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#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Chainsaw recommendations
I have infrequent need for a chainsaw and have a little McCullough electric that does OK. There are a couple of trees down in the back too remote for the electric and I'd like to have a gas saw to take advantage of found logs or limbs.
Since my use is infrequent, I don't want to invest too much. CL frequently has Poulans available. Here's an example: http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/4346181306.html Any thoughts? Larry |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Chainsaw recommendations
"Gramps' shop" wrote in message
... I have infrequent need for a chainsaw and have a little McCullough electric that does OK. There are a couple of trees down in the back too remote for the electric and I'd like to have a gas saw to take advantage of found logs or limbs. Since my use is infrequent, I don't want to invest too much. CL frequently has Poulans available. Here's an example: http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/4346181306.html Any thoughts? Gramps, I bought a Poulan around six or seven years ago, from a local hardware store/lumberyard because I thought that they would stand behind it if it gave me trouble. Which it did, right away. I could never get it working right, and neither could they. Took me a month to get my money back from them. So as far as I'm concerned, Poulan chain saws aren't worth a damn, and neither is that hardware store/lumberyard. I've got a medium-size Stihl now and am happy with it. The local tree guys tend to use Husqvarnas, but they say that they eat starter ropes. On the other hand, they start them a dozen times a day, and I start mine a dozen times a year. Tom |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Chainsaw recommendations
Gramps, I bought a Poulan around six or seven years ago, from a local
hardware store/lumberyard because I thought that they would stand behind it if it gave me trouble. Which it did, right away. I could never get it working right, and neither could they. Took me a month to get my money back from them. So as far as I'm concerned, Poulan chain saws aren't worth a damn, and neither is that hardware store/lumberyard. I've got a medium-size Stihl now and am happy with it. The local tree guys tend to use Husqvarnas, but they say that they eat starter ropes. On the other hand, they start them a dozen times a day, and I start mine a dozen times a year. Tom Tom, I have to agree with you on all counts. Except for Poulan. I'm in UK and have never heard of this make. I've used Stihl chainsaws for 35 years. My oldest one, a really useful 009, died yesterday. It has been on its last legs for some while but I will miss it nevertheless. Stihls have served me very well over the years and I look after my 4 saws. I'm somewhere in between a hobbyist and a pro. The wood burner takes some feeding and I have a fair bit of timber to attend to. Last week there were some tree surgeons working locally on a large weeping willow that had toppled following high winds and flooding. About 100ft high. Blocked a stream and a lane. Too big for me at my age and these guys came with a 130T capacity crane to assist! I got talking to one of the guys. He was using a Husqvarna with a 48" bar. He told me that he had stopped using Stihl as they, in his words, 'lost the plot some years ago when they started concentrating on saws for hobbyists'. Husqvarna have taken on the mantle and now produce excellent saws for both pro's and hobbyists. I think this a bit of a shame as Stihl led the market for years, but times change. Husqvarna now lead the field in pro saws through innovation. I don't think I'll ever need a new saw, if otherwise I will certainly look at what Husqvarna might have to offer. Good luck. Nick. |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Chainsaw recommendations
Nick wrote:
Tom, I have to agree with you on all counts. Except for Poulan. I'm in UK and have never heard of this make. I've used Stihl chainsaws for 35 years. My oldest one, a really useful 009, died yesterday. It has been on its last legs for some while but I will miss it nevertheless. Stihls have served me very well over the years and I look after my 4 saws. I'm somewhere in between a hobbyist and a pro. The wood burner takes some feeding and I have a fair bit of timber to attend to. Last week there were some tree surgeons working locally on a large weeping willow that had toppled following high winds and flooding. About 100ft high. Blocked a stream and a lane. Too big for me at my age and these guys came with a 130T capacity crane to assist! I got talking to one of the guys. He was using a Husqvarna with a 48" bar. He told me that he had stopped using Stihl as they, in his words, 'lost the plot some years ago when they started concentrating on saws for hobbyists'. Husqvarna have taken on the mantle and now produce excellent saws for both pro's and hobbyists. I think this a bit of a shame as Stihl led the market for years, but times change. Husqvarna now lead the field in pro saws through innovation. I don't think I'll ever need a new saw, if otherwise I will certainly look at what Husqvarna might have to offer. Good luck. Nick. I think that Husky (prior to the sell out), was a viable competitor to Stihl. I am a Stihl guy and there are plenty of Husky guys out there. Never really did see where one was really better than the other. Both great saws. I would though, strenuously disagree with your tree guy. Don't know what he's smoking, but to this day Stihl still makes some of the best pro model saws available and that is proven by the number of pros that still use them. I think he was just talking ****. Even their homeowner line is far better than competing products. Still Stihl quality. Not pro quality, but way better than typical homeowner quality junk that's out there in the market. My thoughts on the quality of Stihl are not just based on my preference for that saw but are hugely influenced by my local dealer who sells both Husky and Stihl, and repairs everything out there. Talk to one of those guys - not the tree guy who really does not know. -- -Mike- |
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Chainsaw recommendations
Talk to one of those guys - not the tree guy who really does not know.
