I have a Jet 14in. bandsaw (JWBS-14OS) with a 3/4 HP,
120V motor. I've studied some books on adjusting and using
it and I think I have it set up right.

It works fine when I cut through wood, including oak, up
to about 2in. thick. But when I try cutting anything
greater than about 3in. thick (even a 2X4) I have to
push it very hard, feed it very slowly (15 seconds to
go an inch) and the upper thrust bearing starts to
scream.

This saw has a vertical cutting capacity of 6in. and I
want to be able to use it to resaw oak planks up to that
width. But the saw just won't do it now.

I'm using a 1/2in. wide, 4TPI, Timber Wolf blade, got it
new, very little use so far. From what I can tell by
looking at it, the teeth are not hooked, i.e. the teeth
are not pointed down as they cut into the wood.

Duginske's book says that I should be using a blade with
either hook or hook-skip teeth. I just called the manufacturer
and they said they have a blade that will work, a 1/2in.,
3TPI blade for resawing but they don't know if it has hook
teeth (!).

Does anyone know if hook teeth is really necessary in this
case? Will hook teeth solve this problem? I know 3/4 HP
is somewhat low, but it sure seems like this saw ought to
be able to resaw a 2X4.

Thanks,
Billy

"Billy Smith" wrote in message
news:d_oMe.6642$Al5.4008@trnddc04...


Does anyone know if hook teeth is really necessary in this
case? Will hook teeth solve this problem? I know 3/4 HP
is somewhat low, but it sure seems like this saw ought to
be able to resaw a 2X4.

Don't know that hook teeth are any better, but sounds as if you've got a
very dull blade. For resawing dry wood, I found skip design to be adequate.
For wet wood, and you have to presume construction grade stuff to be wet
inside, and resinous wood, I find that the set in the teeth is the
determinant of how well it cuts.

Billy Smith wrote:
I have a Jet 14in. bandsaw (JWBS-14OS) with a 3/4 HP,
120V motor. I've studied some books on adjusting and using
it and I think I have it set up right.
=20
It works fine when I cut through wood, including oak, up
to about 2in. thick. But when I try cutting anything
greater than about 3in. thick (even a 2X4) I have to
push it very hard, feed it very slowly (15 seconds to
go an inch) and the upper thrust bearing starts to
scream.
=20
This saw has a vertical cutting capacity of 6in. and I
want to be able to use it to resaw oak planks up to that
width. But the saw just won't do it now.
=20
I'm using a 1/2in. wide, 4TPI, Timber Wolf blade, got it
new, very little use so far. From what I can tell by
looking at it, the teeth are not hooked, i.e. the teeth
are not pointed down as they cut into the wood.
=20
Duginske's book says that I should be using a blade with
either hook or hook-skip teeth. I just called the manufacturer
and they said they have a blade that will work, a 1/2in.,
3TPI blade for resawing but they don't know if it has hook
teeth (!).
=20
Does anyone know if hook teeth is really necessary in this
case? Will hook teeth solve this problem? I know 3/4 HP
is somewhat low, but it sure seems like this saw ought to
be able to resaw a 2X4.
=20
Thanks,
Billy=20
=20
=20

Sounds Like a dull blade...


You my want to order the catalog from these guys. The one I have=20
explains the blades very well

http://www.tufftooth.com/

Look at the Band Saw blades and note this one.

"New Swedish Silicon Blades - 3/4"- NEW"

These thin kerf resaw blades are available from other suppliers as well.

--=20
Will R.
Jewel Boxes and Wood Art
http://woodwork.pmccl.com
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those=20
who have not got it.=94 George Bernard Shaw

"Billy Smith" wrote in message

Does anyone know if hook teeth is really necessary in this
case? Will hook teeth solve this problem? I know 3/4 HP
is somewhat low, but it sure seems like this saw ought to
be able to resaw a 2X4.


I resaw with a 3 TPI, 1/2" skip tooth on my 14" Delta with riser:

http://www.bcsaw.com/products_bandsaw_frame.htm

Good blades, flat welds, and much less expensive than many of the boutique
varieties. Highly recommended.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 8/07/05

"WillR" wrote in message

Sounds Like a dull blade...



Nah, it worked perfectly when he bought it 6 years ago.

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
"WillR" wrote in message
=20
Sounds Like a dull blade...
=20
=20
=20
Nah, it worked perfectly when he bought it 6 years ago.=20
=20
=20

I know what you mean. Mine had the same problem. lol


--=20
Will R.
Jewel Boxes and Wood Art
http://woodwork.pmccl.com
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those=20
who have not got it.=94 George Bernard Shaw

Make sure the blade was not installed backwards. A new blade better cut more
than a 2x4.

