http://igor.chudov.com/misc/ebay/tmp.../1036.jpg.html

It is 10k lbs and has a tilt bed (I believe). Also has ramps.

I want to use it for surplus dealings for larger items. Any comments?

i

"Ignoramus844" wrote in message
...
http://igor.chudov.com/misc/ebay/tmp.../1036.jpg.html

It is 10k lbs and has a tilt bed (I believe). Also has ramps.

I want to use it for surplus dealings for larger items. Any comments?

i

It was made special for some piece of equipment. It is going to have a lot
of tongue weight. Channel construction looks pretty stout. Diamond plate
fenders. Nicely made, just wondering about load distribution. How much?

Steve

It is 10k lbs and has a tilt bed (I believe). Also has ramps.

I want to use it for surplus dealings for larger items. Any comments?

i

I

The hitch will bear most of the load when ideally the axles/wheels
should carry most of any load. What do you plan to tow it with? Maybe
a 2-1/2 ton truck but surely not the usual pickup that most of us
have. Also be aware of the axle ratings. And get a spare wheel and
tire.

Are the brakes compatable with your tow vehicle?

If the trailer is a former military vehicle all the electric might be
24 Volt DC.

Bob AZ

On Thu, 15 Sep 2011 22:30:50 -0500, Ignoramus844 wrote:

http://igor.chudov.com/misc/ebay/tmp.../1036.jpg.html

It is 10k lbs and has a tilt bed (I believe). Also has ramps.

I want to use it for surplus dealings for larger items. Any comments?

i

What Steve and Bob said. If you want to dick with it you could shorten
up the tongue when you put a ball hitch on it. Then only use it for
small heavy stuff that you center over the front axle or a bit forward.

Or take off the rear axle and only carry half the load.

Or lengthen the bed toward the back.

Or move the axles forward. This may be best long-term solution, but is a
lot of work.

--
www.wescottdesign.com

From this angle, it looks like the axles are biased quite a ways to the rear - this is going to make loading a problem if you want to keep the tongue from going way heavy and fishtailing on you.

If it's long enough to put a car on, you'll have to back it on to have the engine block at the rear.

If you are going to go picking up lathes and mills you need to add some real Stout anchor rings to tie down the loads - get the weld-on rings with the bend in the ring, so they lay inside the channel but pop out and around when in use. Or put on some strap winches and user the huge nylon straps - Or both. Nylon is nice, but you use Chains and Load Binders when it's seriously heavy.

Anchor points down the middle of the trailer too. Recessed, so a pallet doesn't rip them up.

And if you are going to get equipment a lot, I'd rig some sort of a high fence around the bed, like heavy-wall square tubing that slides into pockets but remove for loading and unloading. Nothing works quite like a physical barrier to things sliding forward in an accident.

Don't mess with the pintle ring mount plate on the tongue, you might want to use it again - you can get a 2-5/8" ball hitch adapter that bolts right up to the 4-6-8-10 hole flat-plate or channel systems if you look around.

I wouldn't try towing on the highway with a pintle hitch unless you get one of the big truck hitches with the air-actuated slack buffer and have an air source to charge it on the truck. The slamming and banging every time you hit the gas and the slack changes would drive me bat-**** crazy inside of 5 minutes... I'd be pulling over every time to see if someone tagged me.

Can't see from this angle - but if it has the standard Commercial 4-taillight and the 7-pin Pollak round connector system LEAVE IT - make a cable adapter to American 2-light with a 4-way flat connector or the Small 6-pin Round if you have to tow it behind a heavy pickup. Same reasoning, if you butcher the trailer up too much you'll always regret it later when you have to do it the other way.

A 1-Ton should be OK to tow this with if you get the brakes working, stay inside GCWR and drive sanely. And for {$Deity}'s sake make sure the hitch is up to the task - NO BUMPER HITCHES, a full Class V receiver properly welded to the chassis. Show the hitch guys what you plan to pull, and they'll say "Oh. You need the serious one."

-- Bruce --

On Thu, 15 Sep 2011 22:30:50 -0500, Ignoramus844
wrote:

http://igor.chudov.com/misc/ebay/tmp.../1036.jpg.html

It is 10k lbs and has a tilt bed (I believe). Also has ramps.

I want to use it for surplus dealings for larger items. Any comments?

i

IMHO, if you're planning on hauling serious weight, you need a 5th
wheel / gooseneck trailer. These trailers are made for serious tonge
weight and a one ton or more truck to pull it makes a nice
combination.

This trailer is too heavy leaving little load capacity with the bumper
hitch being the problem. Now, these do work well behind a 2+ ton dump
truck.

Karl

Ignoramus844 wrote:

http://igor.chudov.com/misc/ebay/tmp.../1036.jpg.html

It is 10k lbs and has a tilt bed (I believe). Also has ramps.

I want to use it for surplus dealings for larger items. Any comments?

i

It looks rather heavy for it's size. Really what you should be looking
for if you want a trailer for a surplus business is a hydraulic drop
deck trailer. It doesn't need to be huge, but it will make your life a
lot easier since the entire deck drops down to just a few inches above
ground level and remains level. I see them used very frequently for
scissors lifts used to replace lights in grocery stores and whatnot,
easy to drive the lift on and off. In your case it would allow you to
easily get a palette jack on and off. With a small winch on the trailer
you could easily get a fully loaded 5,000# palette jack load on the
trailer.

