Going to install a transfer switch so I can run a generator to power oil furnace, refrigerator, and a couple of other devices (maybe TV/ Microwave).

Will a 5000 watt peak generator do the trick? Any advice on brands (don't want to break the bank)?

Transfer switch for this seems a straight forward install (house is only 6 years old). Just kill the power and wire up a few breakers. I assume someone fairly handy can do this yes? (did plenty of home wiring in our old house) Was thinking 6 circuit Reliance transfer switch (20 or 30 amp) would do the trick.

Thanks for any advice!

On 11/2/2012 4:51 PM, noname wrote:
Going to install a transfer switch so I can run a generator to power oil furnace, refrigerator, and a couple of other devices (maybe TV/ Microwave).

Will a 5000 watt peak generator do the trick? Any advice on brands (don't want to break the bank)?

Transfer switch for this seems a straight forward install (house is only 6 years old). Just kill the power and wire up a few breakers. I assume someone fairly handy can do this yes? (did plenty of home wiring in our old house) Was thinking 6 circuit Reliance transfer switch (20 or 30 amp) would do the trick.

Thanks for any advice!
Ok, here is some advice!
Do you own you house free and clear? If so, go ahead and do it yourself.
If there is a problem and your insurance won't pay, you are out the money.

If you have a mortgage and you have a serious problem with the switch or
your wiring and the insurance won't pay, your mortgage holder will
probably require you to pay off the balance immediately and make them
not liable for any losses.

Get it installed professionally. Not that expensive.

Paul

On Friday, November 2, 2012 7:51:04 PM UTC-4, noname wrote:
Going to install a transfer switch so I can run a generator to power oil furnace, refrigerator, and a couple of other devices (maybe TV/ Microwave).



Will a 5000 watt peak generator do the trick? Any advice on brands (don't want to break the bank)?



Transfer switch for this seems a straight forward install (house is only 6 years old). Just kill the power and wire up a few breakers. I assume someone fairly handy can do this yes? (did plenty of home wiring in our old house) Was thinking 6 circuit Reliance transfer switch (20 or 30 amp) would do the trick.



Thanks for any advice!

We have a 5,500 watt generator. I ran lines from the generator to the well pump for water, the oil-fired water heater, the oil furnace, the refrigerator and the freezer. It keeps them all going but I have to unplug each from the house current and plug them into the generator lines when the power goes out. Plus we have a spare extention cord that can be plugged into one of the microwave, coffe maker, reading lamp, etc., as needed.

I wired this all myself but wouldn't install a transfer switch myself. I plan to get a larger generator with a transfer switch next year, having a professional electrician do the hookup for insurance and safety considerations..

Paul

How did you hook up the furnace without a transfer switch?

On Friday, November 2, 2012 8:32:32 PM UTC-4, Pavel314 wrote:
On Friday, November 2, 2012 7:51:04 PM UTC-4, noname wrote:

Going to install a transfer switch so I can run a generator to power oil furnace, refrigerator, and a couple of other devices (maybe TV/ Microwave).







Will a 5000 watt peak generator do the trick? Any advice on brands (don't want to break the bank)?







Transfer switch for this seems a straight forward install (house is only 6 years old). Just kill the power and wire up a few breakers. I assume someone fairly handy can do this yes? (did plenty of home wiring in our old house) Was thinking 6 circuit Reliance transfer switch (20 or 30 amp) would do the trick.







Thanks for any advice!



We have a 5,500 watt generator. I ran lines from the generator to the well pump for water, the oil-fired water heater, the oil furnace, the refrigerator and the freezer. It keeps them all going but I have to unplug each from the house current and plug them into the generator lines when the power goes out. Plus we have a spare extention cord that can be plugged into one of the microwave, coffe maker, reading lamp, etc., as needed.



I wired this all myself but wouldn't install a transfer switch myself. I plan to get a larger generator with a transfer switch next year, having a professional electrician do the hookup for insurance and safety considerations.



Paul

Pavel314 wrote:
On Friday, November 2, 2012 7:51:04 PM UTC-4, noname wrote:
Going to install a transfer switch so I can run a generator to power oil
furnace, refrigerator, and a couple of other devices (maybe TV/ Microwave).



Will a 5000 watt peak generator do the trick? Any advice on brands
(don't want to break the bank)?



Transfer switch for this seems a straight forward install (house is only
6 years old). Just kill the power and wire up a few breakers. I assume
someone fairly handy can do this yes? (did plenty of home wiring in our
old house) Was thinking 6 circuit Reliance transfer switch (20 or 30
amp) would do the trick.



Thanks for any advice!

We have a 5,500 watt generator. I ran lines from the generator to the
well pump for water, the oil-fired water heater, the oil furnace, the
refrigerator and the freezer. It keeps them all going but I have to
unplug each from the house current and plug them into the generator lines
when the power goes out. Plus we have a spare extention cord that can be
plugged into one of the microwave, coffe maker, reading lamp, etc., as needed.

I wired this all myself but wouldn't install a transfer switch myself. I
plan to get a larger generator with a transfer switch next year, having a
professional electrician do the hookup for insurance and safety considerations.

Paul

I think I could wire a plug for my furnace. As it is, from the breaker,
goes to box on furnace, then hardwired to furnace circuit.

Really, thought about turning breaker off, then run reverse plug from
generator to box....