Well, Mike, I'd like to congratulate you on winning the Olympic gold medal for the broad jump to a conclusion, about my tree guys (let's take a minute for the applause to die down). These guys are pros - qualified arborists who have been in the business for two generations that I know about. They do this every day, and they like their Huskys, and who am I, or you for that matter, to tell them otherwise. Come to think of it, I don't know anything about your qualifications, either. Any special reason why I should listen to your opinion in preference to theirs? Tom |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Chainsaw recommendations
Tom Dacon wrote:
Talk to one of those guys - not the tree guy who really does not know. Well, Mike, I'd like to congratulate you on winning the Olympic gold medal for the broad jump to a conclusion, about my tree guys (let's take a minute for the applause to die down). These guys are pros - qualified arborists who have been in the business for two generations that I know about. They do this every day, and they like their Huskys, and who am I, or you for that matter, to tell them otherwise. Well - as an appropriate response - **** you and your white horse. Did you even read what I read? Apparently not and so we'll just let it die there. You should make yourself very comfortable in what you tree guy tells you. Good to go... Broad jumping to a conclusionj? You really cannot read and comprehend - can you? Maybe you should make another run at it. Just as many of your "pros - qualified arborists who have been in the business for two generations" favor Stihl. But don't let that little thing bother you at all. Just continue to ignore the content of what was really said. And after that - go buy whatever you think you need. Come to think of it, I don't know anything about your qualifications, either. Any special reason why I should listen to your opinion in preference to theirs? You might just want to look at the advice that was offered. Or not. I don't really care. As far as I am concerned - with your attitude - you can go sit on it, and buy what ever you want. I really don't care. -- -Mike- |
#7
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Chainsaw recommendations
On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 11:07:55 -0800, "Tom Dacon"
wrote: Talk to one of those guys - not the tree guy who really does not know. Well, Mike, I'd like to congratulate you on winning the Olympic gold medal for the broad jump to a conclusion, about my tree guys (let's take a minute for the applause to die down). These guys are pros - qualified arborists who have been in the business for two generations that I know about. They do this every day, and they like their Huskys, and who am I, or you for that matter, to tell them otherwise. Come to think of it, I don't know anything about your qualifications, either. Any special reason why I should listen to your opinion in preference to theirs? Tom You could argue this point into the ground. I'm in Duvall,Wa where there is a strong Stihl dealer which makes a big diffence. I'm still running an o32 with a skip tooth chain on 24" bar after over 30 years, I do some work for an aroboris and he runs all Stihl, again I think, it's Bill at Carquest that is responsible. Ive dropped a tool off for repair and been called to get it by the time I got home. We all get to be a dumb ass sometimes. My point is a lot of times the best tool is the one with the best support where you are. MikeM |
#8
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Chainsaw recommendations
"Tom Dacon" wrote:
Talk to one of those guys - not the tree guy who really does not know. Well, Mike, I'd like to congratulate you on winning the Olympic gold medal for the broad jump to a conclusion, about my tree guys (let's take a minute for the applause to die down). These guys are pros - qualified arborists who have been in the business for two generations that I know about. They do this every day, and they like their Huskys, and who am I, or you for that matter, to tell them otherwise. Come to think of it, I don't know anything about your qualifications, either. Any special reason why I should listen to your opinion in preference to theirs? Tom "Tom Dacon" wrote: Talk to one of those guys - not the tree guy who really does not know. Well, Mike, I'd like to congratulate you on winning the Olympic gold medal for the broad jump to a conclusion, about my tree guys (let's take a minute for the applause to die down). These guys are pros - qualified arborists who have been in the business for two generations that I know about. They do this every day, and they like their Huskys, and who am I, or you for that matter, to tell them otherwise. Come to think of it, I don't know anything about your qualifications, either. Any special reason why I should listen to your opinion in preference to theirs? Tom There is a possibility that a long time tree guy that has been unsung a particular well known brand just may not know what might be best for an occasional user. I own the top of the line SawStop TS. I would not assume that the 120 volt contractors model would not serve an occasional user well. I own several Festool power tools that I use on every job and again would not assume that my experience would qualify me to recommend a particular tool for an occasional user. What might be a best but for a novice may not have any appeal at all to the pro. Festool makes and sells a $600 drill kit which I own and use. They also produce a model for about half that price aimed at the budget minded user. I'm not about to say that the cheaper model down grades the brand. Being a pro in a particular field does not made you an expert on every piece of equipment within a product line that you may or may not use. |
#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Chainsaw recommendations
Yep - I vote the same. My 25 year old Husky 20" 50 is still running.
