On 10/22/2015 7:07 PM, wrote:

10 MM, doesn't work with anything out of my SAE box.

Yup I have a 10mm in my SAE set, because of that.
You see metric stuff pop up in the strangest places. The other strange
one is 7mm
I have a slip handle nut driver that came with 1/4" and 5/16 " and
used to open just about anything with hex sheet metal screws.

I ended up getting another one, cutting off the 1/4" and adding a 7mm.
5/16 and 8mm are functionally the same.
If you have that and a 10mm socket, you can do just about anything you
are going to do with a Yamaha mid range outboard on the water.


I was able to get a couple 10 mm sockets, and put
in with my English sets. Got tired of looking around
to find one in another tool box.

The other sizes, well, don't see them quite as often.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 10/22/2015 7:12 PM, wrote:

The pawn shop is the best place to get loose sockets. They usually
have a big box of them for a buck each and usually you get a discount
on more than a few.
I put a whole set of name brand sockets together for $5 along with a
few spares of the ones you use/lose a lot.
I found out about that 10mm thing years ago when the commie metric
thing was just catching hold here


Can't say as I've ever been in a pawn shop.
Might be a good reason to try it.

I do agree about the commie metric thing.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Thursday, October 22, 2015 at 12:59:09 PM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Doing some vehicle work yesterday. SAE socket set
won't work, becuae 10 MM is between 3/8 and 7/16.
And 13 MM is between 1/2 and 9/16.

Suppose I buy metric socket set. Will I have the
same problem workign on English size fasteners?

Do I need to wrench sets in each vehicle?

-
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.
.

I have this interesting set, grips hex, rounded-worn hex, external torx, and spline. (got mine at Menards for $20) http://www.amazon.com/Crescent-CX6PT...ent+socket+set

On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 19:26:17 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 10/22/2015 7:12 PM, wrote:

The pawn shop is the best place to get loose sockets. They usually
have a big box of them for a buck each and usually you get a discount
on more than a few.
I put a whole set of name brand sockets together for $5 along with a
few spares of the ones you use/lose a lot.
I found out about that 10mm thing years ago when the commie metric
thing was just catching hold here


Can't say as I've ever been in a pawn shop.
Might be a good reason to try it.


There is one right next to my barber shop. I always cruise through
after getting a haircut, just to see what they have. You can usually
get DVDs for a buck too but they seldom have anything I want to watch.

On 10/22/2015 7:42 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 19:26:17 -0400, Stormin Mormon

Can't say as I've ever been in a pawn shop.
Might be a good reason to try it.


There is one right next to my barber shop. I always cruise through
after getting a haircut, just to see what they have. You can usually
get DVDs for a buck too but they seldom have anything I want to watch.


Just a SWAG, bet most of the pawn shop DVD
are rated R, X, or XXX?

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 10/22/2015 11:59 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Do I need to wrench sets in each vehicle?

I've got metric sets in the Suzuki bikes and the Toyota. I have both in
the Ford and Harley. The Japanese use metric, the Americans use whatever
was in the parts bin.

On 10/22/2015 04:06 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Why is it "catching up" when SAE worked fine
for 100 years or so? It's not like we had all
kind of trouble with SAE sizes. And, to boot,
we were here first. Metric is the upstart.

Metric tools have one advantage; when you're laying under the vehicle
it's easier to yell 'Get me the 20, honey', than 'Fetch me the 13/16th,
bitch.'

On 10/22/2015 03:56 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I see 10 MM every which where, and it doesn't
work with any of the SAE sizes. Is there a list
on the web, which sizes convert?

http://www.carolynrelei.com/inchchart.htm

On 10/22/2015 05:25 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I was able to get a couple 10 mm sockets, and put
in with my English sets. Got tired of looking around
to find one in another tool box.

That would be you SAE sets. The British Whitworth fasteners are another
perversion.

