I have infrequent need for a chainsaw and have a little McCullough electric that does OK. There are a couple of trees down in the back too remote for the electric and I'd like to have a gas saw to take advantage of found logs or limbs.

Since my use is infrequent, I don't want to invest too much. CL frequently has Poulans available. Here's an example: http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/4346181306.html

Any thoughts?

Larry

"Gramps' shop" wrote in message
...

I have infrequent need for a chainsaw and have a little McCullough electric
that does OK. There are a couple of trees down in the back too remote for
the electric and I'd like to have a gas saw to take advantage of found logs
or limbs.

Since my use is infrequent, I don't want to invest too much. CL frequently
has Poulans available. Here's an example:
http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/4346181306.html

Any thoughts?


Gramps, I bought a Poulan around six or seven years ago, from a local
hardware store/lumberyard because I thought that they would stand behind it
if it gave me trouble. Which it did, right away. I could never get it
working right, and neither could they. Took me a month to get my money back
from them. So as far as I'm concerned, Poulan chain saws aren't worth a
damn, and neither is that hardware store/lumberyard.

I've got a medium-size Stihl now and am happy with it. The local tree guys
tend to use Husqvarnas, but they say that they eat starter ropes. On the
other hand, they start them a dozen times a day, and I start mine a dozen
times a year.

Tom

"Gramps' shop" wrote in message
...
I have infrequent need for a chainsaw and have a little McCullough
electric that does OK. There are a couple of trees down in the back too
remote for the electric and I'd like to have a gas saw to take advantage
of found logs or limbs.

Since my use is infrequent, I don't want to invest too much. CL
frequently has Poulans available. Here's an example:
http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/4346181306.html

Go to the local pawn shop, and find you an old saw with good compression,
and ask them to start it up for you. I have a Poulan a bought when Huge hit
in (89 I think) and I use it for mainly trimming. I guarantee I could go
get it out of the shed, put fresh gas in it, and start it on the 4th or 5th
pull. I don't know about the newer Poulans. As little as you sound like
you use one, an old used saw sounds like what you need.
--
Jim in NC


---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

On 2/23/2014 2:52 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
I have infrequent need for a chainsaw and have a little McCullough electric that does OK. There are a couple of trees down in the back too remote for the electric and I'd like to have a gas saw to take advantage of found logs or limbs.

Since my use is infrequent, I don't want to invest too much. CL frequently has Poulans available. Here's an example: http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/4346181306.html

Any thoughts?

Larry


That is because owners of Stihl and Husky don't sell them. Poulan
owners are giving up or upgrading to Stihl.

Gramps' shop wrote:
I have infrequent need for a chainsaw and have a little McCullough electric that does OK. There are a couple of trees down in the back too remote for the electric and I'd like to have a gas saw to take advantage of found logs or limbs.

Since my use is infrequent, I don't want to invest too much. CL frequently has Poulans available. Here's an example: http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/4346181306.html

Any thoughts?

Larry

I have two Huskys and love them for the compression relief button.
Easier to pull and always start at 1-3 pulls. The reason I have two
is: After 12 or 13 years I buggered up the key in the flywheel. New
flywheels are about $100 so I opted to buy a new saw. Then I found a
used flywheel on Ebay for $15 and bought it. So now I have a 20
incher and a 18 incher for trimming.

I have had a Poulan and a Mac. Both had lightweight chains that had
to be re-tensioned every 15 minutes and both had starting problems
after about a year.

--
 GW Ross 

 Some minds should be cultivated, 
 others plowed under... 

Morgans wrote:


Go to the local pawn shop, and find you an old saw with good
compression, and ask them to start it up for you. I have a Poulan a
bought when Huge hit in (89 I think) and I use it for mainly
trimming. I guarantee I could go get it out of the shed, put fresh
gas in it, and start it on the 4th or 5th pull. I don't know about
the newer Poulans. As little as you sound like you use one, an old
used saw sounds like what you need.

Those were the good old days for Poulan. Today, they are what is considered
a 50 hour saw. Pure junk. For the very occassional user, it might be saw
enough but if you'd plan on using it every year - bad money spent. I'm a
Stihl guy through and through, so that would be my recommendation, but
that's me.

Rather than going the pawn shop route, I'd suggest going to a local shop
that sells and maintains chainsaws. Not to a big box store or to a store
that simply sells them. You want to go to the guys that actually fix them
right there at their shop. They'll give you the honest scoop on what's good
and what isn't but more importantly, they usually have some pretty good
deals on trade-ins. Plus, you've got a place that will stand behind their
saw.


--

-Mike-

In article ,
Gramps' shop wrote:

I have infrequent need for a chainsaw and have a little McCullough electric
that does OK. There are a couple of trees down in the back too remote for
the electric and I'd like to have a gas saw to take advantage of found logs
or limbs.

Since my use is infrequent, I don't want to invest too much. CL frequently
has Poulans available. Here's an example:
http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/4346181306.html

Any thoughts?

Larry

I've got a couple of Jonsereds. Reliable, sturdy, not terribly
expensive.

