Well... I had a setback in trying to fire up the Syncrowave 300 I bought
from Ig.

My shop is in a 1968 hay barn (no hay now), and some of the wiring is
mine; some is original. My welding station works out of one of the
original distribution boxes around the structure.

I went to hook it up to test. I knew it could draw about 130 amps, so I
checked stuff. The main in the distro was 200A, but when I looked at the
wiring feeding that main, it was #8 (damn!). Well... it had worked for
years at 40 and 50 amps for my little Mig and buzz-box, so I thought I'd
hook up anyway, and try a low amperage setting.

Guys, except for my MIG, I've never done any DC welding, never owned a
TIG, and never had any high-frequency in any machines. This thing is
like a paradigm shift for me.

It welds so smoothly at 125A in stick mode that I can almost weld
blindfolded, just by listening to the arc. In TIG mode, it's so near
impossible not to strike a proper arc on the first try that you'd have to
work at it to fail.

This thing was built in the late '80s or early '90s, but it's more welder
I think I'll ever need. All copper, too!

Ig doesn't know it, but he's looking for some other shop tools for me.
G

LLoyd

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote:

Well... I had a setback in trying to fire up the Syncrowave 300 I bought
from Ig.

My shop is in a 1968 hay barn (no hay now), and some of the wiring is
mine; some is original. My welding station works out of one of the
original distribution boxes around the structure.

I went to hook it up to test. I knew it could draw about 130 amps, so I
checked stuff. The main in the distro was 200A, but when I looked at the
wiring feeding that main, it was #8 (damn!). Well... it had worked for
years at 40 and 50 amps for my little Mig and buzz-box, so I thought I'd
hook up anyway, and try a low amperage setting.

Guys, except for my MIG, I've never done any DC welding, never owned a
TIG, and never had any high-frequency in any machines. This thing is
like a paradigm shift for me.

It welds so smoothly at 125A in stick mode that I can almost weld
blindfolded, just by listening to the arc. In TIG mode, it's so near
impossible not to strike a proper arc on the first try that you'd have to
work at it to fail.

This thing was built in the late '80s or early '90s, but it's more welder
I think I'll ever need. All copper, too!

Ig doesn't know it, but he's looking for some other shop tools for me.
G

LLoyd

The Syncrowaves are great machines. The machine is so good it enables an
occasional hobby welder to make good welds. I'll never part with my
Syncrowave 250.

somecomments.

thanks for being a great customer

150a is all you need for steel, al may require more.

this is truly a gentleman's welder.

i love buying and selling welders and welding rod.

On 2012-08-17, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
Well... I had a setback in trying to fire up the Syncrowave 300 I bought
from Ig.

My shop is in a 1968 hay barn (no hay now), and some of the wiring is
mine; some is original. My welding station works out of one of the
original distribution boxes around the structure.

I went to hook it up to test. I knew it could draw about 130 amps, so I
checked stuff. The main in the distro was 200A, but when I looked at the
wiring feeding that main, it was #8 (damn!). Well... it had worked for
years at 40 and 50 amps for my little Mig and buzz-box, so I thought I'd
hook up anyway, and try a low amperage setting.

Guys, except for my MIG, I've never done any DC welding, never owned a
TIG, and never had any high-frequency in any machines. This thing is
like a paradigm shift for me.

It welds so smoothly at 125A in stick mode that I can almost weld
blindfolded, just by listening to the arc. In TIG mode, it's so near
impossible not to strike a proper arc on the first try that you'd have to
work at it to fail.

This thing was built in the late '80s or early '90s, but it's more welder
I think I'll ever need. All copper, too!

Ig doesn't know it, but he's looking for some other shop tools for me.
G

LLoyd

On Fri, 17 Aug 2012 11:40:51 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Well... I had a setback in trying to fire up the Syncrowave 300 I bought
from Ig.

My shop is in a 1968 hay barn (no hay now), and some of the wiring is
mine; some is original. My welding station works out of one of the
original distribution boxes around the structure.

I went to hook it up to test. I knew it could draw about 130 amps, so I
checked stuff. The main in the distro was 200A, but when I looked at the
wiring feeding that main, it was #8 (damn!). Well... it had worked for
years at 40 and 50 amps for my little Mig and buzz-box, so I thought I'd
hook up anyway, and try a low amperage setting.


It's not only the size of the wire, it's the length. What size is the
Main Panel, and how far does the #8 have to go from the Main to the
Barn? Aerial or Underground?

It's real easy to run a larger wire and then swing the Barn service
over at your leisure.

