My lovely grandmother sent me a nice check for my birthday that I want
to use to replace my elcheapo craftsman and black and decker electric
hand tools.

My list is as follows:

1) Bosch 1591 EVSK Barrel grip jigsaw. Probably not to much comment
about this one. I've used the 1590 before and it's one sweet piece of
kit. I want the barrel design as I hate handled jig saws.

2) Porter Cable 352VS belt sander. I'm currently up in the air over
this one. I like the robust construction of the tool, but it
certainly isn't on the top of anyone's list anymore.

3) Milwaukee 6391-21 7 1/4" left hand circular saw. I was leaning
toward the Porter Cable 424 MAG 7 1/4" left hand saw, but that quick
release blade do-hicky scares me. I would buy the old version in a
heartbeat if I could find one. The Milwaukee seems to be well
respected. I definitely want a left hand saw. I hate right hand saws
and want a left hand saw. The PC 345 saw boss is certainly of
interest as well. The loss of 5/8" of an inch of cutting depth
wouldn't bother me.

Any suggestions/comments?

Thanks in advance,
================================================== =========================
Chris

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

On Wed, 27 Sep 2006 09:41:16 -0500, Chris Dubea
wrote:


My lovely grandmother sent me a nice check for my birthday that I want
to use to replace my elcheapo craftsman and black and decker electric
hand tools.

My list is as follows:

1) Bosch 1591 EVSK Barrel grip jigsaw. Probably not to much comment
about this one. I've used the 1590 before and it's one sweet piece of
kit. I want the barrel design as I hate handled jig saws.

2) Porter Cable 352VS belt sander. I'm currently up in the air over
this one. I like the robust construction of the tool, but it
certainly isn't on the top of anyone's list anymore.

3) Milwaukee 6391-21 7 1/4" left hand circular saw. I was leaning
toward the Porter Cable 424 MAG 7 1/4" left hand saw, but that quick
release blade do-hicky scares me. I would buy the old version in a
heartbeat if I could find one. The Milwaukee seems to be well
respected. I definitely want a left hand saw. I hate right hand saws
and want a left hand saw. The PC 345 saw boss is certainly of
interest as well. The loss of 5/8" of an inch of cutting depth
wouldn't bother me.

Any suggestions/comments?

Thanks in advance,
================================================= ==========================
Chris

Okay, answering my own message!

Looking at Tyler Tool's website I can get the Bosch 1584AVSK refurb
for about $50 than the 1591 EVSK. Is the newer version work $50
more?

later
================================================== =========================
Chris

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Chris Dubea wrote:
Looking at Tyler Tool's website I can get the Bosch 1584AVSK refurb
for about $50 than the 1591 EVSK. Is the newer version work $50
more?

Good question - I haven't used the 1584, so I can't directly answer
that, but you should be able to find the 1591 cheaper than $180, I
would think. I got my 1590 (top handle version) from Coastal Tool for
$150. Toolking.com shows the 1591 for $165. I've also heard very good
things about the Dewalt high-end jigsaws, but haven't used one, and I
don't know if they come in barrel grip.
One other tool for your consideration - do you already have a good
cordless drill/driver? My old crapsman is on its way out, so there
are two that are currently competing for the top spot on my Christmas
list: The little Bosch PS20, and the Makita 14.4V NiMH set with a drill
and a separate impact driver.
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-PS20-2-1...628645?ie=UTF8
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...R786L3 7TKQ51
(If anyone has used either of these, and wants to pass along opinions,
feel free...)
Finally, if you'd consider going cordless, and you don't already have a
few hand planes, I'll throw in a recommendation for a good one of
those. A low-angle block plane (Lee Valley or Lie Nielsen) and #4
smoother (LV, LN or Steve Knight) are high on my list of commonly-used
tools, as well as a shoulder plane (LV, LN, Clifton) for fitting
joints. In my experience, these are faster and more accurate (not to
mention less messy) than a belt sander for most applications.
Have fun with your check,
Andy

"Chris Dubea"
My lovely grandmother sent me a nice check for my birthday ...

The Milwaukee seems to be well respected. I definitely want a left hand
saw. I hate right hand saws and want a left hand saw.
Any suggestions/comments?

I've recently switched to the Bosch version of the Mag77. Awesome saw.

Dave

In article , Chris Dubea wrote:

1) Bosch 1591 EVSK Barrel grip jigsaw. Probably not to much comment
about this one. I've used the 1590 before and it's one sweet piece of
kit. I want the barrel design as I hate handled jig saws.

Just one comment about this one: if you have small hands (like I do), don't
buy this from a catalog without examining one hands-on first. You might find
it not very convenient or comfortable to grip.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

"Chris Dubea" wrote in message
...
anyone's list anymore.

3) Milwaukee 6391-21 7 1/4" left hand circular saw. I was leaning
toward the Porter Cable 424 MAG 7 1/4" left hand saw, but that quick
release blade do-hicky scares me. I would buy the old version in a
heartbeat if I could find one. The Milwaukee seems to be well
respected. I definitely want a left hand saw. I hate right hand saws
and want a left hand saw. The PC 345 saw boss is certainly of
interest as well. The loss of 5/8" of an inch of cutting depth
wouldn't bother me.

