I just had a number of interior doors replaced in an old house that I am
having renovated. The door replacements were done to make all of the
interior doors in the house match instead of having mismatched door styles
throughout the house. The original doors were 77" to 78" high. I had the
doors replaced with inexpensive hollow core Masonite veneer 6-panel door
slabs.

The replacement door slabs were 80 inches high, so they had to be cut. But
the cuts meant that either the top or bottom ended up as just an open hollow
space between the front and back veneers. Somehow that doesn't seem right
to me. What do contractors normally do in this situation? Do they really
just leave the top or bottom open like that? Do they try to fill in the
space with a replacement filler piece?

When I search in stores and on the Internet, I can't seem to find interior
door slabs that come in any size less than 80' high. Am I missing
something? Don't manufacturers sell hollow core doors that are 78" high so
that when they are cut a little shorter there is still a solid end piece at
the top and bottom?

Is my only other option to use solid core replacement interior doors? And,
if so, do they sell solid core interior replacement doors that are 78 inches
high?

There is at least 2 inches of solid wood at the top and bottom of the door
which can be trimmed. Try pinching the door in the store or use a stud
finder to determine the exact cutoff limits.

If it were much shorter than you would need a solid door but you should be
able to trim 2" total, 3" will be close. Look for a spec sheet for the
door, it may be there.

Cut as much as you can from the bottom then the rest from the top so it
looks good.


"nnnnnnnnn" wrote in message
. ..
I just had a number of interior doors replaced in an old house that I am
having renovated. The door replacements were done to make all of the
interior doors in the house match instead of having mismatched door styles
throughout the house. The original doors were 77" to 78" high. I had the
doors replaced with inexpensive hollow core Masonite veneer 6-panel door
slabs.

The replacement door slabs were 80 inches high, so they had to be cut.
But the cuts meant that either the top or bottom ended up as just an open
hollow space between the front and back veneers. Somehow that doesn't
seem right to me. What do contractors normally do in this situation? Do
they really just leave the top or bottom open like that? Do they try to
fill in the space with a replacement filler piece?

When I search in stores and on the Internet, I can't seem to find interior
door slabs that come in any size less than 80' high. Am I missing
something? Don't manufacturers sell hollow core doors that are 78" high
so that when they are cut a little shorter there is still a solid end
piece at the top and bottom?

Is my only other option to use solid core replacement interior doors?
And, if so, do they sell solid core interior replacement doors that are 78
inches high?

nnnnnnnnn wrote:

I just had a number of interior doors replaced in an old house that I am
having renovated. The door replacements were done to make all of the
interior doors in the house match instead of having mismatched door styles
throughout the house. The original doors were 77" to 78" high. I had the
doors replaced with inexpensive hollow core Masonite veneer 6-panel door
slabs.

The replacement door slabs were 80 inches high, so they had to be cut.
But the cuts meant that either the top or bottom ended up as just an open
hollow
space between the front and back veneers. Somehow that doesn't seem right
to me. What do contractors normally do in this situation? Do they really
just leave the top or bottom open like that? Do they try to fill in the
space with a replacement filler piece?

You use the section you cut out. Pull off the masonite veneer and the edge
and you have a straight piece you can use in that "open hollow" Glue and
finish nails to hold it in place


When I search in stores and on the Internet, I can't seem to find interior
door slabs that come in any size less than 80' high. Am I missing
something? Don't manufacturers sell hollow core doors that are 78" high
so that when they are cut a little shorter there is still a solid end
piece at the top and bottom?

Is my only other option to use solid core replacement interior doors?
And, if so, do they sell solid core interior replacement doors that are 78
inches high?

They sell really nice solid wood 6 panel pine doors you paint about 100.00
each.

--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"
Running Mandriva release 2008.0 free-i586 using KDE on i586

Years ago interior doors came in two heights, 78" and 80". I see now that
masonite.com only shows 80" as the smallest door that they make.

Someone stocking older models may have smaller sizes or another manufacturer
may make smaller sizes.

"nnnnnnnnn" wrote in message
. ..
I just had a number of interior doors replaced in an old house that I am
having renovated. The door replacements were done to make all of the
interior doors in the house match instead of having mismatched door styles
throughout the house. The original doors were 77" to 78" high. I had the
doors replaced with inexpensive hollow core Masonite veneer 6-panel door
slabs.

The replacement door slabs were 80 inches high, so they had to be cut.
But the cuts meant that either the top or bottom ended up as just an open
hollow space between the front and back veneers. Somehow that doesn't
seem right to me. What do contractors normally do in this situation? Do
they really just leave the top or bottom open like that? Do they try to
fill in the space with a replacement filler piece?