Example:

http://ur.com/index.php/equipment/re...ailers&id=2060

On 2011-09-16, Karl Townsend wrote:
On Thu, 15 Sep 2011 22:30:50 -0500, Ignoramus844
wrote:

http://igor.chudov.com/misc/ebay/tmp.../1036.jpg.html

It is 10k lbs and has a tilt bed (I believe). Also has ramps.

I want to use it for surplus dealings for larger items. Any comments?

i

IMHO, if you're planning on hauling serious weight, you need a 5th
wheel / gooseneck trailer. These trailers are made for serious tonge
weight and a one ton or more truck to pull it makes a nice
combination.

This trailer is too heavy leaving little load capacity with the bumper
hitch being the problem. Now, these do work well behind a 2+ ton dump
truck.

Karl


Karl, not to argue, but aren't they all like this?

This is a Kaufman trailer: http://goo.gl/iEi7V

The wheels also seem to be pretty far to the back.

i

Ignoramus844 wrote:

On 2011-09-16, Karl Townsend wrote:
On Thu, 15 Sep 2011 22:30:50 -0500, Ignoramus844
wrote:

http://igor.chudov.com/misc/ebay/tmp.../1036.jpg.html

It is 10k lbs and has a tilt bed (I believe). Also has ramps.

I want to use it for surplus dealings for larger items. Any comments?

i

IMHO, if you're planning on hauling serious weight, you need a 5th
wheel / gooseneck trailer. These trailers are made for serious tonge
weight and a one ton or more truck to pull it makes a nice
combination.

This trailer is too heavy leaving little load capacity with the bumper
hitch being the problem. Now, these do work well behind a 2+ ton dump
truck.

Karl


Karl, not to argue, but aren't they all like this?

The trailer you originally referenced is far more heavily built relative
to it's deck area. I don't know what the gross weight spec on it is, but
it will eat up a lot of your towing capacity with it's curb/light weight
unless you get the noted 2+ ton dump truck which is what it was intended
to be towed with. That trailer is for a Bobcat type loader to be pulled
behind a dump truck, and not much else.


This is a Kaufman trailer: http://goo.gl/iEi7V

That is a normal equipment trailer and will have a lower curb/light
weight leaving you more hauling capacity.


The wheels also seem to be pretty far to the back.

That is also normal. Typically you would be loading the equipment -
tractor, Bobcat, etc. centered over the axles and the space up front
carries other attachments, fuel cans, or materials.

None of these trailers are really ideal for your needs, though they are
common and inexpensive used. See my other post for what you really need.

On Fri, 16 Sep 2011 05:07:49 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


Ignoramus844 wrote:

http://igor.chudov.com/misc/ebay/tmp.../1036.jpg.html

It is 10k lbs and has a tilt bed (I believe). Also has ramps.

I want to use it for surplus dealings for larger items. Any comments?

i

It looks rather heavy for it's size. Really what you should be looking
for if you want a trailer for a surplus business is a hydraulic drop
deck trailer.

Seconded. That would be perfect for Ig, who moves his own things
around a lot and could deliver his sold surplus finds locally for a
choice added fee if he chose to do so.


It doesn't need to be huge, but it will make your life a
lot easier since the entire deck drops down to just a few inches above
ground level and remains level. I see them used very frequently for
scissors lifts used to replace lights in grocery stores and whatnot,
easy to drive the lift on and off. In your case it would allow you to
easily get a palette jack on and off. With a small winch on the trailer
you could easily get a fully loaded 5,000# palette jack load on the
trailer.

Example:

http://ur.com/index.php/equipment/re...ailers&id=2060

http://www.lift-a-load.com/tongue.html Very cool. From ground height
to dock height.

I'm sure Ig (who sucks) can find one in perfect condition for twelve
bucks somewhere, even if it means a road trip.

--
Self-development is a higher duty than self-sacrifice.
-- Elizabeth Cady Stanton

In article ,
Ignoramus844 wrote:

It is 10k lbs and has a tilt bed (I believe). Also has ramps.

I want to use it for surplus dealings for larger items. Any comments?


Yes - that's a pintle loop sliding out the left edge of the picture.
Since we've previously established that you don't have a large
commercial-type truck, you are not equipped to pull this thing. Putting
a pintle hook in the receiver of a pickup does not magically make the
pickup suitable to pull a pintle-loop level of load. This thing wants a
dump truck to pull it.

Keep looking.

I think the suggestion to look for a gooseneck is a good one, if hauling
with a pickup (you've got what - a 3/4 ton?) - having experienced a
trailer removing the bumper of a 1-ton crew-cab truck, it's the sort of
experience I'd suggest avoiding. A gooseneck is a much more robust
hitch, that puts the trailer load in a far better place.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by
Please don't feed the trolls. Killfile and ignore them so they will go away.

On Sep 16, 1:08*am, Bruce Bergman wrote:
From this angle, it looks like the axles are biased quite a ways to the rear - this is going to make loading a problem if you want to keep the tongue from going way heavy and fishtailing on you.

*If it's long enough to put a car on, you'll have to back it on to have the engine block at the rear.

If you are going to go picking up lathes and mills you need to add some real Stout anchor rings to tie down the loads - get the weld-on rings with the bend in the ring, so they lay inside the channel but pop out and around when in use. *Or put on some strap winches and user the huge nylon straps - Or both. *Nylon is nice, but you use Chains and Load Binders when it's seriously heavy.