Any suggestions/comments?

Left hand saws are meant to be used with your left hand so that you are not
exposed to the exposed side of the blade. This is a safety feature for left
handers. Something to think about since you are thinking safety and do not
trust the PC quick release.

================================================ ===========================
Chris

Okay, answering my own message!

Looking at Tyler Tool's website I can get the Bosch 1584AVSK refurb
for about $50 than the 1591 EVSK. Is the newer version work $50
more?

The biggest difference between the two is that the later model Bosch, the
1591, has a TRUE quick blade release. While the older model blade release
works ok if you like diddeling with the saw when changing blades, the newer
1591 model has a lever you push over and the blade pops out. Its a 1 or 2
second procedure vs. much longer.

Milwaukee saws also have this feature.

Leon"
Left hand saws are meant to be used with your left hand so that you are
not exposed to the exposed side of the blade. This is a safety feature
for left handers.

Leon, You seem to be the only one who keeps bringing up this issue.
Generally, I have a great deal of respect for your opinion however, on this
issue I believe you are incorrect.

The blade left saws are not designed for left handed people.
Skil/Bosch/Milwaukee/Dewalt all make saws with left bladed - and they
outsell the right blade ones five to one. Interestingly enough, most call
it their professional - heavy duty or framer saw. I generally use my right
hand to saw with and I prefer the left bladed saw. It's much easier to see
the line and hold it on line.

Dave



Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY **
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com

I have the P-C 352 vs. Good sander easy to use. Mine went out after about
100 hr of use, the trigger switch burned out. Repair according to PC is
about $100 +, switch costs $7.10 but they want to change out the armature.
Don't even know if I can buy a switch myself since there are 5 models of the
sander and mine is the oldest. I am going to try an independent shop to get
the switch and give it a try, the armature looks good to me and all the
smoke is from the switch. When it works it is nice and does everything you
ask of it with no complaints or problems, when it's broke it is broke. I
wonder if this is B&D's way of getting me to buy a new sander? I never had
problems getting parts of PC tools in the past.
"Chris Dubea" wrote in message
...

My lovely grandmother sent me a nice check for my birthday that I want
to use to replace my elcheapo craftsman and black and decker electric
hand tools.

My list is as follows:

1) Bosch 1591 EVSK Barrel grip jigsaw. Probably not to much comment
about this one. I've used the 1590 before and it's one sweet piece of
kit. I want the barrel design as I hate handled jig saws.

2) Porter Cable 352VS belt sander. I'm currently up in the air over
this one. I like the robust construction of the tool, but it
certainly isn't on the top of anyone's list anymore.

3) Milwaukee 6391-21 7 1/4" left hand circular saw. I was leaning
toward the Porter Cable 424 MAG 7 1/4" left hand saw, but that quick
release blade do-hicky scares me. I would buy the old version in a
heartbeat if I could find one. The Milwaukee seems to be well
respected. I definitely want a left hand saw. I hate right hand saws
and want a left hand saw. The PC 345 saw boss is certainly of
interest as well. The loss of 5/8" of an inch of cutting depth
wouldn't bother me.

Any suggestions/comments?

Thanks in advance,

================================================== =========================
Chris

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Chris Dubea wrote:

My list is as follows:

1) Bosch 1591 EVSK Barrel grip jigsaw.

Most any Bosch works.

2) Porter Cable 352VS belt sander.

It's a POS, but a more basic question.

Unless you are doing tops, why would you want a belt sander?

3) Milwaukee 6391-21 7 1/4" left hand circular saw.

If you do construction and need that type saw, that's as good as any.

Personally, I prefer a small panel saw for trimming sheet goods.

Lew

And on the plus side, my dad can't stand using my PC left-bladed saw, so I
don't have to worry about it ending up in his collection!

Clint

"Teamcasa" wrote in message
...
Leon"
Left hand saws are meant to be used with your left hand so that you are
not exposed to the exposed side of the blade. This is a safety feature
for left handers.

Leon, You seem to be the only one who keeps bringing up this issue.
Generally, I have a great deal of respect for your opinion however, on
this issue I believe you are incorrect.

The blade left saws are not designed for left handed people.
Skil/Bosch/Milwaukee/Dewalt all make saws with left bladed - and they
outsell the right blade ones five to one. Interestingly enough, most call
it their professional - heavy duty or framer saw. I generally use my
right hand to saw with and I prefer the left bladed saw. It's much easier
to see the line and hold it on line.

Dave



Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY **
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com

In article , Chris Dubea
wrote:



Looking at Tyler Tool's website I can get the Bosch 1584AVSK refurb
for about $50 than the 1591 EVSK. Is the newer version work $50
more?

I have the 1590. It is a great tool. It also clearly says "Made in
Switzerland". I think the 1584s say "Made in Taiwan" IIRC

I got the Makita back in March for b-day..

