Well... I had a setback in trying to fire up the Syncrowave 300 I bought
from Ig.

My shop is in a 1968 hay barn (no hay now), and some of the wiring is
mine; some is original. My welding station works out of one of the
original distribution boxes around the structure.

I went to hook it up to test. I knew it could draw about 130 amps, so I
checked stuff. The main in the distro was 200A, but when I looked at the
wiring feeding that main, it was #8 (damn!). Well... it had worked for
years at 40 and 50 amps for my little Mig and buzz-box, so I thought I'd
hook up anyway, and try a low amperage setting.

Guys, except for my MIG, I've never done any DC welding, never owned a
TIG, and never had any high-frequency in any machines. This thing is
like a paradigm shift for me.

It welds so smoothly at 125A in stick mode that I can almost weld
blindfolded, just by listening to the arc. In TIG mode, it's so near
impossible not to strike a proper arc on the first try that you'd have to
work at it to fail.

This thing was built in the late '80s or early '90s, but it's more welder
I think I'll ever need. All copper, too!

Ig doesn't know it, but he's looking for some other shop tools for me.
G

LLoyd

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote:

Well... I had a setback in trying to fire up the Syncrowave 300 I bought
from Ig.

My shop is in a 1968 hay barn (no hay now), and some of the wiring is
mine; some is original. My welding station works out of one of the
original distribution boxes around the structure.

I went to hook it up to test. I knew it could draw about 130 amps, so I
checked stuff. The main in the distro was 200A, but when I looked at the
wiring feeding that main, it was #8 (damn!). Well... it had worked for
years at 40 and 50 amps for my little Mig and buzz-box, so I thought I'd
hook up anyway, and try a low amperage setting.

Guys, except for my MIG, I've never done any DC welding, never owned a
TIG, and never had any high-frequency in any machines. This thing is
like a paradigm shift for me.

It welds so smoothly at 125A in stick mode that I can almost weld
blindfolded, just by listening to the arc. In TIG mode, it's so near
impossible not to strike a proper arc on the first try that you'd have to
work at it to fail.

This thing was built in the late '80s or early '90s, but it's more welder
I think I'll ever need. All copper, too!

Ig doesn't know it, but he's looking for some other shop tools for me.
G

LLoyd

The Syncrowaves are great machines. The machine is so good it enables an
occasional hobby welder to make good welds. I'll never part with my
Syncrowave 250.

somecomments.

thanks for being a great customer

150a is all you need for steel, al may require more.

this is truly a gentleman's welder.

i love buying and selling welders and welding rod.

On 2012-08-17, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
Well... I had a setback in trying to fire up the Syncrowave 300 I bought
from Ig.

My shop is in a 1968 hay barn (no hay now), and some of the wiring is
mine; some is original. My welding station works out of one of the
original distribution boxes around the structure.

I went to hook it up to test. I knew it could draw about 130 amps, so I
checked stuff. The main in the distro was 200A, but when I looked at the
wiring feeding that main, it was #8 (damn!). Well... it had worked for
years at 40 and 50 amps for my little Mig and buzz-box, so I thought I'd
hook up anyway, and try a low amperage setting.

Guys, except for my MIG, I've never done any DC welding, never owned a
TIG, and never had any high-frequency in any machines. This thing is
like a paradigm shift for me.

It welds so smoothly at 125A in stick mode that I can almost weld
blindfolded, just by listening to the arc. In TIG mode, it's so near
impossible not to strike a proper arc on the first try that you'd have to
work at it to fail.

This thing was built in the late '80s or early '90s, but it's more welder
I think I'll ever need. All copper, too!

Ig doesn't know it, but he's looking for some other shop tools for me.
G

LLoyd

On Fri, 17 Aug 2012 11:40:51 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Well... I had a setback in trying to fire up the Syncrowave 300 I bought
from Ig.

My shop is in a 1968 hay barn (no hay now), and some of the wiring is
mine; some is original. My welding station works out of one of the
original distribution boxes around the structure.

I went to hook it up to test. I knew it could draw about 130 amps, so I
checked stuff. The main in the distro was 200A, but when I looked at the
wiring feeding that main, it was #8 (damn!). Well... it had worked for
years at 40 and 50 amps for my little Mig and buzz-box, so I thought I'd
hook up anyway, and try a low amperage setting.


It's not only the size of the wire, it's the length. What size is the
Main Panel, and how far does the #8 have to go from the Main to the
Barn? Aerial or Underground?

It's real easy to run a larger wire and then swing the Barn service
over at your leisure.

It's not as easy but a lot more useful (especially if it's several
hundred feet to the House) if the Utility will give you a separate
service to the barn. Might even get 120/240V Open Delta or Full Delta
3-phase, and that's VERY useful if you want to get a real big welder,
compressor, lathe or mill...

