So many of the anti-mould paints are not overpaintable. Looking online
today I see that there are a lot of options that are said to be not
overpaintable. There are some that don't specify this feature one way
or another. I haven't spotted one yet that claims specifically to be
overpaintable.

The best I've seen so far is this offering because at least it has
lots of colour options:

https://www.decoratingwarehouse.co.u...-mould-acrylic

What is the most sensible procedure for dealing with this mould
problem?
--

Mike

On 22/11/2019 14:14, Mike Halmarack wrote:
So many of the anti-mould paints are not overpaintable. Looking online
today I see that there are a lot of options that are said to be not
overpaintable. There are some that don't specify this feature one way
or another. I haven't spotted one yet that claims specifically to be
overpaintable.

The best I've seen so far is this offering because at least it has
lots of colour options:

https://www.decoratingwarehouse.co.u...-mould-acrylic

What is the most sensible procedure for dealing with this mould
problem?



--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 22/11/2019 14:14, Mike Halmarack wrote:
So many of the anti-mould paints are not overpaintable. Looking online
today I see that there are a lot of options that are said to be not
overpaintable. There are some that don't specify this feature one way
or another. I haven't spotted one yet that claims specifically to be
overpaintable.

Zinsser as sold by Screwfix/Toolstation

https://www.zinsseruk.com/howto/how-...nt-over-mould/

https://letsremovemold.com/painting-...ld-to-kill-it/


--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

What is causing the mould. That is the question.
The problem is that the spores will just seed somewhere else usually and so
the main thing is to find the damp source and stop it first.
Brian

--
----- --
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"Mike Halmarack" wrote in message
...
So many of the anti-mould paints are not overpaintable. Looking online
today I see that there are a lot of options that are said to be not
overpaintable. There are some that don't specify this feature one way
or another. I haven't spotted one yet that claims specifically to be
overpaintable.

The best I've seen so far is this offering because at least it has
lots of colour options:

https://www.decoratingwarehouse.co.u...-mould-acrylic

What is the most sensible procedure for dealing with this mould
problem?
--

Mike

On Fri, 22 Nov 2019 21:16:46 -0000, "Brian Gaff \(Sofa\)"
wrote:

What is causing the mould. That is the question.
The problem is that the spores will just seed somewhere else usually and so
the main thing is to find the damp source and stop it first.
Brian

The main contributor seems to be condensation.
Recently moved into an electric only flat and are waiting to see our
first bill that includes heating, before investing in electrical
solutions like dehumidifiers or powered extractors.

Having bought anti mould spray from Lidl and then treated the
offending patches to a double dose, it may be that ordinary emulsion
would be sufficient to cover the treated areas.

The idea of now painting these areas with anti mould paint may be
considered as a belt and braces approach but I wouldn't want to be
spraying unpleasant chemicals around the place too often in future.

As some of the affected rooms are decorated with different colours,
I'd prefer not to buy multiple pots of different coloured anti mould
paint, which are available.

Just one colour that was overpaintable with ordinary emulsion would be
preferable.
--

Mike

On Fri, 22 Nov 2019 14:51:31 +0000, alan_m
wrote:

On 22/11/2019 14:14, Mike Halmarack wrote:
So many of the anti-mould paints are not overpaintable. Looking online
today I see that there are a lot of options that are said to be not
overpaintable. There are some that don't specify this feature one way
or another. I haven't spotted one yet that claims specifically to be
overpaintable.

Zinsser as sold by Screwfix/Toolstation

https://www.zinsseruk.com/howto/how-...nt-over-mould/

https://letsremovemold.com/painting-...ld-to-kill-it/

Not being a professional and also a bit lapsadaisical I tend to get a
bit scared off by information that would have me buy a large range of
items to do one job. I realise that mixing and matching is a
possibility. But these articles usually advise or imply the need for
caution in straying from the branded list.
--

Mike

In message , Mike Halmarack
writes
On Fri, 22 Nov 2019 21:16:46 -0000, "Brian Gaff \(Sofa\)"
wrote:

What is causing the mould. That is the question.
The problem is that the spores will just seed somewhere else usually and so
the main thing is to find the damp source and stop it first.
Brian

The main contributor seems to be condensation.
Recently moved into an electric only flat and are waiting to see our
first bill that includes heating, before investing in electrical
solutions like dehumidifiers or powered extractors.

Might be useful to discuss the problem with neighbours in similar flats.

Way back we had a thread on extract heat recovery. This was related to
issues of condensation in a North facing, 60's build, uninsulated cavity
wall block.

Where clothes drying, excessive showering, cooking etc. put lots of
moisture into the air which promptly condensed on the cold upper parts
of the North walls.