Need rings I bet - leaks a bit of oil in the piston. But then it has been really used and is a hand to use at 67 now. I love my arbor Stihl a lightweight baby that works like a horse. But use both. This new gas is crap for a lot of tools. Be sure to buy the treatment to keep the water out - water and gas destroys light metals. I used to live in a Redwood forest. The woodmen who cut the various oaks, madrones and redwoods (species and sub-species) all use Stihl. They have Husky's as backups and trim work on downed trees. Martin On 2/24/2014 12:41 PM, Mike Marlow wrote: Nick wrote: Tom, I have to agree with you on all counts. Except for Poulan. I'm in UK and have never heard of this make. I've used Stihl chainsaws for 35 years. My oldest one, a really useful 009, died yesterday. It has been on its last legs for some while but I will miss it nevertheless. Stihls have served me very well over the years and I look after my 4 saws. I'm somewhere in between a hobbyist and a pro. The wood burner takes some feeding and I have a fair bit of timber to attend to. Last week there were some tree surgeons working locally on a large weeping willow that had toppled following high winds and flooding. About 100ft high. Blocked a stream and a lane. Too big for me at my age and these guys came with a 130T capacity crane to assist! I got talking to one of the guys. He was using a Husqvarna with a 48" bar. He told me that he had stopped using Stihl as they, in his words, 'lost the plot some years ago when they started concentrating on saws for hobbyists'. Husqvarna have taken on the mantle and now produce excellent saws for both pro's and hobbyists. I think this a bit of a shame as Stihl led the market for years, but times change. Husqvarna now lead the field in pro saws through innovation. I don't think I'll ever need a new saw, if otherwise I will certainly look at what Husqvarna might have to offer. Good luck. Nick. I think that Husky (prior to the sell out), was a viable competitor to Stihl. I am a Stihl guy and there are plenty of Husky guys out there. Never really did see where one was really better than the other. Both great saws. I would though, strenuously disagree with your tree guy. Don't know what he's smoking, but to this day Stihl still makes some of the best pro model saws available and that is proven by the number of pros that still use them. I think he was just talking ****. Even their homeowner line is far better than competing products. Still Stihl quality. Not pro quality, but way better than typical homeowner quality junk that's out there in the market. My thoughts on the quality of Stihl are not just based on my preference for that saw but are hugely influenced by my local dealer who sells both Husky and Stihl, and repairs everything out there. Talk to one of those guys - not the tree guy who really does not know. |
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Chainsaw recommendations
"Gramps' shop" wrote in message ... I have infrequent need for a chainsaw and have a little McCullough electric that does OK. There are a couple of trees down in the back too remote for the electric and I'd like to have a gas saw to take advantage of found logs or limbs. Since my use is infrequent, I don't want to invest too much. CL frequently has Poulans available. Here's an example: http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/4346181306.html Go to the local pawn shop, and find you an old saw with good compression, and ask them to start it up for you. I have a Poulan a bought when Huge hit in (89 I think) and I use it for mainly trimming. I guarantee I could go get it out of the shed, put fresh gas in it, and start it on the 4th or 5th pull. I don't know about the newer Poulans. As little as you sound like you use one, an old used saw sounds like what you need. -- Jim in NC --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com |
#11
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Chainsaw recommendations
Morgans wrote:
Go to the local pawn shop, and find you an old saw with good compression, and ask them to start it up for you. I have a Poulan a bought when Huge hit in (89 I think) and I use it for mainly trimming. I guarantee I could go get it out of the shed, put fresh gas in it, and start it on the 4th or 5th pull. I don't know about the newer Poulans. As little as you sound like you use one, an old used saw sounds like what you need. Those were the good old days for Poulan. Today, they are what is considered a 50 hour saw. Pure junk. For the very occassional user, it might be saw enough but if you'd plan on using it every year - bad money spent. I'm a Stihl guy through and through, so that would be my recommendation, but that's me. Rather than going the pawn shop route, I'd suggest going to a local shop that sells and maintains chainsaws. Not to a big box store or to a store that simply sells them. You want to go to the guys that actually fix them right there at their shop. They'll give you the honest scoop on what's good and what isn't but more importantly, they usually have some pretty good deals on trade-ins. Plus, you've got a place that will stand behind their saw. -- -Mike- |
#12
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Chainsaw recommendations
"Morgans" wrote in message ... "Gramps' shop" wrote in message ... I have infrequent need for a chainsaw and have a little McCullough electric that does OK. There are a couple of trees down in the back too remote for the electric and I'd like to have a gas saw to take advantage of found logs or limbs. Since my use is infrequent, I don't want to invest too much. CL frequently has Poulans available. Here's an example: http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/4346181306.html Go to the local pawn shop, and find you an old saw with good compression, and ask them to start it up for you. I have a Poulan a bought when Huge hit in (89 I think) and I use it for mainly trimming. I guarantee I could go get it out of the shed, put fresh gas in it, and start it on the 4th or 5th pull. I don't know about the newer Poulans. As little as you sound like you use one, an old used saw sounds like what you need. -- I agree, I have an old Poulan that I bought around 1980. It will take about 6 pulls of the cord to get it started as it hasn't run for about 8 years, but I am certain it will start, and then it will start on the first pull after that. I am going to clean it up and sharpen it when this cold snap is over, as I have a yard full of fallen tree limbs from the ice storm to get rid of. |
#13
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Chainsaw recommendations
EXT wrote:
I agree, I have an old Poulan that I bought around 1980. It will take about 6 pulls of the cord to get it started as it hasn't run for about 8 years, but I am certain it will start, and then it will start on the first pull after that. I am going to clean it up and sharpen it when this cold snap is over, as I have a yard full of fallen tree limbs from the ice storm to get rid of. Ahhhh... back in the day when Poulan was a competitive name. Unfortunately... not today. Really - unfortunate that another good name bit the corporate dust. -- -Mike- |
#14
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Chainsaw recommendations
