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#1
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Resawing on the band saw
I have a Grizzly G0555 band saw. I bought the tall resaw fence and have
tried a few different blades including the 1/2" Woodslicer blade. I'm currently using a 3/8" wet-wood blade for resawing logs. I installed new polyurethane tires, got the saw as coplaner as possible, and have readjusted the guides many times. Anyway, I have just about given up trying to resaw with a parallel fence. No matter how many times I adjust the fence for drift the piece binds or the blade bows in the cut. I can get it working fine once, but the next time I use it the fence doesn't match the drift angle. I have tried different blade tensions, from the mark on the saw indicator, to looser, to much tighter. I haven't seen that it makes much difference. I can resaw "relatively" straight by just drawing a line and following it freehand. Are there any advantages to using a pivot fence instead of just cutting freehand? Of course, I can't really draw a line on a log to resaw it freehand. I kind of need the fence for that. Is it just the saw? Thanks, Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com |
#2
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Resawing on the band saw
On Tue, 5 May 2015 14:40:57 +0000 (UTC)
HerHusband wrote: I have a Grizzly G0555 band saw. I bought the tall resaw fence and have tried a few different blades including the 1/2" Woodslicer blade. I'm currently using a 3/8" wet-wood blade for resawing logs. how long you had it i would check the basic assembly of the saw to make sure it was done with the right amount of TLC just like buying any low priced chinese equpiments you have to check it all out fo ryour self |
#3
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Resawing on the band saw
"HerHusband" wrote in message
... I have a Grizzly G0555 band saw. I bought the tall resaw fence and have Anyway, I have just about given up trying to resaw with a parallel fence. No matter how many times I adjust the fence for drift the piece binds or the blade bows in the cut. I can get it working fine once, but the next time I use it the fence doesn't match the drift angle. It could be the saw but I'd try a couple things first.... One, for sawing small logs I found that a sled generally works better. I use a piece of sacrificial plywood, screw the log to the plywood, and run the plywood up against the saw's fence. I seem to have a knack for setting up the blade such that blade drift is almost never an issue. However, with some blades the teeth don't seem to be set correctly/evenly and in those cases I do make allowances in setting up the fence for the drift. For re-sawing boards, I made up what amounts to a post fence out of wood. A plywood base with a T shaped board that serves as the fence. The bottom of the T is rounded off a bit and the top of the T serves to keep the fence vertical. The plywood base is clamped to the saw table in use and the board to be re-sawn rides against the bottom of the T. If the blade is bowing despite the tension setting that suggests that the feed rate is too fast for the saw and blade. With some boards I've had to feed at a painfully slow rate on my 18" Jet... This is where big, rigid saws with big motors and wide blades having high beam strength and low tooth counts shine... Towards that end I've got a slow going project to expand my lumber shed and set up the 36" Crescent saw with a 5 HP Baldor motor that I've had in storage... Then again, I know so many guys with bandsaw mills that I may never finish the project! |
#4
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Resawing on the band saw
On Tue, 05 May 2015 11:50:24 -0400, John Grossbohlin wrote:
If the blade is bowing despite the tension setting that suggests that the feed rate is too fast for the saw and blade. With some boards I've had to feed at a painfully slow rate on my 18" Jet... You're probably right. It took me a long time to learn to slow down on my 14" saw :-). |
#5
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Resawing on the band saw
I have a Grizzly G0555 band saw. I bought the tall resaw fence and
have tried a few different blades including the 1/2" Woodslicer blade. I'm currently using a 3/8" wet-wood blade for resawing logs. how long you had it i would check the basic assembly of the saw to make sure it was done with the right amount of TLC I bought it about 7 years ago. I have checked and double-checked everything I can think of. I even took everything apart a couple times to make sure it was put together correctly. Unfortunately, I have had ongoing issues with the saw since I bought it. This is the only bandsaw I have ever used, so I figured I just wasn't setting it up right. I have researched and readjusted numerous times and still have problems. It doesn't seem like it should be this difficult. That said, I have resawn a lot of wood and have just learned to cut it fairly oversize and spend more time with a planer. Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com |
#6
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Resawing on the band saw