When I search in stores and on the Internet, I can't seem to find interior
door slabs that come in any size less than 80' high. Am I missing
something? Don't manufacturers sell hollow core doors that are 78" high
so that when they are cut a little shorter there is still a solid end
piece at the top and bottom?

Is my only other option to use solid core replacement interior doors?
And, if so, do they sell solid core interior replacement doors that are 78
inches high?

pipedown wrote:

There is at least 2 inches of solid wood at the top and bottom of the door
which can be trimmed. Try pinching the door in the store or use a stud
finder to determine the exact cutoff limits.

If it were much shorter than you would need a solid door but you should be
able to trim 2" total, 3" will be close. Look for a spec sheet for the
door, it may be there.

Cut as much as you can from the bottom then the rest from the top so it
looks good.


Dude you never cut the top of a door. NEVER! If you cut the solid piece out
of the bottom you reuse it in the hollow area. 2-3 inches off the bottom of
door is not that big a deal. Your largest panels are at the bottom. as you
go up they get smaller, including the stiles.

--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"
Running Mandriva release 2008.0 free-i586 using KDE on i586

nnnnnnnnn wrote:
I just had a number of interior doors replaced in an old house that I am
having renovated. The door replacements were done to make all of the
interior doors in the house match instead of having mismatched door
styles throughout the house. The original doors were 77" to 78" high.
I had the doors replaced with inexpensive hollow core Masonite veneer
6-panel door slabs.

The replacement door slabs were 80 inches high, so they had to be cut.
But the cuts meant that either the top or bottom ended up as just an
open hollow space between the front and back veneers. Somehow that
doesn't seem right to me. What do contractors normally do in this
situation? Do they really just leave the top or bottom open like that?
Do they try to fill in the space with a replacement filler piece?

When I search in stores and on the Internet, I can't seem to find
interior door slabs that come in any size less than 80' high. Am I
missing something? Don't manufacturers sell hollow core doors that are
78" high so that when they are cut a little shorter there is still a
solid end piece at the top and bottom?

Is my only other option to use solid core replacement interior doors?
And, if so, do they sell solid core interior replacement doors that are
78 inches high?

Yes, you can piece in the filler strip, but it is a pain in the ass. You
may need to cut from the top and bottom of the blank, to avoid trimming
away the entire strip on one end. Your contractor is an idiot, or lazy.
I wouldn't accept the work.

--
aem sends...

nnnnnnnnn wrote:


The replacement door slabs were 80 inches high, so they had to be cut.
But the cuts meant that either the top or bottom ended up as just an open
hollow
space between the front and back veneers.

Keyword here is THEY, who is they? Contractors, Handyman, Illegal Alien
hourly worker. Did you pay them yet? If you did you got screwed.

Somehow that doesn't seem right
to me. What do contractors normally do in this situation? Do they really
just leave the top or bottom open like that? Do they try to fill in the
space with a replacement filler piece?

See my solution in prior post
--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"
Running Mandriva release 2008.0 free-i586 using KDE on i586

On May 19, 10:03 pm, "nnnnnnnnn" wrote:
I just had a number of interior doors replaced in an old house that I am
having renovated. The door replacements were done to make all of the
interior doors in the house match instead of having mismatched door styles
throughout the house. The original doors were 77" to 78" high. I had the
doors replaced with inexpensive hollow core Masonite veneer 6-panel door
slabs.

The replacement door slabs were 80 inches high, so they had to be cut. But
the cuts meant that either the top or bottom ended up as just an open hollow
space between the front and back veneers. Somehow that doesn't seem right
to me. What do contractors normally do in this situation? Do they really
just leave the top or bottom open like that? Do they try to fill in the
space with a replacement filler piece?

When I search in stores and on the Internet, I can't seem to find interior
door slabs that come in any size less than 80' high. Am I missing
something? Don't manufacturers sell hollow core doors that are 78" high so
that when they are cut a little shorter there is still a solid end piece at
the top and bottom?

Is my only other option to use solid core replacement interior doors? And,
if so, do they sell solid core interior replacement doors that are 78 inches
high?

What I prefer in that situation is to buy prehung doors, and sawzall
the opening, fix the
drywall, and then it takes a standard door. there is usually enough
meat in the header to
do that without compromising the structure, when not, you can build a
new header inside the wall.
It is a bit more work, but the results are worth it, and if a new door
is needed in the future it will fit.

"pipedown" wrote in message
. ..
There is at least 2 inches of solid wood at the top and bottom of the door
which can be trimmed. . . . . ,

I'll check again and post back here tonight or tomorrow, but I don't think
that's correct. I saved the pieces that were cut off and I think the solid
part at the top and bottom is much less than 2 inches.