Luckily the flats were commonhold and nobody objected to us putting in a
central heat recovery system plus extractors for bathroom and cooker
hood.

Having bought anti mould spray from Lidl and then treated the
offending patches to a double dose, it may be that ordinary emulsion
would be sufficient to cover the treated areas.

The idea of now painting these areas with anti mould paint may be
considered as a belt and braces approach but I wouldn't want to be
spraying unpleasant chemicals around the place too often in future.

As some of the affected rooms are decorated with different colours,
I'd prefer not to buy multiple pots of different coloured anti mould
paint, which are available.

Just one colour that was overpaintable with ordinary emulsion would be
preferable.

--
Tim Lamb

On Friday, 22 November 2019 14:14:43 UTC, Mike Halmarack wrote:

What is the most sensible procedure for dealing with this mould
problem?

The absence of any details whatsoever is more than a bit limiting. Given that I can only mention the most commonly effective approaches, dehumidifier & reducing excess steam output when cooking. More ventilation sometimes suffices.


NT

On Saturday, 23 November 2019 08:50:45 UTC, Mike Halmarack wrote:
On Fri, 22 Nov 2019 21:16:46 -0000, "Brian Gaff \(Sofa\)"
wrote:

What is causing the mould. That is the question.
The problem is that the spores will just seed somewhere else usually and so
the main thing is to find the damp source and stop it first.
Brian

The main contributor seems to be condensation.

symptom rather than cause

Recently moved into an electric only flat and are waiting to see our
first bill that includes heating, before investing in electrical
solutions like dehumidifiers or powered extractors.

if you have a damp problem you need to get on & tackle it or things often go very much downhill

Having bought anti mould spray from Lidl

usually those are bleach

and then treated the
offending patches to a double dose, it may be that ordinary emulsion
would be sufficient to cover the treated areas.

The idea of now painting these areas with anti mould paint may be
considered as a belt and braces approach but I wouldn't want to be
spraying unpleasant chemicals around the place too often in future.

Antimould paint is not a solution, but it can help with an otherwise almost adequate approach. 2ndly there is no need ot use nasty chemicals, aspirin, borax etc are fine. Even bleach is enough in the mildest cases.


As some of the affected rooms are decorated with different colours,
I'd prefer not to buy multiple pots of different coloured anti mould
paint, which are available.

Just one colour that was overpaintable with ordinary emulsion would be
preferable.

Not mixing the mould killer into paint is often a better approach.


NT

On Saturday, 23 November 2019 08:58:22 UTC, Mike Halmarack wrote:
On Fri, 22 Nov 2019 14:51:31 +0000, alan_m
wrote:
On 22/11/2019 14:14, Mike Halmarack wrote:

So many of the anti-mould paints are not overpaintable. Looking online
today I see that there are a lot of options that are said to be not
overpaintable. There are some that don't specify this feature one way
or another. I haven't spotted one yet that claims specifically to be
overpaintable.

Zinsser as sold by Screwfix/Toolstation

https://www.zinsseruk.com/howto/how-...nt-over-mould/

https://letsremovemold.com/painting-...ld-to-kill-it/

Not being a professional and also a bit lapsadaisical I tend to get a
bit scared off by information that would have me buy a large range of
items to do one job. I realise that mixing and matching is a
possibility. But these articles usually advise or imply the need for
caution in straying from the branded list.

too much misinformation on the 2nd link. The 1st is honest enough to admit that you need to sort the problem out first, painting is cosmetic.


NT

On 23/11/2019 08:50, Mike Halmarack wrote:

Having bought anti mould spray from Lidl and then treated the
offending patches to a double dose, it may be that ordinary emulsion
would be sufficient to cover the treated areas.

If its condensation and not damp penetration then one of the ordinary
paints designed for kitchen/bathroom wetter areas use would suffice. If
you still have any staining after dealing with the mould then I would
recommend a paint designed for sealing the area first or you may/will
find that the stain bleeding through your new paint.
I've used Zinsser 1-2-3 sealers with success and then used a paint of my
choice over the top.

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On Sat, 23 Nov 2019 01:26:28 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Friday, 22 November 2019 14:14:43 UTC, Mike Halmarack wrote:

What is the most sensible procedure for dealing with this mould
problem?

The absence of any details whatsoever is more than a bit limiting. Given that I can only mention the most commonly effective approaches, dehumidifier & reducing excess steam output when cooking. More ventilation sometimes suffices.


NT
I did add a bit more detail in response to Brian Gaff's post. This
combined with my original post is all I know about the situation.
I was hoping that a few responses would throw a bit of light, which it
has.
I'll certainly be considering a dehumidifier if the next leccy bill
doesn't break the bank. My wife is a steamed food fan, which I'm sure
has an effect.
--

Mike

On 23/11/2019 09:32, wrote:


Not mixing the mould killer into paint is often a better approach.