John,
One, for sawing small logs I found that a sled generally works better. I use a piece of sacrificial plywood, screw the log to the plywood, and run the plywood up against the saw's fence. Yep, that's basically the technique I have used too. But I run into problems if the fence doesn't match the blade drift. If the blade is bowing despite the tension setting that suggests that the feed rate is too fast for the saw and blade. Perhaps, but I do have bowing issues when cutting freehand. I only encounter the bowing when using the fence. The saw isn't slowing or bogging down while cutting, at least until the bow gets too severe binding the blade in the workpiece. Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com |
#7
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Resawing on the band saw
On 05/05/2015 07:40 AM, HerHusband wrote:
I have a Grizzly G0555 band saw. I bought the tall resaw fence and have tried a few different blades including the 1/2" Woodslicer blade. I'm currently using a 3/8" wet-wood blade for resawing logs. I installed new polyurethane tires, got the saw as coplaner as possible, and have readjusted the guides many times. Anyway, I have just about given up trying to resaw with a parallel fence. No matter how many times I adjust the fence for drift the piece binds or the blade bows in the cut. I can get it working fine once, but the next time I use it the fence doesn't match the drift angle. I have tried different blade tensions, from the mark on the saw indicator, to looser, to much tighter. I haven't seen that it makes much difference. I can resaw "relatively" straight by just drawing a line and following it freehand. Are there any advantages to using a pivot fence instead of just cutting freehand? Of course, I can't really draw a line on a log to resaw it freehand. I kind of need the fence for that. Is it just the saw? Thanks, Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com I have the same saw with a 6" riser and the griz resaw fence. I use the 1/2" woodslicer blade and have no issues resawing. I had to spend some time getting the tension set up when I add the riser, but other than that, I'm a happy camper. I do make sure the blade tracks in the center of the tires. -- "Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery" -Winston Churchill |
#8
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Resawing on the band saw
HerHusband wrote:
I have a Grizzly G0555 band saw. I bought the tall resaw fence and have tried a few different blades including the 1/2" Woodslicer blade. I'm currently using a 3/8" wet-wood blade for resawing logs. I installed new polyurethane tires, got the saw as coplaner as possible, and have readjusted the guides many times. Anyway, I have just about given up trying to resaw with a parallel fence. No matter how many times I adjust the fence for drift the piece binds or the blade bows in the cut. I can get it working fine once, but the next time I use it the fence doesn't match the drift angle. I agree with John about using a sled for the logs. You may be getting bow because the "verticality" of what you are cutting varies. I prefer a pivot for the little bit of resawing I do...the pivot is one point, my left thumb is another. I have also used a short fence, worked pretty well. By "short fence" I mean a fence only on the infeed side. -- dadiOH ____________________________ Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race? Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net |
#9
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Resawing on the band saw
Doug,
I have the same saw with a 6" riser and the griz resaw fence. Yep, that's the same setup I have. I use the 1/2" woodslicer blade and have no issues resawing. The woodslicer worked nicely for dry wood, but it wasn't working well with green wood (logs) for me. The 3/8" green wood blade from Highland Woodworking has been performing very well with fresh cut logs. I cut a few logs from a holly tree and a plum tree last October. The plum wood is dry nice and flat, but the holly is really cupping badly. I will be lucky to get 1/2" finished boards out of the 1" thick rough cuts. I don't know what I'll do with it anyway, it was mostly an experiment to try something new. I had to spend some time getting the tension set up What tension do you use with your Woodslicer? I have mine set to roughly the 3/4" mark on the indicator for the 3/8" blade and it still seems like it flexes a lot. I didn't want to compress the spring completely. I do make sure the blade tracks in the center of the tires. I have had a lot of issues with that. I could get the blade to track in the center of the top wheel, but it was almost ready to fall off the bottom wheel. I've shimmed the lower wheel a couple of times but was afraid to shim it out too far. I installed the polyurethane tires and added one more shim yesterday and finally got it to track in the center of both wheels. I'm not crazy about having the lower wheel shimmed out 3/8", but it seems to work OK. Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com |
#10
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Resawing on the band saw