It's not as easy but a lot more useful (especially if it's several
hundred feet to the House) if the Utility will give you a separate
service to the barn. Might even get 120/240V Open Delta or Full Delta
3-phase, and that's VERY useful if you want to get a real big welder,
compressor, lathe or mill...

The Power Utility gets to cheat the hell out of the Ampacity ratings
on their wires on the other side of the meter, and there's not a lot
you can do other than complain of excessive voltage drop measured at
the meter - They'll put in #1 AL for a 200A service drop from the pole
to the house, then you connect 3/0 Copper to it for in the riser.


Guys, except for my MIG, I've never done any DC welding, never owned a
TIG, and never had any high-frequency in any machines. This thing is
like a paradigm shift for me.

It welds so smoothly at 125A in stick mode that I can almost weld
blindfolded, just by listening to the arc. In TIG mode, it's so near
impossible not to strike a proper arc on the first try that you'd have to
work at it to fail.

But remember, the weld bead can be as beautiful as a Renoir Painting -
but if you don't get proper penetration on both sides of the bead (and
let it cool slowly so it doesn't crack, etc.) you aren't welding, just
spackling. And spackle fails real fast...

You have to make practice welds then put those sample coupons in the
bench vise and beat them to heck, and make sure the parent metal fails
first.


This thing was built in the late '80s or early '90s, but it's more welder
I think I'll ever need. All copper, too!

Ig doesn't know it, but he's looking for some other shop tools for me.
G

Does your Syncrowave have a sister? Preferably Engine Driven?

-- Bruce --

"Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable)"
fired this volley in
:

It's not as easy but a lot more useful (especially if it's several
hundred feet to the House) if the Utility will give you a separate
service to the barn. Might even get 120/240V Open Delta or Full Delta
3-phase, and that's VERY useful if you want to get a real big welder,
compressor, lathe or mill...


Bruce, the barn is a commercial/agricultural building on its own service.
I'm completely compentent to size and run the correct wiring from the
meter can to the distribution box.

But remember, the weld bead can be as beautiful as a Renoir Painting -
but if you don't get proper penetration on both sides of the bead (and
let it cool slowly so it doesn't crack, etc.) you aren't welding, just
spackling. And spackle fails real fast...

I've been stick, MIG, and O/A brazing/cutting for decades (actually just
started O/A fusion welding about a year ago), Bruce. I can make and
recognize a good stick weld, even with a Craftsman buzz-box. I just never
realized how _easy_ it was until I got this nice welder.

And I never owned a TIG. That will be where the learning curve is for
me. I've already figured out that the puddle looks a lot different with
TIG than it does with OA welding. I've also figured out that with this
small #200 torch, #12 shade helmet lens is too dark, even when working on
aluminum. Probably it would be right for a bigger electrode, but not for
an .040" tungsten at low amperage.

Lloyd

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote:

I've been stick, MIG, and O/A brazing/cutting for decades (actually just
started O/A fusion welding about a year ago), Bruce. I can make and
recognize a good stick weld, even with a Craftsman buzz-box. I just never
realized how _easy_ it was until I got this nice welder.

A good machine certainly makes a difference. The arc control setting on
the Syncrowave certainly helps when stick welding, particularly if you
rarely do stick.


And I never owned a TIG. That will be where the learning curve is for
me. I've already figured out that the puddle looks a lot different with
TIG than it does with OA welding. I've also figured out that with this
small #200 torch, #12 shade helmet lens is too dark, even when working on
aluminum. Probably it would be right for a bigger electrode, but not for
an .040" tungsten at low amperage.

Invest in a good adjustable auto helmet like a Jackson EQC. Also invest
in a couple of the Harbor Freight $50 auto helmets for assistants. They
make life a lot easier, particularly since you can move from one weld
position to the next or even rearrange clamps without bothering to lift
the helmet.

On 2012-08-18, Pete C. wrote:

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote:

I've been stick, MIG, and O/A brazing/cutting for decades (actually just
started O/A fusion welding about a year ago), Bruce. I can make and
recognize a good stick weld, even with a Craftsman buzz-box. I just never
realized how _easy_ it was until I got this nice welder.

A good machine certainly makes a difference. The arc control setting on
the Syncrowave certainly helps when stick welding, particularly if you
rarely do stick.


And I never owned a TIG. That will be where the learning curve is for
me. I've already figured out that the puddle looks a lot different with
TIG than it does with OA welding. I've also figured out that with this
small #200 torch, #12 shade helmet lens is too dark, even when working on
aluminum. Probably it would be right for a bigger electrode, but not for
an .040" tungsten at low amperage.