Don't you mean mixing mould killer into the paint would be better

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...esistant_Paint




--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On Sat, 23 Nov 2019 09:23:27 +0000, Tim Lamb
wrote:

In message , Mike Halmarack
writes
On Fri, 22 Nov 2019 21:16:46 -0000, "Brian Gaff \(Sofa\)"
wrote:

What is causing the mould. That is the question.
The problem is that the spores will just seed somewhere else usually and so
the main thing is to find the damp source and stop it first.
Brian

The main contributor seems to be condensation.
Recently moved into an electric only flat and are waiting to see our
first bill that includes heating, before investing in electrical
solutions like dehumidifiers or powered extractors.

Might be useful to discuss the problem with neighbours in similar flats.

Discussed it with a few, who have had similar problems.

Way back we had a thread on extract heat recovery. This was related to
issues of condensation in a North facing, 60's build, uninsulated cavity
wall block.
The kitchen, which is the worst affected room, is north facing, 70's
build, with uninsulated cavity.
Where clothes drying, excessive showering, cooking etc. put lots of
moisture into the air which promptly condensed on the cold upper parts
of the North walls.

That certainly rings a bell.

Luckily the flats were commonhold and nobody objected to us putting in a
central heat recovery system plus extractors for bathroom and cooker
hood.

These flats have a jointly held freehold which sounds quite similar.
Getting consensual agreement is said to be tricky though.
Maybe the AGM is the time and place.

The extraction used on the existing Electrolux cooker hood stops at
the activated carbon filters contained within.

I don't know the model name and number of this cooker hood. Nothing
immediately visible. It may be that its current setup can easily be
modified to connect a vent pipe leading to an as yet non existent hole
in the wall. Maybe A ZipUp tower and a diamond hole cutter will
suffice for that. I've done such things before in my earlier DIY days.
Someone else will have to do it this time.


Having bought anti mould spray from Lidl and then treated the
offending patches to a double dose, it may be that ordinary emulsion
would be sufficient to cover the treated areas.

The idea of now painting these areas with anti mould paint may be
considered as a belt and braces approach but I wouldn't want to be
spraying unpleasant chemicals around the place too often in future.

As some of the affected rooms are decorated with different colours,
I'd prefer not to buy multiple pots of different coloured anti mould
paint, which are available.

Just one colour that was overpaintable with ordinary emulsion would be
preferable.
--

Mike

On Sat, 23 Nov 2019 10:14:22 +0000, alan_m
wrote:

On 23/11/2019 08:50, Mike Halmarack wrote:

Having bought anti mould spray from Lidl and then treated the
offending patches to a double dose, it may be that ordinary emulsion
would be sufficient to cover the treated areas.

If its condensation and not damp penetration then one of the ordinary
paints designed for kitchen/bathroom wetter areas use would suffice. If
you still have any staining after dealing with the mould then I would
recommend a paint designed for sealing the area first or you may/will
find that the stain bleeding through your new paint.
I've used Zinsser 1-2-3 sealers with success and then used a paint of my
choice over the top.

Sounds like good advice, I'll look into that. Thanks.
--

Mike

On 23/11/2019 10:40, Mike Halmarack wrote:
On Sat, 23 Nov 2019 09:23:27 +0000, Tim Lamb
wrote:

In message , Mike Halmarack
writes
On Fri, 22 Nov 2019 21:16:46 -0000, "Brian Gaff \(Sofa\)"
wrote:

What is causing the mould. That is the question.
The problem is that the spores will just seed somewhere else usually and so
the main thing is to find the damp source and stop it first.
Brian

The main contributor seems to be condensation.
Recently moved into an electric only flat and are waiting to see our
first bill that includes heating, before investing in electrical
solutions like dehumidifiers or powered extractors.

Might be useful to discuss the problem with neighbours in similar flats.

Discussed it with a few, who have had similar problems.

The best time to do this is before you buy the place :-)

At the end of the day it boils down to lack of insulation and/or
not enough heat and/or ventilation.

Way back we had a thread on extract heat recovery. This was related to
issues of condensation in a North facing, 60's build, uninsulated cavity
wall block.
The kitchen, which is the worst affected room, is north facing, 70's
build, with uninsulated cavity.
Where clothes drying, excessive showering, cooking etc. put lots of
moisture into the air which promptly condensed on the cold upper parts
of the North walls.

That certainly rings a bell.

Luckily the flats were commonhold and nobody objected to us putting in a
central heat recovery system plus extractors for bathroom and cooker
hood.

