I have owned a couple belt drive lathes, one reeves drive and one
variable drive. As they get more use vibration has been a problem.
I have replaced the belts.

So my question, is the Nova DVD really vibration free and is the
motor/computer reliable?

Thanks to all that respond.

L Bledsoe

Q47m wrote:
I have owned a couple belt drive lathes, one reeves drive and one
variable drive. As they get more use vibration has been a problem.
I have replaced the belts.

So my question, is the Nova DVD really vibration free and is the
motor/computer reliable?

Thanks to all that respond.

L Bledsoe
I have had mine 2 or 3 years. I has been a world of difference from
the reeves drive machine I had. Quiet, vibration free, true variable
speed. Never any problem. I did wire in a remote stop button.

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

Tis better to light a flame thrower
than to curse the darkness.

The vibration can come from a lot of different things. Personally, I
wouldn't have a reeves drive. They always seem to go out or whack. I
have a little experience on a DC motor which is variable speed, and a
lot of esperience on the 3 phase variable speed lathes (8 years on a
PM 3520A and a year on a Robust). I will get to turn on a Nova DVR
next month at our local club meeting. By all accounts I have read, it
is a fine lathe. There is only one thing I don't like about it from
seeing it, and that is the bed sits almost flat on the lathe stand.
There is no room to scoop out shavings that fall inbetween the ways. I
do prefer a sliding headstock to a pivoting one though. Just more
sturdy. I don't think that the belt is usually a contributer to the
vibrations. Usually, sticking out too far, turning too fast with an
unblanced piece of wood, a flimsy, light weight lathe stand, and worn
bearings are the main culprits.
robo hippy

Gerald Ross wrote:
Q47m wrote:
I have owned a couple belt drive lathes, one reeves drive and one
variable drive. As they get more use vibration has been a problem.
I have replaced the belts.

So my question, is the Nova DVD really vibration free and is the
motor/computer reliable?

Thanks to all that respond.

L Bledsoe
I have had mine 2 or 3 years. I has been a world of difference from
the reeves drive machine I had. Quiet, vibration free, true variable
speed. Never any problem. I did wire in a remote stop button.

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

Tis better to light a flame thrower
than to curse the darkness.

On Thu, 19 Mar 2009 13:25:01 -0400, Q47m wrote:

I have owned a couple belt drive lathes, one reeves drive and one
variable drive. As they get more use vibration has been a problem.
I have replaced the belts.

So my question, is the Nova DVD really vibration free and is the
motor/computer reliable?

Thanks to all that respond.

L Bledsoe

I've the DVR XP for a while.. Probably done 200 pieces on it, several of them
pushing the edge towards abuse..
The motor is amazing... Smooth, very quiet and has great torque at all speeds..
The computer that monitors the spindle is incredible... Keeps rpm constant under
load, 3 adjustments for how much of a catch you need to stop the spindle, etc..
I've pushed the limits several times and got what would have been a bad catch on
other lathes.. and all it did was stop the lathe..
Another nice feature of the spindle monitoring is that when it detects a catch
and turns off the power, the spindle then free wheels, so it stops quickly..

Compared to my Jet 1442 with Reeves drive, it's about 10 times smoother and
quieter..
It's very energy efficient and has enough power for me to not convert it to 220v
for the extra 1/4 hp it claims..
Also, your warranty is void if you don't use a surge suppressor and 220v
suppressors are out of my price range..

As Reed said, Reeves drives are problematic.. I was always adjusting, fixing or
just putting up with small problems on the Jet..

Vibration?
The Nova vibrated at certain speeds, but not nearly as much as either of my jet
lathes, which I was very happy with until I got the Nova..
The up & down arrows that adjust the speed by 5 rpm let you find the best speed
for whatever you're doing, allowing you to eliminate a lot of vibration..

My mistake in buying the xp was in getting the "Universal stand"
IMHO, it's a piece of crap and not worthy of such a nice lathe..
I should have bought the cast iron legs, but that would have taken another 4 or
6 weeks to ship and I WANTED the damn lathe ASAP..

I didn't opt for the bed extension, so maybe that contributes to the stand
vibrating, but it's very annoying.. It buzzes and clanks and since I hang a lot
of stuff on magnets, such as the chuck key, it clangs like hell if I don't ease
them onto the magnet..
IMO, there's no substitute for cast iron for absorbing vibration..