On 10/22/2015 02:36 PM, wrote:
Might be worth a road trip up to Buffalo/Niagara or up to
Kingston/thousand Islands to snag yourself a set this week. The
Mastercraft tools are VERY good value.

I doubt Stormin can get a passport...

On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 21:08:40 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 10/22/2015 7:42 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 19:26:17 -0400, Stormin Mormon

Can't say as I've ever been in a pawn shop.
Might be a good reason to try it.


There is one right next to my barber shop. I always cruise through
after getting a haircut, just to see what they have. You can usually
get DVDs for a buck too but they seldom have anything I want to watch.


Just a SWAG, bet most of the pawn shop DVD
are rated R, X, or XXX?

Nope, they are ,mostly "action adventure" movies that nobody really
cares about, mixed with everything from Disney to chick flicks.

On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 19:23:25 -0600, rbowman
wrote:

On 10/22/2015 05:25 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I was able to get a couple 10 mm sockets, and put
in with my English sets. Got tired of looking around
to find one in another tool box.

That would be you SAE sets. The British Whitworth fasteners are another
perversion.

Watch it, you will have people talking about BA soon.
I know a 2 BA is ~5/16 but that is about it.

On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 17:56:57 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 10/22/2015 4:32 PM, wrote:
Most current "american" cars are fully metric, but they use the
oddball 13mm and 11mm etc that are almost identical to SAE sises (1/2
and 11/16) as well as the unique metrics like 10 and 12


I see 10 MM every which where, and it doesn't
work with any of the SAE sizes. Is there a list
on the web, which sizes convert?

13 MM is slightly larger than 1/2 inch, but some
looser sockets will work.

10 MM, doesn't work with anything out of my SAE box.
It won't. Just type "convert 10mm to inches" into Google.

On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 17:58:06 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 10/22/2015 4:36 PM, wrote:
Too bad you are in Yankland instead of here in Canada - Canadian
Tire has their Mastercraft combination set - all metric and inch -
1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 inch drive - on sale for $159 - normally about $600.
Might be worth a road trip up to Buffalo/Niagara or up to
Kingston/thousand Islands to snag yourself a set this week. The
Mastercraft tools are VERY good value.


That's a first class set of wrenches, but
I'm on a Harbor Freight budget.
At $159 it's as close to HF pricing as you can get for a top-line
set of tools. It IS a $600 set.

On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 18:01:00 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 10/22/2015 4:46 PM, Oren wrote:
Most current "american" cars are fully metric, but they use the
oddball 13mm and 11mm etc that are almost identical to SAE sises (1/2
and 11/16) as well as the unique metrics like 10 and 12

"Most"? My recent new four way lug wrench is SAE.


You use your SAE lug wrench on your 19 and 21 MM lugs?
Yes, when necessary - but I virtually NEVER use a lug wrench. I use
my 1/2" drive 24 or 30 inch Johnson bar with my appropriately sized 6
point deep socket - usually my impact socket- to break the lugs loose,
then my nut spinner to spin them off. Then I spin them back on, and
torque them with my (about the only Snap-On tool I have) torque
wrench.

Can't remember the last time I've had to change a tire on the road -I
think it was on my 1963 Valiant back in about 1971 - with a bumper
jack and no bumper - - - -

On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 18:04:14 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 10/22/2015 2:04 PM, wrote:

These days you need both to work on just about anything.


So true. I went to change a brake on a friend's
wheel chair. Went out and got my socket set.
Wonders, the nut needs 10 MM, and I didn't have
one in my SAE set. That started a quest to find
10 MM sockets sold separately. HF has them, in
deep, and 3/8 drive. Not much help with my 1/4
drive socket sets.
Your 1/4 inch drive set is not the right set for your use. You most
certainly should have bought a 3/8" set.

On 10/22/2015 7:18 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 17:56:57 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 10/22/2015 4:32 PM, wrote:
Most current "american" cars are fully metric, but they use the
oddball 13mm and 11mm etc that are almost identical to SAE sises (1/2
and 11/16) as well as the unique metrics like 10 and 12


I see 10 MM every which where, and it doesn't
work with any of the SAE sizes. Is there a list
on the web, which sizes convert?