These flats have a jointly held freehold which sounds quite similar.
Getting consensual agreement is said to be tricky though.
Maybe the AGM is the time and place.

The extraction used on the existing Electrolux cooker hood stops at
the activated carbon filters contained within.

I don't know the model name and number of this cooker hood. Nothing
immediately visible. It may be that its current setup can easily be
modified to connect a vent pipe leading to an as yet non existent hole
in the wall. Maybe A ZipUp tower and a diamond hole cutter will
suffice for that. I've done such things before in my earlier DIY days.
Someone else will have to do it this time.

snip

On Sat, 23 Nov 2019 14:39:28 +0000, Andrew
wrote:

On 23/11/2019 10:40, Mike Halmarack wrote:
On Sat, 23 Nov 2019 09:23:27 +0000, Tim Lamb
wrote:

In message , Mike Halmarack
writes
On Fri, 22 Nov 2019 21:16:46 -0000, "Brian Gaff \(Sofa\)"
wrote:

What is causing the mould. That is the question.
The problem is that the spores will just seed somewhere else usually and so
the main thing is to find the damp source and stop it first.
Brian

The main contributor seems to be condensation.
Recently moved into an electric only flat and are waiting to see our
first bill that includes heating, before investing in electrical
solutions like dehumidifiers or powered extractors.

Might be useful to discuss the problem with neighbours in similar flats.

Discussed it with a few, who have had similar problems.

The best time to do this is before you buy the place :-)

That is so true. I never did perfect my property buying skills and
it's unlikely that there'll be many more practice opportunities.

That's why I find uk.diy such a help. There's a lot of knowlege
generously offered here, that often compensates for my lack of
expertise.


At the end of the day it boils down to lack of insulation and/or
not enough heat and/or ventilation.

All of those for sure, though I'm hoping to overcome some of them and
there are some positive aspect to the place. Quiet, by the sea, no
passing traffic but very close to a mainr bus route. Short walking
distance to the town and several big supermarkets.

This isn't a sales pitch, by the way :-)
Even I wouldn't mistakenly introduce black mould as a feature of one
of those.

Way back we had a thread on extract heat recovery. This was related to
issues of condensation in a North facing, 60's build, uninsulated cavity
wall block.
The kitchen, which is the worst affected room, is north facing, 70's
build, with uninsulated cavity.
Where clothes drying, excessive showering, cooking etc. put lots of
moisture into the air which promptly condensed on the cold upper parts
of the North walls.

That certainly rings a bell.

Luckily the flats were commonhold and nobody objected to us putting in a
central heat recovery system plus extractors for bathroom and cooker
hood.

These flats have a jointly held freehold which sounds quite similar.
Getting consensual agreement is said to be tricky though.
Maybe the AGM is the time and place.

The extraction used on the existing Electrolux cooker hood stops at
the activated carbon filters contained within.

I don't know the model name and number of this cooker hood. Nothing
immediately visible. It may be that its current setup can easily be
modified to connect a vent pipe leading to an as yet non existent hole
in the wall. Maybe A ZipUp tower and a diamond hole cutter will
suffice for that. I've done such things before in my earlier DIY days.
Someone else will have to do it this time.

snip
--

Mike

On 24/11/2019 08:13, Mike Halmarack wrote:
On Sat, 23 Nov 2019 14:39:28 +0000, Andrew
wrote:

On 23/11/2019 10:40, Mike Halmarack wrote:
On Sat, 23 Nov 2019 09:23:27 +0000, Tim Lamb
wrote:

In message , Mike Halmarack
writes
On Fri, 22 Nov 2019 21:16:46 -0000, "Brian Gaff \(Sofa\)"
wrote:

What is causing the mould. That is the question.
The problem is that the spores will just seed somewhere else usually and so
the main thing is to find the damp source and stop it first.
Brian

The main contributor seems to be condensation.
Recently moved into an electric only flat and are waiting to see our
first bill that includes heating, before investing in electrical
solutions like dehumidifiers or powered extractors.

Might be useful to discuss the problem with neighbours in similar flats.

Discussed it with a few, who have had similar problems.

The best time to do this is before you buy the place :-)

That is so true. I never did perfect my property buying skills and
it's unlikely that there'll be many more practice opportunities.

That's why I find uk.diy such a help. There's a lot of knowlege
generously offered here, that often compensates for my lack of
expertise.


At the end of the day it boils down to lack of insulation and/or
not enough heat and/or ventilation.

All of those for sure, though I'm hoping to overcome some of them and
there are some positive aspect to the place. Quiet, by the sea, no
passing traffic but very close to a mainr bus route. Short walking
distance to the town and several big supermarkets.


Ahh, by the sea. So possibly a humid atmosphere too. Is this
a south coast location or somewhere where the winter air can be
a bit more 'bracing' ?.