Invest in a good adjustable auto helmet like a Jackson EQC. Also invest
in a couple of the Harbor Freight $50 auto helmets for assistants. They
make life a lot easier, particularly since you can move from one weld
position to the next or even rearrange clamps without bothering to lift
the helmet.

Assistants do not need autodarkening helmets, you can get by with old
darkened glass helmets.

i

Ignoramus15734 wrote:

On 2012-08-18, Pete C. wrote:

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote:

I've been stick, MIG, and O/A brazing/cutting for decades (actually just
started O/A fusion welding about a year ago), Bruce. I can make and
recognize a good stick weld, even with a Craftsman buzz-box. I just never
realized how _easy_ it was until I got this nice welder.

A good machine certainly makes a difference. The arc control setting on
the Syncrowave certainly helps when stick welding, particularly if you
rarely do stick.


And I never owned a TIG. That will be where the learning curve is for
me. I've already figured out that the puddle looks a lot different with
TIG than it does with OA welding. I've also figured out that with this
small #200 torch, #12 shade helmet lens is too dark, even when working on
aluminum. Probably it would be right for a bigger electrode, but not for
an .040" tungsten at low amperage.

Invest in a good adjustable auto helmet like a Jackson EQC. Also invest
in a couple of the Harbor Freight $50 auto helmets for assistants. They
make life a lot easier, particularly since you can move from one weld
position to the next or even rearrange clamps without bothering to lift
the helmet.

Assistants do not need autodarkening helmets, you can get by with old
darkened glass helmets.

For $50 or less with coupon for the HF autos, who cares?

On Sat, 18 Aug 2012 09:30:45 -0500, Ignoramus15734
wrote:

On 2012-08-18, Pete C. wrote:

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote:

I've been stick, MIG, and O/A brazing/cutting for decades (actually just
started O/A fusion welding about a year ago), Bruce. I can make and
recognize a good stick weld, even with a Craftsman buzz-box. I just never
realized how _easy_ it was until I got this nice welder.

A good machine certainly makes a difference. The arc control setting on
the Syncrowave certainly helps when stick welding, particularly if you
rarely do stick.


And I never owned a TIG. That will be where the learning curve is for
me. I've already figured out that the puddle looks a lot different with
TIG than it does with OA welding. I've also figured out that with this
small #200 torch, #12 shade helmet lens is too dark, even when working on
aluminum. Probably it would be right for a bigger electrode, but not for
an .040" tungsten at low amperage.

Invest in a good adjustable auto helmet like a Jackson EQC. Also invest
in a couple of the Harbor Freight $50 auto helmets for assistants. They
make life a lot easier, particularly since you can move from one weld
position to the next or even rearrange clamps without bothering to lift
the helmet.

Assistants do not need autodarkening helmets, you can get by with old
darkened glass helmets.

I've hardly used my new (ADH) autodarkening helmet, but I would think
that they would be indispensible to assistants, too. They could see
WTF they were doing helping you position something to weld, etc. Dark
glass is a bitch to work with and my welding improved immediately upon
purchase of the ADH. Some day it'll even be good.

--
The business of America is not business. Neither is it war. The business
of America is justice and securing the blessings of liberty.
-- George F. Will

On 8/18/2012 7:22 AM, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
....

... I've also figured out that with this
small #200 torch, #12 shade helmet lens is too dark, even when working on
aluminum. Probably it would be right for a bigger electrode,...

Yeah, I'd not had a auto-shade helmet, either, and Dad's didn't fit well
so I bought an moderate one (I can't bring myself to trust HF for this
kind of thing). It's too dark for everything I've done to date since
even w/ a standard arc; can just barely see anything. I suppose again
if I had it cranked full bore it might be ok, but all in all it's not
been the help I was expecting...

--

dpb wrote:

On 8/18/2012 7:22 AM, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
...

... I've also figured out that with this
small #200 torch, #12 shade helmet lens is too dark, even when working on
aluminum. Probably it would be right for a bigger electrode,...

Yeah, I'd not had a auto-shade helmet, either, and Dad's didn't fit well
so I bought an moderate one (I can't bring myself to trust HF for this
kind of thing). It's too dark for everything I've done to date since
even w/ a standard arc; can just barely see anything. I suppose again
if I had it cranked full bore it might be ok, but all in all it's not
been the help I was expecting...

--

I have a Jackson EQC and an HF, both work just fine. The EQC has about
3x the window area and 6x the price.

On Sat, 18 Aug 2012 15:40:35 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


dpb wrote:

On 8/18/2012 7:22 AM, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
...