13 MM is slightly larger than 1/2 inch, but some
looser sockets will work.

10 MM, doesn't work with anything out of my SAE box.
It won't. Just type "convert 10mm to inches" into Google.

Shirtcuff estimate: 2.5mm = .1 inches
So, 10mm ~= .4 inches (it's actually .3937)
3/8" = .375
1/2" = .500
so 7/16 is the only "standard" SAE size that would be
possible choice. But, it's .4375 (split the difference
between 3/8 and 1/2) so no fit.

You also have to consider how you're converting. I.e.,
you can (sloppily) service a 3/8" bolt with a 10mm
socket but can't service a 10mm bolt with a 3/8" socket.

On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 18:24:34 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 10/22/2015 6:10 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 17:43:34 -0400, Stormin Mormon
It's obvious that I'm failing in the nerd department.
I should know this kind of thing. Well, so, does my
Harbor Freight metric set do the SAE sizes also?
Nope. You need either a "combination" set or 2 separate sets. A
"combination" set is 2 sets in one box. Up here in Canada that is the
most cpommon socket set you can buy.


I've found that often 13 MM will do 1/2 inch. Wonder
if there are other sizes that do double duty?
14mm and 9/16 are real close. 17 mm and 11/16 (17.46mm) 11mm and
7/16 are real close. (11.11mm) 19mm is very close to 3/4 inches
(0.748 inches) 13/16 is very close to 21mm (20.63mm) - so an 11/16
will fit a 17mm, but 17mm will be tight on an 11/16. A 7/16 will work
on an 11mm, but an 11mm will be tight on a 7/16" A 19mm works fine on
a 3/4" - and a 3/4 is just a tad snug on a 19mm.

On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 18:58:59 -0400, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:


"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
On 10/22/2015 2:04 PM, wrote:

These days you need both to work on just about anything.


So true. I went to change a brake on a friend's
wheel chair. Went out and got my socket set.
Wonders, the nut needs 10 MM, and I didn't have
one in my SAE set. That started a quest to find
10 MM sockets sold separately. HF has them, in
deep, and 3/8 drive. Not much help with my 1/4
drive socket sets.


Get on down to HF as they have a set on sell for 4.99. 3/8 inch ratchet and
sockets. About the price of one good socket.


I've got a few cheap socket sets floating around - or remnants of
them. The sockets were crappy, and the ratchets were "knuckle busters"
and I even twisted off a few extensions. Some were from India, some
from China - and none cost over $15 new in a tin box.

On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 19:16:24 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 18:09:08 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 13:46:24 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 16:32:38 -0400, wrote:

You buy a "combo set". SAE and Metric. I have sockets and wrenches
in combo sets. It ticks me off American made cars require both.

Most current "american" cars are fully metric, but they use the
oddball 13mm and 11mm etc that are almost identical to SAE sises (1/2
and 11/16) as well as the unique metrics like 10 and 12

"Most"? My recent new four way lug wrench is SAE.
What is the thread on a 2002 Ford Taurus wheel stud, and what is the
size of the nut? (hint - neither one is measured in inches)
How about Chrysler/Dodge from about 1978 and up?
And Lincoln from 1988 on? They are not 3/4" AF nuts either - they are
19 mm - that's .05mm smaller than 3/4". And not 13/16, but 21mm. Just
.63mm smaller than 13/16"

They use 12mm studs.

What size is the drive on your medium metric socket set? 9.5mm?

We also see 1/4-20 threaded bolts with 10mm heads. Engineers seem to
be bi-polar.
Yes - those were used on some '80s GMs - they had a blue "oxide"
finish on them to identify themselves as "*******s"

On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 16:37:08 -0700 (PDT), bob_villa
wrote:

On Thursday, October 22, 2015 at 12:59:09 PM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Doing some vehicle work yesterday. SAE socket set
won't work, becuae 10 MM is between 3/8 and 7/16.
And 13 MM is between 1/2 and 9/16.