Killer outfit and you ain't going to believe
the light.

Andy wrote:


My old crapsman is on its way out, so there
are two that are currently competing for the top spot on my Christmas
list: The little Bosch PS20, and the Makita 14.4V NiMH set with a drill
and a separate impact driver.
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-PS20-2-1...628645?ie=UTF8
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...R786L3 7TKQ51

On Wed, 27 Sep 2006 10:03:10 -0700, "Teamcasa"
wrote:

Leon"
Left hand saws are meant to be used with your left hand so that you are
not exposed to the exposed side of the blade. This is a safety feature
for left handers.

Leon, You seem to be the only one who keeps bringing up this issue.
Generally, I have a great deal of respect for your opinion however, on this
issue I believe you are incorrect.

The blade left saws are not designed for left handed people.
Skil/Bosch/Milwaukee/Dewalt all make saws with left bladed - and they
outsell the right blade ones five to one. Interestingly enough, most call
it their professional - heavy duty or framer saw. I generally use my right
hand to saw with and I prefer the left bladed saw. It's much easier to see
the line and hold it on line.

Dave


I'm in complete agreement with you here. I hate having to look over
the motor to see the blade.

It all goes back to my days in construction and using worm drive saws.
All of these have the blade on the left side of the handle. I just
found that a lot more natural.

Thanks,
================================================== =========================
Chris

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

On Wed, 27 Sep 2006 18:06:17 GMT, Lew Hodgett
wrote:

Chris Dubea wrote:

My list is as follows:

1) Bosch 1591 EVSK Barrel grip jigsaw.

Most any Bosch works.

2) Porter Cable 352VS belt sander.

It's a POS, but a more basic question.

Care to elucidate upon this?

Unless you are doing tops, why would you want a belt sander?

My real POS Black and Decker has been used for many years. Different
folks have different working methods.

3) Milwaukee 6391-21 7 1/4" left hand circular saw.

If you do construction and need that type saw, that's as good as any.

Personally, I prefer a small panel saw for trimming sheet goods.

Such as?


Lew

thanks

================================================== =========================
Chris

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

On Wed, 27 Sep 2006 15:54:46 GMT, (Doug Miller)
wrote:

In article , Chris Dubea wrote:

1) Bosch 1591 EVSK Barrel grip jigsaw. Probably not to much comment
about this one. I've used the 1590 before and it's one sweet piece of
kit. I want the barrel design as I hate handled jig saws.

Just one comment about this one: if you have small hands (like I do), don't
buy this from a catalog without examining one hands-on first. You might find
it not very convenient or comfortable to grip.

I've used the 1584 and had no problems handling it as my hands are not
particularly small.

Thanks for the heads up.
================================================== =========================
Chris

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

On Wed, 27 Sep 2006 12:50:31 -0500, "sweetsawdust"
wrote:

I have the P-C 352 vs. Good sander easy to use. Mine went out after about
100 hr of use, the trigger switch burned out. Repair according to PC is
about $100 +, switch costs $7.10 but they want to change out the armature.
Don't even know if I can buy a switch myself since there are 5 models of the
sander and mine is the oldest. I am going to try an independent shop to get
the switch and give it a try, the armature looks good to me and all the
smoke is from the switch. When it works it is nice and does everything you
ask of it with no complaints or problems, when it's broke it is broke. I
wonder if this is B&D's way of getting me to buy a new sander? I never had
problems getting parts of PC tools in the past.

H'mmm that's interesting. It's not encouraging when trigger switches
fail on electric tools.

The trigger switch on my VS profession B & D now only has one speed.
In it's defense the drill was immersed in brackish water thanks to
Katrina. I'll have to see if parts are available.

Thanks for the info.

================================================== =========================
Chris

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Chris Dubea wrote:

My lovely grandmother sent me a nice check for my birthday that I want
to use to replace my elcheapo craftsman and black and decker electric
hand tools.

My list is as follows:

1) Bosch 1591 EVSK Barrel grip jigsaw. Probably not to much comment
about this one. I've used the 1590 before and it's one sweet piece of
kit. I want the barrel design as I hate handled jig saws.

2) Porter Cable 352VS belt sander. I'm currently up in the air over
this one. I like the robust construction of the tool, but it
certainly isn't on the top of anyone's list anymore.

3) Milwaukee 6391-21 7 1/4" left hand circular saw. I was leaning
toward the Porter Cable 424 MAG 7 1/4" left hand saw, but that quick
release blade do-hicky scares me. I would buy the old version in a
heartbeat if I could find one. The Milwaukee seems to be well
respected. I definitely want a left hand saw. I hate right hand saws
and want a left hand saw. The PC 345 saw boss is certainly of
interest as well. The loss of 5/8" of an inch of cutting depth
wouldn't bother me.

Any suggestions/comments?

Thanks in advance,
================================================== =========================
Chris

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

"Teamcasa" wrote in message
...
Leon"
Left hand saws are meant to be used with your left hand so that you are
not exposed to the exposed side of the blade. This is a safety feature
for left handers.

