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Default overpaintable anti-mould paint.

So many of the anti-mould paints are not overpaintable. Looking online
today I see that there are a lot of options that are said to be not
overpaintable. There are some that don't specify this feature one way
or another. I haven't spotted one yet that claims specifically to be
overpaintable.

The best I've seen so far is this offering because at least it has
lots of colour options:

https://www.decoratingwarehouse.co.u...-mould-acrylic

What is the most sensible procedure for dealing with this mould
problem?
--

Mike
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Default overpaintable anti-mould paint.

On 22/11/2019 14:14, Mike Halmarack wrote:
So many of the anti-mould paints are not overpaintable. Looking online
today I see that there are a lot of options that are said to be not
overpaintable. There are some that don't specify this feature one way
or another. I haven't spotted one yet that claims specifically to be
overpaintable.

The best I've seen so far is this offering because at least it has
lots of colour options:

https://www.decoratingwarehouse.co.u...-mould-acrylic

What is the most sensible procedure for dealing with this mould
problem?



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Default overpaintable anti-mould paint.

On 22/11/2019 14:14, Mike Halmarack wrote:
So many of the anti-mould paints are not overpaintable. Looking online
today I see that there are a lot of options that are said to be not
overpaintable. There are some that don't specify this feature one way
or another. I haven't spotted one yet that claims specifically to be
overpaintable.


Zinsser as sold by Screwfix/Toolstation

https://www.zinsseruk.com/howto/how-...nt-over-mould/

https://letsremovemold.com/painting-...ld-to-kill-it/


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Default overpaintable anti-mould paint.

On Fri, 22 Nov 2019 14:51:31 +0000, alan_m
wrote:

On 22/11/2019 14:14, Mike Halmarack wrote:
So many of the anti-mould paints are not overpaintable. Looking online
today I see that there are a lot of options that are said to be not
overpaintable. There are some that don't specify this feature one way
or another. I haven't spotted one yet that claims specifically to be
overpaintable.


Zinsser as sold by Screwfix/Toolstation

https://www.zinsseruk.com/howto/how-...nt-over-mould/

https://letsremovemold.com/painting-...ld-to-kill-it/


Not being a professional and also a bit lapsadaisical I tend to get a
bit scared off by information that would have me buy a large range of
items to do one job. I realise that mixing and matching is a
possibility. But these articles usually advise or imply the need for
caution in straying from the branded list.
--

Mike
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Default overpaintable anti-mould paint.

On Saturday, 23 November 2019 08:58:22 UTC, Mike Halmarack wrote:
On Fri, 22 Nov 2019 14:51:31 +0000, alan_m
wrote:
On 22/11/2019 14:14, Mike Halmarack wrote:


So many of the anti-mould paints are not overpaintable. Looking online
today I see that there are a lot of options that are said to be not
overpaintable. There are some that don't specify this feature one way
or another. I haven't spotted one yet that claims specifically to be
overpaintable.


Zinsser as sold by Screwfix/Toolstation

https://www.zinsseruk.com/howto/how-...nt-over-mould/

https://letsremovemold.com/painting-...ld-to-kill-it/


Not being a professional and also a bit lapsadaisical I tend to get a
bit scared off by information that would have me buy a large range of
items to do one job. I realise that mixing and matching is a
possibility. But these articles usually advise or imply the need for
caution in straying from the branded list.


too much misinformation on the 2nd link. The 1st is honest enough to admit that you need to sort the problem out first, painting is cosmetic.


NT


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Default overpaintable anti-mould paint.

What is causing the mould. That is the question.
The problem is that the spores will just seed somewhere else usually and so
the main thing is to find the damp source and stop it first.
Brian

--
----- --
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"Mike Halmarack" wrote in message
...
So many of the anti-mould paints are not overpaintable. Looking online
today I see that there are a lot of options that are said to be not
overpaintable. There are some that don't specify this feature one way
or another. I haven't spotted one yet that claims specifically to be
overpaintable.