Would I spend $2,000 for this lathe again?
In a heartbeat.. YMWV


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

mac davis wrote:
On Thu, 19 Mar 2009 13:25:01 -0400, Q47m wrote:

I have owned a couple belt drive lathes, one reeves drive and one
variable drive. As they get more use vibration has been a problem.
I have replaced the belts.

So my question, is the Nova DVD really vibration free and is the
motor/computer reliable?

Thanks to all that respond.

L Bledsoe

I've had an original DVR and I really like it but there are a few things
to note -

- the computer control is ok but it it's annoying to have to sit there
holding the speed up/down buttons to go from one end of the range to the
other (eg when going from drilling or sanding at low speed to turning at
much higher speeds). I understand that the DVR XP allows you to program
5 preset speeds though, so this won't be as much of a problem.
I'd prefer it if the control panel had a large, raised stop button in
case of emergencies.

- if something goes wrong with the headstock it's possibly going to be
something you can't fix yourself. I've had to send my headstock away for
repair once before and I'm again getting an error state message on the
console (which you should be able to fix by getting rid of dust around
the spindle speed sensor, but I tried that yesterday and it didn't fix it).

One good feature of the lathe is that if you open up the control panel
you can fit a home-made break out box which gives you access to all the
controls when eg. the headstock is rotated or when you're hollowing a
large vessel and you don't want to have to reach round for the controls.
I've heard that Teknatool are working on their own (wireless?) remote
but have heard nothing from them about this in the last year.

As for vibration - I've never really used any other lathe so I can't say
if it's more or less than normal. There are a couple of locations in the
speed range where there's some vibration even with the lathe running
without a load, but 5 or 10 rpm either side it's fine.

We have an original DVR for our club lathe at it always performs well.

If you're not aware - there's a yahoo group at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/teknatool/ and a my family group (I think
you need an invite for this, but just ask if you want one).

Hope that helps

Duncan

--
----------------------------
www.duncanhoyle.com
----------------------------

On Mar 20, 1:36*am, mac davis wrote:
Also, your warranty is void if you don't use asurgesuppressor and 220v
suppressors are out of my price range..

Even the Cutler-Hammer protector (mounts on a breaker box) costs
less than $50 in Lowes.

I owned a DVR for about 5 years. Great lathe. The headstock is well
built and, without any load, it did not vibrate. But I did get some
vibration from the DVR lathe at certain speeds and certain
situations. This was more a problem with the stand that I used and
not the headstock (I used the sheet metal stand made by Nova). I also
had trouble with any piece of wood that was large and/or the least bit
out of round. That is because the machine was not heavy enough for
what I was trying to turn.

I now own a Oneway 2436. I has a belt drive and again, when spinning
without a load there is absolutely no vibraton. It is 900 pounds as
opposed to the DVR's 200 lb. Even though I don't get anywhere near
the vibration problems with the Oneway, with large and/or out of round
logs the fact is vibrations can still be a problem - even with a 900
lb gorilla.

With any lathe their seems to be some RPM's that you will get a
vibration depending on the load and situation. The point is that your
problem is likely more about what you are turning and not a problem
with the DVR.

Ted J.

On Fri, 20 Mar 2009 03:42:37 -0700 (PDT), westom wrote:

On Mar 20, 1:36*am, mac davis wrote:
Also, your warranty is void if you don't use asurgesuppressor and 220v
suppressors are out of my price range..

Even the Cutler-Hammer protector (mounts on a breaker box) costs
less than $50 in Lowes.
translation please,
Is that a 220v surge protector?


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Mar 20, 2:41*pm, mac davis wrote:
*Even the Cutler-Hammer protector (mounts on a breaker box) costs
less than $50 in Lowes.
translation please,
Is that a 220v surge protector?

Yes. Of course. One surge protector for everything including the
dishwasher and your 240 VAC air conditioner. Those also need
protection. "220 volt" protection means one protector for everything
- 120 volt and 240 volts appliances.

Q47m wrote:

Thanks for all the helpful information. Now that Woodcraft has the the
lathe on sale for $1699, I think I'll take the plunge.

Thanks again,

L Bledsoe

I have owned a couple belt drive lathes, one reeves drive and one
variable drive. As they get more use vibration has been a problem.
I have replaced the belts.

So my question, is the Nova DVD really vibration free and is the
motor/computer reliable?