Leon, You seem to be the only one who keeps bringing up this issue.
Generally, I have a great deal of respect for your opinion however, on
this issue I believe you are incorrect.

Ok,, fair enough Dave.

The last time I looked at the owners manuals for the PC left and righ saws,
the manual stated to hold the left saw in the left hand and the right saw in
the right hand.
Also, the correct way to cut a board to length is to have the larger area of
the saw base resting on the longer piece of wood and or the piece that is
not going to fall away. When you use the left handed worm drive saw with
your right hand and support the wood with your other, where is ths saw
setting . Is it setting on the small area of the base that is on the left
side of the blade as it should be?

If you look at the PC manual on line you will see that the proper way to
hold the left blade is with your left hand on the triger handle and your
right hand ont the auxillery handle over the motor.

http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/Serv...ns/Default.asp

Unfortunately this link does not seem to work as a short cut but if you log
in to the PC/DeWalt site and inquire in to the 423MAG left blade circle saw
you can eventually get to the owners manual. They have a photo of the
correct way to hold the saw.


The blade left saws are not designed for left handed people.
Skil/Bosch/Milwaukee/Dewalt all make saws with left bladed - and they
outsell the right blade ones five to one.

That does not mean that the users are correctly using the saws. Probably
the same ratio of TS users work with out a guard. Does that make working
with out a guard correct?

Still you should not have the blade between your 2 hands. Now this is going
to really throw you. :~) Bosch shows to hold the left blade worm dirive
with your right hand on the trigger handle however to keep the blade from
being positioned between your hands they also illustrate to hold the
auxillery handle with your left hand. Essentially Bosch wants you to criss
corss you hands if you are going to hold the left blade worm dirive with
your righ hand on the trigger handle. This effectively keeps the blade on
the outside position of your hands instead of between your hands. Check the
illustration on Page 4 of the owners manual.
http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/Serv...ns/Default.asp

Going farther, the side winder right blade manual clearly issustrates that
the right hand should be on the trigger handle and the left on the axillery
handle.

Check page 4 again here

http://66.77.255.87/Images/BOSCHPDF/...ANUAL/CS20.pdf



Interestingly enough, most call
it their professional - heavy duty or framer saw. I generally use my
right hand to saw with and I prefer the left bladed saw. It's much easier
to see the line and hold it on line.

I totally agree that it is easier to see the line however you are also more
exsposed to the open exposed side of the blade and the debris that it may
throw back at you.

"Leon" wrote in message
t...





Is it setting on the small area of the base that is on the left
side of the blade as it should be?


Oops.. The saw should be setting on the large area of the base when the
scrap falls away.

"Leon" wrote in message
t...

damn

The corrected link.

Still you should not have the blade between your 2 hands. Now this is going
to really throw you. :~) Bosch shows to hold the left blade worm drive
with your right hand on the trigger handle however to keep the blade from
being positioned between your hands they also illustrate to hold the
auxiliary handle with your left hand. Essentially Bosch wants you to criss
cross you hands if you are going to hold the left blade worm drive with
your right hand on the trigger handle. This effectively keeps the blade on
the outside position of your hands instead of between your hands. Check the
illustration on Page 4 of the owners manual.


http://66.77.255.87/Images/BOSCHPDF/...L/1677-100.pdf

"Chris Dubea" wrote in message
...


H'mmm that's interesting. It's not encouraging when trigger switches
fail on electric tools.

The trigger switch on my VS profession B & D now only has one speed.
In it's defense the drill was immersed in brackish water thanks to
Katrina. I'll have to see if parts are available.

The power switch is probably the most common part to fail on a tool. The
switches on both of my Bosch routers have failed and one did not make it
through the first day.

You WILL use the jigsaw and circular saw with some frequency. Go get
what you like and consider refurbished equipment to keep the cost
down.
Regarding the belt sander, hold off the replacement until you see how
much you need one. Continue shopping, but don't buy it until the
project comes up that calls for it. You might find another tool that
you will use more frequently.
I have a PC LH circ saw and a Makita RH circ saw. Both are
professional grade. I currently favor the RH Makita probably because
it's newer and comes with a blade brake.

On Wed, 27 Sep 2006 09:41:16 -0500, Chris Dubea
wrote:


My lovely grandmother sent me a nice check for my birthday that I want
to use to replace my elcheapo craftsman and black and decker electric
hand tools.

Chris Dubea wrote:

Care to elucidate upon this?

While building a boat, managed to burn up and get rebuilt under
warranty every P/C model belt sander except the "Choo-choo" which is
no longer available.

These days, I'm fooling around with furniture, the "Choo-Choo" just
sets on the shelf collecting dust.

If I need a flat glue-up, head for the drum sanding outfit.

Such as?

I use a 10 year old, 18VDC, DeWalt panel saw that came with a drill as
a kit.

Add x 2x2x1/8x96 aluminum angle and a couple of 3", C-Clamps and I'm
good to go.

Cut pieces 1/4" proud and then clean up with a router or table saw as
req'd.