Suppose I buy metric socket set. Will I have the
same problem workign on English size fasteners?

Do I need to wrench sets in each vehicle?

-
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.
.

I have this interesting set, grips hex, rounded-worn hex, external torx, and spline. (got mine at Menards for $20) http://www.amazon.com/Crescent-CX6PT...ent+socket+set
I've got a set of "grip-tite sockets, but I won't use them on a
bolt-head or nut that is still recognizeable. They are "last resort"
sockets for bolts or nuts that have been chewed by some idiot with a
vice-grips.

On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 19:23:25 -0600, rbowman
wrote:

On 10/22/2015 05:25 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I was able to get a couple 10 mm sockets, and put
in with my English sets. Got tired of looking around
to find one in another tool box.

That would be you SAE sets. The British Whitworth fasteners are another
perversion.
As was the BSF. Different wrench for fine thread than for coarse.

On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 19:24:46 -0600, rbowman
wrote:

On 10/22/2015 02:36 PM, wrote:
Might be worth a road trip up to Buffalo/Niagara or up to
Kingston/thousand Islands to snag yourself a set this week. The
Mastercraft tools are VERY good value.

I doubt Stormin can get a passport...
There is that too- - - -

wrote in message
...
On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 18:58:59 -0400, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:



Get on down to HF as they have a set on sell for 4.99. 3/8 inch ratchet
and
sockets. About the price of one good socket.


I've got a few cheap socket sets floating around - or remnants of
them. The sockets were crappy, and the ratchets were "knuckle busters"
and I even twisted off a few extensions. Some were from India, some
from China - and none cost over $15 new in a tin box.


I agree the quality is not there. They are good for people that seldom use
tools, such as to put together some home items . Good to carry a set in
the car just incase you need to do a simple repair.

Run across a hard to turn nut and some part of the set may give.

I just bought a HF chain saw sharpner for $ 30, a one similar to it sells at
Northern Tool for aound $ 100 more. I may sharpen a chain twice a year and
the sharpener works fine for that. If I was doing several a week, then
probably beter to get the NT one.
..
Got the multimeter free with it. Checked it with my Fluke meter and it is
with in tollorance. Good enough for the home owner and someone that may do
some trouble shooting on equipment.
Just don't think I would want to put it across some of the equipment where I
worked that had 480 volt 3 phase and fused at 500 amps.

On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 22:41:32 -0400, wrote:


We also see 1/4-20 threaded bolts with 10mm heads. Engineers seem to
be bi-polar.
Yes - those were used on some '80s GMs - they had a blue "oxide"
finish on them to identify themselves as "*******s"

IBM spec'ed all metric stuff (screws, bolts and some tools
particularly allens) in that blue color.
I still have a bunch in my "metric" screw stash.
It avoided a lot of confusion.
You could figure out what was US made and what was imported from
vendors pretty easily.

Show me someone who thinks "english" is better than "metric" and I'll show you an uneducated imbecile.

On 10/22/2015 9:16 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 10/22/2015 04:06 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Why is it "catching up" when SAE worked fine
for 100 years or so? It's not like we had all
kind of trouble with SAE sizes. And, to boot,
we were here first. Metric is the upstart.

Metric tools have one advantage; when you're laying under the vehicle
it's easier to yell 'Get me the 20, honey', than 'Fetch me the 13/16th,
bitch.'


Get me the twelve, which is on the shelve?

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 10/22/2015 9:18 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 10/22/2015 03:56 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I see 10 MM every which where, and it doesn't
work with any of the SAE sizes. Is there a list
on the web, which sizes convert?

http://www.carolynrelei.com/inchchart.htm

Thank you. I should print that out, and put in
each tool box.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 10/22/2015 9:24 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 10/22/2015 02:36 PM, wrote:
Might be worth a road trip up to Buffalo/Niagara or up to
Kingston/thousand Islands to snag yourself a set this week. The
Mastercraft tools are VERY good value.