On Tue, 16 Aug 2005 17:02:01 GMT, "Billy Smith" wrote:

I have a Jet 14in. bandsaw (JWBS-14OS) with a 3/4 HP,
120V motor. I've studied some books on adjusting and using
it and I think I have it set up right.

It works fine when I cut through wood, including oak, up
to about 2in. thick. But when I try cutting anything
greater than about 3in. thick (even a 2X4) I have to
push it very hard, feed it very slowly (15 seconds to
go an inch) and the upper thrust bearing starts to
scream.

This saw has a vertical cutting capacity of 6in. and I
want to be able to use it to resaw oak planks up to that
width. But the saw just won't do it now.

I'm using a 1/2in. wide, 4TPI, Timber Wolf blade, got it
new, very little use so far. From what I can tell by
looking at it, the teeth are not hooked, i.e. the teeth
are not pointed down as they cut into the wood.

Duginske's book says that I should be using a blade with
either hook or hook-skip teeth. I just called the manufacturer
and they said they have a blade that will work, a 1/2in.,
3TPI blade for resawing but they don't know if it has hook
teeth (!).

Does anyone know if hook teeth is really necessary in this
case? Will hook teeth solve this problem? I know 3/4 HP
is somewhat low, but it sure seems like this saw ought to
be able to resaw a 2X4.

Thanks,
Billy

Assuming the blade is sharp and properly installed (it IS easy to install it
backwards/upside down) and the guides/bearings/tension/tracking/etc. are set up
ok, you may be either feeding too fast or binding the blade... a tiny bit of
wiggle or unevenness (is that a word?) can make the blade howl or bind up..

I have the 14" rigid, and cut bowl blanks out of green wood up to 8" thick with
it... Knowing that it's a low-end, 3/4 hp saw, I use a good 3 tpi blade and use
a LOT of patience... pushing too hard or turning too sharp can overload that 3/4
hp in a hurry.. YMMV


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"Billy Smith" wrote in news:d_oMe.6642$Al5.4008
@trnddc04:



I'm using a 1/2in. wide, 4TPI, Timber Wolf blade, got it
new, very little use so far. From what I can tell by


Heresy, I know - but I ended up not being a big fan of Timerwolf's
(wolves?)

For resawing, I took a chance on the WoodSlicer from Highland Hardware
and really made some progress.

I have the Jet 14" closed stand saw. It's most likely my inability to
setup the TimberWolf 1/2" -- but in any event, the WoodSlicer made
resawing possible for me...

Patrick Conroy wrote in news:4c3ct2-
:

snip
Heresy, I know - but I ended up not being a big fan of Timerwolf's
(wolves?)

For resawing, I took a chance on the WoodSlicer from Highland Hardware
and really made some progress.

I have the Jet 14" closed stand saw. It's most likely my inability to
setup the TimberWolf 1/2" -- but in any event, the WoodSlicer made
resawing possible for me...


A similar blade is often available in bulk, made up by your local
sharpening service. I have such a blade in my Jet 16" saw, and the
difference between that, and a Jet labeled blade would have you think that
the saw had been replaced by a top -dollar Euro wonder.

I got mine at Hastings Saw in Rohnert Park, CA. They have a small simple
advertisment in the back of Woodwork Magazine.

Patriarch

On Wed, 17 Aug 2005 21:24:15 -0500, Patriarch
wrote:

Patrick Conroy wrote in news:4c3ct2-
:

snip
Heresy, I know - but I ended up not being a big fan of Timerwolf's
(wolves?)

For resawing, I took a chance on the WoodSlicer from Highland Hardware
and really made some progress.

I have the Jet 14" closed stand saw. It's most likely my inability to
setup the TimberWolf 1/2" -- but in any event, the WoodSlicer made
resawing possible for me...


A similar blade is often available in bulk, made up by your local
sharpening service. I have such a blade in my Jet 16" saw, and the
difference between that, and a Jet labeled blade would have you think that
the saw had been replaced by a top -dollar Euro wonder.

I got mine at Hastings Saw in Rohnert Park, CA. They have a small simple
advertisment in the back of Woodwork Magazine.

Patriarch

I'll second that.... the blade that came on my rigid 14" made Harbor Freight
blades seem like good quality...

I buy my blades from Ideal Saw Works in Fresno, Ca and for $13 to $20 they'll
make whatever size/tooth/tpi blade for me while I wait and look at all the tools
that I can't afford.. (and somehow manage to buy)


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Patriarch wrote in
. 97.136:



I got mine at Hastings Saw in Rohnert Park, CA. They have a small
simple advertisment in the back of Woodwork Magazine.

T'anks... I'm thinking about trying the BC Saw route, as made popular by
the not-too-distant-past FWW Article on bandsawing by that Canadian
Feller...