The best I've seen so far is this offering because at least it has
lots of colour options:

https://www.decoratingwarehouse.co.u...-mould-acrylic

What is the most sensible procedure for dealing with this mould
problem?
--

Mike



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Default overpaintable anti-mould paint.

On Fri, 22 Nov 2019 21:16:46 -0000, "Brian Gaff \(Sofa\)"
wrote:

What is causing the mould. That is the question.
The problem is that the spores will just seed somewhere else usually and so
the main thing is to find the damp source and stop it first.
Brian


The main contributor seems to be condensation.
Recently moved into an electric only flat and are waiting to see our
first bill that includes heating, before investing in electrical
solutions like dehumidifiers or powered extractors.

Having bought anti mould spray from Lidl and then treated the
offending patches to a double dose, it may be that ordinary emulsion
would be sufficient to cover the treated areas.

The idea of now painting these areas with anti mould paint may be
considered as a belt and braces approach but I wouldn't want to be
spraying unpleasant chemicals around the place too often in future.

As some of the affected rooms are decorated with different colours,
I'd prefer not to buy multiple pots of different coloured anti mould
paint, which are available.

Just one colour that was overpaintable with ordinary emulsion would be
preferable.
--

Mike
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Default overpaintable anti-mould paint.

In message , Mike Halmarack
writes
On Fri, 22 Nov 2019 21:16:46 -0000, "Brian Gaff \(Sofa\)"
wrote:

What is causing the mould. That is the question.
The problem is that the spores will just seed somewhere else usually and so
the main thing is to find the damp source and stop it first.
Brian


The main contributor seems to be condensation.
Recently moved into an electric only flat and are waiting to see our
first bill that includes heating, before investing in electrical
solutions like dehumidifiers or powered extractors.


Might be useful to discuss the problem with neighbours in similar flats.

Way back we had a thread on extract heat recovery. This was related to
issues of condensation in a North facing, 60's build, uninsulated cavity
wall block.

Where clothes drying, excessive showering, cooking etc. put lots of
moisture into the air which promptly condensed on the cold upper parts
of the North walls.

Luckily the flats were commonhold and nobody objected to us putting in a
central heat recovery system plus extractors for bathroom and cooker
hood.

Having bought anti mould spray from Lidl and then treated the
offending patches to a double dose, it may be that ordinary emulsion
would be sufficient to cover the treated areas.

The idea of now painting these areas with anti mould paint may be
considered as a belt and braces approach but I wouldn't want to be
spraying unpleasant chemicals around the place too often in future.

As some of the affected rooms are decorated with different colours,
I'd prefer not to buy multiple pots of different coloured anti mould
paint, which are available.

Just one colour that was overpaintable with ordinary emulsion would be
preferable.


--
Tim Lamb
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Default overpaintable anti-mould paint.

On Sat, 23 Nov 2019 09:23:27 +0000, Tim Lamb
wrote:

In message , Mike Halmarack
writes
On Fri, 22 Nov 2019 21:16:46 -0000, "Brian Gaff \(Sofa\)"
wrote:

What is causing the mould. That is the question.
The problem is that the spores will just seed somewhere else usually and so
the main thing is to find the damp source and stop it first.
Brian


The main contributor seems to be condensation.
Recently moved into an electric only flat and are waiting to see our
first bill that includes heating, before investing in electrical
solutions like dehumidifiers or powered extractors.


Might be useful to discuss the problem with neighbours in similar flats.


Discussed it with a few, who have had similar problems.

Way back we had a thread on extract heat recovery. This was related to
issues of condensation in a North facing, 60's build, uninsulated cavity
wall block.

The kitchen, which is the worst affected room, is north facing, 70's
build, with uninsulated cavity.
Where clothes drying, excessive showering, cooking etc. put lots of
moisture into the air which promptly condensed on the cold upper parts
of the North walls.


That certainly rings a bell.

Luckily the flats were commonhold and nobody objected to us putting in a
central heat recovery system plus extractors for bathroom and cooker
hood.


These flats have a jointly held freehold which sounds quite similar.
Getting consensual agreement is said to be tricky though.
Maybe the AGM is the time and place.