Greg

On Fri, 02 Nov 2012 17:24:57 -0700, Paul Drahn
wrote:



Ok, here is some advice!
Do you own you house free and clear? If so, go ahead and do it yourself.
If there is a problem and your insurance won't pay, you are out the money.

If you have a mortgage and you have a serious problem with the switch or
your wiring and the insurance won't pay, your mortgage holder will
probably require you to pay off the balance immediately and make them
not liable for any losses.

Get it installed professionally. Not that expensive.

Paul

I don't know the skill level of the OP so I'm not going to say if he
should do it or not. The rest is BS though. The insurance will pay
for your incompetence.

On Fri, 2 Nov 2012 16:51:04 -0700 (PDT), noname
wrote:

Going to install a transfer switch so I can run a generator to power oil furnace, refrigerator, and a couple of other devices (maybe TV/ Microwave).

Will a 5000 watt peak generator do the trick? Any advice on brands (don't want to break the bank)?

Transfer switch for this seems a straight forward install (house is only 6 years old). Just kill the power and wire up a few breakers. I assume someone fairly handy can do this yes? (did plenty of home wiring in our old house) Was thinking 6 circuit Reliance transfer switch (20 or 30 amp) would do the trick.

I don't know nuthin' but how can a 30 amp switch be enough for a 5000
watt generator, peak or not.?


Thanks for any advice!

micky wrote:
On Fri, 2 Nov 2012 16:51:04 -0700 (PDT), noname
wrote:

Going to install a transfer switch so I can run a generator to power oil
furnace, refrigerator, and a couple of other devices (maybe TV/ Microwave).

Will a 5000 watt peak generator do the trick? Any advice on brands
(don't want to break the bank)?

Transfer switch for this seems a straight forward install (house is only
6 years old). Just kill the power and wire up a few breakers. I assume
someone fairly handy can do this yes? (did plenty of home wiring in our
old house) Was thinking 6 circuit Reliance transfer switch (20 or 30
amp) would do the trick.

I don't know nuthin' but how can a 30 amp switch be enough for a 5000
watt generator, peak or not.?


Thanks for any advice!

My 6000 watt peak aldi generator has two 20 amp 120 volt outputs, or the
240 volt output plug. Ill have to see the generator breakers rating though.
30 amp would be more than enough.

Greg

"micky" wrote in message
...
Transfer switch for this seems a straight forward install (house is only
6 years old). Just kill the power and wire up a few breakers. I assume
someone fairly handy can do this yes? (did plenty of home wiring in our
old house) Was thinking 6 circuit Reliance transfer switch (20 or 30
amp) would do the trick.

I don't know nuthin' but how can a 30 amp switch be enough for a 5000
watt generator, peak or not.?


If you can devide 5000 by 240 you will see how it can.

It comes out to slightly less than 21 amps.

On Fri, 2 Nov 2012 22:56:13 -0400, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:


"micky" wrote in message
.. .
Transfer switch for this seems a straight forward install (house is only
6 years old). Just kill the power and wire up a few breakers. I assume
someone fairly handy can do this yes? (did plenty of home wiring in our
old house) Was thinking 6 circuit Reliance transfer switch (20 or 30
amp) would do the trick.

I don't know nuthin' but how can a 30 amp switch be enough for a 5000
watt generator, peak or not.?


If you can devide 5000 by 240 you will see how it can.

It comes out to slightly less than 21 amps.

Ah, 240.

Paul Drahn wrote:
On 11/2/2012 4:51 PM, noname wrote:
Going to install a transfer switch so I can run a generator to power
oil furnace, refrigerator, and a couple of other devices (maybe TV/
Microwave). Will a 5000 watt peak generator do the trick? Any advice on
brands
(don't want to break the bank)? Transfer switch for this seems a straight
forward install (house is
only 6 years old). Just kill the power and wire up a few breakers. I
assume someone fairly handy can do this yes? (did plenty of home
wiring in our old house) Was thinking 6 circuit Reliance transfer
switch (20 or 30 amp) would do the trick. Thanks for any advice!
Ok, here is some advice!
Do you own you house free and clear? If so, go ahead and do it
yourself. If there is a problem and your insurance won't pay, you are
out the money.
If you have a mortgage and you have a serious problem with the switch
or your wiring and the insurance won't pay, your mortgage holder will
probably require you to pay off the balance immediately and make them
not liable for any losses.

Get it installed professionally. Not that expensive.


It IS that expensive.

noname wrote:
Going to install a transfer switch so I can run a generator to power
oil furnace, refrigerator, and a couple of other devices (maybe TV/
Microwave).

Will a 5000 watt peak generator do the trick? Any advice on brands
(don't want to break the bank)?

Probably


Transfer switch for this seems a straight forward install (house is
only 6 years old). Just kill the power and wire up a few breakers.
I assume someone fairly handy can do this yes? (did plenty of home
wiring in our old house) Was thinking 6 circuit Reliance transfer
switch (20 or 30 amp) would do the trick.

Thanks for any advice!

Why a transfer switch? Two extension cords, one for the furnace and one for
everything else, should be ample. Even if you install it yourself, a
transfer switch will set you back $200-$300. If you have a licensed, union,
professional install it, what with the possible permits and inspections, you
may be north of $1,000.

A couple of 100' extension cords will set you back less than a hundred
bucks.