The Power Utility gets to cheat the hell out of the Ampacity ratings
on their wires on the other side of the meter, and there's not a lot
you can do other than complain of excessive voltage drop measured at
the meter - They'll put in #1 AL for a 200A service drop from the pole
to the house, then you connect 3/0 Copper to it for in the riser.


Guys, except for my MIG, I've never done any DC welding, never owned a
TIG, and never had any high-frequency in any machines. This thing is
like a paradigm shift for me.

It welds so smoothly at 125A in stick mode that I can almost weld
blindfolded, just by listening to the arc. In TIG mode, it's so near
impossible not to strike a proper arc on the first try that you'd have to
work at it to fail.

But remember, the weld bead can be as beautiful as a Renoir Painting -
but if you don't get proper penetration on both sides of the bead (and
let it cool slowly so it doesn't crack, etc.) you aren't welding, just
spackling. And spackle fails real fast...

You have to make practice welds then put those sample coupons in the
bench vise and beat them to heck, and make sure the parent metal fails
first.


This thing was built in the late '80s or early '90s, but it's more welder
I think I'll ever need. All copper, too!

Ig doesn't know it, but he's looking for some other shop tools for me.
G

Does your Syncrowave have a sister? Preferably Engine Driven?

-- Bruce --

"Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable)"
fired this volley in
:

It's not as easy but a lot more useful (especially if it's several
hundred feet to the House) if the Utility will give you a separate
service to the barn. Might even get 120/240V Open Delta or Full Delta
3-phase, and that's VERY useful if you want to get a real big welder,
compressor, lathe or mill...


Bruce, the barn is a commercial/agricultural building on its own service.
I'm completely compentent to size and run the correct wiring from the
meter can to the distribution box.

But remember, the weld bead can be as beautiful as a Renoir Painting -
but if you don't get proper penetration on both sides of the bead (and
let it cool slowly so it doesn't crack, etc.) you aren't welding, just
spackling. And spackle fails real fast...

I've been stick, MIG, and O/A brazing/cutting for decades (actually just
started O/A fusion welding about a year ago), Bruce. I can make and
recognize a good stick weld, even with a Craftsman buzz-box. I just never
realized how _easy_ it was until I got this nice welder.

And I never owned a TIG. That will be where the learning curve is for
me. I've already figured out that the puddle looks a lot different with
TIG than it does with OA welding. I've also figured out that with this
small #200 torch, #12 shade helmet lens is too dark, even when working on
aluminum. Probably it would be right for a bigger electrode, but not for
an .040" tungsten at low amperage.

Lloyd

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote:

I've been stick, MIG, and O/A brazing/cutting for decades (actually just
started O/A fusion welding about a year ago), Bruce. I can make and
recognize a good stick weld, even with a Craftsman buzz-box. I just never
realized how _easy_ it was until I got this nice welder.

A good machine certainly makes a difference. The arc control setting on
the Syncrowave certainly helps when stick welding, particularly if you
rarely do stick.


And I never owned a TIG. That will be where the learning curve is for
me. I've already figured out that the puddle looks a lot different with
TIG than it does with OA welding. I've also figured out that with this
small #200 torch, #12 shade helmet lens is too dark, even when working on
aluminum. Probably it would be right for a bigger electrode, but not for
an .040" tungsten at low amperage.

Invest in a good adjustable auto helmet like a Jackson EQC. Also invest
in a couple of the Harbor Freight $50 auto helmets for assistants. They
make life a lot easier, particularly since you can move from one weld
position to the next or even rearrange clamps without bothering to lift
the helmet.

On 2012-08-18, Pete C. wrote:

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote:

I've been stick, MIG, and O/A brazing/cutting for decades (actually just
started O/A fusion welding about a year ago), Bruce. I can make and
recognize a good stick weld, even with a Craftsman buzz-box. I just never
realized how _easy_ it was until I got this nice welder.

A good machine certainly makes a difference. The arc control setting on
the Syncrowave certainly helps when stick welding, particularly if you
rarely do stick.


And I never owned a TIG. That will be where the learning curve is for
me. I've already figured out that the puddle looks a lot different with
TIG than it does with OA welding. I've also figured out that with this
small #200 torch, #12 shade helmet lens is too dark, even when working on
aluminum. Probably it would be right for a bigger electrode, but not for
an .040" tungsten at low amperage.

Invest in a good adjustable auto helmet like a Jackson EQC. Also invest
in a couple of the Harbor Freight $50 auto helmets for assistants. They
make life a lot easier, particularly since you can move from one weld
position to the next or even rearrange clamps without bothering to lift
the helmet.

Assistants do not need autodarkening helmets, you can get by with old
darkened glass helmets.

i

Ignoramus15734 wrote:

On 2012-08-18, Pete C. wrote:

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote:

I've been stick, MIG, and O/A brazing/cutting for decades (actually just
started O/A fusion welding about a year ago), Bruce. I can make and
recognize a good stick weld, even with a Craftsman buzz-box. I just never
realized how _easy_ it was until I got this nice welder.