The extraction used on the existing Electrolux cooker hood stops at
the activated carbon filters contained within.

I don't know the model name and number of this cooker hood. Nothing
immediately visible. It may be that its current setup can easily be
modified to connect a vent pipe leading to an as yet non existent hole
in the wall. Maybe A ZipUp tower and a diamond hole cutter will
suffice for that. I've done such things before in my earlier DIY days.
Someone else will have to do it this time.


Having bought anti mould spray from Lidl and then treated the
offending patches to a double dose, it may be that ordinary emulsion
would be sufficient to cover the treated areas.

The idea of now painting these areas with anti mould paint may be
considered as a belt and braces approach but I wouldn't want to be
spraying unpleasant chemicals around the place too often in future.

As some of the affected rooms are decorated with different colours,
I'd prefer not to buy multiple pots of different coloured anti mould
paint, which are available.

Just one colour that was overpaintable with ordinary emulsion would be
preferable.

--

Mike
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On 23/11/2019 10:40, Mike Halmarack wrote:
On Sat, 23 Nov 2019 09:23:27 +0000, Tim Lamb
wrote:

In message , Mike Halmarack
writes
On Fri, 22 Nov 2019 21:16:46 -0000, "Brian Gaff \(Sofa\)"
wrote:

What is causing the mould. That is the question.
The problem is that the spores will just seed somewhere else usually and so
the main thing is to find the damp source and stop it first.
Brian

The main contributor seems to be condensation.
Recently moved into an electric only flat and are waiting to see our
first bill that includes heating, before investing in electrical
solutions like dehumidifiers or powered extractors.


Might be useful to discuss the problem with neighbours in similar flats.


Discussed it with a few, who have had similar problems.


The best time to do this is before you buy the place :-)

At the end of the day it boils down to lack of insulation and/or
not enough heat and/or ventilation.

Way back we had a thread on extract heat recovery. This was related to
issues of condensation in a North facing, 60's build, uninsulated cavity
wall block.

The kitchen, which is the worst affected room, is north facing, 70's
build, with uninsulated cavity.
Where clothes drying, excessive showering, cooking etc. put lots of
moisture into the air which promptly condensed on the cold upper parts
of the North walls.


That certainly rings a bell.

Luckily the flats were commonhold and nobody objected to us putting in a
central heat recovery system plus extractors for bathroom and cooker
hood.


These flats have a jointly held freehold which sounds quite similar.
Getting consensual agreement is said to be tricky though.
Maybe the AGM is the time and place.

The extraction used on the existing Electrolux cooker hood stops at
the activated carbon filters contained within.

I don't know the model name and number of this cooker hood. Nothing
immediately visible. It may be that its current setup can easily be
modified to connect a vent pipe leading to an as yet non existent hole
in the wall. Maybe A ZipUp tower and a diamond hole cutter will
suffice for that. I've done such things before in my earlier DIY days.
Someone else will have to do it this time.

snip


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On Saturday, 23 November 2019 10:40:19 UTC, Mike Halmarack wrote:
On Sat, 23 Nov 2019 09:23:27 +0000, Tim Lamb
wrote:
In message , Mike Halmarack
writes
On Fri, 22 Nov 2019 21:16:46 -0000, "Brian Gaff \(Sofa\)"
wrote:


Might be useful to discuss the problem with neighbours in similar flats.


Discussed it with a few, who have had similar problems.

Way back we had a thread on extract heat recovery. This was related to
issues of condensation in a North facing, 60's build, uninsulated cavity
wall block.

The kitchen, which is the worst affected room, is north facing, 70's
build, with uninsulated cavity.


sounds like a good opportunity, CWI could help there. You'll still need to get rid of excess damp though.

Where clothes drying, excessive showering, cooking etc. put lots of
moisture into the air which promptly condensed on the cold upper parts
of the North walls.


That certainly rings a bell.

Luckily the flats were commonhold and nobody objected to us putting in a
central heat recovery system plus extractors for bathroom and cooker
hood.