The transfer switch is a no-fuss option allowing you to run (usually) up to
six circuits with the flip of a single switch. Seems to me that after
uncovering the generator in the garage, hauling it out into the air,
charging it with gas, and otherwise fussing around, uncoiling two extension
cards doesn't add much to the project.

On 11/2/2012 5:51 PM, noname wrote:
How did you hook up the furnace without a transfer switch?

Depends on where you live.
In the US, code appears to clearly state that the furnace
must be permanently attached. But the consensus appears to
be that it's routinely ignored.
When I asked the local electrical inspector, he didn't even
know about it and said he would approve a plug.
YMMV

It sounds wise, to have a pro do the transfer switch. Ideally, you can have
the electrician wire a 15 amp socket on the utility power side of that
switch. Plug in a lamp, and a radio (old type with the knobs, and set it to
full volume) so you know when the utility power comes back on.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Pavel314"
wrote in message
...

We have a 5,500 watt generator. I ran lines from the generator to the well
pump for water, the oil-fired water heater, the oil furnace, the
refrigerator and the freezer. It keeps them all going but I have to unplug
each from the house current and plug them into the generator lines when the
power goes out. Plus we have a spare extention cord that can be plugged into
one of the microwave, coffe maker, reading lamp, etc., as needed.

I wired this all myself but wouldn't install a transfer switch myself. I
plan to get a larger generator with a transfer switch next year, having a
professional electrician do the hookup for insurance and safety
considerations.

Paul

On Fri, 2 Nov 2012 16:51:04 -0700 (PDT), noname
wrote in Re
Installing Manual Transfer Switch/Generator Advice:

Will a 5000 watt peak generator do the trick?

Not likely. I wold go with at least 6500 peak.

Back feeding power into a circuit can be dangerous. Only if you are skilled
and safe with electricity would you do any wiring. I am not suggesting, or
reccomending anyone do any wiring.

In theory, one could unwire the furnace from the house power, and insulate
the house power wires. Connect the furnace wires to a cord and plug
harvested from a three wire appliance that's being thrown out. When the
power comes back, rewire the furnace to the breaker panel, and put it all
back like you found it. The furnace gets powered, and much lower chance of
back feeding, and killing a lineman.

You will need a bit of electrical knowledge, wire nuts, electric tape, safe
working habits. Note, that I didn't provide step by step coaching. If you
don't know the details, call an electrician or a friend who does. Remember,
the utility power can come back on at any second, and ignorant people can be
killed from electricity.

I installed furnaces for six years, and have worked with electricity for 30
years. It still scares me, and I double and triple check safety. Act with
wisdom, and at your own risk.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"gregz" wrote in message
...

I think I could wire a plug for my furnace. As it is, from the breaker,
goes to box on furnace, then hardwired to furnace circuit.

Really, thought about turning breaker off, then run reverse plug from
generator to box....


Greg

On 11/3/2012 6:55 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
It sounds wise, to have a pro do the transfer switch. Ideally, you can have
the electrician wire a 15 amp socket on the utility power side of that
switch. Plug in a lamp, and a radio (old type with the knobs, and set it to
full volume) so you know when the utility power comes back on.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Pavel314"
wrote in message
...

We have a 5,500 watt generator. I ran lines from the generator to the well
pump for water, the oil-fired water heater, the oil furnace, the
refrigerator and the freezer. It keeps them all going but I have to unplug
each from the house current and plug them into the generator lines when the
power goes out. Plus we have a spare extention cord that can be plugged into
one of the microwave, coffe maker, reading lamp, etc., as needed.

I wired this all myself but wouldn't install a transfer switch myself. I
plan to get a larger generator with a transfer switch next year, having a
professional electrician do the hookup for insurance and safety
considerations.

Paul



Transfer box for my generator contains switch where box controls items I
have wired, well, furnace, refrigerator, freezers and some lights and
TV. When power comes back, items that were not on transfer box come
back on, i.e. any thing that had been powered on and went off turns back on.

I had mine done professionally where they had also replaced old, unsafe
breaker box. Cost was not excessive.

There is only one breaker to the furnace. This means killing that breaker I could manually wire up the furnace without fear of feed back, right?

On Saturday, November 3, 2012 7:15:18 AM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Back feeding power into a circuit can be dangerous. Only if you are skilled

and safe with electricity would you do any wiring. I am not suggesting, or

reccomending anyone do any wiring.



In theory, one could unwire the furnace from the house power, and insulate

the house power wires. Connect the furnace wires to a cord and plug

harvested from a three wire appliance that's being thrown out. When the

power comes back, rewire the furnace to the breaker panel, and put it all

back like you found it. The furnace gets powered, and much lower chance of

back feeding, and killing a lineman.



You will need a bit of electrical knowledge, wire nuts, electric tape, safe

working habits. Note, that I didn't provide step by step coaching. If you

don't know the details, call an electrician or a friend who does. Remember,

the utility power can come back on at any second, and ignorant people can be

killed from electricity.



I installed furnaces for six years, and have worked with electricity for 30

years. It still scares me, and I double and triple check safety. Act with

wisdom, and at your own risk.



Christopher A. Young

Learn more about Jesus

www.lds.org

.



"gregz" wrote in message

...



I think I could wire a plug for my furnace. As it is, from the breaker,

goes to box on furnace, then hardwired to furnace circuit.



Really, thought about turning breaker off, then run reverse plug from

generator to box....