HTH

Lew

Chris Dubea wrote:

My list is as follows:

1) Bosch 1591 EVSK Barrel grip jigsaw.
2) Porter Cable 352VS belt sander.
3) Milwaukee 6391-21 7 1/4" left hand circular saw.

The more I thought about this post, the more I thought about the tools
I frequently use these days, in no particular order.

A good 10" table saw equipped with a Unifence, a good set of 10"
carbide saw blades, and a good dado set.

A jointer.

A bench top planer.

A router kit with both fixed and plunge bases.

A 6" Bosch, ROS (I dream about a Fein 8").

A Fein detail sander with all the goodies.

A Bosch jig saw.

A 1,500 watt heat gun.

A battery operated panel saw.

A battery operated drill.

A 1/2", right angle, 2 speed, corded drill to handle that collection
of hole saws.

Probably the biggest investment is the collection of cutting tools
required for those power tools.

After that, it is clamps, clamps and more clamps.

HTH

Lew

Using the standard cut alignment mark on the sawplate, the position of the
kerf in relation to that mark would indicate what side of the plate is
supposed to be on the keeper piece. Assuming that a left blade saw is a
mirror image of a right blade saw, I would have to get used to it as I would
constantly be cutting to the wrong side of the line. I do prefer the right
blade saw a it feels natural (as that is all I have used) and it forces me
to keep my hand away from the blade. Can't get to close due to the motor.

"Leon" wrote in message
t...

"Teamcasa" wrote in message
...
Leon"
Left hand saws are meant to be used with your left hand so that you are
not exposed to the exposed side of the blade. This is a safety feature
for left handers.

Leon, You seem to be the only one who keeps bringing up this issue.
Generally, I have a great deal of respect for your opinion however, on
this issue I believe you are incorrect.

Ok,, fair enough Dave.

The last time I looked at the owners manuals for the PC left and righ
saws,
the manual stated to hold the left saw in the left hand and the right saw
in
the right hand.
Also, the correct way to cut a board to length is to have the larger area
of
the saw base resting on the longer piece of wood and or the piece that is
not going to fall away. When you use the left handed worm drive saw with
your right hand and support the wood with your other, where is ths saw
setting . Is it setting on the small area of the base that is on the left
side of the blade as it should be?

If you look at the PC manual on line you will see that the proper way to
hold the left blade is with your left hand on the triger handle and your
right hand ont the auxillery handle over the motor.


http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/Serv...ns/Default.asp

Unfortunately this link does not seem to work as a short cut but if you
log
in to the PC/DeWalt site and inquire in to the 423MAG left blade circle
saw
you can eventually get to the owners manual. They have a photo of the
correct way to hold the saw.


The blade left saws are not designed for left handed people.
Skil/Bosch/Milwaukee/Dewalt all make saws with left bladed - and they
outsell the right blade ones five to one.

That does not mean that the users are correctly using the saws. Probably
the same ratio of TS users work with out a guard. Does that make working
with out a guard correct?

Still you should not have the blade between your 2 hands. Now this is
going
to really throw you. :~) Bosch shows to hold the left blade worm dirive
with your right hand on the trigger handle however to keep the blade from
being positioned between your hands they also illustrate to hold the
auxillery handle with your left hand. Essentially Bosch wants you to
criss
corss you hands if you are going to hold the left blade worm dirive with
your righ hand on the trigger handle. This effectively keeps the blade on
the outside position of your hands instead of between your hands. Check
the
illustration on Page 4 of the owners manual.

http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/Serv...ns/Default.asp

Going farther, the side winder right blade manual clearly issustrates that
the right hand should be on the trigger handle and the left on the
axillery
handle.

Check page 4 again here

http://66.77.255.87/Images/BOSCHPDF/...ANUAL/CS20.pdf



Interestingly enough, most call
it their professional - heavy duty or framer saw. I generally use my
right hand to saw with and I prefer the left bladed saw. It's much
easier
to see the line and hold it on line.

I totally agree that it is easier to see the line however you are also
more
exsposed to the open exposed side of the blade and the debris that it may
throw back at you.

"CW" wrote in message
ink.net...
Using the standard cut alignment mark on the sawplate, the position of the
kerf in relation to that mark would indicate what side of the plate is
supposed to be on the keeper piece. Assuming that a left blade saw is a
mirror image of a right blade saw, I would have to get used to it as I
would
constantly be cutting to the wrong side of the line. I do prefer the right
blade saw a it feels natural (as that is all I have used) and it forces me
to keep my hand away from the blade. Can't get to close due to the motor.


Exactly, that too.

Actually all instruction manuals demonstrate that the circle saw should be
used with 2 hands, one on each handle. This becomes awkward if a right
handed person uses a left side saw and visa versa.

On Thu, 28 Sep 2006 00:37:35 GMT, Lew Hodgett
wrote:

The more I thought about this post, the more I thought about the tools
I frequently use these days, in no particular order.

A good 10" table saw equipped with a Unifence, a good set of 10"
carbide saw blades, and a good dado set.

Got that although the saw is currently in pieces thanks to Katrina.