--
³Youth ages, immaturity is outgrown, ignorance can be educated, and drunkenness
sobered, but stupid lasts forever.² -- Aristophanes

Gramps' shop wrote:

I have infrequent need for a chainsaw and have a little McCullough
electric
that does OK. There are a couple of trees down in the back too
remote for
the electric and I'd like to have a gas saw to take advantage of
found logs
or limbs.

Since my use is infrequent, I don't want to invest too much. CL
frequently
has Poulans available. Here's an example:
http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/4346181306.html

Any thoughts?
--------------------------------------------------------------------
For your infrequent use, I'd rent one.

Unless I miss my guess, storage space is at a premium in your shop.

Lew

Dave Balderstone wrote:
In article ,
Gramps' shop wrote:

I have infrequent need for a chainsaw and have a little McCullough
electric that does OK. There are a couple of trees down in the back
too remote for the electric and I'd like to have a gas saw to take
advantage of found logs or limbs.

Since my use is infrequent, I don't want to invest too much. CL
frequently has Poulans available. Here's an example:
http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/4346181306.html

Any thoughts?

Larry

I've got a couple of Jonsereds. Reliable, sturdy, not terribly
expensive.

They've always been good saws but you don't find dealers around much
anymore. Or - shops to repair them.

--

-Mike-

On 2/23/2014 12:52 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
I have infrequent need for a chainsaw and have a little McCullough

electric that does OK. There are a couple of trees down in the

back too remote for the electric and I'd like to have a gas saw

to take advantage of found logs or limbs.

Since my use is infrequent, I don't want to invest too much.

CL frequently has Poulans available. Here's an example:

http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/4346181306.html

Any thoughts?

Larry


I cut about 12 cords a year. My pardner just bought the Husky 460 with
a 24" bar. I have a Husky 435 with a 16" bar. I will be getting the
identical Husky, or a Stihl, (I think 391) with the 24" bar.

Point is, buy quality and cry only once. Stihl or Husky will do the
work. Both are serviceable, with parts easily available.

Main things are basics: Drain gas when not in use. Keep adjusted.
Learn how to sharpen with simply a file, no fancy devices, and that
includes electric sharpeners. Get a stump clamp, learn how to use it,
and you will be able to keep it sharp quickly.

If you want a saw that will start right up, Stihl or Husky is your
ticket, and take those precautions. Nothing like going out there,
adding a little fresh gas, and getting the job done, and not jacking
with it every time you want to use it. My 345 came in a package deal
for around $250. The $460 will be about $400, but we will be doing
heavier work. We fell trees up to 18" diameter, and may cut four cords
a day.

You get what you pay for. Buy a good one, and take care of it right.

Ignore all the tales of Poulans and Macs that have lasted decades. I'm
sure there are some Pintos and Vegas still on the road, too. But if you
want something reliable that just runs, and you don't spend a lot of
time cussing at, Stihl or Husky.

Get an air gun, and clean it good after a good use so the pitch doesn't
harden in the working parts. Put it away clean, and it's ready to go
next time you need it. Put it away gummy, and the gum will set, or the
gas will turn to varnish, and you will have fun getting it going
properly next time.

Just MHO from ten years of jacking with these things.

You get what you pay for, and anything less than Stihl or Husky is junk.
The cost difference between them is not that great when you are
talking of a quality tool.

Steve

SteveB wrote:

I cut about 12 cords a year. My pardner just bought the Husky 460
with a 24" bar. I have a Husky 435 with a 16" bar. I will be
getting the identical Husky, or a Stihl, (I think 391) with the 24"
bar.
Point is, buy quality and cry only once. Stihl or Husky will do the
work. Both are serviceable, with parts easily available.

Main things are basics: Drain gas when not in use. Keep adjusted.
Learn how to sharpen with simply a file, no fancy devices, and that
includes electric sharpeners. Get a stump clamp, learn how to use it,
and you will be able to keep it sharp quickly.

If you want a saw that will start right up, Stihl or Husky is your
ticket, and take those precautions. Nothing like going out there,
adding a little fresh gas, and getting the job done, and not jacking
with it every time you want to use it. My 345 came in a package deal
for around $250. The $460 will be about $400, but we will be doing
heavier work. We fell trees up to 18" diameter, and may cut four
cords a day.

You get what you pay for. Buy a good one, and take care of it right.

Ignore all the tales of Poulans and Macs that have lasted decades. I'm
sure there are some Pintos and Vegas still on the road, too. But
if you want something reliable that just runs, and you don't spend a
lot of time cussing at, Stihl or Husky.

Get an air gun, and clean it good after a good use so the pitch
doesn't harden in the working parts. Put it away clean, and it's
ready to go next time you need it. Put it away gummy, and the gum
will set, or the gas will turn to varnish, and you will have fun
getting it going properly next time.

Just MHO from ten years of jacking with these things.

You get what you pay for, and anything less than Stihl or Husky is
junk. The cost difference between them is not that great when you are
talking of a quality tool.


Well spoken sir! In particular, your closing comment. Nothing more to say.
(Except that real men buy Stihl...)

--

-Mike-

On 2/23/2014 2:19 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 2/23/2014 2:52 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
I have infrequent need for a chainsaw and have a little McCullough
electric that does OK. There are a couple of trees down in the back
too remote for the electric and I'd like to have a gas saw to take
advantage of found logs or limbs.