On 5/5/2015 9:40 AM, HerHusband wrote:
I have a Grizzly G0555 band saw. I bought the tall resaw fence and have tried a few different blades including the 1/2" Woodslicer blade. I'm currently using a 3/8" wet-wood blade for resawing logs. Probably way way to narrow of a blade. The more the blade twists the more it will go off track of a straight line. Logs tend to be inconstant with moisture content, dryer in some spots and wetter in others. This can cause the blade to want to wander. A wider blade is less likely. If I resaw 6" or more I go with at least a 1" blade. I installed new polyurethane tires, got the saw as coplaner as possible, and have readjusted the guides many times. Anyway, I have just about given up trying to resaw with a parallel fence. No matter how many times I adjust the fence for drift the piece binds or the blade bows in the cut. I can get it working fine once, but the next time I use it the fence doesn't match the drift angle. I have tried different blade tensions, from the mark on the saw indicator, to looser, to much tighter. I haven't seen that it makes much difference. I can resaw "relatively" straight by just drawing a line and following it freehand. Are there any advantages to using a pivot fence instead of just cutting freehand? If you are taxing the saw/blade nothing is going to give you a good cut. |
#11
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Resawing on the band saw
On Tue, 5 May 2015 19:56:10 +0000 (UTC)
HerHusband wrote: I have had a lot of issues with that. I could get the blade to track in the center of the top wheel, but it was almost ready to fall off the bottom wheel. I've shimmed the lower wheel a couple of times but was afraid to shim it out too far. I installed the polyurethane tires and added one more shim yesterday and finally got it to track in the center of both wheels. I'm not crazy about having the lower wheel shimmed out 3/8", but it seems to work OK. i would look more closely at the bottom wheel and drive train something sounds wrong there |
#12
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Resawing on the band saw
On 05/05/2015 12:56 PM, HerHusband wrote:
Doug, I have the same saw with a 6" riser and the griz resaw fence. Yep, that's the same setup I have. I use the 1/2" woodslicer blade and have no issues resawing. The woodslicer worked nicely for dry wood, but it wasn't working well with green wood (logs) for me. The 3/8" green wood blade from Highland Woodworking has been performing very well with fresh cut logs. I cut a few logs from a holly tree and a plum tree last October. The plum wood is dry nice and flat, but the holly is really cupping badly. I will be lucky to get 1/2" finished boards out of the 1" thick rough cuts. I don't know what I'll do with it anyway, it was mostly an experiment to try something new. I had to spend some time getting the tension set up What tension do you use with your Woodslicer? I have mine set to roughly the 3/4" mark on the indicator for the 3/8" blade and it still seems like it flexes a lot. I didn't want to compress the spring completely. I adjusted the tension so much to account for the 1/2" difference in blade length because of the riser, I'm not sure the indicator has much meaning. I followed the Highland article suggestions on tensioning. http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/b...wing-tips.html I do make sure the blade tracks in the center of the tires. I have had a lot of issues with that. I could get the blade to track in the center of the top wheel, but it was almost ready to fall off the bottom wheel. I've shimmed the lower wheel a couple of times but was afraid to shim it out too far. I installed the polyurethane tires and added one more shim yesterday and finally got it to track in the center of both wheels. I'm not crazy about having the lower wheel shimmed out 3/8", but it seems to work OK. Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com -- "Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery" -Winston Churchill |
#13
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Resawing on the band saw
Electric Comet wrote in news:mibd0e$n96$1
@dont-email.me: On Tue, 5 May 2015 19:56:10 +0000 (UTC) HerHusband wrote: I have had a lot of issues with that. I could get the blade to track in the center of the top wheel, but it was almost ready to fall off the bottom wheel. I've shimmed the lower wheel a couple of times but was afraid to shim it out too far. I installed the polyurethane tires and added one more shim yesterday and finally got it to track in the center of both wheels. I'm not crazy about having the lower wheel shimmed out 3/8", but it seems to work OK. i would look more closely at the bottom wheel and drive train something sounds wrong there That's my thought as well. Are the two wheels lined up in all 3 axis? If you've got a riser block, they can sometimes make it difficult to get the two halves of the saw aligned properly because of the pin. Puckdropper -- Make it to fit, don't make it fit. |
#14
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Resawing on the band saw
On Tue, 05 May 2015 16:04:07 -0500, Leon wrote:
tried a few different blades including the 1/2" Woodslicer blade. I'm currently using a 3/8" wet-wood blade for resawing logs. Probably way way to narrow of a blade. The more the blade twists the more it will go off track of a straight line. Logs tend to be inconstant with moisture content, dryer in some spots and wetter in others. This can cause the blade to want to wander. A wider blade is less likely. If I resaw 6" or more I go with at least a 1" blade. But a 14" saw won't take a 1" blade (1/8" to 3/4" according to Grizzly). And from what I've read, even a 3/4" blade can bend the frame of a 14" bandsaw. A riser makes the problem worse. I used to cut a lot of green wood for turning. I wound up spraying Dri- Cote on the blade to minimize the sap buildup. That helped some. |
#15
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Resawing on the band saw
i would look more closely at the bottom wheel and drive train
something sounds wrong there That's my thought as well. Are the two wheels lined up in all 3 axis? If you've got a riser block, they can sometimes make it difficult to get the two halves of the saw aligned properly because of the pin. The lower wheel sits about 1/2" or so farther back then the top wheel. The only way I have been able to get the upper and lower wheels close to coplaner is to shim out the lower wheel. I currently have three shims behind the lower wheel, for a total thickness of about 3/8". The blade now tracks in the center of both wheels, the first time since I bought the saw. Grizzly suggested shimming the riser block, or removing the alignment pin and shifting the upper half. I thought shimming might tilt the blade and guards at another angle, front to back. Right now they're perfectly vertical. If I removed the alignment pin I was worried it might be difficult to line up the upper and lower half and keep them there over time. The only thing holding the two halves together is a single big bolt. It would also be odd to have the riser block shifted from the lower half of the saw. I just installed the poly tires and the third shim this last weekend, so maybe I'll try adjusting the fence for drift again. Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com |
#16
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Resawing on the band saw
On 05/05/2015 05:20 PM, HerHusband wrote:
i would look more closely at the bottom wheel and drive train something sounds wrong there That's my thought as well. Are the two wheels lined up in all 3 axis? If you've got a riser block, they can sometimes make it difficult to get the two halves of the saw aligned properly because of the pin. The lower wheel sits about 1/2" or so farther back then the top wheel. The only way I have been able to get the upper and lower wheels close to coplaner is to shim out the lower wheel. I currently have three shims behind the lower wheel, for a total thickness of about 3/8". The blade now tracks in the center of both wheels, the first time since I bought the saw. Grizzly suggested shimming the riser block, or removing the alignment pin and shifting the upper half. I thought shimming might tilt the blade and guards at another angle, front to back. Right now they're perfectly vertical. If I removed the alignment pin I was worried it might be difficult to line up the upper and lower half and keep them there over time. The only thing holding the two halves together is a single big bolt. It would also be odd to have the riser block shifted from the lower half of the saw. My wheels were perfectly co-planer after installing the riser block? I just installed the poly tires and the third shim this last weekend, so maybe I'll try adjusting the fence for drift again. Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com -- "Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery" -Winston Churchill |
#17
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Resawing on the band saw
On 05/05/2015 05:20 PM, HerHusband wrote:
i would look more closely at the bottom wheel and drive train something sounds wrong there That's my thought as well. Are the two wheels lined up in all 3 axis? If you've got a riser block, they can sometimes make it difficult to get the two halves of the saw aligned properly because of the pin. The lower wheel sits about 1/2" or so farther back then the top wheel. The only way I have been able to get the upper and lower wheels close to coplaner is to shim out the lower wheel. I currently have three shims behind the lower wheel, for a total thickness of about 3/8". The blade now tracks in the center of both wheels, the first time since I bought the saw. Grizzly suggested shimming the riser block, or removing the alignment pin and shifting the upper half. I thought shimming might tilt the blade and guards at another angle, front to back. Right now they're perfectly vertical. If I removed the alignment pin I was worried it might be difficult to line up the upper and lower half and keep them there over time. The only thing holding the two halves together is a single big bolt. It would also be odd to have the riser block shifted from the lower half of the saw. Were you wheels co-planer before installing the riser? I just installed the poly tires and the third shim this last weekend, so maybe I'll try adjusting the fence for drift again. Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com -- "Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery" -Winston Churchill |