Anchor points down the middle of the trailer too. *Recessed, so a pallet doesn't rip them up.

And if you are going to get equipment a lot, I'd rig some sort of a high fence around the bed, like heavy-wall square tubing that slides into pockets but remove for loading and unloading. *Nothing works quite like a physical barrier to things sliding forward in an accident.

Don't mess with the pintle ring mount plate on the tongue, you might want to use it again - you can get a 2-5/8" ball hitch adapter that bolts right up to the 4-6-8-10 hole flat-plate or channel systems if you look around.

I wouldn't try towing on the highway with a pintle hitch unless you get one of the big truck hitches with the air-actuated slack buffer and have an air source to charge it on the truck. *The slamming and banging every time you hit the gas and the slack changes would drive me bat-**** crazy inside of 5 minutes... *I'd be pulling over every time to see if someone tagged me.

Can't see from this angle - but if it has the standard Commercial 4-taillight and the 7-pin Pollak round connector system LEAVE IT - make a cable adapter to American 2-light with a 4-way flat connector or the Small 6-pin Round if you have to tow it behind a heavy pickup. *Same reasoning, if you butcher the trailer up too much you'll always regret it later when you have to do it the other way.

A 1-Ton should be OK to tow this with if you get the brakes working, stay inside GCWR and drive sanely. *And for {$Deity}'s sake make sure the hitch is up to the task - NO BUMPER HITCHES, a full Class V receiver properly welded to the chassis. *Show the hitch guys what you plan to pull, and they'll say "Oh. *You need the serious one."

-- Bruce --

Good comments Bruce.

Ig...this is the same type of trailer I started with many years ago,

Very well built...made to haul construction equipment.

Change the hitch to a ball, move the axle ahead when you get around to
it to redistribute the weight (it is built anticipating the center of
weight to be to the rear (think of a Bobcat)) and it will haul a bunch
of stuff.

Posters are right about having a trailer that lowers...but once you
weigh the price difference (hydraulic deck trailers are expensive
used) this trailer can earn you lots of money.

Be sure you have the pickup to pull it...by the time you load a
trailer it can easily overpower the towing vehicle...a mill, a lathe,
a grinder and suddenly the trailer is driving the towing vehicle.

An example...I believe Uhaul requires the towing vehicle to be twice
the weight of the trailer+load being hauled.

Also before buying, check your state laws that affect towing. The laws
in IL are different than those in CA.

Also check to see what your insurance agent thinks...

TMT

On Sep 15, 10:30*pm, Ignoramus844
wrote:
http://igor.chudov.com/misc/ebay/tmp.../1036.jpg.html

It is 10k lbs and has a tilt bed (I believe). Also has ramps.

I want to use it for surplus dealings for larger items. Any comments?

i

Another suggestions Ig...when you are at the auctions at loading time,
take a hard look at what others are using for trailers.

Some setups work great...others are death traps on wheels.

TMT

"Pete C." wrote in message
.com...

Ignoramus844 wrote:

http://igor.chudov.com/misc/ebay/tmp.../1036.jpg.html

It is 10k lbs and has a tilt bed (I believe). Also has ramps.

I want to use it for surplus dealings for larger items. Any comments?

i

It looks rather heavy for it's size. Really what you should be looking
for if you want a trailer for a surplus business is a hydraulic drop
deck trailer. It doesn't need to be huge, but it will make your life a
lot easier since the entire deck drops down to just a few inches above
ground level and remains level. I see them used very frequently for
scissors lifts used to replace lights in grocery stores and whatnot,
easy to drive the lift on and off. In your case it would allow you to
easily get a palette jack on and off. With a small winch on the trailer
you could easily get a fully loaded 5,000# palette jack load on the
trailer.

Example:

http://ur.com/index.php/equipment/re...ailers&id=2060

Those are really cool, but this is a good alternative for less money:
http://www.pjtrailers.com/detail.cfm?ID=T6

On 2011-09-16, Ignoramus844 wrote:
http://igor.chudov.com/misc/ebay/tmp.../1036.jpg.html

It is 10k lbs and has a tilt bed (I believe). Also has ramps.

I want to use it for surplus dealings for larger items. Any comments?

i

Well, I picked it up today (and I need to use it today, also).

It is not too front heavy. As a matter of fact, I can lift the lunette
eye by myself, though it is heavy. I can move this trailer also,
though it is hard to turn. The lights need replacement or rewiring.

The bed really does tilt.

I will see about the brake situation.


i

On 2011-09-16, Ecnerwal wrote:
In article ,
Ignoramus844 wrote:

It is 10k lbs and has a tilt bed (I believe). Also has ramps.

I want to use it for surplus dealings for larger items. Any comments?


Yes - that's a pintle loop sliding out the left edge of the picture.
Since we've previously established that you don't have a large
commercial-type truck, you are not equipped to pull this thing.

Why, I always use a pintle hitch for my enclosed trailer, works
great.

I have a 3/4 ton truck.

Putting a pintle hook in the receiver of a pickup does not magically
make the pickup suitable to pull a pintle-loop level of load. This
thing wants a dump truck to pull it.

I am not sure what it wants, personaly, but it tows just fine, as I
discovered 10 minutes ago.

Keep looking.