Since my use is infrequent, I don't want to invest too much. CL
frequently has Poulans available. Here's an example:
http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/4346181306.html

Any thoughts?

Larry


That is because owners of Stihl and Husky don't sell them. Poulan
owners are giving up or upgrading to Stihl.

Sorry Ed didn't mean to send this to you.
Stupid Thunderbird changed there reply to button


Exactly I wouldn't sell my Stihl for anything.
Buy a Stihl and you won't have a need for any other saw.
I guarantee it.

I have my father-in-laws old Stihl and it is still a pretty good saw.
Of course it is over 20 years old.
So we purchased a new one about 5 years ago and never looked back.
I use it for firewood so it has to be a good saw and after 2 craftsman's
that didn't last more than 2 years we decided we needed a good saw if we
were going to cut our own firewood.
So trust me buy a Stihl as there the only company that isn't owned by a
congolermate like all the rest of the chainsaw companies out there.
Go look at Poulan, Craftsman, Husqvarna, etc and tell me they don't look
the same, that is because there all made by the same company now and
they all suck.

Husqvarna was the most recent sell out to the conglomerate.

Buy a Stihl you won't be sorry.



--
All the Best
Dale Miller
Tennessee
ASP since February 2005

Registered Linux User: #317401
Linux since June 2003
Registered Ubuntu User #26423




(cut the spam to reply)


VOTE TO REBUILD!
www.twintowersalliance.com
__

On 23 Feb 2014 in rec.woodworking, Mike Marlow wrote:

Dave Balderstone wrote:

I've got a couple of Jonsereds. Reliable, sturdy, not terribly
expensive.

They've always been good saws but you don't find dealers around much
anymore. Or - shops to repair them.

Tractor Supply carries them in the US:

http://www.tractorsupply.com/content..._jonsered.html

I don't know about repair, though.

--
Joe Makowiec
http://makowiec.org/
Email: http://makowiec.org/contact/?Joe
Usenet Improvement Project: http://twovoyagers.com/improve-usenet.org/

On Sun, 23 Feb 2014 22:21:41 -0600, Dale Miller
wrote:




Sorry Ed didn't mean to send this to you.
Stupid Thunderbird changed there reply to button

No harm done.




Husqvarna was the most recent sell out to the conglomerate.

Buy a Stihl you won't be sorry.

Sad to hear that. You can be sure everything will be cheapened up and
they will ride the good reputation of the past as long as possible.

In article , Mike Marlow
wrote:

They've always been good saws but you don't find dealers around much
anymore. Or - shops to repair them.

Not too difficult to find up here in Western Canuckistan.

--
³Youth ages, immaturity is outgrown, ignorance can be educated, and drunkenness
sobered, but stupid lasts forever.² -- Aristophanes

I use an Echo 14" for a rough and ready all around chain saw.
House demolition to light tree falling.
Brush work, carving.......
Lightweight, inexpensive, one hand operation.
A sharp chain is is important of course....Good fuel mix a must, little
grease gun for bearing.....
Saw cover for chain.....keep air filter clean......
And a chain file and handy small guide.....easy to keep prepped.

On the larger jobs, I use a Husqavarna. High powered, fast, and
dangerous.....
Not a home owners model either....They make 2 quality types.....
professional that tree fallers use.
Good cutting.
john

"Gramps' shop" wrote in message
...

I have infrequent need for a chainsaw and have a little McCullough electric
that does OK. There are a couple of trees down in the back too remote for
the electric and I'd like to have a gas saw to take advantage of found logs
or limbs.

Since my use is infrequent, I don't want to invest too much. CL frequently
has Poulans available. Here's an example:
http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/4346181306.html

Any thoughts?

Larry

I would vote for Stihl also. I like to purchase 100% gasoline...not anything with an ounce of ethanol in it. Others have good luck with Stabil or like additives. As posters above point out...drain the gas if used infrequently. I drain gas tanks on 2 stoke devices I can easily flip over...large 4 strokes like mowers or tillers I put a cut off valve in the gas line and run them until they die from lack of fuel. Purists may point out starving an engine struggling to run is lean/harmful...no problems so far. All start on first pull with the addition of fresh fuel next time used.

On 2/23/2014 9:05 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Dave Balderstone wrote:
In article ,
Gramps' shop wrote:

I have infrequent need for a chainsaw and have a little McCullough
electric that does OK. There are a couple of trees down in the back
too remote for the electric and I'd like to have a gas saw to take
advantage of found logs or limbs.

Since my use is infrequent, I don't want to invest too much. CL
frequently has Poulans available. Here's an example:
http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/4346181306.html

Any thoughts?

Larry

I've got a couple of Jonsereds. Reliable, sturdy, not terribly
expensive.

They've always been good saws but you don't find dealers around much
anymore. Or - shops to repair them.

Tractor supply sells Jonsereds, but they don't offer service.

Buy a Stihl.

--
Jeff

jloomis wrote:

I use an Echo 14" for a rough and ready all around chain saw.
House demolition to light tree falling.
Brush work, carving.......