On 2/23/2014 2:52 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
I have infrequent need for a chainsaw and have a little McCullough electric that does OK. There are a couple of trees down in the back too remote for the electric and I'd like to have a gas saw to take advantage of found logs or limbs. Since my use is infrequent, I don't want to invest too much. CL frequently has Poulans available. Here's an example: http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/4346181306.html Any thoughts? Larry That is because owners of Stihl and Husky don't sell them. Poulan owners are giving up or upgrading to Stihl. |
#15
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Chainsaw recommendations
On 2/23/2014 2:19 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 2/23/2014 2:52 PM, Gramps' shop wrote: I have infrequent need for a chainsaw and have a little McCullough electric that does OK. There are a couple of trees down in the back too remote for the electric and I'd like to have a gas saw to take advantage of found logs or limbs. Since my use is infrequent, I don't want to invest too much. CL frequently has Poulans available. Here's an example: http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/4346181306.html Any thoughts? Larry That is because owners of Stihl and Husky don't sell them. Poulan owners are giving up or upgrading to Stihl. Sorry Ed didn't mean to send this to you. Stupid Thunderbird changed there reply to button Exactly I wouldn't sell my Stihl for anything. Buy a Stihl and you won't have a need for any other saw. I guarantee it. I have my father-in-laws old Stihl and it is still a pretty good saw. Of course it is over 20 years old. So we purchased a new one about 5 years ago and never looked back. I use it for firewood so it has to be a good saw and after 2 craftsman's that didn't last more than 2 years we decided we needed a good saw if we were going to cut our own firewood. So trust me buy a Stihl as there the only company that isn't owned by a congolermate like all the rest of the chainsaw companies out there. Go look at Poulan, Craftsman, Husqvarna, etc and tell me they don't look the same, that is because there all made by the same company now and they all suck. Husqvarna was the most recent sell out to the conglomerate. Buy a Stihl you won't be sorry. -- All the Best Dale Miller Tennessee ASP since February 2005 Registered Linux User: #317401 Linux since June 2003 Registered Ubuntu User #26423 (cut the spam to reply) VOTE TO REBUILD! www.twintowersalliance.com __ |
#16
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Chainsaw recommendations
On Sun, 23 Feb 2014 22:21:41 -0600, Dale Miller
wrote: Sorry Ed didn't mean to send this to you. Stupid Thunderbird changed there reply to button No harm done. Husqvarna was the most recent sell out to the conglomerate. Buy a Stihl you won't be sorry. Sad to hear that. You can be sure everything will be cheapened up and they will ride the good reputation of the past as long as possible. |
#17
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Chainsaw recommendations
Gramps' shop wrote:
I have infrequent need for a chainsaw and have a little McCullough electric that does OK. There are a couple of trees down in the back too remote for the electric and I'd like to have a gas saw to take advantage of found logs or limbs. Since my use is infrequent, I don't want to invest too much. CL frequently has Poulans available. Here's an example: http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/4346181306.html Any thoughts? Larry I have two Huskys and love them for the compression relief button. Easier to pull and always start at 1-3 pulls. The reason I have two is: After 12 or 13 years I buggered up the key in the flywheel. New flywheels are about $100 so I opted to buy a new saw. Then I found a used flywheel on Ebay for $15 and bought it. So now I have a 20 incher and a 18 incher for trimming. I have had a Poulan and a Mac. Both had lightweight chains that had to be re-tensioned every 15 minutes and both had starting problems after about a year. -- GW Ross Some minds should be cultivated, others plowed under... |
#18
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Chainsaw recommendations
In article ,
Gramps' shop wrote: I have infrequent need for a chainsaw and have a little McCullough electric that does OK. There are a couple of trees down in the back too remote for the electric and I'd like to have a gas saw to take advantage of found logs or limbs. Since my use is infrequent, I don't want to invest too much. CL frequently has Poulans available. Here's an example: http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/4346181306.html Any thoughts? Larry I've got a couple of Jonsereds. Reliable, sturdy, not terribly expensive. -- ³Youth ages, immaturity is outgrown, ignorance can be educated, and drunkenness sobered, but stupid lasts forever.² -- Aristophanes |
#19
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Chainsaw recommendations
Gramps' shop wrote:
I have infrequent need for a chainsaw and have a little McCullough electric that does OK. There are a couple of trees down in the back too remote for the electric and I'd like to have a gas saw to take advantage of found logs or limbs. Since my use is infrequent, I don't want to invest too much. CL frequently has Poulans available. Here's an example: http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/4346181306.html Any thoughts? -------------------------------------------------------------------- For your infrequent use, I'd rent one. Unless I miss my guess, storage space is at a premium in your shop. Lew |
#20
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Chainsaw recommendations
Dave Balderstone wrote:
In article , Gramps' shop wrote: I have infrequent need for a chainsaw and have a little McCullough electric that does OK. There are a couple of trees down in the back too remote for the electric and I'd like to have a gas saw to take advantage of found logs or limbs. Since my use is infrequent, I don't want to invest too much. CL frequently has Poulans available. Here's an example: http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/4346181306.html Any thoughts? Larry I've got a couple of Jonsereds. Reliable, sturdy, not terribly expensive. They've always been good saws but you don't find dealers around much anymore. Or - shops to repair them. -- -Mike- |
#21
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Chainsaw recommendations
On 23 Feb 2014 in rec.woodworking, Mike Marlow wrote:
Dave Balderstone wrote: I've got a couple of Jonsereds. Reliable, sturdy, not terribly expensive. They've always been good saws but you don't find dealers around much anymore. Or - shops to repair them. Tractor Supply carries them in the US: http://www.tractorsupply.com/content..._jonsered.html I don't know about repair, though. -- Joe Makowiec http://makowiec.org/ Email: http://makowiec.org/contact/?Joe Usenet Improvement Project: http://twovoyagers.com/improve-usenet.org/ |
#22
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Chainsaw recommendations
In article , Mike Marlow