I think the suggestion to look for a gooseneck is a good one, if hauling
with a pickup (you've got what - a 3/4 ton?) - having experienced a
trailer removing the bumper of a 1-ton crew-cab truck, it's the sort of
experience I'd suggest avoiding. A gooseneck is a much more robust
hitch, that puts the trailer load in a far better place.

I personally have a proper trailer hitch. A gooseneck is a fifth wheel
setup, right? So it uses up the trailed bed space?

i

On 2011-09-16, Steve B wrote:

"Ignoramus844" wrote in message
...
http://igor.chudov.com/misc/ebay/tmp.../1036.jpg.html

It is 10k lbs and has a tilt bed (I believe). Also has ramps.

I want to use it for surplus dealings for larger items. Any comments?

i

It was made special for some piece of equipment. It is going to have a lot
of tongue weight. Channel construction looks pretty stout. Diamond plate
fenders. Nicely made, just wondering about load distribution. How much?

Steve



Weight distribution is OK, I cal lift the pintle by myself (it is hard
though). I am not proud of what I paid, but I need to use it today and
I need it in general, and it works. Bearings seem to stay cool.

i

On Sep 16, 12:23*pm, Ignoramus7432
wrote:
On 2011-09-16, Ecnerwal wrote:

In article ,
*Ignoramus844 wrote:

It is 10k lbs and has a tilt bed (I believe). Also has ramps.

I want to use it for surplus dealings for larger items. Any comments?

Yes - that's a pintle loop sliding out the left edge of the picture.
Since we've previously established that you don't have a large
commercial-type truck, you are not equipped to pull this thing.

Why, I always use a pintle hitch for my enclosed trailer, works
great.

I have a 3/4 ton truck.

Putting a pintle hook in the receiver of a pickup does not magically
make the pickup suitable to pull a pintle-loop level of load. This
thing wants a dump truck to pull it.

I am not sure what it wants, personaly, but it tows just fine, as I
discovered 10 minutes ago.

Keep looking.

I think the suggestion to look for a gooseneck is a good one, if hauling
with a pickup (you've got what - a 3/4 ton?) - having experienced a
trailer removing the bumper of a 1-ton crew-cab truck, it's the sort of
experience I'd suggest avoiding. A gooseneck is a much more robust
hitch, that puts the trailer load in a far better place.

I personally have a proper trailer hitch. A gooseneck is a fifth wheel
setup, right? So it uses up the trailed bed space?

i

Ig..how about posting some closeup pictures?

TMT

ATP wrote:

"Pete C." wrote in message
.com...

Ignoramus844 wrote:

http://igor.chudov.com/misc/ebay/tmp.../1036.jpg.html

It is 10k lbs and has a tilt bed (I believe). Also has ramps.

I want to use it for surplus dealings for larger items. Any comments?

i

It looks rather heavy for it's size. Really what you should be looking
for if you want a trailer for a surplus business is a hydraulic drop
deck trailer. It doesn't need to be huge, but it will make your life a
lot easier since the entire deck drops down to just a few inches above
ground level and remains level. I see them used very frequently for
scissors lifts used to replace lights in grocery stores and whatnot,
easy to drive the lift on and off. In your case it would allow you to
easily get a palette jack on and off. With a small winch on the trailer
you could easily get a fully loaded 5,000# palette jack load on the
trailer.

Example:

http://ur.com/index.php/equipment/re...ailers&id=2060

Those are really cool, but this is a good alternative for less money:
http://www.pjtrailers.com/detail.cfm?ID=T6

Yep those work for a lot of applications, like those with stable
relatively low COG rolling loads like tractors. Machinery tends to be
small footprint and high COG like a Bridgeport, so having a level drop
deck that only presents a few inch lip is a lot easier and safer for
loading and unloading. It also lets you use an inexpensive palette jack
to move loads vs. an expensive forklift.

Ignoramus7432 wrote:

On 2011-09-16, Ecnerwal wrote:
In article ,
Ignoramus844 wrote:

It is 10k lbs and has a tilt bed (I believe). Also has ramps.

I want to use it for surplus dealings for larger items. Any comments?


Yes - that's a pintle loop sliding out the left edge of the picture.
Since we've previously established that you don't have a large
commercial-type truck, you are not equipped to pull this thing.

Why, I always use a pintle hitch for my enclosed trailer, works
great.

I have a 3/4 ton truck.

Putting a pintle hook in the receiver of a pickup does not magically
make the pickup suitable to pull a pintle-loop level of load. This
thing wants a dump truck to pull it.

I am not sure what it wants, personaly, but it tows just fine, as I
discovered 10 minutes ago.

Yes, it will tow fine unloaded, however you will not be able to load
much cargo without exceeding your hitch tongue weight rating. Those dump
trucks that this trailer is intended to be towed by have tongue weight
capacities several times that of your hitch.

Since this trailer is intended to be towed by those medium duty trucks,
it's curb weight alone will be a good chunk of your total trailer
capacity and you will not be able to reach the trailer's cargo rating
without significantly exceeding your hitch rating.


Keep looking.

I think the suggestion to look for a gooseneck is a good one, if hauling
with a pickup (you've got what - a 3/4 ton?) - having experienced a
trailer removing the bumper of a 1-ton crew-cab truck, it's the sort of
experience I'd suggest avoiding. A gooseneck is a much more robust
hitch, that puts the trailer load in a far better place.

