I picked up a used $10 Nutone 300 cfm vent fan that I want to use over
my welding table. THe problem is that the fan motor runs - slowly (it
is rated at 1600 RPM). THe exact replacement motor is the same cost
as buying a new fan asm (about $155+). THis is a 3.3 inch (dia),
single speed, double shafted shaded pole motor. If I open up the
motor can, is there any hope of a minor repair? I have already lubed
the sleeve brgs - no change in RPM. Running it for 30 sec to a
minute, the motor sounds OK and the motor does not heat up, nor does
it smell burnt.

The Nutone motor number is 58840. It looks like Grainger has a
similar motor (hex mounting feature on the ends, but w/ 0.25 shaft dia
instead of 5/16). I could always turn some sleeves. I have also
found a Fasco D367 where I would need to modify the mounting of the
motor to the blower housing and cut down the shaft length but the
shaft dia is correct at 5/16. I still need to stop at either the
orange or blue big box and see what other vent fan options/prices are
available.

On 2/12/2012 8:16 PM, aribert neumann wrote:
I picked up a used $10 Nutone 300 cfm vent fan that I want to use over
my welding table. THe problem is that the fan motor runs - slowly (it
is rated at 1600 RPM). THe exact replacement motor is the same cost
as buying a new fan asm (about $155+). THis is a 3.3 inch (dia),
single speed, double shafted shaded pole motor. If I open up the
motor can, is there any hope of a minor repair? I have already lubed
the sleeve brgs - no change in RPM. Running it for 30 sec to a
minute, the motor sounds OK and the motor does not heat up, nor does
it smell burnt.

The Nutone motor number is 58840. It looks like Grainger has a
similar motor (hex mounting feature on the ends, but w/ 0.25 shaft dia
instead of 5/16). I could always turn some sleeves. I have also
found a Fasco D367 where I would need to modify the mounting of the
motor to the blower housing and cut down the shaft length but the
shaft dia is correct at 5/16. I still need to stop at either the
orange or blue big box and see what other vent fan options/prices are
available.
Is the motor possible made for 240 volts and you are running at 120 volts?

Paul

aribert neumann wrote:
I picked up a used $10 Nutone 300 cfm vent fan that I want to use over
my welding table. THe problem is that the fan motor runs - slowly (it
is rated at 1600 RPM).

How many RPM does it run? Some are rated at 1300 RPM.

The JA2M291N motor is cheaper at $105 but at 1300 RPM would
convert your unit to 200 CFM operation.

http://www.electricmotorwarehouse.co...ne/nutone2.htm

Might this be sufficient?

--Winston

On Feb 12, 11:16*pm, aribert neumann wrote:

The Nutone motor number is 58840. *It looks like Grainger has a
similar motor (hex mounting feature on the ends, but w/ 0.25 shaft dia
instead of 5/16). *I still need to stop at either the
orange or blue big box and see what other vent fan options/prices are
available.

Try Herbach and Rademan on the web. They have a bunch of blowers at
fairly reasonable prices.

http://www.herbach.com/

Dan

"aribert neumann" wrote in message
...
I picked up a used $10 Nutone 300 cfm vent fan that I want to use over
my welding table. THe problem is that the fan motor runs - slowly ...

Did it vent frying fumes? Cooking oil slowly polymerizes into Linoleum. You
might be able to salvage it by washing out the bearings with solvent or it
may need to be disassembled and scrubbed.

jsw

"Jim Wilkins" fired this volley in
:


"aribert neumann" wrote in message
.
..
I picked up a used $10 Nutone 300 cfm vent fan that I want to use over
my welding table. THe problem is that the fan motor runs - slowly
...

Did it vent frying fumes? Cooking oil slowly polymerizes into
Linoleum. You might be able to salvage it by washing out the bearings
with solvent or it may need to be disassembled and scrubbed.

jsw



I'll second that. (well, Varnish, not Linoleum, which has paper fibers in
it, too G)

There's just not much that can go wrong with those shaded-pole motors.
Most are even "impedance protected", so they won't burn out even if
stalled.

For grins, try "lubricating" the bearings with an excess of a solvent-
based break-free like P-Blaster or Kroil. Try not to get it on the coil,
but let the excess run out of the bearings into a rag. After it soaks a
while, try the fan again, and when it finally runs free, lubricate it
with a light machine oil.