wrote: They've always been good saws but you don't find dealers around much anymore. Or - shops to repair them. Not too difficult to find up here in Western Canuckistan. -- ³Youth ages, immaturity is outgrown, ignorance can be educated, and drunkenness sobered, but stupid lasts forever.² -- Aristophanes |
#23
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Chainsaw recommendations
Dave Balderstone wrote:
In article , Mike Marlow wrote: They've always been good saws but you don't find dealers around much anymore. Or - shops to repair them. Not too difficult to find up here in Western Canuckistan. Around here it's mostly Tractor Supply. I don't know if those are models that are spec'd for TS, or if they are full blown John's. Either way, the selection seems to be limited to the smaller models. Certainly not what one used to expect to see in their available lineup. -- -Mike- |
#24
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Chainsaw recommendations
On 2/23/2014 9:05 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Dave Balderstone wrote: In article , Gramps' shop wrote: I have infrequent need for a chainsaw and have a little McCullough electric that does OK. There are a couple of trees down in the back too remote for the electric and I'd like to have a gas saw to take advantage of found logs or limbs. Since my use is infrequent, I don't want to invest too much. CL frequently has Poulans available. Here's an example: http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/4346181306.html Any thoughts? Larry I've got a couple of Jonsereds. Reliable, sturdy, not terribly expensive. They've always been good saws but you don't find dealers around much anymore. Or - shops to repair them. Tractor supply sells Jonsereds, but they don't offer service. Buy a Stihl. -- Jeff |
#25
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Chainsaw recommendations
woodchucker wrote:
On 2/23/2014 9:05 PM, Mike Marlow wrote: Dave Balderstone wrote: In article , Gramps' shop wrote: I have infrequent need for a chainsaw and have a little McCullough electric that does OK. There are a couple of trees down in the back too remote for the electric and I'd like to have a gas saw to take advantage of found logs or limbs. Since my use is infrequent, I don't want to invest too much. CL frequently has Poulans available. Here's an example: http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/4346181306.html Any thoughts? Larry I've got a couple of Jonsereds. Reliable, sturdy, not terribly expensive. They've always been good saws but you don't find dealers around much anymore. Or - shops to repair them. Tractor supply sells Jonsereds, but they don't offer service. Buy a Stihl. Correct! -- -Mike- |
#26
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Chainsaw recommendations
On 2/23/2014 12:52 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
I have infrequent need for a chainsaw and have a little McCullough electric that does OK. There are a couple of trees down in the back too remote for the electric and I'd like to have a gas saw to take advantage of found logs or limbs. Since my use is infrequent, I don't want to invest too much. CL frequently has Poulans available. Here's an example: http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/4346181306.html Any thoughts? Larry I cut about 12 cords a year. My pardner just bought the Husky 460 with a 24" bar. I have a Husky 435 with a 16" bar. I will be getting the identical Husky, or a Stihl, (I think 391) with the 24" bar. Point is, buy quality and cry only once. Stihl or Husky will do the work. Both are serviceable, with parts easily available. Main things are basics: Drain gas when not in use. Keep adjusted. Learn how to sharpen with simply a file, no fancy devices, and that includes electric sharpeners. Get a stump clamp, learn how to use it, and you will be able to keep it sharp quickly. If you want a saw that will start right up, Stihl or Husky is your ticket, and take those precautions. Nothing like going out there, adding a little fresh gas, and getting the job done, and not jacking with it every time you want to use it. My 345 came in a package deal for around $250. The $460 will be about $400, but we will be doing heavier work. We fell trees up to 18" diameter, and may cut four cords a day. You get what you pay for. Buy a good one, and take care of it right. Ignore all the tales of Poulans and Macs that have lasted decades. I'm sure there are some Pintos and Vegas still on the road, too. But if you want something reliable that just runs, and you don't spend a lot of time cussing at, Stihl or Husky. Get an air gun, and clean it good after a good use so the pitch doesn't harden in the working parts. Put it away clean, and it's ready to go next time you need it. Put it away gummy, and the gum will set, or the gas will turn to varnish, and you will have fun getting it going properly next time. Just MHO from ten years of jacking with these things. You get what you pay for, and anything less than Stihl or Husky is junk. The cost difference between them is not that great when you are talking of a quality tool. Steve |
#27
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Chainsaw recommendations
SteveB wrote:
I cut about 12 cords a year. My pardner just bought the Husky 460 with a 24" bar. I have a Husky 435 with a 16" bar. I will be getting the identical Husky, or a Stihl, (I think 391) with the 24" bar. Point is, buy quality and cry only once. Stihl or Husky will do the work. Both are serviceable, with parts easily available. Main things are basics: Drain gas when not in use. Keep adjusted. Learn how to sharpen with simply a file, no fancy devices, and that includes electric sharpeners. Get a stump clamp, learn how to use it, and you will be able to keep it sharp quickly. If you want a saw that will start right up, Stihl or Husky is your ticket, and take those precautions. Nothing like going out there, adding a little fresh gas, and getting the job done, and not jacking with it every time you want to use it. My 345 came in a package deal for around $250. The $460 will be about $400, but we will be doing heavier work. We fell trees up to 18" diameter, and may cut four cords a day. You get what you pay for. Buy a good one, and take care of it right. Ignore all the tales of Poulans and Macs that have lasted decades. I'm sure there are some Pintos and Vegas still on the road, too. But if you want something reliable that just runs, and you don't spend a lot of time cussing at, Stihl or Husky. Get an air gun, and clean it good after a good use so the pitch doesn't harden in the working parts. Put it away clean, and it's ready to go next time you need it. Put it away gummy, and the gum will set, or the gas will turn to varnish, and you will have fun getting it going properly next time. Just MHO from ten years of jacking with these things. You get what you pay for, and anything less than Stihl or Husky is junk. The cost difference between them is not that great when you are talking of a quality tool. Well spoken sir! In particular, your closing comment. Nothing more to say. (Except that real men buy Stihl...) -- -Mike- |
#28
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Chainsaw recommendations-Chainsaw Country
I use an Echo 14" for a rough and ready all around chain saw.