"evodawg" wrote in message
news:dArYj.728$ah.406@trnddc06...

You use the section you cut out. Pull off the masonite veneer and the edge
and you have a straight piece you can use in that "open hollow" Glue and
finish nails to hold it in place.

Thanks. I was thinking that may be what they do. I saved the cutoff pieces
in case that is the way to do it. I haven't tried separating the masonite
from the wood filler strips, but hopefully thta won't be too hard to do.

"evodawg" wrote in message
news:wYrYj.731$ah.444@trnddc06...

Keyword here is THEY, who is they? Contractors, Handyman, Illegal Alien
hourly worker. Did you pay them yet? If you did you got screwed.

Well, supposedly they are genuine bona fide real-life contractors with
experience in the field. They have all of the right tools and equipment and
the impression I got is that they know what they are doing. I decided to
start them out on a couple of basic things first to see how they work, etc.
Now I am finding that I have doubts about their true skill level, but I
thought I'd check here to see what is considered normal and what isn't.

"Eric in North TX" wrote in message
...

What I prefer in that situation is to buy prehung doors, and sawzall
the opening, fix the
drywall, and then it takes a standard door. . . .

I did think about that option, but it's an old house with and older style
trim throughout. If I used pre-hung doors, it would mean changing the trim
on both sides for more than a dozen doors. So, I thought that just
replacing the slabs would make the most sense.

When looking at the job, they measured each door and I just assumed that
contractors could buy hollow core interior doors in various sizes, including
78-inch high doors. Then each door would only require minimal cutting to
fit the opening.

To my surprise, it appears that no one sells new 78-inch hollow core 6-panel
interior doors. It also appears that no one sells hollow core interior
doors with pre-cut door hardware openings.

Ummm.... 78" high is a standard door height. Just one that they don't
stock it in the stores. You have to order it. It's more expensive
than an 80" door, but not by a whole lot. In my opinion, better than
hacking more than the manufacturer's recommended amount from an 80"
door. Most people are too stuipd or lazy to do it the right way and
actually order a door that's the right size.

On May 19, 11:35*pm, evodawg wrote:
pipedown wrote:
There is at least 2 inches of solid wood at the top and bottom of the door
which can be trimmed. *Try pinching the door in the store or use a stud
finder to determine the exact cutoff limits.

If it were much shorter than you would need a solid door but you should be
able to trim 2" total, 3" will be close. *Look for a spec sheet for the
door, it may be there.

Cut as much as you can from the bottom then the rest from the top so it
looks good.

Dude you never cut the top of a door. NEVER! If you cut the solid piece out
of the bottom you reuse it in the hollow area. 2-3 inches off the bottom of
door is not that big a deal. Your largest panels are at the bottom. as you
go up they get smaller, including the stiles.

--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"
Running Mandriva release 2008.0 free-i586 using KDE on i586

Dude you never cut the top of a door. NEVER!

Never? And in all caps? That's a pretty drastic statement.

Consider a 6 panel pine door that needs 5 - 6" cut off. True
situation - basement bathroom remodel in a house with a really low
basement ceiling.

If I cut everything off the bottom, it would have look really out of
balance and the door knob would have been down around my knees.
Instead I determined the proportional differences of the top and
bottom rails and divided my cuts proportionally. Came out great.

So, where can I order 78-inch 6-panel hollow core interior doors?

I have checked everywhere I can think of on the Internet and can't find
anyplace that sells them.

Thanks.

"zzyzzx" wrote in message
...
Ummm.... 78" high is a standard door height. Just one that they don't
stock it in the stores. You have to order it. It's more expensive
than an 80" door, but not by a whole lot. In my opinion, better than
hacking more than the manufacturer's recommended amount from an 80"
door. Most people are too stuipd or lazy to do it the right way and
actually order a door that's the right size.

"pipedown" wrote in message
. ..
There is at least 2 inches of solid wood at the top and bottom of the door
which can be trimmed. Try pinching the door in the store or use a stud
finder to determine the exact cutoff limits.

I just went and checked the new 80-inch hollow core doors. There is a
1-inch solid core across the top and a 3/4-inch solid core across the
bottom. That's it. I was surprised myself.

"nnnnnnnnn" wrote in message
...
So, where can I order 78-inch 6-panel hollow core interior doors?

I have checked everywhere I can think of on the Internet and can't find
anyplace that sells them.

Thanks.