#18
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Resawing on the band saw
On 5/5/2015 6:51 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Tue, 05 May 2015 16:04:07 -0500, Leon wrote: tried a few different blades including the 1/2" Woodslicer blade. I'm currently using a 3/8" wet-wood blade for resawing logs. Probably way way to narrow of a blade. The more the blade twists the more it will go off track of a straight line. Logs tend to be inconstant with moisture content, dryer in some spots and wetter in others. This can cause the blade to want to wander. A wider blade is less likely. If I resaw 6" or more I go with at least a 1" blade. But a 14" saw won't take a 1" blade (1/8" to 3/4" according to Grizzly). Right. He may be trying to cut way too much log for the blade and saw. And from what I've read, even a 3/4" blade can bend the frame of a 14" bandsaw. A riser makes the problem worse. Right. Well trying to tension a 3/4" blade might bend the frame. And of the blade gets hot it is going to stretch and throw the tension off again.... I used to cut a lot of green wood for turning. I wound up spraying Dri- Cote on the blade to minimize the sap buildup. That helped some. Humm I bet that did/does... I now have ceramic guides and those tend to keep the blade clean. |
#19
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Resawing on the band saw
The lower wheel sits about 1/2" or so farther back then the top
wheel. The only way I have been able to get the upper and lower wheels close to coplaner is to shim out the lower wheel. Were you wheels co-planer before installing the riser? I bought the riser at the same time I bought the saw, and installed the riser as I was assembling the saw. I never used the saw without the riser. As I mentioned, this is my first bandsaw. I didn't use the saw much during the first year or two, so I only checked if the wheels were coplaner when I started having so many problems with the saw. It didn't help that the first blade I ordered with the saw was damaged somehow and would not track or cut a straight line. It was a brand new blade so it never crossed my mind that it could be defective. I was reluctant to spend money on another blade, but the saw was unusable with that blade. Needless to say, I have not had the best experience with this bandsaw... I keep trying to tune it up so it will work better, buying better blades, shimming the wheels, installing polyurethane tires, etc. It is usable now, but still not what I would consider a precision woodworking tool. Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com |
#20
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Resawing on the band saw
He may be trying to cut way too much log for the blade and saw.
Last fall I ripped a well dried 6"x8" beam into boards with a 1/2" Timberwolf blade. I eventually got several usable boards from it, but had lots of problems with the blade bowing in the wood. I was cutting very slowly too, so I doubt the feed rate was an issue. trying to tension a 3/4" blade might bend the frame. I have only used 1/2" blades, except for the 3/8" green wood blade I have on the saw now. Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com |
#21
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Resawing on the band saw
On 05/05/2015 10:18 PM, HerHusband wrote:
The lower wheel sits about 1/2" or so farther back then the top wheel. The only way I have been able to get the upper and lower wheels close to coplaner is to shim out the lower wheel. Were you wheels co-planer before installing the riser? I bought the riser at the same time I bought the saw, and installed the riser as I was assembling the saw. I never used the saw without the riser. As I mentioned, this is my first bandsaw. I didn't use the saw much during the first year or two, so I only checked if the wheels were coplaner when I started having so many problems with the saw. It didn't help that the first blade I ordered with the saw was damaged somehow and would not track or cut a straight line. It was a brand new blade so it never crossed my mind that it could be defective. I was reluctant to spend money on another blade, but the saw was unusable with that blade. Needless to say, I have not had the best experience with this bandsaw... I keep trying to tune it up so it will work better, buying better blades, shimming the wheels, installing polyurethane tires, etc. It is usable now, but still not what I would consider a precision woodworking tool. Have you contacted Griz? Their support is very good IMO. I've had zero problems with my G0555 with riser block. Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com -- "Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery" -Winston Churchill |
#22
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Resawing on the band saw
Have you contacted Griz? Their support is very good IMO.