For the VERY occasional homeowner use, I agree that Echo is a good buy.
Pick it up at a big box store. It will be far better quality than any other
offerings they have. But - it's an occasional use saw. Just keep that in
mind and all should be well.


Lightweight, inexpensive, one hand operation.

Only if it is top mounted grip. To use any traditional grip chainsaw in a
one handed manner is nothing short of stupidity. There is no control over
the bar in this configuration.


A sharp chain is is important of course....Good fuel mix a must,
little grease gun for bearing.....
Saw cover for chain.....keep air filter clean......
And a chain file and handy small guide.....easy to keep prepped.

Sharp chain - the number one qualifier for any chainsaw discussion. Too
many occasional users never learn how to sharpen a chain, how to recognize
when it needs sharpening, et. al. It takes 5 minutes to learn how to do it
properly from someone who knows, does not even require a guide, and only a
couple of oops' before you're really pretty good at being able to keep a
chain sharp enough to do good work. But - for some reason, this escapes
most people.


On the larger jobs, I use a Husqavarna. High powered, fast, and
dangerous.....

Such a shame... A Stihl would make you so much happier...


Not a home owners model either....They make 2 quality types.....
professional that tree fallers use.


Except for the very occasional user, I so agree with you! For someone who
really wants to use a chainsaw - there is no such thing as a "homeowner"
version. Get over it. Accept it. Quit arguing/thinking about it. Just
buy a good saw. It won't even cost much more than the junk that homeowners
think they're getting a good deal on. Spend the extra $50-$100 and get a
saw ferchristsakes...

Did I say that right?

--

-Mike-

Gramps, I bought a Poulan around six or seven years ago, from a local
hardware store/lumberyard because I thought that they would stand behind
it if it gave me trouble. Which it did, right away. I could never get it
working right, and neither could they. Took me a month to get my money
back from them. So as far as I'm concerned, Poulan chain saws aren't worth
a damn, and neither is that hardware store/lumberyard.

I've got a medium-size Stihl now and am happy with it. The local tree guys
tend to use Husqvarnas, but they say that they eat starter ropes. On the
other hand, they start them a dozen times a day, and I start mine a dozen
times a year.

Tom

Tom, I have to agree with you on all counts.
Except for Poulan. I'm in UK and have never heard of this make. I've used
Stihl chainsaws for 35 years. My oldest one, a really useful 009, died
yesterday. It has been on its last legs for some while but I will miss it
nevertheless. Stihls have served me very well over the years and I look
after my 4 saws. I'm somewhere in between a hobbyist and a pro. The wood
burner takes some feeding and I have a fair bit of timber to attend to.
Last week there were some tree surgeons working locally on a large weeping
willow that had toppled following high winds and flooding. About 100ft high.
Blocked a stream and a lane. Too big for me at my age and these guys came
with a 130T capacity crane to assist!
I got talking to one of the guys. He was using a Husqvarna with a 48" bar.
He told me that he had stopped using Stihl as they, in his words, 'lost the
plot some years ago when they started concentrating on saws for hobbyists'.
Husqvarna have taken on the mantle and now produce excellent saws for both
pro's and hobbyists. I think this a bit of a shame as Stihl led the market
for years, but times change. Husqvarna now lead the field in pro saws
through innovation.
I don't think I'll ever need a new saw, if otherwise I will certainly look
at what Husqvarna might have to offer.
Good luck.
Nick.

Dave Balderstone wrote:
In article , Mike Marlow
wrote:

They've always been good saws but you don't find dealers around much
anymore. Or - shops to repair them.

Not too difficult to find up here in Western Canuckistan.

Around here it's mostly Tractor Supply. I don't know if those are models
that are spec'd for TS, or if they are full blown John's. Either way, the
selection seems to be limited to the smaller models. Certainly not what one
used to expect to see in their available lineup.

--

-Mike-

woodchucker wrote:
On 2/23/2014 9:05 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Dave Balderstone wrote:
In article ,
Gramps' shop wrote:

I have infrequent need for a chainsaw and have a little McCullough
electric that does OK. There are a couple of trees down in the
back too remote for the electric and I'd like to have a gas saw to
take advantage of found logs or limbs.

Since my use is infrequent, I don't want to invest too much. CL
frequently has Poulans available. Here's an example:
http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/4346181306.html

Any thoughts?

Larry

I've got a couple of Jonsereds. Reliable, sturdy, not terribly
expensive.

They've always been good saws but you don't find dealers around much
anymore. Or - shops to repair them.

Tractor supply sells Jonsereds, but they don't offer service.

Buy a Stihl.

Correct!

--

-Mike-

Nick wrote:

Tom, I have to agree with you on all counts.
Except for Poulan. I'm in UK and have never heard of this make. I've
used Stihl chainsaws for 35 years. My oldest one, a really useful
009, died yesterday. It has been on its last legs for some while but
I will miss it nevertheless. Stihls have served me very well over the
years and I look after my 4 saws. I'm somewhere in between a hobbyist
and a pro. The wood burner takes some feeding and I have a fair bit
of timber to attend to. Last week there were some tree surgeons
working locally on a large weeping willow that had toppled following
high winds and flooding. About 100ft high. Blocked a stream and a
lane. Too big for me at my age and these guys came with a 130T
capacity crane to assist! I got talking to one of the guys. He was using a
Husqvarna with a 48"
bar. He told me that he had stopped using Stihl as they, in his
words, 'lost the plot some years ago when they started concentrating
on saws for hobbyists'. Husqvarna have taken on the mantle and now
produce excellent saws for both pro's and hobbyists. I think this a
bit of a shame as Stihl led the market for years, but times change.
Husqvarna now lead the field in pro saws through innovation.
I don't think I'll ever need a new saw, if otherwise I will certainly
look at what Husqvarna might have to offer.
Good luck.
Nick.