Thanks to all that respond.

L Bledsoe

In article ,
Q47m wrote:

I have owned a couple belt drive lathes, one reeves drive and one
variable drive. As they get more use vibration has been a problem.
I have replaced the belts.

So my question, is the Nova DVD really vibration free and is the
motor/computer reliable?

Thanks to all that respond.

L Bledsoe

A couple more points. The through head is nice for vacuum chucking, but
the factory vacuum adapter prevents the use of the factory knock-out
bar. The "motor stall" on a hard catch is nice, and you can adjust how
hard the stall has to be to stop the lathe (I have left mine at factory).

--
--------------------------------------------------------
Personal e-mail is the n7bsn but at amsat.org
This posting address is a spam-trap and seldom read
RV and Camping FAQ can be found at
http://www.ralphandellen.us/rv

On Fri, 20 Mar 2009 14:37:41 -0700 (PDT), westom wrote:

On Mar 20, 2:41*pm, mac davis wrote:
*Even the Cutler-Hammer protector (mounts on a breaker box) costs
less than $50 in Lowes.
translation please,
Is that a 220v surge protector?

Yes. Of course. One surge protector for everything including the
dishwasher and your 240 VAC air conditioner. Those also need
protection. "220 volt" protection means one protector for everything
- 120 volt and 240 volts appliances.

Wow..very cool...
We have a lot of small power fluctuations here and have surge protectors on most
things..That sounds like a much better way to go!
Thanks..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Sat, 21 Mar 2009 08:06:20 -0700, Ralph E Lindberg wrote:

A couple more points. The through head is nice for vacuum chucking, but
the factory vacuum adapter prevents the use of the factory knock-out
bar.

Funny that you mention that, Ralph...
I didn't realize that since I don't use the Nova bar...
I didn't like the "no-knob" design and use the rod from my Jet 1442, so I never
realized that the one for the lathe didn't fit... must be a smaller diameter..

BTW: I use the vac adapter a lot, but with plastic hose to the vac pump, not a
shop vac as it was apparently designed for.. YMWV


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Mar 21, 11:47 am, mac davis wrote:
We have a lot of small power fluctuations here and have surge protectors on most
things..That sounds like a much better way to go!

Small power fluctuations are ignored by every surge protector AND
are made completely irrelevant by protection inside every appliance.
Get specs for each protector. Not the color glossy sales brochure.
What are numbers for each type of surge? Notice the let-through
voltage: 330 volts. Minor voltage fluctuations never get to 330
volts.

Notice a severe shortage of facts in many protector specifications.
It does not do the many things they got you to believe in a sales
brochure. Brochures make many half truth claims.

Protectors are for making even direct lightning strikes irrelevant.
Any protector that fails even during a direct lightning strike was not
effective. Protectors for direct lightning are also for lesser
transients. So that transients do not overwhelm protection found
inside every appliance. That is what the one 'whole house' protectors
does. But only more responsible manufacturers sell 'whole house'
protectors.

As true for every protector, it will only be as effective as the
quality of and distance to its earthing electrode. Just another
reason why that Cutler-Hammer product sold in Lowes for less than $50
is so effective. An effective protector means protection for all 120
and 240 volt appliances.

Ralph E Lindberg wrote:
In article ,
Q47m wrote:

I have owned a couple belt drive lathes, one reeves drive and one
variable drive. As they get more use vibration has been a problem.
I have replaced the belts.

So my question, is the Nova DVD really vibration free and is the
motor/computer reliable?

Thanks to all that respond.

L Bledsoe

A couple more points. The through head is nice for vacuum chucking, but
the factory vacuum adapter prevents the use of the factory knock-out
bar. The "motor stall" on a hard catch is nice, and you can adjust how
hard the stall has to be to stop the lathe (I have left mine at factory).


The vacuum adapter can be quickly removed by loosening one setscrew. I
keep the allen wrench for it stuck to a magnet on the motor housing

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

One who has both feet on the ground is
not moving forward.

mac davis wrote:
On Sat, 21 Mar 2009 08:06:20 -0700, Ralph E Lindberg wrote:

A couple more points. The through head is nice for vacuum chucking, but
the factory vacuum adapter prevents the use of the factory knock-out
bar.