I've had zero problems with my G0555 with riser block. Yep, they mentioned it could be worn out tires. I haven't used the saw that much, but I upgraded to polyurethane tires anyway. I haven't had a chance to really work with the saw since then. They said I could remove the alignment pin from the riser, but I was concerned it would be difficult to get things aligned and keep it there without the pin. Then also said I could shim one side of the riser, but I was concerned that might tilt the upper half at a weird angle. I still might give those ideas a try when I get the chance, just to see what effect it has. Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com |
#23
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Resawing on the band saw
On Wed, 6 May 2015 14:48:47 +0000 (UTC)
HerHusband wrote: I still might give those ideas a try when I get the chance, just to see what effect it has. i bet you may have already considered that you got a lemon it can happen if the saw structure wasn't properly aged and stress-relieved it could have a permanent warp so obviously no amount of shimming or adjusting will keep it aligned i have a delta and the "C" is two-piece casting i don't know about your saw but it's possible if it has big castings that they were not aged or stress-relieved enough or incorrectly some manufacturers have been known to rush things out the door and they don't get the attention they need maybe if yours it two piece you can adjust it where they meet when i got my used delta it was still new but had been left outside for a bit the previous owner made some cosmetic modifications to it but i spent some time getting it to cut straight and it is good enough but i do not do any resawing |
#24
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Resawing on the band saw
On Wed, 6 May 2015 05:18:14 +0000 (UTC), HerHusband
wrote: SNIP As I mentioned, this is my first bandsaw. I didn't use the saw much during the first year or two, so I only checked if the wheels were coplaner when I started having so many problems with the saw. Snip Needless to say, I have not had the best experience with this bandsaw... I keep trying to tune it up so it will work better, buying better blades, shimming the wheels, installing polyurethane tires, etc. It is usable now, but still not what I would consider a precision woodworking tool. Are you familiar with Carter Products? http://www.carterproducts.com/ They have been around forever and started out by producing better BS wheels. They have some very innovative bandsaw products, however, that isn't the point. Check out this video. It is by a Carter Rep., but he is not trying to sell anything - just telling/showing how he sets up a BS. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU You might want to put your saw back to "stock" and try his method. Jerry O. |
#25
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Resawing on the band saw
On 5/6/2015 12:23 AM, HerHusband wrote:
He may be trying to cut way too much log for the blade and saw. Last fall I ripped a well dried 6"x8" beam into boards with a 1/2" Timberwolf blade. I eventually got several usable boards from it, but had lots of problems with the blade bowing in the wood. I was cutting very slowly too, so I doubt the feed rate was an issue. The key word there is a well dried beam. Your log might be wet in spots. trying to tension a 3/4" blade might bend the frame. I have only used 1/2" blades, except for the 3/8" green wood blade I have on the saw now. Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com |
#26
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Resawing on the band saw
On Tue, 5 May 2015 14:40:57 +0000 (UTC), HerHusband wrote:
I have a Grizzly G0555 band saw. I bought the tall resaw fence and have tried a few different blades including the 1/2" Woodslicer blade. I'm currently using a 3/8" wet-wood blade for resawing logs. I installed new polyurethane tires, got the saw as coplaner as possible, and have readjusted the guides many times. Anyway, I have just about given up trying to resaw with a parallel fence. No matter how many times I adjust the fence for drift the piece binds or the blade bows in the cut. I can get it working fine once, but the next time I use it the fence doesn't match the drift angle. I have tried different blade tensions, from the mark on the saw indicator, to looser, to much tighter. I haven't seen that it makes much difference. I can resaw "relatively" straight by just drawing a line and following it freehand. Are there any advantages to using a pivot fence instead of just cutting freehand? Of course, I can't really draw a line on a log to resaw it freehand. I kind of need the fence for that. Is it just the saw? Thanks, Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com Did you ever resolve the tracking problem that had plagued your saw for 7 years? http://www.homeownershub.com/woodwor...ms-778938-.htm If not, your success resawing green logs will be marginal at best. |
#27
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Resawing on the band saw
Did you ever resolve the tracking problem that had plagued your saw
for 7 years? http://www.homeownershub.com/woodwor...ndsaw-tracking -problems-778938-.htm If not, your success resawing green logs will be marginal at best. Hmm... That's funny. I didn't remember complaining about the same problem last year. But to answer your question, nope, still having issues getting it setup correctly. Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com |