Is this one those buildings that had cavity walls, but with stonking
big vents allowing a howling gale to whistle through the cavity ?.
Many houses were built like this in the 1950's and 60's,
so you are effectively living in a property with a single brick
skin separating your habitable space from the outside air. Plus
add on solid concrete floors/ceilings where that slab extends out
to the outside giving another nasty cold-radiator effect.


This isn't a sales pitch, by the way :-)
Even I wouldn't mistakenly introduce black mould as a feature of one
of those.

snip

On Sun, 24 Nov 2019 11:54:02 +0000, Andrew
wrote:

snip

there are some positive aspect to the place. Quiet, by the sea, no
passing traffic but very close to a mainr bus route. Short walking
distance to the town and several big supermarkets.


Ahh, by the sea. So possibly a humid atmosphere too. Is this
a south coast location or somewhere where the winter air can be
a bit more 'bracing' ?.

Interesting that you should ask. It's even more southerly than much of
the south coast. BUT around the back, where the rotary washing lines
are it's known locally as Pneumonia Alley. This is mainly because
we're on a cliff with very little sheltering terrain around. Possibly
there are other contributory factors too, like lots of oldies prone to
such negative effects.

Is this one those buildings that had cavity walls, but with stonking
big vents allowing a howling gale to whistle through the cavity ?.

Yes indeed and also the wind and rain drives in so hard it precludes
the addition of cavity wall insulation I'm told.

Many houses were built like this in the 1950's and 60's,
so you are effectively living in a property with a single brick
skin separating your habitable space from the outside air. Plus
add on solid concrete floors/ceilings where that slab extends out
to the outside giving another nasty cold-radiator effect.

Cor lummy guv! The for sale sign goes up first thing tomorrow morning.

And I thought my only problem was black mould.

This isn't a sales pitch, by the way :-)
Even I wouldn't mistakenly introduce black mould as a feature of one
of those.

snip

On Saturday, 23 November 2019 10:19:43 UTC, alan_m wrote:
On 23/11/2019 09:32, tabbypurr wrote:


Not mixing the mould killer into paint is often a better approach.


Don't you mean mixing mould killer into the paint would be better

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...esistant_Paint

if I meant that I'd have said it.


NT

On Saturday, 23 November 2019 10:40:19 UTC, Mike Halmarack wrote:
On Sat, 23 Nov 2019 09:23:27 +0000, Tim Lamb
wrote:
In message , Mike Halmarack
writes
On Fri, 22 Nov 2019 21:16:46 -0000, "Brian Gaff \(Sofa\)"
wrote:

Might be useful to discuss the problem with neighbours in similar flats.

Discussed it with a few, who have had similar problems.

Way back we had a thread on extract heat recovery. This was related to
issues of condensation in a North facing, 60's build, uninsulated cavity
wall block.
The kitchen, which is the worst affected room, is north facing, 70's
build, with uninsulated cavity.

sounds like a good opportunity, CWI could help there. You'll still need to get rid of excess damp though.

Where clothes drying, excessive showering, cooking etc. put lots of
moisture into the air which promptly condensed on the cold upper parts
of the North walls.

That certainly rings a bell.

Luckily the flats were commonhold and nobody objected to us putting in a
central heat recovery system plus extractors for bathroom and cooker
hood.

These flats have a jointly held freehold which sounds quite similar.
Getting consensual agreement is said to be tricky though.
Maybe the AGM is the time and place.

The extraction used on the existing Electrolux cooker hood stops at
the activated carbon filters contained within.

I don't know the model name and number of this cooker hood. Nothing
immediately visible. It may be that its current setup can easily be
modified to connect a vent pipe leading to an as yet non existent hole
in the wall. Maybe A ZipUp tower and a diamond hole cutter will
suffice for that. I've done such things before in my earlier DIY days.
Someone else will have to do it this time.

holes can be cut from indoors only - debris can fall out of course so some cordoning may be needed. A dehumidifier is generally cheaper though.

It puzzles me how many people produce tons of steam when cooking. Learning not to is trivial.


NT

On Sunday, 24 November 2019 08:13:21 UTC, Mike Halmarack wrote:
On Sat, 23 Nov 2019 14:39:28 +0000, Andrew
wrote:

At the end of the day it boils down to lack of insulation and/or
not enough heat and/or ventilation.

In a 70s build I wouldn't usually expect those to be the problems, though can sometimes be. Excess water vapour dumping is more likely the prime problem. If the place has been overenthusiastically sealed up later then ventilation can be an issue.