Funny that you mention that, Ralph...
I didn't realize that since I don't use the Nova bar...
I didn't like the "no-knob" design and use the rod from my Jet 1442, so I never
realized that the one for the lathe didn't fit... must be a smaller diameter..

BTW: I use the vac adapter a lot, but with plastic hose to the vac pump, not a
shop vac as it was apparently designed for.. YMWV

I epoxied an air hose quick-connect into the bearing on mine, and the
knockout bar won't go through that for certain. :)
--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

One who has both feet on the ground is
not moving forward.

westom wrote:
On Mar 21, 11:47 am, mac davis wrote:
We have a lot of small power fluctuations here and have surge protectors on most
things..That sounds like a much better way to go!

The best information on surges and surge protection I have seen is at:
http://www.mikeholt.com/files/PDF/LightningGuide_FINALpublishedversion_May051.pdf
- "How to protect your house and its contents from lightning: IEEE guide
for surge protection of equipment connected to AC power and
communication circuits" published by the IEEE in 2005 (the IEEE is the
major organization of electrical and electronic engineers in the US).
And also:
http://www.nist.gov/public_affairs/practiceguides/surgesfnl.pdf
- "NIST recommended practice guide: Surges Happen!: how to protect the
appliances in your home" published by the US National Institute of
Standards and Technology in 2001

The IEEE guide is aimed at those with some technical background. The
NIST guide is aimed at the unwashed masses.

That is what the one 'whole house' protectors
does.

Service panel suppressors are a good idea.
But from the NIST guide:
"Q - Will a surge protector installed at the service entrance be
sufficient for the whole house?
A - There are two answers to than question: Yes for one-link appliances
[electronic equipment], No for two-link appliances [equipment connected
to power AND phone or cable or....]. Since most homes today have some
kind of two-link appliances, the prudent answer to the question would be
NO - but that does not mean that a surge protector installed at the
service entrance is useless."

The NIST guide suggests most equipment damage is from high voltage
between power and phone/cable wires. That is primarily computers (with
phone connection) and TV/related equipment (with cable connection).

Service panel suppressors do not prevent high voltages from developing
between power and signal wires. To limit the voltage you need a *short*
wire connecting the cable/phone entrance protectors to the "ground" at
the power service. A ground wire that is too long is illustrated in the
IEEE guide starting pdf page 40.

For equipment with just power connections, like a lathe, a service panel
suppressor should provide good protection.

But only more responsible manufacturers sell 'whole house'
protectors.

Most "responsible manufacturers" that make service panel suppressors
also make plug-in suppressors.

As true for every protector, it will only be as effective as the
quality of and distance to its earthing electrode.

w believes that surge protection must directly use earthing. Thus in
his view plug-in suppressors (which are not well earthed) can not
possibly work. The IEEE guide explains plug-in suppressors work by
clamping (limiting) the voltage on all wires (signal and power) to the
common ground at the suppressor. Plug-in suppressors do not work
primarily by earthing (or stopping or absorbing). The guide explains
earthing occurs elsewhere. (Read the guide starting pdf page 40).

Note that if you are using a plug-in suppressor, all interconnected
equipment needs to be connected to the same suppressor. External
connections, like phone, also need to go through the suppressor.
Connecting all wiring through the suppressor prevents damaging voltages
between power and signal wires.

w is a well know internet nut that searches google-groups for "surge"
to post his beliefs. Some of what he says is very good. Some is nonsense.

Both the IEEE and NIST guides say plug-in suppressors are effective.

--
bud--

On Sat, 21 Mar 2009 14:11:00 -0400, Gerald Ross wrote:

BTW: I use the vac adapter a lot, but with plastic hose to the vac pump, not a
shop vac as it was apparently designed for.. YMWV

I epoxied an air hose quick-connect into the bearing on mine, and the
knockout bar won't go through that for certain. :)

Good point.. I've never used a knockout bar when the vac adapter is on, not only
because of the hose, but what would I knock out??
I guess some folks leave the adapter on all the time?


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Sat, 21 Mar 2009 14:08:27 -0400, Gerald Ross wrote:


The vacuum adapter can be quickly removed by loosening one setscrew. I
keep the allen wrench for it stuck to a magnet on the motor housing

I'm a bit worried about magnets near the computer, so all my stuff like that is
on magnets on the stand or bed rails..
My adapter hangs on my DC hose and the wrench & set screw are on a magnet..