Hint. When you spin the fan by hand, it should turn so freely that it
will coast 15-20 turns on its own after you give it a flick. If it
doesn't, the bearings are gummed up.

I've repaired many the muffin fan with a few drops of xylene in the
bearings, followed by oil.

Lloyd

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com fired this volley
in . 3.70:

For grins, try "lubricating" the bearings with an excess of a solvent-
based break-free like P-Blaster or Kroil. Try not to get it on the
coil, but let the excess run out of the bearings into a rag.

Oh... if the fan is plastic, keep it off that, too. Many of the plastic
fans are made of polystyrene, and P-Blaster will dissolve styrene. (fast!)

LLoyd

On Feb 13, 8:32*am, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com fired this volley
8.3.70:

For grins, try "lubricating" the bearings with an excess of a solvent-
based break-free like P-Blaster or Kroil. *Try not to get it on the
coil, but let the excess run out of the bearings into a rag.

Oh... if the fan is plastic, keep it off that, too. *Many of the plastic
fans are made of polystyrene, and P-Blaster will dissolve styrene. (fast!)

LLoyd

When you need solvent, always reach for the WD-40...

Dave__67 wrote:
When you need solvent, always reach for the WD-40...

When I need solvent, I reach for acetone, MEK, xylol, lac thinner,
methylene chloride, naptha, paint thinner, ethanol, methanol, or a
couple of others not on the tip of my tongue. Certainly never reach for
WD-40 when I need a SOLVENT. Nor when I need a penetrating oil. Only
when I need a water-displacer (hardly ever).

YMMV, but if it does, I would recommend reconsidering.

Bob

Thanks All.

The motor is labeled 120v, 1600 rpm. I also thought the sleeve
bearings were dry / gummed up and I tried to lube them w/ some Tri-
Flow and also some air tool oil (its what I had on hand in my basement
where I dismantled the motor from the squirrel cage housing). When I
spin the shaft by hand, there is no obvious stiction but the effort
seemed to high and it stops rotating within 1/3 to 1/2 turn after I
release it. I did not think of using a solvent to try to wash the
bearing interface out. Do you all think that merely dripping solvent
into the oil lube access will eventually dissolve the varnish? Or
should I remove one of the motor end plates - this motor does not use
tie bolts - local slots in the motor can are staked to the end-plates
- just a bit more work to dismantle and reassemble.

On Feb 14, 5:22*am, aribert neumann wrote:
Thanks All.

The motor is labeled 120v, 1600 rpm. * I also thought the sleeve
bearings were dry / gummed up and I tried to lube them w/ some Tri-
Flow and also some air tool oil (its what I had on hand in my basement
where I dismantled the motor from the squirrel cage housing). *When I
spin the shaft by hand, there is no obvious stiction but the effort
seemed to high and it stops rotating within 1/3 to 1/2 turn after I
release it. *I did not think of using a solvent to try to wash the
bearing interface out. Do you all think that merely dripping *solvent
into the oil lube access will eventually dissolve the varnish? *Or
should I remove one of the motor end plates - this motor does not use
tie bolts - local slots in the motor can are staked to the end-plates
- just a bit more work to dismantle and reassemble.

Try a bit of Easy-Off to dissolve the gunk, and like the others have
said, avoid the wires.

On Feb 14, 6:22*am, aribert neumann wrote:
...Do you all think that merely dripping *solvent
into the oil lube access will eventually dissolve the varnish?...

That depends on what it is, I can't tell from here. Try all the non-
destructive methods first, including running it for a while with light
oil in the bearings to break up the softened crud. I've salvaged some
slow or stuck motors with just solvent and oil, others needed to be
disassembled and even drilled to add oiling holes,like the heater fan
on my truck.

This and Norvey 'Turbine Oil' have worked well enough for me:
http://www.3inone.com/products/motor-oil/

Neither lasts forever.

jsw

What comes to mind to me, is to flush out the motor with brake cleaner. I've
also used ether starting spray. Usual flammable cautions apply. Relube the
bearings with zoom spout turbine oil (ND-20 or ND-30 or two cycle mix oil
are acceptable). I've been known to also put a bit of graphite into the oil.
See if that helps.