I personally have a proper trailer hitch. A gooseneck is a fifth wheel
setup, right? So it uses up the trailed bed space?

A gooseneck hitch takes up pickup bed space, however there is still
quite a bit of useable space for lower toolboxes, fuel cans, rigging
supplies and the like. While your receiver hitch can handle a 500#
tongue weight (1,000# with a weight distributing hitch), a gooseneck
hitch can take 3,000# or more of hitch weight (subject to vehicle
ratings) and it places it properly on your rear axle which also puts the
pivot point at a better location.

A typical 3/4T pickup can handle a 10,000# gross trailer weight with a
1,000# tongue weight on a receiver hitch. A typical 3/4T pickup can
handle a 15,000#+ gross trailer weight with a 1,500#+ pin weight on a
gooseneck hitch. The difference becomes more dramatic as you move up to
a 1T or larger truck since the receiver hitch capacity doesn't really
increase.

Ignoramus7432 wrote:

On 2011-09-16, Steve B wrote:

"Ignoramus844" wrote in message
...
http://igor.chudov.com/misc/ebay/tmp.../1036.jpg.html

It is 10k lbs and has a tilt bed (I believe). Also has ramps.

I want to use it for surplus dealings for larger items. Any comments?

i

It was made special for some piece of equipment. It is going to have a lot
of tongue weight. Channel construction looks pretty stout. Diamond plate
fenders. Nicely made, just wondering about load distribution. How much?

Steve



Weight distribution is OK, I cal lift the pintle by myself (it is hard
though). I am not proud of what I paid, but I need to use it today and
I need it in general, and it works. Bearings seem to stay cool.

i

Bearings will certainly stay cool (if you keep them greased) since you
will never be able to load the trailer to it's rated capacity without
overloading your truck. The overall point we're trying to make is that
since that trailer is built for more weight than your truck can handle
by a large amount, you are loosing significant cargo capacity to the
trailers excessively heavy construction.

Is there a data plate with the curb/light weight on the trailer? I'll
guess it's 6,000-7,000# which eats up most of your truck's 10,000# gross
trailer load rating. My 24' enclosed trailer weighs 3,800# or so giving
me 6,200# cargo capacity on a normal 10,000# rated hitch. My truck has a
class IV receiver so I can push the trailer weight up an extra 1,000#+
for even more safe cargo capacity (trailer axles are 7,000# and tires
2,880# for 11,500#+ rated capacity).

....

Ditto. What Pete said.

Ditto. What Pete said.

It is not too front heavy. As a matter of fact, I can lift the lunette
eye by myself, though it is heavy.

I think everyone's comments on the axle location is based on the
camera angle of the original photo, combined with the width of the
fenders. It makes it look like the near side tandem is right at the
back of the trailer, but looking at the far side fender shows it is
actually much closer to a standard 60/40 setup (on a tandem, measure
to the pivot pin on the walking beam between the springs). If you
post a square side-on shot, I suspect most of these comments will
stop.

So with a 10k rating, I assume there are brakes on both axles? In my
state, trailers with that sort of rating also need to be inspected
(the cutoff for brakes and inspections is 3k, here).

So what'd you haul home that needed that sort of capacity, a VMC?
Forklift? Wasp radial? CNC plasma table? Several pallets of
untempered import hammer heads? Tire from an earth mover to be used
as a jungle gym?

--Glenn Lyford

On 2011-09-16, Pete C. wrote:

Ignoramus7432 wrote:

On 2011-09-16, Steve B wrote:

"Ignoramus844" wrote in message
...
http://igor.chudov.com/misc/ebay/tmp.../1036.jpg.html

It is 10k lbs and has a tilt bed (I believe). Also has ramps.

I want to use it for surplus dealings for larger items. Any comments?

i

It was made special for some piece of equipment. It is going to have a lot
of tongue weight. Channel construction looks pretty stout. Diamond plate
fenders. Nicely made, just wondering about load distribution. How much?

Steve



Weight distribution is OK, I cal lift the pintle by myself (it is hard
though). I am not proud of what I paid, but I need to use it today and
I need it in general, and it works. Bearings seem to stay cool.

i

Bearings will certainly stay cool (if you keep them greased) since you
will never be able to load the trailer to it's rated capacity without
overloading your truck. The overall point we're trying to make is that
since that trailer is built for more weight than your truck can handle
by a large amount, you are loosing significant cargo capacity to the
trailers excessively heavy construction.

Is there a data plate with the curb/light weight on the trailer? I'll
guess it's 6,000-7,000# which eats up most of your truck's 10,000# gross
trailer load rating. My 24' enclosed trailer weighs 3,800# or so giving
me 6,200# cargo capacity on a normal 10,000# rated hitch. My truck has a
class IV receiver so I can push the trailer weight up an extra 1,000#+
for even more safe cargo capacity (trailer axles are 7,000# and tires
2,880# for 11,500#+ rated capacity).

I am guessing that the empty trailer weighs 2,000 lbs, 3,000 at most.

i

Ignoramus7432 wrote:

On 2011-09-16, Pete C. wrote:

Ignoramus7432 wrote:

On 2011-09-16, Steve B wrote:

"Ignoramus844" wrote in message
...
http://igor.chudov.com/misc/ebay/tmp.../1036.jpg.html

It is 10k lbs and has a tilt bed (I believe). Also has ramps.