These flats have a jointly held freehold which sounds quite similar.
Getting consensual agreement is said to be tricky though.
Maybe the AGM is the time and place.

The extraction used on the existing Electrolux cooker hood stops at
the activated carbon filters contained within.

I don't know the model name and number of this cooker hood. Nothing
immediately visible. It may be that its current setup can easily be
modified to connect a vent pipe leading to an as yet non existent hole
in the wall. Maybe A ZipUp tower and a diamond hole cutter will
suffice for that. I've done such things before in my earlier DIY days.
Someone else will have to do it this time.


holes can be cut from indoors only - debris can fall out of course so some cordoning may be needed. A dehumidifier is generally cheaper though.

It puzzles me how many people produce tons of steam when cooking. Learning not to is trivial.


NT
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On Saturday, 23 November 2019 08:50:45 UTC, Mike Halmarack wrote:
On Fri, 22 Nov 2019 21:16:46 -0000, "Brian Gaff \(Sofa\)"
wrote:

What is causing the mould. That is the question.
The problem is that the spores will just seed somewhere else usually and so
the main thing is to find the damp source and stop it first.
Brian


The main contributor seems to be condensation.


symptom rather than cause

Recently moved into an electric only flat and are waiting to see our
first bill that includes heating, before investing in electrical
solutions like dehumidifiers or powered extractors.


if you have a damp problem you need to get on & tackle it or things often go very much downhill

Having bought anti mould spray from Lidl


usually those are bleach

and then treated the
offending patches to a double dose, it may be that ordinary emulsion
would be sufficient to cover the treated areas.

The idea of now painting these areas with anti mould paint may be
considered as a belt and braces approach but I wouldn't want to be
spraying unpleasant chemicals around the place too often in future.


Antimould paint is not a solution, but it can help with an otherwise almost adequate approach. 2ndly there is no need ot use nasty chemicals, aspirin, borax etc are fine. Even bleach is enough in the mildest cases.


As some of the affected rooms are decorated with different colours,
I'd prefer not to buy multiple pots of different coloured anti mould
paint, which are available.

Just one colour that was overpaintable with ordinary emulsion would be
preferable.


Not mixing the mould killer into paint is often a better approach.


NT
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On 23/11/2019 09:32, wrote:


Not mixing the mould killer into paint is often a better approach.


Don't you mean mixing mould killer into the paint would be better

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...esistant_Paint




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On Saturday, 23 November 2019 10:19:43 UTC, alan_m wrote:
On 23/11/2019 09:32, tabbypurr wrote:


Not mixing the mould killer into paint is often a better approach.


Don't you mean mixing mould killer into the paint would be better

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...esistant_Paint


if I meant that I'd have said it.


NT
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On Sat, 23 Nov 2019 01:32:48 -0800 (PST), wrote:

snip
if you have a damp problem you need to get on & tackle it or things often go very much downhill


More a case of over the cliff here.

Having bought anti mould spray from Lidl


usually those are bleach


This one is said to contain N-alky( C12-16)-N,
NDimethyl-N-benzyl-ammonium-chloride
but I'll have to take their word for that.

Sounds impressively chemically. Don't know how effective it is though.
Maybe we'll see after it's been splathered with expensive anti-mould
paint.

and then treated the
offending patches to a double dose, it may be that ordinary emulsion
would be sufficient to cover the treated areas.

The idea of now painting these areas with anti mould paint may be
considered as a belt and braces approach but I wouldn't want to be
spraying unpleasant chemicals around the place too often in future.


Antimould paint is not a solution, but it can help with an otherwise almost adequate approach. 2ndly there is no need ot use nasty chemicals, aspirin, borax etc are fine. Even bleach is enough in the mildest cases.


It had a good dose of bleach to start with but then I read that
bleach only attacks mould on the surface, that it doesn't get down to
the nitty-gritties.

As some of the affected rooms are decorated with different colours,
I'd prefer not to buy multiple pots of different coloured anti mould
paint, which are available.

Just one colour that was overpaintable with ordinary emulsion would be
preferable.