A friend of mine has Nutone bathroom vent fan, that has taken a couple
dissembly and relube to get it right.

Please let us know how things work out.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"aribert neumann" wrote in message
...

Thanks All.

The motor is labeled 120v, 1600 rpm. I also thought the sleeve
bearings were dry / gummed up and I tried to lube them w/ some Tri-
Flow and also some air tool oil (its what I had on hand in my basement
where I dismantled the motor from the squirrel cage housing). When I
spin the shaft by hand, there is no obvious stiction but the effort
seemed to high and it stops rotating within 1/3 to 1/2 turn after I
release it. I did not think of using a solvent to try to wash the
bearing interface out. Do you all think that merely dripping solvent
into the oil lube access will eventually dissolve the varnish? Or
should I remove one of the motor end plates - this motor does not use
tie bolts - local slots in the motor can are staked to the end-plates
- just a bit more work to dismantle and reassemble.

On Feb 13, 6:29*pm, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
Dave__67 wrote:
When you need solvent, always reach for the WD-40...

When I need solvent, I reach for acetone, MEK, xylol, lac thinner,
methylene chloride, naptha, paint thinner, ethanol, methanol, or a
couple of others not on the tip of my tongue. *Certainly never reach for
WD-40 when I need a SOLVENT. *Nor when I need a penetrating oil. *Only
when I need a water-displacer (hardly ever).

YMMV, but if it does, I would recommend reconsidering.

Bob

Just trolling for the true-believers, but it does make a nicely
_plastic-safe_ solvent for many types of goop and cruft.


Dave

wrote:
Just trolling for the true-believers, but it [WD-40] does make a nicely
_plastic-safe_ solvent for many types of goop and cruft.

OK, I'll bite: WD-40 is mostly a petro distillate in the paint thinner
class. So paint thinner is just as good as WD-40 without contaminating
additives. Naptha is a little more volatile, less viscous, about as
plastic-safe, and more effective as a solvent. Naptha is my go-to
solvent for getting adhesive labels off plastic.

Bob

On 2/14/2012 12:33 PM, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
....

... Naptha is a little more volatile, less viscous, about as
plastic-safe, and more effective as a solvent....

That, of course, depends markedly on what the intended solute is...

--

"Bob Engelhardt" wrote in message
...
wrote:
Just trolling for the true-believers, but it [WD-40] does make a nicely
_plastic-safe_ solvent for many types of goop and cruft.

OK, I'll bite: WD-40 is mostly a petro distillate in the paint thinner
class. So paint thinner is just as good as WD-40 without contaminating
additives. Naptha is a little more volatile, less viscous, about as
plastic-safe, and more effective as a solvent. Naptha is my go-to solvent
for getting adhesive labels off plastic.

Bob

WD-40's only good feature is the convenient spray can.

jsw

Jim Wilkins wrote:

"Bob Engelhardt" ? wrote in message
...
? wrote:
?? Just trolling for the true-believers, but it [WD-40] does make a nicely
?? _plastic-safe_ solvent for many types of goop and cruft.
?
? OK, I'll bite: WD-40 is mostly a petro distillate in the paint thinner
? class. So paint thinner is just as good as WD-40 without contaminating
? additives. Naptha is a little more volatile, less viscous, about as
? plastic-safe, and more effective as a solvent. Naptha is my go-to solvent
? for getting adhesive labels off plastic.
?
? Bob

WD-40's only good feature is the convenient spray can.


Even the cap is too small to be useful. OTOH, it's a good decoy to
keep people away from the real penetrating oil.


--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.

On Feb 14, 2:36*pm, "Jim Wilkins" wrote:
"Bob Engelhardt" wrote in message

...

wrote:
Just trolling for the true-believers, but it [WD-40] does make a nicely
_plastic-safe_ solvent for many types of goop and cruft.

OK, I'll bite: WD-40 is mostly a petro distillate in the paint thinner
class. *So paint thinner is just as good as WD-40 without contaminating
additives. *Naptha is a little more volatile, less viscous, about as
plastic-safe, and more effective as a solvent. *Naptha is my go-to solvent
for getting adhesive labels off plastic.

Bob

WD-40's only good feature is the convenient spray can.

jsw

I like that one!