I want to use it for surplus dealings for larger items. Any comments?

i

It was made special for some piece of equipment. It is going to have a lot
of tongue weight. Channel construction looks pretty stout. Diamond plate
fenders. Nicely made, just wondering about load distribution. How much?

Steve



Weight distribution is OK, I cal lift the pintle by myself (it is hard
though). I am not proud of what I paid, but I need to use it today and
I need it in general, and it works. Bearings seem to stay cool.

i

Bearings will certainly stay cool (if you keep them greased) since you
will never be able to load the trailer to it's rated capacity without
overloading your truck. The overall point we're trying to make is that
since that trailer is built for more weight than your truck can handle
by a large amount, you are loosing significant cargo capacity to the
trailers excessively heavy construction.

Is there a data plate with the curb/light weight on the trailer? I'll
guess it's 6,000-7,000# which eats up most of your truck's 10,000# gross
trailer load rating. My 24' enclosed trailer weighs 3,800# or so giving
me 6,200# cargo capacity on a normal 10,000# rated hitch. My truck has a
class IV receiver so I can push the trailer weight up an extra 1,000#+
for even more safe cargo capacity (trailer axles are 7,000# and tires
2,880# for 11,500#+ rated capacity).

I am guessing that the empty trailer weighs 2,000 lbs, 3,000 at most.

i

Take it to a scale at a truck stop and weight it. A truck scale will
give you your front axle, rear axle, trailer and gross combined weights
for about $10.

On 2011-09-16, Pete C. wrote:

Ignoramus7432 wrote:
I am guessing that the empty trailer weighs 2,000 lbs, 3,000 at most.

Take it to a scale at a truck stop and weight it. A truck scale will
give you your front axle, rear axle, trailer and gross combined weights
for about $10.

Great idea.

And this is how it looks:

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

With a photo shot straight from a side, it does not look that unbalanced.

i

Ignoramus7432 wrote:

On 2011-09-16, Pete C. wrote:

Ignoramus7432 wrote:
I am guessing that the empty trailer weighs 2,000 lbs, 3,000 at most.

Take it to a scale at a truck stop and weight it. A truck scale will
give you your front axle, rear axle, trailer and gross combined weights
for about $10.

Great idea.

And this is how it looks:

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

With a photo shot straight from a side, it does not look that unbalanced.

i

Nope, but it looks heavy. Also those are the two piece clamp type
wheels, which are an older heavy duty style. You're going to want a
spare of course.

On 2011-09-16, Pete C. wrote:

Ignoramus7432 wrote:

On 2011-09-16, Pete C. wrote:

Ignoramus7432 wrote:
I am guessing that the empty trailer weighs 2,000 lbs, 3,000 at most.

Take it to a scale at a truck stop and weight it. A truck scale will
give you your front axle, rear axle, trailer and gross combined weights
for about $10.

Great idea.

And this is how it looks:

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

With a photo shot straight from a side, it does not look that unbalanced.

i

Nope, but it looks heavy. Also those are the two piece clamp type
wheels, which are an older heavy duty style. You're going to want a
spare of course.

It looks heavy to you because it is a tilt bed.

i

"Pete C." wrote in message
.com...

ATP wrote:

"Pete C." wrote in message
.com...

Ignoramus844 wrote:

http://igor.chudov.com/misc/ebay/tmp.../1036.jpg.html

It is 10k lbs and has a tilt bed (I believe). Also has ramps.

I want to use it for surplus dealings for larger items. Any comments?

i

It looks rather heavy for it's size. Really what you should be looking
for if you want a trailer for a surplus business is a hydraulic drop
deck trailer. It doesn't need to be huge, but it will make your life a
lot easier since the entire deck drops down to just a few inches above
ground level and remains level. I see them used very frequently for
scissors lifts used to replace lights in grocery stores and whatnot,
easy to drive the lift on and off. In your case it would allow you to
easily get a palette jack on and off. With a small winch on the trailer
you could easily get a fully loaded 5,000# palette jack load on the
trailer.

Example:

http://ur.com/index.php/equipment/re...ailers&id=2060

Those are really cool, but this is a good alternative for less money:
http://www.pjtrailers.com/detail.cfm?ID=T6

Yep those work for a lot of applications, like those with stable
relatively low COG rolling loads like tractors. Machinery tends to be
small footprint and high COG like a Bridgeport, so having a level drop
deck that only presents a few inch lip is a lot easier and safer for
loading and unloading. It also lets you use an inexpensive palette jack
to move loads vs. an expensive forklift.

The dropdeck is definitely better. But with a winch mounted on the front of
the tilt deck, you can move a lot of stuff fairly safely. I moved a
Bridgeport with a landscape trailer by removing the back ramp and jacking up
the front until the back of the deck was on the ground. Not ideal, but I got
the machine in my garage.

Ignoramus7432 wrote:

On 2011-09-16, Pete C. wrote:

Ignoramus7432 wrote:

On 2011-09-16, Pete C. wrote:

Ignoramus7432 wrote:
I am guessing that the empty trailer weighs 2,000 lbs, 3,000 at most.

Take it to a scale at a truck stop and weight it. A truck scale will
give you your front axle, rear axle, trailer and gross combined weights
for about $10.

Great idea.