A jointer.

Got one, see above comment


A bench top planer.

Got one

A router kit with both fixed and plunge bases.

Got one

A 6" Bosch, ROS (I dream about a Fein 8").

Have a PC right angle ROS which I like a lot and a PC square pad ROS
to finish with.


A Fein detail sander with all the goodies.

H'mmm interesting. My experience with detail sanders was with a Ryobi
POS and it definitely left a bad taste in my mouth regarding detail
sanders. I felt guilty selling it for $5 at a garage sale.

A Bosch jig saw.

Getting one ;

A 1,500 watt heat gun.

I'm at a loss to understand the usage of this in woodworking.

A battery operated panel saw.

I've got an anathema regarding battery powered saws. As indicated, I
want to replace my current Skil 7 1/4" circular saw with something a
little less, "flimsy".

A battery operated drill.

Got one

A 1/2", right angle, 2 speed, corded drill to handle that collection
of hole saws.

I can see the utility. Kind of pricey for very limited usage though.

Probably the biggest investment is the collection of cutting tools
required for those power tools.

Indeed

After that, it is clamps, clamps and more clamps.

Got those!


HTH

Lew

cheers,

================================================== =========================
Chris

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Chris Dubea (in ) said:

| On Thu, 28 Sep 2006 00:37:35 GMT, Lew Hodgett
| wrote:

|| A Fein detail sander with all the goodies.
|
| H'mmm interesting. My experience with detail sanders was with a
| Ryobi POS and it definitely left a bad taste in my mouth regarding
| detail sanders. I felt guilty selling it for $5 at a garage sale.

Lew offered good advice. It'd be worth the time and trouble to find
someone local who'll let you try theirs. This isn't a low-budget item;
but is almost certain to change your opinion of detail sanders!

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto

H'mmm interesting. My experience with detail sanders was with a Ryobi
POS and it definitely left a bad taste in my mouth regarding detail
sanders. I felt guilty selling it for $5 at a garage sale.

Fein is a different world.

I'm at a loss to understand the usage of this in woodworking.

If you ever need to break a TiteBond II joint or lift a piece of
plastic laminate, a heat gun is essential.


I've got an anathema regarding battery powered saws. As indicated, I
want to replace my current Skil 7 1/4" circular saw with something a
little less, "flimsy".

I wasn't excited about mine when I got it as part of a kit, but the
little bugger surprised me.

Works very well for sheet goods.

A 1/2", right angle, 2 speed, corded drill to handle that collection
of hole saws.

I can see the utility. Kind of pricey for very limited usage though.

Agreed. Got mine as part of a barter.

Got those!

You never have too many clampsG.

Lew

"Leon"
Still you should not have the blade between your 2 hands. Now this is
going
to really throw you. :~) Bosch shows to hold the left blade worm drive
with your right hand on the trigger handle however to keep the blade from
being positioned between your hands they also illustrate to hold the
auxiliary handle with your left hand. Essentially Bosch wants you to
criss
cross you hands if you are going to hold the left blade worm drive with
your right hand on the trigger handle. This effectively keeps the blade
on
the outside position of your hands instead of between your hands. Check
the
illustration on Page 4 of the owners manual.


http://66.77.255.87/Images/BOSCHPDF/...L/1677-100.pdf

Leon,
You obviously spent a great deal of time looking up this data. However, if
you ask anyone who uses a worm drive (by default, left blade) saw, they
will tell you it is a great tool. I have made hundreds of thousands of
cuts with one and I have never felt like my arms were criss-crossed. 99% of
the time, I am holding the workpiece with my left hand and cutting with the
right. The action is the same as hand sawing only with a powered saw. I see
the line, I hold the work and that nonsense about the weight of the saw only
supported by thin side is just that nonsense. If a builder can not hold the
saw up, he should not be using it anyway.

The other advantage to the worm drive is it length. I can cross-cut a 4'x8'
piece (in the middle) of plywood in one push. The other thing I have found
interesting is West coast framers overwhelmingly prefer the worm drive saw.
However, East coasters like the sidewinders. Since Texas is in the middle,
maybe that's the source of confusion

I emailed both Milwaukee (I don't take credit for their grammar) and Porter
Cable, their responses are below. Neither say one is for left handed or
right handed people.

Dave

---

Dear David,
Thank you for visiting the Porter-Cable website.
It is just a personal preference. Some customers prefer the blade on the
right while others prefer it on the left.
Regards,
Customer Care Department


Dave,
Most "Left Handed" Saws will state that is what they actually are.
Our worm drive saw
was designed to be a two handed saw which offers the blade on the left.
The National standard
for cordess circular saws the blade is on the left.
Actually, most right handed saws offer the blade on the right side.
Thank You,
Sincerely,
Milwaukee Electric Tool Corporation
John M. Resch
After-Sales Service - Technical Support



Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY **
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com

"CW"
Using the standard cut alignment mark on the sawplate, the position of the
kerf in relation to that mark would indicate what side of the plate is
supposed to be on the keeper piece. Assuming that a left blade saw is a
mirror image of a right blade saw, I would have to get used to it as I
would
constantly be cutting to the wrong side of the line. I do prefer the right
blade saw a it feels natural (as that is all I have used) and it forces me
to keep my hand away from the blade. Can't get to close due to the motor.