Not mixing the mould killer into paint is often a better approach.


Maybe N-alky( C12-16)-N, NDimethyl-N-benzyl-ammonium-chloride AND
anti-Mould paint is overkill. The again, underkill might prove
disappointing.

NT

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On Monday, 25 November 2019 13:47:55 UTC, Mike Halmarack wrote:
On Sat, 23 Nov 2019 01:32:48 -0800 (PST), tabbypurr wrote:


if you have a damp problem you need to get on & tackle it or things often go very much downhill


More a case of over the cliff here.

Having bought anti mould spray from Lidl


usually those are bleach


This one is said to contain N-alky( C12-16)-N,
NDimethyl-N-benzyl-ammonium-chloride
but I'll have to take their word for that.

Sounds impressively chemically. Don't know how effective it is though.
Maybe we'll see after it's been splathered with expensive anti-mould
paint.

and then treated the
offending patches to a double dose, it may be that ordinary emulsion
would be sufficient to cover the treated areas.

The idea of now painting these areas with anti mould paint may be
considered as a belt and braces approach but I wouldn't want to be
spraying unpleasant chemicals around the place too often in future.


Antimould paint is not a solution, but it can help with an otherwise almost adequate approach. 2ndly there is no need ot use nasty chemicals, aspirin, borax etc are fine. Even bleach is enough in the mildest cases.


It had a good dose of bleach to start with but then I read that
bleach only attacks mould on the surface, that it doesn't get down to
the nitty-gritties.


bleach evaporates, it's a 1 off attack only. I wouldn't be confident of anything soaking in & killing it all. Chemicals are useful short term but not the whole solution. Dryness does work.

As some of the affected rooms are decorated with different colours,
I'd prefer not to buy multiple pots of different coloured anti mould
paint, which are available.

Just one colour that was overpaintable with ordinary emulsion would be
preferable.


Not mixing the mould killer into paint is often a better approach.


Maybe N-alky( C12-16)-N, NDimethyl-N-benzyl-ammonium-chloride AND
anti-Mould paint is overkill. The again, underkill might prove
disappointing.


The main thing is to tackle the RH, without that a cure is unlikely. Bleach can then remove much of the surface mould usually, and some chemical can be left behind to attack the rest. Yes you can use mouldproof paint if you want, and can make it from standard emulsion for pence. I've used it, but that last approach is not one to rely on.


NT
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On 23/11/2019 08:50, Mike Halmarack wrote:

Having bought anti mould spray from Lidl and then treated the
offending patches to a double dose, it may be that ordinary emulsion
would be sufficient to cover the treated areas.


If its condensation and not damp penetration then one of the ordinary
paints designed for kitchen/bathroom wetter areas use would suffice. If
you still have any staining after dealing with the mould then I would
recommend a paint designed for sealing the area first or you may/will
find that the stain bleeding through your new paint.
I've used Zinsser 1-2-3 sealers with success and then used a paint of my
choice over the top.

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On Sat, 23 Nov 2019 10:14:22 +0000, alan_m
wrote:

On 23/11/2019 08:50, Mike Halmarack wrote:

Having bought anti mould spray from Lidl and then treated the
offending patches to a double dose, it may be that ordinary emulsion
would be sufficient to cover the treated areas.


If its condensation and not damp penetration then one of the ordinary
paints designed for kitchen/bathroom wetter areas use would suffice. If
you still have any staining after dealing with the mould then I would
recommend a paint designed for sealing the area first or you may/will
find that the stain bleeding through your new paint.
I've used Zinsser 1-2-3 sealers with success and then used a paint of my
choice over the top.


Sounds like good advice, I'll look into that. Thanks.
--

Mike
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On Friday, 22 November 2019 14:14:43 UTC, Mike Halmarack wrote:

What is the most sensible procedure for dealing with this mould
problem?


The absence of any details whatsoever is more than a bit limiting. Given that I can only mention the most commonly effective approaches, dehumidifier & reducing excess steam output when cooking. More ventilation sometimes suffices.


NT
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