Greg

One feature of the transfer switch, it's supposed to be "oops, I forgot"
proof. I think it's a very bad ass/u/me for you to rely on remembering to
flip a breaker. When the power is out, and you're cold, it's too easy to
forget things. This, I know from experience.

Please, please. Make it as "oops, I forgot" proof as possible.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"noname" wrote in message
...
There is only one breaker to the furnace. This means killing that breaker I
could manually wire up the furnace without fear of feed back, right?

On 11/3/2012 9:21 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
There is only one breaker to the furnace. This means killing that breaker I
could manually wire up the furnace without fear of feed back, right?


Here is the proper/safe way to do it:

http://www.electricenergyonline.com/..._news&id=38786

Sobering reminder, that linemen do actually
get killed from home generator wiring.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Harvey Specter" wrote in message
.com...


Here is the proper/safe way to do it:

http://www.electricenergyonline.com/..._news&id=38786

Attribution corrected. I'm the guy who told "noname" not to.

"Harvey Specter" wrote in message
.com...

"noname" wrote in message
...
There is only one breaker to the furnace. This means killing that breaker
I
could manually wire up the furnace without fear of feed back, right?


Here is the proper/safe way to do it:

http://www.electricenergyonline.com/..._news&id=38786

On 11/2/2012 5:51 PM, noname wrote:
Going to install a transfer switch so I can run a generator to power oil furnace, refrigerator, and a couple of other devices (maybe TV/ Microwave).

Will a 5000 watt peak generator do the trick? Any advice on brands (don't want to break the bank)?

Transfer switch for this seems a straight forward install (house is only 6 years old). Just kill the power and wire up a few breakers. I assume someone fairly handy can do this yes? (did plenty of home wiring in our old house) Was thinking 6 circuit Reliance transfer switch (20 or 30 amp) would do the trick.

Thanks for any advice!

Probably the cheapest way to do a transfer switch is an interlock kit:
http://www.interlockkit.com/CATALOG2008.pdf
(originally from John Grabowski)

You put a circuit breaker in the panel adjacent to the service
disconnect and back feed it from the generator. There is a mechanical
interlock mechanism on the panel cover that prevents both the service
disconnect and generator breaker from being on at the same time. You
turn on only what you want to run at a particular time and the generator
can handle.

The code also wants a simple mechanism from the manufacturer that
prevents the backfed generator breaker from unplugging.

On Friday, November 2, 2012 8:51:16 PM UTC-4, noname wrote:
How did you hook up the furnace without a transfer switch?


Originally, the power line from the furnace went to a junction box on a joist above the furnace, where it joined a house current line from the breaker box. I disconnected that junction in the box and connected the house current line from the breaker box to a plug outlet which I mounted in the box. I then put a plug on the line from the furnace and plugged it into the outlet in the junction box.

When the power goes out, I unplug the furnace line from the house current box and plug it into a line coming from the generator. I did the same with the well pump and the water heater.

Paul

There is a certain simplicity, here. I like it. Line from generator. Would
that be extension cord, or a power inlet, and bit of Romex? It might be
possible to put the generator out in the barn. Run some UF to the house, and
put a "powered by generator" socket next the furnace plug.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Pavel314" wrote in message
...

Originally, the power line from the furnace went to a junction box on a
joist above the furnace, where it joined a house current line from the
breaker box. I disconnected that junction in the box and connected the house
current line from the breaker box to a plug outlet which I mounted in the
box. I then put a plug on the line from the furnace and plugged it into the
outlet in the junction box.

When the power goes out, I unplug the furnace line from the house current
box and plug it into a line coming from the generator. I did the same with
the well pump and the water heater.

Paul

I ran Romex from the generator to the furnace, with a plug at the furnace end of the line. Unplug from house current, plug into generator line.

Paul


On Saturday, November 3, 2012 11:19:20 AM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:
There is a certain simplicity, here. I like it. Line from generator. Would

that be extension cord, or a power inlet, and bit of Romex? It might be

possible to put the generator out in the barn. Run some UF to the house, and

put a "powered by generator" socket next the furnace plug.



Christopher A. Young

Learn more about Jesus

www.lds.org

.



"Pavel314" wrote in message

...



Originally, the power line from the furnace went to a junction box on a

joist above the furnace, where it joined a house current line from the

breaker box. I disconnected that junction in the box and connected the house

current line from the breaker box to a plug outlet which I mounted in the

box. I then put a plug on the line from the furnace and plugged it into the

outlet in the junction box.



When the power goes out, I unplug the furnace line from the house current

box and plug it into a line coming from the generator. I did the same with

the well pump and the water heater.



Paul

bud-- wrote:
On 11/2/2012 5:51 PM, noname wrote:
Going to install a transfer switch so I can run a generator to power
oil furnace, refrigerator, and a couple of other devices (maybe TV/
Microwave). Will a 5000 watt peak generator do the trick? Any advice on
brands
(don't want to break the bank)? Transfer switch for this seems a straight
forward install (house is
only 6 years old). Just kill the power and wire up a few breakers. I
assume someone fairly handy can do this yes? (did plenty of home
wiring in our old house) Was thinking 6 circuit Reliance transfer
switch (20 or 30 amp) would do the trick. Thanks for any advice!