A good machine certainly makes a difference. The arc control setting on
the Syncrowave certainly helps when stick welding, particularly if you
rarely do stick.


And I never owned a TIG. That will be where the learning curve is for
me. I've already figured out that the puddle looks a lot different with
TIG than it does with OA welding. I've also figured out that with this
small #200 torch, #12 shade helmet lens is too dark, even when working on
aluminum. Probably it would be right for a bigger electrode, but not for
an .040" tungsten at low amperage.

Invest in a good adjustable auto helmet like a Jackson EQC. Also invest
in a couple of the Harbor Freight $50 auto helmets for assistants. They
make life a lot easier, particularly since you can move from one weld
position to the next or even rearrange clamps without bothering to lift
the helmet.

Assistants do not need autodarkening helmets, you can get by with old
darkened glass helmets.

For $50 or less with coupon for the HF autos, who cares?

On Sat, 18 Aug 2012 09:30:45 -0500, Ignoramus15734
wrote:

On 2012-08-18, Pete C. wrote:

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote:

I've been stick, MIG, and O/A brazing/cutting for decades (actually just
started O/A fusion welding about a year ago), Bruce. I can make and
recognize a good stick weld, even with a Craftsman buzz-box. I just never
realized how _easy_ it was until I got this nice welder.

A good machine certainly makes a difference. The arc control setting on
the Syncrowave certainly helps when stick welding, particularly if you
rarely do stick.


And I never owned a TIG. That will be where the learning curve is for
me. I've already figured out that the puddle looks a lot different with
TIG than it does with OA welding. I've also figured out that with this
small #200 torch, #12 shade helmet lens is too dark, even when working on
aluminum. Probably it would be right for a bigger electrode, but not for
an .040" tungsten at low amperage.

Invest in a good adjustable auto helmet like a Jackson EQC. Also invest
in a couple of the Harbor Freight $50 auto helmets for assistants. They
make life a lot easier, particularly since you can move from one weld
position to the next or even rearrange clamps without bothering to lift
the helmet.

Assistants do not need autodarkening helmets, you can get by with old
darkened glass helmets.

I've hardly used my new (ADH) autodarkening helmet, but I would think
that they would be indispensible to assistants, too. They could see
WTF they were doing helping you position something to weld, etc. Dark
glass is a bitch to work with and my welding improved immediately upon
purchase of the ADH. Some day it'll even be good.

--
The business of America is not business. Neither is it war. The business
of America is justice and securing the blessings of liberty.
-- George F. Will

"Pete C." fired this volley in news:502fa96a$0$14604
:

For $50 or less with coupon for the HF autos, who cares?

ACtually... there is a concern. Some of the cheaper ones turn off
unexpectedly. If you don't use one often enough to recognize that it's
off, and "re-tap" the glass to turn them back on, you could get a shot of
light you don't expect or want.

If the folks kibbitzing aren't experienced with auto-darkening helmets (I
have one... I meant "set to #12 shade" earlier), then I'd suggest that a
fixed lens is better for safety.

LLoyd

On 8/18/2012 7:22 AM, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
....

... I've also figured out that with this
small #200 torch, #12 shade helmet lens is too dark, even when working on
aluminum. Probably it would be right for a bigger electrode,...

Yeah, I'd not had a auto-shade helmet, either, and Dad's didn't fit well
so I bought an moderate one (I can't bring myself to trust HF for this
kind of thing). It's too dark for everything I've done to date since
even w/ a standard arc; can just barely see anything. I suppose again
if I had it cranked full bore it might be ok, but all in all it's not
been the help I was expecting...

--

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote:

"Pete C." fired this volley in news:502fa96a$0$14604
:

For $50 or less with coupon for the HF autos, who cares?

ACtually... there is a concern. Some of the cheaper ones turn off
unexpectedly. If you don't use one often enough to recognize that it's
off, and "re-tap" the glass to turn them back on, you could get a shot of
light you don't expect or want.

If the folks kibbitzing aren't experienced with auto-darkening helmets (I
have one... I meant "set to #12 shade" earlier), then I'd suggest that a
fixed lens is better for safety.

LLoyd

It has little to do with safety. All the auto darks provide full IR and
UV protection on or off. You can only get dazzled by visible light.

dpb wrote:

On 8/18/2012 7:22 AM, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
...

... I've also figured out that with this
small #200 torch, #12 shade helmet lens is too dark, even when working on
aluminum. Probably it would be right for a bigger electrode,...

Yeah, I'd not had a auto-shade helmet, either, and Dad's didn't fit well
so I bought an moderate one (I can't bring myself to trust HF for this
kind of thing). It's too dark for everything I've done to date since
even w/ a standard arc; can just barely see anything. I suppose again
if I had it cranked full bore it might be ok, but all in all it's not
been the help I was expecting...