Dave

Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob wrote in message
...
wrote:
Just trolling for the true-believers, but it [WD-40] does make a nicely
_plastic-safe_ solvent for many types of goop and cruft.

OK, I'll bite: WD-40 is mostly a petro distillate in the paint thinner
class. So paint thinner is just as good as WD-40 without contaminating
additives. Naptha is a little more volatile, less viscous, about as
plastic-safe, and more effective as a solvent. Naptha is my go-to solvent
for getting adhesive labels off plastic.

Naphtha! Yay! It just removes gunk
that is untouchable otherwise, whilst being
very gentle on plastics.

I can still buy the stuff as 'camping fuel' for
the time being (at 3x the price I used to pay).

(Still, thanks Ed for the tip.)

Stiff regulation is headed your way, fellas.


WD-40's only good feature is the convenient spray can.

Plus the waxy brown gunk it leaves behind
that does nothing to limit corrosion.

No, wait...

--Winston

"aribert neumann" wrote in message
...

Thanks All.

The motor is labeled 120v, 1600 rpm. I also thought the sleeve
bearings were dry / gummed up and I tried to lube them w/ some Tri-
Flow and also some air tool oil (its what I had on hand in my basement
where I dismantled the motor from the squirrel cage housing). When I
spin the shaft by hand, there is no obvious stiction but the effort
seemed to high and it stops rotating within 1/3 to 1/2 turn after I
release it. I did not think of using a solvent to try to wash the
bearing interface out. Do you all think that merely dripping solvent
into the oil lube access will eventually dissolve the varnish? Or
should I remove one of the motor end plates - this motor does not use
tie bolts - local slots in the motor can are staked to the end-plates
- just a bit more work to dismantle and reassemble.

Just bite the bullet and disassemble it. The bushings have felt
surrounding them which hold oil. If you don't disassemble you
can't flood this felt with oil and your half assed repair job won't
last very long. BTDT. Take the time and do it right. My
bathroom fans now last 3+ years between oilings.
Mark everything prior to disassembly so you can get it back
together correctly or it just may run backwards. BTDT too.
Art

dpb wrote:
On 2/14/2012 12:33 PM, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
...

... Naptha is a little more volatile, less viscous, about as
plastic-safe, and more effective as a solvent....

That, of course, depends markedly on what the intended solute is...

Well, I was comparing it to paint thinner. I can't say for sure, but my
guess is that anything that is dissolved by paint thinner is better
dissolved by naptha. I'd be interested to hear otherwise.

Bob

fired this volley in news:b6128966-479b-4823-b3c5-
:

Just trolling for the true-believers, but it does make a nicely
_plastic-safe_ solvent for many types of goop and cruft.

Yeah, well, that would be _the_problem_ when trying to dissolve a plastic
substance (urethane/vegetable oil varnish).

It takes a pretty vigorous solvent to break up that stuff. If you have the
balls, ethylene chloride or methylene chloride (varnish stripper) is the
ticket. Other solvents work slowly at best; WD-40 not at all.

LLoyd

Bob Engelhardt fired this volley in
:


OK, I'll bite: WD-40 is mostly a petro distillate in the paint thinner
class. So paint thinner is just as good as WD-40 without contaminating
additives.

'cept "mineral spirits" won't dissolve urethanes and (similar molecule)
vegetable varnishes. It takes more. Ethylene chloride comes to mind as
being a _very_ vigorous varnish solvent. G

LLoyd

"Jim Wilkins" fired this volley in news:jhed21$t2r
:

WD-40's only good feature is the convenient spray can.


Actually, it has a very good application. FWIW, it's not good for much
else:

I use an oil-less water-based coolant on my mill and lathe specific to
aluminum. It is VERY corrosive to the iron bed and ways of my tools.

To whit: WD-40 conclusively blocks the corrosion of this stuff. It is a
terrible lubricant/penetrant, but it seems to sneak under the missed
droplets of coolant, and prevent them from almost instantaneously
corroding my machines.

LLoyd

Used to make a nice flame, if sprayed over a lighter. Lots of fun at
satanist conventions, and support meetings for burn victims. Uh, not a good
idea, warped humor only. Forget I wrote that. Oh, look! A squirrel!

I've used WD to blast the salt and sand out of a door hinge, couple weeks
ago. Nice job, it did.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...