I doubt Stormin can get a passport...

What! Just because I've been clubbing baby seals,
lighting kittens on fire, molesting small boys,
voting tea party Republican, sniffing glue,
buying tools at Harbor Freight, inhaling helium,
setting mouse traps on my counter tops to keep
the cat off, forging documents that say I'm a
FBI agent, smuggling arms to Ambassador Chris
Stevens, mainlining Heroin, transmitting on ham
bands out of license, robbing banks at gunpoint,
writing love letters to Pope Francis, and driving
37 MPH in a 30 MPH zone, that's no reason why
I should be denied a passport!


--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 10/22/2015 10:24 PM, wrote:
You use your SAE lug wrench on your 19 and 21 MM lugs?
Yes, when necessary - but I virtually NEVER use a lug wrench. I use
my 1/2" drive 24 or 30 inch Johnson bar with my appropriately sized 6
point deep socket - usually my impact socket- to break the lugs loose,
then my nut spinner to spin them off. Then I spin them back on, and
torque them with my (about the only Snap-On tool I have) torque
wrench.

Can't remember the last time I've had to change a tire on the road -I
think it was on my 1963 Valiant back in about 1971 - with a bumper
jack and no bumper - - - -


Mine was several weeks ago. I had a tire with a
sidewall bulge. Thought it might be good for a
while longer, but was mistaken. Screw jack, and
a space saver spare. But, it did get me to the
tire place the next day.

The 25 inch breaker bar helped remove the lugnuts.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 10/22/2015 10:26 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 18:04:14 -0400, Stormin Mormon
So true. I went to change a brake on a friend's
wheel chair. Went out and got my socket set.
Wonders, the nut needs 10 MM, and I didn't have
one in my SAE set. That started a quest to find
10 MM sockets sold separately. HF has them, in
deep, and 3/8 drive. Not much help with my 1/4
drive socket sets.

Your 1/4 inch drive set is not the right set for your use. You most
certainly should have bought a 3/8" set.


Who can argue success? My quarter drive set(s) have
seen a lot of use.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 10/23/2015 7:16 AM, Jack Goff wrote:
Show me someone who thinks "english" is better than "metric" and I'll
show you an uneducated imbecile.

OK, lets see pictures.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Thursday, October 22, 2015 at 6:24:16 PM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 10/22/2015 6:10 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 22 Oct 2015 17:43:34 -0400, Stormin Mormon
It's obvious that I'm failing in the nerd department.
I should know this kind of thing. Well, so, does my
Harbor Freight metric set do the SAE sizes also?
Nope. You need either a "combination" set or 2 separate sets. A
"combination" set is 2 sets in one box. Up here in Canada that is the
most cpommon socket set you can buy.


I've found that often 13 MM will do 1/2 inch. Wonder
if there are other sizes that do double duty?

--


I told you in my post, one of the first responses, that some
sizes are close enough and cited 1 1/4" being almost identical to 32mm.
How close they have to be depends on what you're doing, how desperate
you are and how lucky you feel today. I believe someone else posted
a link to a chart, no?

On 10/23/2015 8:11 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Thursday, October 22, 2015 at 6:24:16 PM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I've found that often 13 MM will do 1/2 inch. Wonder
if there are other sizes that do double duty?

I told you in my post, one of the first responses, that some
sizes are close enough and cited 1 1/4" being almost identical to 32mm.
How close they have to be depends on what you're doing, how desperate
you are and how lucky you feel today. I believe someone else posted
a link to a chart, no?


Yes, the chart looks totally useful.

Now, wonder if a metric set will serve
as both, or are there some inch sizes
that are needed in addition?