... I've also figured out that with this
small #200 torch, #12 shade helmet lens is too dark, even when working on
aluminum. Probably it would be right for a bigger electrode,...

Yeah, I'd not had a auto-shade helmet, either, and Dad's didn't fit well
so I bought an moderate one (I can't bring myself to trust HF for this
kind of thing). It's too dark for everything I've done to date since
even w/ a standard arc; can just barely see anything. I suppose again
if I had it cranked full bore it might be ok, but all in all it's not
been the help I was expecting...

--

I have a Jackson EQC and an HF, both work just fine. The EQC has about
3x the window area and 6x the price.

How does a larger or wide-angle lens help when the area of focus is so
small?

--
The business of America is not business. Neither is it war. The business
of America is justice and securing the blessings of liberty.
-- George F. Will

On Sat, 18 Aug 2012 07:22:16 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

"Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable)"
fired this volley in
:

It's not as easy but a lot more useful (especially if it's several
hundred feet to the House) if the Utility will give you a separate
service to the barn. Might even get 120/240V Open Delta or Full Delta
3-phase, and that's VERY useful if you want to get a real big welder,
compressor, lathe or mill...


Bruce, the barn is a commercial/agricultural building on its own service.
I'm completely compentent to size and run the correct wiring from the
meter can to the distribution box.

But remember, the weld bead can be as beautiful as a Renoir Painting -
but if you don't get proper penetration on both sides of the bead (and
let it cool slowly so it doesn't crack, etc.) you aren't welding, just
spackling. And spackle fails real fast...

I've been stick, MIG, and O/A brazing/cutting for decades (actually just
started O/A fusion welding about a year ago), Bruce. I can make and
recognize a good stick weld, even with a Craftsman buzz-box. I just never
realized how _easy_ it was until I got this nice welder.

And I never owned a TIG. That will be where the learning curve is for
me. I've already figured out that the puddle looks a lot different with
TIG than it does with OA welding. I've also figured out that with this
small #200 torch, #12 shade helmet lens is too dark, even when working on
aluminum. Probably it would be right for a bigger electrode, but not for
an .040" tungsten at low amperage.

Lloyd

Thats where a decent autodark with density adjustment hood really
comes in handy. Along with "cheaters" inside so you dont need to wear
glasses.

Gunner

One bleeding-heart type asked me in a recent interview if I did not
agree that "violence begets violence." I told him that it is my
earnest endeavor to see that it does. I would like very much to ensure
- and in some cases I have - that any man who offers violence to his
fellow citizen begets a whole lot more in return than he can enjoy.

- Jeff Cooper

Gunner Gunner Asch fired this volley in
:

Thats where a decent autodark with density adjustment hood really
comes in handy. Along with "cheaters" inside so you dont need to wear
glasses.


I've got a good one. I cranked it up to #12, and found it too dark for a #
200 torch, even on aluminum.

LLoyd

On 2012-08-19, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
Gunner Gunner Asch fired this volley in
:

Thats where a decent autodark with density adjustment hood really
comes in handy. Along with "cheaters" inside so you dont need to wear
glasses.


I've got a good one. I cranked it up to #12, and found it too dark for a #
200 torch, even on aluminum.

I use #8 almost always.

Indeed, do cover up your skin when TIG welding.

i

On Sat, 18 Aug 2012 19:24:15 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Gunner Gunner Asch fired this volley in
:

Thats where a decent autodark with density adjustment hood really
comes in handy. Along with "cheaters" inside so you dont need to wear
glasses.


I've got a good one. I cranked it up to #12, and found it too dark for a #
200 torch, even on aluminum.

LLoyd


Of course 12 is too dark. Somewhere between 7-9 is more the range for
average tig welding.

Gunner

One bleeding-heart type asked me in a recent interview if I did not
agree that "violence begets violence." I told him that it is my
earnest endeavor to see that it does. I would like very much to ensure
- and in some cases I have - that any man who offers violence to his
fellow citizen begets a whole lot more in return than he can enjoy.

- Jeff Cooper

On Fri, 17 Aug 2012 22:10:36 -0700, "Bruce L. Bergman (munged human
readable)" wrote:

On Fri, 17 Aug 2012 11:40:51 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Well... I had a setback in trying to fire up the Syncrowave 300 I bought
from Ig.

My shop is in a 1968 hay barn (no hay now), and some of the wiring is
mine; some is original. My welding station works out of one of the
original distribution boxes around the structure.

I went to hook it up to test. I knew it could draw about 130 amps, so I
checked stuff. The main in the distro was 200A, but when I looked at the
wiring feeding that main, it was #8 (damn!). Well... it had worked for
years at 40 and 50 amps for my little Mig and buzz-box, so I thought I'd
hook up anyway, and try a low amperage setting.


