutter, I feel
obliged to sing the praises of this method for straight cuts. The Rubi
uses a forward stroke and snaps from the far end of the score, which
gives you a time of around 10 seconds per tile (no, I didn't break any
and, no, I'm not a pro). I know time isn't everything but, faced with
lopping an inch off 24 tiles, I'm glad I wasn't having to saw them.

The snag starts when it's less than perhaps an inch, and the score and
snap method fails. Especially where it's the inch part that's needed.

Personally, I enjoy using my diamond wheel cutter, even although it takes
more time. Different if you're a pro and time is money, I suppose.


I'd second the recommendation for the score-and-snap cutters, in particular
(in the DIY range and B&Q shelf availability) the Plasplug (bah!) Contractor
version, with the single action score-and-snap (rather than the cheaper
version where you score, then reposition the tile to snap). I use this for
95% of all cuts, a lot quicker and cleaner that the diamon-disc cutters, but
for that last 5% of "awkward" cuts (e.g. concave angles or nibbling arcs
etc.) then the diamond cutters come into their own. For £20 for the
Contracter cutter, I'd suggest it's not a case of which of the tools is
better, rather, both of the tools will help in their own way.


Ive got both. I tend to use teh diamind wheel excelusively, because it
can shave thous off a tile edge, and do the awkward stuf, and it is
really no bother. With te guard down it doesn't spalch much: I wear
glasses anyway these days, and a quick wipe is necessary doing alomost
any work.

Yes, your get wet. So what?

Regards

On 20 Jun 2004 10:46:39 GMT, (Huge) wrote:

Grunff writes:
Steve Wilson wrote:

Do you have any plans?

Not really - I've just made it up as I've gone along. I use ABS soil
pipe for the combustion chamber, and 22mm copper for the barrel. Works
great.

Spud guns? Pah!

http://www.docsmachine.com/nonPB/mortar


'k'nell.

Perhaps he's related to the guy who lights barbecues in 2 seconds with
liquid oxygen


..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

Badger wrote:

Hope your not UK based, that sounds like an un-proofed and unlicenced
firearm, according to UK law....

I am, but does it really? Documentation?

--
Grunff

Huge wrote:

Spud guns? Pah!

http://www.docsmachine.com/nonPB/mortar


That is very, very cool.

I think I need to move away from plastics - too many 'incidents'.

--
Grunff

At which point I discovered that the angle-grinder switch,
which was quite stiff, had a lock-on position (why??).

I think tools without lock on power are dangerous. If I need to constant
press my thumb on a stiff switch to keep the thing going, that's one less
hand available to actually control the tool.

I would probably have injured myself with the grinder had I had to keep my
finger pressed in some inappropriate position.

I find the same with my router. It is near useless as you have to contort
your hands to keep it going, which makes guiding the thing impossible.

Christian.

Grunff wrote:
Badger wrote:
Hope your not UK based, that sounds like an un-proofed and#
unlicenced firearm, according to UK law....

I am, but does it really? Documentation?

It might be something you should have a shot gun certificate for:

A shotgun is defined as a smooth-bore gun (not being an air gun)
which:

Has a barrel not less than 60.96cms (24 inches) in length with a
bore less than 50.08cms (2 inches) in diameter; Either has no
magazine or a fixed magazine not holding more than two cartridges;
and: Is not a revolver gun.

Shotguns within this definition require a shotgun certificate.

[ from "Application for a Shotgun Certificate" ]


J.B.

On Mon, 21 Jun 2004 09:52:43 +0100, Christian McArdle wrote:

I think tools without lock on power are dangerous. If I need to
constant press my thumb on a stiff switch to keep the thing going,
that's one less hand available to actually control the tool.

And the thumb/finger gets tired...

What they should be fitted with is intermittent (as in press and hold)
NVR switches but with the facilty to lock them on, however if the
power supply fails they drop out.

--
Cheers
Dave. pam is missing e-mail

I'd second the recommendation for the score-and-snap cutters, in
particular
(in the DIY range and B&Q shelf availability) the Plasplug (bah!)
Contractor
version, with the single action score-and-snap (rather than the cheaper
version where you score, then reposition the tile to snap). I use this
for
95% of all cuts, a lot quicker and cleaner that the diamon-disc cutters,
but
for that last 5% of "awkward" cuts (e.g. concave angles or nibbling arcs
etc.) then the diamond cutters come into their own. For £20 for the
Contracter cutter, I'd suggest it's not a case of which of the tools is
better, rather, both of the tools will help in their own way.


Ive got both. I tend to use teh diamind wheel excelusively, because it
can shave thous off a tile edge, and do the awkward stuf, and it is
really no bother. With te guard down it doesn't spalch much: I wear
glasses anyway these days, and a quick wipe is necessary doing alomost
any work.

Yes, your get wet. So what?


I'll agree that the disks are very good at what they do, but a decent
score-and-snap?, I've found them quicker and neater (certainly against hard
floor tiles); Oh, and you stay dry g (To drag the argument on, with the
floor tiles I had there was some obvious wear on the disc after a few cuts,
so the scribe-and-snap would be a lot cheaper to run over time).