--

I have a Jackson EQC and an HF, both work just fine. The EQC has about
3x the window area and 6x the price.

On 2012-08-18, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
"Pete C." fired this volley in news:502fa96a$0$14604
:

For $50 or less with coupon for the HF autos, who cares?

ACtually... there is a concern. Some of the cheaper ones turn off
unexpectedly. If you don't use one often enough to recognize that it's
off, and "re-tap" the glass to turn them back on, you could get a shot of
light you don't expect or want.

If the folks kibbitzing aren't experienced with auto-darkening helmets (I
have one... I meant "set to #12 shade" earlier), then I'd suggest that a
fixed lens is better for safety.

I had a Harbor Freight one, it was OK while it worked, eventually it
brkoe and I have a Miller now.

On Sat, 18 Aug 2012 15:40:35 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


dpb wrote:

On 8/18/2012 7:22 AM, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
...

... I've also figured out that with this
small #200 torch, #12 shade helmet lens is too dark, even when working on
aluminum. Probably it would be right for a bigger electrode,...

Yeah, I'd not had a auto-shade helmet, either, and Dad's didn't fit well
so I bought an moderate one (I can't bring myself to trust HF for this
kind of thing). It's too dark for everything I've done to date since
even w/ a standard arc; can just barely see anything. I suppose again
if I had it cranked full bore it might be ok, but all in all it's not
been the help I was expecting...

--

I have a Jackson EQC and an HF, both work just fine. The EQC has about
3x the window area and 6x the price.

How does a larger or wide-angle lens help when the area of focus is so
small?

--
The business of America is not business. Neither is it war. The business
of America is justice and securing the blessings of liberty.
-- George F. Will

On Fri, 17 Aug 2012 11:40:51 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Well... I had a setback in trying to fire up the Syncrowave 300 I bought
from Ig.

My shop is in a 1968 hay barn (no hay now), and some of the wiring is
mine; some is original. My welding station works out of one of the
original distribution boxes around the structure.

I went to hook it up to test. I knew it could draw about 130 amps, so I
checked stuff. The main in the distro was 200A, but when I looked at the
wiring feeding that main, it was #8 (damn!). Well... it had worked for
years at 40 and 50 amps for my little Mig and buzz-box, so I thought I'd
hook up anyway, and try a low amperage setting.

Guys, except for my MIG, I've never done any DC welding, never owned a
TIG, and never had any high-frequency in any machines. This thing is
like a paradigm shift for me.

It welds so smoothly at 125A in stick mode that I can almost weld
blindfolded, just by listening to the arc. In TIG mode, it's so near
impossible not to strike a proper arc on the first try that you'd have to
work at it to fail.

This thing was built in the late '80s or early '90s, but it's more welder
I think I'll ever need. All copper, too!

Ig doesn't know it, but he's looking for some other shop tools for me.
G

LLoyd

They are indeed one hell of a machine.

Btw...be damned sure when Tig welding..that you wear all the
appropriate clothing over every bit of exposed to the arc skin you
can. The Syncrowaves are VERY heavy on UV..and will burn you so
quickly you wont know about it for a couple hours..then you damned
sure will know it.

I was testing mine (Still for sale btw) and wearing a short sleeve
shirt while simply testing electrode and tig modes..and got badly
burned. Normally I wear leather apron, leather coat and of course
good mask...and didnt. I was burned and crippled for 2 days.

But they are one hell of a machine!
Which is why they have been around for so long!

Gunner

One bleeding-heart type asked me in a recent interview if I did not
agree that "violence begets violence." I told him that it is my
earnest endeavor to see that it does. I would like very much to ensure
- and in some cases I have - that any man who offers violence to his
fellow citizen begets a whole lot more in return than he can enjoy.

- Jeff Cooper

On Fri, 17 Aug 2012 22:10:36 -0700, "Bruce L. Bergman (munged human
readable)" wrote:

On Fri, 17 Aug 2012 11:40:51 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Well... I had a setback in trying to fire up the Syncrowave 300 I bought
from Ig.

My shop is in a 1968 hay barn (no hay now), and some of the wiring is
mine; some is original. My welding station works out of one of the
original distribution boxes around the structure.

I went to hook it up to test. I knew it could draw about 130 amps, so I
checked stuff. The main in the distro was 200A, but when I looked at the
wiring feeding that main, it was #8 (damn!). Well... it had worked for
years at 40 and 50 amps for my little Mig and buzz-box, so I thought I'd
hook up anyway, and try a low amperage setting.


It's not only the size of the wire, it's the length. What size is the
Main Panel, and how far does the #8 have to go from the Main to the
Barn? Aerial or Underground?

It's real easy to run a larger wire and then swing the Barn service
over at your leisure.