"zzyzzx" wrote in message
...
Ummm.... 78" high is a standard door height. Just one that they don't
stock it in the stores. You have to order it. It's more expensive
than an 80" door, but not by a whole lot. In my opinion, better than
hacking more than the manufacturer's recommended amount from an 80"
door. Most people are too stuipd or lazy to do it the right way and
actually order a door that's the right size.

try the custom desk at a big box, or at a real lumberyard. you can also look
up doors in the yellow pages. when i was building my house, i found a small
shop that just builds doors for custom houses, that was the same cost as
buying all the doors at a big box.

ddb had written this in response to
http://www.thestuccocompany.com/main...es-307769-.htm
:
OK...Let's make this simple. Having just cut down about 15 of these very
same doors (six panel hollow-core), from 80" cut down to as small as 76",
let me say this:

1) Any so-called contractor leaving open ends on a door is not a real
contractor. Don't pay them. Don't hire them. Don't let them on your
property.

2) If you're cutting the door down by 3/4 or less, you can cut the bottom.
Don't cut the top.

3) Contractors habitually don't cut the top because (a) if you've got a
pre-hung, you'll leave a gap, or (b) if it's a replacement slab (you're
just replacing an existing door and keeping the old jamb and stop) with no
hinge or handle cut outs, they'll measure top-down to get hinge placement
on the door vs. the ones they'll route or chisel out on your new door.
However, this isn't a hard-and-fast rule (see #4 below).

4) If you've got to cut down more than say 2 or 3 inches, and you feel
that the 'balance' between the door panels is too wacky from top to
bottom, you CAN cut the top and bottom. However, you're going to have to
chisel out a new hinge placement to ensure you don't leave a gap a the top
of the door. In the case where you're replacing existing doors, buy a
'slab' door with no hinges and handle cut outs, and buy an inexpensive
Irwin doorhandle/hinge install kit at Home Depot and a good, sharp, 1"
chisel. It worked perfect for me.

To cut down a hollow door more than 3/4" and make it right, this is what I
did:

* Measured the offset *carefully* on my circular saw to the outside of the
blade, in my case, 1 12/32".
* Clamped a straight-edge to the top or bottom of the door that I wanted
to cut. This was measured off at Offset + the amount I want to shorten the
door by.
* Cut the door with the circular saw. I ended up with a cut end with the
entire solid plug sandwiched between the veneers of the door.
* Used table saw to line up the plug to trim *just* the veneer off. Worked
awesome every time. I set it so I could literally peel the last bit of
veneer off about the thickness of a piece of paper, so I knew the plug was
perfect.
* Spread wood glue on inside of door where plug will go. Wipe with finger
to get even coat. Do the same on the door plug. Insert. Clamp for 30
minutes.

Done. I've done both bi-folds and interior doors with this method, and it
works awesome. I have a 1962 basement+main with original doors at 78",
plus a new basement reno that is 80" standard with a lower ceiling in my
laundry taking it down to 76".

PS: If you need to cut the door lengthways to trim it, use a table saw and
get a friend to help you handle it through. Don't use the circular saw
method for that ... too slow, and if it's not perfect, you'll notice the
tiniest imperfections lengthways, whereas at the top and bottom, you don't
notice any small stuff at all (like saw blade marks).

Your 'contractor' is an incompetent buffoon. Sorry...I've had one of those
too...who hasn't?

-------------------------------------
nnnnnnnnn wrote:


I just had a number of interior doors replaced in an old house that I am

having renovated. The door replacements were done to make all of the
interior doors in the house match instead of having mismatched door
styles
throughout the house. The original doors were 77" to 78"
high. I had the
doors replaced with inexpensive hollow core Masonite veneer 6-panel
door
slabs.

The replacement door slabs were 80 inches high, so they had to be cut.
But
the cuts meant that either the top or bottom ended up as just an open
hollow
space between the front and back veneers. Somehow that doesn't seem
right
to me. What do contractors normally do in this situation? Do they
really
just leave the top or bottom open like that? Do they try to fill in
the
space with a replacement filler piece?

When I search in stores and on the Internet, I can't seem to find
interior
door slabs that come in any size less than 80' high. Am I missing
something? Don't manufacturers sell hollow core doors that are
78" high so
that when they are cut a little shorter there is still a solid end
piece at
the top and bottom?

Is my only other option to use solid core replacement interior doors?
And,
if so, do they sell solid core interior replacement doors that are 78
inches
high?






##-----------------------------------------------##
Delivered via http://www.thestuccocompany.com/
Building Construction and Maintenance Forum
Web and RSS access to your favorite newsgroup -
alt.home.repair - 345202 messages and counting!
##-----------------------------------------------##

"nnnnnnnnn" wrote in
:

I just had a number of interior doors replaced in an old house that I
am having renovated. The door replacements were done to make all of
the interior doors in the house match instead of having mismatched
door styles throughout the house. The original doors were 77" to 78"
high. I had the doors replaced with inexpensive hollow core Masonite
veneer 6-panel door slabs.

