On Mon, 22 Aug 2005 02:31:06 GMT, "Billy Smith" wrote:

My guess is that the 1st blade wasn't sharp... the hook shouldn't make that much
difference..
I'm certainly no expert, but I seem to recall reading somewhere that the no/very
little hook was for smoother cuts... that might translate to a bit slower cut,
but it should still do your stuff well if sharp..

I answered the question by trying a blade that was same as the
one that did not work, i.e. 1/2 in. wide, 4TPI, but with hook teeth.
Results: works like a charm. I even resawed through 6 in. of red
oak. Unless something is wrong with the first blade, I guess the
hook teeth make a big difference with this saw.

Thanks for the input.

--Billy


"Billy Smith" wrote in message
news:d_oMe.6642$Al5.4008@trnddc04...
I have a Jet 14in. bandsaw (JWBS-14OS) with a 3/4 HP,
120V motor. I've studied some books on adjusting and using
it and I think I have it set up right.

It works fine when I cut through wood, including oak, up
to about 2in. thick. But when I try cutting anything
greater than about 3in. thick (even a 2X4) I have to
push it very hard, feed it very slowly (15 seconds to
go an inch) and the upper thrust bearing starts to
scream.

This saw has a vertical cutting capacity of 6in. and I
want to be able to use it to resaw oak planks up to that
width. But the saw just won't do it now.

I'm using a 1/2in. wide, 4TPI, Timber Wolf blade, got it
new, very little use so far. From what I can tell by
looking at it, the teeth are not hooked, i.e. the teeth
are not pointed down as they cut into the wood.

Duginske's book says that I should be using a blade with
either hook or hook-skip teeth. I just called the manufacturer
and they said they have a blade that will work, a 1/2in.,
3TPI blade for resawing but they don't know if it has hook
teeth (!).

Does anyone know if hook teeth is really necessary in this
case? Will hook teeth solve this problem? I know 3/4 HP
is somewhat low, but it sure seems like this saw ought to
be able to resaw a 2X4.

Thanks,
Billy





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