Have you heard anything about Nova developing a remote switch like you made?
The more "sit down hollowing" I do, the more I'd like to not have to reach over
a spinning chunk of wood to turn the lathe off...


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

mac davis wrote:

Have you heard anything about Nova developing a remote switch like you made?
The more "sit down hollowing" I do, the more I'd like to not have to reach over
a spinning chunk of wood to turn the lathe off...


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Despite having made one for myself (and it working well), I've contacted
Teknatool several times in the past about the possibility of them
producing their own.
When I last asked them about it (early 2007) there was one mentioned on
the website, but I've had a quick look and couldn't find it. At the time
they told me that it was a work in progress and almost ready.
When I didn't hear anything further I gave up asking. I vaguely remember
reading somewhere that it was going to be wireless - which would be
nice, but probably expensive.
If you have some basic soldering skills the DIY version is relatively
easy to make but it involves opening up the control box and
unplugging/plugging cables. When I was building mine I got connections
the wrong way round and it didn't do any damage (maybe I was lucky).

I've mailed them a couple of times about a possible upgrade from my
DVR3000 to the DVRXP control software/board (to give me access to the
new functions). I haven't had any response yet.

Duncan

--
----------------------------
www.duncanhoyle.com
----------------------------

Duncan Hoyle wrote:
mac davis wrote:

Have you heard anything about Nova developing a remote switch like you made?
The more "sit down hollowing" I do, the more I'd like to not have to reach over
a spinning chunk of wood to turn the lathe off...


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Despite having made one for myself (and it working well), I've contacted
Teknatool several times in the past about the possibility of them
producing their own.
When I last asked them about it (early 2007) there was one mentioned on
the website, but I've had a quick look and couldn't find it. At the time
they told me that it was a work in progress and almost ready.
When I didn't hear anything further I gave up asking. I vaguely remember
reading somewhere that it was going to be wireless - which would be
nice, but probably expensive.
If you have some basic soldering skills the DIY version is relatively
easy to make but it involves opening up the control box and
unplugging/plugging cables. When I was building mine I got connections
the wrong way round and it didn't do any damage (maybe I was lucky).

I've mailed them a couple of times about a possible upgrade from my
DVR3000 to the DVRXP control software/board (to give me access to the
new functions). I haven't had any response yet.

Duncan

I never had any luck emailing them either. You might try Tim Geist if
you haven't already.

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

Going the speed of light is bad for
your age.

On Mar 22, 12:14*pm, mac davis wrote:

I'm a bit worried about magnets near the computer, so all my stuff like that is
on magnets on the stand or bed rails..

Should not be an issue, the local field (generated by the DVR motor)
is not effected by any of those small "
dot" magnets. Even the really powerful rare-earth type.
That might not be true of the large/hugely powerful 10,000 gauss
magnets

Have you heard anything about Nova developing a remote switch like you made?

Late last year I did a "search" of the Teknatool web-site and
noticed that all references to the "forth coming" remote. My guess is
the project got dropped

On Sun, 22 Mar 2009 17:21:51 -0400, Gerald Ross wrote:


I've mailed them a couple of times about a possible upgrade from my
DVR3000 to the DVRXP control software/board (to give me access to the
new functions). I haven't had any response yet.

Duncan

I never had any luck emailing them either. You might try Tim Geist if
you haven't already.

Try this one, he's been very good to me and usually responds within 12 hours:
"Fan Huang"

I just ordered a part that isn't on their parts order page.. He was very
helpful..
($8 shipping on a $2 part, but not his fault)

He was also the one that answered a few questions for me when I was shopping for
the XP.... Like min. speed of 100 rpm and stuff..
Still seems silly, but I guess it's the magnetic rotor or whatever.. would be
nice to have a zero or 100 low rpm..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"snip-------------------------
He was also the one that answered a few questions for me when I was
shopping for
the XP.... Like min. speed of 100 rpm and stuff..
Still seems silly, but I guess it's the magnetic rotor or whatever.. would
be
nice to have a zero or 100 low rpm..


mac



zero isn't all that useful, just turn the power off, but 5 or 10 RPM is
useful - I use that speed a lot to dry lacquer. But, with a direct drive
system,that means the motor needs to turn at that speed, and that poses some
challenges.