The replacement door slabs were 80 inches high, so they had to be cut.
But the cuts meant that either the top or bottom ended up as just an
open hollow space between the front and back veneers. Somehow that
doesn't seem right to me. What do contractors normally do in this
situation? Do they really just leave the top or bottom open like
that? Do they try to fill in the space with a replacement filler
piece?

When I search in stores and on the Internet, I can't seem to find
interior door slabs that come in any size less than 80' high. Am I
missing something? Don't manufacturers sell hollow core doors that
are 78" high so that when they are cut a little shorter there is still
a solid end piece at the top and bottom?

Is my only other option to use solid core replacement interior doors?
And, if so, do they sell solid core interior replacement doors that
are 78 inches high?


As Dennis said,

1) Any so-called contractor leaving open ends on a door
is not a real contractor

I am not a real contractor either but I sure wouldn't do that. If the
door looked OK after the cut and hung I would have taken the paneling off
the cutoff piece which would leave the wood "filler" piece, put some glue
on it, slide it back up in the opening and clamp for a few hours. Heck,
might even get away with not clamping and just put some brads in to hold
it till dry. Probably never see them. Especially if they get painted.

Too bad you don't have the cutoffs???

replying to charlie, CHW3 wrote:
charlie.spitzer wrote:

"nnnnnnnnn" wrote in message
...
try the custom desk at a big box, or at a real lumberyard. you can also
look
up doors in the yellow pages. when i was building my house, i found a
small
shop that just builds doors for custom houses, that was the same cost as
buying all the doors at a big box.


I appreciate everybody's responses, yet no one has answered the question,
"where can I get a non standard sized door?" SOMEBODY makes them, because
builders continue to install them. The door I am trying to replace is 23
5/8 inches wide, but yet is a standard height. It's a 6 panel hollow core
interior closet door. It came with the house - do I need to go back to
the builder and get a door from them?

--

CHW3 wrote:
replying to charlie, CHW3 wrote:
charlie.spitzer wrote:

"nnnnnnnnn" wrote in message
...
try the custom desk at a big box, or at a real lumberyard. you can
also look up doors in the yellow pages. when i was building my
house, i found a small shop that just builds doors for custom
houses, that was the same cost as buying all the doors at a big box.


I appreciate everybody's responses, yet no one has answered the
question, "where can I get a non standard sized door?" SOMEBODY
makes them, because builders continue to install them. The door I am
trying to replace is 23 5/8 inches wide, but yet is a standard
height. It's a 6 panel hollow core interior closet door. It came
with the house - do I need to go back to the builder and get a door
from them?

No , you need to cut 3/16" off each side of a standard 24" door . I prefer
a table saw for this , and don't forget to angle the latch side 5° .

--
Snag

replying to Terry Coombs , CHW3 wrote:
snag_one wrote:

No , you need to cut 3/16" off each side of a standard 24" door . I
prefer

a table saw for this , and don't forget to angle the latch side 5? .
--
Snag


Thanks Snag one, appreciate it, but let me ask this - are builders cutting
these doors down from 24 inches wide, to something less (in my case 23 5/8
inches)? My guess is no they are not. I am really not trying to be
difficult - but its ridiculous that a builder can get a door that size but
no one else can. Are they buying in bulk from a manufacturer and
specifying a non standard size just to be difficult? Guess I'll go back to
my builder and find out where he gets his doors in bulk. I'm sure he
wouldn't have a problem selling one to me. Stupid to have to put a
hundred dollars of effort into a 30 dollar door. If I have to do that, I
may as well just give him the hundred bucks.

--

CHW3 wrote:
replying to Terry Coombs , CHW3 wrote:
snag_one wrote:

No , you need to cut 3/16" off each side of a standard 24" door .
I prefer

a table saw for this , and don't forget to angle the latch side 5? .
--
Snag


Thanks Snag one, appreciate it, but let me ask this - are builders
cutting these doors down from 24 inches wide, to something less (in
my case 23 5/8 inches)? My guess is no they are not. I am really
not trying to be difficult - but its ridiculous that a builder can
get a door that size but no one else can. Are they buying in bulk
from a manufacturer and specifying a non standard size just to be
difficult? Guess I'll go back to my builder and find out where he
gets his doors in bulk. I'm sure he wouldn't have a problem selling
one to me. Stupid to have to put a hundred dollars of effort into a
30 dollar door. If I have to do that, I may as well just give him the
hundred bucks.

