On Sep 16, 1:08*am, Bruce Bergman wrote:
From this angle, it looks like the axles are biased quite a ways to the rear - this is going to make loading a problem if you want to keep the tongue from going way heavy and fishtailing on you.

*If it's long enough to put a car on, you'll have to back it on to have the engine block at the rear.

If you are going to go picking up lathes and mills you need to add some real Stout anchor rings to tie down the loads - get the weld-on rings with the bend in the ring, so they lay inside the channel but pop out and around when in use. *Or put on some strap winches and user the huge nylon straps - Or both. *Nylon is nice, but you use Chains and Load Binders when it's seriously heavy.

Anchor points down the middle of the trailer too. *Recessed, so a pallet doesn't rip them up.

And if you are going to get equipment a lot, I'd rig some sort of a high fence around the bed, like heavy-wall square tubing that slides into pockets but remove for loading and unloading. *Nothing works quite like a physical barrier to things sliding forward in an accident.

Don't mess with the pintle ring mount plate on the tongue, you might want to use it again - you can get a 2-5/8" ball hitch adapter that bolts right up to the 4-6-8-10 hole flat-plate or channel systems if you look around.

I wouldn't try towing on the highway with a pintle hitch unless you get one of the big truck hitches with the air-actuated slack buffer and have an air source to charge it on the truck. *The slamming and banging every time you hit the gas and the slack changes would drive me bat-**** crazy inside of 5 minutes... *I'd be pulling over every time to see if someone tagged me.

Can't see from this angle - but if it has the standard Commercial 4-taillight and the 7-pin Pollak round connector system LEAVE IT - make a cable adapter to American 2-light with a 4-way flat connector or the Small 6-pin Round if you have to tow it behind a heavy pickup. *Same reasoning, if you butcher the trailer up too much you'll always regret it later when you have to do it the other way.

A 1-Ton should be OK to tow this with if you get the brakes working, stay inside GCWR and drive sanely. *And for {$Deity}'s sake make sure the hitch is up to the task - NO BUMPER HITCHES, a full Class V receiver properly welded to the chassis. *Show the hitch guys what you plan to pull, and they'll say "Oh. *You need the serious one."

-- Bruce --

Good comments Bruce.

Ig...this is the same type of trailer I started with many years ago,

Very well built...made to haul construction equipment.

Change the hitch to a ball, move the axle ahead when you get around to
it to redistribute the weight (it is built anticipating the center of
weight to be to the rear (think of a Bobcat)) and it will haul a bunch
of stuff.

Posters are right about having a trailer that lowers...but once you
weigh the price difference (hydraulic deck trailers are expensive
used) this trailer can earn you lots of money.

Be sure you have the pickup to pull it...by the time you load a
trailer it can easily overpower the towing vehicle...a mill, a lathe,
a grinder and suddenly the trailer is driving the towing vehicle.

An example...I believe Uhaul requires the towing vehicle to be twice
the weight of the trailer+load being hauled.

Also before buying, check your state laws that affect towing. The laws
in IL are different than those in CA.

Also check to see what your insurance agent thinks...

TMT