Think he was using plain ol' Starrets, if I recall.

Anyhows - I'm on hold now thinking of whether to buy the riser and order
105" blades or stay with the 93 1/2"...

On Thu, 18 Aug 2005 23:56:09 GMT, Patrick Conroy
wrote:

Patriarch wrote in
.97.136:



I got mine at Hastings Saw in Rohnert Park, CA. They have a small
simple advertisment in the back of Woodwork Magazine.

T'anks... I'm thinking about trying the BC Saw route, as made popular by
the not-too-distant-past FWW Article on bandsawing by that Canadian
Feller...

Think he was using plain ol' Starrets, if I recall.

Anyhows - I'm on hold now thinking of whether to buy the riser and order
105" blades or stay with the 93 1/2"...

I put the riser in my Rigid BS and have never regretted it...
AFAIK, you don't LOSE anything (except for $50-60) by putting the riser in, and
I think I feel more comfortable with the upper wheel being further away from the
table..
Might be my height, or just a mental thing, but the saw just seems to "fit" me
better now..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

I answered the question by trying a blade that was same as the
one that did not work, i.e. 1/2 in. wide, 4TPI, but with hook teeth.
Results: works like a charm. I even resawed through 6 in. of red
oak. Unless something is wrong with the first blade, I guess the
hook teeth make a big difference with this saw.

Thanks for the input.

--Billy


"Billy Smith" wrote in message
news:d_oMe.6642$Al5.4008@trnddc04...
I have a Jet 14in. bandsaw (JWBS-14OS) with a 3/4 HP,
120V motor. I've studied some books on adjusting and using
it and I think I have it set up right.

It works fine when I cut through wood, including oak, up
to about 2in. thick. But when I try cutting anything
greater than about 3in. thick (even a 2X4) I have to
push it very hard, feed it very slowly (15 seconds to
go an inch) and the upper thrust bearing starts to
scream.

This saw has a vertical cutting capacity of 6in. and I
want to be able to use it to resaw oak planks up to that
width. But the saw just won't do it now.

I'm using a 1/2in. wide, 4TPI, Timber Wolf blade, got it
new, very little use so far. From what I can tell by
looking at it, the teeth are not hooked, i.e. the teeth
are not pointed down as they cut into the wood.

Duginske's book says that I should be using a blade with
either hook or hook-skip teeth. I just called the manufacturer
and they said they have a blade that will work, a 1/2in.,
3TPI blade for resawing but they don't know if it has hook
teeth (!).

Does anyone know if hook teeth is really necessary in this
case? Will hook teeth solve this problem? I know 3/4 HP
is somewhat low, but it sure seems like this saw ought to
be able to resaw a 2X4.

Thanks,
Billy

On Mon, 22 Aug 2005 02:31:06 GMT, "Billy Smith" wrote:

My guess is that the 1st blade wasn't sharp... the hook shouldn't make that much
difference..
I'm certainly no expert, but I seem to recall reading somewhere that the no/very
little hook was for smoother cuts... that might translate to a bit slower cut,
but it should still do your stuff well if sharp..

I answered the question by trying a blade that was same as the
one that did not work, i.e. 1/2 in. wide, 4TPI, but with hook teeth.
Results: works like a charm. I even resawed through 6 in. of red
oak. Unless something is wrong with the first blade, I guess the
hook teeth make a big difference with this saw.

Thanks for the input.

--Billy


"Billy Smith" wrote in message
news:d_oMe.6642$Al5.4008@trnddc04...
I have a Jet 14in. bandsaw (JWBS-14OS) with a 3/4 HP,
120V motor. I've studied some books on adjusting and using
it and I think I have it set up right.

It works fine when I cut through wood, including oak, up
to about 2in. thick. But when I try cutting anything
greater than about 3in. thick (even a 2X4) I have to
push it very hard, feed it very slowly (15 seconds to
go an inch) and the upper thrust bearing starts to
scream.

This saw has a vertical cutting capacity of 6in. and I
want to be able to use it to resaw oak planks up to that
width. But the saw just won't do it now.

I'm using a 1/2in. wide, 4TPI, Timber Wolf blade, got it
new, very little use so far. From what I can tell by
looking at it, the teeth are not hooked, i.e. the teeth
are not pointed down as they cut into the wood.

Duginske's book says that I should be using a blade with
either hook or hook-skip teeth. I just called the manufacturer
and they said they have a blade that will work, a 1/2in.,
3TPI blade for resawing but they don't know if it has hook
teeth (!).

Does anyone know if hook teeth is really necessary in this
case? Will hook teeth solve this problem? I know 3/4 HP
is somewhat low, but it sure seems like this saw ought to
be able to resaw a 2X4.

Thanks,
Billy





mac

Please remove splinters before emailing