I think that Husky (prior to the sell out), was a viable competitor to
Stihl. I am a Stihl guy and there are plenty of Husky guys out there.
Never really did see where one was really better than the other. Both great
saws. I would though, strenuously disagree with your tree guy. Don't know
what he's smoking, but to this day Stihl still makes some of the best pro
model saws available and that is proven by the number of pros that still use
them. I think he was just talking ****. Even their homeowner line is far
better than competing products. Still Stihl quality. Not pro quality, but
way better than typical homeowner quality junk that's out there in the
market. My thoughts on the quality of Stihl are not just based on my
preference for that saw but are hugely influenced by my local dealer who
sells both Husky and Stihl, and repairs everything out there. Talk to one
of those guys - not the tree guy who really does not know.

--

-Mike-

Talk to one of those guys - not the tree guy who really does not know.

Well, Mike, I'd like to congratulate you on winning the Olympic gold medal
for the broad jump to a conclusion, about my tree guys (let's take a minute
for the applause to die down). These guys are pros - qualified arborists who
have been in the business for two generations that I know about. They do
this every day, and they like their Huskys, and who am I, or you for that
matter, to tell them otherwise.

Come to think of it, I don't know anything about your qualifications,
either. Any special reason why I should listen to your opinion in preference
to theirs?

Tom

Tom Dacon wrote:
Talk to one of those guys - not the tree guy who really does not
know.

Well, Mike, I'd like to congratulate you on winning the Olympic gold
medal for the broad jump to a conclusion, about my tree guys (let's
take a minute for the applause to die down). These guys are pros -
qualified arborists who have been in the business for two generations
that I know about. They do this every day, and they like their
Huskys, and who am I, or you for that matter, to tell them otherwise.

Well - as an appropriate response - **** you and your white horse. Did you
even read what I read? Apparently not and so we'll just let it die there.
You should make yourself very comfortable in what you tree guy tells you.
Good to go...

Broad jumping to a conclusionj? You really cannot read and comprehend - can
you? Maybe you should make another run at it. Just as many of your "pros -
qualified arborists who have been in the business for two generations" favor
Stihl. But don't let that little thing bother you at all. Just continue to
ignore the content of what was really said. And after that - go buy
whatever you think you need.


Come to think of it, I don't know anything about your qualifications,
either. Any special reason why I should listen to your opinion in
preference to theirs?


You might just want to look at the advice that was offered. Or not. I
don't really care. As far as I am concerned - with your attitude - you can
go sit on it, and buy what ever you want. I really don't care.

--

-Mike-

"Mike Marlow" writes:
Tom Dacon wrote:
Talk to one of those guys - not the tree guy who really does not
know.

Well, Mike, I'd like to congratulate you on winning the Olympic gold
medal for the broad jump to a conclusion, about my tree guys (let's
take a minute for the applause to die down). These guys are pros -
qualified arborists who have been in the business for two generations
that I know about. They do this every day, and they like their
Huskys, and who am I, or you for that matter, to tell them otherwise.

Well - as an appropriate response - **** you and your white horse. Did you
even read what I read? Apparently not and so we'll just let it die there.
You should make yourself very comfortable in what you tree guy tells you.
Good to go...

Way to drive another rational soul from the group. Good job mike.

"Mike Marlow" wrote in
:

*snip*

Sharp chain - the number one qualifier for any chainsaw discussion.
Too many occasional users never learn how to sharpen a chain, how to
recognize when it needs sharpening, et. al. It takes 5 minutes to
learn how to do it properly from someone who knows, does not even
require a guide, and only a couple of oops' before you're really
pretty good at being able to keep a chain sharp enough to do good
work. But - for some reason, this escapes most people.

*snip*

I've seen devices that are supposed to "sharpen" a chain that mount on
the saw and you run the chain through it. Do they actually work? Or are
they like most "sharpeners" out there that take a dull edge and gives you
something that actually cuts (but not well) or reshape the edge like a
hone?

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

Puckdropper wrote:
"Mike Marlow" wrote in
:

*snip*

Sharp chain - the number one qualifier for any chainsaw discussion.
Too many occasional users never learn how to sharpen a chain, how to
recognize when it needs sharpening, et. al. It takes 5 minutes to
learn how to do it properly from someone who knows, does not even
require a guide, and only a couple of oops' before you're really
pretty good at being able to keep a chain sharp enough to do good
work. But - for some reason, this escapes most people.

*snip*

I've seen devices that are supposed to "sharpen" a chain that mount on
the saw and you run the chain through it. Do they actually work? Or
are they like most "sharpeners" out there that take a dull edge and
gives you something that actually cuts (but not well) or reshape the
edge like a hone?