Nonsense, I have taught teenaged girls (house building in Mexico) to use the
wormdrive. They have no problem with it, In fact, after using it for hours
of cutting, the biggest problem they have is the boys coming over and
wanting to do the cutting for them.

The hardest part of teaching people to use the saw is keeping people from
holding the fall-off piece.

Dave



Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY **
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com

"Teamcasa" wrote in message
...


Leon,
You obviously spent a great deal of time looking up this data. However,
if you ask anyone who uses a worm drive (by default, left blade) saw,
they will tell you it is a great tool. I have made hundreds of thousands
of cuts with one and I have never felt like my arms were criss-crossed.
99% of the time, I am holding the workpiece with my left hand and cutting
with the right. The action is the same as hand sawing only with a powered
saw. I see the line, I hold the work and that nonsense about the weight
of the saw only supported by thin side is just that nonsense. If a
builder can not hold the saw up, he should not be using it anyway.

Dave I am not saying that people are not using the saw the same way that you
do. I agree that probably most people hold the left blade worm dirive with
their right hand.



The other advantage to the worm drive is it length. I can cross-cut a
4'x8' piece (in the middle) of plywood in one push. The other thing I
have found interesting is West coast framers overwhelmingly prefer the
worm drive saw. However, East coasters like the sidewinders. Since Texas
is in the middle, maybe that's the source of confusion

I emailed both Milwaukee (I don't take credit for their grammar) and
Porter Cable, their responses are below. Neither say one is for left
handed or right handed people.

Well nothing you ask a rep is binding and they will always refer you to the
owners manual if there is a possibility of litigation concerning an injury.
I recall the first time I saw the PC left blade at a ww show. The reps were
selling them that they were intended for left handed users. The owners
manuals indicate this also. Regardless of whether a person uses the saw
correctly or not the owners manual is the final say.

"Teamcasa" wrote in message
...

The hardest part of teaching people to use the saw is keeping people from
holding the fall-off piece.


Having never used a worm drive with left blade arrangement or any left hand
saw, with which hand do you hold the keeper end of a board when holding the
saw with your right hand? Seems to me it would be the left hand but that
hand would have to be on the opposite side of the saw if done correctly.
Otherwise you have to rest the saw on the scrap fall away side and that is
not a safe scenario?

The fact that you mention the hardest part is teach the people to not hold
the fall off piece seems to indicate that the setup for the cut is wrong to
start with. If you hold the left hand saw with your left hand this pretty
much becomes a moot point. Same goes with the right blade for right
handers. If the blade is not situated between your two hands, you are as
tempted to grab that waste piece as it falls away.

Taking line of site out of the equation, it makes more sense to me for
safety reasons to use the left in your left hand and your right in your
right hand.

"Leon" wrote in message
m...

"Teamcasa" wrote in message
...

The hardest part of teaching people to use the saw is keeping people from
holding the fall-off piece.


Having never used a worm drive with left blade arrangement or any left
hand saw, with which hand do you hold the keeper end of a board when
holding the saw with your right hand? Seems to me it would be the left
hand but that hand would have to be on the opposite side of the saw if
done correctly. Otherwise you have to rest the saw on the scrap fall away
side and that is not a safe scenario?

The fact that you mention the hardest part is teach the people to not hold
the fall off piece seems to indicate that the setup for the cut is wrong
to start with. If you hold the left hand saw with your left hand this
pretty much becomes a moot point. Same goes with the right blade for
right handers. If the blade is not situated between your two hands, you
are as tempted to grab that waste piece as it falls away.

Taking line of site out of the equation, it makes more sense to me for
safety reasons to use the left in your left hand and your right in your
right hand.

The typical method is to hold/secure the longest end of the board being cut,
regardless of the keep piece, with your left hand - use your right hand to
guide the saw, cut the side of the line that protects the measurement of the
keep piece - let the short piece fall free.

Below are a few examples of people using the saw.

http://www.teamcasa.org/images/2005i...4_june2005.jpg

http://www.teamcasa.org/images/2005images/100_0202.jpg

Dave

"Leon" wrote in message
m...

"Teamcasa" wrote in message
...


Leon,
You obviously spent a great deal of time looking up this data. However,
if you ask anyone who uses a worm drive (by default, left blade) saw,
they will tell you it is a great tool. I have made hundreds of
thousands of cuts with one and I have never felt like my arms were
criss-crossed. 99% of the time, I am holding the workpiece with my left
hand and cutting with the right. The action is the same as hand sawing
only with a powered saw. I see the line, I hold the work and that
nonsense about the weight of the saw only supported by thin side is just
that nonsense. If a builder can not hold the saw up, he should not be
using it anyway.

Dave I am not saying that people are not using the saw the same way that
you do. I agree that probably most people hold the left blade worm dirive
with their right hand.