NT

On Sunday, 24 November 2019 14:31:27 UTC, Mike Halmarack wrote:
On Sun, 24 Nov 2019 11:54:02 +0000, Andrew
wrote:

snip

there are some positive aspect to the place. Quiet, by the sea, no
passing traffic but very close to a mainr bus route. Short walking
distance to the town and several big supermarkets.


Ahh, by the sea. So possibly a humid atmosphere too. Is this
a south coast location or somewhere where the winter air can be
a bit more 'bracing' ?.

Interesting that you should ask. It's even more southerly than much of
the south coast. BUT around the back, where the rotary washing lines
are it's known locally as Pneumonia Alley. This is mainly because
we're on a cliff with very little sheltering terrain around. Possibly
there are other contributory factors too, like lots of oldies prone to
such negative effects.

Is this one those buildings that had cavity walls, but with stonking
big vents allowing a howling gale to whistle through the cavity ?.

Yes indeed and also the wind and rain drives in so hard it precludes
the addition of cavity wall insulation I'm told.

Ah. There are a couple of other options.


NT

On Sat, 23 Nov 2019 01:32:48 -0800 (PST), wrote:

snip
if you have a damp problem you need to get on & tackle it or things often go very much downhill

More a case of over the cliff here.

Having bought anti mould spray from Lidl

usually those are bleach

This one is said to contain N-alky( C12-16)-N,
NDimethyl-N-benzyl-ammonium-chloride
but I'll have to take their word for that.

Sounds impressively chemically. Don't know how effective it is though.
Maybe we'll see after it's been splathered with expensive anti-mould
paint.

and then treated the
offending patches to a double dose, it may be that ordinary emulsion
would be sufficient to cover the treated areas.

The idea of now painting these areas with anti mould paint may be
considered as a belt and braces approach but I wouldn't want to be
spraying unpleasant chemicals around the place too often in future.

Antimould paint is not a solution, but it can help with an otherwise almost adequate approach. 2ndly there is no need ot use nasty chemicals, aspirin, borax etc are fine. Even bleach is enough in the mildest cases.

It had a good dose of bleach to start with but then I read that
bleach only attacks mould on the surface, that it doesn't get down to
the nitty-gritties.

As some of the affected rooms are decorated with different colours,
I'd prefer not to buy multiple pots of different coloured anti mould
paint, which are available.

Just one colour that was overpaintable with ordinary emulsion would be
preferable.

Not mixing the mould killer into paint is often a better approach.

Maybe N-alky( C12-16)-N, NDimethyl-N-benzyl-ammonium-chloride AND
anti-Mould paint is overkill. The again, underkill might prove
disappointing.

NT
--

Mike

On Sun, 24 Nov 2019 07:44:00 -0800 (PST), wrote:

snip
holes can be cut from indoors only -

Great idea. I like it. It's going to take someone a bit more supple
than me to do that though, as the drilling machine will have to be
squeezed into the narrow space above some tightly fitted cupboards.

debris can fall out of course so some cordoning may be needed. A dehumidifier is generally cheaper though.

I'm considering a dehumidifier, though it's surely less of a direct
approach than blowing the steam straight out of a hole in the wall.

It puzzles me how many people produce tons of steam when cooking. Learning not to is trivial.

Don't get me wrong, I enjoy doing my share of the cooking but my wife
is a fanatical steamer of food. She believes the method will keep us
healthier for longer. She uses a 4 tier electric steamer.

We've tried steaming in the microwave and have bought various plastic
devices for doing so. But there's not the height for 4 tiers in
there, the plastic lids tend not to fit too well and though we'd love
to find a stacking microwave steamer made from glass rather than
plastic, the search is proving to be a long, and so far, fruitless
one.

NT
--

Mike

On Monday, 25 November 2019 13:47:55 UTC, Mike Halmarack wrote:
On Sat, 23 Nov 2019 01:32:48 -0800 (PST), tabbypurr wrote:

if you have a damp problem you need to get on & tackle it or things often go very much downhill

More a case of over the cliff here.

Having bought anti mould spray from Lidl

usually those are bleach

This one is said to contain N-alky( C12-16)-N,
NDimethyl-N-benzyl-ammonium-chloride
but I'll have to take their word for that.

Sounds impressively chemically. Don't know how effective it is though.
Maybe we'll see after it's been splathered with expensive anti-mould
paint.

and then treated the
offending patches to a double dose, it may be that ordinary emulsion
would be sufficient to cover the treated areas.

The idea of now painting these areas with anti mould paint may be
considered as a belt and braces approach but I wouldn't want to be
spraying unpleasant chemicals around the place too often in future.

Antimould paint is not a solution, but it can help with an otherwise almost adequate approach. 2ndly there is no need ot use nasty chemicals, aspirin, borax etc are fine. Even bleach is enough in the mildest cases.