I have to admit I'm impressed with both - there's the old rule of thumb of
buying 10% more tiles than you need to accomodate breakages; the only tile
I've even broken was trying a rather optimistic 1/4" shave off one tile
using a score-and-snap. Went through a myriad of tile cutting tools after
that with no luck (all the hand-help/jigsaw tile saws are crap on a hard
tile), until finding the diamond-disc cutter. Never looked back.

Regards

Grunff wrote:

I think I need to move away from plastics - too many 'incidents'.


Well how about this then.........

http://www.spudtech.com/detail.asp?id=51

Cheers,
Steve

Steve Wilson wrote:

Well how about this then.........

http://www.spudtech.com/detail.asp?id=51


That's basically what I currently have in ABS.

--
Grunff

Jerry Built wrote:

Grunff wrote:

Badger wrote:

Hope your not UK based, that sounds like an un-proofed and#
unlicenced firearm, according to UK law....

I am, but does it really? Documentation?


It might be something you should have a shot gun certificate for:

A shotgun is defined as a smooth-bore gun (not being an air gun)
which:

Ah, but its not a gun: Its a cannon.


Has a barrel not less than 60.96cms (24 inches) in length with a
bore less than 50.08cms (2 inches) in diameter; Either has no
magazine or a fixed magazine not holding more than two cartridges;
and: Is not a revolver gun.

Shotguns within this definition require a shotgun certificate.

[ from "Application for a Shotgun Certificate" ]


J.B.

On 21 Jun 2004 18:14:12 GMT, (Huge) wrote:

If there's more than 12 ft.lb. of energy in the projectile, you probably
need a FAC.

It's _entirely_ illegal, as it's not proof-marked.

However as it's a smooth bore, it'll be licensable on a shotgun ticket
rather than an FAC. That's assuming you could ever get it proofed.

--
Smert' spamionam

Grunff wrote in message ...
Steve Wilson wrote:

Well how about this then.........

http://www.spudtech.com/detail.asp?id=51


That's basically what I currently have in ABS.

Wow !!! I can see why you want to go metallic then !

The Natural Philosopher wrote:

Jerry Built wrote:

Grunff wrote:

Badger wrote:

Hope your not UK based, that sounds like an un-proofed and#
unlicenced firearm, according to UK law....

I am, but does it really? Documentation?


It might be something you should have a shot gun certificate for:

A shotgun is defined as a smooth-bore gun (not being an air gun)
which:

Ah, but its not a gun: Its a cannon.


Alas, that'll cut no ice with your local constabulary. Doesn't need to have
undergone proof unless you want to sell it, but possession will get you 5
years or an unlimited fine or both.

jd

--
John Daragon argv[0] limited
Lambs Lawn Cottage, Staple Fitzpaine, Taunton TA3 5SL, UK
(house) 01460 234576 (office) 01460 234068
(mobile) 07836 576127 (fax) 01460 234069

"Terry D" wrote in message
news:8bIAc.900$ZY3.886@newsfe6-win...
BTW, what gets the vote for the most frightening DIY appliance. I think
my
vote must go to chain saws, closely followed by hedge trimmers.

Terry D.


This throws up a scenario for a DIY based horror movie... with some decent
battery powered tools we're no longer limited to the old chainsaw routine,
get a couple of circular saws in there slicing the unlucky victim down the
middle..(ZZZZ " ...he should never have vented that boiler over my
boundary...") or prehaps a core drill would have been appropriate for that
one.

Now what tool would be most appropriate for an estate agent? :-)

cheers

David

David wrote:
"Terry D" wrote in message
news:8bIAc.900$ZY3.886@newsfe6-win...

BTW, what gets the vote for the most frightening DIY appliance. I think

my

vote must go to chain saws, closely followed by hedge trimmers.

Terry D.



This throws up a scenario for a DIY based horror movie... with some decent
battery powered tools we're no longer limited to the old chainsaw routine,
get a couple of circular saws in there slicing the unlucky victim down the
middle..(ZZZZ " ...he should never have vented that boiler over my
boundary...") or prehaps a core drill would have been appropriate for that
one.

Now what tool would be most appropriate for an estate agent? :-)

Oh, just nail em to the wall and skim coat them, and then artex...?

cheers

David

On Thu, 24 Jun 2004 12:05:17 +0100, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

Now what tool would be most appropriate for an estate agent? :-)

Oh, just nail em to the wall and skim coat them, and then artex...?

Oh no, you'd have the artex on the surface. Artex then skim, much
better. B-)

--
Cheers
Dave. pam is missing e-mail

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message news:cbecka$4q1$1 This
throws up a scenario for a DIY based horror movie... with some decent
battery powered tools we're no longer limited to the old chainsaw
routine,
get a couple of circular saws in there slicing the unlucky victim down
the
middle..(ZZZZ " ...he should never have vented that boiler over my
boundary...") or prehaps a core drill would have been appropriate for
that
one.

Now what tool would be most appropriate for an estate agent? :-)

Oh, just nail em to the wall and skim coat them, and then artex...?


Only provided it's the pre-1980 Artex laced with asbestos.