House demolition to light tree falling. Brush work, carving....... Lightweight, inexpensive, one hand operation. A sharp chain is is important of course....Good fuel mix a must, little grease gun for bearing..... Saw cover for chain.....keep air filter clean...... And a chain file and handy small guide.....easy to keep prepped. On the larger jobs, I use a Husqavarna. High powered, fast, and dangerous..... Not a home owners model either....They make 2 quality types..... professional that tree fallers use. Good cutting. john "Gramps' shop" wrote in message ... I have infrequent need for a chainsaw and have a little McCullough electric that does OK. There are a couple of trees down in the back too remote for the electric and I'd like to have a gas saw to take advantage of found logs or limbs. Since my use is infrequent, I don't want to invest too much. CL frequently has Poulans available. Here's an example: http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/4346181306.html Any thoughts? Larry |
#29
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Chainsaw recommendations-Chainsaw Country
jloomis wrote:
I use an Echo 14" for a rough and ready all around chain saw. House demolition to light tree falling. Brush work, carving....... For the VERY occasional homeowner use, I agree that Echo is a good buy. Pick it up at a big box store. It will be far better quality than any other offerings they have. But - it's an occasional use saw. Just keep that in mind and all should be well. Lightweight, inexpensive, one hand operation. Only if it is top mounted grip. To use any traditional grip chainsaw in a one handed manner is nothing short of stupidity. There is no control over the bar in this configuration. A sharp chain is is important of course....Good fuel mix a must, little grease gun for bearing..... Saw cover for chain.....keep air filter clean...... And a chain file and handy small guide.....easy to keep prepped. Sharp chain - the number one qualifier for any chainsaw discussion. Too many occasional users never learn how to sharpen a chain, how to recognize when it needs sharpening, et. al. It takes 5 minutes to learn how to do it properly from someone who knows, does not even require a guide, and only a couple of oops' before you're really pretty good at being able to keep a chain sharp enough to do good work. But - for some reason, this escapes most people. On the larger jobs, I use a Husqavarna. High powered, fast, and dangerous..... Such a shame... A Stihl would make you so much happier... Not a home owners model either....They make 2 quality types..... professional that tree fallers use. Except for the very occasional user, I so agree with you! For someone who really wants to use a chainsaw - there is no such thing as a "homeowner" version. Get over it. Accept it. Quit arguing/thinking about it. Just buy a good saw. It won't even cost much more than the junk that homeowners think they're getting a good deal on. Spend the extra $50-$100 and get a saw ferchristsakes... Did I say that right? -- -Mike- |
#30
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Chainsaw recommendations-Chainsaw Country
"Mike Marlow" wrote in
: *snip* Sharp chain - the number one qualifier for any chainsaw discussion. Too many occasional users never learn how to sharpen a chain, how to recognize when it needs sharpening, et. al. It takes 5 minutes to learn how to do it properly from someone who knows, does not even require a guide, and only a couple of oops' before you're really pretty good at being able to keep a chain sharp enough to do good work. But - for some reason, this escapes most people. *snip* I've seen devices that are supposed to "sharpen" a chain that mount on the saw and you run the chain through it. Do they actually work? Or are they like most "sharpeners" out there that take a dull edge and gives you something that actually cuts (but not well) or reshape the edge like a hone? Puckdropper -- Make it to fit, don't make it fit. |
#31
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Chainsaw recommendations-Chainsaw Country
Puckdropper wrote:
"Mike Marlow" wrote in : *snip* Sharp chain - the number one qualifier for any chainsaw discussion. Too many occasional users never learn how to sharpen a chain, how to recognize when it needs sharpening, et. al. It takes 5 minutes to learn how to do it properly from someone who knows, does not even require a guide, and only a couple of oops' before you're really pretty good at being able to keep a chain sharp enough to do good work. But - for some reason, this escapes most people. *snip* I've seen devices that are supposed to "sharpen" a chain that mount on the saw and you run the chain through it. Do they actually work? Or are they like most "sharpeners" out there that take a dull edge and gives you something that actually cuts (but not well) or reshape the edge like a hone? Most of those work well in that they guide you to hold the proper angle. You can learn to do that yourself very easily without a guide, but the guides do indeed work in that regard. You don't run the chain through it though. You can't run a chain through any sharpening device. You still have to apply the sharpening to the cutter. That's usually with a file. And yes - you can indeed get the chain back to factory spec by sharpening it - either with a guide or without one. Forget the hone - you don't have to get all woodworker anal retentive when sharpening a chainsaw chain - or even woodworking tools for that matter... -- -Mike- |
#32
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Chainsaw recommendations-Chainsaw Country
"Mike Marlow" wrote in
: Puckdropper wrote: I've seen devices that are supposed to "sharpen" a chain that mount on the saw and you run the chain through it. Do they actually work? Or are they like most "sharpeners" out there that take a dull edge and gives you something that actually cuts (but not well) or reshape the edge like a hone? Most of those work well in that they guide you to hold the proper angle. You can learn to do that yourself very easily without a guide, but the guides do indeed work in that regard. You don't run the chain through it though. You can't run a chain through any sharpening device. You still have to apply the sharpening to the cutter. That's usually with a file. And yes - you can indeed get the chain back to factory spec by sharpening it - either with a guide or without one. Forget the hone - you don't have to get all woodworker anal retentive when sharpening a chainsaw chain - or even woodworking tools for that matter... Here's what I was thinking about: http://powersharp.com/default_NoFlash.asp# I thought there was also a version built into the saw. Looking at the website, though, it looks like one of those products that's a good idea but restricted to special products only offered by one company. Puckdropper -- Make it to fit, don't make it fit. |
#33
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Chainsaw recommendations-Chainsaw Country
forget it.....