It had a good dose of bleach to start with but then I read that
bleach only attacks mould on the surface, that it doesn't get down to
the nitty-gritties.

bleach evaporates, it's a 1 off attack only. I wouldn't be confident of anything soaking in & killing it all. Chemicals are useful short term but not the whole solution. Dryness does work.

As some of the affected rooms are decorated with different colours,
I'd prefer not to buy multiple pots of different coloured anti mould
paint, which are available.

Just one colour that was overpaintable with ordinary emulsion would be
preferable.

Not mixing the mould killer into paint is often a better approach.

Maybe N-alky( C12-16)-N, NDimethyl-N-benzyl-ammonium-chloride AND
anti-Mould paint is overkill. The again, underkill might prove
disappointing.

The main thing is to tackle the RH, without that a cure is unlikely. Bleach can then remove much of the surface mould usually, and some chemical can be left behind to attack the rest. Yes you can use mouldproof paint if you want, and can make it from standard emulsion for pence. I've used it, but that last approach is not one to rely on.


NT

On Monday, 25 November 2019 14:14:03 UTC, Mike Halmarack wrote:
On Sun, 24 Nov 2019 07:44:00 -0800 (PST), tabbypurr wrote:

snip
holes can be cut from indoors only -

Great idea. I like it. It's going to take someone a bit more supple
than me to do that though, as the drilling machine will have to be
squeezed into the narrow space above some tightly fitted cupboards.

debris can fall out of course so some cordoning may be needed. A dehumidifier is generally cheaper though.

I'm considering a dehumidifier, though it's surely less of a direct
approach than blowing the steam straight out of a hole in the wall.

TCO works out less for a dehumidifier, and it's much more effective. Also hassle free, compared to core drilling.


It puzzles me how many people produce tons of steam when cooking. Learning not to is trivial.

Don't get me wrong, I enjoy doing my share of the cooking but my wife
is a fanatical steamer of food. She believes the method will keep us
healthier for longer. She uses a 4 tier electric steamer.

We've tried steaming in the microwave and have bought various plastic
devices for doing so. But there's not the height for 4 tiers in
there, the plastic lids tend not to fit too well and though we'd love
to find a stacking microwave steamer made from glass rather than
plastic, the search is proving to be a long, and so far, fruitless
one.

Maybe time to get the blowtorch out
A dimmer could reduce the escaping steam.


NT

On Tue, 26 Nov 2019 09:09:32 -0800 (PST), wrote:

snip
The main thing is to tackle the RH, without that a cure is unlikely. Bleach can then remove much of the surface mould usually, and some chemical can be left behind to attack the rest. Yes you can use mouldproof paint if you want, and can make it from standard emulsion for pence. I've used it, but that last approach is not one to rely on.

I'm going to adopt most of the useful suggestions given.
I'd certainly appreciate your recipe for mouldproof paint.
NT
--

Mike

On Wednesday, 27 November 2019 11:15:45 UTC, Mike Halmarack wrote:
On Tue, 26 Nov 2019 09:09:32 -0800 (PST), tabbypurr wrote:

snip
The main thing is to tackle the RH, without that a cure is unlikely. Bleach can then remove much of the surface mould usually, and some chemical can be left behind to attack the rest. Yes you can use mouldproof paint if you want, and can make it from standard emulsion for pence. I've used it, but that last approach is not one to rely on.

I'm going to adopt most of the useful suggestions given.
I'd certainly appreciate your recipe for mouldproof paint.

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...esistant_Paint


NT

On Tue, 26 Nov 2019 09:12:47 -0800 (PST), wrote:

snip
debris can fall out of course so some cordoning may be needed. A dehumidifier is generally cheaper though.

I'm considering a dehumidifier, though it's surely less of a direct
approach than blowing the steam straight out of a hole in the wall.

TCO works out less for a dehumidifier, and it's much more effective. Also hassle free, compared to core drilling.

I'm sure you're right. Most convincing.
Though I'm trying hard to envisage how quickly and easily a
dehumidifier would suck the condensation off nearby walls rather than
the steam being immediately diverted to the extractor above the stove
and blown out through a hole in the wall.

It puzzles me how many people produce tons of steam when cooking. Learning not to is trivial.

Don't get me wrong, I enjoy doing my share of the cooking but my wife
is a fanatical steamer of food. She believes the method will keep us
healthier for longer. She uses a 4 tier electric steamer.

We've tried steaming in the microwave and have bought various plastic
devices for doing so. But there's not the height for 4 tiers in
there, the plastic lids tend not to fit too well and though we'd love
to find a stacking microwave steamer made from glass rather than
plastic, the search is proving to be a long, and so far, fruitless
one.