It's not as easy but a lot more useful (especially if it's several
hundred feet to the House) if the Utility will give you a separate
service to the barn. Might even get 120/240V Open Delta or Full Delta
3-phase, and that's VERY useful if you want to get a real big welder,
compressor, lathe or mill...

The Power Utility gets to cheat the hell out of the Ampacity ratings
on their wires on the other side of the meter, and there's not a lot
you can do other than complain of excessive voltage drop measured at
the meter - They'll put in #1 AL for a 200A service drop from the pole
to the house, then you connect 3/0 Copper to it for in the riser.


Guys, except for my MIG, I've never done any DC welding, never owned a
TIG, and never had any high-frequency in any machines. This thing is
like a paradigm shift for me.

It welds so smoothly at 125A in stick mode that I can almost weld
blindfolded, just by listening to the arc. In TIG mode, it's so near
impossible not to strike a proper arc on the first try that you'd have to
work at it to fail.

But remember, the weld bead can be as beautiful as a Renoir Painting -
but if you don't get proper penetration on both sides of the bead (and
let it cool slowly so it doesn't crack, etc.) you aren't welding, just
spackling. And spackle fails real fast...

You have to make practice welds then put those sample coupons in the
bench vise and beat them to heck, and make sure the parent metal fails
first.


This thing was built in the late '80s or early '90s, but it's more welder
I think I'll ever need. All copper, too!

Ig doesn't know it, but he's looking for some other shop tools for me.
G

Does your Syncrowave have a sister? Preferably Engine Driven?

-- Bruce --

Need a tig capable gasoline welder? Ive got a Lincoln Ranger 9
available for $1800 and a 1943 Hobart 300 amp DC only on a trailer for
$800. Chrysler straight 6 converted to 12vts

The Ranger 9 (250 amps, 9000 watts generator/120-220) will also do MIG

both weld good.

Gunner

One bleeding-heart type asked me in a recent interview if I did not
agree that "violence begets violence." I told him that it is my
earnest endeavor to see that it does. I would like very much to ensure
- and in some cases I have - that any man who offers violence to his
fellow citizen begets a whole lot more in return than he can enjoy.

- Jeff Cooper

On Sat, 18 Aug 2012 07:22:16 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

"Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable)"
fired this volley in
:

It's not as easy but a lot more useful (especially if it's several
hundred feet to the House) if the Utility will give you a separate
service to the barn. Might even get 120/240V Open Delta or Full Delta
3-phase, and that's VERY useful if you want to get a real big welder,
compressor, lathe or mill...


Bruce, the barn is a commercial/agricultural building on its own service.
I'm completely compentent to size and run the correct wiring from the
meter can to the distribution box.

But remember, the weld bead can be as beautiful as a Renoir Painting -
but if you don't get proper penetration on both sides of the bead (and
let it cool slowly so it doesn't crack, etc.) you aren't welding, just
spackling. And spackle fails real fast...

I've been stick, MIG, and O/A brazing/cutting for decades (actually just
started O/A fusion welding about a year ago), Bruce. I can make and
recognize a good stick weld, even with a Craftsman buzz-box. I just never
realized how _easy_ it was until I got this nice welder.

And I never owned a TIG. That will be where the learning curve is for
me. I've already figured out that the puddle looks a lot different with
TIG than it does with OA welding. I've also figured out that with this
small #200 torch, #12 shade helmet lens is too dark, even when working on
aluminum. Probably it would be right for a bigger electrode, but not for
an .040" tungsten at low amperage.

Lloyd

Thats where a decent autodark with density adjustment hood really
comes in handy. Along with "cheaters" inside so you dont need to wear
glasses.

Gunner

One bleeding-heart type asked me in a recent interview if I did not
agree that "violence begets violence." I told him that it is my
earnest endeavor to see that it does. I would like very much to ensure
- and in some cases I have - that any man who offers violence to his
fellow citizen begets a whole lot more in return than he can enjoy.

- Jeff Cooper

On Sat, 18 Aug 2012 15:02:52 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

"Pete C." fired this volley in news:502fa96a$0$14604
:

For $50 or less with coupon for the HF autos, who cares?

ACtually... there is a concern. Some of the cheaper ones turn off
unexpectedly. If you don't use one often enough to recognize that it's
off, and "re-tap" the glass to turn them back on, you could get a shot of
light you don't expect or want.

If the folks kibbitzing aren't experienced with auto-darkening helmets (I
have one... I meant "set to #12 shade" earlier), then I'd suggest that a
fixed lens is better for safety.

LLoyd


The Harbor Freight hoods work just fine. Ive got 2 in the rack and I
may grab one of them, or the $450 Openel. Whichever is closest.

Gunner

One bleeding-heart type asked me in a recent interview if I did not
agree that "violence begets violence." I told him that it is my
earnest endeavor to see that it does. I would like very much to ensure
- and in some cases I have - that any man who offers violence to his
fellow citizen begets a whole lot more in return than he can enjoy.