It's not the builder . I'm just guessing , but I'd bet he bought the doors
as pre hung units .
--
Snag

CHW3 wrote:
replying to Terry Coombs , CHW3 wrote:
snag_one wrote:

No , you need to cut 3/16" off each side of a standard 24" door .
I prefer

a table saw for this , and don't forget to angle the latch side 5? .
--
Snag


Thanks Snag one, appreciate it, but let me ask this - are builders
cutting these doors down from 24 inches wide, to something less (in
my case 23 5/8 inches)? My guess is no they are not.

You are 100% correct. That would be incredibly stupid...unless he had to do
so to make a standard door fit because somebody had screwed up the rough
opening size.

| Thanks Snag one, appreciate it, but let me ask this - are builders cutting
| these doors down from 24 inches wide, to something less (in my case 23 5/8
| inches)? My guess is no they are not.


I'm afraid your guess is wrong. It's just as Terry
Coombs said. Doors typically come in sizes at every
two inches. Even hollow core doors can be trimmed
a bit for height and width. They generally have
wood around the outside. A door replacing an existing
door often has to be trimmed, especially in old houses
where one side of the door frame can be 1/2" higher
than the other side.

The typical way to get doors is by ordering through
a local lumber yard for items in the Brosco catalogue,
which is a supplier that will deliver stock items to lumber
yards within 2-3 days. (Home Depot actually has
better selection at better prices, but it takes *weeks*
to get anything through them.)
If you can find a Brosco catalogue you can see the
way doors are typically sold. The options depend on
the door, but the typical option is 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34,
or 36" wide and 78 or 80" high.

You don't need a table saw to make a good cut. Just
clamp a straight edge onto the door as a guide and you
can cut it with a circular saw.

What you have, hollow core 6-panel, is almost certainly
masonite (junk, but they look pretty good... until someone
kicks a hole through them) that came pre-hung. If it's
23 3/4" that's probably a 24" door, but you're not likely to
find the exact same thing sitting around a lumber yard or
in a Brosco catalogue. Your options are to buy a stock
24" wood panel door or find a place to order a masonite
panel door. In either case, expect to do some trimming
to fit, and unless you find exactly the same brand you
may have to settle for slightly different panels. (Wood,
for instance, will probably have more relief than the
masonite version.) If you can find the brand and exact model
you might be able to order a 24" replacement at Home Depot.
You may or may not be able to get just the "slab". (Not
prehung.)

On 7/8/2015 6:12 AM, dadiOH wrote:
CHW3 wrote:
replying to Terry Coombs , CHW3 wrote:
snag_one wrote:

No , you need to cut 3/16" off each side of a standard 24" door .
I prefer

a table saw for this , and don't forget to angle the latch side 5? .
--
Snag


Thanks Snag one, appreciate it, but let me ask this - are builders
cutting these doors down from 24 inches wide, to something less (in
my case 23 5/8 inches)? My guess is no they are not.

You are 100% correct. That would be incredibly stupid...unless he had to do
so to make a standard door fit because somebody had screwed up the rough
opening size.


+1

Take a look at any door manufacturer's site, Jeld-Wen, for instance.
All of their doors come in widths sized in an even 1" increment. You
won't find a 23 5/8" or 28 ½" in the lot.

Somebody screwed up the rough opening and accommodations had to be made.

How many doors this size are in your home? That could be a clue as well.

On Wednesday, July 8, 2015 at 6:08:06 AM UTC-5, Terry Coombs wrote:
CHW3 wrote:
replying to Terry Coombs , CHW3 wrote:
snag_one wrote:

No , you need to cut 3/16" off each side of a standard 24" door .
I prefer

a table saw for this , and don't forget to angle the latch side 5? .
--
Snag


Thanks Snag one, appreciate it, but let me ask this - are builders
cutting these doors down from 24 inches wide, to something less (in
my case 23 5/8 inches)? My guess is no they are not. I am really
not trying to be difficult - but its ridiculous that a builder can
get a door that size but no one else can. Are they buying in bulk
from a manufacturer and specifying a non standard size just to be
difficult? Guess I'll go back to my builder and find out where he
gets his doors in bulk. I'm sure he wouldn't have a problem selling
one to me. Stupid to have to put a hundred dollars of effort into a
30 dollar door. If I have to do that, I may as well just give him the
hundred bucks.

It's not the builder . I'm just guessing , but I'd bet he bought the doors
as pre hung units .
--
Snag

When I was born, the nurses gasped, pointed at me and called me a pre-hung unit. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Swinging Monster

On 07/07/2015 09:44 PM, CHW3 wrote:

try the custom desk at a big box, or at a real lumberyard. you can also
look
up doors in the yellow pages. when i was building my house, i found a
small
shop that just builds doors for custom houses, that was the same cost
as buying all the doors at a big box.