Probably the cheapest way to do a transfer switch is an interlock kit:
http://www.interlockkit.com/CATALOG2008.pdf
(originally from John Grabowski)

You put a circuit breaker in the panel adjacent to the service
disconnect and back feed it from the generator. There is a mechanical
interlock mechanism on the panel cover that prevents both the service
disconnect and generator breaker from being on at the same time. You
turn on only what you want to run at a particular time and the
generator can handle.

The code also wants a simple mechanism from the manufacturer that
prevents the backfed generator breaker from unplugging.

Have you seen the prices on these? To fit my Square-D box, the part number
is K-5010. This part is a flat piece of metal, about 6x6 inches, with two
holes for screws. The price is $150.00 (up)!

If it wasn't dishonest - or at least immoral, I'd buy one from Grainger,
copy it on a piece of sheet aluminum, then return the original to Grainger.

Anybody have one I can borrow to make the copy? Or can you provide a tracing
of yours?

As of this moment, I don't have an interlock. I DO have detailed
instructions on the inside of the breaker box.

It seems "GE PowerMark Gold Load Center/Generator Interlock Kit" for $43, plus a "Reliance Controls 20-Amp Power Inlet Box" for $51 plus the wire and generator cable is all that I would need, right?

All the breakers I would turn on are 120 volt 20 amp ones. Is that the correct inlet box I would need for a 5000 watt generator?

Thanks.


On Sunday, November 4, 2012 12:29:03 PM UTC-5, noname wrote:
Current thinking is to install an Interlock kit. Looks like for my GE breaker panel it costs $149. Going to call my electrician to see how much he will charge to install it. Seems more difficult to install than a transfer switch.



On Saturday, November 3, 2012 6:11:04 PM UTC-4, HeyBub wrote:

bud-- wrote:



On 11/2/2012 5:51 PM, noname wrote:



Going to install a transfer switch so I can run a generator to power



oil furnace, refrigerator, and a couple of other devices (maybe TV/



Microwave). Will a 5000 watt peak generator do the trick? Any advice on



brands



(don't want to break the bank)? Transfer switch for this seems a straight



forward install (house is



only 6 years old). Just kill the power and wire up a few breakers. I



assume someone fairly handy can do this yes? (did plenty of home



wiring in our old house) Was thinking 6 circuit Reliance transfer



switch (20 or 30 amp) would do the trick. Thanks for any advice!







Probably the cheapest way to do a transfer switch is an interlock kit:



http://www.interlockkit.com/CATALOG2008.pdf



(originally from John Grabowski)







You put a circuit breaker in the panel adjacent to the service



disconnect and back feed it from the generator. There is a mechanical



interlock mechanism on the panel cover that prevents both the service



disconnect and generator breaker from being on at the same time. You



turn on only what you want to run at a particular time and the



generator can handle.







The code also wants a simple mechanism from the manufacturer that



prevents the backfed generator breaker from unplugging.







Have you seen the prices on these? To fit my Square-D box, the part number



is K-5010. This part is a flat piece of metal, about 6x6 inches, with two



holes for screws. The price is $150.00 (up)!







If it wasn't dishonest - or at least immoral, I'd buy one from Grainger,



copy it on a piece of sheet aluminum, then return the original to Grainger.







Anybody have one I can borrow to make the copy? Or can you provide a tracing



of yours?







As of this moment, I don't have an interlock. I DO have detailed



instructions on the inside of the breaker box.

noname wrote:
Current thinking is to install an Interlock kit. Looks like for my
GE breaker panel it costs $149. Going to call my electrician to see
how much he will charge to install it. Seems more difficult to
install than a transfer switch.


Piddly. You drill two holes in the panel cover to mount the plate. Done.

This thing is a flat piece of metal that slides left-to-right (or up/down)
to prevent both the main breaker and the one going to your generator plug
from both being "ON" at the same time.

Have you seen the number of wires involved in a transfer switch? For six
circuits, you have to re-route and connect about 14 separate wires. And
about half of them will be two inches too short ! You have to mount the
sucker on the wall. All in all, a non-trivial installation.

noname wrote:
It seems "GE PowerMark Gold Load Center/Generator Interlock Kit" for $43,
plus a "Reliance Controls 20-Amp Power Inlet Box" for $51 plus the wire
and generator cable is all that I would need, right?

All the breakers I would turn on are 120 volt 20 amp ones. Is that the
correct inlet box I would need for a 5000 watt generator?

Thanks.



I would like to see an overall diagram.

Of course, I'm interested.

Greg

On 11/3/2012 6:18 AM, HeyBub wrote:
Paul Drahn wrote:
On 11/2/2012 4:51 PM, noname wrote:
Going to install a transfer switch so I can run a generator to power
oil furnace, refrigerator, and a couple of other devices (maybe TV/
Microwave). Will a 5000 watt peak generator do the trick? Any advice on
brands
(don't want to break the bank)? Transfer switch for this seems a straight
forward install (house is
only 6 years old). Just kill the power and wire up a few breakers. I
assume someone fairly handy can do this yes? (did plenty of home
wiring in our old house) Was thinking 6 circuit Reliance transfer
switch (20 or 30 amp) would do the trick. Thanks for any advice!
Ok, here is some advice!
Do you own you house free and clear? If so, go ahead and do it
yourself. If there is a problem and your insurance won't pay, you are
out the money.
If you have a mortgage and you have a serious problem with the switch
or your wiring and the insurance won't pay, your mortgage holder will
probably require you to pay off the balance immediately and make them
not liable for any losses.