And this is how it looks:

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

With a photo shot straight from a side, it does not look that unbalanced.

i

Nope, but it looks heavy. Also those are the two piece clamp type
wheels, which are an older heavy duty style. You're going to want a
spare of course.

It looks heavy to you because it is a tilt bed.

i

We'll see who's estimate is closest to correct once you weigh it...

On 2011-09-17, ATP wrote:
Yep those work for a lot of applications, like those with stable
relatively low COG rolling loads like tractors. Machinery tends to be
small footprint and high COG like a Bridgeport, so having a level drop
deck that only presents a few inch lip is a lot easier and safer for
loading and unloading. It also lets you use an inexpensive palette jack
to move loads vs. an expensive forklift.

The dropdeck is definitely better. But with a winch mounted on the front of
the tilt deck, you can move a lot of stuff fairly safely. I moved a
Bridgeport with a landscape trailer by removing the back ramp and jacking up
the front until the back of the deck was on the ground. Not ideal, but I got
the machine in my garage.



Guys, sorry for a dumb questionm how do those tilt beds work? Are they
supposed to be raised unloaded, then equipment driven on, and it would
drop back to its original position when the forklift or bobcat deives
far enough forward? Is that right?

On Sep 16, 9:42*pm, Ignoramus7432
wrote:
On 2011-09-17, ATP wrote:

Yep those work for a lot of applications, like those with stable
relatively low COG rolling loads like tractors. Machinery tends to be
small footprint and high COG like a Bridgeport, so having a level drop
deck that only presents a few inch lip is a lot easier and safer for
loading and unloading. It also lets you use an inexpensive palette jack
to move loads vs. an expensive forklift.

The dropdeck is definitely better. But with a winch mounted on the front of
the tilt deck, you can move a lot of stuff fairly safely. I moved a
Bridgeport with a landscape trailer by removing the back ramp and jacking up
the front until the back of the deck was on the ground. Not ideal, but I got
the machine in my garage.

Guys, sorry for a dumb questionm how do those tilt beds work? Are they
supposed to be raised unloaded, then equipment driven on, and it would
drop back to its original position when the forklift or bobcat deives
far enough forward? Is that right?

Ig...there is nothing such as a dumb question.

Yes that is right...most decks have a hydraulic cylinder that controls
the rate of drop.

TMT

Ignoramus7432 wrote:
On 2011-09-17, ATP wrote:
Yep those work for a lot of applications, like those with stable
relatively low COG rolling loads like tractors. Machinery tends to be
small footprint and high COG like a Bridgeport, so having a level drop
deck that only presents a few inch lip is a lot easier and safer for
loading and unloading. It also lets you use an inexpensive palette jack
to move loads vs. an expensive forklift.
The dropdeck is definitely better. But with a winch mounted on the front of
the tilt deck, you can move a lot of stuff fairly safely. I moved a
Bridgeport with a landscape trailer by removing the back ramp and jacking up
the front until the back of the deck was on the ground. Not ideal, but I got
the machine in my garage.



Guys, sorry for a dumb questionm how do those tilt beds work? Are they
supposed to be raised unloaded, then equipment driven on, and it would
drop back to its original position when the forklift or bobcat deives
far enough forward? Is that right?

Depends on the design but what you have is right for many.

When empty they will tilt up so you can load. Some use hydraulics,
others use a sliding axle system, others just gravity.

That trailer you posted looks like a standard beavertail that doesn't
actually tilt. You drop the rear ramps and drive up those.


--
Steve W.

On 2011-09-17, Steve W. wrote:
Ignoramus7432 wrote:
On 2011-09-17, ATP wrote:
Yep those work for a lot of applications, like those with stable
relatively low COG rolling loads like tractors. Machinery tends to be
small footprint and high COG like a Bridgeport, so having a level drop
deck that only presents a few inch lip is a lot easier and safer for
loading and unloading. It also lets you use an inexpensive palette jack
to move loads vs. an expensive forklift.
The dropdeck is definitely better. But with a winch mounted on the front of
the tilt deck, you can move a lot of stuff fairly safely. I moved a
Bridgeport with a landscape trailer by removing the back ramp and jacking up
the front until the back of the deck was on the ground. Not ideal, but I got
the machine in my garage.



Guys, sorry for a dumb questionm how do those tilt beds work? Are they
supposed to be raised unloaded, then equipment driven on, and it would
drop back to its original position when the forklift or bobcat deives
far enough forward? Is that right?

Depends on the design but what you have is right for many.

When empty they will tilt up so you can load. Some use hydraulics,
others use a sliding axle system, others just gravity.

That trailer you posted looks like a standard beavertail that doesn't
actually tilt. You drop the rear ramps and drive up those.



It does tilt, for sure. I cannot try it right now, because it is
loaded.

i

On Thu, 15 Sep 2011 22:30:50 -0500, Ignoramus844
wrote:

http://igor.chudov.com/misc/ebay/tmp.../1036.jpg.html

It is 10k lbs and has a tilt bed (I believe). Also has ramps.

I want to use it for surplus dealings for larger items. Any comments?

i

Nice well made trailer. However..it is a bit short.

Which might not be a problem for you..depending on the type of surplus.

Unless you are buying big lathes or CNC centers..I think it would work
nicely for you.