I appreciate everybody's responses, yet no one has answered the question,
"where can I get a non standard sized door?" SOMEBODY makes them, because
builders continue to install them. The door I am trying to replace is 23
5/8 inches wide, but yet is a standard height. It's a 6 panel hollow core
interior closet door. It came with the house - do I need to go back to
the builder and get a door from them?

23 5/8 inches is almost exactly 60cm. Is it possible that that is a
standard metric-sized door? I understand that some parts of the USA
started moving toward the metric system, but then the whole thing
fizzled out. (My wife was trained to teach metric conversion. Her late
mother said that if she could get used to the crazy US system when she
was in her 40s, all Americans could get used to it if they learned it as
children.)

Perce

| 23 5/8 inches is almost exactly 60cm. Is it possible that that is a
| standard metric-sized door?

Not likely. I've never seen such a thing. (Nor do
we have $2.50 nails to replace 6 penny nails. The
system has been in place for a long time and would
take a lot of trouble to convert.)

| I understand that some parts of the USA
| started moving toward the metric system, but then the whole thing
| fizzled out. (My wife was trained to teach metric conversion. Her late
| mother said that if she could get used to the crazy US system when she
| was in her 40s, all Americans could get used to it if they learned it as
| children.)
|

I've never understood why we *need* to convert,
but it has become a problem with imported cars,
hardware, etc. European hinges in the US often come
with directions only in metric. Two sets of tools or
bits are often needed. There's something absurd about
getting directions in 3 languages but without native
measuring standards.

Awhile back I accidentally bought a dual tape measure.
I had to throw it away. One edge of the tape had metric,
so I could only measure using the other edge. That
doesn't seem like a big deal, but it turned out that it was.

I actually keep a VBScript on my desk to convert
between F and C, so I know what those wacky Brits
are talking about when they claim to be having a
"brutal heat wave". Despite seeing C temps for
years, I still have a hard time getting used to it.
It's not enough to merely know how to convert. One
needs to get used to it.

On Wed, 08 Jul 2015 01:44:01 +0000, CHW3
wrote:

I appreciate everybody's responses, yet no one has answered the question,
"where can I get a non standard sized door?"

Let me break the news. Visit the door shop that can build what you
want. I've done it for one nonstandard door. Give the shop the RO
numbers, if you want the size done in a pre-hung.

How old is the thread? I know stuff.

On Wed, 8 Jul 2015 07:12:10 -0400, "dadiOH"
wrote:

the rough
opening size.

I did that. Door shop built what I needed and wanted.

On Wed, 08 Jul 2015 03:44:01 +0000, CHW3
wrote:

replying to Terry Coombs , CHW3 wrote:
snag_one wrote:

No , you need to cut 3/16" off each side of a standard 24" door . I
prefer

a table saw for this , and don't forget to angle the latch side 5? .
--
Snag


Thanks Snag one, appreciate it, but let me ask this - are builders cutting
these doors down from 24 inches wide, to something less (in my case 23 5/8
inches)? My guess is no they are not. I am really not trying to be
difficult - but its ridiculous that a builder can get a door that size but
no one else can. Are they buying in bulk from a manufacturer and
specifying a non standard size just to be difficult? Guess I'll go back to
my builder and find out where he gets his doors in bulk. I'm sure he
wouldn't have a problem selling one to me. Stupid to have to put a
hundred dollars of effort into a 30 dollar door. If I have to do that, I
may as well just give him the hundred bucks.
Having worked in the window and door business in the past, yes,
builders are cutting down standard doors to make them fit, Custom
doors are MUCH more expensive (and in most cases, it is still just the
standard door cut down - but cut at the factory instead of on-site)
This is particularly true of the "styled" doors - the ones that look
like raised panel doors. They don't make non-standard dies to press
non-standard panel sizes - they just cut down the styles

On Wed, 8 Jul 2015 06:08:04 -0500, "Terry Coombs"
wrote:

CHW3 wrote:
replying to Terry Coombs , CHW3 wrote:
snag_one wrote:

No , you need to cut 3/16" off each side of a standard 24" door .
I prefer

a table saw for this , and don't forget to angle the latch side 5? .
--
Snag


Thanks Snag one, appreciate it, but let me ask this - are builders
cutting these doors down from 24 inches wide, to something less (in
my case 23 5/8 inches)? My guess is no they are not. I am really
not trying to be difficult - but its ridiculous that a builder can
get a door that size but no one else can. Are they buying in bulk
from a manufacturer and specifying a non standard size just to be
difficult? Guess I'll go back to my builder and find out where he
gets his doors in bulk. I'm sure he wouldn't have a problem selling
one to me. Stupid to have to put a hundred dollars of effort into a
30 dollar door. If I have to do that, I may as well just give him the
hundred bucks.