Get it installed professionally. Not that expensive.


It IS that expensive.



But not everyone is interested in heybub quality work.

George wrote:
Ok, here is some advice!
Do you own you house free and clear? If so, go ahead and do it
yourself. If there is a problem and your insurance won't pay, you
are out the money.
If you have a mortgage and you have a serious problem with the
switch or your wiring and the insurance won't pay, your mortgage
holder will probably require you to pay off the balance immediately
and make them not liable for any losses.

Get it installed professionally. Not that expensive.


It IS that expensive.



But not everyone is interested in heybub quality work.

Heh! Good rejoinder!

But you can't know the quality of my work. For example, I once turned an
electrical distribution panel into a sub-panel by simply slaving it to the
panel located six inches away. It's lasted, now, for, oh, two weeks or more.

So there.

On Nov 3, 5:23*am, "HeyBub" wrote:
noname wrote:
Going to install a transfer switch so I can run a generator to power
oil furnace, refrigerator, and a couple of other devices (maybe TV/
Microwave).

Will a 5000 watt peak generator do the trick? *Any advice on brands
(don't want to break the bank)?

Probably

Transfer switch for this seems a straight forward install (house is
only 6 years old). *Just kill the power and wire up a few breakers.
I assume someone fairly handy can do this yes? *(did plenty of home
wiring in our old house) *Was thinking *6 circuit Reliance transfer
switch (20 or 30 amp) would do the trick.

Thanks for any advice!

Why a transfer switch? Two extension cords, one for the furnace and one for
everything else, should be ample. Even if you install it yourself, a
transfer switch will set you back $200-$300. If you have a licensed, union,
professional install it, what with the possible permits and inspections, you
may be north of $1,000.

A couple of 100' extension cords will set you back less than a hundred
bucks.

The transfer switch is a no-fuss option allowing you to run (usually) up to
six circuits with the flip of a single switch. Seems to me that after
uncovering the generator in the garage, hauling it out into the air,
charging it with gas, and otherwise fussing around, uncoiling two extension
cards doesn't add much to the project.

Except that you're overlooking the rest of the issues:

1 - You still have to do re-wiring at the furnace. And the result is
usually one
that does not meet code, eg the furnace is now on a cord.
If it does meet code, it's not that much more work and
the same skill set to install an inlet and appropriate code compliant
double pole arrangement back at the panel.

2 - With the panel arrangement, you can then selectively power
whatever you
want in the house. Want to turn on a light in that upstairs closet
to get some clothes? A light in the upstairs bedroom? The gas water
heater? All that is available without running more extension cords.

3 - With the ext cord arrangement, you have to get at the appliance
cord. That means at a min rolling out fridges. And if it's built-in
like some are, you can't roll it out.....

4 - With the panel arangement, you can also power a well pump, if
you have one.

I'm sure there are other issues, but you get the idea....

wrote:

Why a transfer switch? Two extension cords, one for the furnace and
one for everything else, should be ample. Even if you install it
yourself, a transfer switch will set you back $200-$300. If you have
a licensed, union, professional install it, what with the possible
permits and inspections, you may be north of $1,000.

A couple of 100' extension cords will set you back less than a
hundred bucks.


Except that you're overlooking the rest of the issues:

1 - You still have to do re-wiring at the furnace. And the result is
usually one
that does not meet code, eg the furnace is now on a cord.
If it does meet code, it's not that much more work and
the same skill set to install an inlet and appropriate code compliant
double pole arrangement back at the panel.

2 - With the panel arrangement, you can then selectively power
whatever you
want in the house. Want to turn on a light in that upstairs closet
to get some clothes? A light in the upstairs bedroom? The gas water
heater? All that is available without running more extension cords.

3 - With the ext cord arrangement, you have to get at the appliance
cord. That means at a min rolling out fridges. And if it's built-in
like some are, you can't roll it out.....

4 - With the panel arangement, you can also power a well pump, if
you have one.

I'm sure there are other issues, but you get the idea....

I agree on the versatility of a transfer switch setup. The OP said all he
wanted to do was run a furnace, fridge, and a couple of smaller devices.
That's at most four extension cords.

As for the claim that a transfer-switch is a do-all, the most common
transfer switches control six circuits and I'll wager not one of them would
be for the upstairs closet. I suspect many homes have more than six
circuits, so you'll have to prioritize which circuits are involved with the
transfer switch. This, in turn, probably means an extension cord or two
anyway - or at least a flashlight.

Or, in the alternative, a 12-circuit transfer switch ($$$).

On a completely different matter, I'm a bit puzzled over your reference to a
gas water heater.

"HeyBub" wrote:

wrote:

-snip-

1 - You still have to do re-wiring at the furnace. And the result is

-snip-

2 - With the panel arrangement, you can then selectively power
whatever you want in the house.

-snip-

I'm sure there are other issues, but you get the idea....

I agree on the versatility of a transfer switch setup. The OP said all he
wanted to do was run a furnace, fridge, and a couple of smaller devices.
That's at most four extension cords.

to store, trip over, have to route. . . .


As for the claim that a transfer-switch is a do-all, the most common
transfer switches control six circuits and I'll wager not one of them would
be for the upstairs closet. I suspect many homes have more than six
circuits, so you'll have to prioritize which circuits are involved with the
transfer switch. This, in turn, probably means an extension cord or two
anyway - or at least a flashlight.