- Jeff Cooper

Larry Jaques wrote:

On Sat, 18 Aug 2012 15:40:35 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


dpb wrote:

On 8/18/2012 7:22 AM, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
...

... I've also figured out that with this
small #200 torch, #12 shade helmet lens is too dark, even when working on
aluminum. Probably it would be right for a bigger electrode,...

Yeah, I'd not had a auto-shade helmet, either, and Dad's didn't fit well
so I bought an moderate one (I can't bring myself to trust HF for this
kind of thing). It's too dark for everything I've done to date since
even w/ a standard arc; can just barely see anything. I suppose again
if I had it cranked full bore it might be ok, but all in all it's not
been the help I was expecting...

--

I have a Jackson EQC and an HF, both work just fine. The EQC has about
3x the window area and 6x the price.

How does a larger or wide-angle lens help when the area of focus is so
small?

It helps in seeing you position relative to the part, and particularly
when changing positions or moving clamps or the like.

Gunner Gunner Asch fired this volley in
:

Thats where a decent autodark with density adjustment hood really
comes in handy. Along with "cheaters" inside so you dont need to wear
glasses.


I've got a good one. I cranked it up to #12, and found it too dark for a #
200 torch, even on aluminum.

LLoyd

On 2012-08-19, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
Gunner Gunner Asch fired this volley in
:

Thats where a decent autodark with density adjustment hood really
comes in handy. Along with "cheaters" inside so you dont need to wear
glasses.


I've got a good one. I cranked it up to #12, and found it too dark for a #
200 torch, even on aluminum.

I use #8 almost always.

Indeed, do cover up your skin when TIG welding.

i

On Sat, 18 Aug 2012 19:24:15 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Gunner Gunner Asch fired this volley in
:

Thats where a decent autodark with density adjustment hood really
comes in handy. Along with "cheaters" inside so you dont need to wear
glasses.


I've got a good one. I cranked it up to #12, and found it too dark for a #
200 torch, even on aluminum.

LLoyd


Of course 12 is too dark. Somewhere between 7-9 is more the range for
average tig welding.

Gunner

One bleeding-heart type asked me in a recent interview if I did not
agree that "violence begets violence." I told him that it is my
earnest endeavor to see that it does. I would like very much to ensure
- and in some cases I have - that any man who offers violence to his
fellow citizen begets a whole lot more in return than he can enjoy.

- Jeff Cooper

Gunner Gunner Asch fired this volley in
:

Of course 12 is too dark. Somewhere between 7-9 is more the range for
average tig welding.

No, not "of course". I've never done any TIG welding. I was going on
advice that apparently wasn't accurate.

The only book I have on GTAW recommends a dark shade for aluminum work, at
least a #10. Ok... so it was too dark...

In an unfamiliar process, start safe, work back.

LLoyd

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote:

Gunner Gunner Asch fired this volley in
:

Of course 12 is too dark. Somewhere between 7-9 is more the range for
average tig welding.

No, not "of course". I've never done any TIG welding. I was going on
advice that apparently wasn't accurate.

The only book I have on GTAW recommends a dark shade for aluminum work, at
least a #10. Ok... so it was too dark...

In an unfamiliar process, start safe, work back.

LLoyd

There were some pretty good guides available for download on the Miller
site last time I looked, and of course you can spend the $5 or so and
order the complete set of welding calculators (cardboard slide rule
type) they have which are great for finding starting settings for a
particular task.

On 08/18/2012 04:52 PM, Gunner wrote:

The Harbor Freight hoods work just fine. Ive got 2 in the rack and I
may grab one of them, or the $450 Openel. Whichever is closest.

My HF (actually Western Safety) still works, but if you look at a
fluorescent bulb with it, the shading across the lens is not uniform.
There are darker and lighter areas, sort of like a nebula nebula would
look in b/w.

I don't know if they are all like this, or maybe I just got a bummer
element.

I have no doubts as to the safety provided by the unit, but it has
likely added an additional level of difficulty to my welding.

Jon ---- blaming his helmet

On 2012-08-19, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
Gunner Gunner Asch fired this volley in
:

Of course 12 is too dark. Somewhere between 7-9 is more the range for
average tig welding.

No, not "of course". I've never done any TIG welding. I was going on
advice that apparently wasn't accurate.

The only book I have on GTAW recommends a dark shade for aluminum work, at
least a #10. Ok... so it was too dark...

In an unfamiliar process, start safe, work back.

LLoyd

Lloyd, one thing to remember is that in a welding helmet, your eyes
are always safe and protected from UV light. The shade only controls
how comfortable you are and how easy it is to see what you need to
see.

The more amps, the brighter the light from the arc, and the greater is
a shade number.

I am almost always happy with shade number 8.

But then, I do not weld aluminum.

i

On 8/19/2012 9:08 AM, Jon Danniken wrote:
....