Most of those work well in that they guide you to hold the proper angle.
You can learn to do that yourself very easily without a guide, but the
guides do indeed work in that regard. You don't run the chain through it
though. You can't run a chain through any sharpening device. You still
have to apply the sharpening to the cutter. That's usually with a file.
And yes - you can indeed get the chain back to factory spec by sharpening
it - either with a guide or without one. Forget the hone - you don't have
to get all woodworker anal retentive when sharpening a chainsaw chain - or
even woodworking tools for that matter...

--

-Mike-

Scott Lurndal wrote:
"Mike Marlow" writes:
Tom Dacon wrote:
Talk to one of those guys - not the tree guy who really does not
know.

Well, Mike, I'd like to congratulate you on winning the Olympic gold
medal for the broad jump to a conclusion, about my tree guys (let's
take a minute for the applause to die down). These guys are pros -
qualified arborists who have been in the business for two
generations that I know about. They do this every day, and they
like their Huskys, and who am I, or you for that matter, to tell
them otherwise.

Well - as an appropriate response - **** you and your white horse.
Did you even read what I read? Apparently not and so we'll just let
it die there. You should make yourself very comfortable in what you
tree guy tells you. Good to go...

Way to drive another rational soul from the group. Good job mike.\

Another rationaly soul? Perhaps you did not read his opening statement? Or
my previous response which solicited his reply above? You and your white
horse also.

--

-Mike-

"Mike Marlow" wrote in
:

Puckdropper wrote:

I've seen devices that are supposed to "sharpen" a chain that mount
on the saw and you run the chain through it. Do they actually work?
Or are they like most "sharpeners" out there that take a dull edge
and gives you something that actually cuts (but not well) or reshape
the edge like a hone?


Most of those work well in that they guide you to hold the proper
angle. You can learn to do that yourself very easily without a guide,
but the guides do indeed work in that regard. You don't run the chain
through it though. You can't run a chain through any sharpening
device. You still have to apply the sharpening to the cutter. That's
usually with a file. And yes - you can indeed get the chain back to
factory spec by sharpening it - either with a guide or without one.
Forget the hone - you don't have to get all woodworker anal retentive
when sharpening a chainsaw chain - or even woodworking tools for that
matter...


Here's what I was thinking about:
http://powersharp.com/default_NoFlash.asp#

I thought there was also a version built into the saw. Looking at the
website, though, it looks like one of those products that's a good idea
but restricted to special products only offered by one company.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

Puckdropper wrote:


Here's what I was thinking about:
http://powersharp.com/default_NoFlash.asp#

I thought there was also a version built into the saw. Looking at the
website, though, it looks like one of those products that's a good
idea but restricted to special products only offered by one company.

Puckdropper

Please,,. don't waste your money, There is no wa you can properly sharpen a
chain in the way they describe. No matter - it only takes minutes to do it
the right way without getting scammmed by this kind of crap. Go to a local
chainsaw repair shop and have them show you how to do it. It will be so
worth your time that you will be posting comments about it. A simple round
file of the right size and a couple of strokes, and you can have a perfect;u
sharpened chain. Really... Yoi can!

--

-Mike-

On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 11:07:55 -0800, "Tom Dacon"
wrote:

Talk to one of those guys - not the tree guy who really does not know.

Well, Mike, I'd like to congratulate you on winning the Olympic gold medal
for the broad jump to a conclusion, about my tree guys (let's take a minute
for the applause to die down). These guys are pros - qualified arborists who
have been in the business for two generations that I know about. They do
this every day, and they like their Huskys, and who am I, or you for that
matter, to tell them otherwise.

Come to think of it, I don't know anything about your qualifications,
either. Any special reason why I should listen to your opinion in preference
to theirs?

Tom
You could argue this point into the ground. I'm in Duvall,Wa where
there is a strong Stihl dealer which makes a big diffence. I'm still
running an o32 with a skip tooth chain on 24" bar after over 30 years,
I do some work for an aroboris and he runs all Stihl, again I think,
it's Bill at Carquest that is responsible. Ive dropped a tool off for
repair and been called to get it by the time I got home. We all get
to be a dumb ass sometimes. My point is a lot of times the best tool
is the one with the best support where you are.

MikeM

"Tom Dacon" wrote:
Talk to one of those guys - not the tree guy who really does not know.

Well, Mike, I'd like to congratulate you on winning the Olympic gold
medal for the broad jump to a conclusion, about my tree guys (let's take
a minute for the applause to die down). These guys are pros - qualified
arborists who have been in the business for two generations that I know
about. They do this every day, and they like their Huskys, and who am I,
or you for that matter, to tell them otherwise.

Come to think of it, I don't know anything about your qualifications,
either. Any special reason why I should listen to your opinion in preference to theirs?

Tom

"Tom Dacon" wrote:
Talk to one of those guys - not the tree guy who really does not know.

Well, Mike, I'd like to congratulate you on winning the Olympic gold
medal for the broad jump to a conclusion, about my tree guys (let's take
a minute for the applause to die down). These guys are pros - qualified
arborists who have been in the business for two generations that I know
about. They do this every day, and they like their Huskys, and who am I,
or you for that matter, to tell them otherwise.