WD-40's only good feature is the convenient spray can.

jsw

wrote in message
...
On Feb 14, 2:36 pm, "Jim Wilkins" wrote:
...
WD-40's only good feature is the convenient spray can.
jsw

I like that one!
Dave

You already have the rusty/oily thing you want to spray in one hand, WD-40
doesn't make you put it down to unscrew a cap.

Ronsonol Lighter Fluid is also naptha in a convenient one-hand dispenser and
it doesn't leave a useless greasy film. The fine tip wastes so little that
I'm still using a 4-1/2 oz metal can of it from the 1960's, priced at 35
cents.

jsw

Provides short term relief and lube abilities, for when you want a device to
work better for a while, and then they can call you back to do it again.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

wrote in message
...

OK, I'll bite: WD-40 is mostly a petro distillate in the paint thinner
class. So paint thinner is just as good as WD-40 without contaminating
additives. Naptha is a little more volatile, less viscous, about as
plastic-safe, and more effective as a solvent. Naptha is my go-to
solvent
for getting adhesive labels off plastic.

Bob

WD-40's only good feature is the convenient spray can.

jsw

I like that one!

Dave

"Bob Engelhardt" wrote in message
...
dpb wrote:
On 2/14/2012 12:33 PM, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
...

... Naptha is a little more volatile, less viscous, about as
plastic-safe, and more effective as a solvent....

That, of course, depends markedly on what the intended solute is...

Well, I was comparing it to paint thinner. I can't say for sure, but my
guess is that anything that is dissolved by paint thinner is better
dissolved by naptha. I'd be interested to hear otherwise.

Bob

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naphtha

As you can see the answers to chemistry questions aren't simple, even for
this.

Naptha is pretty much a more carefully refined (less smelly) version of
gasoline. Since it is separated from crude oil by distillation it contains
whatever mix of straight-chain, branched and ring hydrocarbons that was in
the crude to start with. It doesn't have oxygen-containing compounds so its
solvent properties are different from alcohols, acetone, MEK or lacquer
thinner which do.

Naptha will probably dissolve the same things as kerosine or Diesel fuel.
All are chemically very similar, differing mainly in carbon chain length and
boiling point.

HTH
jsw

"Artemus" wrote in message
...
...
Just bite the bullet and disassemble it. The bushings have felt
surrounding them which hold oil. If you don't disassemble you
can't flood this felt with oil and your half assed repair job won't
last very long. ...
Art

The holes I mentioned drilling in my truck's heater fan give access to this
felt to add more oil with a sewing machine needle oiler.

jsw

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote in message
...
To whit: WD-40 conclusively blocks the corrosion of this stuff. It is a
terrible lubricant/penetrant, but it seems to sneak under the missed
droplets of coolant, and prevent them from almost instantaneously
corroding my machines.

LLoyd

Water Displacing is what the WD means. IIRC it was developed to displace
overnight condensation in unplugged missile electrical connectors. It works
on wet distributors and spark plug wires, but let the solvent evaporate
first.

I sprayed it on a dirt bike chain and found that it stopped rust for about a
day at most. LPS3 lasted two weeks.

jsw

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
.. .
Used to make a nice flame, if sprayed over a lighter.
Christopher A. Young

Try white lacquer.

Stormin Mormon wrote:

Provides short term relief and lube abilities, for when you want a device to
work better for a while, and then they can call you back to do it again.



That's great, if you're a con man.


--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.

I used lacquer thinner as my solvent. At first I tried dripping a few
drops down the motor shaft, spinning the shaft by hand, repeat for
about a dozen times, flip over and do the other side. Still felt like
the armature was spinning in STP or honey. I started dripping the
lacquer thinner down the oiling holes and after a while I could spin
by hand, release and get **a full rotation** before the armature
stopped spinning. Then I plugged it in and while running started
spraying in 3-in1 aerosol (originally posted it as Tri-Flow). Put an
optical tach on it and read 1700+ rpm (motor label says 1600 rpm). I
let it run w/o either of the squirrel cages attached while adding a
drop or two of air tool oil every few minutes until the motor can got
too hot to hold for more than seconds at a time. SHut it off, added
more oil during cool down and then ran it some more - all the while
adding a drop of oil every now and then. I have not seen any excess
oil dripping out - I'll leave it on the bench for a few days and maybe
add a few more drops before reassembling the motor into the housing.