#28
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Resawing on the band saw
Leon,
He may be trying to cut way too much log for the blade and saw. Last fall I ripped a well dried 6"x8" beam into boards with a 1/2" Timberwolf blade. I eventually got several usable boards from it, but had lots of problems with the blade bowing in the wood. I was cutting very slowly too, so I doubt the feed rate was an issue. The key word there is a well dried beam. Your log might be wet in spots. The bowing problem occurs with wood that has been drying for 50+ years as well as fresh green logs. So I don't think it is an issue with the material I am cutting. Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com |
#29
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Resawing on the band saw
On Wed, 6 May 2015 20:35:52 +0000 (UTC)
HerHusband wrote: Hmm... That's funny. I didn't remember complaining about the same problem last year. But to answer your question, nope, still having issues getting it setup correctly. you will have to get it setup now because of you try to sell it the buyer will go looking for answers on how to adjust it and find all your posts i agree with going back to stock setup and proceed from there making only small changes then test and repeat if needed |
#30
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Resawing on the band saw
On Wed, 06 May 2015 14:48:47 +0000, HerHusband wrote:
They said I could remove the alignment pin from the riser, but I was concerned it would be difficult to get things aligned and keep it there without the pin. I'm not familiar with the setup, but couldn't you remove the pin, get everything lined up, clamp it there, and drill a new hole through the riser and what it sits on? After getting that all tightened up, I'd be tempted to enlarge the original holes to where they lined up for a larger size bolt and fasten it together there as well. |
#31
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Resawing on the band saw
HerHusband wrote in
: Yep, they mentioned it could be worn out tires. I haven't used the saw that much, but I upgraded to polyurethane tires anyway. I haven't had a chance to really work with the saw since then. They said I could remove the alignment pin from the riser, but I was concerned it would be difficult to get things aligned and keep it there without the pin. Then also said I could shim one side of the riser, but I was concerned that might tilt the upper half at a weird angle. I still might give those ideas a try when I get the chance, just to see what effect it has. Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com Don't worry about the pin. If your Grizzly is like my Jet (many are--I used a Powermatic riser kit), the pin is just an alignment guide. If it's causing problems, remove it. The big bolt that holds both pieces together will hold things together just fine. Puckdropper -- Make it to fit, don't make it fit. |
#32
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Resawing on the band saw
On 5/6/2015 3:37 PM, HerHusband wrote:
Leon, He may be trying to cut way too much log for the blade and saw. Last fall I ripped a well dried 6"x8" beam into boards with a 1/2" Timberwolf blade. I eventually got several usable boards from it, but had lots of problems with the blade bowing in the wood. I was cutting very slowly too, so I doubt the feed rate was an issue. The key word there is a well dried beam. Your log might be wet in spots. The bowing problem occurs with wood that has been drying for 50+ years as well as fresh green logs. So I don't think it is an issue with the material I am cutting. Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com Have you tried a brand new blade? |
#33
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Resawing on the band saw
On 5/5/15 1:56 PM, HerHusband wrote:
Doug, I have the same saw with a 6" riser and the griz resaw fence. Yep, that's the same setup I have. I use the 1/2" woodslicer blade and have no issues resawing. Be sure to verify that both ends of the riser block are parallel to each other and square to the blocks axis. -BR The woodslicer worked nicely for dry wood, but it wasn't working well with green wood (logs) for me. The 3/8" green wood blade from Highland Woodworking has been performing very well with fresh cut logs. I cut a few logs from a holly tree and a plum tree last October. The plum wood is dry nice and flat, but the holly is really cupping badly. I will be lucky to get 1/2" finished boards out of the 1" thick rough cuts. I don't know what I'll do with it anyway, it was mostly an experiment to try something new. I had to spend some time getting the tension set up What tension do you use with your Woodslicer? I have mine set to roughly the 3/4" mark on the indicator for the 3/8" blade and it still seems like it flexes a lot. I didn't want to compress the spring completely. I do make sure the blade tracks in the center of the tires. I have had a lot of issues with that. I could get the blade to track in the center of the top wheel, but it was almost ready to fall off the bottom wheel. I've shimmed the lower wheel a couple of times but was afraid to shim it out too far. I installed the polyurethane tires and added one more shim yesterday and finally got it to track in the center of both wheels. I'm not crazy about having the lower wheel shimmed out 3/8", but it seems to work OK. Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com --- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: --- |