My HF (actually Western Safety) still works, but if you look at a
fluorescent bulb with it, the shading across the lens is not uniform.
....

I have no doubts as to the safety provided by the unit, but it has
likely added an additional level of difficulty to my welding.
....

I can't bring myself to trust HF QC to that point...maybe they are
ensuring the glass _always_ meets ANSI Z-spec's but I just am not that
sure they care whether their vendors really do what they say they do or
not in pursuit of bottom-dollar pricing...but maybe I'm just paranoid

--

On Sun, 19 Aug 2012 07:08:44 -0700, Jon Danniken
wrote:

On 08/18/2012 04:52 PM, Gunner wrote:

The Harbor Freight hoods work just fine. Ive got 2 in the rack and I
may grab one of them, or the $450 Openel. Whichever is closest.

My HF (actually Western Safety) still works, but if you look at a
fluorescent bulb with it, the shading across the lens is not uniform.
There are darker and lighter areas, sort of like a nebula nebula would
look in b/w.

I don't know if they are all like this, or maybe I just got a bummer
element.

I have no doubts as to the safety provided by the unit, but it has
likely added an additional level of difficulty to my welding.

Do you see the nebula during welding? No, I didn't think so.
In that case, it doesn't, sorry.


Jon ---- blaming his helmet

LJ, shaking his head and laughing.

--
The business of America is not business. Neither is it war. The business
of America is justice and securing the blessings of liberty.
-- George F. Will

Ignoramus3194 fired this volley in
:

Lloyd, one thing to remember is that in a welding helmet, your eyes
are always safe and protected from UV light. The shade only controls
how comfortable you are and how easy it is to see what you need to
see.

I have to disagree with that, just a LEETLE bit...

I've been stick welding for a long time. I bought an auto-darkening
helmet about ten years back, and it was a boon for the quality of my
work.

However, I have done day-long stints with both fixed lenses and with the
auto-dark version, and I have to say that after about five hours of
actual arc time, you get the "sand in the eyes" problem with the auto-
dark lens that you don't get with the fixed lens.

I've been told by my Forney guy that it's because the automatic lens
doesn't switch fast enough to stop all the UV, and because (despite
claims to the otherwise) they permit quite a bit to penetrate until they
darken.

Some pros I know won't use them at all for that reason; because they weld
all day, every day.

I still use it -- no, I love it. But I know its limitations.

LLoyd

On Aug 19, 12:46*pm, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:



I've been told by my Forney guy that it's because the automatic lens
doesn't switch fast enough to stop all the UV, and because (despite
claims to the otherwise) they permit quite a bit to penetrate until they
darken.

Some pros I know won't use them at all for that reason; because they weld
all day, every day.

I still use it -- no, I love it. *But I know its limitations.

LLoyd

Take a look at http://www.plasticgenius.com/2011/05...nsmission.html
Buried down in the middle to end of this webpage it shows the UV
transmission of Lexan.

I think that the UV is filtered out whether the lense is open or
closed. But the visible light probably causes the eye irritation.
You could always add an additional lexan sheet as used to prevent the
filter from being scratched and see if that makes a difference.

Five hours of just reading makes my eyes sore.

Dan

" fired this volley in news:ec580156-
:

I think that the UV is filtered out whether the lense is open or
closed. But the visible light probably causes the eye irritation.
You could always add an additional lexan sheet as used to prevent the
filter from being scratched and see if that makes a difference.


I guess that's if the auto-dark lens is made of polycarbonate, huh?

I _know_ the face cover and back cover slips are made of acrylic
(plexiglas), because that's how they're labeled as sold.

I do not know that the Liquid Crystal component is made from lexan,
polycarbonate, butadiene/styrene copolymer, or pig poop. It's not
documented with my helmet.

I do know that with a fixed glass lens I do not get sore eyes, and with
the auto-darkening helmet I do. I also know that both provide identical
side and bottom shielding (being of the same make, the only difference
being the lenses).

Although I'm in my 60s, I do not get sore eyes after even ten hours of
continuous reading. (not yet, anyway).

LLoyd

Gunner Asch fired this volley in
:

Virtually every TIG welding shop Ive ever been in..and its been a
****load...has hoods with bibs attached to them. And those guys spend
8
hrs a day with a tig in their hands.

Both mine have bibs, and I wear a black cotton long sleeved shirt while
welding (and leather apron when necessary, but I do mostly flat work).

I've had my share of welder's tan, and don't like it.

This isn't coming in under or at the sides. I wrote a different post
about comparing my two _identical_ helmets, one with auto-dark, and the
other with a fixed tint lens.

LLoyd

On Aug 19, 2:49*pm, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
" fired this volley in news:ec580156-
:

I think that the UV is filtered out whether the lense is open or
closed. *But the visible light probably causes the eye irritation.
You could always add an additional lexan sheet as used to prevent the
filter from being scratched and see if that makes a difference.