Gunner

"In the history of mankind, there have always been men and women who's goal
in life is to take down nations. We have just elected such a man to run our
country." - David Lloyyd (2008)

On Fri, 16 Sep 2011 16:15:45 -0500, Ignoramus7432
wrote:

On 2011-09-16, Pete C. wrote:

Ignoramus7432 wrote:
I am guessing that the empty trailer weighs 2,000 lbs, 3,000 at most.

Take it to a scale at a truck stop and weight it. A truck scale will
give you your front axle, rear axle, trailer and gross combined weights
for about $10.

Great idea.

And this is how it looks:

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

With a photo shot straight from a side, it does not look that unbalanced.

i

Its much longer than the original photo showed. That will work nicely
for virtually all of your hauling needs.

Gonna make us all drool over the price?

Gunner

"In the history of mankind, there have always been men and women who's goal
in life is to take down nations. We have just elected such a man to run our
country." - David Lloyyd (2008)

On 2011-09-18, Karl Townsend wrote:
On Sat, 17 Sep 2011 19:47:03 -0500, Ignoramus8416
wrote:

On 2011-09-17, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Thu, 15 Sep 2011 22:30:50 -0500, Ignoramus844
wrote:

http://igor.chudov.com/misc/ebay/tmp.../1036.jpg.html

It is 10k lbs and has a tilt bed (I believe). Also has ramps.

I want to use it for surplus dealings for larger items. Any comments?

i

Nice well made trailer. However..it is a bit short.

Which might not be a problem for you..depending on the type of surplus.

Unless you are buying big lathes or CNC centers..I think it would work
nicely for you.

The photo is more confusing than helpful. It makes it look shorted and
heavier on the nose than it really is.

Here's a better photo that I made after loading a 6,000lbs crane on
it:

http://goo.gl/Gbnn3

The trailer has a 14 foot bed.

I have a feeling, based on something factual, that this is actually a
12k trailer, but it is titled as 10k, which is fine with me.



Proof that a pic can confuse things. I would have said nine feet with
six ahead of the wheels.


This is where picture decoding skills come helpful. On the left side
-- closest to the photographer -- you see the part ahead of the wheels
enlarged, and the area behind the wheels obscured.

Now, if you would look at the right side of the trailer -- farthest
from the photographer -- the trailer proportions do not look so
crazy.

I went to the auction site and actually looked at it before bidding,
as I needed a trailer ASAP and did not want to byu a lemon.

After putting about 300 miles on it, this one does not seem to be a
lemon, however the electricals do not work. Also, the front lifting
jack clearly bent itself out of position.


i

On Sep 17, 9:40*pm, Ignoramus8416
wrote:
On 2011-09-18, Karl Townsend wrote:





On Sat, 17 Sep 2011 19:47:03 -0500, Ignoramus8416
wrote:

On 2011-09-17, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Thu, 15 Sep 2011 22:30:50 -0500, Ignoramus844
wrote:

http://igor.chudov.com/misc/ebay/tmp.../1036.jpg.html

It is 10k lbs and has a tilt bed (I believe). Also has ramps.

I want to use it for surplus dealings for larger items. Any comments?

i

Nice well made trailer. *However..it is a bit short.

Which might not be a problem for you..depending on the type of surplus.

Unless you are buying big lathes or CNC centers..I think it would work
nicely for you.

The photo is more confusing than helpful. It makes it look shorted and
heavier on the nose than it really is.

Here's a better photo that I made after loading a 6,000lbs crane on
it:

* * * *http://goo.gl/Gbnn3

The trailer has a 14 foot bed.

I have a feeling, based on something factual, that this is actually a
12k trailer, but it is titled as 10k, which is fine with me.

Proof that a pic can confuse things. I would have said nine feet with
six ahead of the wheels.

This is where picture decoding skills come helpful. On the left side
-- closest to the photographer -- you see the part ahead of the wheels
enlarged, and the area behind the wheels obscured.

Now, if you would look at the right side of the trailer -- farthest
from the photographer -- the trailer proportions do not look so
crazy.

I went to the auction site and actually looked at it before bidding,
as I needed a trailer ASAP and did not want to byu a lemon.

After putting about 300 miles on it, this one does not seem to be a
lemon, however the electricals do not work. Also, the front lifting
jack clearly bent itself out of position.

i- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Ig...I think you will be happy with the trailer.

The jack and wiring are easy items to fix.

TMT

Ignoramus8416 wrote:
On 2011-09-17, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Thu, 15 Sep 2011 22:30:50 -0500, Ignoramus844
wrote:

http://igor.chudov.com/misc/ebay/tmp.../1036.jpg.html

It is 10k lbs and has a tilt bed (I believe). Also has ramps.

I want to use it for surplus dealings for larger items. Any comments?

i
Nice well made trailer. However..it is a bit short.

Which might not be a problem for you..depending on the type of surplus.

Unless you are buying big lathes or CNC centers..I think it would work
nicely for you.

The photo is more confusing than helpful. It makes it look shorted and
heavier on the nose than it really is.

Here's a better photo that I made after loading a 6,000lbs crane on
it:

http://goo.gl/Gbnn3

The trailer has a 14 foot bed.

I have a feeling, based on something factual, that this is actually a
12k trailer, but it is titled as 10k, which is fine with me.

i

I hope the "factual" item isn't a rating plate on the trailer. That
plate is what the DOT goes by to determine if the trailer is CDL level
or not.

If it says 12K I hope you have a CDL. Unless you like large fines.

--
Steve W.