#34
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Resawing on the band saw
I have a Grizzly G0555 band saw. I bought the tall resaw fence and
have tried a few different blades including the 1/2" Woodslicer blade. I'm currently using a 3/8" wet-wood blade for resawing logs. I installed new polyurethane tires, got the saw as coplaner as possible, and have readjusted the guides many times. Anyway, I have just about given up trying to resaw with a parallel fence. No matter how many times I adjust the fence for drift the piece binds or the blade bows in the cut. I can get it working fine once, but the next time I use it the fence doesn't match the drift angle. I have tried different blade tensions, from the mark on the saw indicator, to looser, to much tighter. I haven't seen that it makes much difference. I can resaw "relatively" straight by just drawing a line and following it freehand. Are there any advantages to using a pivot fence instead of just cutting freehand? Of course, I can't really draw a line on a log to resaw it freehand. I kind of need the fence for that. Is it just the saw? Just a follow-up to my earlier post... I dismantled the G0555 band saw and drilled out the holes for the alignment pins. I think the original holes were 1/4", I oversized them to 3/8". This gave me a tiny bit of play to adjust the upper half of the frame. I put the saw back together and tightened the blade. Both wheels are coplaner and the blade tracks in the center of both wheels. I still needed the shims behind the lower wheel, so shifting the upper half slightly didn't make a lot of difference. Anyway, I adjusted the fence for the blade drift and resawed a couple of small 2x8 boards with no difficulties. Nice and flat, no bowing in the middle. So for now, with the current blade, the saw seems to be working as it should. Thanks, Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com |
#35
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Resawing on the band saw
On 5/14/2015 8:01 PM, HerHusband wrote:
I have a Grizzly G0555 band saw. I bought the tall resaw fence and have tried a few different blades including the 1/2" Woodslicer blade. I'm currently using a 3/8" wet-wood blade for resawing logs. I installed new polyurethane tires, got the saw as coplaner as possible, and have readjusted the guides many times. Anyway, I have just about given up trying to resaw with a parallel fence. No matter how many times I adjust the fence for drift the piece binds or the blade bows in the cut. I can get it working fine once, but the next time I use it the fence doesn't match the drift angle. I have tried different blade tensions, from the mark on the saw indicator, to looser, to much tighter. I haven't seen that it makes much difference. I can resaw "relatively" straight by just drawing a line and following it freehand. Are there any advantages to using a pivot fence instead of just cutting freehand? Of course, I can't really draw a line on a log to resaw it freehand. I kind of need the fence for that. Is it just the saw? Just a follow-up to my earlier post... I dismantled the G0555 band saw and drilled out the holes for the alignment pins. I think the original holes were 1/4", I oversized them to 3/8". This gave me a tiny bit of play to adjust the upper half of the frame. I put the saw back together and tightened the blade. Both wheels are coplaner and the blade tracks in the center of both wheels. I still needed the shims behind the lower wheel, so shifting the upper half slightly didn't make a lot of difference. Anyway, I adjusted the fence for the blade drift and resawed a couple of small 2x8 boards with no difficulties. Nice and flat, no bowing in the middle. So for now, with the current blade, the saw seems to be working as it should. Thanks, Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com Thanks for the followup. I did the same to my delta years ago, when I told a group on lumberjocks that I received a ton of flack telling me that doesn't work, and is necessary. Amazing that people will tell you that it can't solve your problem even though it did. -- Jeff |
#36
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Resawing on the band saw
"woodchucker" wrote in message
... I did the same to my delta years ago, when I told a group on lumberjocks that I received a ton of flack telling me that doesn't work, and is necessary. Amazing that people will tell you that it can't solve your problem even though it did. I've run into that kind of thing numerous times... it's annoying! |
#37
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Resawing on the band saw
On Fri, 15 May 2015 00:01:37 +0000 (UTC)
HerHusband wrote: the middle. So for now, with the current blade, the saw seems to be working as it should. now you can sell it with integrity and principles intact |
#38
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Resawing on the band saw
the middle. So for now, with the current blade, the saw seems to be
working as it should. now you can sell it with integrity and principles intact While I would like to upgrade to a better saw, it's not in my budget right now. Besides, even I were to sell it I would let the buyer know any issues I have had with it. Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com |
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