That's why I've decided against installing the transfer switch I
bought a couple years ago and am going to go with an interlock kit--
Or hopefully, if I can find one for an old Cutler Hammer CH30JJM150
box, an *interlock cover*.

Throw 2 switches, plug things in *outside* and start the generator.
Then pick the circuits I want live.


Or, in the alternative, a 12-circuit transfer switch ($$$).

On a completely different matter, I'm a bit puzzled over your reference to a
gas water heater.

Non-pilot water heaters need power to light.

Jim

On Nov 6, 9:34*am, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
"HeyBub" wrote:
wrote:

-snip-



1 - You still have to do re-wiring at the furnace. *And the result is

-snip-



2 - With the panel arrangement, you can then selectively power
whatever you want in the house.

-snip-



I'm sure there are other issues, but you get the idea....

I agree on the versatility of a transfer switch setup. The OP said all he
wanted to do was run a furnace, fridge, and a couple of smaller devices.
That's at most four extension cords.

to store, trip over, have to route. . . .



As for the claim that a transfer-switch is a do-all, the most common
transfer switches control six circuits and I'll wager not one of them would
be for the upstairs closet. I suspect many homes have more than six
circuits, so you'll have to prioritize which circuits are involved with the
transfer switch. This, in turn, probably means an extension cord or two
anyway - or at least a flashlight.

That's why I've decided against installing the transfer switch I
bought a couple years ago and am going to go with an interlock kit--
Or hopefully, if I can find one for an old Cutler Hammer CH30JJM150
box, an *interlock cover*.

Throw 2 switches, plug things in *outside* and start the generator.
Then pick the circuits I want live.


I think the Interlockit gizmo is the way to go too. From everything I
see they are code compliant. I don't understand why people would
install a seperate sub panel for just the emergency generator circuits
when you can install the Interlockit.

For those unfamiliar, Interlockit makes what is essentially a slide
gizmo that fastens to many of the popular breaker panels. It serves
to prevent the main breaker as well as a double pole breaker in the
first position in the panel from both being on at the same time. So,
you put a double breaker in at the top, connect it to an inlet and
you're good to go. Then you can select via existing breakers the
circuits you want to power.

It's cheap, very easy to install, very little re-wiring. The only re-
wiring
is to free up the top breaker spot.




On a completely different matter, I'm a bit puzzled over your reference to a
gas water heater.

Non-pilot water heaters need power to light.

Jim

Yes, and the new high-efficiency ones also are power vented.

On 11/6/2012 9:24 AM, HeyBub wrote:
wrote:

Why a transfer switch? Two extension cords, one for the furnace and
one for everything else, should be ample. Even if you install it
yourself, a transfer switch will set you back $200-$300. If you have
a licensed, union, professional install it, what with the possible
permits and inspections, you may be north of $1,000.

A couple of 100' extension cords will set you back less than a
hundred bucks.


Except that you're overlooking the rest of the issues:

1 - You still have to do re-wiring at the furnace. And the result is
usually one
that does not meet code, eg the furnace is now on a cord.
If it does meet code, it's not that much more work and
the same skill set to install an inlet and appropriate code compliant
double pole arrangement back at the panel.

2 - With the panel arrangement, you can then selectively power
whatever you
want in the house. Want to turn on a light in that upstairs closet
to get some clothes? A light in the upstairs bedroom? The gas water
heater? All that is available without running more extension cords.

3 - With the ext cord arrangement, you have to get at the appliance
cord. That means at a min rolling out fridges. And if it's built-in
like some are, you can't roll it out.....

4 - With the panel arangement, you can also power a well pump, if
you have one.

I'm sure there are other issues, but you get the idea....

I agree on the versatility of a transfer switch setup. The OP said all he
wanted to do was run a furnace, fridge, and a couple of smaller devices.
That's at most four extension cords.


To store, to find when needed. To attempt to be used say by a child or
an elderly person or even you if sick.


As for the claim that a transfer-switch is a do-all, the most common
transfer switches control six circuits and I'll wager not one of them would
be for the upstairs closet. I suspect many homes have more than six
circuits, so you'll have to prioritize which circuits are involved with the
transfer switch. This, in turn, probably means an extension cord or two
anyway - or at least a flashlight.

Its a lot better to just have something that works. I would much rather
have the heating system, fridge and other basic stuff running and maybe
worry about a flashlight than have to scramble in the dark or when sick
trying to get a heybub system running.

My neighbor paid a whopping $300 to have an automatic transfer switch
wired in.



Or, in the alternative, a 12-circuit transfer switch ($$$).

It often costs a few bucks to get a decent system installed but it
certainly isn't a fortune. I also paid to have water lines run and to
have a permanent heating system.


On a completely different matter, I'm a bit puzzled over your reference to a
gas water heater.

On 11/6/2012 9:50 AM, wrote:
On Nov 6, 9:34 am, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
"HeyBub" wrote:
wrote:

-snip-



1 - You still have to do re-wiring at the furnace. And the result is

-snip-



2 - With the panel arrangement, you can then selectively power
whatever you want in the house.

-snip-



I'm sure there are other issues, but you get the idea....

I agree on the versatility of a transfer switch setup. The OP said all he
wanted to do was run a furnace, fridge, and a couple of smaller devices.
That's at most four extension cords.

to store, trip over, have to route. . . .