a file and a saw guide...... john "Puckdropper" wrote in message eb.com... "Mike Marlow" wrote in : *snip* Sharp chain - the number one qualifier for any chainsaw discussion. Too many occasional users never learn how to sharpen a chain, how to recognize when it needs sharpening, et. al. It takes 5 minutes to learn how to do it properly from someone who knows, does not even require a guide, and only a couple of oops' before you're really pretty good at being able to keep a chain sharp enough to do good work. But - for some reason, this escapes most people. *snip* I've seen devices that are supposed to "sharpen" a chain that mount on the saw and you run the chain through it. Do they actually work? Or are they like most "sharpeners" out there that take a dull edge and gives you something that actually cuts (but not well) or reshape the edge like a hone? Puckdropper -- Make it to fit, don't make it fit. |
#34
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Chainsaw recommendations-Chainsaw Country
On 2/25/2014 7:19 AM, jloomis wrote:
forget it..... a file and a saw guide...... john "Puckdropper" wrote in message eb.com... "Mike Marlow" wrote in : *snip* Sharp chain - the number one qualifier for any chainsaw discussion. Too many occasional users never learn how to sharpen a chain, how to recognize when it needs sharpening, et. al. It takes 5 minutes to learn how to do it properly from someone who knows, does not even require a guide, and only a couple of oops' before you're really pretty good at being able to keep a chain sharp enough to do good work. But - for some reason, this escapes most people. *snip* I've seen devices that are supposed to "sharpen" a chain that mount on the saw and you run the chain through it. Do they actually work? Or are they like most "sharpeners" out there that take a dull edge and gives you something that actually cuts (but not well) or reshape the edge like a hone? Puckdropper One of the biggest problems with end users in chainsaws is that they overthink the problem. I have a Crapsman chainsaw sharpener that has more adapter dials than a diamond cutting wheel. It takes ten minutes to just get the thing mounted, and that is if you are totally aware on how it works. Most chains have an indicator groove that show which angle to hold the file at when filing. Any book will tell you which direction to stroke. Any book will have instructions on how to file down the nubbins on the chain. Results: If you have a vise or a stump clamp, you can set up your saw, and sharpen it very well in about five minutes. It's all about the angles, and there are only a couple. The devices they sell with motors take off twice the amount of metal needed to sharpen a saw, and most people take off more than that, or take it off in the wrong place. A simple round chainsaw file and a vise or stump clamp is all one needs to service a saw. What do you see those professional guys carrying around in their pocket? Not a bunch of contraptions. Just a file, and maybe a stump clamp. But minimalist gear, and they know how to use it. Get the right gear, and learn how to use it. Get rid of the automatic gadgets, and learn how to do it right. Steve |
#35
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Chainsaw recommendations-Chainsaw Country
"Mike Marlow" wrote in message ... jloomis wrote: I use an Echo 14" for a rough and ready all around chain saw. House demolition to light tree falling. Brush work, carving....... For the VERY occasional homeowner use, I agree that Echo is a good buy. Pick it up at a big box store. It will be far better quality than any other offerings they have. But - it's an occasional use saw. Just keep that in mind and all should be well. I use the echo all the time in the brush and for tearing out remodel work, taking decks out, etc. It is a good all around home/bus. saw. Lightweight, inexpensive, one hand operation. Only if it is top mounted grip. To use any traditional grip chainsaw in a one handed manner is nothing short of stupidity. There is no control over the bar in this configuration. Many fallers use these for small branch removal.....and one handed.... Yes, experience helps, and yes, one has to be very cautious of kick back. 2 hands are always better....always. A sharp chain is is important of course....Good fuel mix a must, little grease gun for bearing..... Saw cover for chain.....keep air filter clean...... And a chain file and handy small guide.....easy to keep prepped. Sharp chain - the number one qualifier for any chainsaw discussion. Too many occasional users never learn how to sharpen a chain, how to recognize when it needs sharpening, et. al. It takes 5 minutes to learn how to do it properly from someone who knows, does not even require a guide, and only a couple of oops' before you're really pretty good at being able to keep a chain sharp enough to do good work. But - for some reason, this escapes most people. On the larger jobs, I use a Husqavarna. High powered, fast, and dangerous..... Such a shame... A Stihl would make you so much happier... Not sure why Stihl would make me happier.... I guess it is like a football team.... ]One always prefers their brand? Not a home owners model either....They make 2 quality types..... professional that tree fallers use. Except for the very occasional user, I so agree with you! For someone who really wants to use a chainsaw - there is no such thing as a "homeowner" version. Yes, there is..... At the local chain saw shop they have differing versions priced that way.... piston size,quality...... tree fallers always get the pro..... Like a John Deere tractor compared to a Case..... Get over it. Accept it. Quit arguing/thinking about it. Just buy a good saw. It won't even cost much more than the junk that homeowners think they're getting a good deal on. Spend the extra $50-$100 and get a saw ferchristsakes... Did I say that right? -- -Mike- |
#36
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Chainsaw recommendations
I would vote for Stihl also. I like to purchase 100% gasoline...not anything with an ounce of ethanol in it. Others have good luck with Stabil or like additives. As posters above point out...drain the gas if used infrequently. I drain gas tanks on 2 stoke devices I can easily flip over...large 4 strokes like mowers or tillers I put a cut off valve in the gas line and run them until they die from lack of fuel. Purists may point out starving an engine struggling to run is lean/harmful...no problems so far. All start on first pull with the addition of fresh fuel next time used.