It's not the builder . I'm just guessing , but I'd bet he bought the doors
as pre hung units .
Generally "non standard" sizes are used where something happened in
the planning that precluded the use of a "standard" door. I've seen
"prehung" doors modified, as well as "slab only" doors being modified
to fit into modified "jam kits"

replying to clare , CHW3 wrote:
clare wrote:

On Wed, 08 Jul 2015 03:44:01 +0000, CHW3
Having worked in the window and door business in the past, yes,
builders are cutting down standard doors to make them fit, Custom
doors are MUCH more expensive (and in most cases, it is still just the
standard door cut down - but cut at the factory instead of on-site)
This is particularly true of the "styled" doors - the ones that look
like raised panel doors. They don't make non-standard dies to press
non-standard panel sizes - they just cut down the styles


I hope everybody who has replied to my query can read this, because I
sincerely appreciate everyones input, thoughts, etc. You have all,
collectively shed much light on this isdue and as a result I, and everyone
else is much better for it. I have a much better understanding of the
workings of this faction of the home building industry. I have acuired a
24 in wide door and am cutting it down. The thing that bugs me the most
is that we purchased the house new, from a very reputable builder in
Maryland who has a long and distinguished history. The house is solid.
Couldnt figure the door issue, but it appears as though its just one of
those inditry quirks, and a stick built house I guess can exacerbate these
things. You guys rock! Thanks so much! :-)

--

| I have acuired a
| 24 in wide door and am cutting it down.

One last thought: Check the fit after cutting the
width and before hinging it, to make sure you don't
also need to cut the top at an angle. In a new house
that shouldn't be necessary, but frames can get
out of square.

On Wed, 08 Jul 2015 20:59:24 -0400, wrote:

Generally "non standard" sizes are used where something happened in
the planning that precluded the use of a "standard" door.

Happened in a rental property of ours. I went to replace a damaged
door from a renter, took it out, looked for a pre hung - then found
out it was none standard. A local door factory built me one in their
shop.

I don't recall there being any added expense.

replying to Mayayana , CHW3 wrote:
mayayana wrote:

| I have acuired a
| 24 in wide door and am cutting it down.
One last thought: Check the fit after cutting the
width and before hinging it, to make sure you don't
also need to cut the top at an angle. In a new house
that shouldn't be necessary, but frames can get
out of square.


Gotcha! Thanks! :-)


--

Uncle Monster posted for all of us...



On Wednesday, July 8, 2015 at 6:08:06 AM UTC-5, Terry Coombs wrote:
CHW3 wrote:
replying to Terry Coombs , CHW3 wrote:
snag_one wrote:

No , you need to cut 3/16" off each side of a standard 24" door .
I prefer

a table saw for this , and don't forget to angle the latch side 5? .
--
Snag


Thanks Snag one, appreciate it, but let me ask this - are builders
cutting these doors down from 24 inches wide, to something less (in
my case 23 5/8 inches)? My guess is no they are not. I am really
not trying to be difficult - but its ridiculous that a builder can
get a door that size but no one else can. Are they buying in bulk
from a manufacturer and specifying a non standard size just to be
difficult? Guess I'll go back to my builder and find out where he
gets his doors in bulk. I'm sure he wouldn't have a problem selling
one to me. Stupid to have to put a hundred dollars of effort into a
30 dollar door. If I have to do that, I may as well just give him the
hundred bucks.

It's not the builder . I'm just guessing , but I'd bet he bought the doors
as pre hung units .
--
Snag

When I was born, the nurses gasped, pointed at me and called me a pre-hung unit. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Swinging Monster

So they hung you up and let you dry.

--
Tekkie *Please post a follow-up*

Oren posted for all of us...



On Wed, 8 Jul 2015 07:12:10 -0400, "dadiOH"
wrote:

the rough
opening size.

I did that. Door shop built what I needed and wanted.

Also doing this the backset and hinges will be right.

--
Tekkie *Please post a follow-up*

On Friday, July 10, 2015 at 3:35:29 PM UTC-5, Tekkie® wrote:
Uncle Monster posted for all of us...



On Wednesday, July 8, 2015 at 6:08:06 AM UTC-5, Terry Coombs wrote:
CHW3 wrote:
replying to Terry Coombs , CHW3 wrote:
snag_one wrote:

No , you need to cut 3/16" off each side of a standard 24" door ..
I prefer

a table saw for this , and don't forget to angle the latch side 5?