Maybe time to get the blowtorch out
A dimmer could reduce the escaping steam.

I've gone for the partial solution of a Instant Pot electric pressure
cooker. Very little steam in use and even less if I'm prepared to wait
until the thing depressurises under it's own ... steam.

Companion dehumidifier soon.


NT
--

Mike

On Wed, 27 Nov 2019 20:20:54 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Wednesday, 27 November 2019 11:15:45 UTC, Mike Halmarack wrote:
On Tue, 26 Nov 2019 09:09:32 -0800 (PST), tabbypurr wrote:

snip
The main thing is to tackle the RH, without that a cure is unlikely. Bleach can then remove much of the surface mould usually, and some chemical can be left behind to attack the rest. Yes you can use mouldproof paint if you want, and can make it from standard emulsion for pence. I've used it, but that last approach is not one to rely on.

I'm going to adopt most of the useful suggestions given.
I'd certainly appreciate your recipe for mouldproof paint.

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...esistant_Paint

Useful link, thanks. I'll be doing some home brewing next time the
need arises.


NT
--

Mike

On Friday, 29 November 2019 14:17:14 UTC, Mike Halmarack wrote:
On Tue, 26 Nov 2019 09:12:47 -0800 (PST), tabbypurr wrote:

debris can fall out of course so some cordoning may be needed. A dehumidifier is generally cheaper though.

I'm considering a dehumidifier, though it's surely less of a direct
approach than blowing the steam straight out of a hole in the wall.

TCO works out less for a dehumidifier, and it's much more effective. Also hassle free, compared to core drilling.

I'm sure you're right. Most convincing.
Though I'm trying hard to envisage how quickly and easily a
dehumidifier would suck the condensation off nearby walls rather than
the steam being immediately diverted to the extractor above the stove
and blown out through a hole in the wall.

The dh is sometimes quicker, sometimes not. Hopefully your new pot will minimise steam production making excess ventilation unnecessary.


NT

On Fri, 29 Nov 2019 07:01:01 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Friday, 29 November 2019 14:17:14 UTC, Mike Halmarack wrote:
On Tue, 26 Nov 2019 09:12:47 -0800 (PST), tabbypurr wrote:

debris can fall out of course so some cordoning may be needed. A dehumidifier is generally cheaper though.

I'm considering a dehumidifier, though it's surely less of a direct
approach than blowing the steam straight out of a hole in the wall.

TCO works out less for a dehumidifier, and it's much more effective. Also hassle free, compared to core drilling.

I'm sure you're right. Most convincing.
Though I'm trying hard to envisage how quickly and easily a
dehumidifier would suck the condensation off nearby walls rather than
the steam being immediately diverted to the extractor above the stove
and blown out through a hole in the wall.

The dh is sometimes quicker, sometimes not. Hopefully your new pot will minimise steam production making excess ventilation unnecessary.

Being a belt and braces type I just bought the Meaco 12L portable
dehumidifier. Also due to the horrifying sight of black mould creeping
down from the ceiling. Ugly stuff.
NT
--

Mike

On Saturday, 30 November 2019 08:53:40 UTC, Mike Halmarack wrote:
On Fri, 29 Nov 2019 07:01:01 -0800 (PST), tabbypurr wrote:
On Friday, 29 November 2019 14:17:14 UTC, Mike Halmarack wrote:
On Tue, 26 Nov 2019 09:12:47 -0800 (PST), tabbypurr wrote:

I'm considering a dehumidifier, though it's surely less of a direct
approach than blowing the steam straight out of a hole in the wall.

TCO works out less for a dehumidifier, and it's much more effective. Also hassle free, compared to core drilling.

I'm sure you're right. Most convincing.
Though I'm trying hard to envisage how quickly and easily a
dehumidifier would suck the condensation off nearby walls rather than
the steam being immediately diverted to the extractor above the stove
and blown out through a hole in the wall.

The dh is sometimes quicker, sometimes not. Hopefully your new pot will minimise steam production making excess ventilation unnecessary.

Being a belt and braces type I just bought the Meaco 12L portable
dehumidifier. Also due to the horrifying sight of black mould creeping
down from the ceiling. Ugly stuff.

Very destructive to health that is.


NT

On Sat, 30 Nov 2019 01:58:49 -0800, tabbypurr wrote:

Very destructive to health that is.

Do you have any further info to point to on that?




--
Leave first - THEN negotiate!

On Saturday, 30 November 2019 14:55:37 UTC, Cursitor Doom wrote:
On Sat, 30 Nov 2019 01:58:49 -0800, tabbypurr wrote:

Very destructive to health that is.

Do you have any further info to point to on that?

Google should give you plenty on 'toxic mould'


NT