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#37
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Chainsaw recommendations
"BillinGA" wrote in message ... I would vote for Stihl also. I like to purchase 100% gasoline...not anything with an ounce of ethanol in it. Others have good luck with Stabil or like additives. As posters above point out...drain the gas if used infrequently. I drain gas tanks on 2 stoke devices I can easily flip over...large 4 strokes like mowers or tillers I put a cut off valve in the gas line and run them until they die from lack of fuel. Purists may point out starving an engine struggling to run is lean/harmful...no problems so far. All start on first pull with the addition of fresh fuel next time used. I have learned to never use ethanol gas in single cylinder engines, especially the small ones. I have a Honda baby tiller 4 cycle engine that will NOT run with ethanol gas, but put premium ethanol free gas and it will purr like a kitten. I now use it in my Honda 4 cycle string trimmer and it starts instantly. I use it in my lawn mower, snow blower and other small engines and they all seem to start and run better. It will be used in my chain saw when spring comes -- with the addition of 2 cycle oil. |
#38
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Chainsaw recommendations
On Wed, 26 Feb 2014 11:50:47 -0500, "EXT"
wrote: "BillinGA" wrote in message ... I would vote for Stihl also. I like to purchase 100% gasoline...not anything with an ounce of ethanol in it. Others have good luck with Stabil or like additives. As posters above point out...drain the gas if used infrequently. I drain gas tanks on 2 stoke devices I can easily flip over...large 4 strokes like mowers or tillers I put a cut off valve in the gas line and run them until they die from lack of fuel. Purists may point out starving an engine struggling to run is lean/harmful...no problems so far. All start on first pull with the addition of fresh fuel next time used. I have learned to never use ethanol gas in single cylinder engines, especially the small ones. I have a Honda baby tiller 4 cycle engine that will NOT run with ethanol gas, but put premium ethanol free gas and it will purr like a kitten. I now use it in my Honda 4 cycle string trimmer and it starts instantly. I use it in my lawn mower, snow blower and other small engines and they all seem to start and run better. It will be used in my chain saw when spring comes -- with the addition of 2 cycle oil. I have no trouble with E10 in my small engines, including Honda lawn mower, Crapsman tractor, Generac pressure washer, and 4-cycle trimmer/blower/brush cutter/edger. Works fine in all. Starts fine, even in the spring after sitting for six months. I just change the oil, top off the fuel, and pull. |
#39
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Chainsaw recommendations
EXT wrote:
"BillinGA" wrote in message ... I would vote for Stihl also. I like to purchase 100% gasoline...not anything with an ounce of ethanol in it. Others have good luck with Stabil or like additives. As posters above point out...drain the gas if used infrequently. I drain gas tanks on 2 stoke devices I can easily flip over...large 4 strokes like mowers or tillers I put a cut off valve in the gas line and run them until they die from lack of fuel. Purists may point out starving an engine struggling to run is lean/harmful...no problems so far. All start on first pull with the addition of fresh fuel next time used. I have learned to never use ethanol gas in single cylinder engines, especially the small ones. I have a Honda baby tiller 4 cycle engine that will NOT run with ethanol gas, but put premium ethanol free gas and it will purr like a kitten. I now use it in my Honda 4 cycle string trimmer and it starts instantly. I use it in my lawn mower, snow blower and other small engines and they all seem to start and run better. It will be used in my chain saw when spring comes -- with the addition of 2 cycle oil. You are well advised to follow that plan sir. I use ethanol shields and they have worked very well so far, but it is still better to use fuel that does not contain ethanol. Even with the ethanol shields, natural rubber gas lines decay, seals decay, etc. It's not worth the trouble to use the junk. As you say - just buy non-ethanol gas and be rid of all of the ethanol problems. -- -Mike- |
#40
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Chainsaw recommendations
"Mike Marlow" wrote You are well advised to follow that plan sir. I use ethanol shields and they have worked very well so far, but it is still better to use fuel that does not contain ethanol. Even with the ethanol shields, natural rubber gas lines decay, seals decay, etc. It's not worth the trouble to use the junk. As you say - just buy non-ethanol gas and be rid of all of the ethanol problems. In addition, I have had the metal in some small engine carburetors all but dissolve using E10. They form a powdery type of corrosion that plugs up the small passages and jets, then you might as well throw them away. Expensive. -- Jim in NC --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com |
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