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

Can't remember the last time I've had to change a tire on the road -I
think it was on my 1963 Valiant back in about 1971 - with a bumper
jack and no bumper - - - -


Mine was several weeks ago. I had a tire with a
sidewall bulge. Thought it might be good for a
while longer, but was mistaken. Screw jack, and
a space saver spare. But, it did get me to the
tire place the next day.

The 25 inch breaker bar helped remove the lugnuts.

Anytime I get my car back from the shop, I loosen the lug nuts and retighten them to the coorect torque with a torque wrench.

The garage will always make them too tight which makes it difficult to remove them on the road for a flat and also warps the rotors.

Mark

--
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.
.

On 10/23/2015 9:38 AM, wrote:


Can't remember the last time I've had to change a tire on the road -I
think it was on my 1963 Valiant back in about 1971 - with a bumper
jack and no bumper - - - -


Mine was several weeks ago. I had a tire with a
sidewall bulge. Thought it might be good for a
while longer, but was mistaken. Screw jack, and
a space saver spare. But, it did get me to the
tire place the next day.

The 25 inch breaker bar helped remove the lugnuts.

Anytime I get my car back from the shop, I loosen the
lug nuts and retighten them to the coorect torque with a
torque wrench.

The garage will always make them too tight [I just got
a replacement vehicle. Tempted to do that. But,I carry a
breaker bar and torque wrench, so it's not as much an
issue. besides, with aluminum wheels I'd have to recheck
torque at 25 and at 50 miles after I did the recheck. I
learned the hard way, about rechecking. With aluminum
wheels, the lugs tend to not seat correctly. It's necessary
to retorque once or twice after the install.] which makes
it difficult to remove them on the road for a flat and also
warps the rotors.

Mark

--
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.
.


Center posted, like your reply.
-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 10/23/2015 05:16 AM, Jack Goff wrote:
Show me someone who thinks "english" is better than "metric" and I'll
show you an uneducated imbecile.

The metric system, unfortunately, lasted a lot longer than the First
French Republic.

On Friday, October 23, 2015 at 9:38:19 AM UTC-4, wrote:

Can't remember the last time I've had to change a tire on the road -I
think it was on my 1963 Valiant back in about 1971 - with a bumper
jack and no bumper - - - -


Mine was several weeks ago. I had a tire with a
sidewall bulge. Thought it might be good for a
while longer, but was mistaken. Screw jack, and
a space saver spare. But, it did get me to the
tire place the next day.

The 25 inch breaker bar helped remove the lugnuts.

Anytime I get my car back from the shop, I loosen the lug nuts and retighten them to the coorect torque with a torque wrench.

The garage will always make them too tight which makes it difficult to remove them on the road for a flat and also warps the rotors.

Mark

You would think by now that all the typical places that change
tires would have torque sticks so that it wouldn't happen, but it
does.

On Friday, October 23, 2015 at 8:38:49 AM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 10/23/2015 8:11 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Thursday, October 22, 2015 at 6:24:16 PM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I've found that often 13 MM will do 1/2 inch. Wonder
if there are other sizes that do double duty?

I told you in my post, one of the first responses, that some
sizes are close enough and cited 1 1/4" being almost identical to 32mm.
How close they have to be depends on what you're doing, how desperate
you are and how lucky you feel today. I believe someone else posted
a link to a chart, no?


Yes, the chart looks totally useful.

Now, wonder if a metric set will serve
as both, or are there some inch sizes
that are needed in addition?

--


The short, simple answer is that you need both.

"trader_4" wrote in message
...
Anytime I get my car back from the shop, I loosen the lug nuts and
retighten them to the coorect torque with a torque wrench.

The garage will always make them too tight which makes it difficult to
remove them on the road for a flat and also warps the rotors.

Mark

You would think by now that all the typical places that change
tires would have torque sticks so that it wouldn't happen, but it
does.

The last tires I bought at Tire Discount does that. They rotate the tires
for free and have a big glass window where I can see what they do. It looks
like they use some torque sticks on the air guns and then hand tighten them
with a torque wrench.