It's not only the size of the wire, it's the length. What size is the
Main Panel, and how far does the #8 have to go from the Main to the
Barn? Aerial or Underground?

It's real easy to run a larger wire and then swing the Barn service
over at your leisure.

It's not as easy but a lot more useful (especially if it's several
hundred feet to the House) if the Utility will give you a separate
service to the barn. Might even get 120/240V Open Delta or Full Delta
3-phase, and that's VERY useful if you want to get a real big welder,
compressor, lathe or mill...

The Power Utility gets to cheat the hell out of the Ampacity ratings
on their wires on the other side of the meter, and there's not a lot
you can do other than complain of excessive voltage drop measured at
the meter - They'll put in #1 AL for a 200A service drop from the pole
to the house, then you connect 3/0 Copper to it for in the riser.


Guys, except for my MIG, I've never done any DC welding, never owned a
TIG, and never had any high-frequency in any machines. This thing is
like a paradigm shift for me.

It welds so smoothly at 125A in stick mode that I can almost weld
blindfolded, just by listening to the arc. In TIG mode, it's so near
impossible not to strike a proper arc on the first try that you'd have to
work at it to fail.

But remember, the weld bead can be as beautiful as a Renoir Painting -
but if you don't get proper penetration on both sides of the bead (and
let it cool slowly so it doesn't crack, etc.) you aren't welding, just
spackling. And spackle fails real fast...

You have to make practice welds then put those sample coupons in the
bench vise and beat them to heck, and make sure the parent metal fails
first.


This thing was built in the late '80s or early '90s, but it's more welder
I think I'll ever need. All copper, too!

Ig doesn't know it, but he's looking for some other shop tools for me.
G

Does your Syncrowave have a sister? Preferably Engine Driven?

-- Bruce --

Need a tig capable gasoline welder? Ive got a Lincoln Ranger 9
available for $1800 and a 1943 Hobart 300 amp DC only on a trailer for
$800. Chrysler straight 6 converted to 12vts

The Ranger 9 (250 amps, 9000 watts generator/120-220) will also do MIG

both weld good.

Gunner

One bleeding-heart type asked me in a recent interview if I did not
agree that "violence begets violence." I told him that it is my
earnest endeavor to see that it does. I would like very much to ensure
- and in some cases I have - that any man who offers violence to his
fellow citizen begets a whole lot more in return than he can enjoy.

- Jeff Cooper

On Fri, 17 Aug 2012 11:40:51 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Well... I had a setback in trying to fire up the Syncrowave 300 I bought
from Ig.

My shop is in a 1968 hay barn (no hay now), and some of the wiring is
mine; some is original. My welding station works out of one of the
original distribution boxes around the structure.

I went to hook it up to test. I knew it could draw about 130 amps, so I
checked stuff. The main in the distro was 200A, but when I looked at the
wiring feeding that main, it was #8 (damn!). Well... it had worked for
years at 40 and 50 amps for my little Mig and buzz-box, so I thought I'd
hook up anyway, and try a low amperage setting.

Guys, except for my MIG, I've never done any DC welding, never owned a
TIG, and never had any high-frequency in any machines. This thing is
like a paradigm shift for me.

It welds so smoothly at 125A in stick mode that I can almost weld
blindfolded, just by listening to the arc. In TIG mode, it's so near
impossible not to strike a proper arc on the first try that you'd have to
work at it to fail.

This thing was built in the late '80s or early '90s, but it's more welder
I think I'll ever need. All copper, too!

Ig doesn't know it, but he's looking for some other shop tools for me.
G

LLoyd

They are indeed one hell of a machine.

Btw...be damned sure when Tig welding..that you wear all the
appropriate clothing over every bit of exposed to the arc skin you
can. The Syncrowaves are VERY heavy on UV..and will burn you so
quickly you wont know about it for a couple hours..then you damned
sure will know it.

I was testing mine (Still for sale btw) and wearing a short sleeve
shirt while simply testing electrode and tig modes..and got badly
burned. Normally I wear leather apron, leather coat and of course
good mask...and didnt. I was burned and crippled for 2 days.

But they are one hell of a machine!
Which is why they have been around for so long!

Gunner

One bleeding-heart type asked me in a recent interview if I did not
agree that "violence begets violence." I told him that it is my
earnest endeavor to see that it does. I would like very much to ensure
- and in some cases I have - that any man who offers violence to his
fellow citizen begets a whole lot more in return than he can enjoy.

- Jeff Cooper