As for the claim that a transfer-switch is a do-all, the most common
transfer switches control six circuits and I'll wager not one of them would
be for the upstairs closet. I suspect many homes have more than six
circuits, so you'll have to prioritize which circuits are involved with the
transfer switch. This, in turn, probably means an extension cord or two
anyway - or at least a flashlight.

That's why I've decided against installing the transfer switch I
bought a couple years ago and am going to go with an interlock kit--
Or hopefully, if I can find one for an old Cutler Hammer CH30JJM150
box, an *interlock cover*.

Throw 2 switches, plug things in *outside* and start the generator.
Then pick the circuits I want live.


I think the Interlockit gizmo is the way to go too. From everything I
see they are code compliant. I don't understand why people would
install a seperate sub panel for just the emergency generator circuits
when you can install the Interlockit.


You don't see the goodness of having an *automatic transfer switch*?
Maybe for when you are away from home, or too sick to do stuff, or say
only say an elderly or young person is at home?


For those unfamiliar, Interlockit makes what is essentially a slide
gizmo that fastens to many of the popular breaker panels. It serves
to prevent the main breaker as well as a double pole breaker in the
first position in the panel from both being on at the same time. So,
you put a double breaker in at the top, connect it to an inlet and
you're good to go. Then you can select via existing breakers the
circuits you want to power.

It's cheap, very easy to install, very little re-wiring. The only re-
wiring
is to free up the top breaker spot.




On a completely different matter, I'm a bit puzzled over your reference to a
gas water heater.

Non-pilot water heaters need power to light.

Jim

Yes, and the new high-efficiency ones also are power vented.

On Nov 6, 9:59*am, George wrote:
On 11/6/2012 9:50 AM, wrote:





On Nov 6, 9:34 am, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
"HeyBub" wrote:
wrote:

-snip-

1 - You still have to do re-wiring at the furnace. *And the result is

-snip-

2 - With the panel arrangement, you can then selectively power
whatever you want in the house.

-snip-

I'm sure there are other issues, but you get the idea....

I agree on the versatility of a transfer switch setup. The OP said all he
wanted to do was run a furnace, fridge, and a couple of smaller devices.
That's at most four extension cords.

to store, trip over, have to route. . . .

As for the claim that a transfer-switch is a do-all, the most common
transfer switches control six circuits and I'll wager not one of them would
be for the upstairs closet. I suspect many homes have more than six
circuits, so you'll have to prioritize which circuits are involved with the
transfer switch. This, in turn, probably means an extension cord or two
anyway - or at least a flashlight.

That's why I've decided against installing the transfer switch I
bought a couple years ago and am going to go with an interlock kit--
Or hopefully, if I can find one for an old Cutler Hammer CH30JJM150
box, an *interlock cover*.

Throw 2 switches, plug things in *outside* and start the generator.
Then pick the circuits I want live.

I think the Interlockit gizmo is the way to go too. *From everything I
see they are code compliant. *I don't understand why people would
install a seperate sub panel for just the emergency generator circuits
when you can install the Interlockit.

You don't see the goodness of having an *automatic transfer switch*?
Maybe for when you are away from home, or too sick to do stuff, or say
only say an elderly or young person is at home?


The discussion thread was about installing a MANUAL transfer switch.
And I
was replying to Heybub, who was favoring using extension cords hooked
to
a portable generator. I was just saying that an Interlockit approach,
IMO,
gives you a lot more for just a little more cost.

An automatic transfer switch implies a whole different level of
equipment and
cost, ie you also need a permanent standby generator to go with it.
So, yes
I see the goodness, but that's a whole different discussion and not
worth it
for me. Also with a more complex automatic system, you also have
more failure points, maintenance costs, need a steady fuel source, etc.

" wrote:

On Nov 6, 9:34*am, Jim Elbrecht wrote:

-snip-
That's why I've decided against installing the transfer switch I
bought a couple years ago and am going to go with an interlock kit--
Or hopefully, if I can find one for an old Cutler Hammer CH30JJM150
box, an *interlock cover*.

Throw 2 switches, plug things in *outside* and start the generator.
Then pick the circuits I want live.


I think the Interlockit gizmo is the way to go too. From everything I
see they are code compliant. I don't understand why people would
install a seperate sub panel for just the emergency generator circuits
when you can install the Interlockit.

For those unfamiliar, Interlockit makes what is essentially a slide
gizmo that fastens to many of the popular breaker panels. It serves
to prevent the main breaker as well as a double pole breaker in the
first position in the panel from both being on at the same time. So,
you put a double breaker in at the top, connect it to an inlet and
you're good to go. Then you can select via existing breakers the
circuits you want to power.

It's cheap, very easy to install, very little re-wiring. The only re-
wiring is to free up the top breaker spot.


I've been reading about these since right after I bought my transfer
switch.

From interlock.com they run about $150. there are others in other
places-- but none have the UL sticker, FWIW.
http://www.interlockkit.com/interlockselect2.html

But most manufacturers make a UL listed cover for their boxes. So
far, I've not been able to find one in stock for my 30yr old CH box--
but they list for $240. I'm willing to pay the extra for a shiny new
cover [mine has some surface rust because of a once *very damp*
basement] and the UL sticker.

I've got some searches with the part number stored on ebay so maybe
I'll get lucky before I just go ahead and buy the interlockkit one.

Jim