Again - thanks for the replys. I am so looking forward to being
able to draw welding fumes out near the source rather than using the
furnace blower that I have set up to draw from a hole in the ceiling
(18 feet away from the welding table) and to vent out of the garage
gable. Using the big furnace blower can be a serious waste of heat in
the winter time.

aribert neumann wrote:

SHut it off, added
more oil during cool down and then ran it some more - all the while
adding a drop of oil every now and then. I have not seen any excess
oil dripping out - I'll leave it on the bench for a few days and maybe
add a few more drops before reassembling the motor into the housing.
Most of these motors with sintered bronze bearings have a felt
oil reservoir around the bearing. They can actually take a LOT
of oil, but it takes a while to soak in. I'd add a lot more
than a few drops, maybe a couple CCs per bearing. You may be
able to see enough of the felt to tell when it is getting
saturated.

Jon

On Tue, 14 Feb 2012 19:03:54 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:


"Artemus" wrote in message
...
...
Just bite the bullet and disassemble it. The bushings have felt
surrounding them which hold oil. If you don't disassemble you
can't flood this felt with oil and your half assed repair job won't
last very long. ...
Art

The holes I mentioned drilling in my truck's heater fan give access to this
felt to add more oil with a sewing machine needle oiler.

And a piece of duct tape covers the hole until it's needed the next
time.

--
Fear not those who argue but those who dodge.
-- Marie Ebner von Eschenbach

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 14 Feb 2012 19:03:54 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"

The holes I mentioned drilling in my truck's heater fan give access to
this
felt to add more oil with a sewing machine needle oiler.

And a piece of duct tape covers the hole until it's needed the next
time.

Duct tape didn't survive the engine compartment heat. Aluminum autobody
repair tape has been OK so far.

jsw

On Wed, 15 Feb 2012 11:22:16 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 14 Feb 2012 19:03:54 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"

The holes I mentioned drilling in my truck's heater fan give access to
this
felt to add more oil with a sewing machine needle oiler.

And a piece of duct tape covers the hole until it's needed the next
time.

Duct tape didn't survive the engine compartment heat. Aluminum autobody
repair tape has been OK so far.

Oh, I thought it was an underdash thang. Aluminum duct tape works
under the hood, too. That stuff'll take a finger off if you're not
careful with it.

--
Fear not those who argue but those who dodge.
-- Marie Ebner von Eschenbach

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 15 Feb 2012 11:22:16 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

Duct tape didn't survive the engine compartment heat. Aluminum autobody
repair tape has been OK so far.

Oh, I thought it was an underdash thang. Aluminum duct tape works
under the hood, too. That stuff'll take a finger off if you're not
careful with it.

I used aluminum duct tape from HD to waterproof the edges of the insulation
on my solar water heater. It didn't really hold up too well.

jsw

That's encouraging. And, thank you for sharing what worked.



Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"aribert neumann" wrote in message
...
I used lacquer thinner as my solvent. At first I tried dripping a few
drops down the motor shaft, spinning the shaft by hand, repeat for
about a dozen times, flip over and do the other side. Still felt like
the armature was spinning in STP or honey. I started dripping the
lacquer thinner down the oiling holes and after a while I could spin
by hand, release and get **a full rotation** before the armature
stopped spinning. Then I plugged it in and while running started
spraying in 3-in1 aerosol (originally posted it as Tri-Flow). Put an
optical tach on it and read 1700+ rpm (motor label says 1600 rpm). I
let it run w/o either of the squirrel cages attached while adding a
drop or two of air tool oil every few minutes until the motor can got
too hot to hold for more than seconds at a time. SHut it off, added
more oil during cool down and then ran it some more - all the while
adding a drop of oil every now and then. I have not seen any excess
oil dripping out - I'll leave it on the bench for a few days and maybe
add a few more drops before reassembling the motor into the housing.

Again - thanks for the replys. I am so looking forward to being
able to draw welding fumes out near the source rather than using the
furnace blower that I have set up to draw from a hole in the ceiling
(18 feet away from the welding table) and to vent out of the garage
gable. Using the big furnace blower can be a serious waste of heat in
the winter time.