I guess that's if the auto-dark lens is made of polycarbonate, huh?

I _know_ the face cover and back cover slips are made of acrylic
(plexiglas), because that's how they're labeled as sold.

I do not know that the Liquid Crystal component is made from lexan,
polycarbonate, butadiene/styrene copolymer, or pig poop. *It's not
documented with my helmet.

I do know that with a fixed glass lens I do not get sore eyes, and with
the auto-darkening helmet I do. *I also know that both provide identical
side and bottom shielding (being of the same make, the only difference
being the lenses).

Although I'm in my 60s, I do not get sore eyes after even ten hours of
continuous reading. (not yet, anyway).

LLoyd

I think all the clear plastic lens protectors are made of
polycarbonate. If not they should be. Polycarbonate ( lexan ) is
more scratch resistant than most plastics.


see http://weldingdirect.com/10pacclearle1.html

My brain gets sore after five hours of reading. But then I am older
than you.


Dan

On 8/19/2012 3:43 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 19 Aug 2012 09:40:45 -0500, wrote:
On 8/19/2012 9:08 AM, Jon Danniken wrote:
...
My HF (actually Western Safety) still works, ...
...

I have no doubts as to the safety provided by the unit, ...
...

I can't bring myself to trust HF QC to that point...maybe they are
ensuring the glass _always_ meets ANSI Z-spec's but I just am not that
sure they care ...


Of all the HF stuff out there..the autodark hoods are one of their best
items....

Well "their" w/ HF is all relative. I see today they're saying "Chicago
Welding" brand. W(ho)TH is Chicago Welding? Some noname Chinese
importing outfit in all likelihood. One can't find a thing out about
them other than HF sells stuff w/ the brand.

Who knows what spec's they actually meet and where do you go to find out?

Maybe they're as good as anybody else's but I don't have much confidence
that the next one will be the same as somebody else's was.

--

On Sun, 19 Aug 2012 17:54:26 -0500, the renowned dpb
wrote:

On 8/19/2012 3:43 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 19 Aug 2012 09:40:45 -0500, wrote:
On 8/19/2012 9:08 AM, Jon Danniken wrote:
...
My HF (actually Western Safety) still works, ...
...

I have no doubts as to the safety provided by the unit, ...
...

I can't bring myself to trust HF QC to that point...maybe they are
ensuring the glass _always_ meets ANSI Z-spec's but I just am not that
sure they care ...


Of all the HF stuff out there..the autodark hoods are one of their best
items....

Well "their" w/ HF is all relative. I see today they're saying "Chicago
Welding" brand. W(ho)TH is Chicago Welding? Some noname Chinese
importing outfit in all likelihood. One can't find a thing out about
them other than HF sells stuff w/ the brand.

It's HF's store brand, like Kirkland at Costco.

Who knows what spec's they actually meet and where do you go to find out?

Maybe they're as good as anybody else's but I don't have much confidence
that the next one will be the same as somebody else's was.

It could come from a different factory in a different province. Your
confidence (such as it is) has to come from HF itself.


Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com

" writes:


Take a look at http://www.plasticgenius.com/2011/05...nd-ultraviole=
t-transmission.html
Buried down in the middle to end of this webpage it shows the UV
transmission of Lexan.

Nod, plastic blocks UV. Even glass does to some extent.
There are flame detectors (Edison Omniguard
http://www.autoctrls.com/acatalog/omniguard_Model_860.html)
that work on UV. In the explosion-proof models, the windows are
quartz not glass.
--
A host is a host from coast to
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com writes:


I've had my share of welder's tan, and don't like it.

I was a spectator, so don't give me crapola on this.

A few decades back a friend was trying to cut the rotted
wheelwells out of a bus to patch same. I showed up around 2200
and could see the work from a quarter-mile away....

He was using a stick welder with some old theater projector
carbon rods. He had on a long sleeve shirt, gloves & a regular
mask with sunglasses underneath. The next day, he had sunburned
lower arms and owl-eyes from facial sunburn.
--
A host is a host from coast to
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

David Lesher fired this volley in news:k0rtac$48b$1
@reader1.panix.com:

He was using a stick welder with some old theater projector
carbon rods.

Gouging puts out more UV than any other operation.

In addition, even fabric has "holes" between the threads of the weave. You
pump enough UV long enough, and still enough of it gets through.

LLoyd

On 2012-08-19, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
David Lesher fired this volley in news:k0rtac$48b$1
@reader1.panix.com:

He was using a stick welder with some old theater projector
carbon rods.

Gouging puts out more UV than any other operation.

In addition, even fabric has "holes" between the threads of the weave. You
pump enough UV long enough, and still enough of it gets through.

LLoyd

We were going to carbon-arc cut a big turbine, so this was very
relevant, thanks.

i