There are a couple of advantages to a belt drive - one is that the motor can
turn faster than the spindle, so you can get torque multiplication, and
another is that you get vibration isolation from the motor - not much of an
issue with a decent motor for wood turning

mac davis wrote:
On Sun, 22 Mar 2009 17:21:51 -0400, Gerald Ross wrote:


I've mailed them a couple of times about a possible upgrade from my
DVR3000 to the DVRXP control software/board (to give me access to the
new functions). I haven't had any response yet.

Duncan

I never had any luck emailing them either. You might try Tim Geist if
you haven't already.

Try this one, he's been very good to me and usually responds within 12 hours:
"Fan Huang"

I just ordered a part that isn't on their parts order page.. He was very
helpful..
($8 shipping on a $2 part, but not his fault)

He was also the one that answered a few questions for me when I was shopping for
the XP.... Like min. speed of 100 rpm and stuff..
Still seems silly, but I guess it's the magnetic rotor or whatever.. would be
nice to have a zero or 100 low rpm..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Thanks, but that was who I emailed the last couple of times. He was
prompt in replying to the questions about the new bed extension (which,
annoyingly, doesn't attach to the old bed).
It's not exactly urgent, but I'll try again.

Duncan

--
----------------------------
www.duncanhoyle.com
----------------------------

On Mon, 23 Mar 2009 21:38:57 -0700, "Bill Noble" wrote:


"snip-------------------------
He was also the one that answered a few questions for me when I was
shopping for
the XP.... Like min. speed of 100 rpm and stuff..
Still seems silly, but I guess it's the magnetic rotor or whatever.. would
be
nice to have a zero or 100 low rpm..


mac



zero isn't all that useful, just turn the power off, but 5 or 10 RPM is
useful - I use that speed a lot to dry lacquer. But, with a direct drive
system,that means the motor needs to turn at that speed, and that poses some
challenges.

There are a couple of advantages to a belt drive - one is that the motor can
turn faster than the spindle, so you can get torque multiplication, and
another is that you get vibration isolation from the motor - not much of an
issue with a decent motor for wood turning

Yeah, that was sort of what he said, Bill...
The low speed of 100 rpm is fine, but you always want more than you get, right?
Also, the more I read about HOW the motor works in this thing, the more I'm
impressed.. No windings? Weird!


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 23 Mar 2009 21:38:57 -0700, "Bill Noble"
wrote:

nice to have a zero or 100 low rpm..


mac



zero isn't all that useful, just turn the power off, but 5 or 10 RPM is
useful - I use that speed a lot to dry lacquer. But, with a direct drive
system,that means the motor needs to turn at that speed, and that poses
some
challenges.

There are a couple of advantages to a belt drive - one is that the motor
can
turn faster than the spindle, so you can get torque multiplication, and
another is that you get vibration isolation from the motor - not much of
an
issue with a decent motor for wood turning

Yeah, that was sort of what he said, Bill...
The low speed of 100 rpm is fine, but you always want more than you get,
right?
Also, the more I read about HOW the motor works in this thing, the more
I'm
impressed.. No windings? Weird!


mac


I just read what was posted on the Nova site about this motor - I don't see
anything amazing, it looks like, and is described like a standard stepper
motor, and not a very fancy one at that - these kinds of motors are very
common - though perhaps not on a wood lathe. The 100 RPM limit is probably
due to the design of the motor - it looks like the armature has 8 poles, so
it is probably an artifice to avoid "cogging" - the motor is actually
turning in steps of maybe 1/8 or 1/16 th of a turn - below 100 RPM those
steps may become noticable enough to bother the turner or to cause some
effect on the turned result - for example, at 60 RPM you would be having 8
steps per second - that would be quite visible.

There is a significant amount of "gee wiz" type snake oil in that motor
description - that doesn't make it bad, but does mean that you don't fall in
love with the words. If the lathe works for you, then great.

Reading the description, I think I would not like it - I would want a knob
to set speed, I would want the very slow minimum speed, and I would want a
lower tech motor so I could replace it or the controller if there were a
problem. But then, that is me and many folks are different....

mac davis writes:

Try this one, he's been very good to me and usually responds within 12 hours:
"Fan Huang" FanHuang AT SIGN teknatool.com

Hey dude - it's not cool to post people's e-mail addresses on USENET.
I know from experience that spammers search for these nuggets to find
new targets.

My work address gets NO SPAM because I keep it private. I get real
****ed if this changed. (like yesterday).