Come to think of it, I don't know anything about your qualifications,
either. Any special reason why I should listen to your opinion in preference to theirs?

Tom

There is a possibility that a long time tree guy that has been unsung a
particular well known brand just may not know what might be best for an
occasional user. I own the top of the line SawStop TS. I would not assume
that the 120 volt contractors model would not serve an occasional user
well. I own several Festool power tools that I use on every job and again
would not assume that my experience would qualify me to recommend a
particular tool for an occasional user.

What might be a best but for a novice may not have any appeal at all to the
pro.

Festool makes and sells a $600 drill kit which I own and use. They also
produce a model for about half that price aimed at the budget minded user.
I'm not about to say that the cheaper model down grades the brand.

Being a pro in a particular field does not made you an expert on every
piece of equipment within a product line that you may or may not use.

"Mike Marlow" wrote in message ...

jloomis wrote:

I use an Echo 14" for a rough and ready all around chain saw.
House demolition to light tree falling.
Brush work, carving.......

For the VERY occasional homeowner use, I agree that Echo is a good buy.
Pick it up at a big box store. It will be far better quality than any other
offerings they have. But - it's an occasional use saw. Just keep that in
mind and all should be well.


I use the echo all the time in the brush and for tearing out remodel work,
taking decks out, etc.
It is a good all around home/bus. saw.


Lightweight, inexpensive, one hand operation.

Only if it is top mounted grip. To use any traditional grip chainsaw in a
one handed manner is nothing short of stupidity. There is no control over
the bar in this configuration.

Many fallers use these for small branch removal.....and one handed....
Yes, experience helps, and yes, one has to be very cautious of kick back.
2 hands are always better....always.


A sharp chain is is important of course....Good fuel mix a must,
little grease gun for bearing.....
Saw cover for chain.....keep air filter clean......
And a chain file and handy small guide.....easy to keep prepped.

Sharp chain - the number one qualifier for any chainsaw discussion. Too
many occasional users never learn how to sharpen a chain, how to recognize
when it needs sharpening, et. al. It takes 5 minutes to learn how to do it
properly from someone who knows, does not even require a guide, and only a
couple of oops' before you're really pretty good at being able to keep a
chain sharp enough to do good work. But - for some reason, this escapes
most people.


On the larger jobs, I use a Husqavarna. High powered, fast, and
dangerous.....

Such a shame... A Stihl would make you so much happier...
Not sure why Stihl would make me happier....
I guess it is like a football team....
]One always prefers their brand?



Not a home owners model either....They make 2 quality types.....
professional that tree fallers use.


Except for the very occasional user, I so agree with you! For someone who
really wants to use a chainsaw - there is no such thing as a "homeowner"
version.


Yes, there is.....
At the local chain saw shop they have differing versions priced that way....
piston size,quality......
tree fallers always get the pro.....
Like a John Deere tractor compared to a Case.....



Get over it. Accept it. Quit arguing/thinking about it. Just
buy a good saw. It won't even cost much more than the junk that homeowners
think they're getting a good deal on. Spend the extra $50-$100 and get a
saw ferchristsakes...

Did I say that right?

--

-Mike-

forget it.....
a file and a saw guide......
john

"Puckdropper" wrote in message
eb.com...

"Mike Marlow" wrote in
:

*snip*

Sharp chain - the number one qualifier for any chainsaw discussion.
Too many occasional users never learn how to sharpen a chain, how to
recognize when it needs sharpening, et. al. It takes 5 minutes to
learn how to do it properly from someone who knows, does not even
require a guide, and only a couple of oops' before you're really
pretty good at being able to keep a chain sharp enough to do good
work. But - for some reason, this escapes most people.

*snip*

I've seen devices that are supposed to "sharpen" a chain that mount on
the saw and you run the chain through it. Do they actually work? Or are
they like most "sharpeners" out there that take a dull edge and gives you
something that actually cuts (but not well) or reshape the edge like a
hone?

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

On 2/24/2014 11:20 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Puckdropper wrote:


Here's what I was thinking about:
http://powersharp.com/default_NoFlash.asp#

I thought there was also a version built into the saw. Looking at the
website, though, it looks like one of those products that's a good
idea but restricted to special products only offered by one company.

Puckdropper

Please,,. don't waste your money, There is no wa you can properly sharpen a
chain in the way they describe. No matter - it only takes minutes to do it
the right way without getting scammmed by this kind of crap. Go to a local
chainsaw repair shop and have them show you how to do it. It will be so
worth your time that you will be posting comments about it. A simple round
file of the right size and a couple of strokes, and you can have a perfect;u
sharpened chain. Really... Yoi can!


Yes but after a while you will need to take a flat file and reshape the
tooth. The round part is only part of the sharpening, the flats are
important too.

But like everyone says it's really not hard to do free hand.


--
Jeff

On 2/25/2014 7:19 AM, jloomis wrote:
forget it.....
a file and a saw guide......
john

"Puckdropper" wrote in message
eb.com...