The other advantage to the worm drive is it length. I can cross-cut a
4'x8' piece (in the middle) of plywood in one push. The other thing I
have found interesting is West coast framers overwhelmingly prefer the
worm drive saw. However, East coasters like the sidewinders. Since Texas
is in the middle, maybe that's the source of confusion

I emailed both Milwaukee (I don't take credit for their grammar) and
Porter Cable, their responses are below. Neither say one is for left
handed or right handed people.

Well nothing you ask a rep is binding and they will always refer you to
the owners manual if there is a possibility of litigation concerning an
injury. I recall the first time I saw the PC left blade at a ww show. The
reps were selling them that they were intended for left handed users. The
owners manuals indicate this also. Regardless of whether a person uses
the saw correctly or not the owners manual is the final say.

Agreed.

Below are a few examples of people using the saw.

http://www.teamcasa.org/images/2005i...4_june2005.jpg

http://www.teamcasa.org/images/2005images/100_0202.jpg

Dave

I, for one, can see why the guys wanted the girls to cut their boards for
them!!! Need any help down there???

"Tim Taylor" wrote in message
...

Below are a few examples of people using the saw.

http://www.teamcasa.org/images/2005i...4_june2005.jpg

http://www.teamcasa.org/images/2005images/100_0202.jpg

Dave

I, for one, can see why the guys wanted the girls to cut their boards for
them!!! Need any help down there???

We always can use an extra hand!

Dave

"Chris Dubea" wrote in message
...

On Thu, 28 Sep 2006 00:37:35 GMT, Lew Hodgett
wrote:

The more I thought about this post, the more I thought about the tools
I frequently use these days, in no particular order.

A good 10" table saw equipped with a Unifence, a good set of 10"
carbide saw blades, and a good dado set.

Got that although the saw is currently in pieces thanks to Katrina.

A jointer.

Got one, see above comment


A bench top planer.

Got one

A router kit with both fixed and plunge bases.

Got one

A 6" Bosch, ROS (I dream about a Fein 8").

Have a PC right angle ROS which I like a lot and a PC square pad ROS
to finish with.


A Fein detail sander with all the goodies.

H'mmm interesting. My experience with detail sanders was with a Ryobi
POS and it definitely left a bad taste in my mouth regarding detail
sanders. I felt guilty selling it for $5 at a garage sale.

Don't think of it as a "detail sander". Fein calls it a "multimaster" and
it does many things other than detail sanding. Among other things it can
saw flush to a surface and get into places that are inaccessible with a
jigsaw or circular saw.

A Bosch jig saw.

Getting one ;

A 1,500 watt heat gun.

I'm at a loss to understand the usage of this in woodworking.

A battery operated panel saw.

I've got an anathema regarding battery powered saws. As indicated, I
want to replace my current Skil 7 1/4" circular saw with something a
little less, "flimsy".

A battery operated drill.

Got one

A 1/2", right angle, 2 speed, corded drill to handle that collection
of hole saws.

I can see the utility. Kind of pricey for very limited usage though.

Probably the biggest investment is the collection of cutting tools
required for those power tools.

Indeed

After that, it is clamps, clamps and more clamps.

Got those!


HTH

Lew

cheers,

================================================== =========================
Chris

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

"J. Clarke" wrote in
:

*snip*

A Fein detail sander with all the goodies.

H'mmm interesting. My experience with detail sanders was with a
Ryobi POS and it definitely left a bad taste in my mouth regarding
detail sanders. I felt guilty selling it for $5 at a garage sale.

Don't think of it as a "detail sander". Fein calls it a "multimaster"
and it does many things other than detail sanding. Among other things
it can saw flush to a surface and get into places that are
inaccessible with a jigsaw or circular saw.

*snip*

You quoted the guy's whole post to say just this? Please trim the reply
to what you're replying to exactly, or summarize.

Puckdropper
--
Wise is the man who attempts to answer his question before asking it.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

Chris Dubea wrote:

My lovely grandmother sent me a nice check for my birthday that I want
to use to replace my elcheapo craftsman and black and decker electric
hand tools.

My list is as follows:

1) Bosch 1591 EVSK Barrel grip jigsaw. Probably not to much comment
about this one. I've used the 1590 before and it's one sweet piece of
kit. I want the barrel design as I hate handled jig saws.

2) Porter Cable 352VS belt sander. I'm currently up in the air over
this one. I like the robust construction of the tool, but it
certainly isn't on the top of anyone's list anymore.

3) Milwaukee 6391-21 7 1/4" left hand circular saw. I was leaning
toward the Porter Cable 424 MAG 7 1/4" left hand saw, but that quick
release blade do-hicky scares me. I would buy the old version in a
heartbeat if I could find one. The Milwaukee seems to be well
respected. I definitely want a left hand saw. I hate right hand saws
and want a left hand saw. The PC 345 saw boss is certainly of
interest as well. The loss of 5/8" of an inch of cutting depth
wouldn't bother me.

Any suggestions/comments?

Thanks in advance,
================================================== =========================
Chris

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com