"Mike Marlow" wrote in
:

*snip*

Sharp chain - the number one qualifier for any chainsaw discussion.
Too many occasional users never learn how to sharpen a chain, how to
recognize when it needs sharpening, et. al. It takes 5 minutes to
learn how to do it properly from someone who knows, does not even
require a guide, and only a couple of oops' before you're really
pretty good at being able to keep a chain sharp enough to do good
work. But - for some reason, this escapes most people.

*snip*

I've seen devices that are supposed to "sharpen" a chain that mount on
the saw and you run the chain through it. Do they actually work? Or are
they like most "sharpeners" out there that take a dull edge and gives you
something that actually cuts (but not well) or reshape the edge like a
hone?

Puckdropper

One of the biggest problems with end users in chainsaws is that they
overthink the problem. I have a Crapsman chainsaw sharpener that has
more adapter dials than a diamond cutting wheel. It takes ten minutes
to just get the thing mounted, and that is if you are totally aware on
how it works.

Most chains have an indicator groove that show which angle to hold the
file at when filing. Any book will tell you which direction to stroke.
Any book will have instructions on how to file down the nubbins on the
chain.

Results: If you have a vise or a stump clamp, you can set up your saw,
and sharpen it very well in about five minutes. It's all about the
angles, and there are only a couple. The devices they sell with motors
take off twice the amount of metal needed to sharpen a saw, and most
people take off more than that, or take it off in the wrong place.

A simple round chainsaw file and a vise or stump clamp is all one needs
to service a saw. What do you see those professional guys carrying
around in their pocket? Not a bunch of contraptions. Just a file, and
maybe a stump clamp. But minimalist gear, and they know how to use it.

Get the right gear, and learn how to use it. Get rid of the automatic
gadgets, and learn how to do it right.

Steve

"Leon" wrote in message
...

Being a pro in a particular field does not made you an expert on every
piece of equipment within a product line that you may or may not use.

Yeah, I get that, Leon. In my original response to Gramps, I just mentioned
that the local arborists are Husky users, merely as a point of comparison to
offer a different viewpoint from mine as a satisfied Stihl user. Trying to
be even-handed. If Stihl vs. Husky is a religious war in some quarters, I
have no intention of dying in a ditch over it. In fact, the reason I've got
a Stihl is that the nearest good chainsaw repair place was at the time a
Stihl dealer; if it had been a Husky dealer I'd no doubt own a Husky
instead.

I love the SawStop - I'm half-owner of a fairly new one that I share with a
boat builder friend, that we purchased to replace a Delta cabinet saw that
took off one of his index fingers. I'm on the Festool bandwagon too, with a
CXS drill, a jigsaw, and a random orbital sander - hope this admission
doesn't bring the Festool haters out of the woodwork, too.

One of the saws that my tree guys use is a very small and light Husky
limbing chainsaw with about a 14-inch bar, that they use one-handed when
they're up a tree. I lust after it, but it's a professional tool and priced
to suit - about $600 or so - and there's no way that I could justify it for
the occasional use I'd make of it.

Tom

On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 23:20:41 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:

Puckdropper wrote:


Here's what I was thinking about:
http://powersharp.com/default_NoFlash.asp#

I thought there was also a version built into the saw. Looking at the
website, though, it looks like one of those products that's a good
idea but restricted to special products only offered by one company.

Puckdropper

Please,,. don't waste your money, There is no wa you can properly sharpen a
chain in the way they describe. No matter - it only takes minutes to do it
the right way without getting scammmed by this kind of crap. Go to a local
chainsaw repair shop and have them show you how to do it. It will be so
worth your time that you will be posting comments about it. A simple round
file of the right size and a couple of strokes, and you can have a perfect;u
sharpened chain. Really... Yoi can!

Have an 12V electric file takes me about ten minutes to do the 18" and
14" saws, about twenty minutes with a regular file. Also remember to
mark the starting tooth otherwise it takes all day.

Mark

On 2/25/2014 12:56 PM, Tom Dacon wrote:


"Leon" wrote in message
...

Being a pro in a particular field does not made you an expert on every
piece of equipment within a product line that you may or may not use.

Yeah, I get that, Leon. In my original response to Gramps, I just
mentioned that the local arborists are Husky users, merely as a point of
comparison to offer a different viewpoint from mine as a satisfied Stihl
user. Trying to be even-handed. If Stihl vs. Husky is a religious war in
some quarters, I have no intention of dying in a ditch over it. In fact,
the reason I've got a Stihl is that the nearest good chainsaw repair
place was at the time a Stihl dealer; if it had been a Husky dealer I'd
no doubt own a Husky instead.

I love the SawStop - I'm half-owner of a fairly new one that I share
with a boat builder friend, that we purchased to replace a Delta cabinet
saw that took off one of his index fingers. I'm on the Festool bandwagon
too, with a CXS drill, a jigsaw, and a random orbital sander - hope this
admission doesn't bring the Festool haters out of the woodwork, too.


Good on you Tom. ;~)



One of the saws that my tree guys use is a very small and light Husky
limbing chainsaw with about a 14-inch bar, that they use one-handed when
they're up a tree. I lust after it, but it's a professional tool and
priced to suit - about $600 or so - and there's no way that I could
justify it for the occasional use I'd make of it.

Tom


I continue to use an electric Craftsman that I bought about 20 years
ago. ;~)